I think you should use two wrenches when removing a plumbing item, i.e. valves, water regulator etc. One to hold the item and one to remove the nut. That way you won't turn or break the pipe further down the line while you remove the item, using two wrenches will also give you more leverage when replacing the item and it will keep the replacement part in the right orientation when replacing the item. Did you try adjusting the pressure before replacing the water pressure regulator? Turning the adjusting screw could have saved you time, money and effort. Another suggestion is to use a wrench with a longer handle also for more leverage.
Good thing that copper pipe is malleable, and was able to to twist just enough over the long run to absorb the torsional stress without fracturing the line. Watching that copper deflecting under torsion kind of gave me the willies for a bit.
@@k9er233yes, I learned the hard way when I was very young, living at home, trying to fix my mom’s sink. Twisted and broke the copper pipe 🫣 mom then called a real plumber 🤣
i second that. last thing i ever wanted was to create more work, especially in a crawl space or a nightmare secenario. My advice to any homeowner is TRY IT OUT, but if you dont feel comfortable then phone a friend who has the skillz
You can install in any direction; however, the two caps below the bell houseing (at the top in your finished "repair") is a strainer and the other is a main drain. You could have loosened the drain cap to drain the line. It is much easier to clean the strainer when its mounted in the down postion. You could have merely rebuilt the PRV with a kit ( new spring, gaskets, strainer and washers) and left the unit in place. Good on ya for doing it yourself!
A video with too much stress work. But you take it easy and make it fun. You could be raised up in the pretty good environment so you're so confident and positive! I admire you.
Wow! You’re so amazing and inspirational. I’ve had my water pressure checked because I have stronger water pressure than I need and the good news is, I’m safe. I learned when you live at the bottom of a hill, the water pressure increases as the water flows down the street.
The only thing that I can add, make sure to support that pipe on the right. You don’t want to twist and torque on one side and let that soldered copper pipe take the torsion. Otherwise, you saved yourself $500 to $800. Good video!!
Need to put a wrench on the copper fitting to the right of the PR valve when you try to remove it. It will come off easier, and you won't run the risk of damaging the copper pipes on the right side of the PR valve. Great video!
Thanks for your video. I'm a DIYer by nature, but never tried soldering copper water lines. I got quotes of $425-$675. Didn't even notice until I watched your video that the valve is threaded, not soldered right on. So figured I could give it a try. The valve I bought looks the same as yours but when I got it home I saw they are made differently. So the existing threaded copper connector would not work. But for anyone else watching and reading and wanting to try yourself, I found a really easy solution. Home Depot sells brass Sharkbite connectors that push onto the copper line and have male threads on the other end. I bought a copper tube cutter for $15, cut the line on both sides so the old valve came completely off. I had a regular Sharkbite (about 3" long) on the IN side, pushed it onto the copper line. I got another 3/4" Sharkbite male slip adapter- which is about 6". The longer slip version gives you several inches of flexibility inside. I threaded onto the valve on the OUT side and pushed onto copper line until the other IN side lined up, then tightened the large nut. There was a very little leak at first but just had to tighten all the connections more than I thought. The great thing is Sharkbites can be taken off if needed.
I am an avid DIYer not a professional so take this with a grain of salt. In my reading and learning I have encountered lots of arguments related to the use of sharkbites. One that I find compelling, however, is that sharkbites are more likely to fail in high pressure applications. If you have a sharkbite on the City side of your PRV, you might be living dangerously.
Thank you for the very informative step by step video! I’m sure you have found some of the other comments helpful (possible adjustments, use two wrenches, etc). Still exactly the video I was looking for. Thank you for keeping it simple!
My house has the same situation. The water hose outside of my house shows ~90 psi, whereas my hot water tank pipe (behind the water pressure reduction valve) has much lower. I used the outside water hose to test the water pressure while adjusting the in-door water pressure reduction valve, the pressure gauge shows no difference. (I was confused) Now I understand. Thanks for this shared video.
