I have enjoyed this gentleman, and learned some interesting information. But, I was shocked when he said babbit bearings could not be removed. Being 76 years old, and growing up with a father and grandfather who were mechanical geniuses, I learned a few things. I know Chevrolet used babbit up into the 50's. My daddy rebuild a motor for my brother-in-law around 1980. It was a Chevrolet 5 window pick up that had been his grandfather's truck since new. Daddy melted the old babbit, cleaned everything up, and poured new babbit. The engine was completely stock when finishing, complete with new rope seal at rear main.
I appreciate your point, however, I believe he meant to say by machining… He very much thinks in terms of getting things done in his shop, as opposed to sending stuff off … and so I take your point with that correction. Thanks for your comment!
shell bearings can simply be plucked out of a block or bearing cap etc. A babbit bearing is cast in place. It can not be pulled away, only removed by heating to melt the babbit metal out, or machining out. I think that is what was meant.
Babbit is easy to remove with heat. The engine can then be machined out for bearing inserts, or have new babbit poured and line bored to size. Lots of places still doing Model Ts and As…
If the engine is rare, almost anything can be fixed (for a price). As long as the block isn't broken into pieces, cracks can be fixed as long as you can get to them. In the old days they used tapered pins>>drill a hole at the end of the crack, screw in a tapered pin, drill an overlapping hole, install another pin and continue to the other end of the crack, grind and peen the pins. Sometimes you have to add block sealer tot he water jacket if they seep.
In my thumbnail is a 1950 International L 180 with a BD 269. My son and I rebuilt it about ten years ago. I spent about seven hours pinning the cracks in the block with tapered pins. We had the cracks on the head welded. It's been running for over ten years now, with about thirty five thousand miles on it.
I rebuilt a 35 ford v8 many yrs ago for someones restoration rebabiting the mains and welding the crank and machine work scared me to death but the owner never blinked.
Here we go again I got an ED-ucation I didn’t know that you could check an aluminum intake for cracks with the magnaflux because I thought it had to be magnetic and the fact that the earlier flathead V8s were Babbitt bearings was a surprise to me too! Keep’m coming guys !😀🇨🇦
I had a 1950 f100 wound up with a couple gallons of water in.An Old guy told me get water glass. Drain oil pan put new oil . Be ready with quart of water glass and a couple of gallons of water. Start the truck pour water glass in and slowly add first gallon. Run a couple minutes and add more water put cap on radiator. Run it up operating temperature and shutdown. Drain oil immediately drained radiator. Replace new fluids restart and run. I got lucky and drove daily for three years. After six months of working on My. St. Helens ash cleanup, compression got to low.
Hi Ed , I have a 239 and I had a builder put in my cam bearings and now I can not get the fuel pump pushrod to seat. I put a telescopic camera down the pushrod port. The bearing looks straight but It wont seat onto the cam lob. Any ideas to solve this joy. Fred
The Ford side-valve V-8 suffers overheating because the exhaust gases pass through the block from the exhaust valves to the outer face of the engine. Has anyone made a hot-V engine, by switching the inlet and exhaust cam lobes, and putting inlet manifolds onto the outer face of the engine? Results?
I’ll ask you about that I don’t know if there’s a spec that he prefers that isn’t out there? I know if you’re boring the cylinders, and turning the crank, the NOS pistons, rings, bearings are of no use, but it may be something else.
It would be very tough to make a precise list, the transition happened over a period of decades maybe starting from the late 20s to the late 40s… It depended on the manufacturer, the cost of the vehicle, etc. also, it would be possible for a car maker to just use insert bearings for the main bearings and not the rod bearings for example. It seems like for the most part all the engines from the early 50s and newer had moved on from Babbitt bearings… thanks for the question! By the way, I don’t claim to be an expert on this is just what I have gathered myself.
@@BarryTsGarage it's a curious thing. I wasn't previously aware that bearings were poured directly into main saddles. At some point, babbitt insert bearings must have been used. It's interesting watching the transition of manufacturing techniques on these old work horses
Back in '64 I paid $35 for a crack free 49-53 block from Sun motor exchange here in Phoenix ,I had a bit of sticker shock at that -price ! bored it .180 over and offset ground the Merc 4" crank to a 4-1/8 stroke for 296 CID. Put that engine in a fenderless 27 T roadster PU. 1900 lb car it was rather quick ,did not get beat very often street racing ! Ah those were the days !!
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You want these men to live forever so much knowledge lost well ED please God you have another healthy happy 20 + years of fun life.
🏁
All the old guys I knew are sadly gone. I work in the power industry, I learned so much from them and learned as much as I could from them.
Ed knows his stuff. Don’t ever doubt this guy
i am glad you document people like this who have a wealth of knowledge that will be lost over time ...
I have enjoyed this gentleman, and learned some interesting information. But, I was shocked when he said babbit bearings could not be removed. Being 76 years old, and growing up with a father and grandfather who were mechanical geniuses, I learned a few things. I know Chevrolet used babbit up into the 50's. My daddy rebuild a motor for my brother-in-law around 1980. It was a Chevrolet 5 window pick up that had been his grandfather's truck since new. Daddy melted the old babbit, cleaned everything up, and poured new babbit. The engine was completely stock when finishing, complete with new rope seal at rear main.
