I've just finished my own "maintenance monday", I've torn my bike (almost) aparat, just the bb was left, degreased it all, relubed, regulated the brakes (I ride fixed, so no need to work on derailleurs. Phew). Just wanted to thank you, as it was all thanks to Simon's "Maintenance Monday" clips and you, the tips you give in your videos and all the knowledge. It wasn't much, but I am still proud of myself, so thank you! Now it's time for a beer. Cheers from Poland!
Would be good to see you doing it with crank on the bike after the initial demonstrations. This is the likely scenario many punters will be facing and a walkthrough would be invaluable. Thanks for your excellent advice 👍
*Regarding the chainring bolts* -- The advice I follow is this: (1) Use grease or anti-seize compound if there are no creaks. (2) Use thread-lock compound if there are creaks. But, if you use thread-lock compound and the bolts are aluminium alloy, it may be difficult (sometimes impossible) to safely remove them in the future. *What am I using?* -- A 52t oval Rotor QX1 Aero 1x chainring in the 1x drivetrain of my main road bike. It's the equivalent of a 54t round chainring and it has the longer wide/narrow teeth so you can avoid a chain keeper on most road setups. The QX1 is designed for a five-spoke spider with 110 bcd and the chainring is exactly 4.0 mm thick, making it compatible with compact SRAM Red cranks with the hidden bolt behind the crank arm. It's also available in 46, 48 and 50t sizes. One of the features I like about Rotor Q-rings is their adjustability. Instead of the typical 108-degree offset for the oval, I use a 111-degree offset because my riding position usually resembles that of a TT bike rather than a conventional road bike. If the oval chainring is not adjustable, you cannot "clock" it to your specific needs.
I usually use copper-paste if there are creaks somewhere, but never had creaks on the chainring bolts. Do you have any experience there? What I can confirm is that you can have a lot of trouble you use threadlock. Made that mistake once and had serious difficulty to get them loose again.
A really helpful video there, like you say not something that you would need to do all that often but always useful to know what your doing. I think you didn't really stress enough how important it is to have those bolts greesed up... trying to get an old chainring off when the bolts are totally seazed is no fun at all! Found that trying to find the correct diameter for chainrings can be a bit tricky, especially when there a model which a few years old but thankfully 130 seems to be a fairly common one... except until you come to a inner ring on a tripple! ha ha the fun. Thanks and keep it up!
Very helpful. Wish you had produced this before I changed my big ring last year as would have saved me time and puzzle over the pin that goes behind the crank and not mentioned on any other TH-cam video that I watched! Obvious when you know how!
Lots of useful information, clearly presented. Unfortunately it didn't mention that pesky fifth bolt behind the crankarm - mine is different from the other four, and I can't work out how to get the outer, female, threaded part out of the chain ring to put onto the replacement. Any tips, gratefully received.
Can I install mid compact chain rings with any rear cogs arrangement? Can you please give a guide on that and what fits with what? Thanks and great content btw
Hi Jon, I would like to replace my 50T chainring on my 105 R7000 crank for a 46T Ultegra chainring (because this is my gravelbike and 50 is just not needed). Can I just replace them like for like or should I shorten the chain and/or re-align the front derailler (if so, only the top screw?)?
Hi Jon. I currently run a 6700 with 53/39. Because of my riding style (North Yorks moors) the inner ring is the one showing signs of wear. Can if fit a 34T? What are the implications? PS I too have a TAG F1 - same colouring as yours, though I take mine off before I do any work on the bike.
What is the usual torque setting for, say... a Dura Ace chain ring? I'm thinking of changing from Ultegra semi compact to Dura Ace compact or changing cassette. I built my Litespeed about 7 years ago and went 52 36 up front and 11-25 cassette, all Ultegra. Now, regrets. I'm 55 years old now. I used to mash with no problems. Now my Litespeed I keep on my wall (stand like a trophy). The gearing wears me out in hilly Washington state. I rarely used 52-11. Should I change cassette or chainring? I'd like to go Dura Ace. Is it easy bolt off bolt on without taking off cranks? I'm a newb in this regard. I think it was 110 spider, not sure but I know it was the 6800 groupo. Thoughts? I don't race, just ride casual but I like to go far.
