Thanks for the video; I've been building PCs since the 1980s and I've built hundreds. The first one I built was an Intel 286; In the forty years I've doing so I've never replaced thermal paste unless I was swapping the CPU or its cooling solution and I never had an issue with overheating computers. I clean all my PCs twice a year removing dust mainly.Thermal paste I leave alone. Over $20 for a square inch of thermal material puts the cost at $2880 for a square foot of the stuff; that is crazy expensive. I can buy three nVidia 4800 super GPUs for that kind of cash.
I am just a casual builder (2 thus far and current system is i7-2600K) however considering a new system since Windows 10 is about over and newer system with newer technology to work with Windows 11 or 12 by that time. What I like about considering the thermal sheets, is the idea of install and forget, no more repasting since I don’t do much gaming and continuing heat dissipation to the AIO water cooler. I generally render video’s then burn to DVD/Blu-Ray and a newer system would be so much faster processing the rendering etc., and don’t add/remove additional item’s later to the computer, more of long term build. Always good topic’s to share from a more expertise guru, keep it going! Lots of Fun!
This debate still going on? Been putting computers together for decades and it's still paste for me. I've never had a problem with pasting and repasting. And don't forget it's not just to keep air out but as a heat conductive layer from the toaster CPU to your heat sink drawing the heat away more efficiently and faster.
I havent tried any phasechange pads, but every other pad ive ever used gets out done by the most basic pastes. Last one i tried was a 20wmk pad compressed to half a millimeter. 10C+ difference at idle. Nope.. As long as you dont apply paste improperly, its better every time for me
I’ve done some testing with KryoSheet on GPU’s and they do great when used directly on the die. Usually as good as a premium past. The sheets keep the temps low while the paste starts to pump out and get higher temps over time.
I just repasted my GPU this weekend and noticed a lot of it had pushed out. The only reason I took it apart is because I broke the loop down and water accidentally dripped between the block and the card. So I had to tear it apart to make sure it was dry. I should have tried using a pad instead. Maybe next time.
@@CyberCPUI'm sorry. Why do all thermal paste reviewers say that there should be a minimum of it between adjacent surfaces, and then complain about it being squeezed out?
@@ДмитрийКа-я6б: That is a really good question. I see the same thing in woodworking. With glue, a little squeeze out is good, It shows complete coverage of the material but a large amount of squeeze out shows you have created a "layer" of glue, which will be a weakness. (and you have wasted glue) With the thermal paste "a little" is OK but I don't think that should be visible, until you actually tighten the cooler down. If you see squeeze out, when you set the on, you have too much. I don't like the idea of using a patterned application. I prefer spreading a thin coat. No mess, no waste. Just my opinion. 😁✌🖖
Great video, I change my thermal paste maybe once a year 'maybe', so for only a couple of degrees and much more money, I agree totally with you, paste it is!!!
Impressive result from the Kryosheet pad! It's nice to see some innovation in thermal pad design...I do watch Gamers Nexus, Hardware Unboxed, and Der Bauer a lot though, so I am definitely biased!
Most of TG's products I like and have used, however I still have a beef with their description of the 'graphene' pad. As a producer of true graphene, stacking it in the Z axis as they describe is only accurate to describing graphite. Graphene is a single atomic layer thick, aka, invisible to the naked eye. Working with it in any other form than liquid suspension makes it extremely difficult to even figure out what you're doing. Now it may have some graphene infused into it, but that also means adhering it to a substrate, which in my R&D, means placing it on a far less thermally conductive adhesive or thin film application material. Other than solutions I make myself, production quality paste is still one of the better one-part solutions for most people. The reusable pad only works if your part clearance falls within the closure range of your parts; some of the coolers I've used that pad on will bottom out and leave the pad 'floating' without contact for lack of a better term. The kryosheet showed up for a test some time back and I was rather disappointed in its performance. Versus a fresh paste, there was no discernable performance difference. Naturally when I pulled the cooler up to check that it was still in place, it tore apart with a portion still on the cooler base and the rest on the IHS.
I prefer and use Carbonaut. I changed two processors and three coolings. It is still intact and works flawlessly. From this point of view, it turned out to be cheaper than thermal paste ;) P.p. I also tried the first and second placement, but it didn't give me a single degree of difference. 5 uses already and still as good. No smudging, no drying
Nice review. My problem with a Carbonaut pad was that it had fused to my Ryzen 4750G after removing the cooler after a few weeks of use. A different cooler could be installed, but there was no removing the pad. I had to scrape it off.
