Unfortunately these aren't shock absorbers, but just springs. They aren't more responsive, they just lack a damping element. A damper would be, for example, a piston trying to push air (or oil) through a small hole. That causes energy loss, which is in essense, what damping is.
Super cool stuff! About the printed "shocks" they are not really shock-absorbers, they are just springs since there is no oil to absorb the shock. The handling of the car will be bouncy with springs only, I'd just use some quality RC car shocks. But again, super cool stuff and a really cool project. Big 👍 from me.
@@idfu8403 I second that. Air will function as dampening. It would also be possible to put a piece of foam in there. Which could be especially helpful when bottoming out.
Nice work. I wonder if you could design a recess for o-rings and make the assembly oil-filled, thereby reducing the rebound and making it a true damper? Also - using TPU instead of PETG for the coil spring itself?
TPU might be too weak as a spring. TPU mimics squishy materials like rubber or foam. Springs need stiff materials like steel. For the suspension, the spring needs to strong enough to push the piston back into place. PETG or Nylon should be good. Buying steel springs would be better
If you offset the faces of your threads .05mm each, and do a slight chamfer on the corners, then you won't have to mess with the tap and die. My mk3s prints absolutely beautiful threads using this method. They're slightly stiff at first, but after a few cycles they get buttery smooth. This method has worked on every pitch I've tried so far, always using the auto generated threads in Fusion.
@@thehardwareguy Just be sure and offset all three faces on both parts. If you're only printing one thread to go in an existing thread, you might have to increase the offset, depending on which thread class it is.
Love everything about this project, A scaled down electric car is something I've always wanted to do but lack the knowledge. Interesting to see, and 3D printed to top it off!
even with additional weight they'd be too stiff! when the whole thing is built I'll re-print 4 new springs. The additional weight should mean I need to increase coil diameter (which is good because they'll be stronger)
hi! This looks quite great, but, seeing the rest of your videos, I'm assuming it didn't really work out well enough, as you switched back to metal shocks, is that so? What was the ultimate issue with this, they broke a lot or smth?
i mean there is a reason why you have oil filled shocks in anything that is bigger than 1:28 .. skip the 3d printing on these, it doesn t make much sense
I will almost certainly revert to proper shocks if I have to! I just enjoy the design challenge, and they may be useful to others when I release the files!
Do you have any plans to put any grease or something inside to reduce the oscillation? It wouldn't be too difficult with your design, and it is something you can tune when the rest of car is built.
Oookay, cool video. I have a printer and already have rc body printed and a trx4, but fully empty.... I hope there will be more stuff, so i need to buy electronics only, that would be so awesome:)
it's good to have bounce to know a spring works. Could i offer a couple tips for attempting this feat? 1. a spring that's bouncy when you apply force on top and is soft (bouncy) does not help you maintain control of a vehicle. you test a spring by seeing if it's bouncy from the top load. Look at the bottom load. what compresses it from the bottom? Bumps, un even terrain, etc.. so if the spring is bouncy from the top, and with every action theres an equal and opposite reaction, it's the springs going from uncompressed, compressed and reacting towards the weight on top. -REACTING TO THE LOAD FROM THE TOP TRANSFERS THE OPPOSITE REACTION WHICH IS LOAD TOWARDS THE TOP 2. so looking at the load applied to compress from the bottom of the springs.. if you're going fast, and not slowly crawling over big terrain, then why do you want bounce in suspension? if you bounce on the top with whatever pressure you gave, and it kept bouncing, think about how the driver in it feels. MORE IMPORTANTLY, if you focus on the load going bottom to top (like what compresses a suspension spring more), you don't want it to bounce after a bump and transfer it to the upper part. 3. ok so your spring for your suspension bounces... you like that. if we made the springs on your daily vehicle bounce more so that when you sit down and applied load to the top of the springs, and you keep bouncing after you sit? that's what you're looking for? or wait since the load from the top is static and stays relatively the same on that ratio size you've mocked up, would you like it to apply the same effect to the ground to go over bumps better? soft and bouncy springs don't return to their tailored compression and static position as quickly as a stiffer spring does. if your springs bounce a bunch then your tires don't return to the ground with force as quickly. the soft ones do return almost in the same time. but if your soft ones are soft and take longer