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Ford 5.4L 3v Engine Timing Walkthrough
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 พ.ย. 2014
- This is the only Complete Timing Kit I recommend-
www.amazon.com/...
This is the proper tool for aligning the crankshaft-
www.amazon.com/...
This is the tool needed for roller follower removal-
www.amazon.com/...
This is the cam timing tool Kit Here-
www.amazon.com/...
In this video I walk you through the complete timing procedure of the 4.6L & 5.4L 3 valve engines of all years.
Torque Specs--
Timing Guide Bolts- 89 in lbs
Timing Chain Tensioner Bolts- 216 in lbs
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16 years old and just did an entire timing job with phasers and everything it’s runs good thank you Brian for describing everything very well your videos were super helpful watched the 4 part series. If you watch his videos anyone can do it
That’s awesome dude
Good job man!
Thats what up bro keep it up!!!
@@daddybear7062 kmmm&umimmo]
I’m about to give it a go my self if you did it I can
I have never owned a Ford pickup truck that I love watching this mechanic work!❤
I forgot to mention these videos are top notch. And great info for anyone servicing these engines. Couldn’t have done it without these videos.
Slow paced, informative, and no cuts. Excellent video
This guy is awesome. He does a wonderful job explaining what to do. He includes torque specs, which come in handy. I look forward to future videos.
every owner of the 3V will eventually need to watch this video lol. thanks for the post.
Do not buy timing sets from car ID also they're the same b******* garbage phasers take it from a guy who's having to do this twice trust me you do not want to have to do it twice unless of course you're some type of masochist
CARiD will tell you that they are Ford phasers do not believe them they lie I tried them anyway big mistake
@@gene5 your first mistake was to go to CARID😂
7 years fucking later fords still doing ford things
Thank you for all the great videos. I used your 4 part series to repair my truck that sounded like a loud diesel. I found a seized roller follower on the #7 exhaust valve. It chewed up the cam on my 04. You gave me the confidence to go deep in this motor with your excellent video series. If it wasnt for you this truck would have met the scrap heap but instead its ready for another 100k. Thanks again and keep them coming.
How is she doing?
Any updates on her
You sir are the best! Ford not so much, still cursing at the lack of engineering on this 07 f150 Lariat. I have been driving it for a year and I would joke that the truck was a diesel hybrid to my passengers because of the way it ran after warm up...as soon as you drove over 1000 rpm then came to a slow down or stop the rpm would drop out and make the diesel chattering sound. When you increased rpm the engine would right it self. The truck ran great on the hi-way just a pain in town. VCT solenoids suspected.
Finally tackled the job.
Dropping the oil pan is not so simple, as well as the valve covers..oh my! I did the exhaust manifolds while I was at it, what a crazy job. No space on passenger side as I had (2) broken studs (Back and front of eng.) to remove and 1 on driver side. These were broken before working on them...thanks Ford. Had to remove starter and a/c comp. to get access to back broken stud & passenger manifold out. After disconnecting steering for access had to grind out and retapp driver side broken exhaust stud at the back (closest to firewall) after 2 extractor s broke and 2 drill bits broke in hole. Tough angle to get drill into! Die grinder...yes...very time consuming.
The timing guide failed on passenger side. The mechanism of failure was the spring tensioners gasket failed on both Gaskets, after removal clearly pushed out and visual oil tracking on the head is visible, causing chains to loose tension and over time wearing against tensioners to the point of failure. Chewed up the passenger side real good. The chewed up plastic then restricted the oil pump intake causing low oil pressure. Thankfully this occurred in my drive way!
Changed VCT solenoids, Timing chains, sprocket, tensioners, guides, oil pump, water pump etc. The Cam phaser appeared to be in good shape... changed with new bolts though. Thanks again for all your clear and concise help.