Great video! You gave me the confidence to go ahead with a project that's been waiting for me to start for months. I like to DIY, but am occasionally dyslexic and freeze up on 'righty-tighty'. 😅😅Showing the direction you go on all the nuts is very helpful. I also can sympathize with your level of swearing-I can't complete anything without a few blue streaks here and there. Keep up the good work! *Also, I think it's fine you changed out the whole thing, rebuilding it is ridiculous: most people never change this thing until it's rusted out and failing.
I had a laugh the way you man handled that stubborn PRV. Very determined to get the job done, show no mercy, never give up. I think I'll subscribe, can't wait to see what you'll tackle next 😉
Doesn’t matter how the prv faces. It’s a spring on a diaphragm that only allows a certain amount of pressure by. You can tighten the bolt and put more pressure on the spring allowing less psi in, or loosen bolt relaxing tension on on the spring should allow more psi….
This is a great tutorial clip. I think I need this replaced as well as I’m noticing some water dripping from it. How do I know which water pressure regulator to buy? You have a new follower 😅
Cool. But be advisee that you can usually buy a service kit for pressure reducing valves so you don't have to replace the entire shabang. Last rebuild kit I bought was $27.50. A complete new valve will likely cost you at least 4x that and is harder to swap out than the rebuild kit is to install--and is less likely to result in some other damage to the piping if you don't know what you're doing. Model # for a common Watts kit is something like 1/2-1 N45B/EZ-N55BM1 RK But Watts sells a lot of different regulators so there are several different kits out there. You need to properly identify your valve to find the right kit. (This is one reason I always keep the original boxes for anything plumbing related that I buy... receipts... etc. Also, your valve may be under warranty if it wasn't installed that long ago (say, less than 5 yrs) so check that out as well.
That wire is part of the ground that is attach to your water pipes. The PRV has a rubber gasket in it so the bypass wire make a complete grounding connection.
Good job! I had one of these replaced and the plumber had to come BACK to replace it the next day since I was getting a sound from my pipes that sounded like a ships horn sound. Hopefully it works now! But I was impressed with your work! Congratulations!
Nice video, it’s been 3 years since you made the video. So is the regulator still working? Now if you still have the old regulator you could get parts and do a video about how to rebuild the regulator.
One "trick" I use to loosen things that are as tight as yours is a steel pipe that fits over the end of the adjustable wrench. In your case you would need 2 pipes. Unless you could set one wrench handle against the wall, ceiling, or floor. I wish you could have taken the old one apart and taught us how that contraption works.
Great job, but two things. Try not to wrench down the shutoff valve because it will destroy the washer. You can also turn the water off at the meter, but another topic. Secondly, always introduce water into the house SLOWLY. Otherwise, great video and explanations. An 8" monkey wrench along with your channel lock wrench is a great combo to use.
How much pressure can you give to those copper pipes before you end up breaking a fitting and then need to call a plumber? I had a plumber come and replace mine but I didn't know where to shut off the water main for starters. If you're going to hook it up to the hot water heater, wouldn't you have to drain the hot water heater in order to hook that pressure gauge up? Could you use thread pipe sealant instead of PTFE tape?
Hello, thank you for the video! May I please ask how to tell whether the garden hose is connected before the PRV or after? My value is around 120 but indoor looks fine. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing. That is what i have the pressure is too high .. and now its dripping a little from that screw on top .. that was pretty easy to change once that thing unscrewed .. does it matter if it hangs or be on the top that cone looking thing i was wondering .. ? Great Job
Any tips on loosening a stubborn thread? Even using two wrenches I’m not able to loosen the original outlet connection. It’s tight quarters in a drop ceiling and using a hammer to nudge it is not happening.
Thank you for this whole video! I have a few things I gotta fix around the house 😒 and until yesterday, I didn’t make any connection as to why. My pressure is at 140psi as well! And that additional pressure is gonna cause wear and tear on all the faucets and appliances(!) downstream. Initially, I thought I had to replace my Temperature & Pressure Relief (TPR) Valve on my water heater. But after some research, I realized it’s more likely my whole home pressure, which had caused leaks with my toilet fillers and other places, caused excessive hammering as I tried to turn on my rear outside hose bib and who knows what else. Given how close I am to the city’s main water supply, I will set my PRV a bit lower than comfortable (but still within the recommended 40-75 psi) so when I do notice a change, hopefully it alerts me to checking or replacing my PRV. Is that a good plan? Maybe? I could dispute my own point that by setting it lower, I could make it wear out faster😅 but I feel I’d rather take an extra clue of stuff failing than letting other things fail before a realize and remember what might’ve be the problem.
