I have never used AN hoses before, I have always used rubber hose. However, I am installing a custom oil cooler (oil to coolant heat exchanger) in my Honda Civic very shortly and that will be my first time. I am going to be making my own 10AN oil lines. I am a bit worried that I am going to mess up since I never made AN lines before, but everyone has to start somewhere and your video was very helpful. Wish me luck LOL!
Best of luck. I would say the biggest rookie mistake is letting the stainless weaving fray when cutting the hose. A lot of people like to wrap the spot they are going to cut with electrical tape or masking tape tightly. That helps prevent fraying. I used to do this but now that I have the hose cutters that I use I don't have any issue with fraying anymore.
@@HotRodHippie That's a great tip, thank you! What is your preference on the material that the lines are made of? I know Teflon is good because it resists extreme heat and chemicals very well and is good for high pressure applications, but I have also heard that it isn't as flexible as standard rubber AN lines? Thanks
@@averyalexander2303 Teflon lined is good for pressure applications but that is the only time I use it. So like Brake lines, Clutch Lines, Power Steering, and AC hoses. It's far less flexible than regular braided so it has to make large sweeping turns, and the fittings don't swivel. So you have to orient your fittings just right when installing them or things won't line up properly. I only use it when I have to at this point. For oil lines you will be fine with standard AN hose. I personally have been using Russell Pro Classic hose lately. It has a Nylon black weave on the outside. It isn't as strong as regular stainless braided but it's good enough for my applications and has less of a race car look. For the driver/ hot rod cars I'm building that look fits better.
I used AN AEROQUIP on everything on my 1940 Ford. It was very expensive, as you said. The AC hose and fittings cost more than twice that of the Vintage Air system. Some of the AC fittings were hundreds of dollars, each. I bought some must have assembly tools from KOUL TOOLS. The Koul Tool stuff works really well. Another must have tool I added to my tool inventory is the MASTERCOOL hydraulic tube flare system. This is an expensive tool, but it works properly first time every time. I agree with you 100% on using a chrome combination wrench. Another important and good video. Thanks again BTW. Sharpie colours will cover minor scratches.
I want to get he Koul Tool stuff and will start doing that soon. I have the Mastercool flaring tool and I love it, but I don't have the 37 degree portion of the kit yet. I actually almost ordered it after I made this video, ha. Thanks for the comment. I'm glad to hear you like the Koul Tool stuff, I've heard good things but I'm glad to hear more.
Aeroquip has become quite expensive. Earl's is more affordable and their products are more readily available and they are more attractive. PS: Something that I find no one mentions in these AN hose videos is that the hoses should be washed and capped before installation. You never know what could have gotten inside the hoses and fittings and the cutting process creates little metal shards that will eventually find their way into the engine. appliedspeed.com
Alan: Great video, thank you! I have been plumbing racers and boats since 1972 when hose and fittings were available from Earl's Surplus. Ya, the stuff was still a Korean war surplus issue. I learned how to plumb cars from the crew at All American Racers in the early 70s. One thing we did was to wash the hoses and cap them until they were ready to be installed. The cutting process can generate some metal shards that can eventually find their way into the engines and such.
This is a great explanation. I have been searching for weeks to figure out if I could use an AN/JIC 3/8" tube sleeve and nut on 3/8" steel brake line. You confirmed that. I need to make a line on a piece of equipment(an old tractor)that is GM quick connect on one end, and AN/JIC on the other. This confirmed what I was wondering. Thanks!
Great vid, I changing out my badly rusted out f150 lighting fuel rail. Ford stop making lots of parts. I have to go aftermarket, never used AN fittings before, so your video is very helpful. Thanks.
With most stock steal/brass/alum./etc. fuel lines you can cut the raised barb off, throw on appropriate sized tube nut, and flare the end, or put a ano-tuff hardline -an fitting on. Turning your crap connection into an actual hardline with a -an end. You can screw on a -an shut off/petcock right to it, making any maintenance super easy and clean. Also makes a great anti theft devise, just turn a lever, and no fuel.
Great vid. Really informative. I’m just starting to use AN lines for the first time, so I’m trying to get as much information before I start the swap out.
One of the best and thorough explanations of these I’ve seen. Al from the SkidFactory did a good one but this is way better. Clearly an experienced guide as well. Off to look for some hardline info from you. I subscribed.
Great video. I learned some good stuff from this that didn't know about AN fittings. I'm definitely going to look into using AN fittings on my 56 Bel Air project to give a clean look to the fuel system.
I've switched from hard line to soft on my brake lines. Will never go back. Cost more but it's worth it. Nicopp line is hands down the best line for brakes period. And it does not give you a spongy pedal.
I've had more leaking fittings on the NiCop stuff than any other material. I find it is just too soft and as such it is easy to improperly flare even with good flaring tools. Also it is so soft it doesn't lend to good looking bends as it is too easy to accidentally reform after your intended bend. To each their own. People are paying me for the look that I can produce with stainless and it's going to last longer than any other option on the market so I will stick with stainless.
Although I definitely applaud your anally retentive nature about lining up both halves of the fitting they weren't designed to line up. I would do the same as you but several years as an Aircraft crew chief on military aircraft has made me become painfully aware of the inspection requirements of assembled hoses. Oh and just a sidenote, aircraft do have "allowable leakage" from fittings and only require replacement if the standard is exceeded or there is enough down time to allow it!
"Allowable Leakage" is a phrase I don't think I ever care to hear. Haha In a lot of ways these fittings are overkill for car uses so I like to make sure they are as close to tight as I can get them with them lined up. Very often I actually end up giving them just a hair more of a tighten to achieve it. Maybe over tight but I've not run into an issue yet. Thanks for the input as someone with experience. 👍👍
That just reminded me of when I worked at a Ford dealership. For Warranty BallJoint failure Ford had an allowable tolerance. But in Pennsylvania the State Inspection failure tolerance was less than the Ford BallJoint tolerance. So your balljoints could be bad enough to fail State Inspection but not be Warranty replaced.
HotRodHippie you’re totally right. I most likely won’t use them for my coolant. That would look really cool though. Probably too hard to adapt my fittings too.