Tim Ferguson Good day. Is it possible to change hydrants from plastic to an iron explorer 4.6L 2007 goda.i why the chain rattles on the warmed-up engine
Hey, First I want to compliment you on the detail in your videos and for taking the time to put them together and help out us DIY auto guys . I have worked in the Nuclear Industry for the past 35 years . Most of that as a pipe Welder and Machinist until I got old and tired and recently started Supervising . Since my first car I have done most of my own work ( except tranny rebuilds lol ) man has to know his limits . But as the years have gone on the complexity of most work other than routine maintenance has gotten tougher on us DIYers . Thank God for TH-cam and those like you . Now for the question I have watched this video as well as your cam phaser change out video . And I am a little confused ( easily done ) In the vid on the phasers you show the crank key or spoke at 12 o clock then once the rockers are removed from the 1,4,5 and 8 cylinders you rotate to the 6 o clock position for the cam phaser change out keeping the cams in a neutral position. On this vid you show the keyway at the 11 o clock position which puts the timing mark on the sprocket at exactly 6 o clock ( I notice your cam bearing caps are lose) so all the valves should be unable to open .I am assuming that even if they were tight and the proper rockers were removed the cams they would still be neutral ? I am doing the Phasers as well as all timing chains adjusters ext. which process should I use ? Thanks again for all of your videos . They have been the best ones on TH-cam that I have seen dealing with these 5.4s
Kenny Hall I noticed the same thing what did you figure out on that I mean which process did you end up going with the 12 o’clock 11 o’clock or 6 o’clock position I’m doing the phasers and whole oil pump and timing chain replacement to
Excellent video Brian. You sure make sense of the whole timing procedure. Seems so much easier now after watching this. Thanks for posting this.
I just had this done and my engine guy said that I had less than 20 miles until shit was to come apart glad i saw these videos and got all that done with the right parts.
Me and my son just fixed his 05 ford f150 fx4 with the 5.4 lthanks to you and your video I appreciate you doing this
Thanks for all the help , your videos are awesome, did the phasers and timing chain , saved a lot of money. Truck runs like new!!!
FordTechMakuloco thanks for sharing this video I was really getting stressed out about timing this motor I could not figure out those cam timing marks until I watched this video now that I understand the concept now it all makes sense and is really pretty simple lol thanks
I’m an Audi tech, and I’m so glad I’ve never had to touch those pos fords. Audis are so much easier and enjoyable to work on. I’m saying this with full sincerity. People think Audis are horrible and that they’re really hard to work on, they’re really not lol. They make simple engines and everything on them makes sense. Timing chains might be in the rear but that’s about the only odd thing. If you have to do chains on a 2.0 turbo you just pull the front of the car off and it’s right there. Takes 3-4 hours. And we don’t really see chains fail on any of the other engines, just guides mostly. I just completely rebuilt the 2.0 turbo 4 banger from my 2016 A4 and I rebuilt the 3.0 supercharged V6 in my 2014 SQ5 these past two weeks and they were both pretty fun jobs and nothing gave me a hard time. Biggest thing to pay attention to is using the correct special tools for the timing and making sure to pretension the cam adjusters before torquing the bolts. Everything else is simple engine stuff, cleaning takes the longest out of anything. Both cars running perfect now. Anytime I look at fords or dodges or any Asian car I feel disgusted. I work at a dealer and I don’t know why but I found myself replacing one of the 2.4L engines in a Honda Accord and I was pissed off about it because the connectors were so incredibly stupidly designed and the subframe bolt torques made absolutely no sense. Also the parts back from Honda they gave me they didn’t label any bolts and they all looked the exact same with slight differences and I was just like bruh tf is this. But yeah I did the Honda engine and then I had another accord too that I did the rear main seal and that balance shaft cover on. Those were equally as stupid. I couldn’t imagine working on anything other than Audis. I used to be a used car tech and I think front axles on an F250 were pretty easy and then I did an evap canister on a Buick Encore which was pretty easy and some work on a hellcat which was pretty straight forward. But still, I’d take Audi any day of the week. Everything simply makes sense.
