Gorgeous 🤩 I just helped out a neighbor the other day with an abandoned bicycle locked to their mailboxes. Turns out it's a vintage Barracuda with a Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub. The shifter is broken so I ordered a new one, and will hopefully restore it to its former glory 😁
I’ve just watched this for the third time, it’s most therapeutic! Your attention to detail is incredible, thank you for sharing this master class of Sturmey rebuild!
@@AMBikeCo Hi. I’ve got a problem with my Sturmey archer 3 speed hub on my raleigh. It doesn’t engage idle when pedaling or just when I walk bike pedals keep spining. When cycling I can feel force transmitted to pedals when I’m not pedalling. Is there a simple fix to it?
Amazing job... I just got a brand new brompton 2019 and it has this rear hub.. today I notice a lil play and I was going crazy... I’m not use to see any lateral play in my fixie hubs bc they have sealed bearings.. but now I understand... thank u so much.. I was about to return the bike 😂
Through the '60s many of us kids had Raleigh or similar bikes with S-A 3-speed hubs and the only "maintenance" they ever got was a drop of oil on the small chain that moved the gear rod in and out. They took quite a beating and I never knew of one to give trouble.
Hello sir! Thank you so much for the video. Since I'm trying to restore a Raleigh Superbe, I just realised that second gear is not operational, it's like the gearbox is in neutral when you select it. I also hear what I think is the freewheel ticking all the time when I pedal, but I'm not sure is that actually producing the sound. Watching videos I kind of learned that second gear should have the sprocket and the hub rotating at the same pace, but I really don't know what to look at in the hub to make that happen. Just wanted to ask if you had any suggestion for having already experienced that kind of situation. Thank you again!
Hi there. It sounds like this is related more to your shifter cable tension than the hub itself. Incorrect cable tension will cause the gears to disengage as they’re not in the correct place. Reset that and it should help. As for the ticking noise, that’s completely normal in all gears when pedalling Sturmey Archer 3-speed hubs. It changes speed in different gears but should be there. Don’t worry about that at all.
@@AMBikeCo Thank you so much! The shifting is now fine. The only issue now seems to be the ghost riding when bike is pushed. Lifting the bike on a stand and spinning the wheel, sometimes the sprocket seems one piece with the nearest disk at his left, and the pedals start moving, while other times they seem independent. They made me notice the wheel wiggles a bit and this can be related to a broken axle. I'm afraid the only way to understand that is disassembling the entire hub, right?
thanks for vıdeo.I did over tightening mıstake and now when free wheelıng also tıre movıng also when movıng the bıcycle by hand pedals movıng ıs thıs harm to hub? also I used not quaılıty hard oıl on the bearıngs
I just had a 1990 S.A. hub apart and this looks like an older model??? With the old clutch and driver. Not the no inbetween gears model. Did S.A. sell both designs for a while???
Hey great video v useful. I am in middle of same job. Can you tell me what you are scooshing onto the mechanism with the spritzer bottle...is it alcohol or some other fluid?... presumably to clean and loosen things off to get the pins and pawls and springs out? (My mech has slghtly different arrangement with circlip holding in the pawls)
Hey, amazing video thanks! I've got a bit stuck removing the outer housing, would be super useful to know what the big ring tool you use at 1:22 is? I've been trying the whacking it with a hammer and punch with no success so far 🥺 Thanks!
Hi Frank, it’s Sturmey Archer’s ball cup tool for this very purpose. It doesn’t fit all AW hubs though, so can be really frustrating. You might have some luck with a pipe wrench. Hope this helps, Colin.
Man, if that white grease is lithium grease... when I tried using that, it turned into a big goopy soup. I used marine grease instead which seems to hold in place way better. What's your experience with that?
Honestly, no issues! I’ve had serviced hubs back after a year of use and the grease is still largely intact. Edit: it’s not lithium grease, which might explain the difference in results.
Lithium is in loads of different greases and is just one aspect of it, there'll be thickners and a base oil as well, I've been using a red fully synth lithium bearing grease with good results, doesn't seep which means it stays cleaner, seems to last longer too.