I am building a full 3/8 Stainless hard line fuel system (delivery and return) with 316 non ferritic -6 AN fittings for a carburetor to throttle body fuel injection set up. Some of the lines and fittings were gleaned from an HP O2 charging system that uses some kind of 37' slip/press on (?) tapered ferrule, for lack of a better term that serves as the seal between junctions/elbows and tubing. Can you or do you have a video that shows a system with only or mostly AN stainless fittings and lines? I'm learning a lot from your videos. Thank you.
I think I know what you are referring to. I rarely use those type of fittings but I do from time to time. I will see if I have some pieces around to make a video about the topic with.
I'm not 100% sure that I understand what you are asking for. I did a dedicated video about Hard Line Tubing some time after this one, you can find it here: th-cam.com/video/wayKqBT7z00/w-d-xo.html I'd be happy to highlight what you are talking about if I was sure of what it was. I'm going to be doing a couple of Hands-On AN videos very soon, so please let me know. I'll be plumbing the entire fuel and air systems on the 65 C10 I'm currently working on and doing videos about it.
The AN NTP fittings, the fuel pressure regulator you have on the video is the exact one I have and not sure what fittings I need to convert to AN 6. What size is needed, all new to this
Omfg @5:10 this awnsered a simple question i been looking for 2 days straight so thank you for detailing this simplest of facts.Unreal how the smallest things give you a headache when you dont know.
Glad to be of help. I VERY often have to work hard to find the smallest but most critical details. It's really annoying sometimes how some things just fly under the radar. Whether they are assumed to be common knowledge or unimportant, it happens far too often.
nice. what about nominal vs actual sizes, specifically the id? and physical sizes of the fittings when considering tight areas? would be interesting to know before shelling out..
Fittings dimensions vary wildly depending on brand or design so I cannot provide that. Hoses measure in 1/16" of an inch though. -1 = 1/16". So -6 hose is 3/8" ID. Hard Line Tubing measure in OD so -6 is 3/8" OD. Just subtract material thickness of the tubing to find the final ID. But the reduced friction of the smooth Hard Line tube inside more than makes up for a loss in ID. Some manufacturers make a point of specially designing their couple fittings and hose ends to maximize flow and minimize neck down points. Again that wildly varies so you'll have to research specific brands to learn more. I'm
Outstanding video again--you're really kind of my favorite "car craft" you tuber. Question--running a new lines from tank using 6an--I am thinking of trying black nylon-stainless threaded line. Any thoughts? I've had some people say it doesn't seal as well---but on a test fitting--seems fine...any advice would be appreciated.
I use the black nylon braided stuff more often these days. It just looks better and is less abrasive so less concerns about it rubbing a painted surface down the road. I’ve had zero issues with it so far but I’ve only been using it for a few years so far. Thank you very much also. 🙏
Very nice watching a professional at work! Very informative. I have an aluminum radiator with AN- fittings instead of the normal nipples where the radiator hoses connect. It is a retired NASCAR radiator. I want to plumb it with an AN- fitting and braided hose , but I'm having a hard time finding out what size fitting to use. Any suggestions? I'd guess a 24- AN. Great video.
You'll need to measure the outside diameter of the threads. Here is a chart with size information: toplinemachinery.com/pages/jic-fittings-size-chart -16, -20, and -24 are fairly common radiator sized fittings. And to match their size they are usually pricey.
What rules of thumb are there for the the correct AN size for the application? For example, fuel line vs remote oil cooler lines. Presumably the fuel line would be smaller, maybe an 6 AN or something but what about the oil cooler? 8AN? 10 AN? How much volume is too large for an oil system vs too small?
Generally I base my choices off of factory line sizing. Factory Oil Cooler Lines are generally 1/2" to 5/8" in my experience. So -8/-10. Fuel LInes, Power Steering, and Transmission Cooler lines are generally 3/8" or 5/16" so -6 is a good choice there. But if your system is modified to produce more pressure/flow (Fuel Systems most commonly) then you may need to size up for those needs. Such as -8AN Fuel feeds for higher performance engines. Or -10AN (or -12) for Suction side of a Fuel pump. Contacting the manufacturer of parts you are looking to use would likely be a good way to go. Such as a Fuel Pump manufacturer often (in aftermarket cases) has a recommendation for line sizes for use with their systems. The same will likely apply with Oil Cooler Adapters, Power Steering Setups, Etc. Hope this helps. I don't really have a chart to show this. It might be a good idea for me to compile something like that. Maybe I can work with some manufacturers on that and put it on my website.
I usually apply a spot of air tool oil to the threads. There are specific assembly lubes I’ve just never bothered to order. 😬😅 I only do Anti-Seize if using dissimilar metal fittings. So an aluminum fitting onto a steel adapter, I’d use a small spot of A-S. Or when assembling Stainless fittings at all. Stainless on Stainless can gaul, so anti-seize is a must there.
Thanks for the very nice video. I have a 2001 4Runner and I am replacing the transmission cooling lines. I want to go soft tube. Would you know what fitting I need to connect to a metric fitting. The old tube was flare and had an inverted nut. I appreciate any information you could provide.
Are those hose cutters forged or cast? Are they still cutting braided lines well? How do you guys feel about barbed fittings for transmission cooler lines? Were talking low pressure, around 150psi in reverse. AN fittings are going ro cost more.
Nice video, very helpful. Just curious what you think of push lock hoses? They just push over the barb on the fitting and don't get clamped down. I have never used them, but seems like a bad idea to me. Thanks
Push Lok is quite common in racing applications. I can easily see why it seems like a bad idea but it really isn't. I don't use it simply because it is a pain in the rear. It is VERY difficult to fit into the hoses. It fits so tightly that after you install one hose onto a fitting you figure out how they get away without a clamp. The last time I used it was for the oil lines on my CB750 motorcycle. Never had a single problem with those hoses. A company called Koul Tools makes a press tool to assemble the fittings. If I ever do Push-Lok again I'll buy that tool. Doing it by hand is a nightmare.