BE SURE YOU LINE UP TO THE CORRECT TIMING MARKS ON THE PHASERS!!! After spending 30 hours this weekend doing timing chains, oil pump, lash adjusters, rockers, cam phaser lockout, and more, my truck ran really rough, and threw a P0345 code. I went back through my pictures of the job (always a good idea to take lots of pictures), and noticed that I lined up the LH phaser is lined up to the "R" mark, not the little dot opposite the "R". This is telling the PCM that the phaser is 180 degress out of phase from where it should be, and of course the ignition/fuel timing is therefore WAYYY off.
DONT MAKE THIS STUPID MISTAKE LIKE ME!!!
+scmike1229 True I go over this pretty well in this video and really well in my new video coming out soon to help people out.
For the record, I did the same thing. Only difference is I looked at my pictures before buttoning her back up. My stomach sank when I started thinking about the correct compression / exhaust stroke for cylinder #1 at TDC. So I took my search to the forums and that really made things confusing. After a good amount of research, watching Brian's videos, and reading his comments some learning occurred. Essentially the cams create the compression / ehaust stroke not the crankshaft. Moral of the story, I took all the roller followers back out and I'm the process of re-timing with the crank at the 11 o'clock using the tool. Like the old saying goes, "Measure twice cut once!" Not fun doing the roller followers twice but I've always learned things the hard way.
Awesome video!!! I've been looking all over for some guidance on the engine timing for my F-150 that i'm about about to do a complete timing system replacement on. You just saved my ass a lot of time and effort! Thanks
To install the followers... just install the ones where the lobe is at base circle then rotate crankshaft and istall the rest of the followers? Then after all done rotate crankshaft again in the position it was originally?
Great video! I did this repair to my '05 this weekend. This video was was the make or break for me.
How do you know that you on the right compression stroke?
My thoughts exactly
I was thinking exactly the same thing... I'm like don't you have to make sure #1 cylinder is TDC first???? 🤔
Love how to replies don't answer the question
If you don’t know the answer to that question you shouldn’t be working on it …
by far the best 3v timing video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How do u install roller fillers after the timing process
I Love your videos!! Thanks to you, Im learning at the speed of Light about my truck, engines, timing, all of it! Thanks to *your* spark plug video, I got my #4 and #8 plugs out (especially #8) because they had the *exact* same issue you covered in your video with the Lisle tool. Just want to say a Huge *THANK YOU* and keep em coming!! You earned my subscription back before I started the plugs, and if I could subscribe again I would!!
Michael Allen Nice!
Just remove the spark plugs ??? Or the roller follower to????
Finally a great video on this subject. Thank you. I going to do this to mine in the near future.
I've said this before. This man is a master what's Ford modular motors, great mechanic he was in my he would do my stuff if I had enough money where I don't have to do it myself
my first 5.4 timing chain job wow what a job but this video was very helpful even to a trained tech thank you
I would love to see you do a video on a 2v 4.6!
Just subscribed. Great work! Very Professional! I work in the mechanic field myself. The Bosch is part of my arsenal. You may consider adding the craftsman 90 degree rechargeable tool as well. between that and the bosch ur flying without dragging air lines :)
All these videos on 5.4L 3 valve and nobody mentions CRANKshaft position sensor.
You may as well throw the camshafts in the sewer if you're not going to be in harmony with the cranshaft and it's a $34 part for Motorcraft genuine part from Rock Auto.
WTF dog come on!
This took 25 years off my life because everyone screams camshaft camshaft camshaft.
I wonder how many people throw away vehicles because they gave up not knowing about the crankshaft position sensor.
I do love your videos and you're the first person I look to for 5.4L advice.
Keep up the good work. I hope you're making bank on these millions of views.
Not sure what your rant is about exactly. If you are asking why I didn't change the crank sensor, well it's simple they never ever fail.
