I’ve been welding 30 years, and this kid could be the best TIG welder I’ve ever seen. I think he needs to up his video making, because truly, thi is the best welding I’ve seen on you tube. Barring the educational quality of Jody.
I'm welding the same ss304 exhaust systems for about 5 years already and was suprised to see almost the same settings , this is awesome! 😄👍 The only thing I'd like to add is when I weld this short type of pie cuts or just a V-band to a short piece of tube I usually just tack weld another 20-30cm of straight pipe to the opposite side of V-band just to save my silicone plug from burning when the last weld is right next to the end of the whole piece 😉 Greetings from Russia ✌️ BTW haven't you tried weld the same joints on the positioner? Many guys use some sort of U-type piece of metall to place the tube/bend and a regular clamp to hold it together and keep the thing dead vertically.
Good evening, I could answer some questions, I am welding a 2mm stainless steel tube, I am not able to adjust the machine in pulsed mode so that the cord becomes more bluish. What is the gas regulation that you use?
My tig machine doesnt have pulse, wondering is this possible without pulse ? I know it will not look like its dabbed but look more like laywire welding. Or is there too much heat input without pulse?
I like your reasoning about processes in engineering way. Like about electromagnetism or heat conductance and what it causes in each particular case. Looks like you're not only an extremely good master and artist but also a deep thinking person who understands a deep causes of things.
Rush you are a Beast!!!!! Thank you for the time you put in shooting these and explaining. Positioning the camera so we can see not only the arc but your torch and body position helps a ton. 🔥👍🏼🔥
Yeah, it is a full penatration weld. Using the base metal as the filler when possible, along with plenty of gas coverage will mean its just as strong as the original tube.
@@ouelketken5076 it would be based on fit up and preference. If you have poor pie cuts or gaps, you could not do this method. In the sanitary piping industry, this method is used exclusively.
Jared Massic Ok thanks man ! I just tried this method 5 min ago it's 100 times easier my weld looks like kanekid haha I like better with filler more challenging !
This technique and setting will work the same, just need to up the amperage or slightly slower travel speed with same amperage. Just be sure the penetration is punching through.
@@KANEKIDWELDS Cool! I need to build some kind of automated tig rig to drive down 20ft long welds on stainless so I can sit back, drink beer and watch it work!
Hey Rush, I’m just starting out and your videos are so freaking good. I was wondering if this technique was attainable with a machine that only does 1pps? I tried using 1pps @85 amps and am getting the concave racks with the little dot in the middle. Using a size 14 cup and 35 cfh. The pulses are clean and silver, but all have the tiny dot hole in the middle. I’m dreaming of doing the exhaust on my LS swap using this technique. Love the videos man! Keep it up!
This will work at 1pps. A few things I recognize from your description that can help. With a size 14 I keep the flow around 22-24cfh & inside purge rate at 5-7cfh. The argon flowing inside the tubing insulates and cools the puddle and prevents overheating, if the flow rate is too high, it will blow the weld out or cause a shaky lightly sparky puddle (it absolutely does not hold the weld up like many are confused about) To eliminate the crater/pinhole between dimes - make sure not to advance too far between Dime overlaps. Just advance far enough that the edge of the next dime completely overlaps the center of the previous. If the weld is still concave & not raised, more tungsten push angle is needed (≈40° forward), or slightly less amps(74-78) Hope this helps🤘🏼
I am starting a new career in metal fabrication, welding and boilermaking a little later in life than most would start, so if I end up 25% of this good, I think I will be going ok, I will be watching a lot of your content for tips and advice that is a certainty.
My man, Wow even the inside looks great !!! Great purge setup. I wish my TIG welder had pulse now. It's an older (2012) Everlast Powertig 185. I've been reading your posts on how pulse mode really helps autogenous welds "pull" together and produce a convex bead profile. (vs a sunken-in concave bead with minor undercut). Hats off to you, i just subscribed too 👍🇺🇸
how long did this elbow take you to fit and weld if you don't mind me asking? I just welded my first carbon pie cut for a smoker i built for myself. I felt like I was trying to weld it too fast.
