Hi, folks! I recognise some of you have commented saying that you need to remove the wheel arch lining to properly soundproof the wheel arch, which I recognise, but at the time the video was shot, I was still learning. I'll post an update video on the channel in due time. Cheers! UPDATE: New Video is finally here! th-cam.com/video/4uoy9ejc1Wk/w-d-xo.html
Hi @jamieaygo. NIce video and info. I find it interesting however that you used sound deadening material on the exterior that is made for interiors. Since you made this video, how has it held up during the winter months? I'm guessing ok. The foil will get tattered in time but the buytl rubber will stay stuck on. I think you realize that sound deadening material doesn't really lower road noise but dampens resonate frequencies for less higher frequency feedback. So, if you used it in the floorboard and firewall to dampen those frequencies inside the cabin, you'll notice that difference. I have a 1897 VW Scirocco 16V that I've dampened in the trunk area, all floor area, parts of the doors and rear panels along with a 3/8" butyl rubber mat in the trunk area. That really dampens the higher frequencies coming from the muffler. I only have jute and the OEM rubber mat over the firewall. I'll eventually put Kilmat on the firewall for added dampening along with the roof and then the entire cabin will be sound dampened. Installing what I have already has made a huge difference as 16V motors are louder than 8V motors along with the added in the road noise and freer flowing muffler.
I have successfully removed a LOT of drone noise and NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) from my car after doing four things that made a big difference. (And I had like everyone else started off by trying to get things quiet using butyl mats/dynamat etc. I realised that that had a very limited effect and beginners usually end up sticking down way too much of the stuff and later regret it because you start thinking how much you’ve weighed the car down by. And a year or three down the line you end up taking two thirds of it back out - or trying to). Here in England I run a 2011 Ford Mondeo (Fusion) estate/station wagon. MY FOUR BIG TIPS for INSTANTLY reducing noise (REMEMBER - you are NOT going to get your sub-$25thousand dollar car to hush like a Bentley. BUT - you can get a LONG way towards it.) NUMBER ONE - REPLACE YOUR TYRES. If you want quiet, you need to LIFT the car further away from the ground and have less tyre in contact with the ground. So run NARROWER tyres with a TALLER SIDE WALL and if you can a SMALLER RIM SIZE. I replaced my 215 55 R17 tyres with 205 65 R16 tyres on replaced 16 inch rims. This dramatically reduced the rolling drone of the tyres on the road and gave a softer ride because the taller side wall raised the car further above the ground as well as reducing the contact with the ground. Yes you will get less of a sporty ride but I’m not interested in a sporty ride. NUMBER TWO - INSERT SURGICAL TUBING into all your door seals. You need to improve resistance to outside sounds coming in. Adding surgical tubing into all your door seals makes them nice and snug. Don’t go TOO tight though - get the right tube width - or else you won’t be able to shut the doors and you’ll feel real dumb. NUMBER THREE - Buy cheap ‘RECON FOAM’ cut it up into small cubes and shove it compacted into all the empty cavities under the trim around the console, footwells and glove compartment. You wouldn’t believe how many just open holes there are in that area doing nothing but causing sound from the engine and up from the ground to reverberate around. Foam (NEVER USE SPRAY FOAM - it will enter places you really don’t want it to get and you will never get it out in the event of a repair requirement) dampens all that NVH and contributes to the multi-pronged solution we are going for. You need to do a LOT of things to add up to removing those decibels. NUMBER FOUR - Go to the back of the car. On most cars under the rear bumper on the left and right corner areas hidden away you will find a one-way ventilation flap on each side of the car. These are interior pressure flaps that allow air to escape from the car when the doors are closed and to allow ‘used’ air to escape from the cabin as new air enters from the front air vents. BUT they usually are located behind a very large cavity that sits adjacent to the rear wheel arches. In some cars you can reach into this large empty cavity through the back hole at the rear of the small felt door/closet you find in the left or right wall of the boot/trunk - the little hidden hole you might put an emergency traffic cone or yellow jacket in for example. I discovered these cavities causes a LOT of droning noise. The noise from the rear wheel comes straight through them, reverberates and comes out through the interior rear air escape vents. FILL ONE OF THESE CAVITIES UP! Don’t fill both - you need one to maintain the ability to release the cabin air pressure remember - and often the fuel fill area prevents access to one of the cavities depending on if you have a left or right hand drive. But if you can get access to one side - fill it up tight with old rags, recon foam, old carpet that can be scrunched up - you want as much as possible to remove cavity space that creates reverb. Use anything not too heavy but DENSE. So recon foam, being more dense, is a lot better at dampening and muffling drone than, say, bubble wrap. Pack it in tight - and there’s room for a LOT of foam and rags in there. The more you stuff in the quieter you'll get. This for me REMOVED 80 to 90% of the heavy drone in the back of the car - which had been particularly irksome on long motorway journeys. NUMBER FOUR POINT ONE (!) Not essential but this improved my car dramatically - If your car is one of those that tilts down slightly towards the front end (to allow for the backend to dip slightly and the car to even out when the trunk is fully loaded) buy a pair of polyurethane lifting spacers to sit at the top of your front struts. Your garage can fit them for about $250. They again move the front end higher off the ground, away from the noise of the road. So coupled with the tyres we’re really changing how close we are to the noise of the road. Plus they make the car sit more evenly and look a lot better... SO These are my main tips for really getting to a quieter, pleasant drive. And they have really worked for me. I wish you all the best with your own particular car - every one has its quirks and every one will have slightly different solutions. It's a lot of sometimes unpleasant work, but persevere and you can get a nice result.
Any thoughts on rolls of brown packing paper like the stuff amazon use? Thoughts are it's easier to pull out instead of recon foam and maybe easier to get/ship. Obviously it needs to be quite scrunched up to have a similar effect but would be interested in your thoughts.
