I quit watching at that point. Obviously has had 6 months to read the manual and didn’t even do it then. I lost confidence in his expertise and wouldn’t trust anything he says after that. Shape up Dude!
I had the old portable Dewalt saw. The fence was rack and pinion and probably the best portable fence I've ever used. When you extended the fence out wide, it had a L shaped arm that you could flip over and it gave you support against the fence while over the open space.
Yep my portable skil saw worm drive TS has the same setup along with others. Other than the saw stops safety feature I rather have my skilsaw or the dewalt saw mainly because of the fence and both have more power.
A board that extends into the open area on the right can be supported by using the ledge plate that can be activated by turning the switch on top of the fence.
I ran my left hand over my tablesaw six weeks ago, had about 2 inches of blade up in the air when my workpiece kicked back and sucked my hand over it, severed the tendons, nerves and blood vessels in my thumb and pinky, one of two nerves in my ring finger, and half of my second knuckle in my pinky. Six hours of surgery and $100k+ in hospital bills, and on top of that my left hand is next to useless now. These saws are worth every penny, I'll never use a tablesaw again unless it's a sawstop. Just fork over the cash, it's worth it.
Yeah. I grew up in a cabinet shop. I've seen many an accident. Complaincy and ignorance are major factors....the main reason I switched over to these saws is the fact that they will limit a life changing injury into a stupid one. The next challenge is to stop the behavior of irrational cutting because the saw is "safe".
@@badfish2100 Yep, complacency kills as they say, or permanently maims in this application. I've run a tablesaw thousands of times, I got too comfortable with it and it reminded me of my errors in a hurry. I've never used a sawstop before this, I never stopped to think about the ramifications of thinking you can't hurt yourself with it, I guess it could be easy for someone to do something stupid with them, that's a good point. I'll never be that way myself after this accident of course, the mighty tablesaw now has my complete and rapt attention and respect lol...
@@TheExplosiveGuy Sorry to hear about your injury. Do you mind if I ask, was your riving knife in place? As a newbie I'm always interested in hearing the details of others' injury stories to hopefully prevent one of my own.
@@froggore52 No it wasn't. It's my uncles saw (who I work for) and is one of those compact Craftsmen contractor style foldout saws made in the 60's, I don't even think it came with one.
I’ve now made thousands of cuts on my Dewalt TS and I think I understand very well what it can and can not (safely) do. It cost me $300 (with stand) and works amazing well considering that. I see the Saw Stops at Rockler and they would be at least $2K and I’m unconvinced I’d get better results from it. If my son was interested in learning some woodworking or I had others using the TS who I couldn’t supervise, I’d probably get the SS. But just me-probably not.
I got the job site pro which just that saw but newer and that turn button on the top of the fence you turn it amd a thin piece of steel comes out to bridge that gap which i gotta say is a nice feature ive had it about a year now in my small shop and so far i love it , i built a stand with drwers on it and a small outfeed table ....
Very practical and in depth review, thanks. I guess the other question about the fence extension is comparing it to other jobsite saws which have a similar feature. How do they manage the extension gap?
Very helpfull on the reveiw the thinMaterialIssue looks like a easy solution ? perhaps a Spacer can be made to go on top of that Storage compartment ? and stored out of the way on the Saw untill it is needed ? i understand the Frustration it sounds like you might have been used to having your own Stationary Table Saw like i had for over 35 years as a ProfessionalWoodworker ? for the Safety of this One along with the Versatility some sacrifices definitely need to be accepted i retired from The ArchitectualWoodworking Industry and it’s been rumored for many years that the Insurance Industry as a Whole will make the Saw Stop or a Automated Stopping Blade a Must have for the entire Woodworking Industry one day ? i wouldn’t be suprised if that actually does happen whenever the Pattent gets close to its Expireing date for Saw Stop so far as a Company they held off all the other Companies from Competing in their game i would imagine Osha would jump right onBoard
Your saw power issue would be better with fewer teeth. I use thin kerf Diablo, Forrest, or Ridge Carbide 40 or 50 tooth combo blades. If a lot of rips in in hardwood, maybe a specific rip blade.
