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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Tharbamar DIY RCA Cables Affiliated Links, If you use these links to purchase any items from Amazon or eBay(No Extra Cost To You), I get a small percentage which help support my work xxx
eBay,
Belden 8402 Cable, ebay.to/2RPGoze
Switchcraft 3502, ebay.to/2NxGLjA
Mogami W2534, ebay.to/2IFeByi
Silver Bearing Lead Free Solder, ebay.to/2Nd89CZ
Amazon,
Switchcraft 3502A RCA, amzn.to/2J3fsrD
Canare F10 RCA, amzn.to/2XCLNz6
Silver Bearing Lead Free Solder, amzn.to/2YoOZuY
![จบจนได้ ! | Black Myth: Wukong #007 [ตอนจบ?]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DSqvWndF0sw/mqdefault.jpg)
WOW, Tharbamar!! So you’ll probably never see this but I just made these exact RCA cables plus the Mogami speaker wires in your other vid. I waited until both sets were done, played my gear with the old amazon interconnects and 2002 monster cable, immediately swapped to my new hand made cables leaving all volume and sound settings the same. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! Playing a Marantz 2265b and Hafler DH220 on Klipsch Hereseys using Tidal from my iPad through a Schiit Modi DAC. Not sure if it’s that combo or if it’s the vintage gear that really brings out the difference or what, but I’m totally blown away. MOST. HELPFUL. VIDEO. EVER!! I owe you one!! I’m making my dad and sister sets for Christmas now.
I got tired of having excess cables for my home theater system, and wanted to make my own. I used this video and am now kicking myself for not finding this channel… the cables I made sound better than $150 king cobra cables I bought. Excellent video my friend
The sunglasses holder to clamp the wire is genius!
That's what this is,I know I seen this gadget
Yea so dope. I want to see if I have one now!!
I verbatim said the same thing. So using it. Yay no more damaged wires trying to clamp it
Those bonsai scissors?
@@garrettgiuffre7298 I may have snipped the cable a tiny bit, I was going willy nilly. But yea small fiskars would work, and take your time. I enjoyed making the cables and it does not need to be rushed.
I just finishing making this cable. I used Mogami W2534 and Neutrik ProFi Locking RCA plugs. Wow Amazing. Crystal clear audio with completely silent background. Thank you so much!
Awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for this fabulous tutorial! I just made my first interlink cable set, exactly according to your instructions. You are a true inspirator.
Thank you!
This video is great. The calmness of your voice, and the detail of your method actually makes me think I can do this myself. We shall see... haha! Thank you!
Sir, You are doing everyone a great service. Thank-you for this and other tutorials. You have so much credibility given the sound demos you put up. If you can pass your test then it must be quality...
A freaking visor sun glasses holder... It's so brilliant. It literally makes me mad. I didn't think of it first.
Thank you very much for your advice and tell us about your experiences. A couple of weeks ago I made my own patch cables using Canare F-10 RCA connectors and MOGAMI Neglex w2549 shielded cable, which has two wires and a shield, the outer diameter is 6mm, perfect for the RCA CANARE F-10. According to the data sheet, the resistance, capacitance and inductance values are practically identical to the w2543 cable. I joined the two wires and soldered them to the center pin that I insulated with heat shrink tubing and then wrapped the mesh around the heat shrink and crimped with the RCA connector jaws. To finish, I have placed a second heat shrink that isolates all the contacts. The change has been noticeable, the sound is cleaner, sharper in the mid/high frequencies. I have added red and white heat shrink to your proposal to differentiate the L and R channels.
Beautiful presentation, it's refreshing to see someone not drowning everything in solder... :)
Thank you for the tutorial Sir! Now I have a new project. A couple of weeks ago I saw your diy speaker cable video, and last weekend I made my own. I enjoyed very much doing my own cables, and they not only helped my system sound way much better, they also look great! All the best.
Awesome!! Thanks
Thank you for this video. It got me on a journey. And what I ended up with is quite the opposite: shield soldered to ground on source end, but no shield on amp end.
I made the same rig and it works perfect as the extra hand. This method is so easy to apart to and am to sound great as long as you keep it clean with no stray ground whiskers
What is that holder thingy he used to hold the cable in place while soldering ?
Hi, it's been a long time, but in the comments it was said several times that the shielding should be connected only on one side, but no one explained properly why it should be done that way and what advantage it has.
