NEW! My own Subscription/Donation service at affordable rates! britrest.com/subscriptions/ Special tools, stickers and old stock parts! www.britrest.com/shop www.paypal.me/britrest2018
ahh been there with the p gasket bolt prob! that blew my 300! Had my best earner yet the other day on a really nice 3door rrover low mileage , down on power and less than 50% brakes, me thinking brake overhaul and servo, nope was the turbo vaccuum line cut an inch offit stuff back on and total fix! ( iam overhaulling the brakes anyway) best 1989 range rover turbo VM i have ever seen, zero rust just ready for waxoyl. 50 euro for 5 mins work, happy days!
@@BritannicaRestorations big hello from Northern Ireland, I just bought myself a P38 converted to a 300tdi and went over to Blyth to pick it up…. Love it
@@BritannicaRestorations big hello from Northern Ireland, I just bought myself a P38 converted to a 300tdi and went over to Blyth to pick it up…. Love it
Good video Mike! Primary reason why we stopped using part providers that will not say where items are made, prior to purchasing from them. Cheap is cheap is a heap. So cheap often turns into expensive. "Do it once, do it right" Keep the video's coming you are entertaining even us (DCRovers) who also work on Defender's 6 days a week.
Arizona boy here, so I know about 300tdi cooling challenges. The 300tdi systems can adequately cool the engine at extreme temperatures (110F+) so long as all cooling system components are in good condition, you’re running quality coolant that is topped off and is flushed and changed on schedule, and you pay attention to what’s going on with your engine when driving in hot conditions. Watch your temperature gauge, and consider getting a VDO gauge or something similar that actually tells you what your coolant temperature is in degrees. However, even with all that, the system will not adequately cool your engine if you have a blown head gasket or a cracked head. The later problem usually occurs after the gasket is blown, coolant is lost, and the head gets too hot. A cascade of unfortunate events will occur, up to complete engine failure, and it all starts with a blown gasket. Like it or not, this is a weak spot on this otherwise excellent engine. That, and the timing belt, but that’s another story. Anyway, what happens when the head gasket goes is that combustion gases under high pressure enter the coolant jackets in the block and head and begin circulating through the cooling system. The system becomes overpressurized to above 15psi and coolant begins to be spit out through the reservoir cap, which is designed to release coolant at that pressure, otherwise you’d end up blowing all kinds of things, like your radiator. Anyone looking at this will assume that the engine is overheating and boiling over, but it’s not. Of course, if this goes on for a while and enough coolant is blown out of the reservoir cap, eventually the coolant level will drop below the level of the thermostat and the coolant temperature sensor, which are mounted high on these engines, and your temp gauge will rapidly peg out. This can happen very quickly, so beware! Eventually, the coolant level will also drop below the level of the water pump, and then you’ll lose all cooling and you’ll very quickly destroy your entire engine, not just the head. The head is aluminum and can crack and warp. The block is cast iron and is quite robust, but no engine can last for long with inadequate coolant. As I said previously, most folks will assume they have a leak or some other failure in the cooling system when they see coolant in their engine compartment being blown out of the reservoir cap, but that won’t be the actual problem if you have a bad head gasket. You can replace the radiator, hoses, water pump, heater core, reservoir and cap; literally everything, and the issue will remain unresolved because those things aren’t your problem. So how do you know for sure if you have a blown head gasket that’s venting compression gases into the cooling system? Easy! Get yourself a head gasket combustion leak test kit. They’re available on Amazon and elsewhere for about 40 USD. The kit will “sniff” your coolant and the test liquid in the kit will change color if combustion gases are present in your coolant. It’s easy and idiot proof. Just follow the directions. If gases are present, you have, at a minimum, a bad head gasket. Pull the head and test it for cracks. If it’s cracked you’ll need a new head as cracks are not repairable. Also check the face of the head for flatness. If you caught it in time and the head is not cracked but is warped only slightly, you can take it to a machine shop and get it skimmed if it isn’t warped beyond certain specs, but you’ll need a thicker head gasket to compensate for the loss of head thickness that occurred when the head was skimmed. As Mike points out in other videos, this is an option but it’s not ideal. Alternatively you could buy a new head and start clean, which is the preferred alternative, but of course is more costly. The upshot is that if your reservoir cap is “boiling over” and your temp gauge pegs out for unexplained reasons, get yourself a tester and see if a blown head gasket is your real problem before you start ordering any cooling system parts and replacing items that are probably fine. And one more thing…use quality parts! Don’t buy Chinese cylinder heads. They’re junk! Also buy a quality head gasket. Mike has videos of his success with gaskets that are actually comprised of multiple metal layers. These are better than the original gaskets because they compensate for the expansion differences between the aluminum head and the cast iron block. I’d also add that pulling a head and replacing a head gasket or the head itself isn’t particularly difficult. Get a good manual and follow the instructions methodically. A Haynes Manual will do. Don’t skimp on quality parts, otherwise you’ll be doing the job all over again a lot sooner than you would like.