Thanks, end of this year might try changing 225/55/16 for the tires in front to 205/60/16. 😂😂😂😂. Let see if less noise coming front tire area into cabin. Will also try putting those sound block of 2mm black butly to that come with thin aluminium. But will apply directly onto the external side of the plastic cover of the wheel arches. This way sound waves will 1st have to hit these sound blocks before travelling thru the plastic cover for the wheel arches. 🤔🤔🤔😂😂😂
I agree with most of this. But, increasing the sidewall with the smaller rim doesn't increase the amount the car sits above the ground. It just changes the ratio. I would definitely not recommend getting a larger wheel because it distorts so many things on your car and isn't good for the engine or transmission with the added lug.
I've done lots of private cars so I can share my knowledge what works and what doesn't. -Wheel arches - silent only the engine and maybe 20$ of the road noise. Most road noise is transmitted thru metal - hence suspension. The stiffer the suspension you have the worse the results will be. Silencing them with alubutyl, foam and felt (closed in a foil). Silencing the parts where the struts go to, but do it with you hood open - use polyester. Engine cover - polyurethane foam. -The roof - 50% of the noise coomes from the roof - airborne noise - use polyethyleneand alubutyl and a thick felt (12mm at lest). -A, B , C pillars, cover both ends with thick 8-10 cm polyurethane foam. Inside of the pillar put a felt or thinsulate. -NOW - the big part, the floor. take out all the seats and carpets: - alubutyl - 20-40% of the coverage area but it should be 4-5mm thick - then felt - 8mm but hard felt - and epdm rubber You need three layers. Dampening, absorbing and blocking. Don't use foams - they are already present in your carpets for sure. If you use foams they won't absorb the sound - jest block some reverbing sounds so it doesn't sound like a tin inside, hence we use polyethylene foam on the roof. -The doors, some alubutyl on the outerlayer of inner door cavity, just 30-40% - don't put too much like in "big companies" trend. Now use polyethylene with a glue to cover the area juest under the door trim. Then add felt - use an adhesive tape, and then an epdm rubber. -Now - under the rear seat - alubutyl plus polyethylene plus epdm. The trunk - same thing like under the carpets. I did a loud volvo. Came down from 76db! to 65dB (65dB is the level of BMW F10 at 85mph) That adds quite weight to your car. It feels like a completely different car. Now no raising voice or turning the volume up when driving 85mph on a harsh highway...
@g.s.7383 was that reduction in dBs with just the floor or with the roof, side pillars and wheel arches covered as well? I'm planning to sound deaden my 23 VW Arteon as it doesn't get the acoustic package in the US that it does in Europe. Trying to figure out if I should only do the wheel arches or the floor or the floor + ceiling (no wheel arches).
@@KlmDetI didn’t do everything in one go. I took me a few weeks when I had some free time. Well, the footwell, under the seats, the doors, and the trunk made an immediate difference. I’d still ad some bitumen and felt on top of the fenders - it quiets down when on wet or gravel road. Now I own a Lexus. Gs 350 AWD 2013. It’s not so quiet as everyone says. I want to quiet it down but driving at 75 is as quiet that I postpone my works. I’m in the middle of online shopping for deadening materials. This time I’ll be dampening the tunnel, wheel arches, and under the carpet area.
I’ve done similar wheel arch sound dampening with Morel 2.6mm damp mats for all of the wheel arches. As you have mentioned the sound proofing is more evident at higher speeds of 100kmph+ . It’s worth the effort.
The problem with soundproofing especially on a cheap car is for me, when you cancel out one noise, the small rattles before that were quiet are now noticeable 😂
You're absolutely right! That's a battle you'll have with most cars in general as when you start cancelling out noise, it's helpful to think of it as you're trying to cancel out a music track. You have road noise, cabin squeaks, vibrations, etc. These all form part of the track you're trying to quiet.
Awesome! Did you manage to do it, yet? Yes, air noise at speed is an issue I'm hoping to solve by properly insulating all the doors. Will definitely be posting some more videos on it in the future!
😂 that sound dampening material is for interior use under your carpet. IF you want to sound dampen your wheel wells, raptor undercoating or spray on truck bed liner is best. I actually had the trunk of my 1968 impala sprayed with the stuff because of the risk of oil leaks from the hydraulic suspension system.
Well done on your continued efforts Jamie , I think I would have persevered with getting those wheel arch liners out to stop any drumming of the wing being a thin steel panel. Even if it meant a few new trim buttons from ebay or toyota mate
Thank you for the tips, Mike. I totally miss things like this, so thanks for the advice. I definitely need get better at looking past little problems like these.
Butyl doesn’t do much in the wheel arch by itself, but it makes a great base to add more layers. A 10mm soft closed cell foam on top helps more. There are also multi layered mats that have different densities in one, which are even better.
Great shout, and yes, it is something I have begun to add to the wheel arches, although it does take a while, ha! I am hoping to post a full sound proofing video for the car shortly!
Another thing you could do is upgrade to 16 inch wheels, that would allow you to buy Hankook Ventus S1 Evo-2 tyres. they a have polyurethane foam inlay sheet on the inside of the tyre that help alot with the interior noise inside and out (if you drive with the windows down)
I wouldn't personally mess with those kinds of tires. Instead get some soft compound (new) quiet summer tires. If you want even quieter, you can buy quiet winter tires which will also have the softest compounds and unlike summer tyres - the winter tyre compound will stay softer for longer.
Good humor. I like the video. Personally I think the loss of effect at higher speeds is because at that point, more noise is coming from the wind, and not the wheels. You would have to do the floor and the front.
Yeah, good shout with that observation. I've noticed from doing the doors that mass-loaded-vinyl (MLV) really helps with this, but it's a little impractical to put on a wheel arch, ha!
In addition to soundproofing, this would protect from stones flying off the wheels chipping paint and starting rust. Good video mate, keep them coming!