This connection system is taken from the studio equipment when connected by XLR which is connected by three wires 1-GND; 2-positive signal; 3 negative signal - if any interference is induced on the route to the cable connected in this way, it will affect both the positive and negative wires, in the target device these two signals will merge again and thus the induced hums will be canceled - this connection works at very long distances. Our home devices mainly use RCA connectors (cinch) where we only have a combined signal on the center pin - to reduce the interference of such connections (it only works for short distances) the so-called directional connection of cables is used - we need a shielded cable with two inner wires - one of the wires connect the active pin, on the signal side (e.g. CD player) connect the second wire and shielding to the external contact (GND), connect only the second wire to the external contact at the connector on the signal output side! we terminate the shielding so that it cannot touch this external contact.
The shielding must therefore always be on the side of the signal source! never the other way around!
Cables are also sold that have directly printed arrows between the text indicating the type of cable (I always connect cables that do not have arrows so that the direction of the signal corresponds to the direction of the text).
How does it actually work - if a disturbing signal is induced on the cable connected in this way, it is on the shield in antiphase with the GND wire and it is partially canceled - tested in practice and it works - I have not only all the cables of my HI-FI connected this way, but also the test cables used in audio equipment repairs where there is a lot of interference at the workplace.
I always recommend GND soldering
Nice day 🙂 Tom
Thanks Tom. Are you saying for home RCA short run usage connect the shield to ground at one end, that end being used for the source, ie CD, other end for Amp? Ta.
@@boydsargeant7496 Yes, the other end where the shielding of the cable is not connected is intended for a device that processes the signal, it can be the amplifier you mentioned, or a mixing console or, as in my case, a direct input to a tape deck. Shielding is always connected at the signal source.
Thanks!
You inspired me to make my own RCA interconnects using Canare L-4E6S Star Quad cable and Paillics locking RCA plugs. They sound much better than the Audioquest Diamondbacks I was using.
Do they actually? Are you still using them?
@@thebishopelect I'm using them in and out of a Schiit Mani 2 phono preamp. The Diamondbacks were a little too sibilant and the soundstage was narrower.
I've been using the Switchcraft/Belden cables for a few years now. It basically ended my cable swapping habit. I also use the same Switchcraft connectors with twisted pair Duelund wire. Equally good with a more minimalist look. These recipes first appeared on another audiophile blog a while back. I know of at least one prospering cable manufacturer who slips the Belden/SC combo in a braided sleeve, rebrands it and sells it with a very hefty markup. Just goes to show you...
Mike, I grown up in Japan and I'm using these methods even before anyone one knows publicly. I like both cables in my system but I might preferred Mogami C-Type for richer and quieter sound signature.
@@Tharbamar Makes sense, the fellow that posted the recipe on the blog I was referring to is also Japanese. I'm using a pair of Mogami ICs (not DIY) for the audio out on my BluRay player. Can't remember the model number. Will check later, it's too hot for me to go crawling in back of my gear right now.
I've been reading about the Belden switchcraft combo. Even Jim Smith reccomends them. What are your toughts on these?
I made a pair of these for my dac in 3 foot length and man did they make an improvement from my generic 17 foot rca cable. The sound is more open and the highs are better on my system noticeable right off the bat. Thanks for the tutorial.
first of all love the content i thought it was amazing, then when i saw everything was readily available with free shipping and similiar price to the us while being from the uk was mindblowing. you dont get this stuff with the likes of keyboard cables
4 year old video and still a great video. Good job man thanks for the video
Thanks for watching!
Nice using the car visor sunglasses clip for cable hand I picked up a helping hand at a yard sale it has 4 aligator clips on adjustable arms and a stainless cup for water or solder sponge they can be expensive though
Tip... Put the connecter shell, spring and heat shrink on the cable, before doing all the stripping.. will save you hassle of getting them on after
i dont mean to be off topic but does anyone know a trick to log back into an instagram account?
I was dumb forgot the account password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Hendrix Harvey instablaster :)
@Otis Luciano i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Otis Luciano it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my ass :D
@Hendrix Harvey You are welcome :D
I love it, you are awesome and your video has helped me! I would like to share with you a tip I have learned along the way. If you have nitrile gloves on when you make your cables, you wont get any skin oil on your cable insides. Thanks again brother and cheers!
Thank you for your knowledge! I ordered a roll of Mogami W2534 and 40 Neutrik plugs for way cheaper than I could get a handful of decent interconnects, and I know they will be the right length for my audio project. Awesome!