I appreciate your point, however, I believe he meant to say by machining… He very much thinks in terms of getting things done in his shop, as opposed to sending stuff off … and so I take your point with that correction. Thanks for your comment!
shell bearings can simply be plucked out of a block or bearing cap etc. A babbit bearing is cast in place. It can not be pulled away, only removed by heating to melt the babbit metal out, or machining out. I think that is what was meant.
Babbit is easy to remove with heat. The engine can then be machined out for bearing inserts, or have new babbit poured and line bored to size. Lots of places still doing Model Ts and As…
Yes sir there is a mechanic down the street from me that poured new bait bearing for a old ford. Kind of neat to see.😊
exactly. line bore them out or just file them out, repour or mod for inserts...
Love listening to Ed. That Generation Made this Country. Ed is a Master. Thanks You Ed for Sharing your Knowledge. I Hope You Make More Videos. Thanks
I agree. I’ll pass on to Ed. Thanks for the kind words!
If the engine is rare, almost anything can be fixed (for a price). As long as the block isn't broken into pieces, cracks can be fixed as long as you can get to them. In the old days they used tapered pins>>drill a hole at the end of the crack, screw in a tapered pin, drill an overlapping hole, install another pin and continue to the other end of the crack, grind and peen the pins. Sometimes you have to add block sealer tot he water jacket if they seep.
In my thumbnail is a 1950 International L 180 with a BD 269. My son and I rebuilt it about ten years ago. I spent about seven hours pinning the cracks in the block with tapered pins. We had the cracks on the head welded. It's been running for over ten years now, with about thirty five thousand miles on it.
It sounds like you’re referring to a product called Lock-N-Stitch. If you googled that name, you could easily find available repair kits.
I rebuilt a 35 ford v8 many yrs ago for someones restoration rebabiting the mains and welding the crank and machine work scared me to death but the owner never blinked.
I would imagine this would be tricky work for anyone that hasn’t been doing it or without a lot of guidance…
Here we go again I got an ED-ucation I didn’t know that you could check an aluminum intake for cracks with the magnaflux because I thought it had to be magnetic and the fact that the earlier flathead V8s were
Babbitt bearings was a surprise to me too!
Keep’m coming guys !😀🇨🇦
Thanks so much, Keith! I appreciate you following along and your good comments 👍
Thank you! This was great… however it might be time to find another block for me then 😬
They are precious
I had a 1950 f100 wound up with a couple gallons of water in.An Old guy told me get water glass. Drain oil pan put new oil . Be ready with quart of water glass and a couple of gallons of water. Start the truck pour water glass in and slowly add first gallon. Run a couple minutes and add more water put cap on radiator. Run it up operating temperature and shutdown. Drain oil immediately drained radiator. Replace new fluids restart and run. I got lucky and drove daily for three years. After six months of working on My. St. Helens ash cleanup, compression got to low.
Hi Ed , I have a 239 and I had a builder put in my cam bearings and now I can not get the fuel pump pushrod to seat. I put a telescopic camera down the pushrod port. The bearing looks straight but It wont seat onto the cam lob. Any ideas to solve this joy. Fred
The Ford side-valve V-8 suffers overheating because the exhaust gases pass through the block from the exhaust valves to the outer face of the engine. Has anyone made a hot-V engine, by switching the inlet and exhaust cam lobes, and putting inlet manifolds onto the outer face of the engine? Results?
He's not looking very hard for rod bearings, there's literally tons of NOS out there for a fraction of that price.
I’ll ask you about that I don’t know if there’s a spec that he prefers that isn’t out there? I know if you’re boring the cylinders, and turning the crank, the NOS pistons, rings, bearings are of no use, but it may be something else.
I’m thinking one of the known flathead masters just might know what he’s talking about
I've heard of people pouring bearings for flatheads. Do we know which engines that was done on?
It would be very tough to make a precise list, the transition happened over a period of decades maybe starting from the late 20s to the late 40s… It depended on the manufacturer, the cost of the vehicle, etc. also, it would be possible for a car maker to just use insert bearings for the main bearings and not the rod bearings for example. It seems like for the most part all the engines from the early 50s and newer had moved on from Babbitt bearings… thanks for the question! By the way, I don’t claim to be an expert on this is just what I have gathered myself.
@@BarryTsGarage it's a curious thing. I wasn't previously aware that bearings were poured directly into main saddles. At some point, babbitt insert bearings must have been used. It's interesting watching the transition of manufacturing techniques on these old work horses
I agree! Everything we do today is on the shoulders of problems already solved at an earlier time. The progression is fascinating.
They crack between the valves sometimes .
True
They still make these blocks in France. You can buy them new.
I need to check that out
They stopped production in 1993.
It's a flathead so, scrap.
😂
Heck no....
Back in '64 I paid $35 for a crack free 49-53 block from Sun motor exchange here in Phoenix ,I had a bit of sticker shock at that -price ! bored it .180 over and offset ground the Merc 4" crank to a 4-1/8 stroke for 296 CID. Put that engine in a fenderless 27 T roadster PU. 1900 lb car it was rather quick ,did not get beat very often street racing ! Ah those were the days !!
Nice - you did it right! Fun times.