Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Very helpful! I love my Kobra 2 Pros, but needing a larger print area. I think I'll be picking one of these up!
The K2M was my first printer. I like it, and I'm still going to buy a Bambu eventually, but I'll keep my K2M. It's big enough to print a wakizashi (short katana) in one go if tilted at an angle. I'd say it's worth the money. I would have paid more, but I think it's one of the best bangs for the buck out there. I would definitely recommend getting a K2M.
Thanks for the review, guy, much appreciated. Man, I'm so on the fence about this printer. I see several TH-camrs like you saying good things about it, but then I read comments below every video from owners complaining about all sorts of gnarly problems they've had, the anemic slicer, and most concerningly, lack of support. Users with a social media presence (TH-camrs, Instagrammers, etc.) seem to get preferential treatment from support while the rest are mostly ignored. And with a printer that has its problems, that's worrisome. But then again, the market for affordable large-format FDM printers is tiny. It's basically the AC Kobra 2 Max and the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max (which has its own set of problems). The rest either have a much smaller printing area or are much more expensive. What I may do is order one via Amazon and if it's a dud I'll have 30 days to send it back. Then just repeat that until I get a good one (or better one at least). It seems like if you get a good one, you're mostly in the clear, but get a bad one and you're in repair hell. Ordering it via Anycubic puts you at their mercy on returns and support. Anyway, I'm meandering now, thanks again!
No problems at all. Touch wood I haven’t had any issue with mine in many months. The one main problem you will find is a small ptfe guide tube that distorts and melts. Which causes Many issues. Replace that and ur golden I think
hi, i am considering buying the cobra 2 max, today. I knew about the ptf tube problem. I think to replace it with a metal tube. Just to say as well, the blue ptf tubing seems to be a cheaper option than the white. I had to swap back to the white as the blue tube kept giving flow issues on one of my other printers. which clearly now is that it does not hold up to the temperatures. What temperatures do you run your printer. I subscribed to you today because i like your pistols in your background. I am printing out the hellgun now using my tiny kingroon. I had to split it up into many parts. The finished hellgun should be just over a metre when finished printing
Pre-ordered mine. Took a couple hours to get it dialed in. The auto stuff was pretty close but scraped the hell out of the bed. I honestly hate using it. Having to wait for it to heat up and start printing only to see that I need to stop and wait for it to cool down and make changes has been a headache. I got a couple decent prints out of it but then had to move it to another room for space and did not want to go through the hassle again. So its a big expensive paper weight at this moment. My little Mars 2 is so much easier to setup and print and it is so much more reliable, even with a misprint every once in a while. I ended up gettinga Mars 5 and it's great.
@@hobbytime66 Definitely. I used to have a Mega X and it worked beautifully out of the box. I want to work on it this weekend and try and get it up and working since it is starting to cool down. I live in Arizona and the garage isn't the best place to hangout for several hours in the summer time.
I tried again this last weekend and I got close. I put the print speed down to 60mm/s, I know I know but it's the furthest I've ever got a print on this machine. Everything I tried at the default speed would never stick to the bed. I tried a 3 piece dagger, it's a 3 hour and 45 minutes print. It is a 'support free' model so I first tried it with zero supports. It would get about 2 hours in and the hotend would inevitably knock over a piece of the dagger. So I tried a brim, and the brim lifts off the bed as soon as it is laid down. So I stopped it and tried a skirt, which did stick, but again it got to about 2 hours in and 2 of the pieces got knocked over. I am going to increase the retraction distance and see if that helps. I don't know what to do, the instructions do not help. It sucks to piss away so much filament to get this figured out. I again ended up just printing with my Mars 5 Ultra.
I bought my Kobra 2 Max back in Jan of this year it was my first intro into 3d printing. I picked up an Ender 3 Pro after that and my Anycubic Kobra 2 Max is lightyears ahead of the Creality. I have only had a few nonstick issues when I start in the morning but usually if I stop it then restart the project it does fine the rest of the day. I did have a gloop issue once where I had left to go to the store came back and there was a huge mess when I came back...lol but it turned out to be a file issue not the printer
Im completely new to 3d printing, and recently picked up this printer. Ive had main issues not with the printer but rather the slicer. The slicer settings are confusing and tuff to me, I dont like the confusing/fast default speed it gives because in times it can lack quality and cause many failures. Ive tried adjusting the settings but its been a mess any way to help? Or get good settings onto prusa slicer.
Prusa slicer there is a profile. I don’t go above 250mm/s for speed either I found that’s my magic number. Check the k1 max owners group on Facebook as there is some great tips there for you :-)
I got this printer and had a horrible experience about z axis problems. Sometimes I have to manually set the nozzle distance to 2.23 mm, even after probing, next time the nozzle dives right into the metal bed. I never had this kind of problems ever with any kind of 3d printer.