to return to their original spring tension then the force is applied long after the stiffer springs that force the tire down quicker and harder. It's engineering at it's finest to do what doesn't seem possible. a spring is not stretchy, bendy, squishy, or bouncy. it is a rigid shape. what makes it bouncy is the distance between each coil in the spring, how close the coils are in the top, the bottom, and the middle. if they're are a bunch of coils equally spaced, it'll bounce more than the spring with les coils, same length, but the bottom has coils closer, the top has coils closer, and the middle is wider apart. those coils close together absorb a lot of impact and the left overs go to the middle. the springs with equal spacing is just like the newtons cradle. equal spacing transfers the same energy back and forth until it losing enough energy between transferring between a solid object. so with spacing bigger than the middle, the smaller and more coils on each end loose energy pushing the next coil. then the middle looses completely because it doesnt have the energy to compress the middle enough to transfer through it. resulting in a soft spring, it takes longer for the energy to travel back and forth those distances, and energy is lost on each end. nowthe 3d printed ones have less coils, tops and bottoms touch so it transfers better, and it's bouncier. well newtons cradle transfers almost 100 percent of the energy when the balls touch, the less balls there are the more similar the energy transferring is. the balls are like coils. the less there are, the quicker and harder it transfers. the more there are the slower it transfers to the other side and back. the loss of energy between more coils causes it to delay returning to it's static shape. in my eyes, you're designing a spring for bouncing load on top, vs returning quickly to the ground below to maintain traction. -if you want a bouncy frame or upper suspension then make a spring with close coils at the bottom touching, then they fade further apart 1/2 way up, the other 1/2 continues like the last half ended but at the top is coils that don't touch and are spaced close together but are flexible when they bend and make a boing sorta effect when you flex them and let go. that'll let you bounce on top, be stiff below, and have control in the middle. not recommended but it's what you seem to be testing for instead of road return or traction maintaining..
Hello could you tell me the % infill? I'm printing one in PLA but it cracks easily, I printed it with the spring flipped horizontally (layer 0.1mm) and with 60% infill but it fails when compressed with my fingers, any suggestion?
@@thehardwareguy I bought shocks similar to the ones you have but I was wondering if petg dogbone cups would be strong enough for one 1000kv motor with a one to four gear ratio. Also, I was wondering if 3d printed differential gears would be viable. they are 90-degree bevel gears and about 25mm wide.
@@thehardwareguy I think that the only problem is your shock does not have any shock fluid or valves for that fluid to travel through (with accompanying seals). So it only limits the range of motion instead of absorbing the shock. Getting a good seal on small and complex printed parts like this would probably be very difficult though
Yeah, came here for this. being "responsive" is not really a thing in shock absorbers. They have the force of the spring and the dampening of the fluid. In this case there is very little dampening - so the spring compresses a bit further but also heavily swings around.
Unfortunately these aren't shock absorbers, but just springs. They aren't more responsive, they just lack a damping element. A damper would be, for example, a piston trying to push air (or oil) through a small hole. That causes energy loss, which is in essense, what damping is.
You need to make the rebound be like 80% less. The "reall" shocks where stiffer but didn't really have any rebound. And rebound is a traction killer
he needs oil in those shocks like the 'real' ones to actually add the absorber function to the shock abosrbers.
great job.
Awesome job bruh worth the wait ❤️🤘🏻😍
Super cool stuff! About the printed "shocks" they are not really shock-absorbers, they are just springs since there is no oil to absorb the shock. The handling of the car will be bouncy with springs only, I'd just use some quality RC car shocks. But again, super cool stuff and a really cool project. Big 👍 from me.
I feel like the air in the piston would work as a damping fluid. it won’t be as effective as oil but it’ll still do some damping
@@idfu8403 I second that. Air will function as dampening. It would also be possible to put a piece of foam in there. Which could be especially helpful when bottoming out.
@@idfu8403 it wouldn't work well, because unlike fluid, it can be compressed, so most of volume would act as another undamped spring.
Nice work. I wonder if you could design a recess for o-rings and make the assembly oil-filled, thereby reducing the rebound and making it a true damper? Also - using TPU instead of PETG for the coil spring itself?
