Amazing episode. Thank you guys!! One suggestion/request. Any way possible you guys can do an episode with prime motoring? They are doing some WILD builds as of lately. I would love to hear you guys discuss Subarus together. Thanks again! Have a wonderful weekend ❤
Excellent video, really interesting. Question, when talking billet wheels vs cast, and the weight savings from using billet, how much does a typical billet wheel weigh, and how much for a cast one of the same type?
Thanks for watching and thanks for the question. I believe Matt said 20% to 30% was possible with billet wheels, but he may chime in and confirm,=. Stay Tuned!
Thanks for the informative video. Question: How much WHEEL horsepower did the Turbo Dynamics MDX555-450 turbo make on your Pikes Peak racecar? At what altitude?
Thanks for watching and thanks for your question. We are currently making about 420 whp, and we have seen a couple of other cars in this area make a bit more on the MDX555-450. We are at 5,200 feet in elevation, but the Pikes Peak start line is 9,000 feed. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Great content. As a road Subaru user sports cat comparisons would be interesting. I have a 100 cell from reputable manufacturer but it noticeably doesn’t work 85% of the time. Product comparison would be so good. Maybe partner up with Duncan Graham? Best NM
Curious if you guys have ever dyon'd manifolds back to back. I have a home brew setup with a JDM manifold merged into a single scroll with ebay 20g. Aside from having to port the wastegate to make that turbo work, it spools seemingly really well compared to my other car with a stock iron manifold and VF52. The VF52 feels awful in comparison. Granted, the cars are very different. But still it seems like that cast iron manifold is just wildly restrictive. Considering duplicating the setup, or even just retrofitting the JDM twin scroll on the VF52 car for a nicer boost curve.
Hi flatirons, Matt. Is there a turbo option for someone who is not interested in increasing peak power output above say 315whp out of a vf series, but more interested in moving that torque curve as far left of the chart as possible?
for example can i just buy a vf which is the exact same in every way except with a ball bearing centre and billet compressor wheel? meaning it will spool like 800 rpm earlier but still maintain the peak power figure
Thanks for your question. I'd first recommend taking a look at the VF48 High Flow as that would get you to the power target you have, and will spool up very close to a standard VF48. www.flatironstuning.com/ihi-vf48-hi-flow Beyond that, it is worth keeping in mind that moving torque to an earlier point in the RPM range, especially compared to a stock turbo, is very challenging. The turbo plays a part in this certainly, but so does engine design with things like cams, cam phasing, etc. If you focus too much on building torque to early in the RPM range, it can yield poor results and have negative effects in the rest of the rpm range. It is usually much better to focus on getting as wide a useable torque curve as possible, with much less of an emphasis on where the peak torque starts. Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
If it was possible to do with the engines internals remaining the same than Subaru would have done it. The EJ being pretty much a dog off boost due to low compression ratio plays a role and if you build it to perform its peaks at a lower rpm you'd have to consider intake manifold, cams but every aftermarket option I know of shifts the curve higher towards the top end. Tuning out the low end torque is a common method for tuners to help prolong the life of stock and built EJ's. Oem rods are a weak point but at 315 you should be safe ??😅😊
Best oil for your Subaru can be found at Walmart and it’s rotella 5w40 and I use rotella straight 30 weight for breaking in I do 3 oil changes under 100 miles, rotella 30 weight is cheap and really good oil. Then I run 5w40 the whole life of the engine. I run rotella 5w40 synthetic in everything synthetic just means filtered oil where the molecules are the same size. Making lubrication better all the way around picture riding on a sheet of plywood with golf balls all the same size, then throw some soft balls under their and try to ride it. Not the same is it. Well that’s oil on a molecular level. Synthetic will always be cleaner and better
Lack of lube will Kill any set of balls… words from my great grandpa journeyman mechanic millwright haha. Never forget it 92 years old and said that haha
Amazing episode. Thank you guys!!
One suggestion/request. Any way possible you guys can do an episode with prime motoring? They are doing some WILD builds as of lately. I would love to hear you guys discuss Subarus together.
Thanks again! Have a wonderful weekend ❤
Thanks for watching and thanks for the suggestion. I will add it to our list.
Stay Tuned!
