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Thankyou, that sounds like a great tip ... straight from the source! I will have to try it out on my next multi part print.

Awesome, thanks. I will keep an eye out for it.

Yea, it seems to be inherent of any multi part project. I find it's not such an issue for single piece prints (complete model) or 32mm scale pieces as the area that can warp is pretty minimal. I have heard some people achieve pretty good results glueing the pieces before curing, but personally, I don't like the idea of glueing uncured resin. It's one downside over FDM but it makes up for it with such fine details on the models themselves.

@@upskillinglife Organic shapes definitely help in hiding the issue. Maybe I'm just naive, but I still hold out hope that there is some magic combination of resin/supports/curing that will bring us closer to perfection.

Thanks for the great comment. I am currently editing a video introducing my new resin printer. I would recommend having a look at that once I finish it as I look at the Anycubic M5s Pro. In my opinion it is an awesome beginners resin printer due to its simplified setup. If you do pull the trigger on a resin printer I think you will love the level of detail when compared to your FDM. Especially on really small .... and really large prints.

The model painting handle I use is one that Loot Studios released as a download. You can also find painting handle files on thingeverse to download for free. Games workshop also has a very small painting handle that is only good for small 32mm figures. I highly recommend printing one off!

Awesome, cheers. I plan on doing a video soon, repurposing some of my failed print collection into something useful.

It sounds like you have your process sorted out! I tend to use the fdm for functional prints like dice towers where the paint job is secondary. Or busts etc that I either don't want to paint or will just use a rattle can or airbrush. I have had great results airbrushing acrylic Ink straight on to white filament. Then I have my resin printer for detailed prints or display pieces. I am pretty stoked to have both options, now that my FDM printer is fast.

Cheers man. I hope it goes smooth for you, unlike your Neptune 4 Pro by the sounds of things. Thanks for the sub!

This model was printed on a Anycubic Mono X but it so happened to be the print that killed my printer. But with my next video I will introduce my new Anycubic Mono M5s Pro. So stay tuned for a look at that!

@@upskillinglife ah that sucks! Hopefully the new one works a charm

Yea, steel rollers because of the speed and resonance, I think. The bed is a magnetic, peel off textured plate.

Not too sure off the top of my head. I'm assuming you've tried a re-level and resonance test. Maybe it's a setting in your slicer, did you find the correct profile? I haven't had any trouble yet after any updates personally.

Not too many hours on the machine yet. I've probably used 2 kg of filament so far and have had to do no maintenence yet.

No sorry, I use Cura and Bambu slicers for FDM. Maybe check with a Facebook group to find specific profiles for other slicer software.

@@upskillinglife Thanks, I will definitely do that.

I'm using Orca now and the latest version has the profile built in for the Kobra 2 Plus.

This was printed on an Anycubic Mono X, but I have just put through an order for a new M5 pro so stay tuned to see some videos from that once it arrives!

I dont blame you! Although I see they are just about to release the Kobra 3 so if you have patience you might want to have a look at that once it’s released.

@@upskillinglife thanks for the info!

Hey thanks for your nice comment. Yup there is a bit of work sorting out the files etc… before you end up with the printed model, and then the post processing work to do before you have something ready to be primed. Stay tuned for more on the Odin adventure.

Yup, I am pretty sure that's what it is, but it moves so fast I can't really see. I haven't had any supports fail yet, and I have printed some pretty tall dice towers with it. It could be a z-hop setting, but I haven't had any issues yet, so I haven't looked into it too deeply.

Everything is stock standard from anycubic. Straight out of the box.

Glad to hear it!

Awesome, thanks! I'm glad to have you subscribed!

It shouldn't be scratching the plate as such, especially if it is actually gauging out a scratch mark. Mine sort of sounds like it is scratching the plate, but it isnt actually scratching it. If you are worried about it you might need to try re-leveling your build plate.

I've been using the default profile but am generally using 60mm/s on the first layer and as my general default slow speed (for bridging, etc... and anything I think should be slow) and then upping the speed to 300 mm/s for infill, etc.... I'm still playing around with my speeds, but I haven't been game to run it at max speed yet. I have tried the sports mode a few times, once the print has been running. That increases the speed again, but I've only done this once a good base layer has been achieved.

Hey that's great, thanks! I will give this a try, on a chess set I am working on. I really wanted a speedy job, so a rattle can prime and speed paint finish will work great. Cheers. Great work actually reading the can instructions!!

All good, hope it provided you with some answers.

Cheers bro, yea I was well aware of the flame colour, (first flame I ever painted I googled to check flame colours to check) but I made a choice to go the other way around. After completing this video I saw a picture of the same model, painted yellow core to red tips and am happy with my choice ... visually. Thanks for pointing that out to the other viewers though! 👍

Sweet as, cheers.

