Thanks for this! It was a big help. I've done PTFE hoses before with an outer nylon braid on top of the SS braid, and they were easy to assembly. No need to trim any of the nylon braid over top of the SS braid. But I recently picked up some conductive PTFE hose that, instead of the nylon braid over the SS braid, has a nylon coating on top of the SS braid, like what you're using. I tried assembling it the same way as the the nylon braided hose, but I couldn't get the nut started for the life of me! The nylon coating is just too thick. So I came across your video, and that confirmed my suspicion that a length of the nylon coating over the SS braid had to be trimmed off. I did that and the assembly was a piece of cake!
Nigel, you are right as I fixed car for a living (Retired Now) but doing a 55 year old truck with truck LS engine. I theory, GM uses straight PTFE pipe but the tank is grounded to the from as same for PCM. But have the extra SS Wire Weave completes ground to ground eliminating all static electricity. It's the same for the electronic VSS that I add a frame ground, pull all tight in vise and chuck in drill for counter-clockwise twist at 9 times per foot. It's a PM generator that creates a syne wave and is grounded on both ends with a star washer and dielectric grease. The PCM changes one signal "HI" and one "Low" and last to ground again. Never can have enough grounds. DK, ASE Master Tech since 78.
You did a really good job explaining everything in this video. I have built regular AN hoses before but not the PTFE type. Now I’m ready to build some fuel lines for my 78 Malibu Thanks!
Unless you run E20, E85 or straight E100. Many have permeability concerns as well if your new toy is parked in an attached garage and using a roll-over valve between the tank and filler neck. Your garage may smell like fumes. I am building one old truck with an LS swap. I am running a fully programmed EVAP purge with Canister but no leakage test or diagnostics. It simply keep fuel pumping at the station, no garage fumes and burning the hydrocarbons I pay for as uncle Joe forces them to climb. And bread. And bacon. And lunch meat, etc. ironic we have 6 packing plants within 70 miles of us and we pay more 38% more it than East or West coast. It always comes up in conversation as Omaha Steaks is 7 miles away and their retail is cheaper the local grocery stores. Everything thing from coleslaw shows up in 5 gallon bucket priced already. Same with meats. ASE Master Tech since 78.
Thanks for the tutorial. I had bought some hose assemblies that were way long. I cut them, then had to get the special PTFE ends. Once I got the ends, I took a look and thought "how does this go together"? Sometimes I have to watch a few different videos to get the full picture, but yours was well done.
Thanks for the video. It seems there aren't that many videos on how to do ptfe fittings. It doesn't seem that it is overly difficult or complicated to assemble. I'm still nervous and I'll probably buy a pressure test kit for an fittings to make sure I installed them properly
Great job explaining the process. A small suggestion for the future videos, lower the background music a bit and the sound of the power tools. My ears are still ringing after the video.
Nice video thanks. Given the part was for power steering a pressure test would be needed? Pre assembled parts normally are to check the assembly is safe.
Pressure test is you install it and check for leaks! First time dealing with PTFE AN hose myself, familiar with the non PTFE stuff, but wasn't sure about the bit with the ferrule, also wanted to see if the nuts were meant to bottom out, looks like his still has a little bit of a gap too, so I guess good and tight oughta do.
Overall, good job. Make sure the hose isn't pushing out of the nut while tightening the hose end. Try and cut your hose end more square. Consider trimming the frayed stainless with scissors. Cut your nails down. Dangerous in the shop and a bit of a distraction when making a video focused on the hands and fine details.
I don't know how you do this so easily. I can do the lines but I end up with the black outer layer or the stainless braids "mushrooming" when I go to put the female part of the hose end on a lot of the time, making it very time consuming to hose ends started. I'm also probably excessively tedious and I cut away from of the excess steel braiding with a dremel because I don't want that to get into the threads and mess them up. Takes me forever to make one line. I also find larger hose easier to deal with / more forgiving. The smaller stuff (6 and 8) is a PITA, but 10 and 12 is easy for me.
Nice Video. During this video what are you doing with your other hand to stabilize the hose? Also, when you say pull the male end onto the female end, are you pulling on the hose to make that happen? Thanks!
You will want to start by cutting the hose straight flush, then slide the female part of the fitting over the entire hose about an inch down like in the thumbnail, then flare out the steel braided part so the male part of the fitting will slide onto the plastic part of the hose. then slide the female side of the fitting up to the male end without it sliding off the plastic and start the treads with your fingers so it crimps. Then you can use wrenches to tighten it up fully. Hope that helps
They make cheap separating tool for neatly pushing the braided stainless back to install the “olive” and makes for less stabbing of the fingers, just sayin.
