Blasters are garbage. You can get really good base cards in the .25 boxes at card shows. I like buying rookies who are more than half way through their career and on a Hall of Fame trajectory.
I agree on what cards to grade. I only suggest grading a card for 2 reasons: 1) Is it a long term/forever card for your own collection that you want to preserve? 2) Is it a card that you have examined very hard and is in Mint Condition front, back and edges that you want to sell? Otherwise, just keep it in a sleeve and toploader and then store in a box, special book for toploaded cards or in a closed display case. You should have goals for your collection and a game plan to acheieve that goal. Set a reasonable budget and stick to it. Don't use a Credit Card, unless you are paying off that card to $0 owed each month. For storage, I have switched to the BCW 3,200 count plastic storage bins. They have locking tops, 4 rows of storage capacity, stack extremely well on top of each other and have a place for cards to be displayed on the front, so you know what you put in there. I am replacing the cardboard boxes I have used for years with these bins. I can stack more bins and store a lot of cards. They can also become a display box if I rent a table at a card show. As to what I have planned to collect, within my budget and have a chance of reaching my goals, I buy lots on eBay. Since buying boxes is getting more and more difficult, odds are getting worse to getting what I want/need and prices of ones you can find are astronomical, I buy bulk lots. I am a set builder, so I need common cards and star cards. I buy singles to fill in the blanks from my bulk buys. As of late, Box Breaks give the "gamblers" who buy in a stack of cards that they usually don't want and are happy to unload them to recoup some of their money. I buy those for cheap. They also don't usually sell cards on eBay, so they don't always list them properly and at the best times to get maximum bids. I take advantage of misspelled listings that get missed by others and the ones that end on a night/morning when most people aren't looking at auctions. When it comes to what I think will hold value in the future, it comes down to brand/set, team, player, rookie vs vet, and print runs. A Dodger player and a Yankee player have a better chance to hold value. A quality veteran player is better than a nobody rookie. Insert sets aren't a priority to collect, unless it us a numbered parallel. Topps is licensed and Panini isn't, so I don't collect Panini. I will work to build a parallel variation set, over the base set and I know what the approximate print runs are for all non-numbered cards in the sets I am building.
@Sportscardhustlers I started with 1 to test and now I have 30, LOL! Slowly buying 4 at a time now, because they are cheaper in the 4 box set. I still have about 10 "3 row shoe box" cardboard boxes to replace, so I will probably buy another set of them every other month, until I am completely switched over.
Card shows. That's all 😂. If you are a collector. Card shows. Don't buy retail at all lol. The half off bins and 1 and 5 dollar boxes are my best friend. Hasn't failed me yet. Saves a lot of money and space. Just my opinion. Have a blessed 🙌 day.
As a cubs fan, 90%of my collection is PSA graded TOPPS RC base cards . It feels special to have the same base Topps series rookies of the players who have played in Wrigley for 70+ years. My collection feels like a Chicago history book. 1952 Ernie banks to 1961 Ron Santo, 1983 Ryne Sandberg, 1999 Kerry Wood, 2015 Kris Bryant, 2024 Imanaga & PCA. I collect what I love, not chasing for bunch of bs paul skenes green wave refractor autos 😂😂
I have never sent in a card to be graded. I don't see the value in it. I know those that do it are going to get all riled up, but hear me out. My cards are my PC and I have no intention of selling any of them nor am I particularly concerned about the value of individual cards or as a whole. One argument I hear from the grading boys is the protection the slabs offer. Fair point, but are you handling your cards in a such way that a one touch or toploader sleeve combo isn't enough protection? Think about it. Another argument I hear is people saying it's so that when your cards are passed along after you die, it's ensuring value. Let's be honest - a lot of dealers are shady and will lowball the hell out of someone who brings in a collection saying "these belonged to my late husband". Do you think they're automatically going to say "this is a PSA 10 and comps are x, so I will offer you 70% of x". I think a lot of people send cards in to get graded because they like the challenge of seeing if they can pick out cards and what grades they will get and then getting that validation upon delivery of said graded cards is like a crack high.
Yea I’m leery about the grading process over the past few years as well. If it was less than $5 to grade a card, then I’m all for it. But when it costed me $40+ to grade a card, not worth it to me.