I have a double 10 speed 36/22t chainset and the larger 36t chainring is worn out and needs changing. Can i buy any 36t chainring with the same bcd and put it on? Thanks
I've genuinely just replaced my big chain ring 6 hours ago. This video would have been slightly useful as I replaced my Tiagra FC-4500 52B with a 105 52B. It doesn't match up perfectly with the pedal (the tiagra was slightly wider next to the bolts) but it works like a charm. I've replaced my groupset and chain two days ago and the chain would "jump" when I applied too much force, so that was a good indicator that the chain ring had to go as well.
Garth Garthly straight forward as long as BCD is the same. Only consideration is chain length and if you went back to 53/39, moving the front derailleur up
FWIW, the pro teams are doing this on occasion (52-34 chainring combos). Apparently the concern is not so much the larger jump in tooth differential, but the potential for interference when in a cross-chained position (presumably 34-11), a mix pros wouldn't use.
On thing they don't tell you in all these videos is that you may have to use a crank-puller in order to get the pedal arm off. I have to use it every time for my new Trek bike.
A timely video, I’m just replacing mine, but sadly the bolts have had it. Jon please tell me that standard countersunk M8-10mm length bolts will fit a Campagnolo chainring (pre 2011, before they screwed directly into the carbon) I’ve checked the measurements and I’m pretty sure they’re the same as the original, vastly overpriced, and difficult to track down campagnolo bolts!
Hi folks I wonder if you could really help me out I’m looking to get a road bike from Decathalon ULTRA 900 I couldn’t get much information on that site amazing customer service guy said it’s a very good bike with superlightweight I’m just trying to work out what the biggest gearset I could most probably put onto the bike when I purchase it.
Jon, i DID have a properly tighten bolt come lose (half of it fell), it took me awhile to find out where the rattling was coming from, being the hidden bolt took even longer to find the culprit...
Testing for worn Chainrings. There is the chain lift test, a new chain wrapped around a chain ring will lift up a worn chain ring but not on a new Chainring.
Hi guys. I have a shimano sora 9 speed compact chainset with 11-28t at the back can I just simply interchange this to an 11-30t without needing a new derailleur or chain? (Nearly died on a hill last week 😂)
Your comments about aligning the maker's mark to the crank arm do not help if the chainring does NOT have maker's alignment marks. So, for a 3-ring crank set, where should the shifter pins be orientated for best results, for the middle and big rings?
Careful with the peg spanner! It's very easy to have your hand slip as you tight the bolt with the other hand. When your hand slips, it always slips directly to the sharp teeths of the chainring.
Hi, thanks for the content you produce. I really enjoy it. I run a 50-34 chainset on a 11speed 11-29 cassette. I am thinking of changing my 50 to a 52. Would this bring me problems? The chain is sized to the 34-11, I should not add more links there. Is there any risk to break the rear derailleur? I would have to adjust the front derailleur, but would it still work fine? Thanks again!
Being a heavy boi sucks. you have to worry about the fatique and wear of your bike more so than people who are lighter. im 175lbs and notice that my tires, chain (drivetrain in general), bottom bracket, and the frame will wear out so much faster and therefore cost more money than my
Im over 200lbs and i go through a bb every 6 months or so. And I've ruined a frame by wearing out the threads on bb shell. Sad reacts to the death of my specialized allez 2010 we had a good run.
I wish this video shows every step, from removing the crank arm from the bottom bracket. This video assumes that crank arm removal was magically done somehow.
Easy to assemble th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA but I still took it to a bike shop to have it looked over for safety; overall bike is quite sturdy and rides super smooth through shifting. I'm definitely in love with this bike and am so glad I decided to make this purchase. Sizing was perfect for me (I got the 53" and I'm 5'9" 210 lbs) and it's light weight. Seat is solid, good quality. Shifting levers do require some practice, but I definitely got the hang of how much pressure to apply after a few mins riding. I would highly recommend for a beginner bike if you are Iooking for quality on a budget.
What sizes chainrings do you use? 👇
GCN Tech 42/54T chainrings, but I sadly live somewhere that doesn't even have a hill in sight let alone a mountain.