Pretty much summed it up there, and nothing much to add The MLS gasket is a must - the Victor Reinz gasket is preferred - the black coating on some cheap gaskets is just painted not a sealer The older 300Tdi is almost on a knife edge of running too hot. Old radiators tend to look OK, but the contact between the fins and tubes prevents good cooling, and power washing/dropping on a hard surface will reveal the tubes are good (they very rarely leak) but the fins disappear
I noticed signs of cylinder over pressure right at the start of your video when you ran water through radiator to water pump. The top hose was visibly bulged mid length, I have had the same symptoms on TD5 discovery in Australia which had the equivalent hose split. I replaced it and next minute I had a volcano from filler tank. Lady had driven it 20km a day like that for 6 months. Thanks for the video.
Wish I had learnt that lesson about blasting out the holes with the air gun earlier. Learnt my lesson the hard way with Injector bolts on a fiesta and snapped one a few years back. Greetings from Ireland.
Britannica Restorations Ltd Well one thing that’s obvious with your videos of repairs is that you do a proper job the first time. We all need mechanics like yourself. 👍🏻🙏🏽😁
I have to say Mike I look forward to each new video that you put out but having say that if I was thinking about buying a Defender seeing the money pits that the last ones have been I think it would put me off unless you can afford to buy one in tip top condition but that is not cheap one reason why I got a Jeep.
These are old vehicles with old problems that have not been corrected properly in years - They have become a cult vehicle now, and the prices are rising dramatically, so now old restoration projects are being sold for more than I was selling finished vehicles years ago !
You can use a multi-meter + the heat gun to test the fan thermal couple switch as well (MPi Engine). The heat gun easier to handle than a pot of boiling water.
Best thing you could have done with asbestos gaskets was put them in the puddle, it probable saved you because it kept the dust down. Interesting video, that was a two mugs of Yorkshire tea that one. There is a tool you can use to smell combustion vapour in the cooling via the expansion tank. Looking forward to the diagnosis when the head comes off. Chinese head? mmm?
I think the water coming out of the expansion tank was a give away - but the customer said it was boiling over - where in fact it was being forced out under compression pressure - I suppose it looks the same
Mike mine was overheating long time ago. So I took rad in and between the top rad hose and the bottom rad hose in the rad there's a divider that the coolant goes through rad then comes out the bottom. And my rad guy found a stock toonie sized hole in the divider. So he welded it up and cleaned my rad. So what was the problem was the coolant was just circulating through divider hole 🕳 instead of going through rad and was overheating. Now no problems in 5 yrs
Had a td5 in what had gone up like volcano, looking at it it had a new gasket and new head, after asking the customer he said its been to 2 shops before us and they couldn't fix it from boiling, so I took the head off to find a perfect gasket under the new head ,but when cleaning the block I saw a patch in one of the bores ,a cracked block which no one spotted caused by the first overheating quite common on td5s
Had exactly the same thing on mine, replaced everyting like in the vid, but what i didn't find out till it caused the head gasket to go, was the new radiator was only using half of the radiator, as the other side was blocked off, but it was still circulating, just not enough to keep it cool
Just love your videos Mike. On the thread cleaning I have used a bolt the same thread etc as would normally be used but with a couple of slight angled longitudinal hacksaw cuts, when you put this bolt into the blind hole the cuts pickup rubbish and it's not as harsh as a tap...Thanks for what you do love your style of presenting and for freely giving so much info. PS tried to buy one of the flat steel pry thingey but your out of stock please let us know when there back. Cheers
If have had the same problem. at least after YEARS we found the problem. It was a piece of fabric cloth IN a water channel of the Motorblock which blocked PARTLY the waterflow.
Mike have you got a "combustion gas in coolant tester"? That's one of the first tests our mechanic will do for an overheating engine. That will save time pointing straight to a head gasket leak or cracks on the combustion chamber side of the head or cylinder block.