I found a lot of little things were a little loose all forming big issues. A software update as well helps some of my z issues. With the massive bed I find I still relevel after every few prints so. Sorry ur experience sucked. It’s tough I know
I have a kobra 2 max as well.. Ill say their slicer seems to be very basic, wish it supported sequential printing given how large the bed is. Also that app, the video feed never works when I try to use it what camera are you using? Did you replace your nozzle with a larger one by chance? I think the printer seems fine, just wish it was more polished and hope the ams has a retro fit for it. If you have contacts at anycubic should ask for them to do that plz. Last thing support, I can never get them to respond when opening tickets you have had different luck? Thanks!
Email has always been my best bet. I seem to have best response here. I’m using this video and the comment to show anycubic the common problems. Thanks for your feedback :-)
Man, I had huge layer shifting issues with this printer for about 3 days and had to use lasers and uv ink to finally find out what was wrong. They must really like you, I had tried to contact their customer service time after time and they would never reply. I even informed them of an engineering issue on this printer that will lead to layer shifts and they never got back to me. I’m going to charge them now for the procedure since they keep wasting money sending people replacement parts that have no issues in the first place.
@@hobbytime66 I used their website and also used a QR redirect on the paperwork that they sent me. A couple of the printer parts were broken and I was missing the spool arm bracket. I ended up just making one on Fusion and printing a bigger one to fit larger spools.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Very helpful! I love my Kobra 2 Pros, but needing a larger print area. I think I'll be picking one of these up!
My pleasure. Hope you enjoy
The K2M was my first printer. I like it, and I'm still going to buy a Bambu eventually, but I'll keep my K2M. It's big enough to print a wakizashi (short katana) in one go if tilted at an angle. I'd say it's worth the money. I would have paid more, but I think it's one of the best bangs for the buck out there. I would definitely recommend getting a K2M.
@@OTTODARKHEART I agree, for large prints and its sheer size. Nothing can top it
Thanks for the review, guy, much appreciated. Man, I'm so on the fence about this printer. I see several TH-camrs like you saying good things about it, but then I read comments below every video from owners complaining about all sorts of gnarly problems they've had, the anemic slicer, and most concerningly, lack of support. Users with a social media presence (TH-camrs, Instagrammers, etc.) seem to get preferential treatment from support while the rest are mostly ignored. And with a printer that has its problems, that's worrisome.
But then again, the market for affordable large-format FDM printers is tiny. It's basically the AC Kobra 2 Max and the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max (which has its own set of problems). The rest either have a much smaller printing area or are much more expensive. What I may do is order one via Amazon and if it's a dud I'll have 30 days to send it back. Then just repeat that until I get a good one (or better one at least). It seems like if you get a good one, you're mostly in the clear, but get a bad one and you're in repair hell. Ordering it via Anycubic puts you at their mercy on returns and support.
Anyway, I'm meandering now, thanks again!
No problems at all. Touch wood I haven’t had any issue with mine in many months. The one main problem you will find is a small ptfe guide tube that distorts and melts. Which causes
Many issues. Replace that and ur golden I think
@@hobbytime66 Thanks for the info. I think I'll give it a go then. And hope the printer Gods smile upon me. :)
@@Calamity_Jack fingers crossed. Just make sure to tighten the print head bolts too. I’ve found they seemed to be looser than they should
@@hobbytime66 Some good advice, thanks! I'll probably go all through it and make sure everything's tightened up appropriately. lol!
@@Calamity_Jack use prusa slicer too
hi, i am considering buying the cobra 2 max, today. I knew about the ptf tube problem. I think to replace it with a metal tube. Just to say as well, the blue ptf tubing seems to be a cheaper option than the white. I had to swap back to the white as the blue tube kept giving flow issues on one of my other printers. which clearly now is that it does not hold up to the temperatures. What temperatures do you run your printer. I subscribed to you today because i like your pistols in your background. I am printing out the hellgun now using my tiny kingroon. I had to split it up into many parts. The finished hellgun should be just over a metre when finished printing
Wow. I can’t wait to see that when you’re done. Thanks for the sub. I run 230 max usually. Besides the pfte tube it’s been a true workhorse
Pre-ordered mine. Took a couple hours to get it dialed in. The auto stuff was pretty close but scraped the hell out of the bed. I honestly hate using it. Having to wait for it to heat up and start printing only to see that I need to stop and wait for it to cool down and make changes has been a headache. I got a couple decent prints out of it but then had to move it to another room for space and did not want to go through the hassle again. So its a big expensive paper weight at this moment. My little Mars 2 is so much easier to setup and print and it is so much more reliable, even with a misprint every once in a while. I ended up gettinga Mars 5 and it's great.