I have just been collecting Hall of famers and border line hall of famers and players today who I think might make the Hall of Fame like otani,judge ect. You pay 35-40 for a box and you get $5 worth of cards back
@@LoVEFoRTHEHoBBY Especially with retail lately. A lot of people on here feel all the real great cards are given to breakers now. Would really be a shame if that is true.
My PSA 10 2011 Bowman Draft Mike Trout would disagree with you. That was merely a cheap base at one point, and it's more condition sensitive that the chrome stuff because it's a black paper border. I'm glad I had that graded way back before it was considered premium.
I agree with graded base in general, but admit I picked up a grade 10 Ohtani RC and O'Neil Cruz RC. No regrets. Paid about $50 each and even if it never turns into anything I'll be happy holding onto them.
The hobby will always go through those buzzy periods where non-collectors suddenly want in and they are paying exorbitant amounts of money for things like high-grade base rookies of recognizable names. If you're looking to make money, buy those PSA 10 base rookies real cheap and unload when we have our next COVID-like era.
Well I've spent around 200 bucks in the last month and I've gotten a bo jackson score sp two different psa 8 barry bonds rookies one psa 8 kobe rookie caitlyn clark rookie anthony Bourdain a&g base brock bowers base mark mcgwire psa 8 rickey henderson rookie raw. All for the price of a stadium club hobby box. All I'm trying to say is singles are way better than buying wax at this point. My collection looks better by doing so
I PC a HoF finalist but yet to be inducted. I enjoy opening boxes as I am also a set builder, but in all honesty the ONLY graded cards I look at are KEY / under-appreciated rookies of notable players. The good thing about where I am buying is that I am selling the hot players in order to buy my next boxes. I also avoid flagship products like the plague. Bowman, Donruss, Topps, no thanks. I may grab some if I find them on discount, but I prefer to buy the complete sets at the end of the year, and maybe grab a couple of the updated series. I'll take a box of Chrome though, or Bowman Platinum, or Zenith. These products tend to have decent inserts and haven't been horrible on quality coming out of the boxes. I've still pulled some huge cards, just not as frequently. Biggest one was a Wander Franco (yikes) 1 of 1 RC Platinum Pairings out of a $14 retail box; odds were 1:700000+ for packs.
Completely agree about the graded base. Like what? Just grade the stuff that’s worth 1 of 2 things. A) Worth something to you (base isn’t worth anything to anyone) and/or B) Cards valued over $50 in raw condition. Those are my typical rules of thumb. Love this video!!!
When it comes to grading as well, go to the PSA pop report and look at how that set has been graded by them so far. I answer two questions through the numbers: * What’s the odds of a PSA 10 ? (Ceiling) * What’s the odds of a PSA 9 or better ? (Floor)
Completely agree about the graded base. Like what? Just grade the stuff that’s worth 1 of 2 things. A) Worth something to you (base isn’t worth anything to anyone) and/or B) Cards valued over $50 in raw condition. Those are my typical rules of thumb. Also, with your point of buying the blaster or the single, you can’t put a value on the thrill of the chase. Some people value you that just as high, and think buying singles is the easy way out. PLUS, if you’re singles off eBay, what are the chances that person put a card that will grade well up for sale? I always wonder that. Love this video!!! Great discussion.
What boggles my mind is how an Ohtani or Judge etc base RC PSA 10 Chromes can be worth a few hundred bucks with like pops of 5000+ but like a much lower pop rookie of the same player in the same 10 grade are only a fraction, such as an Ohtani 2018 Topps Throwback Thursday #107. This card, which I think some people consider it to be a 'base' perhaps not, has a pop of only 138 but most would put its value much less than the 'popular' base chrome or even Topps paper rookie cards. I think over time the less known rookies cards rise in value but the pop differences are insane and obviously the print run differences as well. Enjoyed the video!
What is the best way to sell Raw Baseball Cards from the late 1980's and early 1990's? I was thinking selling by Player, for example Don Mattingly, Tony Gwynn, Wade Boggs, etc. Thanks for the advice!
I would check eBay to see what cards you have and what price they are going for. I made a video about this a few months back, go back and watch that and it should help! You could also go to local card shows and try to swing some deals as well. Face to face always has a chance of getting better deals than online because you can barter.