Heya, thanks for this video. I have a very rough hub now after the bike fell on its side. Its a 1999 3 speed hub according to its housing. I think the bearings might have got misaligned and i intend to replace them. I noticed there are 2 bearings on each side (7 1/4 according to my search, is that right) and a bigger one with a black retainer (where can i get that?). Is that all? 3 bearings? Thanks
That's correct, 7 x 1/4 bearings as long as they're in a cage. In terms of availability, SJS Cycles in the UK stock most of their spares. I hope this helps, Colin.
Hi I enjoyed your video and I have a couple of questions, Can you tell me what year Sturmey Archer hubs staring using the large spanner for removing the hub from the shell, (like in your video) how does one know when to place a washer behind and front of the cog rather than two washers then cog followed by the split ring
Hi Gerard. Regarding the year switch to the large spanner, I'm not entirely sure. It makes life an awful lot easier when it fits though. For the spacing of the rear cog, that generally comes down to your chainline. You can use these washers to move the cog to the left or right to help straighten the chain. Hope this helps. Colin
Thanks for this video. I'm going to have to overhaul the sturmey archer AT3 hub on my bike before spring, so this is a great help! What oil and grease are you using? I found the spec number for both but I dunno which brands are good or not haha
Nice video. I am thinking of attempting this on one made in 1992, is there anything different compared to yours from 1990? also what white grease is that? don't want to use the wrong grease.
Hey bud, there shouldn’t be any differences as far as I know. The grease for the bearings is a marine-type grease and the lube for the internals is Muc-Off Wet Lube.
I have a strurmey archer three speed coaster brake wheel I would like to have overhauled but I live in the United States, New York City. I cannot find a shop that will do the job. Do you know of any shops in New York City, or in the US that could do the job? Thanks.
I've got a 1991 Brompton with the same hub, which made suspicious grinding noises. Now I will open, clean and regrease it, maybe the noise will disappear? Thanks for the great vid, probably saved me some money!
Glad to help! Please take great care with the drive side cone adjustment when reassembling. Backing off the cone 1/4 to 1/2 turn to create play is absolutely vital for smooth running. Enjoy!
Hey. You have a big experience with these hubs. I am wondering that should be some oil/grease on the gearwheel in the planetary gear. In my opinion there should be. In my hub I use ceramic grease. Especially if you have hub with the torpedo - it is necessary to use a grease. Some users used a white grease dedicated only to the inner hubs from Shimano (as RJ The Bike Guy's). Some used other liquid white grease dedicated to hubs generaly (is cheaper). What do you think?
Hey Michal There shouldn’t really be any grease on the internals except for the bearings. Oil is much better for the gears as it won’t dry out over time. The oil I added to the gears and pawls etc. here will get distributed as the hub spins with use. Then in time it can be topped up using the little oil port on the shell. That’s my technique anyway. Hope this helps. Colin
Hey Tom, it's grease to stop the threads from seizing. You should only use it on the threads and the bearing cups though, everywhere else needs to be a thin oil. Hope this helps. Colin
I had a bike with this gearing. 2nd gear would suddenly slip without warning. Very dangerous. Personally I prefer the more simple derailleur. Good video though. Thanks. x
Hey, great work on this piece of art, you certainly know your way around it !... is this the same hub which is fitted to the Raleigh chopper from the 70’s ?
Yes, though your hub will have fewer washers on the outside and 24 uncaged 3/16 balls in the right ball cup under a press fit cap instead of the plastic cage. A 1970s hub will also have 15mm (5/16 whitworth) cone locknuts instead of 17mm
After much debate i decided to use Muc-Off wet lube. People had suggested using SAE-30 oil and sewing machine oil to me. Not entirely sure what would be best in the long run
You can always top up with a different oil using the oil port in the coming weeks/months and it’ll replace the existing oil used. SAE-30 will be a good choice for that.