To make the test as correct as possible, you should use Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extrem as the thermal conductive paste instead of Carbonaut. The best performing thermal paste is Grizzly Kryonaut Extrem
I'd like to also see the difference between these and the PTM7950. I'm tempted to pull the trigger for PTM7950 (Honeywell) as I also heard the more you use it the better it becomes overtime
An old plastic card such as an expired credit card, coffee filters and some strong IPA work very well to remove old thermal compound with minimum fuss.
For me it depends of what i need: pads are for situations on which i need not a huge thermal efficient solution but longer durability, thermal paste for efficient heat transfer but periodic (3 to 6 months) replacement and last: for other situations a mix of both. I have my own DIY thermal paste made of aluminum oxide, zinc oxide, liquid silicone and liquid vaseline with a bit of (tocopherol) vitamin E as preservative and if it is kept in a cool dark place can last for years without lose properties, it is reliable but not the best.
So have we decided on the best thermal paste patterns on the IHS? Choose between an "X", and "X" with a circle or square, concentric circles, or ONE BIG F-in blob in the center? Also have we decided on alternative pastes - toothpaste, epoxy A or B, #34 burnt umber paint, K-Y Jelly, or liquid steel?
If I used pads, I'd suggest to place down at an angle or roll it down to prevent air pockets from getting caught. Same while placing the heat sink. Like putting stickers or Scotch tape down, i.e. envisioning the pockets/bubbles.
I use the Honeywell phase change pads, forgot the name, for the CPU/GPU, and K5-Pro for the other chips in my 10750H/2060RTX laptop, works great. Heard the Honeywells don't work well in desktops if the cooler keeps the chips too cool for it to change.
I'm a bit curious. We've been using "Sil-pads" for audio amplifier power transistors for quite some time. They can be reused (unless they become damaged to the point that lose their electrical insulation characteristics). I wonder if a Sil-Pad were to be cut to work with a CPU, how it would compare (thermally) to an official CPU pad as "Sil-Pads" are significantly cheaper and have a lengthy history to them.
It's for the same reason that termal pads used on memory chips aren't used for CPU/GPU applications. Its thermal conductivity is very poor and wouldn't be able to keep up with the huge and fast temperture swings that a modern CPU/GPU can generate.
The carbon fiber thermal pads seem best suited for people who are constantly rebuilding PC. The soft pads is more like thermal paste that's dryer and is already in a form that's easier to apply, but because of it's price it's best used for long-long-long term use for Grandma's PCs who won't doing regular maintenance with it anyway since I assume it lasts longer than thermal paste?
Grizzly paste $8 on my 5700x3d $180 XFX 7900XT $580 and thermalright peerless assassin $28 3d mark stress tess never broke 65c just lovely since last xmas coming up on a great one year anniversary.
Yep. Very sus with their original vs second results. The sheet was either slightly torn, it shifted when mounting the cold plate, or the cold plate pressure wasn't the same as the first time. Those are the only reasons there should have been any variance at all.
I did go for the pads and sheats. No need to reaply. So much easier! Just clean the dust from time to time and that is it! And so close to paste that difference is meaningless.
You still have residue after the paste has been removed, so Alcohol should be used next. --- Also, are these electrically conductive, (meaning, could they short out some other component next to what your trying to cool down)?
Maybe I’ve had bad pads - I tried using one with an AMD A8-5557G, a laptop part, and temps were significantly higher in my Gigabyte BRIX mini-PC. Same with my i7-4720HQ laptop, paste worked much better even though the laptop was thermally constrained regardless. The thermal pad simply shot up so much faster…
I used my first pad on the i9 14900k. I don’t overclock but have bench things numerous times. I installed it 7 months ago, mine actually ran a 2c lower but I think had a bad paste job so I can’t attribute the drop to the pad. 7 months, temps have been consistent Idle 30c. MW3 after hours of play, 60c in game.
I use a paper towel corner, that was dipped into 90% ISO Alcohol. Wipes off in seconds. If in the pin slots, or wires going to socket, a alcohol soaked Q-tip gets those clean.
No, pads are superior by far! - One aplication for life and the same heat transfer always. - On a mini pc like mine in an Dan-A4 disassembling takes a week. The confort of not removing your components is important. Once i was reaplying paste every year, the most expensive termal paste i could find, and always looking at the charts and tests. Conclusion - ALL termal paste dry on a GPU in couple of month, on CPU in 1 year even it does not dry, termal conductivity is droping hard. The pads advantages are too big.