Seems like hardly anyone wants to collect players like it was back in my childhood. It’s all about flipping the hot player. All about money instead of preference. Topps and panini are printing like it’s 1992! So hard to hit now days unless you’re a breaker. Retail products used to be a collectors friend, but the card manufacture’s want the good cards pulled by breakers on camera.
Depending on the 1 of 1 or auto, it could be worth it. But I don’t agree with grading base cards other than maybe getting a good price from a lcs or card show to add some pizzazz to your collection. I would never send base cards in to grade. I waited 4 months to get a ohtani /25 get graded and it cost me around $40. Why would I want to spend $40 on a base card to get graded, wait months and then I could open a pack and get it again? I don’t understand that but that’s just me! If you want to grade stuff, go for it! Thanks for checking in!
@Sportscardhustlers I can MAYBE see the Auto, I am NOT grading a 1 of 1, doesn't make any sense at all, there almost the same concept, 1 of 1, only YOU own it, BASE cards, EVERYBODY owns them ....
Depends what vintage you are talking about. But if you can get a good deal with any time period, then go for it. And it’s all about what you may want to have for your personal collection and then what you may want to pass on to the younger generation.
Different people collect sports cards for different reasons. Perhaps your reasons are not relevant for other people? For example, I'm a set collector who tries to collect master set (base plus all parallels) to the best of my ability, and I don't really care about condition as much when it took me 10+ years to find the #'d to 50 parallel of James Loney that I desperately need to finish off my set. Also, few people will ever want to buy my completed sets when I'm ready to sell. They're just going to want the HOFers. But it's no fun for me to just buy the HOFers. Some would say I'm wasting my time. But I don't see it that way. Perhaps your advice is more for people who want to invest, not just collect?
It is definitely more for investors. But at the end of the day, collect what you like! And personally, I am just like you and like to open boxes with my kids and collect. We like to complete sets (right now my son is trying to collect all the prospect inserts from bowman 2024 (the ranking cards) without going on eBay). Thanks for commenting!
No offense but you don't make money in this hobby to support your own PC by buying boxes. That's called gambling. This is not good advice. You should be promoting buying quality raw singles to grade OR doing some DD in the sport/player and decide if there is longer term or short term value to be had with graded cards.
Nosey children. Keep your expensive cards locked up. My kids have knocked shoe boxes over. Kids will mess your collection up. And when they become teens their friends or they will steal valuable cards. If you have real value, a lock box at the bank.
@@PutskiPutski What I do is tell them that my collection will eventually be your collection. This will have them treat “their” collection with respect and show them how I organize, which ones I plastic up, etc. Works wonders. It’s a kids hobby and love that they love opening packs with me. That’s what it’s all about.
@ oh heck yeah, we just blasted two display cases of pokemon cards. We took a bath, but the enjoyment they had was priceless. They know the ropes and it’s more my error, leaving too many boxes out.
@@kens7432 base rookie cards r ok to grade if they are top tier players.. but people today r grading everyone… an average player rookie base card should NOT be graded..I see 2 dollar boxes at cards shows of graded cards.. stop grading all those !!!!!!
Blasters are garbage. You can get really good base cards in the .25 boxes at card shows. I like buying rookies who are more than half way through their career and on a Hall of Fame trajectory.
Same here! Thanks for commenting!
That's my wheelhouse
Yes and you can even find decent inserts and parallels in the $0.50, $1.00, $2.00 boxes.
I agree on what cards to grade. I only suggest grading a card for 2 reasons: 1) Is it a long term/forever card for your own collection that you want to preserve? 2) Is it a card that you have examined very hard and is in Mint Condition front, back and edges that you want to sell? Otherwise, just keep it in a sleeve and toploader and then store in a box, special book for toploaded cards or in a closed display case.
You should have goals for your collection and a game plan to acheieve that goal.
Set a reasonable budget and stick to it. Don't use a Credit Card, unless you are paying off that card to $0 owed each month.
For storage, I have switched to the BCW 3,200 count plastic storage bins. They have locking tops, 4 rows of storage capacity, stack extremely well on top of each other and have a place for cards to be displayed on the front, so you know what you put in there. I am replacing the cardboard boxes I have used for years with these bins. I can stack more bins and store a lot of cards. They can also become a display box if I rent a table at a card show.