Yes but a new head and gasket were changed in November last and only 3,000 km if that, but when a customer says it is 'boiling over' and considering the prior work done, you think of other possibilities - after all mechanics here are 'professionals' I suspect after removing the head, they didn't torque the head correctly
Cylinder head got crack. Due to water tank damage by shock absorber. That's the time all water was drained. And the cylinder head got cracked.by over heating
Hey Mike, I really like love your video and gained knowledge about 300tdi. Last month I overhauled and rebuild my defender 300tdi. I also had heating problem before and after rebuild. The cause was thermostat. I used britpart thermostat (ERR3291) with 88 deg rated one. I think thermostat suppose-to close the by-pass line when water temperature at around 88. But I checked the thermostat in a boiling water with thermometer around 88 celsius and it open fully. I boiled water around 100 celsius and insert to thermostat housing without rubber seal and it doesn't close bypass line. I thought thermostat was little bit short. So I bought two more from different local shops. Those two were also same. I live in Sri Lanka, We don't have cool climate below 20. In my part has 27 average. So I removed the thermostat and used nylon plug with small hole(3 millimeter) and reduced the water flow to the by-pass line. Then problem was solved but reaching time to working temperature increased. But it never pass 60% of the gauge. I tried to use thermostat after rebuild and then same happened. So I remove the thermostat and used nylon plug. If there any wrong please let me know. I hope you get anything.
Interesting - I know if you remove the thermostat completely the engine can overheat Just a idea - but could a local machine shop turn a thin bush to insert into the bypass hole - but a few mm longer?
@@BritannicaRestorations The nylon bush around 30mm long and have taper in one end to stop from the flush away. Drilled 3mm hole in middle for small flow line.
Thank you very much mike.Best thing ever happened on youtube to me. I'm going to test it again. I hope I can find the problem on my own one. Are there deferent types of thermostat housings used in 300tdi. I don't have any other vehicle to compair.
Im in the same boat with mine i hope to check everything over when ive got a few days hasnt boiled over but every now and then the temp needle almost goes into the red but the sender connector does look a bit corroded so gonna start there i think as its cheap
Because water will take its easy route and the thermostat has a bypass valve built in, so hot water will not go directly to the radiator but will be recirculated and make the engine hotter
I once had the impeller come loose on a 2.5na, at low speed and temp it worked fine but at higher speed and temperature it would slip and not pump properly. Pull over and cool off then it worked again... it took me a while to figure it out. I assume the metal impeller was expanding enough to slip on the metal shaft at higher temps and loads but was tight enough to move some water at lower temps and loads.
Yes this is what I did but if the pump works when cold ans loose power when warm at least the radiator would warm a little In my case sound s like nather inside heater or main radiator warms even when gauge comes close to red
If he’s really lucky it could just be gasket- was the block cleaned properly before it was fitted etc? The pressure test puts a LOT less force on the gasket than the compression of a diesel does so it might be able to hold for the coolant test and not hold compression. Also direction of the pressure can be relevant- I’ve seen a failed gasket get “pushed back together “ by a coolant test and hold tight, then let go when compression pushed it the other way. Good luck with it anyway!
Hello,I've got a mix of oil in the water in the reservoir tank.Surprisingly when drain the oil from sump,not even a dot of water. Change 4times the cooler(radiator),fault still occurs. Advise
Definitely a csi situtation .. get the orange saftey cones n tape out .. throw all the bits over the neighbors fence n start agins .. im glad weees worked that out squadron leader.. oh and ya might wanna by ua neigbour a pilth hat what with all these mankeys n stuff .. 😁
Hello Mike I afraid I have the same pb as you Pressure un the tank and even water pump works water does not go thrue The heater inside the car does not warms ans thermostat cheked So ????? What appened ?
@@BritannicaRestorations your reply gets here faster than your videos I am ex army royal engineers I was a mt driver and worked on many landrovers its why I follow your channel it brings back memories of fixing them with a screwdriver and adjustable spanner
I was just waiting for that hose to spurt... Sorry had to chuckle - had a few face washes myself. Usually the hose or the pressure washer but I think hosing the heater radiator got me once too. 😂
Glad you enjoyed it! It is funny how there was a trickle of water coming out of the steel pipe - I wonder if radiator seal has been used in the past and blocked the heater ? May explain why there was a new radiator on it?