You should try leaving one side of the shield floating. I prefer it better that way
Which side do you float?
@@ChicagoRob2 One side 😊 and you turn it as needed. Usually I find it best to be tied on the source side and floating on the receiving end.
Floating it makes it a one direction cable from what I know
This is such a great video. I've made one set of the Belden so far and tested them on two systems, both with Naim amps. The Supernait 2 and XS 3. PMC speakers and Neat speakers. Both systems have the Blusound Node. It's such a vast improvement over some top name interconnects, including Chord and Rega. The dynamic range is superior and the sound is richer. If you're looking for more of a "3d sound" then I'd recommend giving this a try. I will probably give the speaker cable video a try at some point but it's harder to find that cable in the UK for some reason. Thanks for your expert instructions on how to make these.
My pleasure. Thanks for sharing.
As a professional sound engineer with 35 years of experience using millions of dollars in equipment... I have never heard all of the glorious improvements in sound stage, imaging, fluid detail -- whatever that means.
I should be worried but, all of my counterparts have never heard it either. Believe me... we hear a lot of things.
Te cables I made from this wire and 8412 were every rolled off and bottom heavy. I used them to poser my subwoofers. I used Canare F10 RCAs and Wonder Solder. I tried the 3103 speaker cables from Mogami and they were fine.
Use Mogami 2549, one wire hot, one wire return, with the shield connected only at the source. Then take all your other cables and throw them in the garbage.
@@ChicagoRob2 (edited because I misunderstood)I'm pretty new to this level of audio equipment but I can easily build cables. I have a CAT S1 black path and Music Reference RM-9. Would the 2549 be acceptable for a 12ft length? I just want to be sure to do it right the first time. Also, What RCA terminal do you recommend?
@@crherniman No problem running 12’. Use Neutric Rean RCA connectors: NYS352G for positive, and NYS352BG for negative. Get them at Performance Audio. Cheap, but very high quality.
Thank you for the best instructional video on making cables
Glad it was helpful!
Your soldering station is brilliant!
Thanks
What clamp are you using for your soldering station please?
@@ericscott769 I think it's an eyeglass holder/clip.
The one issue of not soldering the ground and just folding it over the cable and then crimping over is that you're putting wires between the rubber cable jacket and the metal crimp part of the connector, so when you crimp the connector, it's not gripping on tightly onto the rubber cable jacket, but is instead holding onto the "slippery" metal. I mean you can imagine the difference in grip levels between two metal pieces in contact and a metal in contact with rubber. This way only your signal wire is actually really solidly connected on both ends. It's all fine if nobody ever pulls on the cable violently. I always solder the ground as well, and then use a shrink tube with glue, so that it actually shrinks and glues everything together. That way you have no issue of breaking the cable at the connector, since you have the signal wire soldered, ground wires soldered, shrink tube glued on and the crimp holding everything together.
My question would be if there was any audible significance by not soldering the ground vs crimping the ground. I know Audioquest tries to steer clear of using solder and prefers machine crimped cold welds.
I love you videos you are an amazing guy honesty is King God bless
This is a very enjoyable and informative video. I can"t wait to make some of those cables for my system.
Industrial instrumentation cable only has one end of shield connected to common of the receiving end for best shielding. This explains arrows on high end connectors that this guy showed in another vid but didn't know why.
I always recommend connecting the shield on only one side. The side has to be marked. Connected side goes to preamp.
How come?
What if you don't have preamp but just DAC and AMP? Not shielded goes to DAC? What are benefits of having one side not shielded? Today I spoke to my repair guy, he is making custom soldered cables and he said it doesn't make sens.
@@KonradSkowronski Tell the repairman to think or go back to school, I added a separate comment explaining how the directional cable works.
Nice day 🙂 Tom
@@KonradSkowronski “Directional” cables with the shield connected at the source and “floating “ at the other end are more transparent and open sounding than a cable constructed with the Japanese method. I’ve been building my own cables for 45 years and the directional method is a better sounding solution that can easily be heard. I’ve conducted hundreds of real-world comparisons and every listener, regardless of background, has chosen the directional cable as superior in every way.
Sorry it's psychoacoustics only. @@Edisson. Can you give me real proves like scientistic data of frequency response etc?
Thank you for tutorials.Your video will help a lot of us music enthusiasts.
Fine video sir Berkeley also a fine school.thank you peace
Suggestion: Test the continuity before sealing with shrink wrap...just in case. It has saved me more than once.
