You are now on the home stretch Shane,,,,nothing stops you somehow,,,,,knees,,,no problem,,,,,heavy equipment,,,no problem,,,,ginger beard,,,no problem,,,, Thanks for the inspiration buddy.....
Ginger is the gypsy coming out in me according to my dad, my only complaint is why did I have to dark hair and a ginger beard? Why couldnt i have just had one or the other either ginger or dark
The slab is about 18" or so where I'm placing most the heavy machines. I'm just wondering if I hire a floor grinder I could get it relatively even and then either paint it or use that concrete hardening solution "densifier" is what I've heard it called.
this stuff is good for over 4,000 PSI or 28 iNewton per square millimeter MAPEI Ultraplan Renovation Screed 3240 Fibre Reinforced Self Levelling Compound. You can put concrete dye in it to diet whatever color you want that way you don't have to paint the floor... Cuz paint peels and chips and I am a firm believer in putting concrete die in concrete. Becosan process is very good for industrial shop floors the chemicals are widely available. And they're in the UK so that'll help you out. I've used this stuff before used primer adhesive promotion and have an assistant help you mix it get the roller with the spikes and the spiked shoe covers make life a lot easier. Vacuum up that dust really good.
Not yet but I think it will save money to run a grinder over the whole floor and take all the high spots off. I know there is about 1.5" variation over the floor from the extreme highs and lows I think if I cut the highs down I can get that down to under 1" over all variation.... fill in that low spot in the corner and I'm probably within 0.5"
@@smithbuilt was watching a video or one of those robotic floor laying robots, had a little laser on top to set it's level and just floated the floor. Anyway back in the real world, knocking the peaks back is a good idea but I don't think you should fill your lows before leveling, that's just going to introduce another potential failure point but I'm no expert.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 true didnt think about the added point for failure... yeah I lend you're robot. I dont need my floor glass like but I'd like it so my pallet truck can glide over it nicely.
You are now on the home stretch Shane,,,,nothing stops you somehow,,,,,knees,,,no problem,,,,,heavy equipment,,,no problem,,,,ginger beard,,,no problem,,,,
Thanks for the inspiration buddy.....
Ginger is the gypsy coming out in me according to my dad, my only complaint is why did I have to dark hair and a ginger beard? Why couldnt i have just had one or the other either ginger or dark
For machinery it really needs a concrete layer with the reinforcing square mesh, just the epoxy sealing paint is expensive.
The slab is about 18" or so where I'm placing most the heavy machines. I'm just wondering if I hire a floor grinder I could get it relatively even and then either paint it or use that concrete hardening solution "densifier" is what I've heard it called.
this stuff is good for over 4,000 PSI or 28 iNewton per square millimeter MAPEI Ultraplan Renovation Screed 3240 Fibre Reinforced Self Levelling Compound. You can put concrete dye in it to diet whatever color you want that way you don't have to paint the floor... Cuz paint peels and chips and I am a firm believer in putting concrete die in concrete. Becosan process is very good for industrial shop floors the chemicals are widely available. And they're in the UK so that'll help you out. I've used this stuff before used primer adhesive promotion and have an assistant help you mix it get the roller with the spikes and the spiked shoe covers make life a lot easier. Vacuum up that dust really good.
Cheers dude I'll have a look into that.
Bruva, prep the bollocks off it with adhesion promoter and any of the cement based compounds will do fine.
Have you measured the deviation yet?
Not yet but I think it will save money to run a grinder over the whole floor and take all the high spots off. I know there is about 1.5" variation over the floor from the extreme highs and lows I think if I cut the highs down I can get that down to under 1" over all variation.... fill in that low spot in the corner and I'm probably within 0.5"
@@smithbuilt was watching a video or one of those robotic floor laying robots, had a little laser on top to set it's level and just floated the floor. Anyway back in the real world, knocking the peaks back is a good idea but I don't think you should fill your lows before leveling, that's just going to introduce another potential failure point but I'm no expert.
@@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006 true didnt think about the added point for failure... yeah I lend you're robot. I dont need my floor glass like but I'd like it so my pallet truck can glide over it nicely.