It depends on the carb you have. Most Dual Feed Holleys use a 7/8"-20 Inlet, so you need an adapter fitting with that size on it. Or you can use a dual rail feed that has the AN fitting on the end. Banjo fittings can be helpful for tight fit applications such as with a Drop Base Air Cleaner, but I cannot find Banjo->AN fittings for 7/8" Holley. There are also 3/4" and 9/16" Holley inlets depending on the carb. Here are links to all of the fittings I just referred to, but I cannot guarantee fit for your situation: *** Dual Feed Line Kit: amzn.to/31DuRHY *** 7/8" Adapter Pair: amzn.to/2Sd8DcV
More focus on the actual depth of hose into the line nut as it tends to be a vatlruable often overlooked. There are brand specific details i have discovered. "Russell" vs "Aeroquip" vs "Redhorse" vs "Evil Energy". Evil Energy does not push on it uses a left hand thread to thread nut onto hose jacket. It also features a rounded transition pinch portion. Most companies talk about how to botyom out the hose into the nut but do not illustrate that key feature. "Aeroquip" for example has a steep edge champher in the section some call the cutter area. This is where the cross brand compatibility ceases. Inside they have what appears to be a directional concentric angled rings very one way barb oriented vs threaded. The area of notice is where the hose is considered bottomed out. Perhaps that is why mine started leaking 3 years after install. Or maybe it was a hose material degradation. It was on engine oil at less than 250°. Time to retrofit. I am fond of the "Russell" brand because it is also my name but they may not be the best design vs cost effective. So champher vs rounded, steep angle vs shallow, threaded vs push on nylon btlraided vs steel braided. There is so much engineeri g goes intovan AN design fitting. You shiuld also tuch base onvtge different thread tolerances of AN at 3 vs JIC at 2. Thank goodness thread spec 1 has all but disappeared.
Can I use an fittings to repair the rack and pinnion hydraulic hard line of a 2007 jeep liberty. They don't make the hard hydralic lines for it and was wondering if I can use a an fitting on new made hydralic line to mate the ends of the cut off orginial ends so to make it work ?
Yes I will be doing AC lines on a project in May or June. 👍👍 When I do AC lines I use Stainless steel tube from Vintage Air and standard Rubber Flex Hose. I would LOVE to be able to use Aluminum tubing but after years of searching I cannot find any way to swage the tubing to attach it to any types of fittings. Aside from $10,000+ shop equipment intended for hydraulic shops.
Swivel fittings do. Every hose end fitting I should in this video was a swivel fitting. (Except the straight ones.) I personally prefer them. I’ve never had a fitting failure and the ease of plumbing with them is a big pro. There are Swivel and Non-Swivel fittings so just watch out when purchasing.
just curious, but what would you still use a regular braided rubber line for over PTFE? PTFE is the new goodness for fuel, brake, p/s.. although pricey.. rubber safe for oil lines? also, did you forget a tube nut @ 9:00? another quick tip would be to wrap some tape/teflon around the base of a fitting before threading on the end to make sure it doesn't push the hose out.
Teflon lined hose is very inflexible when compared to standard braided rubber line. Teflon line is superior in many ways but much more difficult to route cleanly. Also it is smaller in outside diameter than Braided so many aftermarket tube clamps (for attaching and organizing hoses) don't fit it. And it looks small so it isn't as aesthetically pleasing. Many people think they got the wrong size the first time they see -6 Teflon lined hose compared to rubber braided. Rubber braided is fine for oil lines as long as it is properly pressure rated (which almost all of them usually are). The only places I use teflon line hose is Hydraulics (steering, brakes, clutches) or AC lines when folks want the braided look. But honestly I moved away from those uses even. Mostly for the difficulty in routing. As for the tube nut, there wasn't one on there for that demonstration. I was just demoing the flare process. Should have probably noted the easy mistake of not putting the nut on but I just chose not to do it cause I didn't need it for the demo.
@@HotRodHippie cool cool.. ya, i figured it may have just been a short demo piece you were making. what do you use for fuel line if not the teflon? i hate the way the push lock/vapor gaurd stuff looks.. Earls makes some flexible stuff.. if you can afford it.. ultrapro is about $10 a foot and ultra flex is about $20 a foot.. they're only rated for 500 and 1000 psi roughly though..
I've primarily been using the Earl's Pro-Lite braided nylon hose lately. They list it lower on their ratings for pump gas but I've had zero issues. Its good looking, softer outside means it's less likely to rub paint off things, and I haven't had any deterioration issues yet. I agree on the looks of the vapor guard. I'll try and check out the Ultra-Pro. If it's close to as flexible as normal braided I'd be glad to try it out.
I have always wondered if you can use nylon or teflon hoses for radiator hoses. I would love to hear some thoughts on this as I have always used silicone hoses with wide band stainless steel clamps
Do you mean Teflon lined hose? It would be too rigid and I'm not aware of any being made large enough. The teflon lined stuff we use got AC and power steering isn't very forgiving on bends. So routing hoses would be more difficult. But I'm thinking you may be meaning just Teflon and Nylon hose. Nylon tubing degrades rapidly in my experience. Especially when used in relation to heat. It also kinks very easily. Teflon wouldn't have ths kinking or degradation issues but I'd expect it to expand pretty heavily under pressure. Even just 15-20 psi. Maybe something like a PVC flex hose. The coolant hoses in my PC watercooling setup don't see much pressure but they are highly flexible, don't kink easily, and don't degrade from heat.
Great video thank you for sharing. Is it advisable to use 3/16'' Copper nickel tubing with -3AN fittings ? This is specifically for running bulkhead connectors for braking application. Appreciate your advice
My gas tank has two different sized hard lines. One has OD of 1/4 and the other has an OD of 5/16. I want to run -6 AN lines. The only adapters I can find that goes from 1/4 to -6 and 5/16 to -6 are compression fittings?? Am I missing something or are there no tube nuts that convert a 5/16 hardline w/ 37 degree flare to -6 line and 1/4 hardline w/ 37 degree flare to a -6 line?
Great video. I learned alot. But I got a question as i'm unclear about it and I'm going to diy install. Any particular size of an for oil cooler? I'm installing an oil cooler with a sandwich adapter and I'm unsure of AN6, AN8 or AN10? I'm installing it on my CFMoto 650nk, its basically a chinese version of a Ninja 650. Thanks a million.