As to what I have planned to collect, within my budget and have a chance of reaching my goals, I buy lots on eBay. Since buying boxes is getting more and more difficult, odds are getting worse to getting what I want/need and prices of ones you can find are astronomical, I buy bulk lots. I am a set builder, so I need common cards and star cards. I buy singles to fill in the blanks from my bulk buys. As of late, Box Breaks give the "gamblers" who buy in a stack of cards that they usually don't want and are happy to unload them to recoup some of their money. I buy those for cheap. They also don't usually sell cards on eBay, so they don't always list them properly and at the best times to get maximum bids. I take advantage of misspelled listings that get missed by others and the ones that end on a night/morning when most people aren't looking at auctions.
When it comes to what I think will hold value in the future, it comes down to brand/set, team, player, rookie vs vet, and print runs. A Dodger player and a Yankee player have a better chance to hold value. A quality veteran player is better than a nobody rookie. Insert sets aren't a priority to collect, unless it us a numbered parallel. Topps is licensed and Panini isn't, so I don't collect Panini. I will work to build a parallel variation set, over the base set and I know what the approximate print runs are for all non-numbered cards in the sets I am building.
@@jpacrylicstudio145 Great comment! Thank you for offering your point of value, much appreciated!!
Just bought one of those BCW boxes…def. an upgrade over the cardboard! Thanks for the info!
@Sportscardhustlers I started with 1 to test and now I have 30, LOL! Slowly buying 4 at a time now, because they are cheaper in the 4 box set. I still have about 10 "3 row shoe box" cardboard boxes to replace, so I will probably buy another set of them every other month, until I am completely switched over.
Just bought 2 of them storage boxes for my top loaded cards. Thanks for the info I haven’t seen them before
Card shows. That's all 😂. If you are a collector. Card shows. Don't buy retail at all lol. The half off bins and 1 and 5 dollar boxes are my best friend. Hasn't failed me yet. Saves a lot of money and space. Just my opinion. Have a blessed 🙌 day.
@@DustinSrLenzo indeed! And you as well! Thanks for checking in!
You can never go wrong buying Harold Baines rookies... never..
As a cubs fan, 90%of my collection is PSA graded TOPPS RC base cards . It feels special to have the same base Topps series rookies of the players who have played in Wrigley for 70+ years. My collection feels like a Chicago history book.
1952 Ernie banks to 1961 Ron Santo, 1983 Ryne Sandberg, 1999 Kerry Wood, 2015 Kris Bryant, 2024 Imanaga & PCA.
I collect what I love, not chasing for bunch of bs paul skenes green wave refractor autos 😂😂
I have never sent in a card to be graded. I don't see the value in it. I know those that do it are going to get all riled up, but hear me out. My cards are my PC and I have no intention of selling any of them nor am I particularly concerned about the value of individual cards or as a whole.
One argument I hear from the grading boys is the protection the slabs offer. Fair point, but are you handling your cards in a such way that a one touch or toploader sleeve combo isn't enough protection? Think about it.
Another argument I hear is people saying it's so that when your cards are passed along after you die, it's ensuring value. Let's be honest - a lot of dealers are shady and will lowball the hell out of someone who brings in a collection saying "these belonged to my late husband". Do you think they're automatically going to say "this is a PSA 10 and comps are x, so I will offer you 70% of x".
I think a lot of people send cards in to get graded because they like the challenge of seeing if they can pick out cards and what grades they will get and then getting that validation upon delivery of said graded cards is like a crack high.
Yea I’m leery about the grading process over the past few years as well. If it was less than $5 to grade a card, then I’m all for it. But when it costed me $40+ to grade a card, not worth it to me.
I have just been collecting Hall of famers and border line hall of famers and players today who I think might make the Hall of Fame like otani,judge ect. You pay 35-40 for a box and you get $5 worth of cards back
@@LoVEFoRTHEHoBBY Especially with retail lately. A lot of people on here feel all the real great cards are given to breakers now. Would really be a shame if that is true.
New subscriber here. Completely agree on your comment on base card grading! That should be reserved for premium only. Thanks for sharing!
@@CodaSportsCards thanks for the sub! Check out our other videos if you are new!
My PSA 10 2011 Bowman Draft Mike Trout would disagree with you. That was merely a cheap base at one point, and it's more condition sensitive that the chrome stuff because it's a black paper border. I'm glad I had that graded way back before it was considered premium.