@@FordTechMakuloco I had a fan belt (serp belt) failure while on the road over in Miami. A loose strand hanging off whipped through the harness going to the VCT solenoids & position sensors. Bought all 4 parts, reworked the harnesses and all was great, for about 2 years. Then it began backfiring, really bad, on startup but ran fine once it was running. Checked all harness under the hood and no lingering damage from the serp belt event. Then I turned on a video by Ford and first thing the man says is "These camshaft position sensors work in coordination with the crankshaft sensor and my head about exploded. Replaced the crank position sensor and it's like a brand new motor. I had already called the junkyard about bringing in the truck and the title. Now I have my truck back and it cost me $34.
Nice!
@@FordTechMakuloco nice indeed. If we didn't have pain we would never know joy!
You are my mechanic Jesus. I follow your vids to the word and the job always ends up being a lot easier than I expected. Thank for your service....
Very Clear,Clean, Concise, and Complete. Thanks for posting.
Francais
It cracks me up when someone does a thumbs down on a video like this. THAT is the way it has to be done, Period! How can you give it a thumbs down?
Just wanted to post a quick thanks for this and all your other vids! Very informative! I just got done redoing the entire timing/valve train assembly component replacement on my 06 f150. Now it runs like it was brand new. I am a pretty mechanical hands on guy and i prefer DIY when it comes to all my vehicle projects, however with out your vids on the timing i would have been lost. You helped me save thousands in cost by taking the time to make these vids for all us with a class 1-A shade tree mechanic license. Being that I am a single income family man supporting 3, DIY is pretty much my only option. Thanks Man!!!! Keep'em coming!!
Sweet that is the kind of success stories I like to hear! Thanks for sharing.
I like the ideal of the loosen cam caps vs the removal of the roller follows
It it jumps just one tooth does the valves get bent? Then you have to take heads off and redo valves
No have seen these a few teeth off and no problems.
What if I use both else did I been the valves?
L,s
Excellent video, very thorough and helpful with installing new cam phasers.
Thank you so much this was so helpful. God bless you. I'm actually doing mine on my 2008 ford f150 5.4 liter . Im using all original ford parts. I don't use after market parts on anything that I work on..
Ok so just to make sure i heard you correctly. If the cams are not timed together all you would have to do is remove all of your roller followers, set the crank sprocket in the correct position, align the timing chains on the guides install the tensioner guides and tensionors, and your timing should be correct?
How you doing man i have a question I'm replacing the timing chain on my 2005 f150 5.4 3v and i was watching your video u were showing that on the driver s side it has the L shape and the other side has the R but on my truck i have the L on both sides what should i do .
Manuel Perez Use the tooth 180 degrees from the L for the right hand side.
Manuel Perez I have a 06 with 85 k miles Engine runs nice but I hear what sounds like a chain rattle possibly when I’m tapping the gas and parking and moving very slow Any experience ?
Quick question why where you right side cam caps loose
THIS MOTOR IS A NITE MAYOR ford needs to go back to the 302 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
They did !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
@@thomasmarquez6790 True but the original 302 Coyotes were built better. Mine still runs at 316k currently.
Dude you just saved my life with your video. THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
I'm gonna need your help soon lol
So after removing 3 rollers each head and turning the key to 6 o clock , then i put up chains and tentioners but my question is how any times to i turn the key to be at correct timing from that 6 o clock position? Or do i just go from 6 o clock to 10 o clock and thats it? Pleasr help me! I hv to get it done today!
Go directly from 6 o’clock to 11 o’clock. Less than half a turn. Then match the timing chain marks. I used the crank tool to get the crank perfectly at 11 o’clock position.
Regarding getting it at top dead center, don't you have to make sure that you're on the compression stroke first? Like, if you follow these directions without making sure that you're at TDC, wouldn't you be 180 degrees off??
There is no compression stroke on the crankshaft side. You are setting the compression stroke when you time it not when you set the crank.
