I work a lot on kia/hyundai, and this happens on 2.0 and 1.8. Sometimes, they will fire right up and other times, they will jump time again.Just did one today, and it did it.I have to put it back in time.
That’s wild to me that it’s that bad. Any upgraded tensioner or anything people can do to help this from happening again? I’ll pin yours to the top for now. Thanks for watching!
Been there, I did about 20 so far and you know what? I zip tie the two guides now just enough that it will NEVER literally never jump again. Foking insane.
@@dieggogoncalves874 I dont think so. if you are comfortable with a wire or something you can fabricate, sky is the limit. But as far as I'm concerned that's the fix. Lol
Oh my God, this guide is EXACTLY what I needed and extremely informative. Thank you for taking the time to share this, it is very appreciated and helpful. Thank you.
Just did one today, couldnt understand the reason for the 3 degrees....im assuming once you put tension back on the chain it will move the timing marks so theyll line up....i didn't do that though, i just used a couple of vice grips to lock the cams down and made sure the crank was positioned properly and installed the chain that way. Spun the engine over several times and the marks line up so im gonna cross my fingers that its timed right
@JunkyardJunkie I replaced the exhaust cam and cvvt unit for a p0017...after the repair I was letting it idle, checked for codes after 10 minutes and p0017 was pending. My stomach just sank....then I realized I hadn't reset the adaptive values and once I did that it's been smooth sailing
Haha yes you could have commented on that video. But ya a regular hand stapler will work. Make sure to get the right size stainless steel staples, that I mention in the description of that video. I believe I said in the video you can use a hand stapler it’s just easier and faster with the air powered. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
If it doesn’t jump time can’t I just make sure that the timing is set at tdc and then just use a couple wrenches stuck together to hold the cams where they should stay?
what causes chain slack? I have a 2013 Elantra with 70K miles and I want to do preventative maintenance so the engine will last longer. What can I replace and when to replace to prevent timing jump? Thank you!
So the absolute best thing you can do is keep up with your oil changes. People don’t realize how important it really is. So I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie thank you! agreed. I do my oil changes every 3k or 6 months which ever comes first. I do it myself so the cost isn’t crazy even with OEM filter.
I have a 2019 Elantra I’m replacing the chain bc out of timing. On the list of parts I see Timing Cover Gasket. Idk what that is and I can’t find it. Is it necessary ? I didn’t hear him mention it. Thank u so much
Timing cover gasket is like this: a.co/d/1tQ2dwz You have to apply it all the way around the cover, but I show all of that in the video. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Thanks! I worked hard on trying to make it a good video for everyone. How I checked to see if it was serious engine issues, is a leak down test. As shown here on my video: How to do a cylinder leak down test (EASY) th-cam.com/video/41xnWPVSe14/w-d-xo.html However if you just want to see if it jumped time, you could pull the valve cover and see if the two points line up. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I have a question. I have a Hyundai Elantra 1 and 8 engine 2015 Limited. When I start it in the cold, the sound comes from the engine. It is good if the oil does not burn. There may be a problem
Those engines are known for that on cold starts as it waits for the engine oil to get back to the top. I know there was something out stating to use oem filters too or it could cause damage. Honestly Hyundai tend to have engine problems. If not that then the little plastic gear in your steering is prone to failing too. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkieonly reason why hyundais have problems is because the US built models were poorly built. The korea built ones dont have the big issues the US have. Youll know if its korea built if the first letter of the VIN starts with K. if it starts with the number 5 or any other number, its a US build. Hyundais are really good reliable cars, i blame our country for purposly building an engine with poor quality or assembled parts so that the money goes around. Its the same corrupted business idea that Apple did when they were slowing iphones down per update. smh.
Hello I’m attempting this job in my garage, can you elaborate more on the three degrees? So I first line up the crank at tdc and spin it three degrees past TDC before taking off the crank pulley?
