Thanks for clarifying a couple of things like the correct position for the little bump on the small ring, and also the bolt torque. But for the benefit of anyone else reading, I was able to change my 52/36 rings to 50/34 rings without removing the cranks. The rings slip off and on very easily over the drive side arm.
Yep. And since the mounting geometries [both mounting holes and clearance voids] are identical for these Shimano 4-bolt chainrings, this will work for ANY replacement chainring set. You can swap an R-8000 50/34 for a 53/39, or a 52/36, or a 46/36, without ever disassembling the crank or bottom spindle.
@@andrewchrisgreen It can feel like a puzzle at times, threading the chainring(s) onto the crank arm, but it CAN be done. And yes, I finished with a torque wrench.
Outstanding step by step. So clear even I couldn't screw up replacing a worn chainring, thanks! Back to being able to get out of the saddle and put the power down a bit without the chain "popping" off, thanks to a new big ring 👍
Outstanding tutorial...I was messing up everytime I was trying to get the middle chain ring in place. That 'bump' trick did it right for me. Thank man...
I just did buy a new bike. And did change right away to AbsoluteBlack chainrings. I did almost not get the pre load screw out. I had to get a rubber band to have more grip to get it of. I then installed my new rings and put the cranks back and did think it needs to be as tide as it was... done from the bike shop. I then noticed that the cranks would turn Perfect but stop at one point first i did think that the 32 ovalring did rub very slightly in the frame. But then i saw your video and redid it with the preload screw only hand tide. And now it runs perfectly thanks a lot mate great videos thanks for sharing your knowledge !!!
Great instuctions super clear. I was checking the bolts on my bike for tighness while a go and decided to take chainrings off the crank to clean everyting. I forgot to doubble check that I installed the small chairing correctly super ADHD moment for me. I notcied that my front mech was not shifting as good as it did before. Installed the little ring incorectly and now I fixed my mistake and shifting is back to normal.
Your video are always straight forward. Thanks is would be great if you can make a video when to replace a chain ring or cog ⚙️ and how to tell when they are worn and need replacing .
Tnx! managed to install a new chainring in 10 minutes thanks to your tutorial. I did not remove the crank only the rings but that can leave scratches on your paint/finish. Still quite doable imo.
Just the video I needed.. going along today and the bolt had come loose and was rubbing against the frame. Lucky it didn’t fall out so was able to tighten it back up.. great video as others say I need special tool to secure the chainset. Job for tomorrow is taking the bolt out again and putting some grease it. Thanks for the vid ✅
Great vid. 10/10 Few things to add. If stuck which way rings go, look for damage in the old ring from the screws. And just like he said look for the notch before putting rings on. With 3 rings, smallest need to be taken off too
Hi! Are these 4 bolts a standard ones ? Like in usual 5 bolts chainrings (of corse here was used only 1 type of blots - other "bolts" are mounted in big chainring)
Great video! I have a Shimano 105 r7000 crankset. Looking to upgrade my 53 tooth chainring to a Rotor Aero round 55 tooth chainring. I know that I'll also need a bolt cover set, but will this ring be compatible with my r7000 crankset? Thanks!
hey, just found the video, and wondered if you happen to know if the Tiagra 4700 crank fits Ultegra 6800 chainrings? Planning to do a cost-effective upgrade
Can you do a video on crank arm Allen bolt and screws! Seems like the ones Shimano provide in that Chain ring and other using a 5Bolt Aftermarket pattern are fifferent
Just put my new outer ring on per this video. One of the 4 aluminum bolt heads snapped right off. I had an extension on my torque wrench and I think it allowed for some lateral pressure and it popped the head right off like a pop top. Beware of that. I knew they were fragile, but that was ridiculous. Now I have to find replacements. The manual may state 12 to 14 Nm, but I’d stick to the 6 to 8 mentioned here. Had my torque wrench set 7 Nm and it still broke the head off. Hoping I can ride on 3 bolts until the replacement arrives.
i did the same mistake just now... the head snapped... i have no torque but I read 12-16nm on the manual from shimano!?!!!? big ride tomorrow. eeh dont think so....