Just switched to a 53/39 cannondale opi spidering 😎
46/36 - 46 for paved surfaces, 36 for rougher surfaces
50/34 Shimano SG-X
53/39 for the last 12 years but switching to compact 50/34 in a few months
I've just finished my own "maintenance monday", I've torn my bike (almost) aparat, just the bb was left, degreased it all, relubed, regulated the brakes (I ride fixed, so no need to work on derailleurs. Phew). Just wanted to thank you, as it was all thanks to Simon's "Maintenance Monday" clips and you, the tips you give in your videos and all the knowledge. It wasn't much, but I am still proud of myself, so thank you! Now it's time for a beer. Cheers from Poland!
Nice work 🍺
Jon, it would be very helpfull to show a fully worn chain ring next to a half worn and a new one.
In that way viewers would really understand.
Jan Willem Kuilenburg good idea
Would be good to see you doing it with crank on the bike after the initial demonstrations. This is the likely scenario many punters will be facing and a walkthrough would be invaluable.
Thanks for your excellent advice 👍
Who else misses Jon's tech talks?
*Regarding the chainring bolts* -- The advice I follow is this: (1) Use grease or anti-seize compound if there are no creaks. (2) Use thread-lock compound if there are creaks. But, if you use thread-lock compound and the bolts are aluminium alloy, it may be difficult (sometimes impossible) to safely remove them in the future.
*What am I using?* -- A 52t oval Rotor QX1 Aero 1x chainring in the 1x drivetrain of my main road bike. It's the equivalent of a 54t round chainring and it has the longer wide/narrow teeth so you can avoid a chain keeper on most road setups. The QX1 is designed for a five-spoke spider with 110 bcd and the chainring is exactly 4.0 mm thick, making it compatible with compact SRAM Red cranks with the hidden bolt behind the crank arm. It's also available in 46, 48 and 50t sizes. One of the features I like about Rotor Q-rings is their adjustability. Instead of the typical 108-degree offset for the oval, I use a 111-degree offset because my riding position usually resembles that of a TT bike rather than a conventional road bike. If the oval chainring is not adjustable, you cannot "clock" it to your specific needs.
I usually use copper-paste if there are creaks somewhere, but never had creaks on the chainring bolts. Do you have any experience there? What I can confirm is that you can have a lot of trouble you use threadlock. Made that mistake once and had serious difficulty to get them loose again.
I'm running a Shimano 105 52-39 (5600 series) up front with 11-32 (5800 series) on the back. The derailleurs are 5800 series which works great.
Could you do a video on how to upgrade from cable discs to hydraulic discs, Love the work!
A really helpful video there, like you say not something that you would need to do all that often but always useful to know what your doing. I think you didn't really stress enough how important it is to have those bolts greesed up... trying to get an old chainring off when the bolts are totally seazed is no fun at all! Found that trying to find the correct diameter for chainrings can be a bit tricky, especially when there a model which a few years old but thankfully 130 seems to be a fairly common one... except until you come to a inner ring on a tripple! ha ha the fun. Thanks and keep it up!
Cheers John!
Thanks for a great videos. I liked the details and description of the tools needed.
Very helpful. Wish you had produced this before I changed my big ring last year as would have saved me time and puzzle over the pin that goes behind the crank and not mentioned on any other TH-cam video that I watched! Obvious when you know how!
Thanks Leslie, glad you found it useful
Lots of useful information, clearly presented. Unfortunately it didn't mention that pesky fifth bolt behind the crankarm - mine is different from the other four, and I can't work out how to get the outer, female, threaded part out of the chain ring to put onto the replacement. Any tips, gratefully received.
This channel is a god send fir bikers
I throw worn and sharp chainrings Shinobi style at end of level baddies.
I love the Park Tool pizza cutter on the peg board!
Nice info, do I need special tool for replacing chainring on FC-7800 ? thanks
Can I install mid compact chain rings with any rear cogs arrangement? Can you please give a guide on that and what fits with what? Thanks and great content btw
Thanks, Jon, nice presentation. But what do mean about the hassle of measuring? We're GCN Tech fans. There is pleasure in measuring.
Hi Jon, I would like to replace my 50T chainring on my 105 R7000 crank for a 46T Ultegra chainring (because this is my gravelbike and 50 is just not needed). Can I just replace them like for like or should I shorten the chain and/or re-align the front derailler (if so, only the top screw?)?
Am getting a new Canyon Endurace with SRAM eTap but need 165mm crank arms. Can I just change out the crank arms? Thanks!
Hi Jon. I currently run a 6700 with 53/39. Because of my riding style (North Yorks moors) the inner ring is the one showing signs of wear. Can if fit a 34T? What are the implications?