Checked the radiator cooling fins? - They fall out, the cores don't have enough surface area to loose the heat and the engine overheats, it's a common fault. - 23:08 Crankcase pressure getting in the cooling system? - er . . . how's that possible then Mike?
on a petrol car I'd say: running too lean. I don't know if a diesel can have similar issues? Like too high of an exhaust temp? ha.... and now I watched until the end, ooops
Possibly - but as it was a new head and gasket fitted in November and low km's you tend to think of other possibilities - it was only when the engine was started cold I realised there was a sever head/gasket problem - I suspect they didn't tighten the head correctly - part 2 will show the shoddy workmanship from 'professional mechanics'
Hey mike I’ve got a strange dilemma with my Land Rover it’s a 2.5 naturally aspirated your favourite lol anyway I had the core plugs replaced because 2 of them was leaking had them done and I’m still losing water the mechanic said it could be air in the system because the water in the in header tank dropped. I’ve been driving it and the water level dropped again I put about 1 ltr of water in and it’s still dropping there’s no over heating runs at its operating temperature once it’s warmed up. Strange thing is the waters stone cold when I’ve been running about in it in the header tank. Obviously it smokes when it’s cold with blue/ grey smoke then once it’s warmed up there’s no smoke could you shed any light or give me any ideas what it could be or is it because it’s been drained when the work was done? Tom
@@BritannicaRestorations I haven’t checked that I will do though and come back to you I just can’t understand why the water is stone cold after an hour of it running. When I squeeze the pipe from the radiator to the thermostat you can hear it in the header tank and the water level drops I might have to do a video for you
Hey mike hope your keeping well what was the end result for this motor did the customer get the work done or did he end up selling it? Mike do you have an email address I need some advise about mine
@@BritannicaRestorations I think I’d be tempted to throw a match to that engine sounds like it’s had it’s day and it’s tired good luck sure a man of your expertise will sort it
Fords and a whole lot of imports here have them = did a Ford whatsit a few years back complaining of over heating - checked the pump and there was bits of impeller everywhere
NEW! My own Subscription/Donation service at affordable rates!
britrest.com/subscriptions/
Special tools, stickers and old stock parts!
www.britrest.com/shop
www.paypal.me/britrest2018
ahh been there with the p gasket bolt prob! that blew my 300! Had my best earner yet the other day on a really nice 3door rrover low mileage , down on power and less than 50% brakes, me thinking brake overhaul and servo, nope was the turbo vaccuum line cut an inch offit stuff back on and total fix! ( iam overhaulling the brakes anyway) best 1989 range rover turbo VM i have ever seen, zero rust just ready for waxoyl. 50 euro for 5 mins work, happy days!
Did you find the problem out. I have not seen a video showing what the problem was. I saw the other videos as well.
This man is a dying breed of actual mechanics….. most mechanics that are churned out nowadays are just parts fitters…. Nice work that man
This man is a dying breed of actual mechanics….. most mechanics that are churned out nowadays are just parts fitters…. Nice work that man
This man is a dying breed of actual mechanics….. most mechanics that are churned out nowadays are just parts fitters…. Nice work that man
Thanks!
@@BritannicaRestorations big hello from Northern Ireland, I just bought myself a P38 converted to a 300tdi and went over to Blyth to pick it up…. Love it
@@BritannicaRestorations big hello from Northern Ireland, I just bought myself a P38 converted to a 300tdi and went over to Blyth to pick it up…. Love it
Great!
Good video Mike! Primary reason why we stopped using part providers that will not say where items are made, prior to purchasing from them. Cheap is cheap is a heap. So cheap often turns into expensive. "Do it once, do it right" Keep the video's coming you are entertaining even us (DCRovers) who also work on Defender's 6 days a week.
Well said!
I know you ate a guru but i love that you are a guru in the style of tommy cooper and i mean that as a high complement .
Thanks!
Mike, I wish you had been my journeyman when I was an apprentice.
Thanks!
Arizona boy here, so I know about 300tdi cooling challenges. The 300tdi systems can adequately cool the engine at extreme temperatures (110F+) so long as all cooling system components are in good condition, you’re running quality coolant that is topped off and is flushed and changed on schedule, and you pay attention to what’s going on with your engine when driving in hot conditions. Watch your temperature gauge, and consider getting a VDO gauge or something similar that actually tells you what your coolant temperature is in degrees. However, even with all that, the system will not adequately cool your engine if you have a blown head gasket or a cracked head. The later problem usually occurs after the gasket is blown, coolant is lost, and the head gets too hot. A cascade of unfortunate events will occur, up to complete engine failure, and it all starts with a blown gasket. Like it or not, this is a weak spot on this otherwise excellent engine. That, and the timing belt, but that’s another story.