Yes so you should be able to see in the images I provided. But if I remember correctly it is when you’re going to line everything up you will have to turn the crank shaft 1-3 degrees in order to get it to line up correctly. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I have a 2017 Accent that I need to change the valve stem seals. Question where can you get a service manual for Hyundai’s? I can’t find one anywhere.
Thanks! I use alldata. They have it where you can buy the professional version where you can look up any cars but pretty costly. Or you can pay just to have your vehicle’s info. Highly recommend it I believe it’s like 50 a month for the diy version. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
It had p0014 along with misfire on 2 of the cylinders. I suggest checking compression. Hopefully this isn’t your problem but these engines are pretty terrible. If you do have to do it or want to remove your engine it’s not too bad, heres a link to a video I made fully covering it: th-cam.com/video/mgPXhwb--aU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=wjuzHfC0HyDTuWUn Hope this helps. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your reply. No misfire, just P0014. Runs great for 10, 30, 50+ miles at different speeds, but P0014 keeps coming back. Engine oil is clean, OCV's replaced etc...any other idea? I'll pay you to come fix it! 🙂 @@JunkyardJunkie
Ok so remember that after you time it it won’t ever look like it’s in time again even when I did the two revolutions the marks no longer line up. But pretty common on these that the valve may be burnt. Check out my other video where I show you how to do a leak down test this will be a sure fire way to tell what’s going on. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Getting ready to help my son with this job. He ran it low on oil and we're thinking the timing chain jumped because of that actuator needing oil pressure. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that he didn't damage the valves.
I’m glad you’re helping him. That’s always good quality time. But I hope so too. Unfortunately these engines are extremely weak add that with low oil may want to do a leak down test to see what all is effected. I have a video on that as well if you need help. Best of luck. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching!
So you don't have to put the sealant threadbond on the entire mating surface just where the 4 mating spots on the block and head? I'm know that what you showed but I'm just making damn sure before I put it all together. Thank you sir great vid.
So yes you want to go all the way around the cover and in the spots shown between cam carrier and head, and head and block. Trust me I know how much work it is to do but you’ll get it done! If I can do it you can do it. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie yes sir thank you so much I'm having to rebuild the entire engine in my 2016 Elantra get it threw a rod bearing right after I finished paying it off. But thanks for the reply junkyard much appreciated I got a rebuild kit from DNJ I got a couple gaskets that idk where they go or what they are if I added the pics of them you think you might be able to help me out there?
Ya that’s normal unfortunately. Like I showed in the video the tensioner is oil driven. So, it takes a second to build that pressure. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
The reason your tensioner is moving in and out, and the reason your chain is hopping on the cam gears is because it looks like you may have forgotten to reduce chain slack or backlash on the right side of the crank sprocket upon installation of the chain. This is also the reason for the recommended 3 degree adjustment. Remember the tensioner can only reduce chain slack on the left side of the crank sprocket for obvious reasons.
I did the 3 degree adjustment. But can you explain why you think this would be the issue? As I showed in the video the tensioner doesn’t have a ratcheting mechanism. So it is purely tensioned via oil pressure.
Usually a tensioner going bad but it could be other things like your timing chain guides breaking or chain slack and etc. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Just changed my chain but still have the same problems.. its still making that sound when revving like the one in your video, its the exact same sound. Do you think i shouls replace the phasers?