PS I too have a TAG F1 - same colouring as yours, though I take mine off before I do any work on the bike.
I really only clicked for the nice red 6mm compression bolt on the dura ace cranks.
What is the usual torque setting for, say... a Dura Ace chain ring?
I'm thinking of changing from Ultegra semi compact to Dura Ace compact or changing cassette. I built my Litespeed about 7 years ago and went 52 36 up front and 11-25 cassette, all Ultegra. Now, regrets. I'm 55 years old now. I used to mash with no problems. Now my Litespeed I keep on my wall (stand like a trophy). The gearing wears me out in hilly Washington state. I rarely used 52-11. Should I change cassette or chainring? I'd like to go Dura Ace. Is it easy bolt off bolt on without taking off cranks? I'm a newb in this regard. I think it was 110 spider, not sure but I know it was the 6800 groupo. Thoughts? I don't race, just ride casual but I like to go far.
Do you need to shorten your chain when mounting smaller chain rings?
John, where did you get hex crank arm fixing bolt? @6:56
I have a double 10 speed 36/22t chainset and the larger 36t chainring is worn out and needs changing. Can i buy any 36t chainring with the same bcd and put it on? Thanks
I've genuinely just replaced my big chain ring 6 hours ago. This video would have been slightly useful as I replaced my Tiagra FC-4500 52B with a 105 52B. It doesn't match up perfectly with the pedal (the tiagra was slightly wider next to the bolts) but it works like a charm.
I've replaced my groupset and chain two days ago and the chain would "jump" when I applied too much force, so that was a good indicator that the chain ring had to go as well.
Thyldor, ditto!!!!
Could you do a short video on measuring bcd?
I’ve an old crankset with no writing that displays the bcd and no chainrings are currently on it
Measure from the middle of the bolt hole to the middle of the crank axle and multiply by two.
JMise good answer
I have a 20 speed hardtail and I would like to convert it to a 30 speed, any advice on what I need please, would I need new items and what thanks
Psychics? How did you know I am doing this? What's the lotto lucky numbers for this week please? 53, 39, 50 and 34 plus what others?
3:24
What does same bolt circle diameter means?
I want to go from compact to mid-compact, so would appreciate a video on this.
Garth Garthly straight forward as long as BCD is the same. Only consideration is chain length and if you went back to 53/39, moving the front derailleur up
what about the hidden bolt?
What is that red cap on the Dura ace crank is it metal if so what is the name of the model ,cheers
Anti-seize grease to be used in conjunction with thread-lock (like LocTite), or anti-seize alone for that chain ring hardware?
he mentioned thread-lock is not necessary (it might even make it hard replacing it another time years later?)
Is it possible to replace a 36 (52/36) with a 34?( Making it a 52/34). Will my front derailleur work anyway? (Dura ace Di2). Ciao from italy.
FWIW, the pro teams are doing this on occasion (52-34 chainring combos). Apparently the concern is not so much the larger jump in tooth differential, but the potential for interference when in a cross-chained position (presumably 34-11), a mix pros wouldn't use.
George Hugh thank you 🖖🏻😉
I swapped out my 36 inner for a 34 on a recent hilly ride with no problems. Would do it again with no concerns
My chainring is have an small gap between the fd if the fd is geared on the max chainring it hits the crank arm how to adjust it ?
do bolt sizes vary on bcd96? or all standard . like on a bcd104 they are all bigger
I tighten the Chain Ring bolts in a Star pattern....
On thing they don't tell you in all these videos is that you may have to use a crank-puller in order to get the pedal arm off. I have to use it every time for my new Trek bike.
Damn I love this channel! Thanks Jon!
Outstanding explanation and video! Thank you!
A timely video, I’m just replacing mine, but sadly the bolts have had it. Jon please tell me that standard countersunk M8-10mm length bolts will fit a Campagnolo chainring (pre 2011, before they screwed directly into the carbon) I’ve checked the measurements and I’m pretty sure they’re the same as the original, vastly overpriced, and difficult to track down campagnolo bolts!
John, I was really looking forward to see how you take apart the 9000 crankset, especially the outer ring. Maybe some other time :)
Is there any 110 BCD 53/39 chainrings available for Shimano
Hi folks I wonder if you could really help me out I’m looking to get a road bike from Decathalon ULTRA 900 I couldn’t get much information on that site amazing customer service guy said it’s a very good bike with superlightweight I’m just trying to work out what the biggest gearset I could most probably put onto the bike when I purchase it.