@@KANEKIDWELDS yeah I definitely didn't take the time and care on my pies... over heated and just welded the crap out of it. I need to take a breath and enjoy what I do and do it properly next time. Only way to get better!
🤘😎 what a pleasure it must be doing work like that Rush lol with all sorts of handy premium tools for stainy/titainy. Excellent job my friend, and wonderful filming!
Thank you! This is a lot of fun, mostly patience, & I think the results are a decent reward. You don’t need all the fancy stuff to do this, a y-valve, foil and a couple hose clamps can get anyone through just the same with just a little extra time.
This is the torch I use most, I just added it to my shop today. There’s more styles on the site as well www.kaneindustries.co/product-page/ck-worldwide-flexloc-pkg-230a-water-cooled-25
I use CK LaYZr for both AC and DC with my OTC 2200. LaYZr is designed specifically for precise low amp starts and repeated arc ignition for Robotic GTAW applications, where one single sharpened electrode needs to run all day, or multiple days reliably. I figured if it’s good for robots, then that’s what I want to be using!
He works for Sparks motors aka Diesel Sellerz.... They are on T.V. He definitely deserves screen time.... but I bet they are afraid they will lose him.... lol
@@KANEKIDWELDS I didn't mean that a in a disrespectful way rush.... I was just saying that you, in my book, are the top welder out there today.... It's like you are the hard drive and once you grab your miller, It's like watching a CNC machine just go!! I'm just an old country boy from east tennessee .... I dream of finishing my 71' and 84" c-10's but It's so hard to self learn how to weld when you run an HVAC company....
Great vid brother, jealous of your job. Working on getting my own shop. So I can do more of the welding I want. Thanks for the boot in the ass, to keep chugging along.
Thanks for the compliments on aesthetics! You said in your honest opinion you wouldn’t trust it, then lol’d, so I’m curious to what insight you have pushing that opinion. I wrote notes into this video around the 2:35 mark explaining the details of this process, but I’ll expand more on it here. Nothing matches the parent material alloy of stainless steel better than the parent material itself, and that’s absolutely the only thing you see shown here. Utilizing a filler/dab technique, the filler alloy closest to the parent material being welded is chosen. During the welding process, an amperage high enough to melt and fully penetrate through to consume and fuse the root is chosen. As the puddle is formed and carried along the weld, the cold wire (uncharged ambient filler) is transferred manually into the puddle. Each time the filler is introduced, the puddle/weld zone is diluted with the new alloy, cools, and drops temperature. The dab technique is completely normal, wildly used, and simply a correct technique. The technique I have showcased, is ‘imitating’ the dab technique, but... my ‘non-existing’ filler alloy is actually the EXACT SAME as the parent alloy, since that’s ALL that I’m working with. These pulse parameters are set to imitate the temperature fluctuations by cold wire transfer Tig welding, so even the HAZ is nearly identical, depending on travel speeds. (*note* ‘Low and slow’ typically yields a much much larger area of granular elongation and increased temper along the weld, in all processes, due to more radiant heat input over a longer period of time) The fitment of each weld joint is perfectly square, completely flush, zero gaps, ridiculously clean, no bevels. This fitment & cleanliness is the only way this works & it saves time, money, and operator fatigue, making this an extremely useful and reliable process.
@The Most Illusive Man thanks for dropping your input. What I’m showing here is how to pulse-autogenous by using metallurgy and electromagnetic science to achieve structural passing and highly cosmetic thin wall stainless welds. The Root penetration I’ve show has 100% penetration without any suckback, meaning the inside face of the weld is literally Convex (not concave) and the outer face of the weld is Convex as well. If you happen to watch the video, you can actually see it.
What is an acceptable level of color(thickness of oxidation) on the inside? I'm guessing same as the out side , so long as no sugaring. And that tapping the unwelded joints would reduce color to almost 0 ,but would about dubble the time/ cost for the job.
I’ve been welding 30 years, and this kid could be the best TIG welder I’ve ever seen. I think he needs to up his video making, because truly, thi is the best welding I’ve seen on you tube. Barring the educational quality of Jody.