I would say -8 or -10 for oil lines. Last motorcycle I plumbed was a CB750 and I used -8. However most cars I use -10 for oil lines. The last thing you want is a restriction in your oil system. I would look at the ports you are using to plumb your oil cooler. Are they 1/2"NPT ports? If so -8 is 1/2" equivalent and as such likely won't be a restriction for you.
@@HotRodHippie Thanks for the swift reply. I'm sorry I'm a bit of a newbie to DIY and I'm unsure of the terms you're using. However I haven't bought the sandwich adapter nor the oil cooler radiator yet, but the options available is AN8 and AN10 sandwich adapter for the oil filter. And AN6, AN8 and AN10 oil cooler radiator. Since you recommend AN8 for motorcycle I should go for AN8s for both the sandwich adapter and the oil cooler radiators right? And you mention restrictions, what would happen if I installed a AN10s instead? It's bigger hence better flow right? Thanks!
@@munkeemunks I would go with AN8 personally. AN10 would technically have less restriction, but I just think the tubing would look silly on a motorcycle. As it is around 3/4"+ outside diameter. That is almost as large as many frame tubes on a bike. 8AN should flow plenty fine for a motorcycle engine and won't look quite as silly. Though you may like that look, if you think you would AN10 would flow fine. I just thing it may be a "law of diminishing returns" type of thing. Will 10 flow better than 8? Probably, but the percentage more it would flow is probably not that much compared to smaller sizes. Does that make sense?
@@HotRodHippie Omg yes. Now that you mention it. Hahahahha... It will look like a cyborg Picard. XD Yes, it does make sense. Thanks for the insight and explanation good sir. I'll use the AN8 then. Much obliged!
Every major AN fitting company produces Hardline ends. They basically consist of two parts: 1) Tube Sleeve 2) Tube Nut (aka B-Nut) I did a video dedicated to some hard line tube bending that features them more. th-cam.com/video/wayKqBT7z00/w-d-xo.html If you need more clarification feel free to ask and I will try to help further.
Last time I did anything like that was when I had to redo the fuel system on a Citroen 2CV. 1/4" fuel hard line for the fuel feed and no clamps on the rubber lines, ha.
@@HotRodHippie my cousin has a 2cv. Great little sardine cans. I'm running a few Ladas in stock configuration....but that'll change, I've got a 1st generation rx7 that's giving up its heart to go into a 1980 Lada sedan. That'll about double the HP and lighten it by about 100 lbs.
I have a 6AN-M12*1.5 o-ring fitting. It seems if I tighten this up too much and it bottoms out it will squish out the o-ring. For a universal inline electric fuel pump. I've never tightened me up before but it doesn't have a 1/2 round mating groove to accept o-ring...like i would think it should have. Once the o-ring initially touches mating surface, it's only about 2 full turns till its almost squished out. I assumed with any O ring it would have a machine groove in the mating surface so no matter how tight you got it it would only allow so much compression. This is an o-ring going up against the flat part of the fitting on the pump. I hope I made sense and if anyone can help I greatly appreciate it. Thank you for your video
Do you use AN fittings often? If so what is your most common use case?
6 and 10 ;)
I have never used AN hoses before, I have always used rubber hose. However, I am installing a custom oil cooler (oil to coolant heat exchanger) in my Honda Civic very shortly and that will be my first time. I am going to be making my own 10AN oil lines. I am a bit worried that I am going to mess up since I never made AN lines before, but everyone has to start somewhere and your video was very helpful. Wish me luck LOL!
Best of luck. I would say the biggest rookie mistake is letting the stainless weaving fray when cutting the hose. A lot of people like to wrap the spot they are going to cut with electrical tape or masking tape tightly. That helps prevent fraying. I used to do this but now that I have the hose cutters that I use I don't have any issue with fraying anymore.
@@HotRodHippie That's a great tip, thank you! What is your preference on the material that the lines are made of? I know Teflon is good because it resists extreme heat and chemicals very well and is good for high pressure applications, but I have also heard that it isn't as flexible as standard rubber AN lines? Thanks
@@averyalexander2303 Teflon lined is good for pressure applications but that is the only time I use it. So like Brake lines, Clutch Lines, Power Steering, and AC hoses. It's far less flexible than regular braided so it has to make large sweeping turns, and the fittings don't swivel. So you have to orient your fittings just right when installing them or things won't line up properly. I only use it when I have to at this point. For oil lines you will be fine with standard AN hose.
I personally have been using Russell Pro Classic hose lately. It has a Nylon black weave on the outside. It isn't as strong as regular stainless braided but it's good enough for my applications and has less of a race car look. For the driver/ hot rod cars I'm building that look fits better.
It’s crazy I found you here. I watch you on tiktok for 3D printing!
You should check out my 3D printing channel, aka the one I'm commenting from now! 😂
been on a AN fitting binge today
I have a ranch truck and been having some leaks. Hose and clamp arent holding up on the rough roads, so looking into AN and wow. So much to learn
I used AN AEROQUIP on everything on my 1940 Ford. It was very expensive, as you said. The AC hose and fittings cost more than twice that of the Vintage Air system. Some of the AC fittings were hundreds of dollars, each. I bought some must have assembly tools from KOUL TOOLS. The Koul Tool stuff works really well. Another must have tool I added to my tool inventory is the MASTERCOOL hydraulic tube flare system. This is an expensive tool, but it works properly first time every time.
I agree with you 100% on using a chrome combination wrench. Another important and good video. Thanks again BTW. Sharpie colours will cover minor scratches.
I want to get he Koul Tool stuff and will start doing that soon. I have the Mastercool flaring tool and I love it, but I don't have the 37 degree portion of the kit yet. I actually almost ordered it after I made this video, ha.
Thanks for the comment. I'm glad to hear you like the Koul Tool stuff, I've heard good things but I'm glad to hear more.
Aeroquip has become quite expensive. Earl's is more affordable and their products are more readily available and they are more attractive. PS: Something that I find no one mentions in these AN hose videos is that the hoses should be washed and capped before installation. You never know what could have gotten inside the hoses and fittings and the cutting process creates little metal shards that will eventually find their way into the engine. appliedspeed.com
Alan: Great video, thank you! I have been plumbing racers and boats since 1972 when hose and fittings were available from Earl's Surplus. Ya, the stuff was still a Korean war surplus issue. I learned how to plumb cars from the crew at All American Racers in the early 70s. One thing we did was to wash the hoses and cap them until they were ready to be installed. The cutting process can generate some metal shards that can eventually find their way into the engines and such.