Sorry that you have that happen. Never ideal is it ?
@@hobbytime66 Definitely. I used to have a Mega X and it worked beautifully out of the box. I want to work on it this weekend and try and get it up and working since it is starting to cool down. I live in Arizona and the garage isn't the best place to hangout for several hours in the summer time.
@@Faecaloma took me sometime to get it dialled in. But I agree the mega x was almost flawless
I tried again this last weekend and I got close. I put the print speed down to 60mm/s, I know I know but it's the furthest I've ever got a print on this machine. Everything I tried at the default speed would never stick to the bed.
I tried a 3 piece dagger, it's a 3 hour and 45 minutes print. It is a 'support free' model so I first tried it with zero supports. It would get about 2 hours in and the hotend would inevitably knock over a piece of the dagger. So I tried a brim, and the brim lifts off the bed as soon as it is laid down. So I stopped it and tried a skirt, which did stick, but again it got to about 2 hours in and 2 of the pieces got knocked over. I am going to increase the retraction distance and see if that helps. I don't know what to do, the instructions do not help. It sucks to piss away so much filament to get this figured out.
I again ended up just printing with my Mars 5 Ultra.
Bed temp is 60C. Hard to edit comments on mobile.
I bought my Kobra 2 Max back in Jan of this year it was my first intro into 3d printing. I picked up an Ender 3 Pro after that and my Anycubic Kobra 2 Max is lightyears ahead of the Creality. I have only had a few nonstick issues when I start in the morning but usually if I stop it then restart the project it does fine the rest of the day. I did have a gloop issue once where I had left to go to the store came back and there was a huge mess when I came back...lol but it turned out to be a file issue not the printer
Great to hear :-) printing good now ?
Where can you buy extra PTF Blue Tubes that melt?
EBay
Im completely new to 3d printing, and recently picked up this printer. Ive had main issues not with the printer but rather the slicer. The slicer settings are confusing and tuff to me, I dont like the confusing/fast default speed it gives because in times it can lack quality and cause many failures. Ive tried adjusting the settings but its been a mess any way to help? Or get good settings onto prusa slicer.
Prusa slicer there is a profile. I don’t go above 250mm/s for speed either I found that’s my magic number. Check the k1 max owners group on Facebook as there is some great tips there for you :-)
@@hobbytime66 for me I can’t find the Anycubic kobra 2 max only the max
Mine came with a couple profiles you can manually enter into Prusa. It was in the flashdrive with the sample files.
I got this printer and had a horrible experience about z axis problems. Sometimes I have to manually set the nozzle distance to 2.23 mm, even after probing, next time the nozzle dives right into the metal bed. I never had this kind of problems ever with any kind of 3d printer.
I found a lot of little things were a little loose all forming big issues. A software update as well helps some of my z issues. With the massive bed I find I still relevel after every few prints so. Sorry ur experience sucked. It’s tough I know
I have a kobra 2 max as well.. Ill say their slicer seems to be very basic, wish it supported sequential printing given how large the bed is. Also that app, the video feed never works when I try to use it what camera are you using? Did you replace your nozzle with a larger one by chance? I think the printer seems fine, just wish it was more polished and hope the ams has a retro fit for it. If you have contacts at anycubic should ask for them to do that plz. Last thing support, I can never get them to respond when opening tickets you have had different luck? Thanks!
Email has always been my best bet. I seem to have best response here. I’m using this video and the comment to show anycubic the common problems. Thanks for your feedback :-)
@@hobbytime66 what email address do you use for support, seems like I can only find their zendesk and sales, vip, or business at their domain.
@@sparkfire1223zendesk usually but the email I have is fdmsupport@anycubic3d.com
Man, I had huge layer shifting issues with this printer for about 3 days and had to use lasers and uv ink to finally find out what was wrong. They must really like you, I had tried to contact their customer service time after time and they would never reply. I even informed them of an engineering issue on this printer that will lead to layer shifts and they never got back to me. I’m going to charge them now for the procedure since they keep wasting money sending people replacement parts that have no issues in the first place.
How did you contact them
@@hobbytime66 I used their website and also used a QR redirect on the paperwork that they sent me. A couple of the printer parts were broken and I was missing the spool arm bracket. I ended up just making one on Fusion and printing a bigger one to fit larger spools.
@@pilot3729 damn that’s not good
So what was Wrong? Have the Same probleme
@@derkampfcookie1824 th-cam.com/video/pXLrxQgovqY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Cn3egAKRxKHoqerp I made a video on my other channel
How did you fix the Hotend problem?
The issue was the guide tube the hot end. It melts
Those LOTR prints 🔥
Thanks
Need help
My cut-off
Whenever printing
Pardon ?
Swap to Bi-Metal bi-metal heatbreak.
Thought about it. You have a brand you recommend