TPU might be too weak as a spring. TPU mimics squishy materials like rubber or foam. Springs need stiff materials like steel. For the suspension, the spring needs to strong enough to push the piston back into place. PETG or Nylon should be good. Buying steel springs would be better
If you offset the faces of your threads .05mm each, and do a slight chamfer on the corners, then you won't have to mess with the tap and die. My mk3s prints absolutely beautiful threads using this method. They're slightly stiff at first, but after a few cycles they get buttery smooth. This method has worked on every pitch I've tried so far, always using the auto generated threads in Fusion.
I’ll definitely give that a go, thanks for the tip Jack, much appreciated!
@@thehardwareguy Just be sure and offset all three faces on both parts. If you're only printing one thread to go in an existing thread, you might have to increase the offset, depending on which thread class it is.
Excellent I can’t wait for your next video.....
Love everything about this project, A scaled down electric car is something I've always wanted to do but lack the knowledge. Interesting to see, and 3D printed to top it off!
Need to have alot less rebound on shocks.. kinda hard to do though if you're not using any oil to help dampen the shocks.
something like PCTPE might be ideal for this if your PETG fails. Little harder to print but very strong.
Man you have come a long way since you started, your fusion 360 skills are amazing!
Nice!! But you’ll also have the rest of the weight of the car when it is built, which should help soften the response from the hard shocks...?
even with additional weight they'd be too stiff! when the whole thing is built I'll re-print 4 new springs. The additional weight should mean I need to increase coil diameter (which is good because they'll be stronger)
Great walk-through
Thanks for sharing 👍😁
a question, will it work on smaller scales?
if I use PLA, can I change the setting of printer infill and such or go with same setting in the video
hi! This looks quite great, but, seeing the rest of your videos, I'm assuming it didn't really work out well enough, as you switched back to metal shocks, is that so? What was the ultimate issue with this, they broke a lot or smth?
and did you ever attempt a version with actual suspension-oil in it?
The car was too heavy. If you had a lighter RC car I think they'd work fairly well. Definitley wouldn't hit any jumps with them though
Can u make a 3D suspension from a 3D pen instead of a 3D printer
i mean there is a reason why you have oil filled shocks in anything that is bigger than 1:28 .. skip the 3d printing on these, it doesn t make much sense
I will almost certainly revert to proper shocks if I have to! I just enjoy the design challenge, and they may be useful to others when I release the files!
@@thehardwareguy yeah i thought so .. its good to try stuff out ;)
Will you look at teying this in pla? When i can get around to it id want to
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Do you have any plans to put any grease or something inside to reduce the oscillation? It wouldn't be too difficult with your design, and it is something you can tune when the rest of car is built.
Oookay, cool video. I have a printer and already have rc body printed and a trx4, but fully empty.... I hope there will be more stuff, so i need to buy electronics only, that would be so awesome:)
You could add my 3d printed shock springs and it would help dampen the bounciness of these
it's good to have bounce to know a spring works. Could i offer a couple tips for attempting this feat?
1. a spring that's bouncy when you apply force on top and is soft (bouncy) does not help you maintain control of a vehicle. you test a spring by seeing if it's bouncy from the top load. Look at the bottom load. what compresses it from the bottom? Bumps, un even terrain, etc.. so if the spring is bouncy from the top, and with every action theres an equal and opposite reaction, it's the springs going from uncompressed, compressed and reacting towards the weight on top.
-REACTING TO THE LOAD FROM THE TOP TRANSFERS THE OPPOSITE REACTION WHICH IS LOAD TOWARDS THE TOP
2. so looking at the load applied to compress from the bottom of the springs.. if you're going fast, and not slowly crawling over big terrain, then why do you want bounce in suspension? if you bounce on the top with whatever pressure you gave, and it kept bouncing, think about how the driver in it feels. MORE IMPORTANTLY, if you focus on the load going bottom to top (like what compresses a suspension spring more), you don't want it to bounce after a bump and transfer it to the upper part.
3. ok so your spring for your suspension bounces... you like that. if we made the springs on your daily vehicle bounce more so that when you sit down and applied load to the top of the springs, and you keep bouncing after you sit? that's what you're looking for? or wait since the load from the top is static and stays relatively the same on that ratio size you've mocked up, would you like it to apply the same effect to the ground to go over bumps better? soft and bouncy springs don't return to their tailored compression and static position as quickly as a stiffer spring does. if your springs bounce a bunch then your tires don't return to the ground with force as quickly. the soft ones do return almost in the same time. but if your soft ones are soft and take longer to return to their original spring tension then the force is applied long after the stiffer springs that force the tire down quicker and harder.