Wow that was a lot of torque u put on copper line! Hopefully it all worked out seems it did. I have to replace my 30+ year old u5b watts prv and redo all connectors. Got a quote for almost 1500 to also add to replace 2 gate valves with ball valves. Just robbery so will do myself.
Great video and thank you for posting the detailed installation procedure. It is somewhat scary for me dealing with the main plumbing because if I mess up, I have no water. My recommendation is to replace the gate valve for the main shut off with a ball valve as they last longer and easier to use. My gate valve was stuck and I did not know until I had to use it one day and had to resort to turning off the water at the meter. BTW, how old was the PRV that you replaced?
Thanks for the video. I am going to have to do this as well. Mine in installed just sticking out of dry wall under the stairs in a closet though. I'll be cutting into the wall to replace it. I was curious how one would replace the shut off valve to the left of your regulator in your video. Mine free spins and never bottoms out (closes off the water flow) in any directions turned.
Great job, but I recommend using two wrenches, one to twist the valve, and the other to hold the pipe to prevent it from twisting, which can cause welding to crack and leak elsewhere. I know lots of men that do not even try to learn how to use a wrench, while I do most of the repairs myself and save lots of money for my steaks and vacations!!!
@@ChickFixUSA not at all. My pleasure. I really love the way you perform your videos as well as how you cope with tasks and repairments which aren't easy to deal with.
Thanks.. I was worried watched it. Several times , you helped me a ton ,, I knew it wasn’t that difficult but I hate soldering .an didn’t want to break it .
My regulator is leaking and it needs to be replaced. I’m definitely a little scared to try this as I’ve called a few plumbers and they want to charge $450 bucks to do this. Seems a bit expensive for something that seems so simple to do.
Why not first try to adjust the PRV? And, why not first clean the bell. RE - copper wire ... meant as a jumper for the #4 ground wire from electrical panel because the PRV may not be considered an adequate means to transfer power in an emergency. ... also recommend she replace ALL house gate valves with 90 degree ball valves. Don't forget under sinks and all toilets. Use SS braided wraps - never the plastic/translucent cheapies! No wrench comment, but, with one wrench a risky road! On the plus--very well done video!
I think the video should have started off by mentioning this project is only necessary if your PRV is broken. For most people, if the pressure is too low or high, you simply need to adjust the PRV by turning the screw to the right place.
Using the channel locks to turn off that gate valve on the left was probably a no-no. I've overtightened those before in response to a slow drip, but it actually makes it worse. You likely cracked the plate in there that has the o-ring and now it will never seal.
All I want to know is which way to turn it to decrease the pressure I don't want to turn the regulator knob in the wrong direction right off the bat because it's already high I'm gonna blow something apart you say turn it up or down as you need it well what the h*** does that help?!
thanks for the video alot of guys worried to death about tightening with 2 wrenches lol. sure that's good but more single women have to do their own home maintenance and it isn't rocket science ! We girls need to be raised to take care of ourselves so more power to you lady! Agonizing over little details and shortcuts maybe are meant as constructive criticism. Practice makes perfect or nothing would ever get done in the world. Tired of raised eyebrows and condescending attitudes when at auto parts or hardware stores. I don't have the extra money to throw away on simple repairs and wouldn't if I was rich either. I like to know how things work. If the guy across street can rebuild carb and is barely hitting 3 digit IQ why the hell can't I? Ok, that's not accurate I bought a $15 carb online.
Well, I'm not a plumber, so I wouldn't want to try to assess this issue here. But it it's leaking, you definitely want to do something about it soon. I don't think it would "burst" but it definitely shouldn't be leaking. Where exactly is it leaking from? One of the spots where it's connected to the pipe? If so, you could try tightening it.
