Thanks for making these videos.. i'm getting ready to rebuild a 62 727 that hasn't moved since 1978.. hoping it's still decent inside.. these videos will help a ton :)
👍 so far a lot less intimidating since watching the teardown. I'LL see what I do after video 2. Actually have two more automatics that need be built. But the torqueflite in the one ton seem to be a good beginning. I
@@YoshimoshiGarage thank you for sharing your knowledge in very easy to understand videos. I have a few more to watch, but with everyone I gain more confidence.
A question for you specialists. Can the adjustment screw for the kickdown band be completely removed without the component in the transmission at 10:27min for the voltage of the band in the transmission falls down? I ask because with me this screw is leaking and I want to take this out completely and then seal with sealing tape.
I wouldn't call myself a specialist, but I'm pretty sure the answer is "no." You need that screw to apply the proper starting pressure for the band. Without it, the band would just be flopping around in there and cause all sorts of havoc. That screw is pretty high up - well above the fluid level in the pan, so unless the threads in the case are damaged (you could helicoil it) or the vent is blocked, you shouldn't be getting fluid coming out of there.
What model 4x4 truck was that 727 going into? I have a 4x4 1975 dodge power wagon. My 727 output shaft is to long. Won’t mount to a np203 t-case. Any idea what length the output shaft needs to be? My output shaft is to long. Thanks.
don't take the sprang race out its pressed in and notched to prevent it from moving / pack with a little Assembly grease and reinstall springs and rollers
Do you know if it's possible to change the tail shaft from a short to a long but keep the rest of the guts the same. in other words just the tail shaft and tail shaft housing. And do u have a re-assembly video? thanks
Yes, they are all the same otherwise. You have to disassemble the whole thing to take out the clips holding it together, but if you have a different shaft and housing, it's a straightforward swap. These might help: th-cam.com/video/rAV_Xy8mB3Y/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/es5BAoA0MUo/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/KW9IPHeUzCo/w-d-xo.html
@@YoshimoshiGarage That's great to know - Thank you very much. Yeah, I got a bunch of 727's for $225. 2 long tails for small blocks, and a 6 cyl long tail. I'll probably never use the 6 cyl trans, so I wanted to use it's long tail shaft on another big block 727 snub tail shaft from a motor home. I found your other videos of assembly as well. I feel very confident in not only changing out the tail shaft but putting a rebuild kit myself. Thank you very much - great tutorials - sorry u had to change the tail shaft after all of that work. How did it work though? Any problems I should know before I start? thanks bro.
Probably, but since I had no idea what the intervals looked like beforehand, with my luck it would have gotten me a couple miles from the house and then stranded me.
So i was on a forum earlier and asked around for advice on rebuild kits, the answers were AVOID the race rebuild kits. I honestly don't see why people say to avoid them, the kit includes 1 extra clutch disc to increase from stock (4)to (5) and has better clutch materials better than stock, and kolene steels. Any idea why the "race" rebuild kits are not being recommended? It seems more of a better bang for your buck. Thanks.
Ive pulled mine apart and am trying to put it together, its the endplay and the difficultly of reassembly and now Ive noticed a very sloppy spring clip that seems wrong, its just a big gamble, or a huge bill, there should obviously be a way to find a competent person to come and help, but capitalism works very hard to make sure that we never help each other, someone please make an app where i can have a local mechanic come by and help out for an hour or two, problems solved
Okay guys…. My OCD is going nuts… Can we please pressure wash the greasy pig BEFORE we start the disassembly process??? Just saying Less crap everywhere and filth in the parts washer
@@YoshimoshiGarage You're right...lol. Amazing how much is written about this...and sometimes contradictory. I've usually pronounced it in normal english tradition...but nice to know how it should be pronounced.
Best video showing tear apart of 727. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for making these videos.. i'm getting ready to rebuild a 62 727 that hasn't moved since 1978.. hoping it's still decent inside.. these videos will help a ton :)
Got 2 4x4 of these to hopefully build a really good one. You're videos will be very helpful to tackle this job thank you!
Man, the fluid looked good, and everything.
YES! I will be doing this a few months from now with upgrades. 👍💪
I'll be putting a TransGo kit into this one.
👍 so far a lot less intimidating since watching the teardown. I'LL see what I do after video 2.
Actually have two more automatics that need be built. But the torqueflite in the one ton seem to be a good beginning.
I
Don't let it intimidate you. These old torqueflights aren't as complex as a lot of people think.
@@YoshimoshiGarage thank you for sharing your knowledge in very easy to understand videos. I have a few more to watch, but with everyone I gain more confidence.
A question for you specialists. Can the adjustment screw for the kickdown band be completely removed without the component in the transmission at 10:27min for the voltage of the band in the transmission falls down? I ask because with me this screw is leaking and I want to take this out completely and then seal with sealing tape.