I hear ya. If I didnt cut alot of prefinished material the tooth pattern wouldn't matter to me as much. My real gripe with the thin kerf blades, especially the diablo type, that blade vibrates way too much...that plastic filler they put in the vents dont work like brass filler. Yes, if I was ripping oak strip or some decking material...definitely diablo....but for hardrock maple or walnut no dice. I simply keep the blades sharp. But when I compare the duty rating to mybold makita fleet....night and day with power under the same conditions
Nice review My sawstop no longer tilts to a true45°, don't know why, have not had time to take it apart Also the stand seems very weak, where it curves up, had to add 2x to make the saw stand level...other then the Stop feature, I'm not a fan
To own this saw for 6 months, never read the directions, and not know to turn the knob in the middle of the fence puzzles me. There’s no problem with the table extended. Nothing will fall through if you spin the red dial in the middle of the fence to swing out the under fence to hold the piece being cut. He also failed to mention that when extended, the fence can be set to cut at 24”. I’ve had my Jobsite for 3 years and have never accidentally pushed the fence move lever. The only thing I didn’t like about the saw was using it to cut dados. You need another blade cover, another dado kit because I guarantee that the one you have now won’t fit with the separate and more expensive stopper cartridge to you will have to get and install. $ 400.00 is a lot of money to invest just to cut dados.
If you watched the whole video I said the knob works. I pointed out that thin material will sag and get caught in the opening like thin plywood or laminate. Make your own video if you think you know more about it.
my eye sight it not great but looks like there is a ledge under the fence to support wood there but it is probley not difficult to make an insert for it. how many pieces of equipment as complicated as a power sew have we not modified to make our work flow safer faster more accurate etc. some on will i am sure offer an after market one be better if saw stop provided one with the saw
I have one, yes there is a dial on top of the fence that when turned it extends a metal plate on the underside of the fence. Great saw with peace of mind too
So basically, yeah. Was sawstop ever known for being a high quality saw? It was always just a meme for people that had a fear of slicing off fingers. I doubt it would be better than a powermatic or even an old-school craftsman. I had a Bosch 4100-09 and now a Skilsaw SPT99. I do use a Freud Industrial premier fusion 40T "thin kerf" blade (P410T). I don't know why you'd run a thick kerf on a table saw and suggest it's a "real" blade, as if the other ones are not. Maybe on a miter saw a thicker kerf makes sense but you're really just wasting wood by using a thicker kerf than you actually need. Diablo blades are made by Freud and they're fine, but Freud Industrial blades are of substantially better quality...the P410T blade will produce accurate, glass-smooth cuts over and over a gain in all kinds of woods...whether you are ripping or cross-cutting.
Thin kerf blades vibrate too much and the carbide is a lesser quality. The degree of the hook and tooth pattern is critical when working with hardwoods. I own an industrial shop so maybe I'm biased, but on every peice of equipment, thicker is better and in general, you get more life out of the blade when you send them out to be sharpened. I suggest looking at popular tooling or everlast and then buy a frued blade and get back to me
@@badfish2100 The Freud P410T is 0.092" with a HiATB grind and I've never observed any vibrations, although I will concede that it is possible for that to happen if you overheat the blade and it warps (which may be easier to do on a thin kerf blade). I have cut through plenty of hard woods and MDF...the 3-year old blade is still as sharp as it was the day I got it. I can still get perfect 45 degree miter joints without any gaps after the glue dries. With a thinner kerf your saw will be able to maintain a higher RPM which should help in blade life and cut quality...and more importantly, you can reduce material costs. Two cuts at full kerf is what, a 1/4" of wasted wood...which doesn't seem like much but will certainly add up over time.