Man, to have a fraction of your knowledge on the topic would be incredible. I imagine you pick up a thing or two over the course of 50 years lol
I was just thinking about how do I word this question in the search bar after many attempts this video popped up. Thanks brotha!
Glad this video found you then. Thanks and I hope my videos give you the info you need.
This is the best video on AN that i've seen so far!!! Thanks!!!
Thank you
Thanks for posting I'm having fuel problems and changing out stock fuel system and didn't know how to put on my ans fittings. AWESOME post!!👌😎
Thanks for the video. I needed to know how to fit two AN fittings together for a fuel line project.
Nice tutorial. You have taken much of the mystery out of AN systems.
Thank you very much 👍👍
This video has helped me to replace a lot of the regular fuel and vacuum lines on my turbo build! thank you!
I’m really glad to hear this could be of help. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
This is a great explanation. I have been searching for weeks to figure out if I could use an AN/JIC 3/8" tube sleeve and nut on 3/8" steel brake line. You confirmed that. I need to make a line on a piece of equipment(an old tractor)that is GM quick connect on one end, and AN/JIC on the other. This confirmed what I was wondering. Thanks!
Glad to be of help. 👍👍
@@HotRodHippie much appreciated! I wish I had seen this earlier.
Brake lines I stick mostly to 45° double inverted flare. I use AN where it makes sense, custom power steering lines, and some fuel system lines.
Great content ! You have a great way of teaching and explaing basics of AN fittings and hardline systems . Thank you .
Good Video. I found the editing and pace to be good. Informative and not boring.
Thank you. Glad you liked it.
Great vid, I changing out my badly rusted out f150 lighting fuel rail. Ford stop making lots of parts. I have to go aftermarket, never used AN fittings before, so your video is very helpful.
Thanks.
Some of my Best education Yet !!!! Thank you , John
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍👍
this guy is awesome. great for diy help very clear and to the point
Much appreciated and I’m glad you liked it. 👍🏻
Fantastic video! Good info and delivery!
Glad you liked it! Thank you
I use them on my fuel and power steering. great video 👍
With most stock steal/brass/alum./etc. fuel lines you can cut the raised barb off, throw on appropriate sized tube nut, and flare the end, or put a ano-tuff hardline -an fitting on. Turning your crap connection into an actual hardline with a -an end. You can screw on a -an shut off/petcock right to it, making any maintenance super easy and clean. Also makes a great anti theft devise, just turn a lever, and no fuel.
Really good video - I will check out your other videos !!
Great vid. Really informative. I’m just starting to use AN lines for the first time, so I’m trying to get as much information before I start the swap out.
Me too.
Loved the content! You are very knowledgeable
Thanks bro your tips are very helpful.
Great Video. Very clean work..
Appreciated, thanks
One of the best and thorough explanations of these I’ve seen. Al from the SkidFactory did a good one but this is way better. Clearly an experienced guide as well. Off to look for some hardline info from you. I subscribed.
AN compression fittings - how tight should the components be tightened?
Great video. I learned some good stuff from this that didn't know about AN fittings. I'm definitely going to look into using AN fittings on my 56 Bel Air project to give a clean look to the fuel system.
Very informative sir thank you
great video. I don't see any Hiippies here!
Nicely done.
Appreciated
Lol I’ve followed you on tictok and this vid randomly started playing.
I’m about to replace all the lines in my 2015 Silverado with high end stainless and braided lines and hoses. ALL OF THEM. Hope she looks good!
That was good & explained very clearly.
Thanks😊
on your hose cutters, remove the metal stop , it allows -10 & -12 hose to fit
Great video, very informative. I dont use AN fittings but I'm starting too now that my race cars are evolving. I learned quite a but here. Thanks
Try the Ridgid 377 flaring tool… you won’t be disappointed bro
I've switched from hard line to soft on my brake lines. Will never go back. Cost more but it's worth it. Nicopp line is hands down the best line for brakes period. And it does not give you a spongy pedal.
I've had more leaking fittings on the NiCop stuff than any other material. I find it is just too soft and as such it is easy to improperly flare even with good flaring tools. Also it is so soft it doesn't lend to good looking bends as it is too easy to accidentally reform after your intended bend.
To each their own. People are paying me for the look that I can produce with stainless and it's going to last longer than any other option on the market so I will stick with stainless.
Thank u I’m getting ready to do my oil cooler fuel lines n steering lines 🤘🏽😎
Glad to be of help. You may find tomorrows video of interest too. It is going to be tips and tricks on bending hard line tubing for those purposes. 👍👍
You have an excellent way of explaining your info. Thank you for this video.
Great subject. I learned a lot today. Thanks.
wyattoneable I'm glad to hear it, thank you!
Although I definitely applaud your anally retentive nature about lining up both halves of the fitting they weren't designed to line up. I would do the same as you but several years as an Aircraft crew chief on military aircraft has made me become painfully aware of the inspection requirements of assembled hoses. Oh and just a sidenote, aircraft do have "allowable leakage" from fittings and only require replacement if the standard is exceeded or there is enough down time to allow it!
"Allowable Leakage" is a phrase I don't think I ever care to hear. Haha
In a lot of ways these fittings are overkill for car uses so I like to make sure they are as close to tight as I can get them with them lined up. Very often I actually end up giving them just a hair more of a tighten to achieve it. Maybe over tight but I've not run into an issue yet.
Thanks for the input as someone with experience. 👍👍
That just reminded me of when I worked at a Ford dealership. For Warranty BallJoint failure Ford had an allowable tolerance. But in Pennsylvania the State Inspection failure tolerance was less than the Ford BallJoint tolerance. So your balljoints could be bad enough to fail State Inspection but not be Warranty replaced.
Nice job, great presentation. Just what I was looking for
Thank you for the video 👍
Can you a video tell us how too look them up like a power steering for a dsm 4g63 and more please
Thank you I want to learn more how do we find the size to make the hole engine with an fitting
This helps a lot. I’m thinking of going with A/N fittings for my projects fuel fittings. Maybe my coolant and oil coolers if I can get away with it.