@@Mathiasbendiksen Yeah, it’s easy to do. Very thin metal between the shank and the beveled head. I think the trick is not use extensions and remain straight as you tighten. That doesn’t help you now unfortunately, but might help when you get your replacement bolts. Good luck bro.
BTW, don’t ride on three bolts. I did that on one ride and a buddy told me how he’d done the same and it ruined his big ring. I took it easy and escaped with no issues. Those big rings are $300 in my Dura Ace instance. (Unrelated)
Thanks for the reply! Everyone raves about that Phil waterproof grease, so I suppose I'll use that. One last question: do you clean inside the bottom bracket once the spindle is out, or just around the outer edges? BTW, your videos are excellent! Best I've seen!@@FreeToCycle
In your video, you say you have to torque them to 6-8 nM, but in the shimano manual they say you have to set your wrench to 12-16nM. What should I use?
Just put my new outer ring on per this video. One of the 4 aluminum bolt heads snapped right off. I had an extension on my torque wrench and I think it allowed for some lateral pressure and it popped the head right off like a pop top. Beware of that. I knew they were fragile, but that was ridiculous. Now I have to find replacements.
@Free To Cycle Shimano's is a dry torque specification (no lubrication). When using anti seize you need to reduce 25%-50% since the threads are lubricated. Shimano's is a high spec for aluminum so you're pretty much guaranteed to break the bolts if you use the dry spec with lubricated threads.
Hi, as written your video are super useful 😉, quick question: I’d like to upgrade my chain rings from 50/34 to 52/36, in this case I should raise up the derailleur, is it possible to do this without disconnect cable? Thanks I’m advance
great video, thanks! Anyone know if it's at all possible to replace/fix one of the threaded inserts on the outer chainring without replacing the entire chain ring? i have one i bought second hand that has one of the threads that is stripped :( Thanks
Thanks for getting back man. I plan to buy single chainring that is meant for grx but i will install it on my 6800 ultegra since they both have 110bcd. What do you think?
I took the bolts out of my old crank (52) to put the chainring on my new bike as the 50 has me running out of gears far too fast. But the big chainring is stuck on like a mothersonofa... xD
So I successfully replaced my chainrings from 50-34 to 52-36t BUT the issue I’m having is my front derailleur is low and the teeth are touching it. I need to figure out how to raise the derailleur up a little bit to clear the larger 53t chainring. I see a bolt that attaches the derailleur to the frame but think there is another small bolt.
Definitely those chain ring bolts 6-8nm, Shimano manuals recommends 12-14 which would totally strip the bolts. Those bolts are made of aluminum which should not go for more than 8nm max
I wish I had seen this before attempting the job - from what I can see the service manual shows 12 - 16nm, I aimed for 14 and stripped the thread of the chain ring itself, not the bolt.
Hands down, the best cycle maintenance videos on this planet. Every detail covered. All the right shots and angles. Take a bow!
Thanks for clarifying a couple of things like the correct position for the little bump on the small ring, and also the bolt torque. But for the benefit of anyone else reading, I was able to change my 52/36 rings to 50/34 rings without removing the cranks. The rings slip off and on very easily over the drive side arm.
I was wondering if I’d be able to change my 34 inner without dropping the crank out. Thanks.
Yep. And since the mounting geometries [both mounting holes and clearance voids] are identical for these Shimano 4-bolt chainrings, this will work for ANY replacement chainring set. You can swap an R-8000 50/34 for a 53/39, or a 52/36, or a 46/36, without ever disassembling the crank or bottom spindle.
@@scottcoleman4866 did you use a torque wrench to reinstall? don't know this would work without the crank being taken off.
@@andrewchrisgreen It can feel like a puzzle at times, threading the chainring(s) onto the crank arm, but it CAN be done. And yes, I finished with a torque wrench.