Bummer I still don't know how to turn it on. Wasn't detailed enough. And you spoke of some sort of magical safety but never showed that feature. While you claim that was the reason you bought it. One would think you'd show us.
The part that jambs the blade needs to be replaced, and the blade is ruined. Look around for guys that tested this feature extensively., filmed it in ultra slow motion… it works,… but would cost $150- $200 to show it. My fingers are worth that and am glad I have it.
there is a knob on top of the fence if you switch it, it will create support on side of the fence will prevent pieces from falling.
I quit watching at that point. Obviously has had 6 months to read the manual and didn’t even do it then. I lost confidence in his expertise and wouldn’t trust anything he says after that. Shape up Dude!
I had the old portable Dewalt saw. The fence was rack and pinion and probably the best portable fence I've ever used. When you extended the fence out wide, it had a L shaped arm that you could flip over and it gave you support against the fence while over the open space.
Yep my portable skil saw worm drive TS has the same setup along with others. Other than the saw stops safety feature I rather have my skilsaw or the dewalt saw mainly because of the fence and both have more power.
A board that extends into the open area on the right can be supported by using the ledge plate that can be activated by turning the switch on top of the fence.
And here to say the same thing. Thanks for letting others know.
He said he uses it in the video. But what he's talking about is extremely flexible stuff won't sit on the ledge and will fall down
@@nohands3255 he said 3/4" not a problem but 3/8" or something thin will fall in - I don't think he knows about the ledge
I ran my left hand over my tablesaw six weeks ago, had about 2 inches of blade up in the air when my workpiece kicked back and sucked my hand over it, severed the tendons, nerves and blood vessels in my thumb and pinky, one of two nerves in my ring finger, and half of my second knuckle in my pinky. Six hours of surgery and $100k+ in hospital bills, and on top of that my left hand is next to useless now. These saws are worth every penny, I'll never use a tablesaw again unless it's a sawstop. Just fork over the cash, it's worth it.
Yeah. I grew up in a cabinet shop. I've seen many an accident. Complaincy and ignorance are major factors....the main reason I switched over to these saws is the fact that they will limit a life changing injury into a stupid one. The next challenge is to stop the behavior of irrational cutting because the saw is "safe".
@@badfish2100 Yep, complacency kills as they say, or permanently maims in this application. I've run a tablesaw thousands of times, I got too comfortable with it and it reminded me of my errors in a hurry.
I've never used a sawstop before this, I never stopped to think about the ramifications of thinking you can't hurt yourself with it, I guess it could be easy for someone to do something stupid with them, that's a good point. I'll never be that way myself after this accident of course, the mighty tablesaw now has my complete and rapt attention and respect lol...
@@TheExplosiveGuy Sorry to hear about your injury. Do you mind if I ask, was your riving knife in place? As a newbie I'm always interested in hearing the details of others' injury stories to hopefully prevent one of my own.
@@froggore52 No it wasn't. It's my uncles saw (who I work for) and is one of those compact Craftsmen contractor style foldout saws made in the 60's, I don't even think it came with one.
@@TheExplosiveGuy ha! My dad had the same one! Motor had a flat spot in it so you had to put your foot on the blade and kick start it.
Good detailed review - thanks & nice to see real world reviews. Cheers from the UK
I’ve now made thousands of cuts on my Dewalt TS and I think I understand very well what it can and can not (safely) do. It cost me $300 (with stand) and works amazing well considering that. I see the Saw Stops at Rockler and they would be at least $2K and I’m unconvinced I’d get better results from it.
If my son was interested in learning some woodworking or I had others using the TS who I couldn’t supervise, I’d probably get the SS. But just me-probably not.
I got one. Totally love it and it performs well. Well worth the money.
You also forgot the roll out to support your piece when ripping...left side of the fence.
I got the job site pro which just that saw but newer and that turn button on the top of the fence you turn it amd a thin piece of steel comes out to bridge that gap which i gotta say is a nice feature ive had it about a year now in my small shop and so far i love it , i built a stand with drwers on it and a small outfeed table ....