There is a dial pen on the inside of the exhaust phaser that can shear off and if it's gone it will still have a problem until you replace it. Needs checked once you remove the chain. The exhaust is bank 1 phaser against the firewall. The big sprocket looking round deal the chain wraps around the two of them. The other is the intake bank 2
Did you follow my other video? How to do a cylinder leak down test (EASY) th-cam.com/video/41xnWPVSe14/w-d-xo.html This will make sure your motor is healthy. If you have loss greater than 15 you could have brunt valves or other issues that has to be fixed. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Thanks. Was curious. I have a 2017 Elantra I bought new in August of 2016. It's been a fantastic car. I have 105.000 thousand miles on it now. It has had 0 repairs, and 0 issues. Only things not original on the car is tires ,2 batteries , and wiper blades. It runs and sounds like new, uses no oil. I do take very good care of my cars. It has had 3000 mile oil changes, using Castrol GTX, 5 30, since new. 5 20 recommended, but owners manuel says 5 30, 10,30 may be used, so I chose that. Most reliable car I've ever owned. I've only bought new cars since 1980, so I've had a bunch, some expensive, some cheap like this car. None have gone 100.000 miles without needing some repairs. Even the brake pads are original, I had them inspected 4 months ago when I bought new tires, again I was told, nope there stil good, still don't need new pads yet! Amazing. And no, I'm not running stop lights, and going thru stop signs! 😊
That’s great. I do love the look and feel of these cars. The fact you had it since new and kept proper maintenance I guarantee has helped it do as well as it’s doing. But, they are known to have weak motors. Keep up the good maintenance and I hope you get a ton more miles out of it!
12:35 Probably one of the MOST troubling aspects for timing chain lineups. I can enlighten you and others on this. 1) Make sure you set up timing correctly on installation, obviously. 2) That Hyundai tech is wrong. The timing marks WILL line up with the chain... eventually. It will take like 20-40 revolutions or whatever but it will come back to all marks lining up on chain and sprockets. It is not like the old days where 2 revolutions will line everything and every mark back up. Here's why.... In this case and many others, the timing marks are on only the chain and the sprockets. Timing marks used to be on the crank & cam sprockets and the BLOCK and HEADS, and NOT on the belt or chain. If this Hyundai (and other cars) had timing marks only on the crank and cam sprockets and the block and heads, those timing marks WILL INDEED line up every 2 revolutions, but not with the chain. The issue here is now the marks are on the CHAIN and not the block and heads. Say the chain has (these numbers are for example, only) 130 links, while the crank has say 25 and the cams have 50. You do 2 revolutions of the crank, you will have moved the chain 50 links. Now those marked chain links will be 50 links away from your crank sprocket marks and 25 links from your cam sprocket marks, BUT .... your crank and cam sprocket marks will be exactly where they were in relation to the BLOCK and HEAD when you first installed the chain. At this point, it does not matter where the marked chain links are. Go another 2 revolutions, and now the sprocket marks again line up to where they were at installation (again in relation to the block and head), and now the timing CHAIN marks have traveled 100 links away from the crank sprockets and 50 links away from the cam sprockets. Eventually, and someone can do the math, like whatever the least common denominator of 25,50 and 130 is, 20-40 revolutions or whatever will bring everything back in line as it was in installation. It is just that tech sheets and alldata and the like do not elaborate on much of anything to set minds at ease for common causes of concern. They should make side notes in those instructions in parentheses or whatever, saying something like "These marks will line up after 40 revolutions" or somehow tell you not to worry that they won't line up in 2 revolutions as most cars have historically. Now for the chain slack jump at the end, that's bad. I don't think that should happen, even before the first startup. When the engine is off or low rpms, the cam phasers should be locked in position in themselves and function as basically one piece. At higher rpms, the pin inside them unlocks and they fill with oil and allow variation of the cam timing. The cam phasers are spring loaded iwthin, wanting to go to the locked position. Sometimes, the pin mechanism is bad and/or your tensioner is not functioning and what happens is you'll get this chain hopping thing as the cams go over their springs and get spun forward. I agree on your assessment of the tensioner.
Good video but you neglected to show the crank at TDC before installing. I've been retiming this same engine for the past year because of following the step that state to turn the crank two to rhree notches and then realigning the camshafts. Come to find out I shouldn't have touch the cams only move the crank 2-3 notches then install the chain. You were kinda doing the same thing I always do but you didn't move the crank the 2-3 notches. I just finished it again on today 3-3-24. Also you didn't need to remove the water pump only the pulley.👍👍
Thanks but for the 2-3 notches I included the resources on screen and showed the end result that it’ll line up With the colored link. Glad you got yours straightened out. Thanks for watching!
