Great video, love the ‘at the track testing’! However, stiffer springs don’t decrease the weight transfer under braking/acceleration. They Speed up the weight transfer because the spring doesn’t need to be compressed as far. The dampers are there to slow down the roll rate and control the body motions. In this case I think it’s evident the springs were entirely too stiff for the car as it was bouncing around (hearing the revs rise and fall)and ABS was kicking in even sooner. Perhaps the K2 dampers with a softer spring rate and some sway bar adjustments would be the happier setup at that track?
Geometry controls roll, squat/anti-squat, dive/anti-dive. Springs suspend the vehicle. Shocks/struts dampen spring action But as a bandaid springs can reduce weight transfer. Weight transfer is determined by center of gravity. Higher the cg the higher the force is applied relative to tires causing the car to rotate on an axis. The axis of rotation on cg is controlled by relation to axis created by suspension gemetry, rollcenter. If rollcenter is incorrect it creates more roll/squat/dive causing the cg to dynamically change to a higher position. The higher position dynamically makes the problem worse. Higher spring rates reduce the dynamic change and reduce the weight transfer but limit suspension travel & ability to tackle bumps. But it’s a bandaid. Ideally you want correct rollcenter if physically possible.
Tom Jones excellent explanation. But assuming the k1 vs k2 are at equal ride height , the geometry doesn’t change and therefore RC, CoG etc don’t change. So the stiffer springs would allow weight transfer to happen more quickly - that was my train of thought anyway. Your explanation was much better nonetheless.
As I stated but did not fully explain the relevance, softer springs allow more suspension travel. Given very similar g-forces applied (mostly limited in this case by tire friction) the soft spring will allow the suspesion to move the rollcenter further from cg. This is what I meant by it dynamically getting worse. So for example, if car is lowered 2.5” putting it outside of reasonable rollcenter. As the suspesion travels further due to soft spring rates it moves another 3” for total of 5.5” out of spec. With stiff spring rate the suspension might move 1” for total of 3.5” out of spec. Every 1” out of spec at the ride height maybe amplified by 10 times at actual rollcenter depending on physical geometry. So 3.5” vs 5.5” might be 20” difference in relationship between cg & rollcenter. 20” change in relative leverage is significant. From your point of view the initial force applied is equal therefore equal force is transferred to the tires regardless of how much spring compresses and if roll center and other factors remained constant that would be true. But what I’m saying is the suspesion dynamically moves further and further away from ideal rollcenter. And that causes more roll, squat, dive.
Tom Jones good explanation that just got better. This is great. A video should be made with animations showing this. I think it would be very helpful as it’s something that’s hard to visualize even when you understand. I never even thought of those effects honestly.
Same conditions were for the K1 with out all the minor adjustments you did for the K2. For a few tenths of a sec I think the K1 are a better deal on that civic since it’s street and track not only track
These are too stiff, you hear the revs bounce when taking a corner. To overcome the bodyroll, I would suggest welding at the seams of the body. It doesnt cost anything but time and it makes a huge difference. With fender braces, H braces, sway bars on a softer suspension setup it would probably make the car a bit faster and more comfy.
Wheel alignment after fitting the new coils will be all over the shop. Would be great to have seen a 3rd run, where an alignment was done, and see how much time you gain with proper setup that way. Always good to see a comparison all the same, nice work guys.
Jacob Walls while waviness might not be the best word if you watched the video you would know exactly what he’s talking about, it’s because the car is so stiff and bouncy the driver can’t maintain a smoothness on the gas pedal and you can hear it in the video
I need more Tech to get through the winter. Its only December. Side note I was there that day in the red c7 and got to see the badass2000 in person. Keep the channel growing!
Now maybe you will call me insane, but I thought I saw understeer. Ever try a higher spring rate in the rear than the front? Set it up to be tail happy so you can throttle out of the apex instead of coasting through? Can you swap the springs in that setup and see what it does? Maybe try and get a squared setup on the widest possible tire you can put under it? Or maybe even just try swapping the spring rates on the k1's?