Excellent from both parties, keep the Subarus alive
Thanks very much!
Stay Tuned!
Awesome discussion.
Thanks for watching! Stay Tuned!
Excellent video, really interesting. Question, when talking billet wheels vs cast, and the weight savings from using billet, how much does a typical billet wheel weigh, and how much for a cast one of the same type?
Thanks for watching and thanks for the question. I believe Matt said 20% to 30% was possible with billet wheels, but he may chime in and confirm,=.
Stay Tuned!
@@FlatironsTuning I was actually asking about the outright weight - does a billet wheel weigh 100 grams? 500 grams? 1kg? More?
Great video, very informative. Keep it up!
Thanks very much!
Stay Tuned for more :-)
Thanks for the informative video. Question: How much WHEEL horsepower did the Turbo Dynamics MDX555-450 turbo make on your Pikes Peak racecar? At what altitude?
Thanks for watching and thanks for your question. We are currently making about 420 whp, and we have seen a couple of other cars in this area make a bit more on the MDX555-450. We are at 5,200 feet in elevation, but the Pikes Peak start line is 9,000 feed.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
Great content. As a road Subaru user sports cat comparisons would be interesting. I have a 100 cell from reputable manufacturer but it noticeably doesn’t work 85% of the time. Product comparison would be so good.
Maybe partner up with Duncan Graham?
Best
NM
Curious if you guys have ever dyon'd manifolds back to back. I have a home brew setup with a JDM manifold merged into a single scroll with ebay 20g. Aside from having to port the wastegate to make that turbo work, it spools seemingly really well compared to my other car with a stock iron manifold and VF52. The VF52 feels awful in comparison. Granted, the cars are very different. But still it seems like that cast iron manifold is just wildly restrictive. Considering duplicating the setup, or even just retrofitting the JDM twin scroll on the VF52 car for a nicer boost curve.
Hi flatirons, Matt. Is there a turbo option for someone who is not interested in increasing peak power output above say 315whp out of a vf series, but more interested in moving that torque curve as far left of the chart as possible?
for example can i just buy a vf which is the exact same in every way except with a ball bearing centre and billet compressor wheel? meaning it will spool like 800 rpm earlier but still maintain the peak power figure
@martinburnett3852 IHI actually make a high flow series of the vf48 and vf49 that would spool same as stock but give more output and torque.
Thanks for your question. I'd first recommend taking a look at the VF48 High Flow as that would get you to the power target you have, and will spool up very close to a standard VF48.
www.flatironstuning.com/ihi-vf48-hi-flow
Beyond that, it is worth keeping in mind that moving torque to an earlier point in the RPM range, especially compared to a stock turbo, is very challenging. The turbo plays a part in this certainly, but so does engine design with things like cams, cam phasing, etc.
If you focus too much on building torque to early in the RPM range, it can yield poor results and have negative effects in the rest of the rpm range.
It is usually much better to focus on getting as wide a useable torque curve as possible, with much less of an emphasis on where the peak torque starts.
Hope that helps and Stay Tuned!
If it was possible to do with the engines internals remaining the same than Subaru would have done it. The EJ being pretty much a dog off boost due to low compression ratio plays a role and if you build it to perform its peaks at a lower rpm you'd have to consider intake manifold, cams but every aftermarket option I know of shifts the curve higher towards the top end. Tuning out the low end torque is a common method for tuners to help prolong the life of stock and built EJ's. Oem rods are a weak point but at 315 you should be safe ??😅😊
Best oil for your Subaru can be found at Walmart and it’s rotella 5w40 and I use rotella straight 30 weight for breaking in I do 3 oil changes under 100 miles, rotella 30 weight is cheap and really good oil. Then I run 5w40 the whole life of the engine. I run rotella 5w40 synthetic in everything synthetic just means filtered oil where the molecules are the same size. Making lubrication better all the way around picture riding on a sheet of plywood with golf balls all the same size, then throw some soft balls under their and try to ride it. Not the same is it. Well that’s oil on a molecular level. Synthetic will always be cleaner and better
Lack of lube will Kill any set of balls… words from my great grandpa journeyman mechanic millwright haha. Never forget it 92 years old and said that haha