@@FordTechMakuloco Omg guys!!! He replied to me!!! I'm framing this.
F.r. though, thanks. Lost timing when changing a phaser. So I just remove the roller followers then follow this procedure and I'm good??
Help please! What if you didn't take the followers out fist or turn it to the 6? I took everything off and keyway is at 12, what do I do
FordTechMakuloco, I have a 2009 5.4 3V F150, with 159,000 miles. At high acceleration it loses power slightly, then runs normal again (as if nothing is wrong). After speaking with a diagnostics tech, he suggested the VCT solenoids may have begin to stick based on the mileage. After watching several of your videos (on VCT and other components) I decided to replace the VCT solenoids, Camshaft Phaser Sensor, Timing Chains along with a HV Oil Pump. I purchase all Ford Motorcraft OEM parts (except oil pump/Melling), with the intention of having my local Ford Dealer doing the labor. YES I know the labor $$$$ is a killer, however, I was informed by the service manager/dealer that I would ruin my engine by putting in the new parts (specifically the oil pump would be to powerful and ruin parts that were not swapped). My question, have you experienced or heard of anyone ruining the engine by CORRECTLY replacing the Timing chain and Cam Phasers as outlined in your videos?
Thanks for any information you or anyone else may provide.
The timing kit mentioned on your post from Amazon is good. So I can purchase it on a 2005 5.4 triton 4/4 truck .let me thank you for awesome videos on fords repair
Have a question I did mine on a 04 model and done everything chain phasers and all and now mine is going straight into limo mode after I start it and touch the gas pedal any ideas on what I've got going on
Very clean and professional video. Thank you! Ready to tackle mine.
So you just move your cam/ phaser to line the letter up with colored links on both sides?
Me and my wife got a 05 and fix it all I needed to see is timing marks an now it runs good thanks
i have the engine at TDC and covers off but my Camshaft lobes are not in the correct location. Cylinder 1 the lobes are to point at the 11 o'clock position and cylinder 5 lobes should point at 3 o'clock. Then remove parts. But i think my timing chain jumped. I need to know how to get the camshaft lobes back in correct location when the engine is at TDC?
Yes I use the otc tool to line it up camshafts was locked Done in correct position I have two other techs check and they also approved it. But I'm check compression tight now to see if I bent any vales.
Hi Ford Tech,
I am just about to perform a full timing job on my 05 F250 5.4 3v. Just to make sure I am not doing anything wrong I figured I would ask an expert a few questions. Here is what I plan on doing in the exact order, crankshaft pulley sprocket at the 12 o’clock timing mark at 1 o’clock. (Correct cam lobe for position 1)? Pulling the cams and taking all the lifters out. Putting cams back in. Do I now put the key way to 6 o’clock? Removing spark plugs, removing both chains, tensioners, guides, sprockets and removing both cam phasers.
Re-installing the cam phasers first, which I was nott sure if this would make a difference or not. Following the video and putting the key way at the 11 o’clock six on the sprocket then installing my guides chains tensioners etc..
Once everything is installed putting my lifters back in one at a time rotating the engine as needed to install or will the tool allow me to install all the roller followers?
Thanks for the help,
Jake Smith You want to put keyway at 12 and check the cam lobes on cylinder number 1 to make sure they appear as shown in my phaser knocking noise fix video. If not you need to rotate the crank another 360. Once those 3 roller followers are out each side then you can rotate the crank clockwise to the 6 oclock position. Replace your timing components tensioners guides etc and remove all followers now position the crank clockwise till the sprocket timing dot is at the 6 oclock position and time the engine as shown in this video.