Gorgeous 🤩
I just helped out a neighbor the other day with an abandoned bicycle locked to their mailboxes. Turns out it's a vintage Barracuda with a Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub. The shifter is broken so I ordered a new one, and will hopefully restore it to its former glory 😁
I wondered, "Could I rebuild this hub myself?" Then I watched your video and realized the answer is "No. Stop. Don't." Thank you.
😀
Why not? Clear AF...
There's a lot more parts than I expected to be inside that hub. Going to have to watch this several times to understand the mechanics of it.
I’ve just watched this for the third time, it’s most therapeutic! Your attention to detail is incredible, thank you for sharing this master class of Sturmey rebuild!
Thanks Paul! I find the noises almost like ASMR.
You’ll be glad to hear I plan to make more soon 🙂
@@AMBikeCo Hi. I’ve got a problem with my Sturmey archer 3 speed hub on my raleigh. It doesn’t engage idle when pedaling or just when I walk bike pedals keep spining. When cycling I can feel force transmitted to pedals when I’m not pedalling. Is there a simple fix to it?
Thank you so much for posting this great video. Very helpful.
Cepet pisan filemna ,da kudu popolotan atuh nenjona oge ,, lieur ieu mah...euuh
Thank you for his movie. Now know why after repair in bike shop, gears not works - fixed by myself!
You contributed to human herritage, Sir. Nice video and clear AF. Thank you.
Amazing job... I just got a brand new brompton 2019 and it has this rear hub.. today I notice a lil play and I was going crazy... I’m not use to see any lateral play in my fixie hubs bc they have sealed bearings.. but now I understand... thank u so much.. I was about to return the bike 😂
Thank you 🙂 Enjoy your Brompton!
*this guy is really fast at disassembling parts* 😳
It bodes well for me that speed impresses you #chandlerfromfriends 🙂
Beautiful. I'd be reluctant to ever try this myself, but it was very satisfying to watch!
Thank you! Appreciate it.
Through the '60s many of us kids had Raleigh or similar bikes with S-A 3-speed hubs and the only "maintenance" they ever got was a drop of oil on the small chain that moved the gear rod in and out. They took quite a beating and I never knew of one to give trouble.
Exactly, they're incredibly robust. The fact I still get 60s/70s/80s models through the workshop to service is testament to their quality.
Good👍j,aí. Cherche. Moyeu. Torpedo. Deigang. Model. 55made in Germany. 3. Viteces. Thanks. Yeu
@@AMBikeCo thank yeu. J,aí. Cherche. Moyeu. Torpedo. Dereigan.odel. 55. Made in Germany 3. Viteces
Hello sir! Thank you so much for the video. Since I'm trying to restore a Raleigh Superbe, I just realised that second gear is not operational, it's like the gearbox is in neutral when you select it. I also hear what I think is the freewheel ticking all the time when I pedal, but I'm not sure is that actually producing the sound. Watching videos I kind of learned that second gear should have the sprocket and the hub rotating at the same pace, but I really don't know what to look at in the hub to make that happen. Just wanted to ask if you had any suggestion for having already experienced that kind of situation. Thank you again!
Hi there. It sounds like this is related more to your shifter cable tension than the hub itself. Incorrect cable tension will cause the gears to disengage as they’re not in the correct place. Reset that and it should help.
As for the ticking noise, that’s completely normal in all gears when pedalling Sturmey Archer 3-speed hubs. It changes speed in different gears but should be there. Don’t worry about that at all.
@@AMBikeCo Thank you so much! The shifting is now fine. The only issue now seems to be the ghost riding when bike is pushed. Lifting the bike on a stand and spinning the wheel, sometimes the sprocket seems one piece with the nearest disk at his left, and the pedals start moving, while other times they seem independent. They made me notice the wheel wiggles a bit and this can be related to a broken axle. I'm afraid the only way to understand that is disassembling the entire hub, right?
Nice. I usually replace the ball bearings in the races if I need to take one of these apart. No oil/grease hole in the '90s ones?
good video ! lots of explanations !
thanks for vıdeo.I did over tightening mıstake and now when free wheelıng also tıre movıng also when movıng the bıcycle by hand pedals movıng ıs thıs harm to hub? also I used not quaılıty hard oıl on the bearıngs
Just amazing! Thank you!
