'66 Fastback: ironically, purchased the same PowerMaster alternator you did...but watched you before installing mine.. in case I missed something as I did mine this afternoon. Thanks Andy.
Yeah, it's easier than it looks, but I was skeptical I was going to miss something too. I watched a ton of videos before my install to make sure there wasn't something minor that one person mentioned that would be critical for the swap. In the end, it was super easy. :)
Friend, put the same one with a square external regulator, in my Maverick 302, connect F in Field and S in stator, but the alternator hums, the load makes noise, I disconnect the power cable or the Field so that it stops producing current and stops humming, do you have any idea what could be the reason or problem?
some reason my alternator is flipped the other way which gives it very little adjustment. if I try and move it around it doesnt want to fit. I am doing a rad upgrade so will take the fan off and try and see if I can get it to work better.
Nice video I need to upgrade mine after pertronix, and eltric fan I had it idling with the lights, blower/heat and fan on and it almost died 😅 I appreciate the alternator recommendation and link too 👍
Do you have wire that connects to solenoid from alternator? My old harness has one but the new v8 harness I ordered didn't, I'm new to all this, your advice is appreciated!
Your new wire harness is likely designed for cars with a one-wire alternator. You’ll need to get a new One-wire Alternator for everything to work because your new harness is not equipped with a voltage regulator (but there’s one inside the one-wire Alt). I made a video about upgrading to the one-wire, it’s incredibly easy, and your local auto parts store will likely have one in stock. 🙂
My guess is that your AC system is pulling power through your ignition switch. Maybe check the wiring and isolate it from the ignition switch? Also, the AC system might be drawing quite a bit of current, not sure if the OEM alternator is up to the task. It might need to get updated. :)
Nice video. I noticed you are using the heavy duty battery cables. But with the new alternator you’ll have more amps, 91 at max. Don’t you need a thicker cable from the alternator to the battery, solenoid.
Thanks! A thicker cable wouldn't hurt, but the relative short distance from the alternator to the battery also plays a role. I may have to upgrade as I begin to put more load on the system.
Being months later you might have already addressed this, but to make the alternator fit right as far as the harness location all you do is clock it. You remove the screws that hold the case halves together - but don't take anything apart, just rotate the halves until they are oriented the way the original was, then screw it back together.
In this video, one lead is going to the front of the passenger side head, and the other lead snakes around behind the battery and connects to the fender apron (by the starter solenoid). I have since changed the wiring in my car, but in this video, this is how it was set up. :)
Hello Andy- I have a battery charging issue. My question is regarding the starting relay. Once the car is running I believe that the post that goes to the starter should read 0 volts. This post connected to the starter should read 12 volts only when the car is being started (on crank) is this correct? Right now I see 12volts on the post to the starter even when the car is in the off position. I believe this is incorrect as well. Please help / confirm
You are correct, the large post on the "back side" of the starter solenoid should be 0 volts in all scenarios except for when the key is turned all the way to the start position of the ignition. Potential issues could be a faulty ignition switch, or somehow your "S" terminal on the starter solenoid is seeing 12 volts all the time.
@@eddievantailn2882 I don't think so, I am not seeing how a faulty voltage regulator is causing the starter solenoid to open up and let voltage get to the starter terminal on the solenoid. When the "S" terminal on the solenoid sees voltage, it's job is to activate the solenoid and let voltage go to the large terminal the starter is connected to. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I understand and agree. So if the alternator and relay are working the car should start and charge the battery, correct? Oh this a new BP 306 motor install, don't think this should matter right?
Great Mr Andy well explained,links of partes & tool ,outstanding continúe,if You Dou to any ,six cilinder ,200cid Mustang we apareciste,builds & tips,thanks,Joe & Bros,already suscribes.joe.
Thanks for the video Andy! 2 years later and just followed it to swap out the alternator in my 67'. Appreciate it!
Nice work!
Nice project. Upgrading the alternator is definitely needed when adding more electronics to these vehicles.
We agree! :)
Great video; very helpful! Andy is great at explaining all the details and making it all easy to understand.
Great to hear!
Good Job Andy. The camera view and audio was very good. Thanks
Awesome, thank you!
'66 Fastback: ironically, purchased the same PowerMaster alternator you did...but watched you before installing mine.. in case I missed something as I did mine this afternoon. Thanks Andy.
Yeah, it's easier than it looks, but I was skeptical I was going to miss something too. I watched a ton of videos before my install to make sure there wasn't something minor that one person mentioned that would be critical for the swap. In the end, it was super easy. :)
Thanks for all the helpful videos
My pleasure!
Hey andy! what spacer did you use? i cant seem to fit my spacer whatsoever and i bought the exact same alternator. Any help would be appreciated!