I have a 2003 ford expedition, the line is broken inside of the fitting and the bolt around it is strip so I have no way to take it out, is there any hose strong enough that I can use over the old fitting to make a new line over the old one for the high pressure line, or do you have any suggest what can be done in such horrible situation? Thank you
I know this is old, but this would have been a lot better without the music or just have the music super low. It feels like I'm listening to the music with you talking in the background.
@@carlschmiedeke151 His fingernails man. Never seen X-Men? I get it now. You meant THEY are another tool. I'm picking up what your laying down. Could you imagine if he had a girlfriend?! "Oh baby ya......AHHHHHHH OUCH!"
That looked way easier than the -20AN ptfe hose ends that I'm working on. Took me an hour to get the olive on the hose, and still haven't gotten the male end into the olive yet....uggh.
I bought these fittings and stainless braided line from Jegs to make a new powersteering hose!, what a joke!, be ok for fuel line maybe!. I ended up getting a hydraulic hose made for a 3rd of the cost of the junk I got from Jegs!, and to top it all off the fittings were made in china!.
That appears to be a steel fitting, no need for the expensive aluminium spanner (translation: aluminium wrench) So many commenters giving bad feedback, apparently they can't read the manual.
Thanks for this! It was a big help. I've done PTFE hoses before with an outer nylon braid on top of the SS braid, and they were easy to assembly. No need to trim any of the nylon braid over top of the SS braid. But I recently picked up some conductive PTFE hose that, instead of the nylon braid over the SS braid, has a nylon coating on top of the SS braid, like what you're using. I tried assembling it the same way as the the nylon braided hose, but I couldn't get the nut started for the life of me! The nylon coating is just too thick. So I came across your video, and that confirmed my suspicion that a length of the nylon coating over the SS braid had to be trimmed off. I did that and the assembly was a piece of cake!
Nigel, you are right as I fixed car for a living (Retired Now) but doing a 55 year old truck with truck LS engine. I theory, GM uses straight PTFE pipe but the tank is grounded to the from as same for PCM. But have the extra SS Wire Weave completes ground to ground eliminating all static electricity. It's the same for the electronic VSS that I add a frame ground, pull all tight in vise and chuck in drill for counter-clockwise twist at 9 times per foot. It's a PM generator that creates a syne wave and is grounded on both ends with a star washer and dielectric grease. The PCM changes one signal "HI" and one "Low" and last to ground again. Never can have enough grounds. DK, ASE Master Tech since 78.
Nice work. I did this a few years ago, but watched your video again for a refresher. Thanks for posting.
You did a terrific job at explaining how to use reusable fittings with PTFE hose.
You did a really good job explaining everything in this video.
I have built regular AN hoses before but not the PTFE type.
Now I’m ready to build some fuel lines for my 78 Malibu
Thanks!
Unless you run E20, E85 or straight E100. Many have permeability concerns as well if your new toy is parked in an attached garage and using a roll-over valve between the tank and filler neck. Your garage may smell like fumes.
I am building one old truck with an LS swap. I am running a fully programmed EVAP purge with Canister but no leakage test or diagnostics. It simply keep fuel pumping at the station, no garage fumes and burning the hydrocarbons I pay for as uncle Joe forces them to climb. And bread. And bacon. And lunch meat, etc. ironic we have 6 packing plants within 70 miles of us and we pay more 38% more it than East or West coast. It always comes up in conversation as Omaha Steaks is 7 miles away and their retail is cheaper the local grocery stores. Everything thing from coleslaw shows up in 5 gallon bucket priced already. Same with meats.
ASE Master Tech since 78.
Thanks for the tutorial. I had bought some hose assemblies that were way long. I cut them, then had to get the special PTFE ends. Once I got the ends, I took a look and thought "how does this go together"? Sometimes I have to watch a few different videos to get the full picture, but yours was well done.
Thanks for the video Shane. BTW, some people just are not happy unless they have something negative to say.
Thanks Rudy
Thanks for the video. It seems there aren't that many videos on how to do ptfe fittings. It doesn't seem that it is overly difficult or complicated to assemble. I'm still nervous and I'll probably buy a pressure test kit for an fittings to make sure I installed them properly
Good job!
Better be cracking a lot of blunts with finger nails like that
Great video man,simple and to the point. Cheers!
Thank you for taking the time to make this helpful video!
Ferrel is brass. Thanks for your instruction vid.
Great explaining and filming! Thanks!! 👍
Great footage very useful info! Thankyou!! 👍👍
Great video!!!
Holy fingernails bro, what are you? a vampire?
Shane, I find that simple isopropyl alcohol works fantastic as a lubricant on rubber, nitrile, and similar materials. Evaporates quickly too.