I did one like this from van damme cable, same 4 wires inside with shielding. I have done a van damme silver series, and a simple mogami copper coax with shielding. they all sound the same. maybe the van damme silver series a tiny bit different 'better' in sound but they pretty much the same.
thanks for sharing BTW, if you are doin' it alone you can also use ruberband in nose and mechanical pliers so you can easily and cheaply convert them into crab pincers, i do it all the time
also, using silver solder would be propper for high end
Just ordered
1) 0.7m of mogami 2534 pre built with Neutrik plugs.
2) 3m of Mogami 3104 speaker cable.
3) 5m of Canare 4S8G speaker cable.
4) Almit KR-19RMA soldering iron.
for my Mid-Fi and Lo-Fi at a total of 9,000Yens only shipping to my city. Have high hope of them😄.
PS: I don't buy banana plugs because I can reuse my QED Screwloc and Audioquest Suregrip 100 by cutting out some of the wires at the ends.
Very nice, enjoy!
Tried mogami for headphones but they dont offer the clarity of silver cable, and silver cable is so direct and crisp in its sound you need to use gold on the negative. Combine those two and youve got an amazing quality sound. I picked up a used set of single crystal silver cables ($30), i have a set of gold plated ofc ($30), and ive ordered 2m of gold filled copper cable (actual gold layer fused to a copper core ($20 for 2m). Im going to run a length of silver and the gold plated ofc as the positive and the gold filled alongside the remaining silver as the negative. Using cotton shoelaces (2mm) and a layer of shrink wrap to protect the cables. And terminated in mini aviation sockets. About $110 overall. You wont find a pro set of equal quality under the 10k mark. More money than sense.
Btw found soviet airforce comunications wire for aircraft (pure single crystal silver) for dirt cheap on bthe bay, great sound out of that but its very stiff cable, no good for my headphones but for interconnects it could be perfect...and its very cheap
Very helpful. Thank you
You're welcome!
Thank you!
Would appreciate a video on DIY audiophile XLR cables.
I got so excited I ordered all the wires and parts and I have no clue what is going on anymore. My wires cost more than my speakers. But I ordered the interconnects first and now I have no clue what is going on.
Tharbamar have you tried only soldering one side of the braided shield to one end and leave the other braided end disconnected? This is another method and you attach the connected side to the source of your equipment such as the DAC. Apparently it offers better noise rejection, something called a "Faraday cage" when you do it this way.
This is the way many cable makers do.
Yes,I have done that many times and I like the my C-Type & J-Type more than any method I tried.
Excellent visual and your commentary is spot on.=!!!!!!!!!!!!
With some extra time will save you some extra bucks. Thank you for sharing. Good job.
his voice is smooth as oil
Excellent! You made it soo simple. Will be giving it a try. Thanks for sharing!
As a retired EE, and having worked with a lot of people in digital and analog signalling, I cannot wrap my head around the idea of connecting the shield to both ends of a cable unless it is coaxial (Mr. Yazaki's method). Twisted pair is much preferred over coax for high-impedance low level connections between audio gear. I was taught the standard method and never deviated. To demonstrate why the standard method is preferred, put a Japanese connected RCA cable next to a strong EM field. You will hear hum from the ground loop between the shield and the black wire. It's physics.
Belden 8402 interconnects go back to The Absolute Sound in the 1970s as far as a thing with audiophiles. Belden 83318 is far superior, but is very expensive. I built interconnects based on the 83318 cable in the 1980s for a high end shop as a hustle going to school.
Agrred!
Agree 100%. Aside from the hum/ground loop problems inherent in the Japanese method, “directional” cables offer far better sonics, i.e. lower noise floor, better transparency, soundstage, and imaging.
i bought my own RCA connectors ( good quality ones) from Amazon. But the difference being is…. I’m using solid copper electrical wire; as opposed to the stranded, flexible type. The difference in sound quality is very noticeable; depending on whether you have a good musical ear or not. I’m also using bi-amp / wire speakers.
Sunday am 23rd October 2022. U.K. Southampton
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
You’re the best! Subscribed and thumbs upped!
Intrigued! I will build a pair for my phono stage and try them out.
To be honest when i was about 19 i tried making my own phono cables and hated the experience then in 2012 i decided to have a dedicated home cinema room but i let QED do all the hard work and spent over £1200 on there reference and signature range of speaker cables have life time warranty and still happy to this day and 9 years later still going strong so for each year i have had it now just works out to £120 per year BARGAIN LOL
@Sean MacDonald Forgot to reply!