I'm welding the same ss304 exhaust systems for about 5 years already and was suprised to see almost the same settings , this is awesome! 😄👍 The only thing I'd like to add is when I weld this short type of pie cuts or just a V-band to a short piece of tube I usually just tack weld another 20-30cm of straight pipe to the opposite side of V-band just to save my silicone plug from burning when the last weld is right next to the end of the whole piece 😉
Greetings from Russia ✌️
BTW haven't you tried weld the same joints on the positioner? Many guys use some sort of U-type piece of metall to place the tube/bend and a regular clamp to hold it together and keep the thing dead vertically.
Would this work for a high pressure tube for example exhaust manifold? Or would you need filler in that case?
Good evening, I could answer some questions, I am welding a 2mm stainless steel tube, I am not able to adjust the machine in pulsed mode so that the cord becomes more bluish. What is the gas regulation that you use?
My tig machine doesnt have pulse, wondering is this possible without pulse ? I know it will not look like its dabbed but look more like laywire welding. Or is there too much heat input without pulse?
The picture says a thousand words. Great stuff👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you!
I like your reasoning about processes in engineering way. Like about electromagnetism or heat conductance and what it causes in each particular case. Looks like you're not only an extremely good master and artist but also a deep thinking person who understands a deep causes of things.
Rush you are a Beast!!!!! Thank you for the time you put in shooting these and explaining. Positioning the camera so we can see not only the arc but your torch and body position helps a ton. 🔥👍🏼🔥
Thanks so much Chop! I try to show what I’m doing, in the same way that I learn best from others!
I would love to take some lessons! Your work never ceases to amazing me and motivates me to make every weld better than my last.
Thanks so much!
Awesome job, Rush. Thanks for your tips!
Thanks brotha! This is a lot of fun! Hope they help!
Is this strong enough for exhaust?
Yeah, it is a full penatration weld. Using the base metal as the filler when possible, along with plenty of gas coverage will mean its just as strong as the original tube.
Yes! And thanks for jumping in with the response Jared!
Jared Massic
So why some other professionnal use filler on the same job as this ? I’m confuse haha
@@ouelketken5076 it would be based on fit up and preference. If you have poor pie cuts or gaps, you could not do this method.
In the sanitary piping industry, this method is used exclusively.
Jared Massic
Ok thanks man !
I just tried this method 5 min ago it's 100 times easier my weld looks like kanekid haha
I like better with filler more challenging !
I know you hear it all the time. But mad skills, Rush! And thank you for including your setup details.
Beautiful work as always.. Would this work on 14g stainless as well?
This technique and setting will work the same, just need to up the amperage or slightly slower travel speed with same amperage. Just be sure the penetration is punching through.
@@KANEKIDWELDS Cool! I need to build some kind of automated tig rig to drive down 20ft long welds on stainless so I can sit back, drink beer and watch it work!
I like your gloves you wouldn't happen to have a link where I can get some
The Purge dont must be from below ?
Hey Rush, I’m just starting out and your videos are so freaking good. I was wondering if this technique was attainable with a machine that only does 1pps? I tried using 1pps @85 amps and am getting the concave racks with the little dot in the middle. Using a size 14 cup and 35 cfh. The pulses are clean and silver, but all have the tiny dot hole in the middle. I’m dreaming of doing the exhaust on my LS swap using this technique. Love the videos man! Keep it up!
This will work at 1pps.
A few things I recognize from your description that can help. With a size 14 I keep the flow around 22-24cfh & inside purge rate at 5-7cfh. The argon flowing inside the tubing insulates and cools the puddle and prevents overheating, if the flow rate is too high, it will blow the weld out or cause a shaky lightly sparky puddle (it absolutely does not hold the weld up like many are confused about)
To eliminate the crater/pinhole between dimes - make sure not to advance too far between Dime overlaps. Just advance far enough that the edge of the next dime completely overlaps the center of the previous.
If the weld is still concave & not raised, more tungsten push angle is needed (≈40° forward), or slightly less amps(74-78)
Hope this helps🤘🏼
@@KANEKIDWELDS dude! Thank you so much for the reply! I’ll give this a go tonight and practice it! You’re the goat!
well done, were you full pedal at 85 amps on the pipe to pipe. also how many amps did you use for the vband flange?