No they won't. Depending on the model, you can repair them or replace them. The model this lady took down was repairable with a kit. She then replaced it with the same repairable model. $66 for the non- repairable, and $120 for the repairable model.
@ChickFixUSA. This is good to see, including your verbal expression when the connection was so tight. That made me laugh and was very real. However, as someone else has noted here, it would be good to not 'use teflon tape on the side that has the rubber gasket. The wire is to bridge electricity over the rubber gasket.' And to use two wrenches at the same time if possible.
You put it in wrong. The one you installed has clean out screens which means you have it upside down. I see this all the time when home owners and or handyman men install this type.
Ow as a plumber watching her twist those solder joints made me uneasy she got it done I’d change the gate valve to a main while at it and call it a day
Another thing. Don't ever put your pressure gauge on a water heater drain. There is sediment in the bottom of water heaters that will clog up your pressure gauge. Use your washing machine supply
One BIG Mistake. You almost broke the copper pipe !!! Use two wrenches to counteract the rotation of the PRV against the copper pipe. Two big channel locks .
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I think you should use two wrenches when removing a plumbing item, i.e. valves, water regulator etc. One to hold the item and one to remove the nut. That way you won't turn or break the pipe further down the line while you remove the item, using two wrenches will also give you more leverage when replacing the item and it will keep the replacement part in the right orientation when replacing the item. Did you try adjusting the pressure before replacing the water pressure regulator? Turning the adjusting screw could have saved you time, money and effort. Another suggestion is to use a wrench with a longer handle also for more leverage.
You are so right Ronald H. I was laughing the whole time. But, not bad for giving it a shot Lady 😁🤣😂
Good thing that copper pipe is malleable, and was able to to twist just enough over the long run to absorb the torsional stress without fracturing the line. Watching that copper deflecting under torsion kind of gave me the willies for a bit.
Thanks so much for sharing!
@@k9er233yes, I learned the hard way when I was very young, living at home, trying to fix my mom’s sink. Twisted and broke the copper pipe 🫣 mom then called a real plumber 🤣
i second that. last thing i ever wanted was to create more work, especially in a crawl space or a nightmare secenario. My advice to any homeowner is TRY IT OUT, but if you dont feel comfortable then phone a friend who has the skillz
Just got a quote for of $650 to replace the pressure valve. You have me the confidence to attempt this with my sons muscles
I got two bids for $1500 and the valve is easily accessible outside.
You can install in any direction; however, the two caps below the bell houseing (at the top in your finished "repair") is a strainer and the other is a main drain. You could have loosened the drain cap to drain the line. It is much easier to clean the strainer when its mounted in the down postion. You could have merely rebuilt the PRV with a kit ( new spring, gaskets, strainer and washers) and left the unit in place. Good on ya for doing it yourself!
A video with too much stress work. But you take it easy and make it fun. You could be raised up in the pretty good environment so you're so confident and positive! I admire you.
As a fellow plumber in the Apprenticeship program,Good Job.
Wow! You’re so amazing and inspirational. I’ve had my water pressure checked because I have stronger water pressure than I need and the good news is, I’m safe. I learned when you live at the bottom of a hill, the water pressure increases as the water flows down the street.
Using 2 wrenches, backup wrench, both pointing opposite ways helps with the leverage to screw out the valve.
Great video!
two wrenches is an absolute must for doing plumbing work!
@@expertexley Especially with NatGas, those iron pipes can be really stubborn!
The only thing that I can add, make sure to support that pipe on the right. You don’t want to twist and torque on one side and let that soldered copper pipe take the torsion. Otherwise, you saved yourself $500 to $800. Good video!!
You posted this just at the right time because I just discovered I need to replace mine.
Need to put a wrench on the copper fitting to the right of the PR valve when you try to remove it. It will come off easier, and you won't run the risk of damaging the copper pipes on the right side of the PR valve. Great video!