You did it wrong, there are 3 types of sound proofing for cars. Vibro: remove vibration, prevent metal, plastic to rattle or resonance due to loud subwoofer, we use this to completely remove the sound of rain drops by installing this on car ceiling.The one you install is a vibro. Insulator: as the name suggest, we use this material as 2nd line of defense. Absorber: this is to absorb leakage sound that slip from the insulator. Install facing inside the cabin to absorb car audio leaking to outside and install facing outside to absorb the road and traffic noise. Go for Silentcoat they made they best car soundproofing. Go for noisekill if you want to make it cheaper. Watch CAS audio, they make good tutor.
Thanks for the videos, you're inspiring me to do the same sort of soundproofing for my Toyota. If you're going to keep taking your wheels off it would be best if you purchased a socket that fits the wheel nuts, a breaker bar, and a torque wrench. Much safer for you and the wheel nuts than the wrench that came with the car.
Thank you, and yes, you are right. I think I'll be picking up one of the electric drill-nut-thingys, ha! I did initially want to just stick to bare minimum with respect to costs, but that's gone out of the window, so I might as well make my life easier/safer if I can.
Your dedication to this cause is unmatched... However I feel you may have devalued your car in the process and would suggest anyone else considering this route just buy a Lexus 😅 Lots of love!
One of the other most important things not mentioned in this video is really improving your weather stripping and seals around your doors and windoes. This will vastly improve your sound proofing because sound is just a pressure wave that travels through the air and if the air itself can get in then so can the sound. A lot of road noises you are hearing while driving is also just the wind and obviously if you can seal off the inside air from the outside air then there will be less turbulence and thus quieter sound. :)
Get a hollow closet clothing rod extension and use it as a cheater bar on the tire wrench for more leverage when loosening. You can stick some twigs in the space in between to prevent too much pressure on any one point of the tire wrench. Just don't use the cheater bar for tightening.
I use an extendable 2ft long tire wrench + a weighting machine. Initially I will cross tighten all the wheel nut moderately using the 1ft long tire wrench. When 110ft lb of torque is required to tighten the wheel nut I stand on the weighing machine. Then I put part of my body weight, usinh both arms & hands, onto the end of the extended 2ft bar I let the reading weight machine drop by 55lbs.
do you know, add rubber seal to any hole that connected to the door significantly improve soundproofing than any sound deadening material you add. make sure you have no hole from the wheel to the door. thats the noise came from.
I highly recommend keeping your stock tire size. Maybe buy quieter tires yes, but do not mess with changing tire size. Also new tires should be quieter. I'm not sure you should stuff rags anywhere in your car either.
yeah, good observation. I plan on picking up some new wheels and will be definitely staying with the stock tyre size just purely to maintain ride comfort. I won't be adding rags to my car anytime soon 😂
What's up bro. I'm about to spray some dei boom mat spray on the underbody of my s2000 to try and lower road noise and maybe exhaust drone? We'll see. "Thinsulate" maybe I'll win 🤞. Keep on making some cool s2000 videos bro 😎
Hello. The observation that sound from the engine becomes prevalent as you sound deaden the one from the road made me think twice about doing this on my Polo. Thank you for your thoughts.
Hey, Marius! I think it is still worth doing. What I am going to do to deaden the engine noise somewhat is to go as far up as I can in the footwell and add some cell-based foam on top of the foam that is already in place, just to see how much it helps. I have done this in a video previously, but I feel more experienced to give it another go, ha!
@@jamieaygo Please let us know how much sound reduction you can get from that. Combining the sound deadening of the hood with that of the footwell should give a reasonable result. Good luck!
Great observation and it's something I considered early on. I'm actually going to strip it out soon and see what (if any) damage there is. I've only done it like this on one side just to test this very thing. Might not have wheel arch left, ha!
The surface has to be dry before you put the plates on and you have to perfectly stick it to the metal. You should use a roller for it. If you do it properly, no moisture can get between the two materials.
I accidentally completely removed all vehicle noise by fibreglassing the undercarriage and chassis to prevent rust I have to park outside so I did this for just that purpose the cancelling all the noise was a bonus but the handling and steering also noticeable improved it was like driving a prairie wagon around corners before compared to now I can't really explain why that is except the little tack welds that hold it together are now not needed because it now has much stronger joinery and doesn't sway when going into corners.
I had a little bit of experience after defining gravity working upside down underneath the car now I can do anything fibreglass 😀 I highly recommend it you will notice the sound drop off quarter way through all I hear is the keys jingle in the ignition if I stall I have to rely upon the gauge can't hear a thing from inside .
Sure all the things you need are cheap or free the big one is timber slats I got mine from old bed dumped on rubbish the pine half inch thick four inch wide slats cut them the distance between ground and undercarriage make each one 1cm longer then the next and label them 1-2-3-4 this you need in reach when you're under the car you will only have one hand free to wedge the correct size slat under your " sticker" to make your sticker take a off cut from the timber put a sponge on it cut to same shape as timber wrap in plastic lunch wrap just dishwashing sponge flat rectangle type wrapped with the timber then just cut the fibreglass chopped mat into the desired shape ( can't exceed width or length of the sponge) place on-top of the plastic wrapped sponge I resin the plastic then lay the fibreglass down resin again on-top then you can push that up onto undercarriage excess resin will drip everywhere when you apply pressure with the wedges that's it your done your first patch wait till dry remove scaffold peel off the timber and sponge you should only have to sand around the edges where resin dripped and formed stalactites prepare area before just like painting or welding.
Great questions. On the rear, I actually managed to do both the inside and outside, which is ideal if you can reach both. I'm looking at removing this from the front soon, just to see if any moisture soaked in causing corrosion. Hopefully not!
Thanks, David. This is a great shout. I had a look at the guys TH-cam channel and his specific videos on axle stands, and it's a great (if terrifying) watch. I did notice that the axle stand he tested, which is the one I have, looked faulty to me. When mine arrived, there isn't any play in the legs supports at all. Not like what he had. Still worth keeping in mind and if I ever do go under the car, I'll be following every safety measure in the book!
Should have chucked a T style lug wrench in the online shopping cart. I hate those simple ones cars come with. So hard to get decent, balanced leverage.