I wouldn't call myself a specialist, but I'm pretty sure the answer is "no." You need that screw to apply the proper starting pressure for the band. Without it, the band would just be flopping around in there and cause all sorts of havoc. That screw is pretty high up - well above the fluid level in the pan, so unless the threads in the case are damaged (you could helicoil it) or the vent is blocked, you shouldn't be getting fluid coming out of there.
Awesome, thanks
I've never heard of a ceiling washer before. Mine are mostly popcorn, and can't be washed.
What rebuild kit did you use? Have you, by chance, got a part number? Did it come with the large tail housing bearing and bushings as well?
I purchased individual parts rather than a kit. I ordered everything from Cobra Transmission
What model 4x4 truck was that 727 going into? I have a 4x4 1975 dodge power wagon. My 727 output shaft is to long. Won’t mount to a np203 t-case. Any idea what length the output shaft needs to be? My output shaft is to long. Thanks.
It was in a 74 which has a divorced transfer case and a short tailshaft
Thank u
Can you take the valve body off with the transmission still in the vehicle?
Yes
don't take the sprang race out its pressed in and notched to prevent it from moving / pack with a little Assembly grease and reinstall springs and rollers
Do you know if it's possible to change the tail shaft from a short to a long but keep the rest of the guts the same. in other words just the tail shaft and tail shaft housing. And do u have a re-assembly video? thanks
Yes, they are all the same otherwise. You have to disassemble the whole thing to take out the clips holding it together, but if you have a different shaft and housing, it's a straightforward swap. These might help:
th-cam.com/video/rAV_Xy8mB3Y/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/es5BAoA0MUo/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/KW9IPHeUzCo/w-d-xo.html
@@YoshimoshiGarage That's great to know - Thank you very much. Yeah, I got a bunch of 727's for $225. 2 long tails for small blocks, and a 6 cyl long tail. I'll probably never use the 6 cyl trans, so I wanted to use it's long tail shaft on another big block 727 snub tail shaft from a motor home. I found your other videos of assembly as well. I feel very confident in not only changing out the tail shaft but putting a rebuild kit myself. Thank you very much - great tutorials - sorry u had to change the tail shaft after all of that work. How did it work though? Any problems I should know before I start? thanks bro.
Went together and worked fine
@@YoshimoshiGarage thanks bro
how much different is the 904?
Pretty much the same thing, just smaller parts
I think you could have put some fluid in it and let her rip!!
That thing looked great inside!
Probably, but since I had no idea what the intervals looked like beforehand, with my luck it would have gotten me a couple miles from the house and then stranded me.
I'll probably put in parts in zip lock bags so I won't mix stuff up. Like your video.
How do you drain the transmission fluid out in the beginning since there is no drain plug?
You just have to unscrew all of the pan bolts but 2 and crack it open. It's usually a very messy process.
@@YoshimoshiGarage that's what I was afraid of. Oh well didn't hurt to ask. I will have a drain plug when the pan goes back. DAVE.
So I have one with just a bad reverse. Anyone know if I can just replace the reverse actuator
Depends on what's bad. If it's a band, which is probably more likely, then replacing the actuator won't help.
Where did you score such a nice transmission?
mine looks just as good, I just need it assembled properly
So i was on a forum earlier and asked around for advice on rebuild kits, the answers were AVOID the race rebuild kits.
I honestly don't see why people say to avoid them, the kit includes 1 extra clutch disc to increase from stock (4)to (5) and has better clutch materials better than stock, and kolene steels.
Any idea why the "race" rebuild kits are not being recommended? It seems more of a better bang for your buck.
Thanks.
Not sure. On old+school race transmission builder recommended I go with more clutches so that's what I did
@@YoshimoshiGarageAppreciate the response, will keep scouring the "street" transmission parts tab.
very odd mines a 2wd truck long bed and has the short shaft.
Ive pulled mine apart and am trying to put it together, its the endplay and the difficultly of reassembly and now Ive noticed a very sloppy spring clip that seems wrong, its just a big gamble, or a huge bill, there should obviously be a way to find a competent person to come and help, but capitalism works very hard to make sure that we never help each other, someone please make an app where i can have a local mechanic come by and help out for an hour or two, problems solved
Okay guys….
My OCD is going nuts…
Can we please pressure wash the greasy pig BEFORE we start the disassembly process???
Just saying
Less crap everywhere and filth in the parts washer
Knipex is pronounced...nip-ex. Proper german pronunciation. In english, it could be pronounced nipe-ex.
evidently it's pronounced "k-nee-pex", according to Knipex themselves.
blog.knipex.com/en/en/blog/inside-knipex-how-to-pronounce-knipex
@@YoshimoshiGarage You're right...lol. Amazing how much is written about this...and sometimes contradictory. I've usually pronounced it in normal english tradition...but nice to know how it should be pronounced.