Thanks for confirming - just planning to swap some chainrings and I was planning to do it without pulling the crank.
Clear, concise and easy to follow. Had my new chainrings on in 15 minutes (despite the cat knocking the bolts into the garden)
Very helpful, you show every step very cleanly, all for me to do now is buy new chain rings, thank you.
Outstanding step by step. So clear even I couldn't screw up replacing a worn chainring, thanks! Back to being able to get out of the saddle and put the power down a bit without the chain "popping" off, thanks to a new big ring 👍
Thank you very much for producing this video. I successfully changed my chain rings today using your guidance.
Outstanding tutorial...I was messing up everytime I was trying to get the middle chain ring in place. That 'bump' trick did it right for me.
Thank man...
Brilliant Ta!.. Absaloutly no twatting about then back to base for tea and Crumpets...learnt shed loads thanks.✌️
Great video, very clear and easy to follow instructions. Thanks Mate !!!
Just ordered 34/50, downsizing from 36/52. I'm saving this video, for when they're delivered. Thank you.
I did the opposite: purchased the 52/36 upsizing from 50/34, for me too “light”
@@antoniosanto2617 I had to go back to 52/36. I was getting dropped too much on the 50/34. Now I stay with group!🚲
@Allan Yes, my area is hilly. That's why 50/34 makes sense.
Followed this step by step and successfully changed my chainring. Thank you so much
Long time viewer - me IMCR - This video helps a lot yesterday replacing the R8000 chainring. Thank you very much!
Excellent video - very clear and easy instructions, thanks.
Excellent. Very thorough explanation.
I just did buy a new bike. And did change right away to AbsoluteBlack chainrings. I did almost not get the pre load screw out. I had to get a rubber band to have more grip to get it of. I then installed my new rings and put the cranks back and did think it needs to be as tide as it was... done from the bike shop. I then noticed that the cranks would turn Perfect but stop at one point first i did think that the 32 ovalring did rub very slightly in the frame. But then i saw your video and redid it with the preload screw only hand tide. And now it runs perfectly thanks a lot mate great videos thanks for sharing your knowledge !!!
very well detailed.
helped me get trough it!
Thanks a lot
Very clear and helpful, step by step instructions. Going to do this today. Thank you!
This is the exact thing I will be doing this weekend! Changing out my 50-34 to 52-36t. Thank you for the tutorial!
Great instuctions super clear. I was checking the bolts on my bike for tighness while a go and decided to take chainrings off the crank to clean everyting. I forgot to doubble check that I installed the small chairing correctly super ADHD moment for me.
I notcied that my front mech was not shifting as good as it did before. Installed the little ring incorectly and now I fixed my mistake and shifting is back to normal.
Your video are always straight forward. Thanks is would be great if you can make a video when to replace a chain ring or cog ⚙️ and how to tell when they are worn and need replacing .
Tnx! managed to install a new chainring in 10 minutes thanks to your tutorial. I did not remove the crank only the rings but that can leave scratches on your paint/finish. Still quite doable imo.
Always thorough on how to do things on a bike. Great job.
Thanks for all the great instructional videos! Great explanations to go along with the video. My go to place when I need help.
Just the video I needed.. going along today and the bolt had come loose and was rubbing against the frame. Lucky it didn’t fall out so was able to tighten it back up.. great video as others say I need special tool to secure the chainset. Job for tomorrow is taking the bolt out again and putting some grease it. Thanks for the vid ✅
Right to the point. Suscribed since first minutes on the video. Thank you!
Very clear intructions. Thank You. 👍
Man this is gonna help out. Thanks man. 350 tune up and to do this at my bike shop and that didn't include the large chainring. What crooks
Do it yourself and save a fortune!!
Great vid. 10/10
Few things to add. If stuck which way rings go, look for damage in the old ring from the screws.
And just like he said look for the notch before putting rings on.