Great video...do you happen to have any extra HSA121 ball ring. I would like to buy if you do. Let me know. Tbanks
I just had a 1990 S.A. hub apart and this looks like an older model??? With the old clutch and driver. Not the no inbetween gears model. Did S.A. sell both designs for a while???
Woow so amazing. Where is the break in 3 speed hub?
There’s no brake on the AW, it’s 3-speed internal only 👍🏻
Hey great video v useful. I am in middle of same job. Can you tell me what you are scooshing onto the mechanism with the spritzer bottle...is it alcohol or some other fluid?... presumably to clean and loosen things off to get the pins and pawls and springs out? (My mech has slghtly different arrangement with circlip holding in the pawls)
Hi Jim, it's WD-40 to aid in the rust release/removal. Hope this helps. Colin.
@@AMBikeCo Thanks Colin
Hey, amazing video thanks! I've got a bit stuck removing the outer housing, would be super useful to know what the big ring tool you use at 1:22 is? I've been trying the whacking it with a hammer and punch with no success so far 🥺 Thanks!
Hi Frank, it’s Sturmey Archer’s ball cup tool for this very purpose. It doesn’t fit all AW hubs though, so can be really frustrating. You might have some luck with a pipe wrench. Hope this helps, Colin.
A bit quick, but nice to watch. I will try this tomorrow. ;-)
Man, if that white grease is lithium grease... when I tried using that, it turned into a big goopy soup. I used marine grease instead which seems to hold in place way better. What's your experience with that?
Honestly, no issues! I’ve had serviced hubs back after a year of use and the grease is still largely intact.
Edit: it’s not lithium grease, which might explain the difference in results.
Lithium is in loads of different greases and is just one aspect of it, there'll be thickners and a base oil as well, I've been using a red fully synth lithium bearing grease with good results, doesn't seep which means it stays cleaner, seems to last longer too.
Heya, thanks for this video. I have a very rough hub now after the bike fell on its side. Its a 1999 3 speed hub according to its housing. I think the bearings might have got misaligned and i intend to replace them. I noticed there are 2 bearings on each side (7 1/4 according to my search, is that right) and a bigger one with a black retainer (where can i get that?). Is that all? 3 bearings? Thanks
That's correct, 7 x 1/4 bearings as long as they're in a cage. In terms of availability, SJS Cycles in the UK stock most of their spares. I hope this helps, Colin.
Where did you get the notched Spanner to remove the inner gearing from the casing?
Hey Jim, it’s a Sturmey Archer tool and available online 👍🏻 SJS Cycles in the UK stock it.
🙏 Nyc dear doing good job keep it up god bless you
Hi I enjoyed your video and I have a couple of questions, Can you tell me what year Sturmey Archer hubs staring using the large spanner for removing the hub from the shell, (like in your video) how does one know when to place a washer behind and front of the cog rather than two washers then cog followed by the split ring
Hi Gerard. Regarding the year switch to the large spanner, I'm not entirely sure. It makes life an awful lot easier when it fits though. For the spacing of the rear cog, that generally comes down to your chainline. You can use these washers to move the cog to the left or right to help straighten the chain. Hope this helps. Colin
MASHAALLAH khub valo video
Thanks for this video. I'm going to have to overhaul the sturmey archer AT3 hub on my bike before spring, so this is a great help!
What oil and grease are you using? I found the spec number for both but I dunno which brands are good or not haha
very useful! thank you!!
Nice video. I am thinking of attempting this on one made in 1992, is there anything different compared to yours from 1990? also what white grease is that? don't want to use the wrong grease.
Hey bud, there shouldn’t be any differences as far as I know. The grease for the bearings is a marine-type grease and the lube for the internals is Muc-Off Wet Lube.
@@AMBikeCo Thanks for replying :) had a feeling it was something like that :) and saw it was muc off lube. Should be finishing the rebuild today.
I have a strurmey archer three speed coaster brake wheel I would like to have overhauled but I live in the United States, New York City. I cannot find a shop that will do the job. Do you know of any shops in New York City, or in the US that could do the job? Thanks.