* Thermal Pads: * Pros: Easy to install, no mess, reusable (some models). * Cons: Slightly higher temperatures compared to thermal paste, can be delicate and prone to damage. * Thermal Paste: * Pros: Lower temperatures, more durable, widely available. * Cons: Messy to apply, requires reapplication every few years. Overall Conclusion: While thermal pads offer convenience, thermal paste generally provides better cooling performance. The choice between the two depends on your priorities: * If you prioritize ease of installation and cleanliness, thermal pads are a good option. * If you prioritize optimal cooling performance, thermal paste is the better choice. Ultimately, the best solution for you will depend on your specific needs and preferences.
I have a 'uniform' I wear working on computers. Grey dress pants and grey golf shirt. Thermal paste grey. I use Arctic MX-6 and Peerless Assassin twin tower CPU cooler. I also make sure I use a case with good airflow, because that makes a much larger difference. I have built over two dozen systems and still on the first $10 tube of thermal paste. Talk about bang for your buck.
For me it's going to be paste But the real question is how in the world do you get rid of the Google drop down arrow on the left hand top corner it's creating screenshots of everything you go to and I do not like it
i use occt to test the new (used parts) build i made for my son. it will stress everything to 100%. it is a little overkill, but i wanted to test it for a worse case senerio.
Not all paste is the same and not all pads are the same. You need to compare the specs. Thermal paste dries and cracks over time and should be replaced every 2 to 5 years.
Such good hardware in a system and then only a "Thermaltake Smart 700W" power supply ?? That thing has only an 80+ (no silver, no gold, not even bronze) Rating and is in "Tier C • Low-end" of the PSU tier list. For 10€ more you can get a be quiet! pure power 11 700W with 80+ gold. And that thing is in "Tier B • Mid-range". For 40€ more you can get a NZXT C750 Gold or Corsair RM 750W - which are both 80+ gold and are in the "Tier A • High-end" category. You definitely cheaped out on the wrong component there mate
Many people don't like that power supply. However, I've installed hundreds of them and they work good for me. I've been using them for several years since it's been harder to get EVGA power supplies and I've had really good luck with them. However, you're right. You can get a different power supply for relatively close to the same price.
LOL, this exact question came up literally less than twenty-four hours ago on a major gaming forum. I already gave my opinion on them (been using them for a decade). They're 3C - 5C worse than paste on the high end (less on the low), but this doesn't matter unless you're trying to do extreme overclocking. They're set it and forget it, and can be reused if you need to do frequent disassembly for travel purposes and should only tear if you're rough with them. Not sure why you're saying Kryosheet isn't reusable when it is. Is it thinner and more likely to tear than the Carbonaut or IC pad? Yes. So if you're that stressed out about a possible tear, get either of the latter two. There's a 2C difference between them and the Kryosheet. Also the second Kryosheet test vs original is sus. There's no reason it should be a degree off besides variance in cold plate pressure or sheet shifting.
F! realism when testing the ability to keep CPU temp under control. You want to test the absolute worst you can achieve. If the system handles that then it will always be able to handle normal use. I worked building servers for many years and a part of the testing for every server was to run for 24 hours using the most sadistic tests possible in a hot room with 40°C temp and not have any problem with CPU temp approaching throttling and errors or warnings in the system log. When a server could survive that there were very little risk of it ever having a problem when used in a data center. The temp in those are usually pinned at 20°C and they are designed with hot and cold isles. That is when walking in between two rows of computers you either have only the fronts or the backs of the computers in both rows against you. And the air flow is always from front to back, that makes them blow "cold" air from one isle and exhale "hot" air to the other. The air conditioning is also built to blow cold air into the cold isles and extract hot air from the hot isles. So testing a system doesn't have to be under a "realistic" load. Torture it! that's how you see just what the worst possible load would do to it. Just because right now the worst realistic load isn't all that bad doesn't mean no one won't make a program that really uses every resource to the max in the future. Build so the computer can handle that and you never have to worry about it.
The thermal pad is so fragile. Reusable? It will tear when used once as it will stick to the CPU heat spreader. The pre-cut sizes. Only used on specific CPUs. I go back to paste. Waste of my money.