Thanks for your video. I'm a DIYer by nature, but never tried soldering copper water lines. I got quotes of $425-$675. Didn't even notice until I watched your video that the valve is threaded, not soldered right on. So figured I could give it a try. The valve I bought looks the same as yours but when I got it home I saw they are made differently. So the existing threaded copper connector would not work. But for anyone else watching and reading and wanting to try yourself, I found a really easy solution. Home Depot sells brass Sharkbite connectors that push onto the copper line and have male threads on the other end. I bought a copper tube cutter for $15, cut the line on both sides so the old valve came completely off. I had a regular Sharkbite (about 3" long) on the IN side, pushed it onto the copper line. I got another 3/4" Sharkbite male slip adapter- which is about 6". The longer slip version gives you several inches of flexibility inside. I threaded onto the valve on the OUT side and pushed onto copper line until the other IN side lined up, then tightened the large nut. There was a very little leak at first but just had to tighten all the connections more than I thought. The great thing is Sharkbites can be taken off if needed.
I am an avid DIYer not a professional so take this with a grain of salt. In my reading and learning I have encountered lots of arguments related to the use of sharkbites. One that I find compelling, however, is that sharkbites are more likely to fail in high pressure applications. If you have a sharkbite on the City side of your PRV, you might be living dangerously.
This was a pleasant and refreshing video. I certainly have a better understanding of a PRV.
Thank you for the very informative step by step video!
I’m sure you have found some of the other comments helpful (possible adjustments, use two wrenches, etc).
Still exactly the video I was looking for. Thank you for keeping it simple!
My house has the same situation. The water hose outside of my house shows ~90 psi, whereas my hot water tank pipe (behind the water pressure reduction valve) has much lower. I used the outside water hose to test the water pressure while adjusting the in-door water pressure reduction valve, the pressure gauge shows no difference. (I was confused) Now I understand. Thanks for this shared video.
Great video! You gave me the confidence to go ahead with a project that's been waiting for me to start for months. I like to DIY, but am occasionally dyslexic and freeze up on 'righty-tighty'. 😅😅Showing the direction you go on all the nuts is very helpful. I also can sympathize with your level of swearing-I can't complete anything without a few blue streaks here and there. Keep up the good work! *Also, I think it's fine you changed out the whole thing, rebuilding it is ridiculous: most people never change this thing until it's rusted out and failing.
You saved me alot of heartache. I'll post again after I test and change.I definitely like the straight to the point video. 👍
I had a laugh the way you man handled that stubborn PRV. Very determined to get the job done, show no mercy, never give up. I think I'll subscribe, can't wait to see what you'll tackle next 😉
Doesn’t matter how the prv faces. It’s a spring on a diaphragm that only allows a certain amount of pressure by. You can tighten the bolt and put more pressure on the spring allowing less psi in, or loosen bolt relaxing tension on on the spring should allow more psi….
As long as flow is correct way.
You just earned yourself a Sub!!! Great job! I was just quoted $1000 to install one of these things. Im pretty sure I can't install one though.
This is a great tutorial clip. I think I need this replaced as well as I’m noticing some water dripping from it. How do I know which water pressure regulator to buy? You have a new follower 😅
Cool. But be advisee that you can usually buy a service kit for pressure reducing valves so you don't have to replace the entire shabang. Last rebuild kit I bought was $27.50. A complete new valve will likely cost you at least 4x that and is harder to swap out than the rebuild kit is to install--and is less likely to result in some other damage to the piping if you don't know what you're doing. Model # for a common Watts kit is something like 1/2-1 N45B/EZ-N55BM1 RK But Watts sells a lot of different regulators so there are several different kits out there. You need to properly identify your valve to find the right kit. (This is one reason I always keep the original boxes for anything plumbing related that I buy... receipts... etc. Also, your valve may be under warranty if it wasn't installed that long ago (say, less than 5 yrs) so check that out as well.
That wire is part of the ground that is attach to your water pipes. The PRV has a rubber gasket in it so the bypass wire make a complete grounding connection.
Thank you, I just replaced mine, this video helped alot. I used 2 wrenches like the comments suggested but all in all great video. Thank you!