Hello I had a noise on my elantra and my dad figured out it was the chain tensioner, he replace it and the noise is gone, but now when we turn on the car the RPM is between 1500 and 2000 on parking, and it give us the code P0016 AND P0017 can you help us? He didn't change the chain, just the tensioner, does he need to move the timing or what does he need to do? Thanks in advance
I work a lot on kia/hyundai, and this happens on 2.0 and 1.8. Sometimes, they will fire right up and other times, they will jump time again.Just did one today, and it did it.I have to put it back in time.
That’s wild to me that it’s that bad. Any upgraded tensioner or anything people can do to help this from happening again? I’ll pin yours to the top for now. Thanks for watching!
Been there, I did about 20 so far and you know what? I zip tie the two guides now just enough that it will NEVER literally never jump again. Foking insane.
@@benz240dzip tie doesn't melt?
@@dieggogoncalves874 I dont think so. if you are comfortable with a wire or something you can fabricate, sky is the limit. But as far as I'm concerned that's the fix. Lol
What cause timming for i30 to jump aways
Oh my God, this guide is EXACTLY what I needed and extremely informative. Thank you for taking the time to share this, it is very appreciated and helpful. Thank you.
I’m glad I could help! Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkieme 2 thanks bro
Just did one today, couldnt understand the reason for the 3 degrees....im assuming once you put tension back on the chain it will move the timing marks so theyll line up....i didn't do that though, i just used a couple of vice grips to lock the cams down and made sure the crank was positioned properly and installed the chain that way. Spun the engine over several times and the marks line up so im gonna cross my fingers that its timed right
If they line up you should be good to go! Let me know how it turns out. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie just cranked it up, so far so good
@JunkyardJunkie I replaced the exhaust cam and cvvt unit for a p0017...after the repair I was letting it idle, checked for codes after 10 minutes and p0017 was pending. My stomach just sank....then I realized I hadn't reset the adaptive values and once I did that it's been smooth sailing
Haha oh ya that would defiantly be a heart sinking moment. Glad you got it though!
had did you reset the values? just delete codes? @@jharrison6557
Hey you once used an air stapler, on changing a mustang convertible top will a hand stapler work?
Haha yes you could have commented on that video. But ya a regular hand stapler will work. Make sure to get the right size stainless steel staples, that I mention in the description of that video. I believe I said in the video you can use a hand stapler it’s just easier and faster with the air powered. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
If it doesn’t jump time can’t I just make sure that the timing is set at tdc and then just use a couple wrenches stuck together to hold the cams where they should stay?
Ya if it hasn’t jumped time then ya that would work. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Hi sir, please show me how to replace the gearbox filter if possible
The client didn’t want that yet if he ever does I will. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
what causes chain slack? I have a 2013 Elantra with 70K miles and I want to do preventative maintenance so the engine will last longer. What can I replace and when to replace to prevent timing jump? Thank you!
So the absolute best thing you can do is keep up with your oil changes. People don’t realize how important it really is. So I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie thank you! agreed. I do my oil changes every 3k or 6 months which ever comes first. I do it myself so the cost isn’t crazy even with OEM filter.
Good, that’s the best way to do it. I’m sure your car is nice and healthy then!
I have a 2019 Elantra I’m replacing the chain bc out of timing. On the list of parts I see Timing Cover Gasket. Idk what that is and I can’t find it. Is it necessary ? I didn’t hear him mention it. Thank u so much
Timing cover gasket is like this: a.co/d/1tQ2dwz
You have to apply it all the way around the cover, but I show all of that in the video. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Very detailed video tutorial question how do tell if timing chain jump time?
