You literally touched on all the different technical features that I find here in Munich! I've struggled will all of them, so this video helps a lot! PS: wet roots are the worst thing in the world :(
On a steep descent only using your rear brake will leave you going down out of control. Or you will go to fast for your own good or trying to slow down lock up the rear wheel. In both situation you are no longer in control. Always use front break when going down steep descents but as you said modulate, and keep both wheels turning !
3 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Yeah, sometimes it seems Chris is great only when jumping, on anything else we old farts have been doing 20+ years ago in MTB world, ah, I'm always smiling ;-)
Ooof. Sounds similar to my offing. Only one brake myself. Clavicle. Hurts like nothing else. Seeing the guidance regarding the dropper of the seat post is where I went wrong I think. Having said that I need a dropper post as it's something I currently don't have. Hope your fit and well soon.
Some hills you will get up in trail, but not in turbo. I find if theres loads of tight tech turns. The middle mode is better. Plus you coming across as a turbo johny 😂
The only reason to use turbo is when I simply can't pedal enough from fatigue when climbing, usually close to the end of the climb. A step lower gives me better control and prevents loosing traction of the rear wheel.
Great tips, only one I’d disagree with would be downhill breaking. I’d always go for front wheel as you have so much more weight over it and weight is grip. Rear brake just tends to slide and then you lose control. Other than that brill 👍
Great tips, well explained but I have to share a frustration….. My £5k, IP rated bike won’t tolerate a soaking in a couple of feet of fresh water? I can take my old £2k trials motor-bike to just below my knees in water, no issues with all electrics submerged. What have I paid for??
Join me on Haydens drop on the Wild Dog enduro ride! A nasty single track drop with a vertical slope on the right and a vertical drop on the left! Both sides are rock outcrops with no safe landings. Mr Hayden set this drop and it has his name as he was the first to go over the bars and destroy his MTB!
Yes, it's the other way round, you need to sit down on the saddle to keep pressure on the rear wheel, that it will not spin. You only should stand up, if you really need that extra power on a very steep section
I absolutely disagree riding steep chutes on the rear brake only! Or move your body far above the rear wheel! Your brake power is at the front!!! Stay centered above your BB and put pressure on your bar. Brake your front as hard as you can without sliding, if you feel a slide modulate the brake quickly. Your brakeforce is about 80% front 20% rear.
@@General_Crock No, A flip will only happen if you're braking too hard and your wheel locks in. On steep slab rock you can see pros even riding nose manuals.
@@General_Crock Just try it! Usually you can brake much harder than you think! By the way - I do not mean 80% of full force, but in relation to your rear brake. The absolute force depends on steepness and type of ground, i.e. grip.
I did give this a thumbs down comment but I'm not being critical. I'm a newbie to this so the tech and expected knowledge beforehand is bewildering ,We all need some basic or at least intermediate understanding.
Chris, Turbo mode is for unfit sissies. If you have a fit rider on a eMTB, ECO mode and the lowest gear can climb any "possible" climb. Trust me, I'm fit currently, getting thumbs-up from a friendly eMTB riders when I'm on my 20 year old analog trekking bike ;-)
I strongly disagree with your Tipps on dealing with muddy terrain. Every trail builder will hate you for trying going around mud or puddles by using the outer edges because you will be enlarging the spot and making it harder for the builder to repair that section... Even on natural trails / not man made, it will erode the vegetation more than necessary and might anger the landowner
Did you find these tips helpful?
Yes especially the river crossing one thank you
Very helpful.
You literally touched on all the different technical features that I find here in Munich! I've struggled will all of them, so this video helps a lot! PS: wet roots are the worst thing in the world :(
Liked this vid, more e-mtb trail tip videos would be awesome!
Chris, You are the master of demostrating skills and right way, but also the wrong way! Great job! Clint, The (USA) eBike Guy⚡ x2
Great value. Great looks.
I have approximately 1000 charges on my ebike now. No degradation noticed.
Turbo mode is still quite fit.
On a steep descent only using your rear brake will leave you going down out of control. Or you will go to fast for your own good or trying to slow down lock up the rear wheel. In both situation you are no longer in control. Always use front break when going down steep descents but as you said modulate, and keep both wheels turning !