Did you really wonder if it was safe to put sound proofing in the wheel wells? I mean, it might be unsafe if you put the stuff on all of windows but in the wheel wells?
the adhesive is really strong, so there are no worries of it falling off. The only concern some people may have is that the wheel arch may corrode due to moisture getting in.
That's a good shout, but I'm going to be pulling it off later, so I figured spraying it would just be a waste. If you are leaving it on, spraying it black is a solid recommendation.
Doing this today to my mk2 clio. Gonna take the liners out and do it in the channel bit on the wing. Its already got some foam in there as standard so guess its showing me where it needs to be. Shall see what difference it makes before doing the doors and the rear ones.
@@jamieaygo yep. Done the front arches and the rears. Also the boot floor and under the back seat. It all went fairly smoothly install wise part from one awkward screw. Noise wise, id say its a little bit quieter and lower in tone, not as white noisey, so appears to have done the job and makes it far easier to listen to. Put some weather stripping along the front edge of the doors behind the hinge and up where the a pillar is. Has cut wind noise greatly and now ya just hear the traffic noise when things pass so all in all, money and time well spent.
From this video the wheel arch is partly or about 50% covered. So the drumming effect of road noises, onto the the uncovered part of plastic wheel arch cover, is still unmuted. Applied sound block so far is about 1.8 to 2lb. I am copying what you did but starting from outer part of the of the wheel arch plastic cover!. Tapping the plastic cover with finger tips, before vs after applying sound block, indicate it the sound is only muted slightly. 😂😂😂 Perhaps it is still a good enough ROI. Regards. I am taking it slow. I am limiting covering each wheel arch plastic with 3.3lb of similar sound block.
I am going to publish a video in the near future that focuses on how I have soundproofed my entire car, so stay tuned for that. I think taking it slow is a good approach and in general, the process of sound proofing a car is quite a huge undertaking and it really does take time!
I likely misuse these terms although it seems the car industry likes to refer to terms like "sound deadening", "sound dampening"and "sound insulation" interchangeably.
Why didnt you just put it in gear and you wouldve been able to loosen and tighten the wheel bolts, +even more safe lifting the car up. Oh and by the look of it, tyre guy overtightened them like crazy, you should get a torque wrench
You're dead on the money with the latter comment. One of the wheels was so seized on that I had to buy a lug nut removal kit to get it off. Not even an impact wrench moved them!
Yeah, I've seen that video. While it may be the "worst" in their opinion, theirs is clearly broken. Mine has nowhere near that amount of leg wobble and if it did, I'd send it back.
@@jamieaygo Well.. you do need to remove all of the trim, but I would expect you to be able to lay this in the wheel well as well ... I am not that familiar with the Aygo but certainly on my car it is possible.
yeah, I hear you regarding the trim. When this was filmed, it was all quite new to me so I will be uploading an updated video where I do actually remove the trim and install sound proofing on the actual wheel arch. In regards to the car, it will very likely will be possible to remove all of the interior carpeting on the Aygo, but it would be quite the task without removing parts of the dash, etc and speaking frankly, I didn't want to take on that work.
Interesting attempt. BTW, I would NOT continue using that jack stand. Some tests of several jack stands including the design you're using. th-cam.com/video/hXzusz_eUy8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for sharing! Yeah, I've seen this. To me, the one he is using is clearly broken. I have the exact same one and it does not have that level of flex in the leg. If I do actually go under the car at any point, I'll definitely look at some other options 👍
the sound proofing world isn't short on semantic confusion. The clearest definition is probably sound deadening (killing vibrations) VS sound dampening (lower overall sound oscillations) and that's not even bringing sound proofing (which seems to mean the general practice of making your car quieter) or sound absorption into the equation. Yikes!
Yep. Can absolutely see that. I think it's always a good idea to draw the line somewhere. I won't be pulling the seats out or ripping the roof lining off, that's for sure!
Hi, folks! I recognise some of you have commented saying that you need to remove the wheel arch lining to properly soundproof the wheel arch, which I recognise, but at the time the video was shot, I was still learning. I'll post an update video on the channel in due time. Cheers! UPDATE: New Video is finally here! th-cam.com/video/4uoy9ejc1Wk/w-d-xo.html
Hi @jamieaygo. NIce video and info. I find it interesting however that you used sound deadening material on the exterior that is made for interiors. Since you made this video, how has it held up during the winter months? I'm guessing ok. The foil will get tattered in time but the buytl rubber will stay stuck on.
I think you realize that sound deadening material doesn't really lower road noise but dampens resonate frequencies for less higher frequency feedback. So, if you used it in the floorboard and firewall to dampen those frequencies inside the cabin, you'll notice that difference. I have a 1897 VW Scirocco 16V that I've dampened in the trunk area, all floor area, parts of the doors and rear panels along with a 3/8" butyl rubber mat in the trunk area. That really dampens the higher frequencies coming from the muffler. I only have jute and the OEM rubber mat over the firewall. I'll eventually put Kilmat on the firewall for added dampening along with the roof and then the entire cabin will be sound dampened. Installing what I have already has made a huge difference as 16V motors are louder than 8V motors along with the added in the road noise and freer flowing muffler.