Understeer city! In 25 years of racing FWD your ball park start is 50% more rear spring than the front, adjust that for the static weight distribution and I am willing to bet you would be about right if you swap the rear springs for the front. If you are using bump/rebound adjustment to hold a car up on weight transfer means you have a fundamentally flawed set up, the shock is there to control the spring, not replace it But hey, what would I know, the fashionista's are what drive the specifications of these products, people who actually race will be specifying custom springs and their own curves (Not saying Dave is a fashionista, but the bulk of sales are aimed at a certain segment)
Agreed that it went a bit wrong there, but that said your spring rates argument is also quite flawed. Entirely depends on suspension geometry and motion ratios. Personally, on this car squared rates would probably work pretty good, but not more on the rear. Otherwise car becomes too sketchy under braking and you lose time there. The rest of the balance you get with the wider front tyres/wheels which just makes sense, and a bigger rear swaybar (without overdoing it obviously).
@@WilliamLevesqueineX Agree that beefier rear bar on FWD car is a know simple first suspension mod to reduce understeer without drawback. Even just a bushing replacement on an OEM bar with 100+kms on it can make a big difference. It did on my ITR DC2. Car had 120ks on it and just replacing the rear sway bushes really reduced the understeer and made the car much more agile when autocrossing. Would have been even more so with a beefier bar.
@@WilliamLevesqueineX Yes, always effective rate :) I wish I could post photos here, I have an in car adjustable twin blade ARB on the rear of my car, the biggest thing you can do for FWD handling, and you can change it as the tyres come on
The interesting thing is that Japanese tuners tune FWD racecars completely opposite. They set up FWD cars to have a front bias: front springs stiffer than the rear, front anti-roll bars thicker or just as thick than the rear, and often wider track in the front compared to the rear. The difference in driving dynamics is huge. Both rotate, but heavy rear biased cars seem to snap oversteer during throttle lift and are more "lively" in quick side-to-side transitions whereas the front biased FWD cars seem a bit more balanced and more forgiving of sudden inputs.
@@TrackSol yes, that's interesting. I use stiffer rear springs than front and a thicker rear bar with same size tires but looking at the Japanese racers I don’t know which one might be better! would they be smarter?
Should of upgraded the rear sway bar. It seems too stiff and is under steering pretty bad. Best budget upgrade, if anyone else says they are useless they don't understand. The spring rates are a bit too high for a light chassis. The springs in my 3300 lb. Wagon are about the same. Easy fix is rear sway bar.
i prefer the K1 streets, seem to better suited to the track, maybe the spring rate on the streets mixed with the better dampers of the k2 would be better suited?
if you dont have it, camber kit would extract more when you dont have your geometry working for you now as you reduced the wheel travel which normally changes geometry for you.
damn must be nice not having too much snow! Here in Quebec we've had snow for over a month now. Im surprised by how much just a few hours of car can change
The K1 rates for my car at full weight of 3453lbs are 14k/8k. Now that the car weighs just a hair under 3050lbs the spring rates are perfect with a thicker adjustable anti roll bar and a NT01
Run the same rates on my k swap coupe but not using a Rear Roll Bar, it's a great setup in my opinion. That may change now with the added stiffness of the cage I've just added though. Cool video either way guys, more k swap action needed 😊
Because that's boring and doesn't keep the sponsors happy. Great way to prove how useless K2 was in this scenario. The right bracing is needed to support stiffer springs.
Swaybars make a HUGE difference if done properly. Seam welding and suspension bracing would also make a noticeable difference. But if the car is still driven on the street, the softer springs could still be used and the ride wouldnt be terrible
Can you maybe examine section times? Or maybe "optimal" lap times where even if you don't get one full lap in, as long as you got to go fast in each section it'll let you know what your time could have been. We would rather hear that than no answer seeing how bouncy it was when first installed.
Can you make a video on how to tune in a set of coilovers. How to choose the right dampening for the right conditions? When do I know if the dampening isnt enough and if I need to look into spring rates. That would be interesting and helpful content
With ABS kicking in to early, sounds like a good time to upgrade to a Teves MK60 standalone ABS system from late model BMW E46 M3 and get it flashed with a motorsports tune.
I'd love to see the K1's with stiffer swaybars to control roll but still allow more comfort on the street! Looking @ K's, Tein's or Revel's for an RSX DD.