Anyway, what happens when the head gasket goes is that combustion gases under high pressure enter the coolant jackets in the block and head and begin circulating through the cooling system. The system becomes overpressurized to above 15psi and coolant begins to be spit out through the reservoir cap, which is designed to release coolant at that pressure, otherwise you’d end up blowing all kinds of things, like your radiator. Anyone looking at this will assume that the engine is overheating and boiling over, but it’s not. Of course, if this goes on for a while and enough coolant is blown out of the reservoir cap, eventually the coolant level will drop below the level of the thermostat and the coolant temperature sensor, which are mounted high on these engines, and your temp gauge will rapidly peg out. This can happen very quickly, so beware! Eventually, the coolant level will also drop below the level of the water pump, and then you’ll lose all cooling and you’ll very quickly destroy your entire engine, not just the head. The head is aluminum and can crack and warp. The block is cast iron and is quite robust, but no engine can last for long with inadequate coolant.
As I said previously, most folks will assume they have a leak or some other failure in the cooling system when they see coolant in their engine compartment being blown out of the reservoir cap, but that won’t be the actual problem if you have a bad head gasket. You can replace the radiator, hoses, water pump, heater core, reservoir and cap; literally everything, and the issue will remain unresolved because those things aren’t your problem.
So how do you know for sure if you have a blown head gasket that’s venting compression gases into the cooling system? Easy! Get yourself a head gasket combustion leak test kit. They’re available on Amazon and elsewhere for about 40 USD. The kit will “sniff” your coolant and the test liquid in the kit will change color if combustion gases are present in your coolant. It’s easy and idiot proof. Just follow the directions. If gases are present, you have, at a minimum, a bad head gasket. Pull the head and test it for cracks. If it’s cracked you’ll need a new head as cracks are not repairable. Also check the face of the head for flatness. If you caught it in time and the head is not cracked but is warped only slightly, you can take it to a machine shop and get it skimmed if it isn’t warped beyond certain specs, but you’ll need a thicker head gasket to compensate for the loss of head thickness that occurred when the head was skimmed. As Mike points out in other videos, this is an option but it’s not ideal. Alternatively you could buy a new head and start clean, which is the preferred alternative, but of course is more costly.
The upshot is that if your reservoir cap is “boiling over” and your temp gauge pegs out for unexplained reasons, get yourself a tester and see if a blown head gasket is your real problem before you start ordering any cooling system parts and replacing items that are probably fine.
And one more thing…use quality parts! Don’t buy Chinese cylinder heads. They’re junk! Also buy a quality head gasket. Mike has videos of his success with gaskets that are actually comprised of multiple metal layers. These are better than the original gaskets because they compensate for the expansion differences between the aluminum head and the cast iron block. I’d also add that pulling a head and replacing a head gasket or the head itself isn’t particularly difficult. Get a good manual and follow the instructions methodically. A Haynes Manual will do. Don’t skimp on quality parts, otherwise you’ll be doing the job all over again a lot sooner than you would like.
Pretty much summed it up there, and nothing much to add
The MLS gasket is a must - the Victor Reinz gasket is preferred - the black coating on some cheap gaskets is just painted not a sealer
The older 300Tdi is almost on a knife edge of running too hot. Old radiators tend to look OK, but the contact between the fins and tubes prevents good cooling, and power washing/dropping on a hard surface will reveal the tubes are good (they very rarely leak) but the fins disappear
Thanks Mike.......'getting a prick out......not me!' Comment as just ensued me cleaning up the floor of good quality Yorkshire tea!
😂😂😂😂😂😂
lol!
Another very interesting and entertaining video. Thanks Mike. Looking forward to the next one. 😊
Glad you enjoyed it
I noticed signs of cylinder over pressure right at the start of your video when you ran water through radiator to water pump. The top hose was visibly bulged mid length, I have had the same symptoms on TD5 discovery in Australia which had the equivalent hose split. I replaced it and next minute I had a volcano from filler tank. Lady had driven it 20km a day like that for 6 months. Thanks for the video.
Wish I had learnt that lesson about blasting out the holes with the air gun earlier. Learnt my lesson the hard way with Injector bolts on a fiesta and snapped one a few years back. Greetings from Ireland.
easy done!
Good timing with Jim turning up. Your customer will faint if he watches this video and hears about the ‘deposit on a 2020 Defender’. Lol.
I have a feeling this is not going to be a cheap repair
Britannica Restorations Ltd Well one thing that’s obvious with your videos of repairs is that you do a proper job the first time. We all need mechanics like yourself. 👍🏻🙏🏽😁
Always follow your gut feeling Mike? Thanks for the honest vlog👍
Thanks 👍
Thanks!