I have successfully removed a LOT of drone noise and NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) from my car after doing four things that made a big difference. (And I had like everyone else started off by trying to get things quiet using butyl mats/dynamat etc. I realised that that had a very limited effect and beginners usually end up sticking down way too much of the stuff and later regret it because you start thinking how much you’ve weighed the car down by. And a year or three down the line you end up taking two thirds of it back out - or trying to). Here in England I run a 2011 Ford Mondeo (Fusion) estate/station wagon. MY FOUR BIG TIPS for INSTANTLY reducing noise (REMEMBER - you are NOT going to get your sub-$25thousand dollar car to hush like a Bentley. BUT - you can get a LONG way towards it.) NUMBER ONE - REPLACE YOUR TYRES. If you want quiet, you need to LIFT the car further away from the ground and have less tyre in contact with the ground. So run NARROWER tyres with a TALLER SIDE WALL and if you can a SMALLER RIM SIZE. I replaced my 215 55 R17 tyres with 205 65 R16 tyres on replaced 16 inch rims. This dramatically reduced the rolling drone of the tyres on the road and gave a softer ride because the taller side wall raised the car further above the ground as well as reducing the contact with the ground. Yes you will get less of a sporty ride but I’m not interested in a sporty ride. NUMBER TWO - INSERT SURGICAL TUBING into all your door seals. You need to improve resistance to outside sounds coming in. Adding surgical tubing into all your door seals makes them nice and snug. Don’t go TOO tight though - get the right tube width - or else you won’t be able to shut the doors and you’ll feel real dumb. NUMBER THREE - Buy cheap ‘RECON FOAM’ cut it up into small cubes and shove it compacted into all the empty cavities under the trim around the console, footwells and glove compartment. You wouldn’t believe how many just open holes there are in that area doing nothing but causing sound from the engine and up from the ground to reverberate around. Foam (NEVER USE SPRAY FOAM - it will enter places you really don’t want it to get and you will never get it out in the event of a repair requirement) dampens all that NVH and contributes to the multi-pronged solution we are going for. You need to do a LOT of things to add up to removing those decibels. NUMBER FOUR - Go to the back of the car. On most cars under the rear bumper on the left and right corner areas hidden away you will find a one-way ventilation flap on each side of the car. These are interior pressure flaps that allow air to escape from the car when the doors are closed and to allow ‘used’ air to escape from the cabin as new air enters from the front air vents. BUT they usually are located behind a very large cavity that sits adjacent to the rear wheel arches. In some cars you can reach into this large empty cavity through the back hole at the rear of the small felt door/closet you find in the left or right wall of the boot/trunk - the little hidden hole you might put an emergency traffic cone or yellow jacket in for example. I discovered these cavities causes a LOT of droning noise. The noise from the rear wheel comes straight through them, reverberates and comes out through the interior rear air escape vents. FILL ONE OF THESE CAVITIES UP! Don’t fill both - you need one to maintain the ability to release the cabin air pressure remember - and often the fuel fill area prevents access to one of the cavities depending on if you have a left or right hand drive. But if you can get access to one side - fill it up tight with old rags, recon foam, old carpet that can be scrunched up - you want as much as possible to remove cavity space that creates reverb. Use anything not too heavy but DENSE. So recon foam, being more dense, is a lot better at dampening and muffling drone than, say, bubble wrap. Pack it in tight - and there’s room for a LOT of foam and rags in there. The more you stuff in the quieter you'll get. This for me REMOVED 80 to 90% of the heavy drone in the back of the car - which had been particularly irksome on long motorway journeys. NUMBER FOUR POINT ONE (!) Not essential but this improved my car dramatically - If your car is one of those that tilts down slightly towards the front end (to allow for the backend to dip slightly and the car to even out when the trunk is fully loaded) buy a pair of polyurethane lifting spacers to sit at the top of your front struts. Your garage can fit them for about $250. They again move the front end higher off the ground, away from the noise of the road. So coupled with the tyres we’re really changing how close we are to the noise of the road. Plus they make the car sit more evenly and look a lot better... SO These are my main tips for really getting to a quieter, pleasant drive. And they have really worked for me. I wish you all the best with your own particular car - every one has its quirks and every one will have slightly different solutions. It's a lot of sometimes unpleasant work, but persevere and you can get a nice result.
Wow! Super considerate of you to share this. Thanks a lot!
Agreed. Also B-pillars are cavities right next to your ears, so filling them helps to reduce road noise being conducted through the chassis.
Any thoughts on rolls of brown packing paper like the stuff amazon use?
Thoughts are it's easier to pull out instead of recon foam and maybe easier to get/ship.
Obviously it needs to be quite scrunched up to have a similar effect but would be interested in your thoughts.
Thanks, end of this year might try changing 225/55/16 for the tires in front to 205/60/16. 😂😂😂😂. Let see if less noise coming front tire area into cabin. Will also try putting those sound block of 2mm black butly to that come with thin aluminium. But will apply directly onto the external side of the plastic cover of the wheel arches. This way sound waves will 1st have to hit these sound blocks before travelling thru the plastic cover for the wheel arches. 🤔🤔🤔😂😂😂
I agree with most of this. But, increasing the sidewall with the smaller rim doesn't increase the amount the car sits above the ground. It just changes the ratio. I would definitely not recommend getting a larger wheel because it distorts so many things on your car and isn't good for the engine or transmission with the added lug.
I've done lots of private cars so I can share my knowledge what works and what doesn't.
-Wheel arches - silent only the engine and maybe 20$ of the road noise. Most road noise is transmitted thru metal - hence suspension. The stiffer the suspension you have the worse the results will be. Silencing them with alubutyl, foam and felt (closed in a foil).
Silencing the parts where the struts go to, but do it with you hood open - use polyester.
Engine cover - polyurethane foam.
-The roof - 50% of the noise coomes from the roof - airborne noise - use polyethyleneand alubutyl and a thick felt (12mm at lest).
-A, B , C pillars, cover both ends with thick 8-10 cm polyurethane foam. Inside of the pillar put a felt or thinsulate.
-NOW - the big part, the floor.
take out all the seats and carpets:
- alubutyl - 20-40% of the coverage area but it should be 4-5mm thick
- then felt - 8mm but hard felt
- and epdm rubber
You need three layers. Dampening, absorbing and blocking. Don't use foams - they are already present in your carpets for sure.
If you use foams they won't absorb the sound - jest block some reverbing sounds so it doesn't sound like a tin inside, hence we use polyethylene foam on the roof.
-The doors, some alubutyl on the outerlayer of inner door cavity, just 30-40% - don't put too much like in "big companies" trend.
Now use polyethylene with a glue to cover the area juest under the door trim. Then add felt - use an adhesive tape, and then an epdm rubber.
-Now - under the rear seat - alubutyl plus polyethylene plus epdm.
The trunk - same thing like under the carpets.