K1 definitely seemed to suit that track better, perhaps keeping those and tuning the ARBs would’ve improved the overall package more. The K2 are comparable to all the other hardcore version Taiwan coilovers - mega high spring rates and shocks which just don’t seem to match them at all (IMO)
Increased wheel rates increases weight transfer rate (doesn't reduce weight transfer), makes dampers work harder, and flexes the frame more. a bouncing wheel isn't creating traction and is evidence that the dampers can't control the wheel. hard to believe it's "a second" faster. bouncing tires heat tires up - maybe the street set up wants narrower tires? Did you measure tire temps before/after? You should have Race Car Vehicle Dynamics by Milliken in your library.
U know i was a ricer one day and lovedddd how does old k and high revving engines sound! To bad they dont sounf like that no more and now there turboed instead, if honda ever got their shit together and started making high revving na engines again i be swayed to to being a ricer once more lol
Super bouncy, the engine is revving up from how much the car bounces...i'd bet any time you picked up is from your preference to the new setup and the change in balance. The reduction in weight transfer due to leaning 1 vs 2 degrees is probably like 30lbs for that car. 30lbs less weight transfer doesn't give you over a second of time. Jump curbs a bit more on the soft setup(cuz you can) and they'd be closer.
I know the Ek is sponsored by K-tuned and all, but go buy some real coil overs like Koni race and ground control or AMR or Eibach etc. Sorry but these are just another run of the mill coilover...
Nah man. I have 12k and I want stiffer. Once you get used to it, it feels soft. It just depends on your preferences. I personally like stiffer suspension with good amount of rebound. But that's just me.
Why are trying to control body roll specifically with coilovers? That can be done with sway bars. A bouncy car is not a fast car, you need the proper dampening to put the tire back down on the ground on bumpy surfaces.
Those dampers don't seem to be able to handle that high of a spring rate. The bouncyness was still there after you adjusted the damper settings. More than likely they are the same dampers just with stiffer springs. With proper Eibach/Hyperco springs and a damper that can handle it there is probably more than a second.
What happened to the 17's from the last video? I seem to recall the car working better on those. Curious to see how it handles with the new coilovers and the 17"s.
@@jona_ej2330 You have to tell them what rates you want and what you'll be using it for. Street/Circuit/Drag/etc. They'll valve it and build it to how you want it.
Yes, rear should be stiffer, even allowing for static weight distribution the load is about the same when the rear should be 50% more, but these are off the shelf fashion accessories
The people who think 5/10th's per lap is not much must not drive more than needed. Sure, it's not the largest split but if you are consistently putting a half second between the person behind you each lap, that adds up at the end. I used to own a black 1999 Civic Ex so watching this is nice but disappointing at the same time. I wanted to turn that car into something fun like this but never got the chance. Now I own a 2012 Toyota Corolla and it's an automatic. One day I will build my dream Acura/Honda. It will either be a 06-08 K24A2 swapped into either a DB2 clone or a EJ8.
@@manelfernandes17 Thanks for replying, I asked because here in Asia I've never found or seen a Civic Coupe before, other than the North American spec versions for LHD markets.
The difference between the two is only your knowledge of suspension tuning. You can make a higher end coil over set up just as useless as air bags when you have no clue what you’re doing.
At this point I know Toronto motorsports park better than my home track
That Civic is clean this is how a Honda should be
BASITH PH better dirty
Jdm jay that’s for Subaru
BASITH PH tru😂
I'd reckon those rates might be more needed for aero. Looks pretty bouncy.
Great video, love the ‘at the track testing’! However, stiffer springs don’t decrease the weight transfer under braking/acceleration. They Speed up the weight transfer because the spring doesn’t need to be compressed as far. The dampers are there to slow down the roll rate and control the body motions. In this case I think it’s evident the springs were entirely too stiff for the car as it was bouncing around (hearing the revs rise and fall)and ABS was kicking in even sooner. Perhaps the K2 dampers with a softer spring rate and some sway bar adjustments would be the happier setup at that track?
Yeah these rates seem optimised more for a car on slicks and with some aero work...
Geometry controls roll, squat/anti-squat, dive/anti-dive.
Springs suspend the vehicle.
Shocks/struts dampen spring action
But as a bandaid springs can reduce weight transfer. Weight transfer is determined by center of gravity. Higher the cg the higher the force is applied relative to tires causing the car to rotate on an axis. The axis of rotation on cg is controlled by relation to axis created by suspension gemetry, rollcenter. If rollcenter is incorrect it creates more roll/squat/dive causing the cg to dynamically change to a higher position. The higher position dynamically makes the problem worse. Higher spring rates reduce the dynamic change and reduce the weight transfer but limit suspension travel & ability to tackle bumps. But it’s a bandaid. Ideally you want correct rollcenter if physically possible.