I really cannot believe Matt didn't assist you...good job👍
When you were twisting the old regulator, I felt like I was getting kicked in the nuts, I was wincing so hard.
Good job! I had one of these replaced and the plumber had to come BACK to replace it the next day since I was getting a sound from my pipes that sounded like a ships horn sound. Hopefully it works now! But I was impressed with your work! Congratulations!
Did your ship come in?
@@squirrelattackspidy That's what it sounded like!
Nice video, it’s been 3 years since you made the video. So is the regulator still working? Now if you still have the old regulator you could get parts and do a video about how to rebuild the regulator.
One "trick" I use to loosen things that are as tight as yours is a steel pipe that fits over the end of the adjustable wrench. In your case you would need 2 pipes. Unless you could set one wrench handle against the wall, ceiling, or floor.
I wish you could have taken the old one apart and taught us how that contraption works.
Great job, but two things. Try not to wrench down the shutoff valve because it will destroy the washer. You can also turn the water off at the meter, but another topic. Secondly, always introduce water into the house SLOWLY. Otherwise, great video and explanations. An 8" monkey wrench along with your channel lock wrench is a great combo to use.
How much pressure can you give to those copper pipes before you end up breaking a fitting and then need to call a plumber? I had a plumber come and replace mine but I didn't know where to shut off the water main for starters. If you're going to hook it up to the hot water heater, wouldn't you have to drain the hot water heater in order to hook that pressure gauge up? Could you use thread pipe sealant instead of PTFE tape?
Hello, thank you for the video! May I please ask how to tell whether the garden hose is connected before the PRV or after? My value is around 120 but indoor looks fine. Thank you!
Just curious, what made you have to replace it anyway?? Was it a fog horn noise??
Thanks for sharing. That is what i have the pressure is too high .. and now its dripping a little from that screw on top .. that was pretty easy to change once that thing unscrewed .. does it matter if it hangs or be on the top that cone looking thing i was wondering .. ? Great Job
I swear your bravery is goals. ❤️
Any tips on loosening a stubborn thread? Even using two wrenches I’m not able to loosen the original outlet connection. It’s tight quarters in a drop ceiling and using a hammer to nudge it is not happening.
What about using some WD40? Just spray carefully and let it sit for ten minutes and then try and loosen again.
Thank you for this whole video! I have a few things I gotta fix around the house 😒 and until yesterday, I didn’t make any connection as to why. My pressure is at 140psi as well! And that additional pressure is gonna cause wear and tear on all the faucets and appliances(!) downstream. Initially, I thought I had to replace my Temperature & Pressure Relief (TPR) Valve on my water heater. But after some research, I realized it’s more likely my whole home pressure, which had caused leaks with my toilet fillers and other places, caused excessive hammering as I tried to turn on my rear outside hose bib and who knows what else. Given how close I am to the city’s main water supply, I will set my PRV a bit lower than comfortable (but still within the recommended 40-75 psi) so when I do notice a change, hopefully it alerts me to checking or replacing my PRV.
Is that a good plan? Maybe? I could dispute my own point that by setting it lower, I could make it wear out faster😅 but I feel I’d rather take an extra clue of stuff failing than letting other things fail before a realize and remember what might’ve be the problem.
Wow that was a lot of torque u put on copper line! Hopefully it all worked out seems it did. I have to replace my 30+ year old u5b watts prv and redo all connectors. Got a quote for almost 1500 to also add to replace 2 gate valves with ball valves. Just robbery so will do myself.
Good video! Now to change mine out. Thanks for this video 👊
The wire is a ground to create a bond between the ground and the pipe at the street, to the pipe passing the preassure reducing valve.
I love how she does this, I swear she sounds like me! 😂 I feel ya girl, I'm going to have to do the exact same thing, thank you for this!❤
the wire may be a ground connection
Great video and thank you for posting the detailed installation procedure. It is somewhat scary for me dealing with the main plumbing because if I mess up, I have no water. My recommendation is to replace the gate valve for the main shut off with a ball valve as they last longer and easier to use. My gate valve was stuck and I did not know until I had to use it one day and had to resort to turning off the water at the meter. BTW, how old was the PRV that you replaced?