Large enough hose and fittings for coolant are pricy as heck but sure do look good.
HotRodHippie you’re totally right. I most likely won’t use them for my coolant. That would look really cool though. Probably too hard to adapt my fittings too.
I am building a full 3/8 Stainless hard line fuel system (delivery and return) with 316 non ferritic -6 AN fittings for a carburetor to throttle body fuel injection set up. Some of the lines and fittings were gleaned from an HP O2 charging system that uses some kind of 37' slip/press on (?) tapered ferrule, for lack of a better term that serves as the seal between junctions/elbows and tubing. Can you or do you have a video that shows a system with only or mostly AN stainless fittings and lines? I'm learning a lot from your videos. Thank you.
I think I know what you are referring to. I rarely use those type of fittings but I do from time to time. I will see if I have some pieces around to make a video about the topic with.
What about AN compression fittings for hardlines?
Would be nice to show how to use AN fittings with straight tubing like that used on oil coolers.
I'm not 100% sure that I understand what you are asking for. I did a dedicated video about Hard Line Tubing some time after this one, you can find it here: th-cam.com/video/wayKqBT7z00/w-d-xo.html
I'd be happy to highlight what you are talking about if I was sure of what it was. I'm going to be doing a couple of Hands-On AN videos very soon, so please let me know. I'll be plumbing the entire fuel and air systems on the 65 C10 I'm currently working on and doing videos about it.
Thanks. I'm thinking of installing a oil cooling system on my motorcycle because it seems to struggle after awhile
Amazing. Informative. Great video
Thank you very much
Thank-you. Very helpful
What tool do you use when the hose pushes out?
Dope video. New sub👍🏽
Thank you and thank you for subscribing
The AN NTP fittings, the fuel pressure regulator you have on the video is the exact one I have and not sure what fittings I need to convert to AN 6. What size is needed, all new to this
Huge thanks! 👍👍👍👍👍
Hi bro ... thanks for the great video ... I was wondering if the AN fittings and hoses will compatible with metric equivalent hose sizes?
Omfg @5:10 this awnsered a simple question i been looking for 2 days straight so thank you for detailing this simplest of facts.Unreal how the smallest things give you a headache when you dont know.
Glad to be of help. I VERY often have to work hard to find the smallest but most critical details. It's really annoying sometimes how some things just fly under the radar. Whether they are assumed to be common knowledge or unimportant, it happens far too often.
Very very helpful and detailed thank you buddy
nice. what about nominal vs actual sizes, specifically the id? and physical sizes of the fittings when considering tight areas? would be interesting to know before shelling out..
Fittings dimensions vary wildly depending on brand or design so I cannot provide that. Hoses measure in 1/16" of an inch though. -1 = 1/16". So -6 hose is 3/8" ID. Hard Line Tubing measure in OD so -6 is 3/8" OD. Just subtract material thickness of the tubing to find the final ID. But the reduced friction of the smooth Hard Line tube inside more than makes up for a loss in ID.
Some manufacturers make a point of specially designing their couple fittings and hose ends to maximize flow and minimize neck down points. Again that wildly varies so you'll have to research specific brands to learn more. I'm
@@HotRodHippie 👌
Outstanding video again--you're really kind of my favorite "car craft" you tuber. Question--running a new lines from tank using 6an--I am thinking of trying black nylon-stainless threaded line. Any thoughts? I've had some people say it doesn't seal as well---but on a test fitting--seems fine...any advice would be appreciated.
I use the black nylon braided stuff more often these days. It just looks better and is less abrasive so less concerns about it rubbing a painted surface down the road. I’ve had zero issues with it so far but I’ve only been using it for a few years so far. Thank you very much also. 🙏
Is a quick connect transmission cooler line a 37 degree flare ?
Is it ok to mate a stainless AN bulkhead to an aluminum AN fitting?
You are the man
Very nice watching a professional at work! Very informative. I have an aluminum radiator with AN- fittings instead of the normal nipples where the radiator hoses connect. It is a retired NASCAR radiator. I want to plumb it with an AN- fitting and braided hose , but I'm having a hard time finding out what size fitting to use. Any suggestions? I'd guess a 24- AN. Great video.
You'll need to measure the outside diameter of the threads. Here is a chart with size information: toplinemachinery.com/pages/jic-fittings-size-chart
-16, -20, and -24 are fairly common radiator sized fittings. And to match their size they are usually pricey.
How tight should female end be for AN fittings?
What rules of thumb are there for the the correct AN size for the application? For example, fuel line vs remote oil cooler lines. Presumably the fuel line would be smaller, maybe an 6 AN or something but what about the oil cooler? 8AN? 10 AN? How much volume is too large for an oil system vs too small?
Generally I base my choices off of factory line sizing. Factory Oil Cooler Lines are generally 1/2" to 5/8" in my experience. So -8/-10. Fuel LInes, Power Steering, and Transmission Cooler lines are generally 3/8" or 5/16" so -6 is a good choice there. But if your system is modified to produce more pressure/flow (Fuel Systems most commonly) then you may need to size up for those needs. Such as -8AN Fuel feeds for higher performance engines. Or -10AN (or -12) for Suction side of a Fuel pump.
Contacting the manufacturer of parts you are looking to use would likely be a good way to go. Such as a Fuel Pump manufacturer often (in aftermarket cases) has a recommendation for line sizes for use with their systems. The same will likely apply with Oil Cooler Adapters, Power Steering Setups, Etc.
Hope this helps. I don't really have a chart to show this. It might be a good idea for me to compile something like that. Maybe I can work with some manufacturers on that and put it on my website.
Good tips thanks
What to do if your hose spins when tightening ?
do you suggest any lubricants or anti-seize when installing onto the treads at final installation?
I usually apply a spot of air tool oil to the threads. There are specific assembly lubes I’ve just never bothered to order. 😬😅
I only do Anti-Seize if using dissimilar metal fittings. So an aluminum fitting onto a steel adapter, I’d use a small spot of A-S. Or when assembling Stainless fittings at all. Stainless on Stainless can gaul, so anti-seize is a must there.
How do I find conductive fuel line?