ABDUL FAKHOURI eighty-five peak floored on everything here
I am starting a new career in metal fabrication, welding and boilermaking a little later in life than most would start, so if I end up 25% of this good, I think I will be going ok, I will be watching a lot of your content for tips and advice that is a certainty.
Art work my friend
Are these pre cut sections beveled or nah?
Sick work as per 💸
My man, Wow even the inside looks great !!! Great purge setup. I wish my TIG welder had pulse now. It's an older (2012) Everlast Powertig 185. I've been reading your posts on how pulse mode really helps autogenous welds "pull" together and produce a convex bead profile. (vs a sunken-in concave bead with minor undercut). Hats off to you, i just subscribed too 👍🇺🇸
It always amazes me how close you get your electrode to the work without dipping. Very skilled and precision.!!!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for sharing your Knowledge, you inspire me to became a better Welders and train every day
how long did this elbow take you to fit and weld if you don't mind me asking? I just welded my first carbon pie cut for a smoker i built for myself. I felt like I was trying to weld it too fast.
xXxAtkinsxXx this was about 4 hrs
@@KANEKIDWELDS yeah I definitely didn't take the time and care on my pies... over heated and just welded the crap out of it. I need to take a breath and enjoy what I do and do it properly next time. Only way to get better!
Works of art really! Mad skillz!
🤘😎 what a pleasure it must be doing work like that Rush lol with all sorts of handy premium tools for stainy/titainy. Excellent job my friend, and wonderful filming!
Thank you! This is a lot of fun, mostly patience, & I think the results are a decent reward. You don’t need all the fancy stuff to do this, a y-valve, foil and a couple hose clamps can get anyone through just the same with just a little extra time.
What that brand name of the tig torch what model number looks like it got ultimate flexibility with that pivot head
This is the torch I use most, I just added it to my shop today. There’s more styles on the site as well
www.kaneindustries.co/product-page/ck-worldwide-flexloc-pkg-230a-water-cooled-25
just plain awesome.
What color tungsten you use on that ?
I use CK LaYZr for both AC and DC with my OTC 2200. LaYZr is designed specifically for precise low amp starts and repeated arc ignition for Robotic GTAW applications, where one single sharpened electrode needs to run all day, or multiple days reliably. I figured if it’s good for robots, then that’s what I want to be using!
KANEKID WELDS Thanks for sharing your knowledge that tells allot about you and that’s why you are my reference in tig welding , thank you
Just want to ad that its LAYZR CK CHARTREUSE
Super nice! goals for sure. Which welder are you using?
Nice clip....you are a very good welder....but you work for you or for a company ??
He works for Sparks motors aka Diesel Sellerz.... They are on T.V.
He definitely deserves screen time.... but I bet they are afraid they will lose him.... lol
@@Chad_N_Stacey_Hopson for sure...lol
@@Chad_N_Stacey_Hopson thanks
Chad Stacey Hopson that doesn’t make any sense to me, keeping me off screen, and hiding my work is the number 1 reason I look for other opportunities.
@@KANEKIDWELDS I didn't mean that a in a disrespectful way rush.... I was just saying that you, in my book, are the top welder out there today.... It's like you are the hard drive and once you grab your miller, It's like watching a CNC machine just go!! I'm just an old country boy from east tennessee .... I dream of finishing my 71' and 84" c-10's but It's so hard to self learn how to weld when you run an HVAC company....
What is the grey welder ?
This is the OTC DAIHEN DTX2200 AC/DC. It’s the best DC tig machine I’ve used in my career so far & it’s tiny!
KANEKID WELDS thank you bro I was just curious since I’d never seen one like it you’re a big inspiration. I do Kane fingers on AL over 30% of he time
@@KANEKIDWELDS I thought it was an HTP at first.
Very helpful I'm working on a project for my welding teacher it's a stainless chimney cover for his house
Great video Rush! I always enjoy your content!
Thanks!