I agree with graded base in general, but admit I picked up a grade 10 Ohtani RC and O'Neil Cruz RC. No regrets. Paid about $50 each and even if it never turns into anything I'll be happy holding onto them.
@@DonaldSmith-n4l Nice! Def the right ones to get!
Yeah but those are rookies, on top of that hof
The hobby will always go through those buzzy periods where non-collectors suddenly want in and they are paying exorbitant amounts of money for things like high-grade base rookies of recognizable names. If you're looking to make money, buy those PSA 10 base rookies real cheap and unload when we have our next COVID-like era.
Well I've spent around 200 bucks in the last month and I've gotten a bo jackson score sp two different psa 8 barry bonds rookies one psa 8 kobe rookie caitlyn clark rookie anthony Bourdain a&g base brock bowers base mark mcgwire psa 8 rickey henderson rookie raw. All for the price of a stadium club hobby box. All I'm trying to say is singles are way better than buying wax at this point. My collection looks better by doing so
Agreed! Thanks for commenting!
Staring at my display case, I should put my idiot brain in there next to jordan
@@unconditionedcitizen 🤣
I PC a HoF finalist but yet to be inducted. I enjoy opening boxes as I am also a set builder, but in all honesty the ONLY graded cards I look at are KEY / under-appreciated rookies of notable players. The good thing about where I am buying is that I am selling the hot players in order to buy my next boxes. I also avoid flagship products like the plague. Bowman, Donruss, Topps, no thanks. I may grab some if I find them on discount, but I prefer to buy the complete sets at the end of the year, and maybe grab a couple of the updated series. I'll take a box of Chrome though, or Bowman Platinum, or Zenith. These products tend to have decent inserts and haven't been horrible on quality coming out of the boxes. I've still pulled some huge cards, just not as frequently. Biggest one was a Wander Franco (yikes) 1 of 1 RC Platinum Pairings out of a $14 retail box; odds were 1:700000+ for packs.
@@KH-vv5dq Thanks for all the info! Good luck!
Completely agree about the graded base. Like what? Just grade the stuff that’s worth 1 of 2 things. A) Worth something to you (base isn’t worth anything to anyone) and/or B) Cards valued over $50 in raw condition. Those are my typical rules of thumb.
Love this video!!!
@@George_D_13 Preciate that!!!
When it comes to grading as well, go to the PSA pop report and look at how that set has been graded by them so far. I answer two questions through the numbers:
* What’s the odds of a PSA 10 ? (Ceiling)
* What’s the odds of a PSA 9 or better ? (Floor)
Great info, thanks!
I agree with you. A base card from an Allen & Ginter X would have a lower pop count so it might be good to grade a RC base if has a chance to gem.
Completely agree about the graded base. Like what? Just grade the stuff that’s worth 1 of 2 things. A) Worth something to you (base isn’t worth anything to anyone) and/or B) Cards valued over $50 in raw condition. Those are my typical rules of thumb.
Also, with your point of buying the blaster or the single, you can’t put a value on the thrill of the chase. Some people value you that just as high, and think buying singles is the easy way out. PLUS, if you’re singles off eBay, what are the chances that person put a card that will grade well up for sale? I always wonder that.
Love this video!!! Great discussion.
Thanks!!
What boggles my mind is how an Ohtani or Judge etc base RC PSA 10 Chromes can be worth a few hundred bucks with like pops of 5000+ but like a much lower pop rookie of the same player in the same 10 grade are only a fraction, such as an Ohtani 2018 Topps Throwback Thursday #107. This card, which I think some people consider it to be a 'base' perhaps not, has a pop of only 138 but most would put its value much less than the 'popular' base chrome or even Topps paper rookie cards. I think over time the less known rookies cards rise in value but the pop differences are insane and obviously the print run differences as well. Enjoyed the video!
Thanks!
Popularity
What is the best way to sell Raw Baseball Cards from the late 1980's and early 1990's? I was thinking selling by Player, for example Don Mattingly, Tony Gwynn, Wade Boggs, etc. Thanks for the advice!
I would check eBay to see what cards you have and what price they are going for. I made a video about this a few months back, go back and watch that and it should help! You could also go to local card shows and try to swing some deals as well. Face to face always has a chance of getting better deals than online because you can barter.
I got rid of all that crap years ago. My life has improved so much since then.