It was original to the house, so 18+ years. Thanks for watching, and I'm really glad you found it helpful!
Great video! I think you have better skills than me!😢😊😊😊
thanks for the comment! If I do, it's only because I push myself, and try to learn from my mistakes. And trust me, many are made. 😆
Thanks for the video. I am going to have to do this as well. Mine in installed just sticking out of dry wall under the stairs in a closet though. I'll be cutting into the wall to replace it. I was curious how one would replace the shut off valve to the left of your regulator in your video. Mine free spins and never bottoms out (closes off the water flow) in any directions turned.
Thank you that was just the info I needed.
Good way to twist the solder joints loose. Use two wrenches.
Great job, but I recommend using two wrenches, one to twist the valve, and the other to hold the pipe to prevent it from twisting, which can cause welding to crack and leak elsewhere.
I know lots of men that do not even try to learn how to use a wrench, while I do most of the repairs myself and save lots of money for my steaks and vacations!!!
Mine just went and now I’m going to replace myself 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
You are amazing!! What else can I say? 👌👌👌👌
Nice work.
Oh there's so much more 🤣 thanks for the comment!
@@ChickFixUSA not at all. My pleasure. I really love the way you perform your videos as well as how you cope with tasks and repairments which aren't easy to deal with.
ChickFix USA - that wire you are referring to at 3:16 is the jumper wire for the ground.
Yes, I actually talk about that at around 6:35. But I appreciate the tip, and thanks for watching and commenting!
That's exactly what she needs to do. Use another pipe wrench for leverage, she was lucky that didn't twist the pipe and caused more repairs
Thank you 🙏. Will do it this week.
Thanks.. I was worried watched it. Several times , you helped me a ton ,, I knew it wasn’t that difficult but I hate soldering .an didn’t want to break it .
Thanks for watching! admittedly, this one was a little scary.
I had the same trouble getting the last fittings loose as you did . I took torch an heated it up . To get it turn loose . Thanks again .
My regulator is leaking and it needs to be replaced. I’m definitely a little scared to try this as I’ve called a few plumbers and they want to charge $450 bucks to do this. Seems a bit expensive for something that seems so simple to do.
Why not first try to adjust the PRV? And, why not first clean the bell. RE - copper wire ... meant as a jumper for the #4 ground wire from electrical panel because the PRV may not be considered an adequate means to transfer power in an emergency. ... also recommend she replace ALL house gate valves with 90 degree ball valves. Don't forget under sinks and all toilets. Use SS braided wraps - never the plastic/translucent cheapies! No wrench comment, but, with one wrench a risky road! On the plus--very well done video!
Thanks for the tips and the kind words!
This lady is awesome. ❤
Wish my wife was like youuu. We would have so much fun working on our house together
I’m about to attempt this too so thanks for the vid! Good job!
I think the video should have started off by mentioning this project is only necessary if your PRV is broken.
For most people, if the pressure is too low or high, you simply need to adjust the PRV by turning the screw to the right place.
I do get to that around the seventh minute, but you have a good point: it might have been better if I had said that earlier.
Using the channel locks to turn off that gate valve on the left was probably a no-no. I've overtightened those before in response to a slow drip, but it actually makes it worse. You likely cracked the plate in there that has the o-ring and now it will never seal.
Well let's hope not. This was done months ago, and so far I haven't had any leaks. Let's hope that keeps up.
@@ChickFixUSA Fingers crossed!
Those gate valves are the worst. I prefer the quarter turn style
@@nateanth it's not a gate valve but a globe valve.
@@trentvlak Doesn't matter if it's a gate or globe valve, a quarter turn is still a better used valve in applications needed for a shutoff valve
You did great. love your spirit.
That wire is to ground any electrical current moving through the copper it’s called electrolysis
Easy Peasy! Thanks for your video.
All I want to know is which way to turn it to decrease the pressure I don't want to turn the regulator knob in the wrong direction right off the bat because it's already high I'm gonna blow something apart you say turn it up or down as you need it well what the h*** does that help?!