That alcool attacks rubber and make it brittle and it will crack
@@Hi.Al. ptfe isnt rubber
@@crv3777 I know, he mentioned rubber, read again please
Good job 👍
Thanks for the cool video lots of good info.
Good video. Thanks for sharing that info.
Great job explaining the process. A small suggestion for the future videos, lower the background music a bit and the sound of the power tools. My ears are still ringing after the video.
Very informative. Thank you.
Excellent Video! Thanks man!
Nice video thanks. Given the part was for power steering a pressure test would be needed? Pre assembled parts normally are to check the assembly is safe.
Pressure test is you install it and check for leaks! First time dealing with PTFE AN hose myself, familiar with the non PTFE stuff, but wasn't sure about the bit with the ferrule, also wanted to see if the nuts were meant to bottom out, looks like his still has a little bit of a gap too, so I guess good and tight oughta do.
Great video very helpful 👍
Nice video!..
Overall, good job. Make sure the hose isn't pushing out of the nut while tightening the hose end. Try and cut your hose end more square. Consider trimming the frayed stainless with scissors. Cut your nails down. Dangerous in the shop and a bit of a distraction when making a video focused on the hands and fine details.
Thanks for the info 👍🏻
I don't know how you do this so easily. I can do the lines but I end up with the black outer layer or the stainless braids "mushrooming" when I go to put the female part of the hose end on a lot of the time, making it very time consuming to hose ends started. I'm also probably excessively tedious and I cut away from of the excess steel braiding with a dremel because I don't want that to get into the threads and mess them up. Takes me forever to make one line.
I also find larger hose easier to deal with / more forgiving. The smaller stuff (6 and 8) is a PITA, but 10 and 12 is easy for me.
Thank you so much
Nice Video. During this video what are you doing with your other hand to stabilize the hose? Also, when you say pull the male end onto the female end, are you pulling on the hose to make that happen? Thanks!
You will want to start by cutting the hose straight flush, then slide the female part of the fitting over the entire hose about an inch down like in the thumbnail, then flare out the steel braided part so the male part of the fitting will slide onto the plastic part of the hose. then slide the female side of the fitting up to the male end without it sliding off the plastic and start the treads with your fingers so it crimps. Then you can use wrenches to tighten it up fully. Hope that helps
They make cheap separating tool for neatly pushing the braided stainless back to install the “olive” and makes for less stabbing of the fingers, just sayin.
I have a 2003 ford expedition, the line is broken inside of the fitting and the bolt around it is strip so I have no way to take it out, is there any hose strong enough that I can use over the old fitting to make a new line over the old one for the high pressure line, or do you have any suggest what can be done in such horrible situation? Thank you
Is it possible to over tighten?
I know this is old, but this would have been a lot better without the music or just have the music super low. It feels like I'm listening to the music with you talking in the background.
An easier way to work with these cables is having shorter nails
Bro Sabertooth from X-men would be jealous.
It's another tool
@@carlschmiedeke151 His fingernails man. Never seen X-Men? I get it now. You meant THEY are another tool. I'm picking up what your laying down. Could you imagine if he had a girlfriend?! "Oh baby ya......AHHHHHHH OUCH!"
Do you still have the is?
É melhor e prático.
Hey bro on which website can I get that same hose hose to purchase
That looked way easier than the -20AN ptfe hose ends that I'm working on. Took me an hour to get the olive on the hose, and still haven't gotten the male end into the olive yet....uggh.
Good ole youtube
nice music. It's catchy
were you filiming during an earthquake?
Do not turn the fitting insied the hose when tighten it! Turn only the lock nut (female end)!!!!
So you are saying the Male should have been in the vice?!
th-cam.com/video/2vYpIaf75UI/w-d-xo.html
Nope, with stainless braided PTFE you turn the male side. PTFE is low friction.
RTFM.
Is that nylon or a rubber coating??
Nylon
its hard to focus when he has long nails
The ferrule is brass not copper and there is no need to cut the outer nylon braid.
The manufacturer of my hose specifies it, so I'm doing it...
I bought these fittings and stainless braided line from Jegs to make a new powersteering hose!, what a joke!, be ok for fuel line maybe!. I ended up getting a hydraulic hose made for a 3rd of the cost of the junk I got from Jegs!, and to top it all off the fittings were made in china!.
That appears to be a steel fitting, no need for the expensive aluminium spanner (translation: aluminium wrench)
So many commenters giving bad feedback, apparently they can't read the manual.
who the hell uses water as lube?
Disliked simply for the stupid music you insist on playing throughout the video. Not needed and spoils an otherwise good instructional video