With 3 rings, smallest need to be taken off too
Spot on, no nonscence advice.
All your videos are excellent 👌
Thank you so much. Super helpful.
Well done and as usual, easy and clear. Thanks for posting!
Great video and I have just ordered a chain ring so I’m happy I watched that.
always great- nice and slow, idiot proof explanations of all the tools, so even I understand! Thanks
Great video got what I was looking for better than gcn lol thanks
Excellent. I like not getting ripped off at LBS.
Thanks for the video. I currently have 105-R7000 53-39 chainrings and just ordered the compact 50-32. Is it possible to combine the 50 with the 39?
thanks a lot , can i do it without unmounting crank ? bolt after bolt ?
Super helpful as ever. Cheers mate 👍
Hi
Is it the same procedure for a Dura-ace Power Meter that I wish to change from 50-34 to 52-36 or is that a different soldier?
Great vid, cheers for that
can you replace the chainring without taking out the whole crankset? The bolts are accessible...can it work without a full removal? thanks
I had the same question. Yesterday I just gave it a try, and it worked well on my 105 with 50-34.
Hi! Are these 4 bolts a standard ones ? Like in usual 5 bolts chainrings (of corse here was used only 1 type of blots - other "bolts" are mounted in big chainring)
Great video! I have a Shimano 105 r7000 crankset. Looking to upgrade my 53 tooth chainring to a Rotor Aero round 55 tooth chainring. I know that I'll also need a bolt cover set, but will this ring be compatible with my r7000 crankset? Thanks!
hey, just found the video, and wondered if you happen to know if the Tiagra 4700 crank fits Ultegra 6800 chainrings? Planning to do a cost-effective upgrade
Thanks, very helpful.
could I just remove the small chainring and use the large exclusively on the inside?? I have a Sora so the big ring is removable
Great video 👍
nice one, very helpful!
Very helpful, thank you mate
Can you do a video on crank arm Allen bolt and screws!
Seems like the ones Shimano provide in that Chain ring and other using a 5Bolt Aftermarket pattern are fifferent
Just put my new outer ring on per this video. One of the 4 aluminum bolt heads snapped right off. I had an extension on my torque wrench and I think it allowed for some lateral pressure and it popped the head right off like a pop top. Beware of that. I knew they were fragile, but that was ridiculous. Now I have to find replacements. The manual may state 12 to 14 Nm, but I’d stick to the 6 to 8 mentioned here. Had my torque wrench set 7 Nm and it still broke the head off. Hoping I can ride on 3 bolts until the replacement arrives.
Where did you get the bolts? I have one cross thread
@@chifungtam Global Cycling Network was the site. Mainly MTB products, but they had these.
i did the same mistake just now... the head snapped... i have no torque but I read 12-16nm on the manual from shimano!?!!!? big ride tomorrow. eeh dont think so....
@@Mathiasbendiksen Yeah, it’s easy to do. Very thin metal between the shank and the beveled head. I think the trick is not use extensions and remain straight as you tighten. That doesn’t help you now unfortunately, but might help when you get your replacement bolts. Good luck bro.
BTW, don’t ride on three bolts. I did that on one ride and a buddy told me how he’d done the same and it ruined his big ring. I took it easy and escaped with no issues. Those big rings are $300 in my Dura Ace instance. (Unrelated)
Great video! What should I use to clean the spindle, etc? A citrus cleaner? And what grease should I use?
A citrus degreaser will do the job, any good quality bike grease will do the trick loads available online!
Thanks for the reply! Everyone raves about that Phil waterproof grease, so I suppose I'll use that. One last question: do you clean inside the bottom bracket once the spindle is out, or just around the outer edges? BTW, your videos are excellent! Best I've seen!@@FreeToCycle
You can wipe it out won’t do any harm!
Thanks, Mate!
In your video, you say you have to torque them to 6-8 nM, but in the shimano manual they say you have to set your wrench to 12-16nM. What should I use?