Replaced a IC graphite pad with the KryoSheet by thermal grizz. Not much impressed. No real temp difference from the older IC patch. Graphene and the Z axis lattice for heat direction did not do much. Being generous I might have gained 25 to 50 mhz per core at full load. Not nothing but , not something enough to justify over paste or generic patch. The IC patch was fine and reused several times. 14 vs 21 $ Edit . Ic 40x40 now 16$
I don't know why people keep coming into this thinking the pads were supposed to perform *better* than paste, when they've never been claimed to do that. The claim was that they were just as good, and in most scenarios they are.
Because as the ad said u can use the Win10 key to upgrade to Win11. You can use the key even on a clean install of Windows11. Yes MS will offer security updates forr Win10 after Oct 2025 if you pay $30 USD per year per computer apparently.
i wanted to try the pads but then i saw pictures of people moaning they ripped it to shreds before they got it on the cpu so kinda put me off....its not reusable if you smash it to pieces so easily. Just stick to the paste if you are hulk sausage fingers.
The point is that you never have to remove the heat sink with the pad, unless you're doing it because you need to take a heavy cooler off to transport it. They don't dry out.
One degree is maybe nothing but add up one degree with every improvement u make and before u know it you have 5 degrees C different. For instance I am using push and pull because that gives me 1 degree difference, am using thermal grizzly hydronaut extreme instead of stock thermal paste because that gives me 2 degree diffrence, am using a contact frame that gives me 4 degree difference…. It’s a lot of work and money but I mean it adds up. And I am really happy my CPU runs 5 degrees cooler so it lasts longer and doesn’t burn itself out like my 14900K did (I know that was due to Microcode issues but still).
@@pvdgucht It doesn't add up in any meaningful way unless you're either doing an extreme OC, or already using a CPU that is terribly inefficient and uses a high amount of wattage anyway. One degree is not "five degrees". It's one degree. This test was flawed anyway though, because it's actually between 3 - 5C difference in favor of paste once you start going up in watts (220+). The 1C - 2C difference is only at low to medium loads. If you're happy with paste, keep using it. This is all about convenience anyway.
@ Well yeah I use intel aka terribly inefficient 🤷♂️😅🥲. Idk I like my CPU to run 5 degrees slower. I will indeed keep using paste because yes I am pushing 300 Watts in an all core workload
What are you talking about? If you're actually mounting the heat sink with the correct mounting pressure, the pads won't slide. What are you doing, taking your PC over train tracks? The only time they have a chance to slide is when you're first trying to mount the heat sink. That's the only time there's anything to worry about.
Thanks for the video; I've been building PCs since the 1980s and I've built hundreds. The first one I built was an Intel 286; In the forty years I've doing so I've never replaced thermal paste unless I was swapping the CPU or its cooling solution and I never had an issue with overheating computers. I clean all my PCs twice a year removing dust mainly.Thermal paste I leave alone. Over $20 for a square inch of thermal material puts the cost at $2880 for a square foot of the stuff; that is crazy expensive. I can buy three nVidia 4800 super GPUs for that kind of cash.
I'll always use paste because it gives me a reason to clean the entire system :)
For enthusiasts who have too much money. The good old MX4 remains my number 1. The video was great.
Todays sponsor same as everyday's sponsor. You have a good channel, you should be able to get more than one.
Thank you! very timely review sir! i just bought my first pads to try out. new subscriber as well.
I am just a casual builder (2 thus far and current system is i7-2600K) however considering a new system since Windows 10 is about over and newer system with newer technology to work with Windows 11 or 12 by that time.
What I like about considering the thermal sheets, is the idea of install and forget, no more repasting since I don’t do much gaming and continuing heat dissipation to the AIO water cooler. I generally render video’s then burn to DVD/Blu-Ray and a newer system would be so much faster processing the rendering etc., and don’t add/remove additional item’s later to the computer, more of long term build.
Always good topic’s to share from a more expertise guru, keep it going! Lots of Fun!
about time someone put out a video about this i was wondering about this thank you
This debate still going on? Been putting computers together for decades and it's still paste for me. I've never had a problem with pasting and repasting. And don't forget it's not just to keep air out but as a heat conductive layer from the toaster CPU to your heat sink drawing the heat away more efficiently and faster.
Replacing the air pockets with the paste _is_ what increases heat transfer.
@@louf7178 That's what they said.
@@williamjones4483 The OP seems to be separating the two.
The Honeywell phase changing pads are excellent and better then alot of pastes out there
I havent tried any phasechange pads, but every other pad ive ever used gets out done by the most basic pastes.