Thank you!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Love this channel
Sorry but i did laugh out loud when you got a face full of water 😂 that’s the sort of thing that happens to me all the time 😂
I have to say Mike I look forward to each new video that you put out but having say that if I was thinking about buying a Defender seeing the money pits that the last ones have been I think it would put me off unless you can afford to buy one in tip top condition but that is not cheap one reason why I got a Jeep.
These are old vehicles with old problems that have not been corrected properly in years - They have become a cult vehicle now, and the prices are rising dramatically, so now old restoration projects are being sold for more than I was selling finished vehicles years ago !
Absolutely excellent video mate 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
You can use a multi-meter + the heat gun to test the fan thermal couple switch as well (MPi Engine). The heat gun easier to handle than a pot of boiling water.
@18.28 Mike gets a free bath 😂
My memory from running a 300tdi many years ago was that the engine naturally ran cool and any sort of "overheating" was most likely head or gasket.
From experience, it is the radiator fins rotting out that cause the over heating issues - they never leak but cannot transfer the heat
Best thing you could have done with asbestos gaskets was put them in the puddle, it probable saved you because it kept the dust down.
Interesting video, that was a two mugs of Yorkshire tea that one.
There is a tool you can use to smell combustion vapour in the cooling via the expansion tank.
Looking forward to the diagnosis when the head comes off. Chinese head? mmm?
I think the water coming out of the expansion tank was a give away - but the customer said it was boiling over - where in fact it was being forced out under compression pressure - I suppose it looks the same
Hey mike doesnt matter what you do if you remove the pump that p gasket is allways disturbed. Mite take 6 months to 12 to start leaking..
I know.....
The grease on a gasket tip is one of the best tips I've ever used. I bet main dealers never use it.
Works well!
@@BritannicaRestorations It's how I was taught 45 years ago when there was no RTV.
Mike mine was overheating long time ago. So I took rad in and between the top rad hose and the bottom rad hose in the rad there's a divider that the coolant goes through rad then comes out the bottom. And my rad guy found a stock toonie sized hole in the divider. So he welded it up and cleaned my rad. So what was the problem was the coolant was just circulating through divider hole 🕳 instead of going through rad and was overheating. Now no problems in 5 yrs
I have never been fond of these double pass radiators - I have seen them fail too
Had a td5 in what had gone up like volcano, looking at it it had a new gasket and new head, after asking the customer he said its been to 2 shops before us and they couldn't fix it from boiling, so I took the head off to find a perfect gasket under the new head ,but when cleaning the block I saw a patch in one of the bores ,a cracked block which no one spotted caused by the first overheating quite common on td5s
Had exactly the same thing on mine, replaced everyting like in the vid, but what i didn't find out till it caused the head gasket to go, was the new radiator was only using half of the radiator, as the other side was blocked off, but it was still circulating, just not enough to keep it cool
Common fault on Tdi's is the fins falling out and not transfering heat - the old brass ones never seemed to leak
Great video Mike 👌 it's not looking good. No water no oil, think she maybe toast.👍
We shall see - there was hardly any oil in this when it came in 2 weeks ago - see part 2 how bad it was inside!
Just love your videos Mike. On the thread cleaning I have used a bolt the same thread etc as would normally be used but with a couple of slight angled longitudinal hacksaw cuts, when you put this bolt into the blind hole the cuts pickup rubbish and it's not as harsh as a tap...Thanks for what you do love your style of presenting and for freely giving so much info. PS tried to buy one of the flat steel pry thingey but your out of stock please let us know when there back. Cheers
Thanks Raymond - yes that works for the taps and I have used it on larger threads - especially oil cooler fittings!
Pry bar is now back in stock!
Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike just bought one :-)
thank you for share detail video
You are welcome
If have had the same problem. at least after YEARS we found the problem. It was a piece of fabric cloth IN a water channel of the Motorblock which blocked PARTLY the waterflow.
Mike have you got a "combustion gas in coolant tester"? That's one of the first tests our mechanic will do for an overheating engine. That will save time pointing straight to a head gasket leak or cracks on the combustion chamber side of the head or cylinder block.