Thanks for the very nice video. I have a 2001 4Runner and I am replacing the transmission cooling lines. I want to go soft tube. Would you know what fitting I need to connect to a metric fitting. The old tube was flare and had an inverted nut. I appreciate any information you could provide.
Are those hose cutters forged or cast? Are they still cutting braided lines well? How do you guys feel about barbed fittings for transmission cooler lines? Were talking low pressure, around 150psi in reverse. AN fittings are going ro cost more.
Quick disconnect to an fitting I think that's what I may need for my application??? Thanks!
What is your application? Quick Connects can vary so I don’t want to just show you the most common ones.
can you please help me with tbss trans line fitting size i need?
Nice video, very helpful. Just curious what you think of push lock hoses? They just push over the barb on the fitting and don't get clamped down. I have never used them, but seems like a bad idea to me. Thanks
Push Lok is quite common in racing applications. I can easily see why it seems like a bad idea but it really isn't. I don't use it simply because it is a pain in the rear. It is VERY difficult to fit into the hoses. It fits so tightly that after you install one hose onto a fitting you figure out how they get away without a clamp. The last time I used it was for the oil lines on my CB750 motorcycle. Never had a single problem with those hoses. A company called Koul Tools makes a press tool to assemble the fittings. If I ever do Push-Lok again I'll buy that tool. Doing it by hand is a nightmare.
@@HotRodHippie Thanks, sounds like more trouble than it's worth then.
gotta link for vazleen?
Thank you
Please cover fuel affects on rubber hose line.
what AN do I use to connect it to a holley carb? should I just uses a banjo?
It depends on the carb you have. Most Dual Feed Holleys use a 7/8"-20 Inlet, so you need an adapter fitting with that size on it. Or you can use a dual rail feed that has the AN fitting on the end. Banjo fittings can be helpful for tight fit applications such as with a Drop Base Air Cleaner, but I cannot find Banjo->AN fittings for 7/8" Holley. There are also 3/4" and 9/16" Holley inlets depending on the carb.
Here are links to all of the fittings I just referred to, but I cannot guarantee fit for your situation:
*** Dual Feed Line Kit: amzn.to/31DuRHY
*** 7/8" Adapter Pair: amzn.to/2Sd8DcV
More focus on the actual depth of hose into the line nut as it tends to be a vatlruable often overlooked. There are brand specific details i have discovered. "Russell" vs "Aeroquip" vs "Redhorse" vs "Evil Energy". Evil Energy does not push on it uses a left hand thread to thread nut onto hose jacket. It also features a rounded transition pinch portion. Most companies talk about how to botyom out the hose into the nut but do not illustrate that key feature. "Aeroquip" for example has a steep edge champher in the section some call the cutter area. This is where the cross brand compatibility ceases. Inside they have what appears to be a directional concentric angled rings very one way barb oriented vs threaded. The area of notice is where the hose is considered bottomed out. Perhaps that is why mine started leaking 3 years after install. Or maybe it was a hose material degradation. It was on engine oil at less than 250°. Time to retrofit. I am fond of the "Russell" brand because it is also my name but they may not be the best design vs cost effective. So champher vs rounded, steep angle vs shallow, threaded vs push on nylon btlraided vs steel braided. There is so much engineeri g goes intovan AN design fitting. You shiuld also tuch base onvtge different thread tolerances of AN at 3 vs JIC at 2. Thank goodness thread spec 1 has all but disappeared.
Can I use an fittings to repair the rack and pinnion hydraulic hard line of a 2007 jeep liberty. They don't make the hard hydralic lines for it and was wondering if I can use a an fitting on new made hydralic line to mate the ends of the cut off orginial ends so to make it work ?
Can you make a video on making custom AC Hardline.
Is AC hardline special or can I purchase a coil of aluminum pipe.
Thank you
Yes I will be doing AC lines on a project in May or June. 👍👍
When I do AC lines I use Stainless steel tube from Vintage Air and standard Rubber Flex Hose.
I would LOVE to be able to use Aluminum tubing but after years of searching I cannot find any way to swage the tubing to attach it to any types of fittings. Aside from $10,000+ shop equipment intended for hydraulic shops.
When selecting tubing for a -6 project, is it 3/8 ID or OD? TIA.
Outside Diameter 👍
Do some of them pivot or rotate while tight?
Swivel fittings do. Every hose end fitting I should in this video was a swivel fitting. (Except the straight ones.) I personally prefer them. I’ve never had a fitting failure and the ease of plumbing with them is a big pro. There are Swivel and Non-Swivel fittings so just watch out when purchasing.
just curious, but what would you still use a regular braided rubber line for over PTFE? PTFE is the new goodness for fuel, brake, p/s.. although pricey.. rubber safe for oil lines? also, did you forget a tube nut @ 9:00? another quick tip would be to wrap some tape/teflon around the base of a fitting before threading on the end to make sure it doesn't push the hose out.
Teflon lined hose is very inflexible when compared to standard braided rubber line. Teflon line is superior in many ways but much more difficult to route cleanly. Also it is smaller in outside diameter than Braided so many aftermarket tube clamps (for attaching and organizing hoses) don't fit it. And it looks small so it isn't as aesthetically pleasing. Many people think they got the wrong size the first time they see -6 Teflon lined hose compared to rubber braided.
Rubber braided is fine for oil lines as long as it is properly pressure rated (which almost all of them usually are). The only places I use teflon line hose is Hydraulics (steering, brakes, clutches) or AC lines when folks want the braided look. But honestly I moved away from those uses even. Mostly for the difficulty in routing.
As for the tube nut, there wasn't one on there for that demonstration. I was just demoing the flare process. Should have probably noted the easy mistake of not putting the nut on but I just chose not to do it cause I didn't need it for the demo.
@@HotRodHippie cool cool.. ya, i figured it may have just been a short demo piece you were making. what do you use for fuel line if not the teflon? i hate the way the push lock/vapor gaurd stuff looks.. Earls makes some flexible stuff.. if you can afford it.. ultrapro is about $10 a foot and ultra flex is about $20 a foot.. they're only rated for 500 and 1000 psi roughly though..
I've primarily been using the Earl's Pro-Lite braided nylon hose lately. They list it lower on their ratings for pump gas but I've had zero issues. Its good looking, softer outside means it's less likely to rub paint off things, and I haven't had any deterioration issues yet.