Great video one question how do you hold the camshaft to keep it from spinning?
just a little info. don't get phaser from anywhere but Ford.. tried to save move but not worth time..I have replace chain guides and phaser. had did phaser 3 times til bought from ford..pin on back of phaser sheered off.throw-in timing out. the last one came completely apart..great video..
you are fn awesome thank you soooo much. Thank you for your service,1 of these days ill get you back.... plz keep making these for the 04-10 5.4 triton. i love my truck 05 exped xlt 4x4 just can t afford to pay to fix it and its so specific to this engine in these years. ive had many mechanics try to give me advise and they just dont understand its the triton engine. all i need now is a video on catalitic convertors. getting bank 1 and 2 below threshold codes. I have used you and others to help me change plugs and cops, vct on both sides fuel filter, brakes rotors, rear blend door, ac junction box had corrosion in it. Thank you, you are an angel. my wife myself and my 7 kids thank you.
You make great videos. Very easy to learn from you.
the timing designed that easier and smarter than German made. Thanks Your Video!
Think you should cover the difference between left an right side cams they are difrent, luckily I had cams right unfortunately it seems I was not T.D.C. on compression stroke instead on exhaust an marked fazers left an right opposite of what they should of been after lining marks up on chains an rotated engine couple times watching cam lobes an firing order I knew some thing wasn't right. Had hard ass time çause no one seemed to know the difference thanks to ford form couple old boys figured it out one longer than the other. may of had that right but dam sure had fazers wrong, wonder what happened when I truned the key????
well, it finally happened. i got my 05 used a few years ago, but it was actually in good shape. about a week ago i noticed it acting up. by no means am i an expert or honestly even that good of a mechanic but i do like to work on vehicles. but i took it to my local ford place, because i "cant" work on anything in my own yard anymore because of the landlord keeps calling it junk and threatening to have it towed to a junkyard.(kind of a long angry story), and got them to run the diagnostic on it thinking fuel pump or spark issue. i dont have the software or id have at least done that myself. he came back and said the noise we were hearing was the timing chains and or phasers, along those lines. so he quoted me like 3 grand to do a timing job, but of course he also quoted me $6500 to replace motor. i hate knowing what to do and how to do it but not being able to do it and it costing that much. now im back in the ironic phase of i need to work to get the money to fix the truck, but i need the truck to get to work to earn the money. since i wasnt able to fix my foxbody mustang " because its junk and this isnt a junkyard" i dont have another ride and i work nearly an hour and a half away. yay me, and right b4 Christmas too. awesome
My buddy took his chain off before setting it in the 6 o clock position do I just turn the crank to the six o clock position and then follow the rest of the information in the video
Ok thanks for the info I really appreciate it. Neutral is crank key way at 12 o'clock right. Then once loosened rotate clock wise till crank timing mark is set 6 like the video. Going to be very helpful.
Yes that should do it.
04 5.4 3v i did the timing chains all marks are lined up crank at 11 with the tool.. i started it up ran normally cold start ran for 10 mins and started rough ideling like it was camed took it for a ride and stared what i want to say eas spark knocking and i have p0345 p0012 p0174 p2195 startes but now runs low idel rough now so i tore it back down to see if i messed anything up i cant find anything wrong with time ...
I have a 2010 F-150 with the 5.4. I have noticed a chattering noise when I give it throttle an than take my foot off the gas, as the RPMs drop, I'm assuming it's the timing chain tensioner not keeping tension, allowing the chain to be loose. Is that common on the 5.4?
Yes also the phasers can oscillate causing the noise only use Ford components though they are linked in the video description.
I'm a little confused, the crank makes a 720 degree rotation for a complete Intake/Exhaust cycle. With the crank sprocket woodruff key at the 11 oclock position, how do I know it's not 360 degrees out of alignment?
The cams run at half speed not the crank. The crank cannot be out of alignment.
Ok, and the timing is set at the Crank Shaft. Do I follow the markings on the chain?. Add replacing a cylinder head.
Maybe I'm over thinking it but the marking in the timing on the cylinder has looks to be correct or maybe I'm over thinking it I don't. Know about 4 I put it back together.
