Its been a work in progress. I finished the bulk of it after the video and what I show works. When I do the final video I'll show how everything is placed and finalized. Thanks for watching!
@@tughillrc6327 brother after 40 years of building and flying Im merely a student. Always more to learn! Ive also found resources and time drive decision making. Knowing how to do it and the way you want verses having the resource or materials at the time are often two different things!
@@davidsnyder238 Given the rate of new technology, new airframes , and the level of education of the modeler it can never be assumed there is a true Jedi Master among us. There are many options on wiring and I believe the "Best Option" is the one that works the easiest for the end user. Other wise if it takes more than 5x the flight time to assemble the Model at the field to prepare it to fly, it is not acceptable to most.
Id put the ESC by or behind the motor and just run a signal wire out, seems so much of wire for voltage drop...I dunno im not in front ot it tho lol DEFINATLY needs a harness Love your vids keep it up!!!!
Thank you brother! Its very much a proof of concept. I thought the same as you did but you still have to run battery leads to the main fuselage as its not practical to put tge batteries in the booms. The test plane was flown with the ESC in the fuselage with the long leads so we will see! Its what the manual calls for!
I’m going dle 35 ra gas engines but still informative. Dave did ur hinge pin holes seem a bit over sized on some of the holes. Mine did. First time hanger9 kit. But still very happy with the airframe
Brad, excited for your build! Yes i fid have a few of the holes that were a little oversized. Overall though they were all close. Im very particular about hinges so I spent a fair amount of time making sure they were correct. Ill be doing o e more follow one video before maiden probably this week. Good luck with yours!
What is the reason you recommend not including the motor wires in the same tube as the signal wires? In my AL-37 they are all together with no issues at all.
The motor leads wouldn't fit through the same tube as there wasn't enough room. The second reason was the location of my Esc's were such that when the wires came into the main fuse they dropped directly behind each ESC by creating the secondary holes.
@@davidsnyder238 Ok, that makes sense now. Fantastic aircraft but a little too big for my situation. I will likely opt for the 70" one that should fit in my Highlander with a little engineering. Of course it's all about having reverse thrust capability with a trike gear aircraft :)
Hello David I see your using the Rimfire 170. Do you think it's worth going to the 180's instead. Very pricey upgrade. I'm not looking for fast I rather have a scale look. Whats your thoughts.
The 170s are turning the 22x10 props easily and with flaps pull tge Bronco off the ground in about 45 feet. Very quickly but the scale flying and logevity are good. Im getting nice 8-10 min flights with 6250 Roaring top batteries.
The Rimfire 1.70 is currently in stock at Gator RC. Also the power 160 or power 180 by eflite are suitable replacements. If I were unable to obtain the Rimfire the power 180 would be my next choice.
Thanks again for sharing, especially the wiring is something which keeps me thinking about how to do it most efficiently ... 🤪...
Its been a work in progress. I finished the bulk of it after the video and what I show works. When I do the final video I'll show how everything is placed and finalized. Thanks for watching!
looks like a plan...have a good one...
And a wiring diagram lol. Thanks for watching!
Wow lots of wires for sure, seems like a great plan, looking forward to the maiden, Jeff in LA USA
Thank you Jeff! I can see daylight and its not a freight train!
Looks like he you are having some fun 😉
Welcome to the world of ARF wiring David 😎👍✔
Its like scratch building, sometimes I think the wiring is a bigger pain in the butt than the build lol.
@@davidsnyder238 Ah but in order to become the Jedi Master you must first be a student.
@@tughillrc6327 brother after 40 years of building and flying Im merely a student. Always more to learn! Ive also found resources and time drive decision making. Knowing how to do it and the way you want verses having the resource or materials at the time are often two different things!
@@davidsnyder238 Given the rate of new technology, new airframes , and the level of education of the modeler it can never be assumed there is a true Jedi Master among us. There are many options on wiring and I believe the "Best Option" is the one that works the easiest for the end user. Other wise if it takes more than 5x the flight time to assemble the Model at the field to prepare it to fly, it is not acceptable to most.
@@tughillrc6327 Amen my friend! I hope your doing ok with everything also!
Id put the ESC by or behind the motor and just run a signal wire out, seems so much of wire for voltage drop...I dunno im not in front ot it tho lol DEFINATLY needs a harness Love your vids keep it up!!!!
Thank you brother! Its very much a proof of concept. I thought the same as you did but you still have to run battery leads to the main fuselage as its not practical to put tge batteries in the booms. The test plane was flown with the ESC in the fuselage with the long leads so we will see! Its what the manual calls for!
I agree somewhat Noonz either that or get a compatible 3 wire single point quick disconnect { like a trailer connector point }
I’m going dle 35 ra gas engines but still informative. Dave did ur hinge pin holes seem a bit over sized on some of the holes. Mine did. First time hanger9 kit. But still very happy with the airframe
Brad, excited for your build! Yes i fid have a few of the holes that were a little oversized. Overall though they were all close. Im very particular about hinges so I spent a fair amount of time making sure they were correct. Ill be doing o e more follow one video before maiden probably this week. Good luck with yours!
What is the reason you recommend not including the motor wires in the same tube as the signal wires? In my AL-37 they are all together with no issues at all.
The motor leads wouldn't fit through the same tube as there wasn't enough room. The second reason was the location of my Esc's were such that when the wires came into the main fuse they dropped directly behind each ESC by creating the secondary holes.
@@davidsnyder238 Ok, that makes sense now. Fantastic aircraft but a little too big for my situation. I will likely opt for the 70" one that should fit in my Highlander with a little engineering. Of course it's all about having reverse thrust capability with a trike gear aircraft :)
Hello David I see your using the Rimfire 170. Do you think it's worth going to the 180's instead. Very pricey upgrade. I'm not looking for fast I rather have a scale look. Whats your thoughts.
The 170s are turning the 22x10 props easily and with flaps pull tge Bronco off the ground in about 45 feet. Very quickly but the scale flying and logevity are good. Im getting nice 8-10 min flights with 6250 Roaring top batteries.
Couldn't find the motor RimFire 170 available in any store. What would be the alternative motor for this plane?
The Rimfire 1.70 is currently in stock at Gator RC. Also the power 160 or power 180 by eflite are suitable replacements. If I were unable to obtain the Rimfire the power 180 would be my next choice.
@@davidsnyder238 thanks a lot. Best regards.
What servos do you use?
Hitec 645 mw in all surfaces except the elevator. That got a digital Hitec 951