Thanks! I worked hard on trying to make it a good video for everyone. How I checked to see if it was serious engine issues, is a leak down test. As shown here on my video: How to do a cylinder leak down test (EASY)
th-cam.com/video/41xnWPVSe14/w-d-xo.html
However if you just want to see if it jumped time, you could pull the valve cover and see if the two points line up. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Ive got one to do next week so thanks for this. Great video and much appreciated!
Thanks! Good luck. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I have a question. I have a Hyundai Elantra 1 and 8 engine 2015 Limited. When I start it in the cold, the sound comes from the engine. It is good if the oil does not burn. There may be a problem
Those engines are known for that on cold starts as it waits for the engine oil to get back to the top. I know there was something out stating to use oem filters too or it could cause damage. Honestly Hyundai tend to have engine problems. If not that then the little plastic gear in your steering is prone to failing too. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkieonly reason why hyundais have problems is because the US built models were poorly built. The korea built ones dont have the big issues the US have. Youll know if its korea built if the first letter of the VIN starts with K. if it starts with the number 5 or any other number, its a US build. Hyundais are really good reliable cars, i blame our country for purposly building an engine with poor quality or assembled parts so that the money goes around. Its the same corrupted business idea that Apple did when they were slowing iphones down per update. smh.
Hello I’m attempting this job in my garage, can you elaborate more on the three degrees? So I first line up the crank at tdc and spin it three degrees past TDC before taking off the crank pulley?
Yes so you should be able to see in the images I provided. But if I remember correctly it is when you’re going to line everything up you will have to turn the crank shaft 1-3 degrees in order to get it to line up correctly. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie thank you for your response and explanation I understand now your video was very helpfull god bless
Great video. I have a 2017 Accent that I need to change the valve stem seals. Question where can you get a service manual for Hyundai’s? I can’t find one anywhere.
Thanks! I use alldata. They have it where you can buy the professional version where you can look up any cars but pretty costly. Or you can pay just to have your vehicle’s info. Highly recommend it I believe it’s like 50 a month for the diy version. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Do you know what code was the reason to change the timing chain? P0014? I have a 2.0 that may have the same issue.
It had p0014 along with misfire on 2 of the cylinders. I suggest checking compression. Hopefully this isn’t your problem but these engines are pretty terrible. If you do have to do it or want to remove your engine it’s not too bad, heres a link to a video I made fully covering it: th-cam.com/video/mgPXhwb--aU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=wjuzHfC0HyDTuWUn
Hope this helps. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your reply. No misfire, just P0014. Runs great for 10, 30, 50+ miles at different speeds, but P0014 keeps coming back. Engine oil is clean, OCV's replaced etc...any other idea? I'll pay you to come fix it! 🙂 @@JunkyardJunkie
intake pasher was not lined with exhaust during chain installation or i mistaken?
It was I go on close to show that it was. Plus it was in line after the revolutions as well. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Nice to learn and see whats done for this repair. This one might be a little out of my league. Dang it. lol.
I’m glad I could help. Don’t be so quick to count yourself out remember if I can do it you can do it. Thanks for watching!
@JunkyardJunkie it seems like it might be difficult to do in the car?
Man I’m so stuck I did all of this but I don’t know how to get the 3° I guess I just ran it and it ran bad took it off and it’s out of time
Ok so remember that after you time it it won’t ever look like it’s in time again even when I did the two revolutions the marks no longer line up. But pretty common on these that the valve may be burnt. Check out my other video where I show you how to do a leak down test this will be a sure fire way to tell what’s going on. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Getting ready to help my son with this job. He ran it low on oil and we're thinking the timing chain jumped because of that actuator needing oil pressure. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that he didn't damage the valves.
I’m glad you’re helping him. That’s always good quality time. But I hope so too. Unfortunately these engines are extremely weak add that with low oil may want to do a leak down test to see what all is effected. I have a video on that as well if you need help. Best of luck. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching!
When you mentioned that the actuator needing oil pressure, are you talking about the two cam phasers sprockets that the chain go around on top.