Yes but a new head and gasket were changed in November last and only 3,000 km if that, but when a customer says it is 'boiling over' and considering the prior work done, you think of other possibilities - after all mechanics here are 'professionals'
I suspect after removing the head, they didn't torque the head correctly
Cylinder head got crack. Due to water tank damage by shock absorber. That's the time all water was drained. And the cylinder head got cracked.by over heating
Hey Mike, I really like love your video and gained knowledge about 300tdi. Last month I overhauled and rebuild my defender 300tdi. I also had heating problem before and after rebuild. The cause was thermostat. I used britpart thermostat (ERR3291) with 88 deg rated one. I think thermostat suppose-to close the by-pass line when water temperature at around 88. But I checked the thermostat in a boiling water with thermometer around 88 celsius and it open fully. I boiled water around 100 celsius and insert to thermostat housing without rubber seal and it doesn't close bypass line. I thought thermostat was little bit short. So I bought two more from different local shops. Those two were also same. I live in Sri Lanka, We don't have cool climate below 20. In my part has 27 average. So I removed the thermostat and used nylon plug with small hole(3 millimeter) and reduced the water flow to the by-pass line. Then problem was solved but reaching time to working temperature increased. But it never pass 60% of the gauge. I tried to use thermostat after rebuild and then same happened. So I remove the thermostat and used nylon plug. If there any wrong please let me know. I hope you get anything.
Interesting - I know if you remove the thermostat completely the engine can overheat
Just a idea - but could a local machine shop turn a thin bush to insert into the bypass hole - but a few mm longer?
@@BritannicaRestorations The nylon bush around 30mm long and have taper in one end to stop from the flush away. Drilled 3mm hole in middle for small flow line.
I was curious so i did a video for you
th-cam.com/video/2SJQ48Hi-Vw/w-d-xo.html
Thank you very much mike.Best thing ever happened on youtube to me. I'm going to test it again. I hope I can find the problem on my own one. Are there deferent types of thermostat housings used in 300tdi. I don't have any other vehicle to compair.
This episode played out like a classic whodunnit book
Im in the same boat with mine i hope to check everything over when ive got a few days hasnt boiled over but every now and then the temp needle almost goes into the red but the sender connector does look a bit corroded so gonna start there i think as its cheap
Heads and gaskets on these old Tdi's are problems
As one said below I warmed the pump to check if it works and even when hot it works That is to say when turn outside inside turns also...even when hot
Wy do you say that engine can overheat even without calorstat ?
I wanted to try you think if is not useful ?
Because water will take its easy route and the thermostat has a bypass valve built in, so hot water will not go directly to the radiator but will be recirculated and make the engine hotter
I once had the impeller come loose on a 2.5na, at low speed and temp it worked fine but at higher speed and temperature it would slip and not pump properly. Pull over and cool off then it worked again... it took me a while to figure it out. I assume the metal impeller was expanding enough to slip on the metal shaft at higher temps and loads but was tight enough to move some water at lower temps and loads.
Yes, the impression given by the customer was no circulation of coolant - so check the rad, thermostat and pump first
Yes this is what I did but if the pump works when cold ans loose power when warm at least the radiator would warm a little
In my case sound s like nather inside heater or main radiator warms even when gauge comes close to red
If he’s really lucky it could just be gasket- was the block cleaned properly before it was fitted etc? The pressure test puts a LOT less force on the gasket than the compression of a diesel does so it might be able to hold for the coolant test and not hold compression. Also direction of the pressure can be relevant- I’ve seen a failed gasket get “pushed back together “ by a coolant test and hold tight, then let go when compression pushed it the other way. Good luck with it anyway!
Indeed - the composite gasket must have been acting like a none return valve - at first I was looking for an external leak - possibly the P gasket
I had a weird cooling issue that I traced to a pebble in the return outlet of the expansion tank.
Hello,I've got a mix of oil in the water in the reservoir tank.Surprisingly when drain the oil from sump,not even a dot of water. Change 4times the cooler(radiator),fault still occurs. Advise
What engine?
18:45 I'll assume you'd opened the heater tap, Mike😂
It's not a series 1!
Definitely a csi situtation .. get the orange saftey cones n tape out .. throw all the bits over the neighbors fence n start agins .. im glad weees worked that out squadron leader.. oh and ya might wanna by ua neigbour a pilth hat what with all these mankeys n stuff .. 😁
Hello Mike
I afraid I have the same pb as you
Pressure un the tank and even water pump works water does not go thrue
The heater inside the car does not warms ans thermostat cheked
So ?????
What appened ?
Sounds like you have a bad head gasket or a warped/cracked head
@@BritannicaRestorations ok but i don t understand wy my heater does not work anymore and my rad stil cold
Ha-ha, Saturday night is bath night!
Is it Christmas already!?!
What about corrosion inside the block? That could be inhibiting flow
Part 2 soon!