Tom Jones excellent explanation. But assuming the k1 vs k2 are at equal ride height , the geometry doesn’t change and therefore RC, CoG etc don’t change. So the stiffer springs would allow weight transfer to happen more quickly - that was my train of thought anyway. Your explanation was much better nonetheless.
As I stated but did not fully explain the relevance, softer springs allow more suspension travel. Given very similar g-forces applied (mostly limited in this case by tire friction) the soft spring will allow the suspesion to move the rollcenter further from cg. This is what I meant by it dynamically getting worse. So for example, if car is lowered 2.5” putting it outside of reasonable rollcenter. As the suspesion travels further due to soft spring rates it moves another 3” for total of 5.5” out of spec. With stiff spring rate the suspension might move 1” for total of 3.5” out of spec. Every 1” out of spec at the ride height maybe amplified by 10 times at actual rollcenter depending on physical geometry. So 3.5” vs 5.5” might be 20” difference in relationship between cg & rollcenter. 20” change in relative leverage is significant.
From your point of view the initial force applied is equal therefore equal force is transferred to the tires regardless of how much spring compresses and if roll center and other factors remained constant that would be true. But what I’m saying is the suspesion dynamically moves further and further away from ideal rollcenter. And that causes more roll, squat, dive.
Tom Jones good explanation that just got better. This is great. A video should be made with animations showing this. I think it would be very helpful as it’s something that’s hard to visualize even when you understand. I never even thought of those effects honestly.
Same conditions were for the K1 with out all the minor adjustments you did for the K2. For a few tenths of a sec I think the K1 are a better deal on that civic since it’s street and track not only track
True man for the extra hundred bucks spent on the k2's you can get performance parts to go a bit faster
Speed academy deserves so much more exposure/subscribers. Too many people sleepin on speed academy
These are too stiff, you hear the revs bounce when taking a corner.
To overcome the bodyroll, I would suggest welding at the seams of the body. It doesnt cost anything but time and it makes a huge difference.
With fender braces, H braces, sway bars on a softer suspension setup it would probably make the car a bit faster and more comfy.
Actually it sounds like a its pogo sticking. Because those cheap ktuned can't handle the spring rates.
Wheel alignment after fitting the new coils will be all over the shop. Would be great to have seen a 3rd run, where an alignment was done, and see how much time you gain with proper setup that way. Always good to see a comparison all the same, nice work guys.
i swear this is some of the best content on youtube
Looks a bit stiff for that track, you can hear the motors waviness coming out of the turns.
Waviness?
Jacob Walls while waviness might not be the best word if you watched the video you would know exactly what he’s talking about, it’s because the car is so stiff and bouncy the driver can’t maintain a smoothness on the gas pedal and you can hear it in the video
I can hear the waviness in drivers voice too. Yeah springs are too stiff.
Dampers are probably naff as well
i've just fitted BC coilvers to my MK1 golf, they are street springs and are 5kg front and 3kg rear. 20 and 16 sound very high!!
I need more Tech to get through the winter. Its only December. Side note I was there that day in the red c7 and got to see the badass2000 in person. Keep the channel growing!
K 20 sounds amazing ripping through tec!😎
Man, I love the k20swapped Civic ek! Need more content of it.
Now maybe you will call me insane, but I thought I saw understeer. Ever try a higher spring rate in the rear than the front? Set it up to be tail happy so you can throttle out of the apex instead of coasting through? Can you swap the springs in that setup and see what it does? Maybe try and get a squared setup on the widest possible tire you can put under it? Or maybe even just try swapping the spring rates on the k1's?
Understeer city! In 25 years of racing FWD your ball park start is 50% more rear spring than the front, adjust that for the static weight distribution and I am willing to bet you would be about right if you swap the rear springs for the front. If you are using bump/rebound adjustment to hold a car up on weight transfer means you have a fundamentally flawed set up, the shock is there to control the spring, not replace it But hey, what would I know, the fashionista's are what drive the specifications of these products, people who actually race will be specifying custom springs and their own curves (Not saying Dave is a fashionista, but the bulk of sales are aimed at a certain segment)
Agreed that it went a bit wrong there, but that said your spring rates argument is also quite flawed. Entirely depends on suspension geometry and motion ratios.
