Hello, I wanted to give you a suggestion about the tool you use to check the ovalization of cylinders and connecting rods. What you use is a measuring instrument, that is an internal micrometer, which is only used to read the diameter of a hole. For the check you must use a bore gauge, which, after having zeroed it to the nominal size of the hole, you will be able to find the deviation and therefore ovalization and cylindricity. Hi from a mechanic like you who really appreciates your videos. bye
The last time I stripped an engine to this degree was a rare classic Alpha and I found the best way to clean the carbon out of the top piston ring groove was to break the old top piston ring and use the broken end as a groove scraper, perfect size without damaging the groove. Oven cleaner didn't shift enough crap.
thanks for the info very good , looking at the pistons assembled question is it ok for a little movement diagonals movement at the gudgeon pin , many thanks
just looked at another video you explained it there the bushing need to be replaced , the thrust washers dropped in my engine so i have a second hand block and re do the lot has 360.000 km
Hi. I love your videos. I have a 300tdi and need to change the small end bushes as one of them has started to break up and is causing a knocking noise. In one of your videos you mentioned the problems of reaming the 300tdi small end bushes as they have an oil passage machines into them and I catches the reamer. I have noticed in pictures that the 200tdi bushes don’t have the grooves in them as they are fed with a hole. Do you know if the 200 and 300 small end bushes are the same size? I don’t have access to a good machine shop and I wondered if it would be possible to fit the 200tdi ones and cut the oil grooves in them with a die grinder after they have been reamed. Do you think it would work? I don’t fancy buying a set of rods.....
The rods on a 300Tdi are tapered and the 200 are parallel they are not interchangeable -my machine shop could not fit the bushes as he was not set up to do them - I bought new rods with bushings already fitted
Britannica Restorations Ltd I bought some replacement 300tdi bushes which came parallel, pressed them in then reamed them. Finally I filed back the ends of the bush flush with the rod. I have got it back together and so far all seems good but if the 200tdi bushes have the same outside diameter I could fit those and the reaming would have been a lot easier. Then just filed back the ends afterwards. Do you have any 200tdi rods that you could measure the outside diameter of the bushes for me?
i bought a set of brushes years ago, from memory smallest will go down about a 3/8 inch hole .. with the popularity of micro breweries these might be easier to get ( and probably more diameters & lengths available )
Love the videos, as you mention i have a 200 tdi with that rear cam bearing spun and blocked the oil port. Is there anything that can be done? Or is the block scrap? Ive had a machine shop suggested a loctite product used to lock dry liner sleeves they say will work. Any ideas
Excellent overview so far. I would be a little suspicious about the difficulty of putting the cap on number 3 conrod. Are the bolts still parallel or problems with the holes?
Thanks for getting back to me I'm thinking about putting some oversized pistons in my 300 t.d.i and britpart are half the price and they look OK. Just thought you might know because you seem to rebuild quite a few engine.
Very informative Mike. It doesn't matter using a drill in the end of the internal micrometer as you can read the difference on the scale to find out what the ovality actually is. I've never rebuilt a diesel engine before but when re-ringing a standard bore size you always get a stepped top ring set. Is that the same for diesel rebuilds? Also I'd be inclined to lob the conrod in the bin and buy a new one as it looks like it has gone through a lot of stress. Would that be a practical solution cost wise in this case?
Magnificent information, Mike. What are the chances of a crack in the block or on the cylinder linings? If there is a crack in one of the linings, I guess its a block to be scrapped?
You can press in a liner and salvage the block, but as there are so many 300 engines kicking about now out of rotten Discos, then it may not be cost effective Mike
I'm not in the UK, I'm in the Canary Islands in Spain, and 300 engines are not an easy thing to find over here. But first I'll check if there is any crack visible. I'm taking the head to get it to pressure test first, as there is no warping or bending, and the gasket was in perfect condition (not blown-up). I still don't know where the oil is mixing with the coolant.
Britpart uses a softer piston ring, some hate them but they are great when you use them in old bores as they wear in quick. When you get a rebore, go for the harder ones.
Seen them at 250K miles going strong, also seen a full rebuild done by professionals destroyed within 5K miles. Lack of oil wore it out, after the rebuild she filled it to the top of the engine as she did not understand how a dipstick worked so she wanted to prevent it by filling it to the brim. Some education and a new engine was in order.
It is called engine builders paint or sand blast finish - not sure about the UK but it sticks and does not come off after a power wash Straight onto bare metal Mike
Hello,
I wanted to give you a suggestion about the tool you use to check the ovalization of cylinders and connecting rods. What you use is a measuring instrument, that is an internal micrometer, which is only used to read the diameter of a hole. For the check you must use a bore gauge, which, after having zeroed it to the nominal size of the hole, you will be able to find the deviation and therefore ovalization and cylindricity.
Hi from a mechanic like you who really appreciates your videos.
bye
The last time I stripped an engine to this degree was a rare classic Alpha and I found the best way to clean the carbon out of the top piston ring groove was to break the old top piston ring and use the broken end as a groove scraper, perfect size without damaging the groove. Oven cleaner didn't shift enough crap.
Superb video mike, I like how you show inspection of parts for us without the experience what to look for. Very much appreciated
Thanks!