Went brilliantly, very happy with the results and way more transparesnt and dynamic than a couple of other sub 30€ interconnects i had at hand to compare to.
Dear Tharbamar, I see these Mogami 2534 cables pre built with Neutrik/Rean nys373 plugs selling for ¥1920 only on Amazon jp. I think I will get them. No need to think twice for such a price.
Great video Tharbamar!
They will sound great, If they use same connection method as my C-Type it would even be quieter background.
Avoid the rean plug LOL. I had used them for months before making this conclusion. Use canare f-09 plugs instead. The cable will sound the best.
Love your work. Thank you!
I made some sets of belden 8412 rca interconnects ...because the specs and costs were perfect and enabled me make some very neat specific custom runs, rather than have the horrible spaghetti junctions behind the rack, so I highly recommend that those interested have a go. What's to lose?
Now initially they sounded OK, better than what I had but a little constrained, but here's the thing... they kept getting better and more open and dynamic and funnily showed the strengths and unfortunately weaknessess in my system.
Now I was always an ofc copper cable junkie but these cables do take a bit more time to open ?? Now I'm not sure whether that was down to my hearing getting used to them or that burn in makes a difference... So please don't respond because it is all subjective , but to me they are simply great cables to make interconnects... especially if on a budget and dont have the funds or need to buy the hyper brand cables.
That's not to say they are not good or valid, but DIY will always be a cheaper way to go. However just like hi-fi there are many different cables out there..so it's easy to fall into the same upgrade traps. but belden cables are great
Very good video , I used the belden cable with some solderless locking connectors though I connected the shield to one end only , very good interconnect , though I would like to know why connecting shield to both ends is a good thing or not , thanks again. Ian
I was educated today. 🙏🏼 thank u
I just had an idea of using RJ45 wires for my RCA's 😅 I hope it'll sound good lol
It would be great to see a solder-free version
And it's mostly to get information on a source for a good quality solder-free RCA connector. All of the ones I've seen look pretty questionable/bad in the quality department.
Awesome video. I will try some before long. I do have one question, which I believe I already know the answer, but will ask anyway: Subwoofer RCA cables are done the same way correct?
The Mogami 2534 currently costs €3.41 per metre, the Belden 8402 €17.50, so the decision in favour of the Mogami is quickly made.
Your videos are very informative and helpful, much appreciated. What is that little clamping piece you are using? That seems very convenient.
What's about fabel or Our Dutch one: van de hul (okay the commerce took over with the price!But he was one of the first 🥇 who looking into cable's!Yes????The DUTCHMAN (but heh man I 💕 ove you honesty!!!!so God's peace to you !
I doubt that it changes the sound but surely will reduce the hum. Thanks for sharing the secret (or schematic) of theses cables. Another way to do it is to connect a big braid between the chasis of all equipment.
I wish I could get you to wire up a complete wiring harness for my sound system in my truck 4-channel amplifier component speakers with a monoblock powering two 10in subwoofers
Hmm but wouldnt putting both wires together increase capacitance? Even the official mogami rep that i asked said its better to put one wire to ground. What do you think? Did you ever notice any difference or even tried and compared both methods?
Nice work - and nice English! I'll be very interested to make signal cables using the methods and materials you showed. Also very clear diagrams! Well done! Nice video! All the best, Rob in Switzerland
The soldering never really come close to serious factory termination that some of them were done exceptionally well.
Best solder is no soldering.
If you’re connecting the shield to ground at both ends, you’re defeating the drain potential of the shield.
Best to leave one end unattached
That’s the purpose.
Great videos, and you have given me a lot of inspiration for cable making in the near future... I do have a question... As far as subwoofer RCA cables... Would you also use 1 of these type of cables, or would you use a different wire(also shielded, not shielded, shielding ground on both ends, or not, etc), etc? Also, I have 1 sub that works mono RCA(amp) to mono RCA(sub)... Easy enough... But I have another sub I sometimes swap in, that would be mono RCA(amp) to left and right RCA inputs(sub)... You can use the sub with using only 1 of the inputs(left or right), but it sounds better, and is recommended to use both, either with stereo cables and outputs, or a Y cable and a mono output... It would be great to see the connections you would make when making a Y cable of this type... When I use this speaker, now, I have to use a mono cable and a few small connectors... It would be great to have an actual Y cable(and of good quality, of course!)... Sorry for the long comment, but I appreciate any advise! Have a great day!