It's my understanding that the oil pump supplies oil to the actuator to help keep proper tension on the chain.
So you don't have to put the sealant threadbond on the entire mating surface just where the 4 mating spots on the block and head? I'm know that what you showed but I'm just making damn sure before I put it all together. Thank you sir great vid.
So yes you want to go all the way around the cover and in the spots shown between cam carrier and head, and head and block. Trust me I know how much work it is to do but you’ll get it done! If I can do it you can do it. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie yes sir thank you so much I'm having to rebuild the entire engine in my 2016 Elantra get it threw a rod bearing right after I finished paying it off. But thanks for the reply junkyard much appreciated I got a rebuild kit from DNJ I got a couple gaskets that idk where they go or what they are if I added the pics of them you think you might be able to help me out there?
Hi I replaced the tensioner and chain with the guides and still have the 1 second rattle at start up any ideas on what it can be?
Ya that’s normal unfortunately. Like I showed in the video the tensioner is oil driven. So, it takes a second to build that pressure. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Or bad vvt sprocket @@JunkyardJunkie
The reason your tensioner is moving in and out, and the reason your chain is hopping on the cam gears is because it looks like you may have forgotten to reduce chain slack or backlash on the right side of the crank sprocket upon installation of the chain. This is also the reason for the recommended 3 degree adjustment. Remember the tensioner can only reduce chain slack on the left side of the crank sprocket for obvious reasons.
I did the 3 degree adjustment. But can you explain why you think this would be the issue? As I showed in the video the tensioner doesn’t have a ratcheting mechanism. So it is purely tensioned via oil pressure.
Do you need to take the water pump off to get the cover off
No I did but it’s not needed. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Do u know what will cause the timing chain to jump. ?
Usually a tensioner going bad but it could be other things like your timing chain guides breaking or chain slack and etc. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I understand that Hyundai manufactured a new tensioner so that the chain does not skip. Does anyone know if it's true?
Not that I’ve seen. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie ok
Just changed my chain but still have the same problems.. its still making that sound when revving like the one in your video, its the exact same sound. Do you think i shouls replace the phasers?
Did the teeth on them look wore down or anything?
There is a dial pen on the inside of the exhaust phaser that can shear off and if it's gone it will still have a problem until you replace it. Needs checked once you remove the chain. The exhaust is bank 1 phaser against the firewall. The big sprocket looking round deal the chain wraps around the two of them. The other is the intake bank 2
I replaced the the timing chain it's in time cars not starting
Did you follow my other video? How to do a cylinder leak down test (EASY)
th-cam.com/video/41xnWPVSe14/w-d-xo.html
This will make sure your motor is healthy. If you have loss greater than 15 you could have brunt valves or other issues that has to be fixed. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
How many miles on this car?
89k. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Thanks. Was curious. I have a 2017 Elantra I bought new in August of 2016. It's been a fantastic car. I have 105.000 thousand miles on it now. It has had 0 repairs, and 0 issues. Only things not original on the car is tires ,2 batteries , and wiper blades. It runs and sounds like new, uses no oil. I do take very good care of my cars. It has had 3000 mile oil changes, using Castrol GTX, 5 30, since new. 5 20 recommended, but owners manuel says 5 30, 10,30 may be used, so I chose that. Most reliable car I've ever owned. I've only bought new cars since 1980, so I've had a bunch, some expensive, some cheap like this car. None have gone 100.000 miles without needing some repairs. Even the brake pads are original, I had them inspected 4 months ago when I bought new tires, again I was told, nope there stil good, still don't need new pads yet! Amazing. And no, I'm not running stop lights, and going thru stop signs! 😊
That’s great. I do love the look and feel of these cars. The fact you had it since new and kept proper maintenance I guarantee has helped it do as well as it’s doing. But, they are known to have weak motors. Keep up the good maintenance and I hope you get a ton more miles out of it!
Great content
Thanks a lot of time went into it. Glad I was able to help. Thanks for watching!