In reality I picked up the model after 4 days and still got a little paint on my finger but it was basically dry by then. It is winter where I am at the moment though.

Don't worry too much, there are only three colours from the first version that is repeated in the second version.

Yea, these models look fantastic. I'm looking forward to experimenting with the other 3 models. Thanks for subscribing, and I hope you enjoy the next ones in the series. I hope to have a play with some oil paints and washes as well.

@@upskillinglife oh yeah (I actually just uploaded a video on oil paints - they're my fav). Oil gang ✊️.

Thank you! Cheers!

There are multiple mechanisms that cause the cracking. But I think the thick application and the fast drying time of the paints are the real problem. Maybe some drying retarder might solve the problem? Its really annoying, that people are bashing on AP like that because of that issue. They wanted a faster drying time to prevent reactivation, this leads now to cracking after a heavy application. Work in lighter applications and everything is fine... I wonder how the competitors perform with such a heavy application and pooling in the creases of the cloak. I'm pretty sure they will crack, too...

Sounds like you are not a fan of Army Painter! I happened to fall into Army Painter when I started so the majority of my paint is AP. I find it does the trick for me. Although I did branch out and got the 1st set (and pre-ordered the second) of Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coats range off kickstarter and I am extremely impressed with them! Out of interest, what Ink range do you use, I would be interested in trying some inks out with the airbrush!

100% agree -wasted £135 on the mega set - they join the sp1 set. As you say others have produced products that don’t come with the need for experiments by the customer….

What sort of light? Do you mean light direction and shadow on the model? - If so, two words. Air Brush. I haven’t tried it yet, but I think it would be good for one source lighting and spraying the airbrush from the angle of the one light source - such as a glowing orb on a staff. If that’s not the sort of light you mean, let me know and maybe I can work on a video about it.

@@upskillinglife that yes, but also talk about how you use the zenithol to keep track of lighting? Do you "glaze" to make it easier to see the underlying shadow vs highlight? I have attempted using actual light source and highlighting where the light hits. Thing is that changes when you move the model. Lol! So... you can't highlight everywhere! Lol!

Thanks, I will see if I can work some sort of video out around this at some stage. But in brief, a couple of things I do to keep track of the lighting is: Zenithal prime to give me the light direction and show the highlight/shadow area. Then at this point you can take a photo with your phone from the same angle as the light source, in theory everything you can see in the photo is in light and should be mid-highlight. The parts you cant see will be mid-shadow. You can then reference the photo’s while you paint. Also like you said, a glaze or translucent (speed,contrast paint or ink) over the zenithal, where you can still see the highlights and shading. Or if you are painting with more solid colours I tend to go through and throw my deep shadow colour in and highlight colours in (using the zenithal as a guide) then I go through and blend my mid tone in between the shadow and highlight. This allows me to keep track of the lighting until I am ready to blend the colours in. Again, the reference photo’s help with this as well. - Anyway, that’s a brief suggestion that will hopefully help you until I can get around to covering the topic in a video.

I think you would love an or brush man, especially on the larger scale models. I am in no way a pro with it but for getting Zenithal coats on and light direction it is a no brainer. And so quick on a larger scale model!

@@upskillinglife okay cool. Yeah, I have one coming next week. I saw no point in it painting miniatures. Now that I am printing, I am doing larger display stuff. Even for Zenithol I would rattle can it in regard to mini's. Lol!

Great, I think you are going to love it, once you get the hang of it. I tend to use it now, even on the mini’s as it just gives such awesome control to the zenithal prime. And I have used it a few times for a coloured Zenithal prime which I have found to be a bit of a game changer for me personally. Good luck playing with it, have fun!

I’m running a Mono X as well for the resin and a Chiron for my FDM. Mono X has been great but I would never say no to a bigger build plate. The Chiron is good but it definitely takes some effort to dial in - and I’m not quite there yet. Do you look for Statue sized models or just scale up smaller scale models to a larger size?

Yup, there was still some cracking on the heavy coat Army Painter primed models. Although it was probably 5 or 6 colours and not all of them. Which is why I tried with a lighter more controlled application and then I didn’t notice any cracking.

Thanks for your comment. I am interested as well, to know if it is more pronounced with certain colours.

Cheers. The ambient humidity was out of my control as well as temperature but as we know, both play a part in painting as well. It would be interesting to know how much they play a part.

@@upskillinglife I had serious cracking on a model today with 2.0, and it is quite humid outside. Didn't notice it especially in the house, but at the moment I can't figure out what else might have caused it.