Maybe wrong head gasket blocking the journals causing the head gasket to fail
I suspect they didn't torque the head correctly - see part two how easy the head bolts were removed
@@BritannicaRestorations your reply gets here faster than your videos I am ex army royal engineers I was a mt driver and worked on many landrovers its why I follow your channel it brings back memories of fixing them with a screwdriver and adjustable spanner
Yes those water pump bolts break. I’ve learned to add anti fretting paste as you do when replacing those bolts as well as timing case bolts.
Right on
I was just waiting for that hose to spurt... Sorry had to chuckle - had a few face washes myself. Usually the hose or the pressure washer but I think hosing the heater radiator got me once too. 😂
Glad you enjoyed it! It is funny how there was a trickle of water coming out of the steel pipe - I wonder if radiator seal has been used in the past and blocked the heater ? May explain why there was a new radiator on it?
I had trouble before with over heating it turned out to be heater matrix was blocking up the glow
I think there has been a lot of sealer dumped into this motor
Hi you mean the heater blocked the water ?
Checked the radiator cooling fins? - They fall out, the cores don't have enough surface area to loose the heat and the engine overheats, it's a common fault. - 23:08 Crankcase pressure getting in the cooling system? - er . . . how's that possible then Mike?
on a petrol car I'd say: running too lean. I don't know if a diesel can have similar issues? Like too high of an exhaust temp? ha.... and now I watched until the end, ooops
Running too rich is the diesel version of lean on a petrol.
whats hot for a TDI300 in C?
Is the engine block water galleries blocked?
No, I suspect they didn't torque the head erectly - wait for part 2
Mike, have you ever tried a head gasket sealant liquid? I haven’t, I’m just curious.
No they are just get you home cures
Weak water pump or running out a tooth
Ask the owner if there was a man on the wing while driving ... then the cause is obviously Gremlins.
Somethings not right with a land rover? Impossible!
Got me thinking!
Would a combustion gas tester have worked on that?
Possibly - but as it was a new head and gasket fitted in November and low km's you tend to think of other possibilities - it was only when the engine was started cold I realised there was a sever head/gasket problem - I suspect they didn't tighten the head correctly - part 2 will show the shoddy workmanship from 'professional mechanics'
Block jacket sounds clogged probably just passed the pump or dodgy engine gasket next problem temperature gauge??? Confused.com
Part 2 will show how a profession mechanic put this motor together - new head and gasket in November
Britannica Restorations Ltd is the mechanic from Ghana 🇬🇭 I hear their top notch for cardboard and silicon paste head gasket makers
that green 90 seems as neglected as the white ones from the continent that can't be named
Covid stops the customer from Florida from collecting it
Hey mike I’ve got a strange dilemma with my Land Rover it’s a 2.5 naturally aspirated your favourite lol anyway I had the core plugs replaced because 2 of them was leaking had them done and I’m still losing water the mechanic said it could be air in the system because the water in the in header tank dropped. I’ve been driving it and the water level dropped again I put about 1 ltr of water in and it’s still dropping there’s no over heating runs at its operating temperature once it’s warmed up. Strange thing is the waters stone cold when I’ve been running about in it in the header tank. Obviously it smokes when it’s cold with blue/ grey smoke then once it’s warmed up there’s no smoke could you shed any light or give me any ideas what it could be or is it because it’s been drained when the work was done? Tom
been a while since I looked a a 2.5 but is the hose between the radiator and header tank free from blockages?
@@BritannicaRestorations I haven’t checked that I will do though and come back to you I just can’t understand why the water is stone cold after an hour of it running. When I squeeze the pipe from the radiator to the thermostat you can hear it in the header tank and the water level drops I might have to do a video for you
Has someone used Celit
Nope!
Hey mike hope your keeping well what was the end result for this motor did the customer get the work done or did he end up selling it? Mike do you have an email address I need some advise about mine
Turned out ok - but having starting issues now it is cold - could be down to the low compression
britrest@britrest.com
@@BritannicaRestorations I think I’d be tempted to throw a match to that engine sounds like it’s had it’s day and it’s tired good luck sure a man of your expertise will sort it
Customer was 'budget restricted'
That was a mess of funnins squadron leader..😁😎pip pips and carryon
lol!
@@BritannicaRestorations ..😁
Plastic impellers? Turn to BMW if you want to see those
Fords and a whole lot of imports here have them = did a Ford whatsit a few years back complaining of over heating - checked the pump and there was bits of impeller everywhere
Just because the water poured through the radiator doesn't mean that the lower half of the radiator isn't clogged.
It was brand new in November - 3,000 km
I’ve had a brand new rad years ago that was almost completely blocked with solder. I’ll let you guess the wholesaler brand...