Would have been a good idea to unplug it too ... -__- man newbies are gonna be watching this too, you gotta be a role model. safety first always
Thanks. I'm pre-newbie...considering taking up woodworking as a hobby
I agree. Very bad mistake
Thank you very much for NOT doing a fresh out of the box review which I completely agree is about the silliest thing in the world.
Thanks for the video. We have a smaller dewalt and upgrading this weekend. New woodworkers, and wanted something for the inevitable mistake
You’re not using the fence correctly if you are struggling with thin product.
Why did you roll back the lip on the fence to prevents thin material from falling in? I would have liked to see if that worked.
Very practical and in depth review, thanks. I guess the other question about the fence extension is comparing it to other jobsite saws which have a similar feature. How do they manage the extension gap?
On mybold makita, it didnt extend as wide so I never noticed an issue.
Thanks very much mate for your time and effort for the review on the saw! I enjoyed your video, I think I will buy one now!
Very helpfull on the reveiw the thinMaterialIssue looks like a easy solution ? perhaps a Spacer can be made to go on top of that Storage compartment ? and stored out of the way on the Saw untill it is needed ? i understand the Frustration it sounds like you might have been used to having your own Stationary Table Saw like i had for over 35 years as a ProfessionalWoodworker ? for the Safety of this One along with the Versatility some sacrifices definitely need to be accepted i retired from The ArchitectualWoodworking Industry and it’s been rumored for many years that the Insurance Industry as a Whole will make the Saw Stop or a Automated Stopping Blade a Must have for the entire Woodworking Industry one day ? i wouldn’t be suprised if that actually does happen whenever the Pattent gets close to its Expireing date for Saw Stop so far as a Company they held off all the other Companies from Competing in their game i would imagine Osha would jump right onBoard
Your saw power issue would be better with fewer teeth. I use thin kerf Diablo, Forrest, or Ridge Carbide 40 or 50 tooth combo blades. If a lot of rips in in hardwood, maybe a specific rip blade.
I hear ya. If I didnt cut alot of prefinished material the tooth pattern wouldn't matter to me as much. My real gripe with the thin kerf blades, especially the diablo type, that blade vibrates way too much...that plastic filler they put in the vents dont work like brass filler. Yes, if I was ripping oak strip or some decking material...definitely diablo....but for hardrock maple or walnut no dice. I simply keep the blades sharp. But when I compare the duty rating to mybold makita fleet....night and day with power under the same conditions
Nice review
My sawstop no longer tilts to a true45°, don't know why, have not had time to take it apart
Also the stand seems very weak, where it curves up, had to add 2x to make the saw stand level...other then the Stop feature, I'm not a fan
Your next investment needs to be a tripod. I’m seasick…
🤣
To own this saw for 6 months, never read the directions, and not know to turn the knob in the middle of the fence puzzles me. There’s no problem with the table extended. Nothing will fall through if you spin the red dial in the middle of the fence to swing out the under fence to hold the piece being cut. He also failed to mention that when extended, the fence can be set to cut at 24”. I’ve had my Jobsite for 3 years and have never accidentally pushed the fence move lever. The only thing I didn’t like about the saw was using it to cut dados. You need another blade cover, another dado kit because I guarantee that the one you have now won’t fit with the separate and more expensive stopper cartridge to you will have to get and install. $ 400.00 is a lot of money to invest just to cut dados.
If you watched the whole video I said the knob works. I pointed out that thin material will sag and get caught in the opening like thin plywood or laminate. Make your own video if you think you know more about it.
@@badfish2100 Can you clamp a piece of plywood against the underside of the fence if the provided ledge isn't substantial/wide enough?
Take a little time and make an insert but I do understand your problem. Have a good day.
Great practical review. Thanks.