It's the spacer that was on my car when I bought it. It measures about 1-9/16" long.
Friend, put the same one with a square external regulator, in my Maverick 302, connect F in Field and S in stator, but the alternator hums, the load makes noise, I disconnect the power cable or the Field so that it stops producing current and stops humming, do you have any idea what could be the reason or problem?
I replied to your other comment you placed on another video, I'm not going to be able to help you. Sorry.
some reason my alternator is flipped the other way which gives it very little adjustment. if I try and move it around it doesnt want to fit.
I am doing a rad upgrade so will take the fan off and try and see if I can get it to work better.
You might need the correct Alt bracket for it to work if you flip it the other way?
Nice video I need to upgrade mine after pertronix, and eltric fan I had it idling with the lights, blower/heat and fan on and it almost died 😅 I appreciate the alternator recommendation and link too 👍
Happy to help! :)
Where does the ground wire go from the alternator to?
To a good ground.
Do you have wire that connects to solenoid from alternator? My old harness has one but the new v8 harness I ordered didn't, I'm new to all this, your advice is appreciated!
Your new wire harness is likely designed for cars with a one-wire alternator. You’ll need to get a new One-wire Alternator for everything to work because your new harness is not equipped with a voltage regulator (but there’s one inside the one-wire Alt). I made a video about upgrading to the one-wire, it’s incredibly easy, and your local auto parts store will likely have one in stock. 🙂
When I turn my AC on my ignition switch gets really hot do you think it's because I have an oem style alternator?
My guess is that your AC system is pulling power through your ignition switch. Maybe check the wiring and isolate it from the ignition switch? Also, the AC system might be drawing quite a bit of current, not sure if the OEM alternator is up to the task. It might need to get updated. :)
Nice video. I noticed you are using the heavy duty battery cables. But with the new alternator you’ll have more amps, 91 at max. Don’t you need a thicker cable from the alternator to the battery, solenoid.
Thanks!
A thicker cable wouldn't hurt, but the relative short distance from the alternator to the battery also plays a role. I may have to upgrade as I begin to put more load on the system.
Being months later you might have already addressed this, but to make the alternator fit right as far as the harness location all you do is clock it. You remove the screws that hold the case halves together - but don't take anything apart, just rotate the halves until they are oriented the way the original was, then screw it back together.
This is one of those things that's always on the "I'll get to it" list, but I never do. :)
Where is your negative wire run from, off the battery? It looks like its going to the other side of the engine?
In this video, one lead is going to the front of the passenger side head, and the other lead snakes around behind the battery and connects to the fender apron (by the starter solenoid). I have since changed the wiring in my car, but in this video, this is how it was set up. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks for the reply. Didn't look right so I was curious!
Andy how has this alternator turned out in keeping your battery charged
It was great, but I have since upgraded to a one-wire, which is much better for my setup. :)
Hello Andy- I have a battery charging issue. My question is regarding the starting relay. Once the car is running I believe that the post that goes to the starter should read 0 volts. This post connected to the starter should read 12 volts only when the car is being started (on crank) is this correct? Right now I see 12volts on the post to the starter even when the car is in the off position. I believe this is incorrect as well. Please help / confirm
You are correct, the large post on the "back side" of the starter solenoid should be 0 volts in all scenarios except for when the key is turned all the way to the start position of the ignition. Potential issues could be a faulty ignition switch, or somehow your "S" terminal on the starter solenoid is seeing 12 volts all the time.
@@AndyKruseChannel Could this be a voltage regulator issue?
@@eddievantailn2882 I don't think so, I am not seeing how a faulty voltage regulator is causing the starter solenoid to open up and let voltage get to the starter terminal on the solenoid. When the "S" terminal on the solenoid sees voltage, it's job is to activate the solenoid and let voltage go to the large terminal the starter is connected to. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel I understand and agree. So if the alternator and relay are working the car should start and charge the battery, correct? Oh this a new BP 306 motor install, don't think this should matter right?
Maybe a weird question but if the ground wire is loose it doesn’t charge the battery right ?
Loose is not the same as disconnected. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel it was disconnected:)
Great explanation. Used this video to upgrade mine as well. Keep up the videos, really enjoy learning with your videos.
Thanks, will do!
Great Mr Andy well explained,links of partes & tool ,outstanding continúe,if You Dou to any ,six cilinder ,200cid Mustang we apareciste,builds & tips,thanks,Joe & Bros,already suscribes.joe.
Thanks for feedback! :)
Lol, my radio and heater aren't hooked up either 🤣
Great minds think alike? :)
So disappointed, I thought THIS would be the electric power steering install video. Still waiting. :-)
One of these days I’m going to have to deliver. 😆