Kobra 2 Plus - First Impressions, Prints and Comparisons
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- 00:00 Intro
01:39 Spec Comparison
02:33 Unboxing And Assembly
05:18 First Initial Prints
07:18 Model Comparisons
11:14 Technical Printing
13:43 16 min Benchy
🔧 Unboxing, Assembling, and Printing with the Anycubic's Kobra 2 Plus FDM 3D Printer! 🚀
In this video, join me as I unbox and assemble the cutting-edge Anycubic Kobra 2 Plus 3D printer. Witness the evolution as I retire my trusty old Anycubic Chiron FDM printer and embrace the future of 3D printing.
🔄 Printer Transition: Chiron to Kobra 2 Plus
Say goodbye to the Chiron as I make the switch and explore the enhancements and features of the Kobra 2 Plus. We'll dive into basic spec comparisons and speed tests to showcase the advancements.
📊 Benchmarking with the Chiron
Using the Chiron as a benchmark, we'll compare print speeds and analyze the quality of prints. See how the Kobra 2 Plus outshines its predecessor, producing superior results in less time.
⚙️ Technical Print Showdown
Watch as I push the boundaries with the Kobra 2 Plus, demonstrating intricate prints with moving parts that were impossible with the Chiron. Marvel at the precision and complexity achievable with the new 3D printer.
🏎️ Speed Demon: Bench Test in 16 Minutes!
As a special bonus, experience the Kobra 2 Plus in action as it completes a Bench Test in just 16 minutes. Witness the efficiency and speed of this remarkable 3D printer.
✨ Stay tuned for an exciting journey into the future of 3D printing with the Anycubic Kobra 2 Plus! - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
About layer lines, i use printers for making master moulds for coasters and coaster holders. I then coat the moulds in 2-part epoxy resin, which dries in around 24 hours and gives a very smooth finish. My parts are simple, square or circular so for your detailed objects you'd have to paint the resin on, and i'm not sure what paint you'd use to colour them afterwards, although i think acrylic paint can be used on epoxy resin. I need a smooth finish on my 3d printed parts because i then use silicone rubber to make the final mould and it has to be shiny so that the final resin part is shiny.
It sounds like you have your process sorted out! I tend to use the fdm for functional prints like dice towers where the paint job is secondary. Or busts etc that I either don't want to paint or will just use a rattle can or airbrush. I have had great results airbrushing acrylic Ink straight on to white filament.
Then I have my resin printer for detailed prints or display pieces. I am pretty stoked to have both options, now that my FDM printer is fast.
Nice, no-nonsense review, cheers pal. Ordered mine this morning, will be here at the end of the month, looking forward to it after the nightmare i had with the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro ! Liked and subbed :)
Cheers man. I hope it goes smooth for you, unlike your Neptune 4 Pro by the sounds of things. Thanks for the sub!
I heard clicking in your benchy. is that the nozzle hitting the plastic? Mine is hitting the plastic, I haven't had a failed print because of it, but it makes me really dang nervous. Are you seeing/experiencing any issues with that?
Yup, I am pretty sure that's what it is, but it moves so fast I can't really see. I haven't had any supports fail yet, and I have printed some pretty tall dice towers with it. It could be a z-hop setting, but I haven't had any issues yet, so I haven't looked into it too deeply.
I want one now
I dont blame you! Although I see they are just about to release the Kobra 3 so if you have patience you might want to have a look at that once it’s released.
@@upskillinglife thanks for the info!
I just got mine and after the updates my Z axis isn't going all the way down to the bed. The only thing I've gotten to print properly is the shark. Any idea what could be causing this?
Not too sure off the top of my head. I'm assuming you've tried a re-level and resonance test. Maybe it's a setting in your slicer, did you find the correct profile?
I haven't had any trouble yet after any updates personally.
What are the v rollers? They don't seem to be rubber or plastic. Is that steal? Same for the bed? Thanks
Yea, steel rollers because of the speed and resonance, I think. The bed is a magnetic, peel off textured plate.
Do you have a profile for this printer under Orca Slicer? Thank you.
No sorry, I use Cura and Bambu slicers for FDM. Maybe check with a Facebook group to find specific profiles for other slicer software.
@@upskillinglife Thanks, I will definitely do that.
I'm using Orca now and the latest version has the profile built in for the Kobra 2 Plus.
How many hours have you put on it now? Any major maintenance?
Not too many hours on the machine yet. I've probably used 2 kg of filament so far and have had to do no maintenence yet.
Is my printer supposed to scratch the plate when starting a print?
It shouldn't be scratching the plate as such, especially if it is actually gauging out a scratch mark. Mine sort of sounds like it is scratching the plate, but it isnt actually scratching it.
If you are worried about it you might need to try re-leveling your build plate.
what print settings are you using? I noticed the default profile from anycubic had really slow print speeds
I've been using the default profile but am generally using 60mm/s on the first layer and as my general default slow speed (for bridging, etc... and anything I think should be slow) and then upping the speed to 300 mm/s for infill, etc....
I'm still playing around with my speeds, but I haven't been game to run it at max speed yet. I have tried the sports mode a few times, once the print has been running. That increases the speed again, but I've only done this once a good base layer has been achieved.
is the nozzle proprietary ?
Everything is stock standard from anycubic. Straight out of the box.