Michael Jordan. 🐐
@@markarcarisi7275 w/o a doubt!
If the player is a stud and it’s mint plus , you can grade base
True. Thx for commenting!
Seems like hardly anyone wants to collect players like it was back in my childhood. It’s all about flipping the hot player. All about money instead of preference. Topps and panini are printing like it’s 1992! So hard to hit now days unless you’re a breaker. Retail products used to be a collectors friend, but the card manufacture’s want the good cards pulled by breakers on camera.
@@DavidMacPherson-r8v Yup! Totally agree! It does feel like 1992 all over again. Crazy times. Thanks for the comment.
Okay, Thanks for the information!
No prob! Let me know if you need any help or have any questions!
It’s like all those rookie qp aka Kenny picket or paying for those breaks garbage
Right...that's why I don't understand why you guys grade auto's and 1 of 1s 😮
Depending on the 1 of 1 or auto, it could be worth it. But I don’t agree with grading base cards other than maybe getting a good price from a lcs or card show to add some pizzazz to your collection. I would never send base cards in to grade. I waited 4 months to get a ohtani /25 get graded and it cost me around $40. Why would I want to spend $40 on a base card to get graded, wait months and then I could open a pack and get it again? I don’t understand that but that’s just me! If you want to grade stuff, go for it! Thanks for checking in!
@Sportscardhustlers I can MAYBE see the Auto, I am NOT grading a 1 of 1, doesn't make any sense at all, there almost the same concept, 1 of 1, only YOU own it, BASE cards, EVERYBODY owns them ....
Why not just buy vintage? Everything else is just gambling and speculation
Depends what vintage you are talking about. But if you can get a good deal with any time period, then go for it. And it’s all about what you may want to have for your personal collection and then what you may want to pass on to the younger generation.
Different people collect sports cards for different reasons. Perhaps your reasons are not relevant for other people? For example, I'm a set collector who tries to collect master set (base plus all parallels) to the best of my ability, and I don't really care about condition as much when it took me 10+ years to find the #'d to 50 parallel of James Loney that I desperately need to finish off my set. Also, few people will ever want to buy my completed sets when I'm ready to sell. They're just going to want the HOFers. But it's no fun for me to just buy the HOFers. Some would say I'm wasting my time. But I don't see it that way. Perhaps your advice is more for people who want to invest, not just collect?
It is definitely more for investors. But at the end of the day, collect what you like! And personally, I am just like you and like to open boxes with my kids and collect. We like to complete sets (right now my son is trying to collect all the prospect inserts from bowman 2024 (the ranking cards) without going on eBay). Thanks for commenting!
Comment insider
@@DaSteamingDemon Sorry for the delay you can access the insider club here. 👉 sportscardhustler.com
No offense but you don't make money in this hobby to support your own PC by buying boxes. That's called gambling. This is not good advice. You should be promoting buying quality raw singles to grade OR doing some DD in the sport/player and decide if there is longer term or short term value to be had with graded cards.
You make a really good point. But, I do promote buying singles over anything, that is def the way to go.
Nosey children. Keep your expensive cards locked up. My kids have knocked shoe boxes over. Kids will mess your collection up. And when they become teens their friends or they will steal valuable cards. If you have real value, a lock box at the bank.
@@PutskiPutski What I do is tell them that my collection will eventually be your collection. This will have them treat “their” collection with respect and show them how I organize, which ones I plastic up, etc. Works wonders. It’s a kids hobby and love that they love opening packs with me. That’s what it’s all about.
@ oh heck yeah, we just blasted two display cases of pokemon cards. We took a bath, but the enjoyment they had was priceless. They know the ropes and it’s more my error, leaving too many boxes out.
graded base cards of players in any sports it trash.. I hope people stop grading base cards.. please STOP !!!!
Right!!
@@leehaskins307 what if it’s a players rookie card? I hear the players base rookie card is what you want?
@@kens7432 base rookie cards r ok to grade if they are top tier players.. but people today r grading everyone… an average player rookie base card should NOT be graded..I see 2 dollar boxes at cards shows of graded cards.. stop grading all those !!!!!!
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I don’t know if you were serious or not but here is the link in case you were:
👉 sports-card-hustlers.kit.com/0d1350b138
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Sorry for the delay you can access the insider club here. 👉 sportscardhustler.com