Yeah, sometimes it seems Chris is great only when jumping, on anything else we old farts have been doing 20+ years ago in MTB world, ah, I'm always smiling ;-)
2weeks ago I had my front wheel crossed up on a wet root. Many broken ribs and a clavicle broken in 3 pieces and a broken helmet. Very timely.
Ooof. Sounds similar to my offing. Only one brake myself. Clavicle. Hurts like nothing else. Seeing the guidance regarding the dropper of the seat post is where I went wrong I think. Having said that I need a dropper post as it's something I currently don't have.
Hope your fit and well soon.
Some hills you will get up in trail, but not in turbo. I find if theres loads of tight tech turns. The middle mode is better.
Plus you coming across as a turbo johny 😂
The only reason to use turbo is when I simply can't pedal enough from fatigue when climbing, usually close to the end of the climb. A step lower gives me better control and prevents loosing traction of the rear wheel.
@@mallias2683 especially in the wet season ie. 10 months of the year
It depends upon the surface- roots and crap turbo won't work but it's fine in the dry on hard pack.
Great tips, only one I’d disagree with would be downhill breaking. I’d always go for front wheel as you have so much more weight over it and weight is grip. Rear brake just tends to slide and then you lose control. Other than that brill 👍
Great tips, well explained but I have to share a frustration….. My £5k, IP rated bike won’t tolerate a soaking in a couple of feet of fresh water? I can take my old £2k trials motor-bike to just below my knees in water, no issues with all electrics submerged. What have I paid for??
Is the dropper post out there with a two stage drop, as there are times i would like a slight drop but not full drop?
All dropper you can stop wherever you want
Join me on Haydens drop on the Wild Dog enduro ride! A nasty single track drop with a vertical slope on the right and a vertical drop on the left! Both sides are rock outcrops with no safe landings. Mr Hayden set this drop and it has his name as he was the first to go over the bars and destroy his MTB!
EMBN - Eggs Make Bacon Nice
They do but, I'm not sure tha......oh never mind 🍳🥓👍
Someone told me I should be out the saddle 90% of the time on any climb. Is this bad advice?
Yes, it's the other way round, you need to sit down on the saddle to keep pressure on the rear wheel, that it will not spin. You only should stand up, if you really need that extra power on a very steep section
I absolutely disagree riding steep chutes on the rear brake only! Or move your body far above the rear wheel! Your brake power is at the front!!! Stay centered above your BB and put pressure on your bar. Brake your front as hard as you can without sliding, if you feel a slide modulate the brake quickly. Your brakeforce is about 80% front 20% rear.
80% front brake on a steep chute = a forward flip with 1 and 1/2 rotations. Braking balance/bias moves way back on the steeps.
@@General_Crock No, A flip will only happen if you're braking too hard and your wheel locks in. On steep slab rock you can see pros even riding nose manuals.
@@uwe_bike 80% is too hard- you wheel will lock on that terrain.
@@General_Crock Just try it! Usually you can brake much harder than you think! By the way - I do not mean 80% of full force, but in relation to your rear brake. The absolute force depends on steepness and type of ground, i.e. grip.
@@uwe_bike Nope, I'm not trying it - you wanna kill me. Must not Like Canadians or something.
I did give this a thumbs down comment but I'm not being critical. I'm a newbie to this so the tech and expected knowledge beforehand is bewildering ,We all need some basic or at least intermediate understanding.
2nd aha
Chris, Turbo mode is for unfit sissies. If you have a fit rider on a eMTB, ECO mode and the lowest gear can climb any "possible" climb. Trust me, I'm fit currently, getting thumbs-up from a friendly eMTB riders when I'm on my 20 year old analog trekking bike ;-)
I strongly disagree with your Tipps on dealing with muddy terrain. Every trail builder will hate you for trying going around mud or puddles by using the outer edges because you will be enlarging the spot and making it harder for the builder to repair that section... Even on natural trails / not man made, it will erode the vegetation more than necessary and might anger the landowner
Respact water Skandinavia. Ghostboyr