Last one i tried was a 20wmk pad compressed to half a millimeter. 10C+ difference at idle. Nope..
As long as you dont apply paste improperly, its better every time for me
I’ve done some testing with KryoSheet on GPU’s and they do great when used directly on the die. Usually as good as a premium past. The sheets keep the temps low while the paste starts to pump out and get higher temps over time.
I just repasted my GPU this weekend and noticed a lot of it had pushed out. The only reason I took it apart is because I broke the loop down and water accidentally dripped between the block and the card. So I had to tear it apart to make sure it was dry. I should have tried using a pad instead. Maybe next time.
@@CyberCPUI'm sorry.
Why do all thermal paste reviewers say that there should be a minimum of it between adjacent surfaces, and then complain about it being squeezed out?
@@ДмитрийКа-я6б: That is a really good question.
I see the same thing in woodworking. With glue, a
little squeeze out is good, It shows complete coverage
of the material but a large amount of squeeze out
shows you have created a "layer" of glue, which will
be a weakness. (and you have wasted glue)
With the thermal paste "a little" is OK but I don't think
that should be visible, until you actually tighten the
cooler down. If you see squeeze out, when you set the
on, you have too much. I don't like the idea of using a
patterned application. I prefer spreading a thin coat.
No mess, no waste. Just my opinion. 😁✌🖖
Great video, I change my thermal paste maybe once a year 'maybe', so for only a couple of degrees and much more money, I agree totally with you, paste it is!!!
Impressive result from the Kryosheet pad! It's nice to see some innovation in thermal pad design...I do watch Gamers Nexus, Hardware Unboxed, and Der Bauer a lot though, so I am definitely biased!
More meaningful n accurate comparison is with same constant room temperature, was it?
nice detail in your review.
Great video, thank you.
I'm using paper tissues to remove old paste. Clean and easy.
Most of TG's products I like and have used, however I still have a beef with their description of the 'graphene' pad. As a producer of true graphene, stacking it in the Z axis as they describe is only accurate to describing graphite. Graphene is a single atomic layer thick, aka, invisible to the naked eye. Working with it in any other form than liquid suspension makes it extremely difficult to even figure out what you're doing. Now it may have some graphene infused into it, but that also means adhering it to a substrate, which in my R&D, means placing it on a far less thermally conductive adhesive or thin film application material. Other than solutions I make myself, production quality paste is still one of the better one-part solutions for most people. The reusable pad only works if your part clearance falls within the closure range of your parts; some of the coolers I've used that pad on will bottom out and leave the pad 'floating' without contact for lack of a better term.
The kryosheet showed up for a test some time back and I was rather disappointed in its performance. Versus a fresh paste, there was no discernable performance difference. Naturally when I pulled the cooler up to check that it was still in place, it tore apart with a portion still on the cooler base and the rest on the IHS.
I prefer and use Carbonaut. I changed two processors and three coolings. It is still intact and works flawlessly. From this point of view, it turned out to be cheaper than thermal paste ;)
P.p. I also tried the first and second placement, but it didn't give me a single degree of difference. 5 uses already and still as good. No smudging, no drying
I use KPX and I have no complaints
Nice review. My problem with a Carbonaut pad was that it had fused to my Ryzen 4750G after removing the cooler after a few weeks of use. A different cooler could be installed, but there was no removing the pad. I had to scrape it off.
Great video, I've learnd something today, I'll stay with the paste LOL.
To make the test as correct as possible, you should use Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extrem as the thermal conductive paste instead of Carbonaut. The best performing thermal paste is Grizzly Kryonaut Extrem
Thanks - Useful information.
I'd like to also see the difference between these and the PTM7950. I'm tempted to pull the trigger for PTM7950 (Honeywell) as I also heard the more you use it the better it becomes overtime
I second the motion to make this video happen
An old plastic card such as an expired credit card, coffee filters and some strong IPA work very well to remove old thermal compound with minimum fuss.
For me it depends of what i need: pads are for situations on which i need not a huge thermal efficient solution but longer durability, thermal paste for efficient heat transfer but periodic (3 to 6 months) replacement and last: for other situations a mix of both. I have my own DIY thermal paste made of aluminum oxide, zinc oxide, liquid silicone and liquid vaseline with a bit of (tocopherol) vitamin E as preservative and if it is kept in a cool dark place can last for years without lose properties, it is reliable but not the best.