Personally, on this car squared rates would probably work pretty good, but not more on the rear. Otherwise car becomes too sketchy under braking and you lose time there. The rest of the balance you get with the wider front tyres/wheels which just makes sense, and a bigger rear swaybar (without overdoing it obviously).
@@WilliamLevesqueineX Agree that beefier rear bar on FWD car is a know simple first suspension mod to reduce understeer without drawback. Even just a bushing replacement on an OEM bar with 100+kms on it can make a big difference. It did on my ITR DC2. Car had 120ks on it and just replacing the rear sway bushes really reduced the understeer and made the car much more agile when autocrossing. Would have been even more so with a beefier bar.
@@WilliamLevesqueineX Yes, always effective rate :) I wish I could post photos here, I have an in car adjustable twin blade ARB on the rear of my car, the biggest thing you can do for FWD handling, and you can change it as the tyres come on
The interesting thing is that Japanese tuners tune FWD racecars completely opposite. They set up FWD cars to have a front bias: front springs stiffer than the rear, front anti-roll bars thicker or just as thick than the rear, and often wider track in the front compared to the rear. The difference in driving dynamics is huge. Both rotate, but heavy rear biased cars seem to snap oversteer during throttle lift and are more "lively" in quick side-to-side transitions whereas the front biased FWD cars seem a bit more balanced and more forgiving of sudden inputs.
@@TrackSol
yes, that's interesting. I use stiffer rear springs than front and a thicker rear bar with same size tires but looking at the Japanese racers I don’t know which one might be better! would they be smarter?
Should of upgraded the rear sway bar. It seems too stiff and is under steering pretty bad. Best budget upgrade, if anyone else says they are useless they don't understand.
The spring rates are a bit too high for a light chassis. The springs in my 3300 lb. Wagon are about the same.
Easy fix is rear sway bar.
Dang changing shocks at the track! Big props
Love the track videos! Never change this simple format
Reppin tec PT! That civic still haves a lot of room for improvement. Keep up the good work.
I love these comparisons. There’s definitely more left in that car. When it hit VTec is sounds soo good.
This is my first time coming across this channel and this blog is awesome !! Keep the great content coming .
Welcome and thank you!
i prefer the K1 streets, seem to better suited to the track, maybe the spring rate on the streets mixed with the better dampers of the k2 would be better suited?
Stiff springs are fun. On my cb7 I have 15k spring rate up front and I think 10k on the back
Nice comparison, these vids are super fun to watch. keep it up!
Good job with the sound effects on the lap times
Great video guys!! 🙌
if you dont have it, camber kit would extract more when you dont have your geometry working for you now as you reduced the wheel travel which normally changes geometry for you.
damn must be nice not having too much snow! Here in Quebec we've had snow for over a month now. Im surprised by how much just a few hours of car can change
The K1 rates for my car at full weight of 3453lbs are 14k/8k. Now that the car weighs just a hair under 3050lbs the spring rates are perfect with a thicker adjustable anti roll bar and a NT01
Run the same rates on my k swap coupe but not using a Rear Roll Bar, it's a great setup in my opinion. That may change now with the added stiffness of the cage I've just added though. Cool video either way guys, more k swap action needed 😊
Why not upgrade the sway bars first
Because that's boring and doesn't keep the sponsors happy.
Great way to prove how useless K2 was in this scenario.
The right bracing is needed to support stiffer springs.
@OCD Stig I disagree, these 88-00 civic and 90-01 integra chassis benefit greatly from stiffer sway bars, especially when paired with coilovers
@Lucky Rooster You know whats up. Makes a huge impact on the car. Its a shitty long job to do but its worth it.
@OCD Stig going from an em1 13mm to a 22mm ITR rear bar was noticable for me even with the stock suspension
Swaybars make a HUGE difference if done properly. Seam welding and suspension bracing would also make a noticeable difference. But if the car is still driven on the street, the softer springs could still be used and the ride wouldnt be terrible
Swap springs, put 16kg up front and 20kg in back. Less ABS lockup and better accel out of corner. Probably less overall bounce too.
Yup. I think the front tires will get more grip too
The car will oversteer too much.
Nice.