It's engineering at it's finest to do what doesn't seem possible. a spring is not stretchy, bendy, squishy, or bouncy. it is a rigid shape. what makes it bouncy is the distance between each coil in the spring, how close the coils are in the top, the bottom, and the middle. if they're are a bunch of coils equally spaced, it'll bounce more than the spring with les coils, same length, but the bottom has coils closer, the top has coils closer, and the middle is wider apart. those coils close together absorb a lot of impact and the left overs go to the middle. the springs with equal spacing is just like the newtons cradle. equal spacing transfers the same energy back and forth until it losing enough energy between transferring between a solid object. so with spacing bigger than the middle, the smaller and more coils on each end loose energy pushing the next coil. then the middle looses completely because it doesnt have the energy to compress the middle enough to transfer through it. resulting in a soft spring, it takes longer for the energy to travel back and forth those distances, and energy is lost on each end. nowthe 3d printed ones have less coils, tops and bottoms touch so it transfers better, and it's bouncier. well newtons cradle transfers almost 100 percent of the energy when the balls touch, the less balls there are the more similar the energy transferring is. the balls are like coils. the less there are, the quicker and harder it transfers. the more there are the slower it transfers to the other side and back. the loss of energy between more coils causes it to delay returning to it's static shape.
in my eyes, you're designing a spring for bouncing load on top, vs returning quickly to the ground below to maintain traction.
-if you want a bouncy frame or upper suspension then make a spring with close coils at the bottom touching, then they fade further apart 1/2 way up, the other 1/2 continues like the last half ended but at the top is coils that don't touch and are spaced close together but are flexible when they bend and make a boing sorta effect when you flex them and let go. that'll let you bounce on top, be stiff below, and have control in the middle. not recommended but it's what you seem to be testing for instead of road return or traction maintaining..
So I guess there's no way to print the spring in a more continuous motion. Maybe print some sort of scaffolding structure first?
you could potentially try it with supports but it'd be tricky. SLA printers might be great for the job, however, I have no experience with those.
Hello could you tell me the % infill? I'm printing one in PLA but it cracks easily, I printed it with the spring flipped horizontally (layer 0.1mm) and with 60% infill but it fails when compressed with my fingers, any suggestion?
Companies have such equipment.
🔥👌👍
Came from r/3Dprinting. Great experiment and proof of concept. Keep it coming.
From the video they absorb no shock at all they are simply springy.
Hmm. The car became wayy too bouncy. Try adding shock oil of different weights.
could you put these on Thingiverse? I really want these for my car that I am designing, which is my first big 3d printing project. (i am 13) plz help
I am 14, and im making a 3d printed rc crawler; hope it works...
If he does do that would be awesome.
123d design wont let me do this stuff.
my files are available on my website for members!
@@thehardwareguy I bought shocks similar to the ones you have but I was wondering if petg dogbone cups would be strong enough for one 1000kv motor with a one to four gear ratio. Also, I was wondering if 3d printed differential gears would be viable. they are 90-degree bevel gears and about 25mm wide.
Thats not a suspension, that is just a spring, no damping..
It is still a suspension (have you looked a t the crap that is driving around US streets?) just not shock-absorbers.
i dont think responsive is the right word. these have almost zero dampening. suspension is not supposed to "bounce" or "jiggle" per se.
Well it is a 3D printed piece of plastic... this was merely for research purposes! I'd be happy to take a look at your solution if you have one
@@thehardwareguy I think that the only problem is your shock does not have any shock fluid or valves for that fluid to travel through (with accompanying seals). So it only limits the range of motion instead of absorbing the shock. Getting a good seal on small and complex printed parts like this would probably be very difficult though
Yeah, came here for this.
being "responsive" is not really a thing in shock absorbers. They have the force of the spring and the dampening of the fluid. In this case there is very little dampening - so the spring compresses a bit further but also heavily swings around.
I cant find the file for this through your link.
nice, but not going to work for long time.
Don't print the spring. Bend the filament.
I guess it'd work if you found a way to cure the plastic consistently.
@@thehardwareguy there was a post on Hackaday about a week ago I think about this very method ;-)