Is my new model of claris chainring is replaceable?????
Jon, i DID have a properly tighten bolt come lose (half of it fell), it took me awhile to find out where the rattling was coming from, being the hidden bolt took even longer to find the culprit...
Testing for worn Chainrings. There is the chain lift test, a new chain wrapped around a chain ring will lift up a worn chain ring but not on a new Chainring.
What do you torque the chainring bolts to (no value)?
I'd like to know this too!
Hi Jon can I upgrade my 53-39 tt chainring by changing my inner chainring to 34 t ??????
Vercin Festin exact same question here, any idea anyone?
Hi guys. I have a shimano sora 9 speed compact chainset with 11-28t at the back can I just simply interchange this to an 11-30t without needing a new derailleur or chain? (Nearly died on a hill last week 😂)
Andreas Sevilä Öberg thanks so it should work ok then hopefully 😊
Did I miss it or did you forget to mention SRAMs hidden bolt system?
What is the correct torque for tightening the chain ring bolts of a SRAM Force? Does anyone know?
Maybe 7-8nm
J S thank you so much
Your comments about aligning the maker's mark to the crank arm do not help if the chainring does NOT have maker's alignment marks. So, for a 3-ring crank set, where should the shifter pins be orientated for best results, for the middle and big rings?
Careful with the peg spanner! It's very easy to have your hand slip as you tight the bolt with the other hand. When your hand slips, it always slips directly to the sharp teeths of the chainring.
Hi, thanks for the content you produce. I really enjoy it.
I run a 50-34 chainset on a 11speed 11-29 cassette. I am thinking of changing my 50 to a 52. Would this bring me problems?
The chain is sized to the 34-11, I should not add more links there. Is there any risk to break the rear derailleur? I would have to adjust the front derailleur, but would it still work fine?
Thanks again!
the front mech range is usually 16 teeth, so you should change the smaller ring to 36 as well
I have a 50 tooth Shimano Dura ace 7950 CR. Does anyone know of an aftermarket non-oem replacement? They're getting hard to find and expensive.
GNX157 try BBB, they may have something. Jon
They must be out of business or hacked. I can't get past the cookie acknowledgement.
GNX157 search for bcr-37s
It's perfect for you. Cheers
GNX157 also, stronglight make a compatible ring
Cuánto pesa la bisicleta
#GCNTech Super Nice!
I tighten my chainring bolts in 3 graduated torque steps.
Nice one Jon
Cheers
Also make sure you check the BCD on the chain ring and make sure it fits in the crankset
Being a heavy boi sucks. you have to worry about the fatique and wear of your bike more so than people who are lighter. im 175lbs and notice that my tires, chain (drivetrain in general), bottom bracket, and the frame will wear out so much faster and therefore cost more money than my
Im over 200lbs and i go through a bb every 6 months or so. And I've ruined a frame by wearing out the threads on bb shell. Sad reacts to the death of my specialized allez 2010 we had a good run.
Sufyan Saleem sad REACC
I wish this video shows every step, from removing the crank arm from the bottom bracket. This video assumes that crank arm removal was magically done somehow.
Great video with so many good tip! If you not know how to do check it out at GCN Tech!
Thanks Petinka!
Compact!!!!!!
a pity it's not explained how to fit tripple chainrings !
Outer chainrings are so expensive.
2.53, you say it perfectly.
The range of different BCD's available for this STANDARD bracket.
Utter nonsense 😠😠😠
Has that pizza slicer always been there?
Ty K yep. Jon
So how tf do we get it off the bike tf???
Waste of time - didn't even show how the chain bolts came out.
extremely painful to watch. All we want to know is how to replace the rings
Too much blather.
Easy to assemble th-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA but I still took it to a bike shop to have it looked over for safety; overall bike is quite sturdy and rides super smooth through shifting. I'm definitely in love with this bike and am so glad I decided to make this purchase. Sizing was perfect for me (I got the 53" and I'm 5'9" 210 lbs) and it's light weight. Seat is solid, good quality. Shifting levers do require some practice, but I definitely got the hang of how much pressure to apply after a few mins riding. I would highly recommend for a beginner bike if you are Iooking for quality on a budget.