I don't unfortunately, sorry buddy.
What kind of grease is being used ?
It’s a marine grease being used on the bearings 👍🏻
I've got a 1991 Brompton with the same hub, which made suspicious grinding noises. Now I will open, clean and regrease it, maybe the noise will disappear? Thanks for the great vid, probably saved me some money!
Glad to help! Please take great care with the drive side cone adjustment when reassembling. Backing off the cone 1/4 to 1/2 turn to create play is absolutely vital for smooth running. Enjoy!
Great content, i from Indonesia :)
That hub looks just like mine, mine says on it "Sturmey Archer (in big letters like yours) -- Made in England 86-10
- gears
Hey. You have a big experience with these hubs. I am wondering that should be some oil/grease on the gearwheel in the planetary gear. In my opinion there should be. In my hub I use ceramic grease. Especially if you have hub with the torpedo - it is necessary to use a grease. Some users used a white grease dedicated only to the inner hubs from Shimano (as RJ The Bike Guy's). Some used other liquid white grease dedicated to hubs generaly (is cheaper). What do you think?
Hey Michal
There shouldn’t really be any grease on the internals except for the bearings. Oil is much better for the gears as it won’t dry out over time. The oil I added to the gears and pawls etc. here will get distributed as the hub spins with use. Then in time it can be topped up using the little oil port on the shell. That’s my technique anyway.
Hope this helps.
Colin
Mau tanya mas klo digowes ada jeda itu kenapa ya
Cool restoration, but seems like all parts are fine. Mine don't shift 3rd gear and making sound at second.
Are you able to describe the sound it’s making in 2nd gear?
What is the white paste you're using before you put the pieces back together?
Hey Tom, it's grease to stop the threads from seizing. You should only use it on the threads and the bearing cups though, everywhere else needs to be a thin oil. Hope this helps. Colin
I had a bike with this gearing. 2nd gear would suddenly slip without warning. Very dangerous.
Personally I prefer the more simple derailleur.
Good video though. Thanks. x
Wah ,sangat tertarik sy ,dimana alamatnya ?
One of my spring is broken. How can I fix it?
Lukáš Cimprich Hey Lukáš, you should be able to buy a spare. They are all the same size. Hope this helps.
Do you mean a pawl spring, 'R Spring' ? Just make one with a piece of old brake cable wire bent into shape with needle nose pliers...works fine.
How can I gt one because I have one and it is giving me alt of problem...how can I gt one more?
Hi Anthony, do you mean a new hub? You should be able to buy full hubs or internal spares on eBay. Colin
Beautiful...
Hey, great work on this piece of art, you certainly know your way around it !... is this the same hub which is fitted to the Raleigh chopper from the 70’s ?
Yes, though your hub will have fewer washers on the outside and 24 uncaged 3/16 balls in the right ball cup under a press fit cap instead of the plastic cage. A 1970s hub will also have 15mm (5/16 whitworth) cone locknuts instead of 17mm
great
Damn this guy is lightning fast, he must do a hundred hubs a week.
😃
What kind of grease and oil are you using? Would 3 in 1 oil work?
3 in 1 wouldn’t be suitable here, sorry John. I’d recommend keeping it away from bikes in general. Using Muc Off wet lube here.
No wonder it give a clicking sound. When I stop peddling and I just let it cruise.
After seeing this, I wonder what a 7 speed looks like on the inside 😮
I had one of these until some damn kid stole it the POS. I wish I had never lost it these 3 speed hubs are badasx.
for me... i will give up... its so complicated!
3sped gear sayl for you
slightly too fast for a novice to see what you doing (even though I know what you are doing because I have done it).
That's what the little gear is for next to the cc. You can slow down the playback speed.
After much debate i decided to use Muc-Off wet lube. People had suggested using SAE-30 oil and sewing machine oil to me. Not entirely sure what would be best in the long run
You can always top up with a different oil using the oil port in the coming weeks/months and it’ll replace the existing oil used. SAE-30 will be a good choice for that.