I guess someone must be buying those sheets
So have we decided on the best thermal paste patterns on the IHS? Choose between an "X", and "X" with a circle or square, concentric circles, or ONE BIG F-in blob in the center? Also have we decided on alternative pastes - toothpaste, epoxy A or B, #34 burnt umber paint, K-Y Jelly, or liquid steel?
If I used pads, I'd suggest to place down at an angle or roll it down to prevent air pockets from getting caught. Same while placing the heat sink. Like putting stickers or Scotch tape down, i.e. envisioning the pockets/bubbles.
I use the Honeywell phase change pads, forgot the name, for the CPU/GPU, and K5-Pro for the other chips in my 10750H/2060RTX laptop, works great. Heard the Honeywells don't work well in desktops if the cooler keeps the chips too cool for it to change.
6:54 man just did magic 🎩
I'm a bit curious. We've been using "Sil-pads" for audio amplifier power transistors for quite some time. They can be reused (unless they become damaged to the point that lose their electrical insulation characteristics).
I wonder if a Sil-Pad were to be cut to work with a CPU, how it would compare (thermally) to an official CPU pad as "Sil-Pads" are significantly cheaper and have a lengthy history to them.
It's for the same reason that termal pads used on memory chips aren't used for CPU/GPU applications. Its thermal conductivity is very poor and wouldn't be able to keep up with the huge and fast temperture swings that a modern CPU/GPU can generate.
The carbon fiber thermal pads seem best suited for people who are constantly rebuilding PC. The soft pads is more like thermal paste that's dryer and is already in a form that's easier to apply, but because of it's price it's best used for long-long-long term use for Grandma's PCs who won't doing regular maintenance with it anyway since I assume it lasts longer than thermal paste?
Grizzly paste $8 on my 5700x3d $180 XFX 7900XT $580 and thermalright peerless assassin $28 3d mark stress tess never broke 65c just lovely since last xmas coming up on a great one year anniversary.
I have the Kryosheet, you can reuse it, if the sheet is in good shape.
Yep. Very sus with their original vs second results. The sheet was either slightly torn, it shifted when mounting the cold plate, or the cold plate pressure wasn't the same as the first time. Those are the only reasons there should have been any variance at all.
Thanks
would have liked to see how PTM7950 compared
I use HY880 on my i9-9900k and it works well.
Love the T shirt, dude! 🤣🤣🤣🤣 😁✌🖖
I did go for the pads and sheats. No need to reaply. So much easier!
Just clean the dust from time to time and that is it!
And so close to paste that difference is meaningless.
You still have residue after the paste has been removed, so Alcohol should be used next.
---
Also, are these electrically conductive, (meaning, could they short out some other component next to what your trying to cool down)?
Like I said, I would mispronounce them.
Maybe I’ve had bad pads - I tried using one with an AMD A8-5557G, a laptop part, and temps were significantly higher in my Gigabyte BRIX mini-PC. Same with my i7-4720HQ laptop, paste worked much better even though the laptop was thermally constrained regardless. The thermal pad simply shot up so much faster…
LOL, I've been using Artic SIlver since it was invented, never felt the need for anything else, and yea, it can be messy. Cryosheet looks interesting.
I used my first pad on the i9 14900k.
I don’t overclock but have bench things numerous times. I installed it 7 months ago, mine actually ran a 2c lower but I think had a bad paste job so I can’t attribute the drop to the pad.
7 months, temps have been consistent
Idle 30c. MW3 after hours of play, 60c in game.
I am building my son a case. Regardless of being happy with the pad, I am pasting new PC.
I use a paper towel corner, that was dipped into 90% ISO Alcohol. Wipes off in seconds. If in the pin slots, or wires going to socket, a alcohol soaked Q-tip gets those clean.
I'm surprised by the KryoSheet.
"Put some of that kryo sh*t (with European accent) on" 😁
I use KryoSheet. if your carefull and dont rip it you can use it again. So it is not correct what Thermal Grizzly tells you. Btw, rags can be washed.
No, pads are superior by far!
- One aplication for life and the same heat transfer always.
- On a mini pc like mine in an Dan-A4 disassembling takes a week. The confort of not removing your components is important.
Once i was reaplying paste every year, the most expensive termal paste i could find, and always looking at the charts and tests.
Conclusion - ALL termal paste dry on a GPU in couple of month, on CPU in 1 year even it does not dry, termal conductivity is droping hard. The pads advantages are too big.