Please tell me why or what is the benefit of using the 2 pair inner (whites) as a connect to the shield and ground? Is this a better shielding result versus just using the shield as ground ONLY? And if so why? My first thoughts are that its worse because you are bringing signals closer to the actual feed wires (blue) vs just an outer shield grounded that is farther away from the feeds. (blue). OR is what you are doing here in this video (Japanese Method) actually creating and Outer and Inner shielding effect that is overall a better shielding scheme? Thank you for this awesome video too....and in advance if you are able to answer my question for better understanding of the benefits of what you are suggesting in this video.
I added a separate comment where I explained how the directional cable works.
why do you ground the braided shielding at both ends? is 1 end not recommended?
I learned 45 years ago from my friend with an EE degree to only connect the shield at source.
I thought only 1 end of the shielding is supposed to be connected to the ground
indeed that how we build them in the studio's, i connect the shield to the output stage, since output is low impedance.
If you don't have sound grounding, as your reference point, you will end up chasing your tail. In other words, if you have a good ground in your electrical system, there's really no reason not to connect both ends/terminations of the copper conductors to their respective connection points...and that includes both the signal conductor and the low/shield. I've worked in an electrical lab for more than 30 years and all of the coaxial cable we use has the shielding connected at BOTH ends. We do, however, also have a great copper ground bus that encircles the entire lab, so, once again, all of your electrical must be referenced to a good ground.
Any comment on the sound signature of these two builts? Can you use these for digital transmission via COAX port?
Can you use each individual conductor on the mogami to make a single rca pair or is that not recommended? Looking at making my own cables for multiple amps in the car but with as little separate cables as possible
Yes you can because it’s insulated.
Hello Tharbamar, you said in one comments that you preferred the Belden 8402 over the Mogami StarQuad... so:
1. How did it compare to the BJ LC1 that use their Belden custom made wire with utralow capacitance?
2. Since the new Belden generation (8412) seems to have a quad (8412P) with lower capacitance, did you find that the Mogami StarQuad was quieter at the end?
Thanks! Very good demo!
Hi, I also have LC1 which is good neutral sounding cable but 8402 is much better cable for sound quality for me.
I have not tried 8412 to give you right answer, thanks
Thanks for the question Antoine. I was about to ask the same:) I also have BJ LC-1 and custom (made by myself) Belden 8412 and Mogami 2549. To be honest I can't hear significant differences between them having pretty good ears ( I am musician, mix music). Maybe LC-1 has a bit more extended high frequencies but it can be just a self-suggestion. They are all good interconnects but I'm choosing Mogami - it costed me 15 bucks vs $60 for BJ LC-1 which is 4 times more expensive and not sounding 4 times better.
Nice
Hi, which interconnects are your best? Did you compare them? Kind regards and have a nice 2021!
Make your own directional interconnects with Mogami 2549 and Rean Neutric connectors and toss your other interconnects in the trash.
Great video! Which cable & connectors would you recommend for a diy interconnect phono cable? I'm getting lots of EMI from mine, so I guess it's time to change it for a low capacitance one.
My favorite if Neutrik ProFi RCA plugs. thanks
Brilliant video, can i use this kind of rca cable for my Turntable and make groundwire with it,i have RCA connectors on my turntable
Yes definitely.
@@Tharbamar ok thank you for the answer, i will make the brown cables looking forward to try it out in my system
Can you please do a video on how to make twisted rcas for car audio ?
Thanks for the great video. Which cable is best to use with a subwoofer?
You should try soldering gold or silver for better sound and get silver or gold rca connector to get that fuller and richer Soundstage.
🤣🤣
or you can pre cut the excess wire before crimping it. i guess it'll be much easier.
Hello there.
I really enjoy your videos
Can you do some XLR balanced ones?
Thnx in advance.
Keep up the good work
Kind Regards
I enjoy your videos, thank you. I have a question about grounding. Is it only one end or both ends being grounded?
Both end is grounded, thanks
Shouldn't you ground only one end of the white wires? As far as I know, such a cable becomes directional. It is grounded from the source to the amplifier.
I watched the movie again. I noticed that part where you bend the white wires from the other end breaks off. You can't see that you've stripped off the white insulation. So the cable is directional from ground bond to empty bond.