I did a loud volvo. Came down from 76db! to 65dB (65dB is the level of BMW F10 at 85mph)
That adds quite weight to your car. It feels like a completely different car. Now no raising voice or turning the volume up when driving 85mph on a harsh highway...
Thanks for sharing this, GS!
@g.s.7383 was that reduction in dBs with just the floor or with the roof, side pillars and wheel arches covered as well?
I'm planning to sound deaden my 23 VW Arteon as it doesn't get the acoustic package in the US that it does in Europe. Trying to figure out if I should only do the wheel arches or the floor or the floor + ceiling (no wheel arches).
@@jamieaygogreat video
@@KlmDetI didn’t do everything in one go. I took me a few weeks when I had some free time.
Well, the footwell, under the seats, the doors, and the trunk made an immediate difference. I’d still ad some bitumen and felt on top of the fenders - it quiets down when on wet or gravel road. Now I own a Lexus. Gs 350 AWD 2013. It’s not so quiet as everyone says. I want to quiet it down but driving at 75 is as quiet that I postpone my works. I’m in the middle of online shopping for deadening materials.
This time I’ll be dampening the tunnel, wheel arches, and under the carpet area.
I’ve done similar wheel arch sound dampening with Morel 2.6mm damp mats for all of the wheel arches. As you have mentioned the sound proofing is more evident at higher speeds of 100kmph+ . It’s worth the effort.
Yeah! I'm looking forward to getting mine fully finished!
The problem with soundproofing especially on a cheap car is for me, when you cancel out one noise, the small rattles before that were quiet are now noticeable 😂
You're absolutely right! That's a battle you'll have with most cars in general as when you start cancelling out noise, it's helpful to think of it as you're trying to cancel out a music track. You have road noise, cabin squeaks, vibrations, etc. These all form part of the track you're trying to quiet.
Thanks for doing this. The faster speed might be the higher air noise at speed. I would like to do this on my wheel arch too. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Awesome! Did you manage to do it, yet? Yes, air noise at speed is an issue I'm hoping to solve by properly insulating all the doors. Will definitely be posting some more videos on it in the future!
you have done what i have thought of doing to my toyota. thank you for sharing.
No problem 👍
😂 that sound dampening material is for interior use under your carpet. IF you want to sound dampen your wheel wells, raptor undercoating or spray on truck bed liner is best. I actually had the trunk of my 1968 impala sprayed with the stuff because of the risk of oil leaks from the hydraulic suspension system.
Thanks for the tips!
Well done on your continued efforts Jamie , I think I would have persevered with getting those wheel arch liners out to stop any drumming of the wing being a thin steel panel. Even if it meant a few new trim buttons from ebay or toyota mate
Thank you for the tips, Mike. I totally miss things like this, so thanks for the advice. I definitely need get better at looking past little problems like these.
@@jamieaygoto get those buttons off the wheel well take a small flat head screw driver and pop up the center button
Then you can remove the whole pin.
Butyl doesn’t do much in the wheel arch by itself, but it makes a great base to add more layers. A 10mm soft closed cell foam on top helps more. There are also multi layered mats that have different densities in one, which are even better.
Great shout, and yes, it is something I have begun to add to the wheel arches, although it does take a while, ha! I am hoping to post a full sound proofing video for the car shortly!
Another thing you could do is upgrade to 16 inch wheels, that would allow you to buy Hankook Ventus S1 Evo-2 tyres. they a have polyurethane foam inlay sheet on the inside of the tyre that help alot with the interior noise inside and out (if you drive with the windows down)
I wouldn't personally mess with those kinds of tires. Instead get some soft compound (new) quiet summer tires. If you want even quieter, you can buy quiet winter tires which will also have the softest compounds and unlike summer tyres - the winter tyre compound will stay softer for longer.
Good humor. I like the video. Personally I think the loss of effect at higher speeds is because at that point, more noise is coming from the wind, and not the wheels. You would have to do the floor and the front.
Yeah, good shout with that observation. I've noticed from doing the doors that mass-loaded-vinyl (MLV) really helps with this, but it's a little impractical to put on a wheel arch, ha!
In addition to soundproofing, this would protect from stones flying off the wheels chipping paint and starting rust. Good video mate, keep them coming!
Agree, but my concern would be moisture is now going to linger between the sound deadning and body , accelerating corrosion,
@@mikeg8835I'd say it is +/-0
Both solid observations!
MOT guy will definitely give You a weird look :)
Ha, this made me laugh you know. I'll be telling him that the guy I bought it off of ended up doing quite a bit to the car 🤣
You did it wrong, there are 3 types of sound proofing for cars.
Vibro: remove vibration, prevent metal, plastic to rattle or resonance due to loud subwoofer, we use this to completely remove the sound of rain drops by installing this on car ceiling.The one you install is a vibro.
Insulator: as the name suggest, we use this material as 2nd line of defense.
Absorber: this is to absorb leakage sound that slip from the insulator. Install facing inside the cabin to absorb car audio leaking to outside and install facing outside to absorb the road and traffic noise.
Go for Silentcoat they made they best car soundproofing.
Go for noisekill if you want to make it cheaper.
Watch CAS audio, they make good tutor.
Yeah, I mentioned in the pinned comment that this was done during a learning phase
Love the Hey Bear 🎵
Careful that it doesn't trap rust! I want to get some thicker tyres on my 14'' rims, prefer the chunkier look but not sure if I can get them.
I'm looking to change the tyres on mine too, so if I find some chunkier ones, I'll be sure to make a video on them.
Thanks for the videos, you're inspiring me to do the same sort of soundproofing for my Toyota. If you're going to keep taking your wheels off it would be best if you purchased a socket that fits the wheel nuts, a breaker bar, and a torque wrench. Much safer for you and the wheel nuts than the wrench that came with the car.
Thank you, and yes, you are right. I think I'll be picking up one of the electric drill-nut-thingys, ha! I did initially want to just stick to bare minimum with respect to costs, but that's gone out of the window, so I might as well make my life easier/safer if I can.
Wow that sounds realy different!!