I wish you could compare these sheets with Kryonaut Extreme paste.
What is your best windows version
can we try to soak those pads in isopropyl alcohol and reuse it?
* Thermal Pads:
* Pros: Easy to install, no mess, reusable (some models).
* Cons: Slightly higher temperatures compared to thermal paste, can be delicate and prone to damage.
* Thermal Paste:
* Pros: Lower temperatures, more durable, widely available.
* Cons: Messy to apply, requires reapplication every few years.
Overall Conclusion:
While thermal pads offer convenience, thermal paste generally provides better cooling performance.
The choice between the two depends on your priorities:
* If you prioritize ease of installation and cleanliness, thermal pads are a good option.
* If you prioritize optimal cooling performance, thermal paste is the better choice.
Ultimately, the best solution for you will depend on your specific needs and preferences.
chatgpt ahh reply
@Raghav-gd3fn yup , used chatgpt.
I have a 'uniform' I wear working on computers. Grey dress pants and grey golf shirt. Thermal paste grey.
I use Arctic MX-6 and Peerless Assassin twin tower CPU cooler. I also make sure I use a case with good airflow, because that makes a much larger difference.
I have built over two dozen systems and still on the first $10 tube of thermal paste. Talk about bang for your buck.
How about vs liquid metal?
For me it's going to be paste
But the real question is how in the world do you get rid of the Google drop down arrow on the left hand top corner it's creating screenshots of everything you go to and I do not like it
i use occt to test the new (used parts) build i made for my son. it will stress everything to 100%. it is a little overkill, but i wanted to test it for a worse case senerio.
You forgot the PTM7950.
Why is this still ongoing???
#CyberCPUTech... Thermal paste or thermal pads are designed to cool your AIO cooler and not your CPU, you should know this.
What is the purpose of an AIO cooler? To cool your CPU. Did you bother to watch the video?
Not all paste is the same and not all pads are the same. You need to compare the specs. Thermal paste dries and cracks over time and should be replaced every 2 to 5 years.
I'll stick with tampons thank you, Ha!
I use carbon fiber sheets. Reusable, too.
Such good hardware in a system and then only a "Thermaltake Smart 700W" power supply ??
That thing has only an 80+ (no silver, no gold, not even bronze) Rating and is in "Tier C • Low-end" of the PSU tier list.
For 10€ more you can get a be quiet! pure power 11 700W with 80+ gold. And that thing is in "Tier B • Mid-range".
For 40€ more you can get a NZXT C750 Gold or Corsair RM 750W - which are both 80+ gold and are in the "Tier A • High-end" category.
You definitely cheaped out on the wrong component there mate
Many people don't like that power supply. However, I've installed hundreds of them and they work good for me. I've been using them for several years since it's been harder to get EVGA power supplies and I've had really good luck with them.
However, you're right. You can get a different power supply for relatively close to the same price.
is it safe to put thermal paste+thermalpad on the cpu ?
I wouldn't. For one, it would make kind of a mess and for two, overusing thermal paste could possibly have the side effect of becoming an insulator.
LOL, this exact question came up literally less than twenty-four hours ago on a major gaming forum.
I already gave my opinion on them (been using them for a decade). They're 3C - 5C worse than paste on the high end (less on the low), but this doesn't matter unless you're trying to do extreme overclocking.
They're set it and forget it, and can be reused if you need to do frequent disassembly for travel purposes and should only tear if you're rough with them.
Not sure why you're saying Kryosheet isn't reusable when it is. Is it thinner and more likely to tear than the Carbonaut or IC pad? Yes. So if you're that stressed out about a possible tear, get either of the latter two. There's a 2C difference between them and the Kryosheet. Also the second Kryosheet test vs original is sus. There's no reason it should be a degree off besides variance in cold plate pressure or sheet shifting.
These pads should be 5 bucks each.
F! realism when testing the ability to keep CPU temp under control. You want to test the absolute worst you can achieve. If the system handles that then it will always be able to handle normal use. I worked building servers for many years and a part of the testing for every server was to run for 24 hours using the most sadistic tests possible in a hot room with 40°C temp and not have any problem with CPU temp approaching throttling and errors or warnings in the system log.
When a server could survive that there were very little risk of it ever having a problem when used in a data center. The temp in those are usually pinned at 20°C and they are designed with hot and cold isles. That is when walking in between two rows of computers you either have only the fronts or the backs of the computers in both rows against you. And the air flow is always from front to back, that makes them blow "cold" air from one isle and exhale "hot" air to the other. The air conditioning is also built to blow cold air into the cold isles and extract hot air from the hot isles.