You can use the Shimano settings but you can sometimes strip the threads! That’s why I say use a lower setting just in case.
Just put my new outer ring on per this video. One of the 4 aluminum bolt heads snapped right off. I had an extension on my torque wrench and I think it allowed for some lateral pressure and it popped the head right off like a pop top. Beware of that. I knew they were fragile, but that was ridiculous. Now I have to find replacements.
@Free To Cycle Shimano's is a dry torque specification (no lubrication). When using anti seize you need to reduce 25%-50% since the threads are lubricated. Shimano's is a high spec for aluminum so you're pretty much guaranteed to break the bolts if you use the dry spec with lubricated threads.
Hi, as written your video are super useful 😉, quick question: I’d like to upgrade my chain rings from 50/34 to 52/36, in this case I should raise up the derailleur, is it possible to do this without disconnect cable? Thanks I’m advance
To move the derailleur you will have to disconnect the cable!
great video, thanks! Anyone know if it's at all possible to replace/fix one of the threaded inserts on the outer chainring without replacing the entire chain ring? i have one i bought second hand that has one of the threads that is stripped :( Thanks
I have a 5800 105 crankarm and planning to change my bigring but i bought the ultegra same in the video will it fit?
Yes!
I appreciate your great videos. One question - I couldn't catch what it was you put into the bolt holes. Was that some kind of grease?
Anti seize compound
What torque wrench are you using?
Perfect, thank you
Hi there man! Do you have any idea if ultegra 6800 and the grx rx810 crank have the same BCD? Both says 110 bcd.
Thanks!
Nice video btw so helpful
The chainrings aren’t interchangeable between the two!
Thanks for getting back man. I plan to buy single chainring that is meant for grx but i will install it on my 6800 ultegra since they both have 110bcd. What do you think?
Your videos are 🔝🔝🔝
Perfect 👍. Thanks
I took the bolts out of my old crank (52) to put the chainring on my new bike as the 50 has me running out of gears far too fast. But the big chainring is stuck on like a mothersonofa... xD
Can you remove the chainring without removing the crank?
Yes!
Your the best
Fantastic. Thank you.
Applicable for sora?
Its posible to change chainring without remowing crank??s
I have Shimano 105 r7000 crankset on my bike. Can I put ultegra chainrings on my 105 crank arms?
Yes!
So I successfully replaced my chainrings from 50-34 to 52-36t BUT the issue I’m having is my front derailleur is low and the teeth are touching it. I need to figure out how to raise the derailleur up a little bit to clear the larger 53t chainring. I see a bolt that attaches the derailleur to the frame but think there is another small bolt.
You will need to re do the cable as you can’t just move the derailleur up!
can i fit a 105 r5800 cranks with a r7000 chainrings? thanks...
Helpful thank you :)
is it possible to change the chainrings on stages power LR the same method?
Yes. Stages right side power meter chain rings are user replaceable
thank you
Thanks!
😂wish I saw this early, snapped my bolts with 12N
Can this chainring fits to grx rx600 ?
No!
What bcd the small chainring?
110mm
Definitely those chain ring bolts 6-8nm, Shimano manuals recommends 12-14 which would totally strip the bolts. Those bolts are made of aluminum which should not go for more than 8nm max
I wish I had seen this before attempting the job - from what I can see the service manual shows 12 - 16nm, I aimed for 14 and stripped the thread of the chain ring itself, not the bolt.
Thanks for that.
Yes, same happened to me, bolt snapped while tigthening to 12Nm, so I'm now using 8Nm with threadlocker just to be safe.
Does anybody know if it‘s possible to fit ultegra chainrings on Dura ACE cranks?
Straight swap!
@@FreeToCycle thanks
Can anyone tell me what BCD of RX810-1 ???
110mm
@@FreeToCycle can i use crank arm 105 and chainring grx 1x ?
No!
can i use shimano 11 speed inner ring on R3000 chainring ? Cant find replacement inner ring for R3000 at my country...
No!