Try a smooth or flat underbody, that should reduce air noise
Your dedication to this cause is unmatched... However I feel you may have devalued your car in the process and would suggest anyone else considering this route just buy a Lexus 😅
Lots of love!
Whoever buys this car will get the Lexus experience for about the same price. Worth it.
Certainly a valid point, but I think I'll keep my little Aygo for some time yet.
One of the other most important things not mentioned in this video is really improving your weather stripping and seals around your doors and windoes. This will vastly improve your sound proofing because sound is just a pressure wave that travels through the air and if the air itself can get in then so can the sound. A lot of road noises you are hearing while driving is also just the wind and obviously if you can seal off the inside air from the outside air then there will be less turbulence and thus quieter sound. :)
Good shout, this. Definitely will look into doing this.
Get a hollow closet clothing rod extension and use it as a cheater bar on the tire wrench for more leverage when loosening. You can stick some twigs in the space in between to prevent too much pressure on any one point of the tire wrench. Just don't use the cheater bar for tightening.
I use an extendable 2ft long tire wrench + a weighting machine. Initially I will cross tighten all the wheel nut moderately using the 1ft long tire wrench.
When 110ft lb of torque is required to tighten the wheel nut I stand on the weighing machine. Then I put part of my body weight, usinh both arms & hands, onto the end of the extended 2ft bar I let the reading weight machine drop by 55lbs.
do you know, add rubber seal to any hole that connected to the door significantly improve soundproofing than any sound deadening material you add. make sure you have no hole from the wheel to the door. thats the noise came from.
Cheers! Will have a look at doing this.
I highly recommend keeping your stock tire size. Maybe buy quieter tires yes, but do not mess with changing tire size. Also new tires should be quieter. I'm not sure you should stuff rags anywhere in your car either.
yeah, good observation. I plan on picking up some new wheels and will be definitely staying with the stock tyre size just purely to maintain ride comfort. I won't be adding rags to my car anytime soon 😂
True. I've done this and it was a bad idea. The car had understeer and overall didn't ride all that better.
A building is only as strong as its foundations! I recommend don’t jack up on gravel. Level Concrete is optimal
Yeah, it's a good tip. I think if you know the risks and try to mitigate them then it's not too bad, but yeah, a level surface is ideal.
What's up bro. I'm about to spray some dei boom mat spray on the underbody of my s2000 to try and lower road noise and maybe exhaust drone? We'll see. "Thinsulate" maybe I'll win 🤞. Keep on making some cool s2000 videos bro 😎
Strong logs would be better than chinesium axle stands.
Hello. The observation that sound from the engine becomes prevalent as you sound deaden the one from the road made me think twice about doing this on my Polo. Thank you for your thoughts.
Hey, Marius! I think it is still worth doing. What I am going to do to deaden the engine noise somewhat is to go as far up as I can in the footwell and add some cell-based foam on top of the foam that is already in place, just to see how much it helps. I have done this in a video previously, but I feel more experienced to give it another go, ha!
@@jamieaygo Please let us know how much sound reduction you can get from that. Combining the sound deadening of the hood with that of the footwell should give a reasonable result. Good luck!
When sound proofing wheel arches you need to remove the arch liner and sound proof the liner as well as inner arch
Thanks, Andy. I'll be making an update video in the future.
Will there not be an issue with the moisture trapped in? I’ve done that with all my doors but I realised that most sound is coming from underneath
Great observation and it's something I considered early on. I'm actually going to strip it out soon and see what (if any) damage there is. I've only done it like this on one side just to test this very thing. Might not have wheel arch left, ha!
The surface has to be dry before you put the plates on and you have to perfectly stick it to the metal. You should use a roller for it. If you do it properly, no moisture can get between the two materials.
I accidentally completely removed all vehicle noise by fibreglassing the undercarriage and chassis to prevent rust I have to park outside so I did this for just that purpose the cancelling all the noise was a bonus but the handling and steering also noticeable improved it was like driving a prairie wagon around corners before compared to now I can't really explain why that is except the little tack welds that hold it together are now not needed because it now has much stronger joinery and doesn't sway when going into corners.
This is cool! Do you have any experience doing this kind of work or was it a bit of a DIY project you undertook?
I had a little bit of experience after defining gravity working upside down underneath the car now I can do anything fibreglass 😀 I highly recommend it you will notice the sound drop off quarter way through all I hear is the keys jingle in the ignition if I stall I have to rely upon the gauge can't hear a thing from inside .
Awesome. Will be looking this up. have you got any recommendations for guides or anything?
Sure all the things you need are cheap or free the big one is timber slats I got mine from old bed dumped on rubbish the pine half inch thick four inch wide slats cut them the distance between ground and undercarriage make each one 1cm longer then the next and label them 1-2-3-4 this you need in reach when you're under the car you will only have one hand free to wedge the correct size slat under your " sticker" to make your sticker take a off cut from the timber put a sponge on it cut to same shape as timber wrap in plastic lunch wrap just dishwashing sponge flat rectangle type wrapped with the timber then just cut the fibreglass chopped mat into the desired shape ( can't exceed width or length of the sponge) place on-top of the plastic wrapped sponge I resin the plastic then lay the fibreglass down resin again on-top then you can push that up onto undercarriage excess resin will drip everywhere when you apply pressure with the wedges that's it your done your first patch wait till dry remove scaffold peel off the timber and sponge you should only have to sand around the edges where resin dripped and formed stalactites prepare area before just like painting or welding.
I wonder, does soundproofing the inside wheel arch had the same effect? And also, how does it performs when it comes to rainy weather?
Great questions. On the rear, I actually managed to do both the inside and outside, which is ideal if you can reach both. I'm looking at removing this from the front soon, just to see if any moisture soaked in causing corrosion. Hopefully not!
Those axle stands aren't the best. Project farm did a recent round up.