Both cables are constructed with the “Japanese” method. The only difference is the cable being used. It would have been better to build one of them as “directional” cables. A directional cable uses one wire for hot, one wire for the return, with the shield connected only at the source. The shield “floats” at the other end and is not connected. There is a big difference in the way the two different cables sound. Japanese constructed cables sound dull and closed-in, compared to directional cables, which are more open and transparent.
I am about to assemble a cable, but quite confused by what you mean.
Would you be able to elaborate or guide me to a place where i can read more about this?
@@SlagroomenCornflakes Here you go, nice and easy. Buy the 2549 and connectors from Performance Audio(best prices).
1. Connect blue wire to center pin of both connectors.
2. Connect white return wire to ground of both connectors.
3. Connect the shield to only one connector and let it “float” on the other end. The shield connected connector should be plugged into your music source(DAC, preamp, etc.).
good work
Tharbamar, these cables with the Mogami 2534 gave me superb results. I think I'm going to try making XLR cables with the 2534. Your thoughts?
Help please. Does connecting ground to both ends--either the Yazaki-san method, or coax with shield connected to both ends--risk ground loop issues? Wouldn't this be worse than a 2-conductor cable wired with the shield and ground at the source end only? Thanks for any input.
I’ve used it all the time without any issue in my system.
Which cable did you end up liking more? Great tutorial. I am going to build a pair!
I liked Belsen 8402 more in my system, thanks
@Jingle Nuts Yes it is.
Does tying ground to shield at both ends of the cable introduce the possibility of a ground loop? How do these cables compare to methods using a telescopic shield?
As far as I read on many forums, that is a concern mainly with balanced cables. But in case of unbalanced cable, it's good.
Not a good idea to connect shield to ground at both ends as it creates a local earth loop. Better to connect shield to low impedance end, usually source end is lower, any rf noise gets drained to ground through the lower source impedance.
Nah, done that way so many times, directional type is overrated. I have and built all methods nothing comes close to these methods in sound quality.
@@Tharbamar I'll bow to your greater experience of auditioning. Theory is not always borne out in practice. I've always grounded the shield at source as good practice, but haven't compared the sound with both ends connected. Maybe I'll try it.
No problem whatsever If both units share a common ground. For example Naim amps don't pass ground signal to rca ports! If the source eqipment doesn't have a ground pin now you have a ground loop problem between chasis of the source equipment and amp. If you inject ground signal one of the unused ports of your amp then it's ok as well (ground is shared between rca ports) It's not easy to say this method is better than this I guess.
@@Tharbamar It its all dependent on the equipment which you connect... I'm always preferring one side shield connection, that can work always...
You need to watch tweaker man, what he does is truly DIY... He builds all his cables from scratch
I did build them long time ago, easy task.
Its me again, planning for purchasing dac : ares 12th or draco to go with SX11, do you still recomend belden 8402 or 8412 made XLR cables for these combinations ? BTW my speaker is Sonus Faber Sonetto I .
Yes I’m still using 8402, thanks
Hello Tharbanar. Useful video. Thanks for that. I'm just curios, can all 4 cores be solder as signal and just solder the braided wire as ground?
Yes you can but it will increase capacitance, thanks
Would love to get some of you audiophools in blind A/B tests using the most crap cable and the $10k cables. Hilarious. This is all romance not reality. Anything above $30 is a flog.
I’ve beaten many blind demos and make fool of people who think they know it all.
But good for you if you can’t hear the difference but don’t think others are dumb.
Great information had here...nice to have people of this world sharing their knowledge for the things they have a passion for. I'm a newbie when it comes to building cables and what is used for what in each application, maybe you could provide some insight as to how to build a phono cable? I do know inter-connects and phono's are different, but can the Belden 8214 be used to connect my Project Debut Carbon to my Receiver which has a Phono-line in? Thanks for any help you could provide!
Yes you can use it for phono application, some says Coax cables are the best for phono cables. Thanks
Thanks for the fast reply! So just confirming, using the method you referred to by soldering the whites to each rca pin and then the black and ground to the ground on each connector, this would give 2 cables that hook up the right and left signal on the turntable. Would the shielding be enough in the cables that a ground wouldn’t be needed?
I am about to make some cables with some Belden 8412. I live in Japan so it will be pretty easy for me to get some Mogami cable. Please tell me how you like the Belden Vs The mogami. Thank you for sharing your video. Very nice!!!