And wreck the motor. Do I follow the marking on the chains? The difference is one side. I didn't touch that I know it's time. The other side looks to be right on point but looks can be Deceiving. How do I confirm that the Valve.. are in the right position?
Why does the '04 5.4 3v procedure different from the '07 where you turn crank to 6 o'clock. Is it bad practice to perform 04 procedure on 07?
I'm thinking about doing this soon to give me a reason to upgrade the oil pump.
I’m trying my first timing chain .. the truck is off timing on passenger side by one link . Also to driver’s side is where it should be but the chain is loose . Please advise thanks
THanks a million for this, I bought the kit you recommended, and am about to attempt this soon. Only question I have now is regarding the sump gasket, did this engine leak from the corner where the sump, block and timing cover meet? If not, how did you get around it, plaster a heap fo gasket maker in there or get a new sump gasket? THanks in advance!
A dab of gasket sealant in that corner, both sides where the block meets the heads, and the corner where the head, timing cover and valve cover meet.
I'm in the process now and am going to put a thin bead of sealant all along the exposed oil pan gasket with a little extra in the corners.
I have a 4.6L 3v mustang, I'm rebuilding the motor, first actual rebuild I'm doing. I've worked with the 3v before and messed up the timing. Is this all you have to do?? Many people have told me to make sure I have the pistons in the right location+key on the crankshaft. Something that has to do with the normal stroke and power stroke. I ended up with low compression last time. Could you help explain why a bad timing job would give me low compression, and if the pistons have to be in a certain orientation for allighnment with a normal stroke and power stroke?
changed pretty much everything in it chains guides doorman phasers. plugs coils all motorcraft cam sensors vvt selonoids everything is original but keep getting back p340-p345. car can idle fine for hours as soon as you drive it 10 ft it cuts of and shakes,,, help any suggestions, also noticed by thrust bearing wear shot, replaced those also with new original no more play in crank but keep getting these codes, voltage seem fine from ECM to the cam sensors,.
What you think about the Melling cast iron tensioners being used instead of the plastic oem ones ?
I'm blowing plumes of white smoke since getting on it a little in my 06 Mustang last night. Been getting a cylinder 6 misfire code, even after replacing the coil. Now I barely have enough power to move the car forward (Topped out at 40 on the way home last night, when it happened.), and this started when the engine became extremely rough idling, and making clanking sounds inside the engine (that sounded like metal playing Plinko!) Sound like this is what I need to now?
Will Swartz Sounds like a sticking injector to me personally.
My truck is 04 f 150 it has the L on both phasers I set it on the L on drive side an 180 mark on passenger side is that right
Barry Nunn yes
I have a 2004 expedition 4.6. the timing chain guides broke into a lot of pieces. I replaced the guides and tensioners,with the help of this video. thanks. I did not change the chains though. I did drop the oil pan and clean the pick up tube filter and the pan from all the plastic pieces from the guides that broke. got it all put back together and it's still making a noise. did the chain jump a tooth and it's out of time now? is my engine ruined? bent valves possibly?
My timing keeps jumping time.... I guess I'll have to do this procedure step by step. I'm not sure where you are located in the u.s.a but I can't find a garage or mechanic near me that will do this timing for me.
I have a 5.4 triton 3 valve and broke the crank in my old 5.4 but my heads are still good they are 2 valve heads. can I use them on the new block with the 3 valve heads?
I am getting ready to pull the timing chains and guides off. I'm 16 and I dont know what to do put the key hole to the 12 o clock position, then what take the guides and tensioners off and pull the chains and everything off? Please help and try to explain.
My lincoln have leaking valve and is been burning 🔥 the cat converter the driver side. . I uncover the head. What should I look for. And what will be the next step. Help please. Thanks
Hi there, I have Q: the timing makes 11o'clock to drive side,1 o'clock to passenger side and 6 o'clock to crankshaft,my Q:when turn the crankshaft two round should back in same point and Mark's. Thanks for answering.