You missed the magnetic doors that give you so much room to change the blade etc. No problem...just trying to help.
You don’t have extend the side table all the way out man when you cut a thin ply.
At 6:05 you are literally pointed at the switch that flicks out the support just below the fence to solve the problem you’re talking about
th-cam.com/video/jRjfWCLQqFQ/w-d-xo.html
Awesome honest review. Thanks mate!
And he still hasn’t unplugged it …
my eye sight it not great but looks like there is a ledge under the fence to support wood there but it is probley not difficult to make an insert for it. how many pieces of equipment as complicated as a power sew have we not modified to make our work flow safer faster more accurate etc. some on will i am sure offer an after market one be better if saw stop provided one with the saw
I have one, yes there is a dial on top of the fence that when turned it extends a metal plate on the underside of the fence. Great saw with peace of mind too
Great job... Thanks!
NIMBY? Only people who dont want table saws in their back yard cut their fingers off?
Add to that "high turnover". An indicator.
I know, what does a Not In My BackYard person have to do with this saw LOL
So basically, yeah. Was sawstop ever known for being a high quality saw? It was always just a meme for people that had a fear of slicing off fingers. I doubt it would be better than a powermatic or even an old-school craftsman. I had a Bosch 4100-09 and now a Skilsaw SPT99. I do use a Freud Industrial premier fusion 40T "thin kerf" blade (P410T). I don't know why you'd run a thick kerf on a table saw and suggest it's a "real" blade, as if the other ones are not. Maybe on a miter saw a thicker kerf makes sense but you're really just wasting wood by using a thicker kerf than you actually need. Diablo blades are made by Freud and they're fine, but Freud Industrial blades are of substantially better quality...the P410T blade will produce accurate, glass-smooth cuts over and over a gain in all kinds of woods...whether you are ripping or cross-cutting.
Thin kerf blades vibrate too much and the carbide is a lesser quality. The degree of the hook and tooth pattern is critical when working with hardwoods. I own an industrial shop so maybe I'm biased, but on every peice of equipment, thicker is better and in general, you get more life out of the blade when you send them out to be sharpened. I suggest looking at popular tooling or everlast and then buy a frued blade and get back to me
@@badfish2100 The Freud P410T is 0.092" with a HiATB grind and I've never observed any vibrations, although I will concede that it is possible for that to happen if you overheat the blade and it warps (which may be easier to do on a thin kerf blade).
I have cut through plenty of hard woods and MDF...the 3-year old blade is still as sharp as it was the day I got it. I can still get perfect 45 degree miter joints without any gaps after the glue dries.
With a thinner kerf your saw will be able to maintain a higher RPM which should help in blade life and cut quality...and more importantly, you can reduce material costs. Two cuts at full kerf is what, a 1/4" of wasted wood...which doesn't seem like much but will certainly add up over time.
Yes. Not as accurate as claimed, fence is a joke, as is the child's toy they call a miter gauge.
I don't work for saw stop!
For jobsite saws dewalt wins followed by hitachi
Dude killed it on review
Yea except the part where he touched the blade with the saw STILL PLUGGED UP ! HUGE FAIL
A safety saw with a safety hazard...hmm
Not a hazard if used properly.
Had to google skookum.. lol
Wet lumber won't set it off either.
6 months and you still don't know how to use all of its features
th-cam.com/video/jRjfWCLQqFQ/w-d-xo.html
Is she skookum?
Bummer I still don't know how to turn it on. Wasn't detailed enough. And you spoke of some sort of magical safety but never showed that feature. While you claim that was the reason you bought it. One would think you'd show us.
He'd have had to replace a $60 part if he did that. look here th-cam.com/video/XVktVFyid-Y/w-d-xo.html
The part that jambs the blade needs to be replaced, and the blade is ruined. Look around for guys that tested this feature extensively., filmed it in ultra slow motion… it works,… but would cost $150- $200 to show it. My fingers are worth that and am glad I have it.