BEEEE-utiful! Why can't I get reliable fusion tacks?
very cool! I love this!
Thanks!
What where you welder setting to make tacks with out blowing holes on you butt joint
0:29
Nice work!
👊🏼
Wow. Just , wow.
What camera are you using for recording
This was all with iPhone
Thanks
THE ARTEEST!
Thank you, Art! I have a great brush👊🏼
Hi is the purple rain Prince of welding ...
Glenn van den Berg 😄 thanks for that one👊🏼 our late shop manager Mike always called me Prince Kane.
AAAaaaaa........ so that’s what happens when you really give a shit...... pride in workmanship at it’s finest
Great work wish you could teach me
wow!
You R fckin good you know what you're doin man
Cara! Eu quero aprender a fazer isso
Good job. I think I'm going to start posting videos.
Great vid brother, jealous of your job. Working on getting my own shop. So I can do more of the welding I want. Thanks for the boot in the ass, to keep chugging along.
Thanks brotha👊🏼
Fusion welds only, interesting.
looks fantastic, imho i wouldnt trust just a fused weld let alone that its pulsed at the same time lol but result looks great
Thanks. Great elaboration with that backhand 👊🏼
Seriously though, will you provide a follow up? I’d like to be educated on your insight.
lol didnt mean nothin bad, just sayin that result is great with the fact that its just fused no filler no gap
Thanks for the compliments on aesthetics!
You said in your honest opinion you wouldn’t trust it, then lol’d, so I’m curious to what insight you have pushing that opinion.
I wrote notes into this video around the 2:35 mark explaining the details of this process, but I’ll expand more on it here.
Nothing matches the parent material alloy of stainless steel better than the parent material itself, and that’s absolutely the only thing you see shown here.
Utilizing a filler/dab technique, the filler alloy closest to the parent material being welded is chosen. During the welding process, an amperage high enough to melt and fully penetrate through to consume and fuse the root is chosen. As the puddle is formed and carried along the weld, the cold wire (uncharged ambient filler) is transferred manually into the puddle. Each time the filler is introduced, the puddle/weld zone is diluted with the new alloy, cools, and drops temperature. The dab technique is completely normal, wildly used, and simply a correct technique.
The technique I have showcased, is ‘imitating’ the dab technique, but... my ‘non-existing’ filler alloy is actually the EXACT SAME as the parent alloy, since that’s ALL that I’m working with. These pulse parameters are set to imitate the temperature fluctuations by cold wire transfer Tig welding, so even the HAZ is nearly identical, depending on travel speeds. (*note* ‘Low and slow’ typically yields a much much larger area of granular elongation and increased temper along the weld, in all processes, due to more radiant heat input over a longer period of time) The fitment of each weld joint is perfectly square, completely flush, zero gaps, ridiculously clean, no bevels. This fitment & cleanliness is the only way this works & it saves time, money, and operator fatigue, making this an extremely useful and reliable process.
@The Most Illusive Man thanks for dropping your input. What I’m showing here is how to pulse-autogenous by using metallurgy and electromagnetic science to achieve structural passing and highly cosmetic thin wall stainless welds. The Root penetration I’ve show has 100% penetration without any suckback, meaning the inside face of the weld is literally Convex (not concave) and the outer face of the weld is Convex as well. If you happen to watch the video, you can actually see it.
*proceeds to apply stainless pickling gel to remove oxidation*
Класс!!!!👍👍👍👍🙏
Oh yah?... I can make fat noises with my hands...can u? Lol ,yr a beast . Amazing skill
Hahahaaaaa! 👊🏼 thanks
@@KANEKIDWELDS I can make fart noises with my armpit!
Guys...c’mon.... butt cheeks are the easiest tool used, and readily available to replicate a fart noise....
What is an acceptable level of color(thickness of oxidation) on the inside? I'm guessing same as the out side , so long as no sugaring. And that tapping the unwelded joints would reduce color to almost 0 ,but would about dubble the time/ cost for the job.
David Drescher I don’t know which direction you’re going with that question/statement.
I fell asleep. what happened?!?!
Who’s paying for all that argon?
Be careful with the penetration! 🧐