Mike
thanks for the info very good , looking at the pistons assembled question is it ok for a little movement diagonals movement at the gudgeon pin , many thanks
The rods move side to side if this is what you mean?
just looked at another video you explained it there the bushing need to be replaced , the thrust washers dropped in my engine so i have a second hand block and re do the lot has 360.000 km
Hi. I love your videos. I have a 300tdi and need to change the small end bushes as one of them has started to break up and is causing a knocking noise. In one of your videos you mentioned the problems of reaming the 300tdi small end bushes as they have an oil passage machines into them and I catches the reamer. I have noticed in pictures that the 200tdi bushes don’t have the grooves in them as they are fed with a hole. Do you know if the 200 and 300 small end bushes are the same size? I don’t have access to a good machine shop and I wondered if it would be possible to fit the 200tdi ones and cut the oil grooves in them with a die grinder after they have been reamed. Do you think it would work? I don’t fancy buying a set of rods.....
The rods on a 300Tdi are tapered and the 200 are parallel they are not interchangeable -my machine shop could not fit the bushes as he was not set up to do them - I bought new rods with bushings already fitted
Britannica Restorations Ltd I bought some replacement 300tdi bushes which came parallel, pressed them in then reamed them. Finally I filed back the ends of the bush flush with the rod. I have got it back together and so far all seems good but if the 200tdi bushes have the same outside diameter I could fit those and the reaming would have been a lot easier. Then just filed back the ends afterwards. Do you have any 200tdi rods that you could measure the outside diameter of the bushes for me?
to clean oilways.. gun cleaning rods are not common in the UK, but nylon brushes for cleaning home brew equipment are
Can you get brushed that small?
You can buy proper brushes but £££!
Mike
i bought a set of brushes years ago, from memory smallest will go down about a 3/8 inch hole .. with the popularity of micro breweries these might be easier to get ( and probably more diameters & lengths available )
Love the videos, as you mention i have a 200 tdi with that rear cam bearing spun and blocked the oil port. Is there anything that can be done? Or is the block scrap? Ive had a machine shop suggested a loctite product used to lock dry liner sleeves they say will work. Any ideas
The Loctite should work - depends how bad the clearances are
It is a pity it is expensive to pin or sleeve the bush
Excellent overview so far. I would be a little suspicious about the difficulty of putting the cap on number 3 conrod. Are the bolts still parallel or problems with the holes?
Not sure - could need new bolts
Can I bore out my td5 block have been told no I can't so not sure
You can get +20 pistons LFL50003020
Note - pistons differ - check engine number
@@BritannicaRestorations thank you for fast reply
Cam bearings might be a machine shop job, you need to ream the bearings to size after installing and the big reamers are big money.
Does the the front camshaft bearing in 300tdi also needs reaming or are they straight fit? Couldn't find any info about that.
Are britpart 300 t.d.i pistons any good or are you better off paying a bit more
I have used them in the past and didn't have any problems
Thanks for getting back to me I'm thinking about putting some oversized pistons in my 300 t.d.i and britpart are half the price and they look OK. Just thought you might know because you seem to rebuild quite a few engine.
I asked my engine machine shop about these cheaper type pistons, and they fit loads of them to stock engines (not high performance tuned engines)
I'm thinking about advancing the timing to get a little bit more power other than that it will be standard thanks for letting me know cheers
Very informative Mike. It doesn't matter using a drill in the end of the internal micrometer as you can read the difference on the scale to find out what the ovality actually is. I've never rebuilt a diesel engine before but when re-ringing a standard bore size you always get a stepped top ring set. Is that the same for diesel rebuilds? Also I'd be inclined to lob the conrod in the bin and buy a new one as it looks like it has gone through a lot of stress. Would that be a practical solution cost wise in this case?
Modern blocks rarely get steps so no need for stepped rings
As for the rod - I will see what the machine shop says first - they are pretty good
Magnificent information, Mike. What are the chances of a crack in the block or on the cylinder linings? If there is a crack in one of the linings, I guess its a block to be scrapped?
You can press in a liner and salvage the block, but as there are so many 300 engines kicking about now out of rotten Discos, then it may not be cost effective
Mike
I'm not in the UK, I'm in the Canary Islands in Spain, and 300 engines are not an easy thing to find over here. But first I'll check if there is any crack visible. I'm taking the head to get it to pressure test first, as there is no warping or bending, and the gasket was in perfect condition (not blown-up). I still don't know where the oil is mixing with the coolant.
What rebuild kit or specific make would you suggest for rings etc. I know you mentioned AP for bearings. cheers
Not sure of the rings manufacture until they get here - listed as Britpart - but made in the UK
Britpart uses a softer piston ring, some hate them but they are great when you use them in old bores as they wear in quick. When you get a rebore, go for the harder ones.
What is the lifespan of a 200 or 300tdi, before full rebuild, assuming proper maintenance, no overheating, etc.?
Very hard to say - seen them at 400,000 miles but I never know what has been done to them in their life
Mike
Seen them at 250K miles going strong, also seen a full rebuild done by professionals destroyed within 5K miles. Lack of oil wore it out, after the rebuild she filled it to the top of the engine as she did not understand how a dipstick worked so she wanted to prevent it by filling it to the brim. Some education and a new engine was in order.
Hi mike, saw the gearbox in the back ground, how did you get it looking so nice ? Paint?
It is called engine builders paint or sand blast finish - not sure about the UK but it sticks and does not come off after a power wash Straight onto bare metal
Mike
Thanks mike, looking forward to my clutch arm coming.
It will get there! Problem is is sent by Canada Post and delivered by Royal Mail
I think that sums it up - not known for speed of efficiency
Where is the part 2 on the engine video Mike
Here you go!
th-cam.com/video/No47z657F5M/w-d-xo.html
Mikw
Do yourself a favour and throw that Conrod and cap in the bin !!!!!!!!