You should make a comparison of full aero vs 0 aero. big spoilers and big front splitters of course
Can you maybe examine section times? Or maybe "optimal" lap times where even if you don't get one full lap in, as long as you got to go fast in each section it'll let you know what your time could have been. We would rather hear that than no answer seeing how bouncy it was when first installed.
This is my fav car on the channel !
Love the comparison videos… keeping them coming
.5 second improvement in pace becomes a 10 second lead after 20 laps.
Can you make a video on how to tune in a set of coilovers. How to choose the right dampening for the right conditions? When do I know if the dampening isnt enough and if I need to look into spring rates. That would be interesting and helpful content
Can’t get rid of all the roll with the stock body flexing. Needs spot welds and full cage to complement the K2 coilovers.
Streets coilovers are better .
Had some stiffer Swaybar and tighten up the chassis and it will run a faster time than the socall racing coilovers
With ABS kicking in to early, sounds like a good time to upgrade to a Teves MK60 standalone ABS system from late model BMW E46 M3 and get it flashed with a motorsports tune.
I'd love to see the K1's with stiffer swaybars to control roll but still allow more comfort on the street! Looking @ K's, Tein's or Revel's for an RSX DD.
K1 definitely seemed to suit that track better, perhaps keeping those and tuning the ARBs would’ve improved the overall package more.
The K2 are comparable to all the other hardcore version Taiwan coilovers - mega high spring rates and shocks which just don’t seem to match them at all (IMO)
Increased wheel rates increases weight transfer rate (doesn't reduce weight transfer), makes dampers work harder, and flexes the frame more. a bouncing wheel isn't creating traction and is evidence that the dampers can't control the wheel. hard to believe it's "a second" faster. bouncing tires heat tires up - maybe the street set up wants narrower tires? Did you measure tire temps before/after? You should have Race Car Vehicle Dynamics by Milliken in your library.
Needs more rear spring rate than the front like 14f and 16r
U know i was a ricer one day and lovedddd how does old k and high revving engines sound! To bad they dont sounf like that no more and now there turboed instead, if honda ever got their shit together and started making high revving na engines again i be swayed to to being a ricer once more lol
I would have like to see a major change in the sway bars before going to stiffer springs, you said it yourself that the track is bumpy
Super bouncy, the engine is revving up from how much the car bounces...i'd bet any time you picked up is from your preference to the new setup and the change in balance. The reduction in weight transfer due to leaning 1 vs 2 degrees is probably like 30lbs for that car. 30lbs less weight transfer doesn't give you over a second of time.
Jump curbs a bit more on the soft setup(cuz you can) and they'd be closer.
When you get held up by a porch driving a civic! Hahah good job guys, always nice to see and hear this thing making laps and progress!
you probs just lost that .5 of a second due to less fuel in the tank really lol
Another great video!!!
I know the Ek is sponsored by K-tuned and all, but go buy some real coil overs like Koni race and ground control or AMR or Eibach etc. Sorry but these are just another run of the mill coilover...
Aren't those Ktuned coilovers made by Bor-Chaunn from Taiwan? Like most of the generic coilovers out there?
Made in Ontario Canada
@@jonnyweber3311 made in Taiwan. Says on the box they come in
i thought on fwd civics,front spring rates show be higher then rear?
That is insane spring rate!! I had 12k all around on my sentra and dammm that's even stiff lol
Nah man. I have 12k and I want stiffer. Once you get used to it, it feels soft. It just depends on your preferences. I personally like stiffer suspension with good amount of rebound. But that's just me.
Smashed it ten times!!
Isn't that angle on the harness dangerous?
Think they should have went with 14k front 16k rear, vs the current set up. I find too stiff in the front yields too much pushing.
holy track side coilover swap batman!
Why are trying to control body roll specifically with coilovers? That can be done with sway bars. A bouncy car is not a fast car, you need the proper dampening to put the tire back down on the ground on bumpy surfaces.
i wonder if they are going to put a baffle in the sump, look how much oil pressure it drops through left hand corners
How did I miss this?
Dammit... don't rip at 50% of available unicorns. We pay you for all of the unico... oh wait. Great job as always!
Those dampers don't seem to be able to handle that high of a spring rate. The bouncyness was still there after you adjusted the damper settings. More than likely they are the same dampers just with stiffer springs. With proper Eibach/Hyperco springs and a damper that can handle it there is probably more than a second.