So testing a system doesn't have to be under a "realistic" load. Torture it! that's how you see just what the worst possible load would do to it. Just because right now the worst realistic load isn't all that bad doesn't mean no one won't make a program that really uses every resource to the max in the future. Build so the computer can handle that and you never have to worry about it.
The thermal pad is so fragile. Reusable? It will tear when used once as it will stick to the CPU heat spreader. The pre-cut sizes. Only used on specific CPUs. I go back to paste. Waste of my money.
Replaced a IC graphite pad with the KryoSheet by thermal grizz. Not much impressed. No real temp difference from the older IC patch. Graphene and the Z axis lattice for heat direction did not do much. Being generous I might have gained 25 to 50 mhz per core at full load. Not nothing but , not something enough to justify over paste or generic patch. The IC patch was fine and reused several times. 14 vs 21 $ Edit . Ic 40x40 now 16$
I don't know why people keep coming into this thinking the pads were supposed to perform *better* than paste, when they've never been claimed to do that. The claim was that they were just as good, and in most scenarios they are.
@@Neonmirrorblack I though the new graphene Kryosheet would perform better than the older graphite sheets. Still like the no mess , no dry out perks.
With less than 11 months left for Win. 10, why would I waste my money on it? Will MS continue to offer security updates after Oct., 2025?
Because as the ad said u can use the Win10 key to upgrade to Win11. You can use the key even on a clean install of Windows11. Yes MS will offer security updates forr Win10 after Oct 2025 if you pay $30 USD per year per computer apparently.
With the kyrosheet putting it in the fridge first to cool it helps when installing this will help with them ripping
i wanted to try the pads but then i saw pictures of people moaning they ripped it to shreds before they got it on the cpu so kinda put me off....its not reusable if you smash it to pieces so easily. Just stick to the paste if you are hulk sausage fingers.
No debate really. I use the sheets. I do water cooled builds and don't need the mess or it drying out over time.
One degree C difference is nothing. Use any paste and forget pads.
The point is that you never have to remove the heat sink with the pad, unless you're doing it because you need to take a heavy cooler off to transport it.
They don't dry out.
One degree is maybe nothing but add up one degree with every improvement u make and before u know it you have 5 degrees C different.
For instance I am using push and pull because that gives me 1 degree difference, am using thermal grizzly hydronaut extreme instead of stock thermal paste because that gives me 2 degree diffrence, am using a contact frame that gives me 4 degree difference…. It’s a lot of work and money but I mean it adds up. And I am really happy my CPU runs 5 degrees cooler so it lasts longer and doesn’t burn itself out like my 14900K did (I know that was due to Microcode issues but still).
Oh and I forgot I moved the AIO on the front as intake instead of on top that also makes about 1 degree difference haha 😆.
@@pvdgucht It doesn't add up in any meaningful way unless you're either doing an extreme OC, or already using a CPU that is terribly inefficient and uses a high amount of wattage anyway.
One degree is not "five degrees". It's one degree.
This test was flawed anyway though, because it's actually between 3 - 5C difference in favor of paste once you start going up in watts (220+). The 1C - 2C difference is only at low to medium loads.
If you're happy with paste, keep using it. This is all about convenience anyway.
@ Well yeah I use intel aka terribly inefficient 🤷♂️😅🥲. Idk I like my CPU to run 5 degrees slower. I will indeed keep using paste because yes I am pushing 300 Watts in an all core workload
which is better? thermal pad or thermal paste? Thermal paste is better, the end.
oh and air cooling. bye.
Best to use phase change material: Honeywell PTM7950, Upsiren PCM-1, Gelid HeatPhase Ultra, Thermalright Heilos, Thermal Hero Pad, Thermal Grizzly PhaseSheet.
Thermal pads slide if jolted too much. Paste is the only option for the long term.
Yes, paste it on for sure.
What are you talking about? If you're actually mounting the heat sink with the correct mounting pressure, the pads won't slide. What are you doing, taking your PC over train tracks?
The only time they have a chance to slide is when you're first trying to mount the heat sink. That's the only time there's anything to worry about.
One of the first comments here on this video.
Yes, we are all impressed.
This is a very limited comparison scenario. Therefore, of no real value.
if u have been building customers pcs on amd fx series,u arent already the smartest guy on the earth...