I agree on the looks of the vapor guard. I'll try and check out the Ultra-Pro. If it's close to as flexible as normal braided I'd be glad to try it out.
Can the stainless steel braided hose and AN fittings be used for on board air system with load leveling and a train horn?
Absolutely. I use it to plumb air ride suspensions.
what about the version without a shoulder on the outer nut, how far does the hose go in?
Da Os I am not familiar with what you are talking about. Or at least not understanding from that description. Sorry.
@@HotRodHippie no worries, thanks for the reply.
I have always wondered if you can use nylon or teflon hoses for radiator hoses. I would love to hear some thoughts on this as I have always used silicone hoses with wide band stainless steel clamps
Do you mean Teflon lined hose? It would be too rigid and I'm not aware of any being made large enough. The teflon lined stuff we use got AC and power steering isn't very forgiving on bends. So routing hoses would be more difficult.
But I'm thinking you may be meaning just Teflon and Nylon hose. Nylon tubing degrades rapidly in my experience. Especially when used in relation to heat. It also kinks very easily. Teflon wouldn't have ths kinking or degradation issues but I'd expect it to expand pretty heavily under pressure. Even just 15-20 psi.
Maybe something like a PVC flex hose. The coolant hoses in my PC watercooling setup don't see much pressure but they are highly flexible, don't kink easily, and don't degrade from heat.
Great video thank you for sharing. Is it advisable to use 3/16'' Copper nickel tubing with -3AN fittings ? This is specifically for running bulkhead connectors for braking application. Appreciate your advice
So the standard brake flare tool kits you can get from the parts store will not do a 37 degree flare is this correct?
That is correct. Totally different angle (45 degree) on that. Sadly ones that can do stainless tubing at 37 degrees are pricey for the most part.
P.S. Your braided hose cutter link is dead: "no longer available".
Thank you. It is hard to keep up with links changing all the time. I'll see about updating it shortly.
Haha, yeah, i'll bookmark something on Amazon, and the next day the link is dead :'(
My gas tank has two different sized hard lines. One has OD of 1/4 and the other has an OD of 5/16. I want to run -6 AN lines. The only adapters I can find that goes from 1/4 to -6 and 5/16 to -6 are compression fittings?? Am I missing something or are there no tube nuts that convert a 5/16 hardline w/ 37 degree flare to -6 line and 1/4 hardline w/ 37 degree flare to a -6 line?
Great video. I learned alot. But I got a question as i'm unclear about it and I'm going to diy install.
Any particular size of an for oil cooler? I'm installing an oil cooler with a sandwich adapter and I'm unsure of AN6, AN8 or AN10?
I'm installing it on my CFMoto 650nk, its basically a chinese version of a Ninja 650.
Thanks a million.
I would say -8 or -10 for oil lines. Last motorcycle I plumbed was a CB750 and I used -8. However most cars I use -10 for oil lines. The last thing you want is a restriction in your oil system.
I would look at the ports you are using to plumb your oil cooler. Are they 1/2"NPT ports? If so -8 is 1/2" equivalent and as such likely won't be a restriction for you.
@@HotRodHippie
Thanks for the swift reply.
I'm sorry I'm a bit of a newbie to DIY and I'm unsure of the terms you're using.
However I haven't bought the sandwich adapter nor the oil cooler radiator yet, but the options available is AN8 and AN10 sandwich adapter for the oil filter.
And AN6, AN8 and AN10 oil cooler radiator.
Since you recommend AN8 for motorcycle I should go for AN8s for both the sandwich adapter and the oil cooler radiators right?
And you mention restrictions, what would happen if I installed a AN10s instead? It's bigger hence better flow right?
Thanks!
@@munkeemunks I would go with AN8 personally. AN10 would technically have less restriction, but I just think the tubing would look silly on a motorcycle. As it is around 3/4"+ outside diameter. That is almost as large as many frame tubes on a bike. 8AN should flow plenty fine for a motorcycle engine and won't look quite as silly.
Though you may like that look, if you think you would AN10 would flow fine. I just thing it may be a "law of diminishing returns" type of thing. Will 10 flow better than 8? Probably, but the percentage more it would flow is probably not that much compared to smaller sizes. Does that make sense?
@@HotRodHippie
Omg yes. Now that you mention it. Hahahahha...
It will look like a cyborg Picard. XD
Yes, it does make sense. Thanks for the insight and explanation good sir. I'll use the AN8 then.
Much obliged!
Where do you source your a/n hardline ends? I'm having a tough time finding them!
Every major AN fitting company produces Hardline ends.
They basically consist of two parts:
1) Tube Sleeve
2) Tube Nut (aka B-Nut)
I did a video dedicated to some hard line tube bending that features them more. th-cam.com/video/wayKqBT7z00/w-d-xo.html
If you need more clarification feel free to ask and I will try to help further.
On mine, I only have fuel lines and system runs only 3psi. An fittings are just over kill. Good video though.
iambeeman1 I mean in a fan of overkill. But yea that's pretty darn overkill.
Yup, serious overkill. If your rubber is good and tight, you can get away without clamps....not a good idea but doable.
Last time I did anything like that was when I had to redo the fuel system on a Citroen 2CV. 1/4" fuel hard line for the fuel feed and no clamps on the rubber lines, ha.
@@HotRodHippie my cousin has a 2cv. Great little sardine cans. I'm running a few Ladas in stock configuration....but that'll change, I've got a 1st generation rx7 that's giving up its heart to go into a 1980 Lada sedan. That'll about double the HP and lighten it by about 100 lbs.
iambeeman1 a rotary Lada, I dig it.
I have a 6AN-M12*1.5 o-ring fitting. It seems if I tighten this up too much and it bottoms out it will squish out the o-ring. For a universal inline electric fuel pump. I've never tightened me up before but it doesn't have a 1/2 round mating groove to accept o-ring...like i would think it should have. Once the o-ring initially touches mating surface, it's only about 2 full turns till its almost squished out.
I assumed with any O ring it would have a machine groove in the mating surface so no matter how tight you got it it would only allow so much compression. This is an o-ring going up against the flat part of the fitting on the pump. I hope I made sense and if anyone can help I greatly appreciate it. Thank you for your video