Have you had any issues installing the PRV upside down? I just installed a new one but the PRV ended up horizontally
None at all. I've seen them installed all kinds of ways. I don't think it matters
Thank you, I really like your work
Great job, I hope to see more plumbing work!
I love your channel!
Nice repair I like it
thanks for the video alot of guys worried to death about tightening with 2 wrenches lol. sure that's good but more single women have to do their own home maintenance and it isn't rocket science ! We girls need to be raised to take care of ourselves so more power to you lady! Agonizing over little details and shortcuts maybe are meant as constructive criticism. Practice makes perfect or nothing would ever get done in the world.
Tired of raised eyebrows and condescending attitudes when at auto parts or hardware stores. I don't have the extra money to throw away on simple repairs and wouldn't if I was rich either. I like to know how things work. If the guy across street can rebuild carb and is barely hitting 3 digit IQ why the hell can't I? Ok, that's not accurate I bought a $15 carb online.
^ This. Well said.
I liked it even more when the DIYer started to take the pressure regulator valve apart to see why it stopped working properly.
Just discovered mine is leaking. Is this an emergency? Will they burst?
Well, I'm not a plumber, so I wouldn't want to try to assess this issue here. But it it's leaking, you definitely want to do something about it soon. I don't think it would "burst" but it definitely shouldn't be leaking. Where exactly is it leaking from? One of the spots where it's connected to the pipe? If so, you could try tightening it.
No they won't. Depending on the model, you can repair them or replace them. The model this lady took down was repairable with a kit. She then replaced it with the same repairable model. $66 for the non- repairable, and $120 for the repairable model.
Great work 👏😅
One chick to another: NEVER underestimate the power of a cheater bar! (Dudes use them too, just a lot sneakier than us…LOL)
@ChickFixUSA. This is good to see, including your verbal expression when the connection was so tight. That made me laugh and was very real. However, as someone else has noted here, it would be good to not 'use teflon tape on the side that has the rubber gasket. The wire is to bridge electricity over the rubber gasket.' And to use two wrenches at the same time if possible.
Good job!
Thanks!
Good job 👏👏👏
Great information
Hi, I the black arrow is 40 and the red arrow is 60 . That is good?
Seems pretty low. You could try adjusting your PRV
@@ChickFixUSA which arrow should I go by?
@@jfrancisco80 the black, but keep the gauge on there to monitor the red every once in a while
@@ChickFixUSA thank you very much
You put it in wrong. The one you installed has clean out screens which means you have it upside down. I see this all the time when home owners and or handyman men install this type.
Thank you!!
Always use a hold back wrench you'll twist the copper line
Thank you so much for this video!
Thank you for watching!
@@ChickFixUSA replacing it today!
That wire is for lelectrical ground ..
Nice job.
Ow as a plumber watching her twist those solder joints made me uneasy she got it done I’d change the gate valve to a main while at it and call it a day
Where did you get that shirt?? My last name is Caulk and I NEED that shirt in a dude version. Thank you in advance
Don't need teflon on union side.
Good job
Another thing. Don't ever put your pressure gauge on a water heater drain. There is sediment in the bottom of water heaters that will clog up your pressure gauge. Use your washing machine supply
Nice video but always hold back when loosen.
Canada forums here same idea's too. John.
you're a hoot!
Did the new PRV come pre-set so it read about 60 psi?
I presume so, because it was already at a good pressure for me.
@@ChickFixUSA that Watts PRV is factory set at 50 PSI
I wish my wife would fix the plumbing while I drink cold beer
Next time just buy a rebuild kit, and you wont have to remove the entire assembly. Cheaper too!
It looked like she was risking breaking the pipe.
She's awesome
Thanks! Right back atcha
One BIG Mistake. You almost broke the copper pipe !!! Use two wrenches to counteract the rotation of the PRV against the copper pipe. Two big channel locks .
Not bad for an older gal, although i thought she was going to snap that pipe on the right side when taking off the PRV with only 1 wrench. EEK!
You took it apart just to see inside? Hahaha, you are a curious one indeed. 😂