Thanks, David. This is a great shout. I had a look at the guys TH-cam channel and his specific videos on axle stands, and it's a great (if terrifying) watch. I did notice that the axle stand he tested, which is the one I have, looked faulty to me. When mine arrived, there isn't any play in the legs supports at all. Not like what he had. Still worth keeping in mind and if I ever do go under the car, I'll be following every safety measure in the book!
those axle stands was the worst tested, prone to tipping over and collapsing
@davidmcmahon I watch project farm as well every week! 😊
Should have chucked a T style lug wrench in the online shopping cart. I hate those simple ones cars come with. So hard to get decent, balanced leverage.
Awesome! Thank you for the tip. It will be chucked in the basket on the next go around 🤣
At 2:30 I was yelling to the screen: "Are you nuts? ...DON'T remove ALL the nuts while the car's resting on the wheel!" LOL
Did you really wonder if it was safe to put sound proofing in the wheel wells? I mean, it might be unsafe if you put the stuff on all of windows but in the wheel wells?
the adhesive is really strong, so there are no worries of it falling off. The only concern some people may have is that the wheel arch may corrode due to moisture getting in.
You didn't want to give a quick, rudimentary black spray to those insulating mats? It kind of looks terrible showing in the wheel arch.
That's a good shout, but I'm going to be pulling it off later, so I figured spraying it would just be a waste. If you are leaving it on, spraying it black is a solid recommendation.
Doing this today to my mk2 clio. Gonna take the liners out and do it in the channel bit on the wing. Its already got some foam in there as standard so guess its showing me where it needs to be. Shall see what difference it makes before doing the doors and the rear ones.
Nice! Have you started yet? If so, How's it going?
@@jamieaygo yep. Done the front arches and the rears. Also the boot floor and under the back seat. It all went fairly smoothly install wise part from one awkward screw. Noise wise, id say its a little bit quieter and lower in tone, not as white noisey, so appears to have done the job and makes it far easier to listen to. Put some weather stripping along the front edge of the doors behind the hinge and up where the a pillar is. Has cut wind noise greatly and now ya just hear the traffic noise when things pass so all in all, money and time well spent.
Nice! The weather stripping comment is a solid tip and something I am definitely looking to explore. Thank you!
From this video the wheel arch is partly or about 50% covered. So the drumming effect of road noises, onto the the uncovered part of plastic wheel arch cover, is still unmuted. Applied sound block so far is about 1.8 to 2lb.
I am copying what you did but starting from outer part of the of the wheel arch plastic cover!. Tapping the plastic cover with finger tips, before vs after applying sound block, indicate it the sound is only muted slightly. 😂😂😂 Perhaps it is still a good enough ROI. Regards.
I am taking it slow. I am limiting covering each wheel arch plastic with 3.3lb of similar sound block.
I am going to publish a video in the near future that focuses on how I have soundproofed my entire car, so stay tuned for that. I think taking it slow is a good approach and in general, the process of sound proofing a car is quite a huge undertaking and it really does take time!
C'mon - you can't leave us hanging without having covered the bits under the liners! Just buy some trim fork and they should be easy to remove.
Sound dampening is not the same as sound insulation.
I likely misuse these terms although it seems the car industry likes to refer to terms like "sound deadening", "sound dampening"and "sound insulation" interchangeably.
Scotty Kilmer would be really irritated that you don't have a breaker bar nor a torque wrench.
😂
Why didnt you just put it in gear and you wouldve been able to loosen and tighten the wheel bolts, +even more safe lifting the car up. Oh and by the look of it, tyre guy overtightened them like crazy, you should get a torque wrench
You're dead on the money with the latter comment. One of the wheels was so seized on that I had to buy a lug nut removal kit to get it off. Not even an impact wrench moved them!
ProjectFarm has a jackstand video and the one you bought is the worst one you could have gotten
Yeah, I've seen that video. While it may be the "worst" in their opinion, theirs is clearly broken. Mine has nowhere near that amount of leg wobble and if it did, I'd send it back.
why not do this from the interior of the car ?
I did as much as I could on the interior, but access is very limited, so this is really a must if you want the best of both worlds.
@@jamieaygo Well.. you do need to remove all of the trim, but I would expect you to be able to lay this in the wheel well as well ... I am not that familiar with the Aygo but certainly on my car it is possible.
yeah, I hear you regarding the trim. When this was filmed, it was all quite new to me so I will be uploading an updated video where I do actually remove the trim and install sound proofing on the actual wheel arch. In regards to the car, it will very likely will be possible to remove all of the interior carpeting on the Aygo, but it would be quite the task without removing parts of the dash, etc and speaking frankly, I didn't want to take on that work.
Get some good tyres instead of thoes cheep muck.👍 great vid
Are the sound mats he used cheap muck?
@@bennylloyd-willner9667 na mateits all the same material just differs on ease of application and price
Would've bought a bit better jack than that for 35£ :P
that is the cheapest jack and stands i have seen in my life, i wouldnt even trust putting my hand under the car with that equipment
Interesting attempt. BTW, I would NOT continue using that jack stand.
Some tests of several jack stands including the design you're using.
th-cam.com/video/hXzusz_eUy8/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for sharing! Yeah, I've seen this. To me, the one he is using is clearly broken. I have the exact same one and it does not have that level of flex in the leg. If I do actually go under the car at any point, I'll definitely look at some other options 👍
That sound deadening material... You need to use sound proofing materials...
the sound proofing world isn't short on semantic confusion. The clearest definition is probably sound deadening (killing vibrations) VS sound dampening (lower overall sound oscillations) and that's not even bringing sound proofing (which seems to mean the general practice of making your car quieter) or sound absorption into the equation. Yikes!
Soundproofing can get obsessive
Yep. Can absolutely see that. I think it's always a good idea to draw the line somewhere. I won't be pulling the seats out or ripping the roof lining off, that's for sure!
Kind of pointless. You have to soundproof the wheel arch lining and wheel arch.
Yeah, this was done quite early on and I have since up-skilled and completed the wheel arch including under the lining.
Ai ai ai you only did half the work
Yes, I know. This was filmed at a time when I was building my confidence. I plan to post a better video in the future!