Have to change the plugs in a 2012 5.4 E350 van, unlike the trucks & SUVs the spark plugs aren’t those shitty 3 piece but the fuel rails are over top of the coils.
Just a quick question. I know the key way should be at 6 o clock. But on what part of the rotation? Should cylinder 1 be up like top dead center. I did not follow the directions when taking the engine apart and not sure where the engine should be when the key way is down.
+Kevin Gardner The crank can only be in one position at 6 so just set it there with the dot at 6 and time from there
Breaking doing the broken guide thing on 07 f150 5.4 3v. How do I set time on the broken guide side of I think it jumped time? Did a leak down test and held steady pressure in all areas. Dropped pan removed guide pieces. I just want to make sure time is correct
What is the best brand of parts to buy, I need to do the timing job on a 2008 f250 5.4 super duty, can't seem to find reliable parts
I'm getting my 01 back on the road. Been sitting 8 years. New plugs and coils. Replaced the fuel pump. But still just the slightest miss. Brand new radiator, I'd given the original away. No thermostat in it at the moment but it's overheating. Engine light flashes when it gets hot but goes away at idle. I'm pulling off the valve covers and intake manifold tomorrow. Not entirely sure why I typed all this.
hello good afternoon I have a problem with a 2004 ford f150 engine 5.4 3V when it turns on everything is fine but after about 15 minutes it starts to fail and does not work on bench # 1
Do you take the a/c off on a 2004 f150? I know it will be difficult to get the valve cover off.
Do I have to lock the cams in place when doing the timing ? Camshafts are both staying in.
How would you install the roller followers with the cam locked down?
The place you mentioned can be seen on the timing cover. It's the TDC mark.
Great video , Thanks for your time and sharing your knowledge. I have a question on my 05 expedition 5.4 ,3 v. My cam phasers both are L,s. Should the right bank be timed by the opposing 180 degree mark?
Craig Hill Your new ones are? I am quite sure that dash you see on the other side of the phaser is the timing mark for the right hand side.
This is very helpful. I'm putting some new heads on a 5.4 2V. The previous owner had it blow out a spark plug. Rather than repair it with a insert he decided to jb weld the plug in. It's getting new head gaskets, new head bolts, chains, tensioners, and guides. Is there anything else I should replace while i'm in there? Also when torquing the head bolts the last step is to go to 90 degrees. Can I paint a white line on the bolt head and turn it 90 degrees, or does it need to be more precise? It's a 2001 f150 with 120,000 miles.
1captjake A white line on the head bolts is just fine that is what I use never a problem. I would do exhaust manifold gaskets while heads are off. Make sure you use the revised gaskets, and stainless hardware from Ford so they are never a problem in the future. There is not much more that I can think of except to look over all the internals very good for wear while they are on the bench. Also inspect the coolant crossover where it bolts the intake for cracks and be sure to replace those gaskets as well. Now is the time for a new thermostat and gasket also. Besides that not much goes wrong on these.
Brian, how often do you not replace replace the phasers and oil pump? It looks as though these items were reused on this video possibly.
excellent video and not a lot of jibbering. straight to the point of the subject. excellent excellent.
not sure of my truck jumped time or not, i started my truck the other day and it wont hold idle, it will idle for a few jumping rpms and itll die, replaced cps sensors, no change but if you unplug the cps sensors, the truck will run fine. not sure what to so here.. 04 F150 5.4 3v
Hello how you doing I have a F350 06 model XL work truck dually Scott like 86000 miles got the 54 3 valve anyway it runs fine sometimes and then all the sudden it sounds like crap
That’s need to remove the roller followers and spark plugs on the two sides????for set the time???
I’m getting ready to do a timing job on my 2006 F150 5.4. 2 questions. I got a timing cover gasket set that came with a small black o-ring. 1. Is that for the coolant passage in the timing cover? 2. Do you remove the screens in the VVT housings to clean them? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.