Thanks my friend
I’m glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
12:35 Probably one of the MOST troubling aspects for timing chain lineups. I can enlighten you and others on this. 1) Make sure you set up timing correctly on installation, obviously. 2) That Hyundai tech is wrong. The timing marks WILL line up with the chain... eventually. It will take like 20-40 revolutions or whatever but it will come back to all marks lining up on chain and sprockets. It is not like the old days where 2 revolutions will line everything and every mark back up. Here's why.... In this case and many others, the timing marks are on only the chain and the sprockets. Timing marks used to be on the crank & cam sprockets and the BLOCK and HEADS, and NOT on the belt or chain. If this Hyundai (and other cars) had timing marks only on the crank and cam sprockets and the block and heads, those timing marks WILL INDEED line up every 2 revolutions, but not with the chain. The issue here is now the marks are on the CHAIN and not the block and heads. Say the chain has (these numbers are for example, only) 130 links, while the crank has say 25 and the cams have 50. You do 2 revolutions of the crank, you will have moved the chain 50 links. Now those marked chain links will be 50 links away from your crank sprocket marks and 25 links from your cam sprocket marks, BUT .... your crank and cam sprocket marks will be exactly where they were in relation to the BLOCK and HEAD when you first installed the chain. At this point, it does not matter where the marked chain links are. Go another 2 revolutions, and now the sprocket marks again line up to where they were at installation (again in relation to the block and head), and now the timing CHAIN marks have traveled 100 links away from the crank sprockets and 50 links away from the cam sprockets. Eventually, and someone can do the math, like whatever the least common denominator of 25,50 and 130 is, 20-40 revolutions or whatever will bring everything back in line as it was in installation. It is just that tech sheets and alldata and the like do not elaborate on much of anything to set minds at ease for common causes of concern. They should make side notes in those instructions in parentheses or whatever, saying something like "These marks will line up after 40 revolutions" or somehow tell you not to worry that they won't line up in 2 revolutions as most cars have historically.
Now for the chain slack jump at the end, that's bad. I don't think that should happen, even before the first startup. When the engine is off or low rpms, the cam phasers should be locked in position in themselves and function as basically one piece. At higher rpms, the pin inside them unlocks and they fill with oil and allow variation of the cam timing. The cam phasers are spring loaded iwthin, wanting to go to the locked position. Sometimes, the pin mechanism is bad and/or your tensioner is not functioning and what happens is you'll get this chain hopping thing as the cams go over their springs and get spun forward. I agree on your assessment of the tensioner.
Thanks for your input a lot of knowledge in there.
good job
Thank you! I’m glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Good video but you neglected to show the crank at TDC before installing. I've been retiming this same engine for the past year because of following the step that state to turn the crank two to rhree notches and then realigning the camshafts. Come to find out I shouldn't have touch the cams only move the crank 2-3 notches then install the chain. You were kinda doing the same thing I always do but you didn't move the crank the 2-3 notches. I just finished it again on today 3-3-24. Also you didn't need to remove the water pump only the pulley.👍👍
Thanks but for the 2-3 notches I included the resources on screen and showed the end result that it’ll line up
With the colored link. Glad you got yours straightened out. Thanks for watching!
Hello I had a noise on my elantra and my dad figured out it was the chain tensioner, he replace it and the noise is gone, but now when we turn on the car the RPM is between 1500 and 2000 on parking, and it give us the code P0016 AND P0017 can you help us? He didn't change the chain, just the tensioner, does he need to move the timing or what does he need to do? Thanks in advance
@@JunkyardJunkiehelp me please
@@emmicocoa crank timing advanced, not at tdc
@@emmicocoayour chain is out of time. This chain job is very critical and the steps are crucial.
So means the chain makes doesn't matter anymore
Huh?
That chain ⛓️ tensioner is junk, this is why all these engines keeps on jumping timing.. 😢😢😢😢
Exactly!