That road IS bumpy. Now make me happy and make another video.
You Civic looks awesome.
Are you ever going to go with wider wheels? 225 on a 15x7 is looking pretty plump!
And for the mountain roads? Street? Track?
What happened to the 17's from the last video? I seem to recall the car working better on those. Curious to see how it handles with the new coilovers and the 17"s.
Which one u recommend for drag racing?
Always impressed with your driving.
P.S Stop drifting and keep doing everything else :)
For the price, I'd rather stick with AMR coilovers. Nice video comparison though.
Amr is a brand or what?
@@jona_ej2330 Yes, AMR Engineering. Built to order.. you can get Swift springs with them as well.
@@BESTNOODLEREVIEWS what are the rate springs? Visit the website and not see anything, thanks!
@@jona_ej2330 You have to tell them what rates you want and what you'll be using it for. Street/Circuit/Drag/etc. They'll valve it and build it to how you want it.
@@BESTNOODLEREVIEWS ok! Thanks man!
I don’t believe that set up would have abs. Am I wrong?
What spring rates would you guys recommend for a track focus 1st gen rx7. Will be widebody with 10in wide tires on each corner?
Hello. Someone know where to get missing parts for K1 street. I'm missing a rear spring adjuster for my 2007 Civic si
How are these coilovers on the street?
thats quite bouncy! O_O! that high of spring rates, why not go with digressive shocks?
I have a question, what handles better? a coupe civic like this or a hatch, like the ek?
from a aero standpoint the coupe is better. from a weight standpoint the hatch is better. in real life there is not really that much in it.
It really looks like it's oversprung and needs higher quality/additional damper adjustment.
Why not stiffer rear than front springs? Should help it rotate more
Yes, rear should be stiffer, even allowing for static weight distribution the load is about the same when the rear should be 50% more, but these are off the shelf fashion accessories
Add bigger swaybars! Bigger rear bar would also help turn the back end
@@notso100 filed under "reasons to go with companies that offer custom springs"
Higher rear rates and massive ARB’s are just bandaids for poor geometry.
@@grantd007grantd agree on ARBs, disagree on spring rates.
Any change in bump steer with the more aggressive coils at all?
Okay do a road test now see how you would like to live with the ride of the track shocks.
This is day.......100 of the five day Civic build?
Bahahahaha
Excelent video.
The people who think 5/10th's per lap is not much must not drive more than needed. Sure, it's not the largest split but if you are consistently putting a half second between the person behind you each lap, that adds up at the end. I used to own a black 1999 Civic Ex so watching this is nice but disappointing at the same time. I wanted to turn that car into something fun like this but never got the chance. Now I own a 2012 Toyota Corolla and it's an automatic. One day I will build my dream Acura/Honda. It will either be a 06-08 K24A2 swapped into either a DB2 clone or a EJ8.
Why dont you disable ABS ?
Sheesh, these Porsches are always holding everyone up haha
This one look like a truck :-)
@@serlegar ?
@@Aiello_ Big fat Porsche 911 driving in slow motion.
@@serlegar oh haha
Driving expensive car slowly syndrome so it doesn't go into the ditch
I’ll stick with my function form type 2’s
Spring rates are too high. Sway bar would be better at managing body roll.
Please please please use a HANS Device on track.
So basically just get really stiff Swift springs for what whatever your setup is.
Can someone tell me what type of gauges are those in the center dash?
Slightly strange question, but is the Civic Coupe only available in North America?
Nope in Euro 2 atleast
@@manelfernandes17 Thanks for replying, I asked because here in Asia I've never found or seen a Civic Coupe before, other than the North American spec versions for LHD markets.
@@aaronbryan5095 first off they are in canada....
Wideband reading 15.9 👀. Time 💣
That reading kept going up to 163+ during the video, is that possibly oil temp?
@@ChrisHale0629 Not Possibly, 100%.
its a water temp - not wideband. WATER / OIL pres / OIL Temp
Seems like the shocks don't match the spring rates at all. One word...go fortune auto.
The difference between the two is only your knowledge of suspension tuning. You can make a higher end coil over set up just as useless as air bags when you have no clue what you’re doing.
@9:15 lmfaoooo SOB so funny
Dosen't matter you can't just bolt them on and expect more grip.
Nice!!
K-tuned makes such great products