Excellent recommendation on the Sonnex SmartShell, better than the Beast IMO. I have a 1994 4L60E (Camaro) on the shop floor-waiting that'll get a SmartShell & other Sonnex parts whenever I get into it. I'm guessing it'll need a forward sprag as well.
Thanks, Keltecfan! Yep, grab a new borg warner forward sprag and use some 400g sand paper on the inside of the outer race to restore its cross hatch if it’s worn as that gives a better surface for the sprag to bite into.
The 5 gear planetary is also a great upgrade as it keeps everything more stable through the center line of the output shaft. They can be used from donated transmissions with no problems from the 65's
Hey Robert, yes -they are very popular for 700R4s, 4L60Es and, believe it or not - TH350s! I'll be doing a separate video on how to retro one of those into a TH350 soon... Thank you for watching!
@@nickstransmissions i have created a few Frankenstein tranny's just to see if they would work and see why they say certain things won't work for certain years. So far I haven't found anything that doesn't work that people on line says won't.. like the 95 tranny as a one year tranny. This is not true and the high ohm solenoids on the lower ohm circuit frying thr computer also not true. If you find or have a 98 up output shaft they are shot peened from the factory. You may know already but would be great addition also. Me personally I don't like the molded pistons because the steel doesn't expand as the aluminum creating weak point in the drum. Burns 3 4 clutches in half the time as aluminum.
Yep, same here...The 95s technically are a stand alone year but easily adaptable to work in other years, as long as they have the bosses on the case to mount a manual lever position sensor for use in a 96-2000 with a gen 1 small block (4.3, 5.0, 5.7). Years ago, I had a customer who installed a 1995 transmission in his 1996 Suburban as a stop gap so he can put off an expensive rebuild...Lasted him 9 months and failed due to 3-4 clutch pack (had nothing to do with the differences between 95 and 96-06). He had no idea about the year/unit differences, just put it in and ran it. He was lucky, that thing had an MLPS to begin with... I prefer the bonded pistons over aluminum every day of the week, twice on Sundays..While I have never experienced a bonded piston failure, I had an aluminum forward piston crack on me once very early in my rebuilding business and had to deal with in under warranty...Torn down numerous 700R4s and early 4L60Es with cracked aluminum pistons....Never again with those alum pistons...
luckily have not run into the cracked piston. Blown out lip seal few times. Just seems to me that the 700 r4 's and early 60"s would if properly driven last 20 plus years and the after 95's would last 12 or so.. the steel was all I could wrap physics around as the cause. I have several of these tranny's from years ago that were replaced around that time span but the early 90's and back were just going down around the same time 🤔 so the mystery was on. I have a 95 suburban 4x4 lifted with 305 70 16" a 95 Tahoe 4x4 with carb conversion and 96 truck all metal trucks. Suburban broke transmission 7 times. I even put a 300 mm trans on it stuffed into a 95 casing with one inch spacer plate I made. It worked! But I forgot to bolt the trans mount and going through the woods a stump knocked it up and something weird happened and broke the mount on trans case where transfer case bolts and fluid coming out welp that was the end of that. I ended up building one for me because im rough on then. I built a Frankenstein. 93 to 06 parts. Steels from 93 are thinner and right for 7 clutch set up.i shaved all the steels for 8 clutch 3 overrun 6 forward. Couldn't use new clutches it would been to tight so got best used ones and was little tight but had movement and worked 3 years now
Nice work on that frankenstein trans, particularly the Fwd and 3-4 clutch...Glad you haven't encountered the cracked pistons, lol - those will ruin your day for sure!
What would be a basic order of upgrades for a turbo 400? Trying to get added reliability for a street turbo car win maybe a max potential of 700-750 wheel, but likely 550-600 range. Thanks, we appreciate the uploads
Thanks, Tim...For up to 650 HP, review my 'TH400' rebuild overview video as it has everything you'll need parts wise (th-cam.com/video/gZMWbFwt9jo/w-d-xo.html) and incorporate a billet, rollerized forward hub, high energy Borg Warner frictions and choose an appropriate converter based on your cam grind and final drive ratio. From there, calibrate the governor as per desired shift points and drill the spacer plate for firmness. Don't block off the 1-2 accumulator but DO block off the 2-3 accumulator using a set screw. I cover this in the TH400 valve body videos. If you're going beyond 650 I'd add a billet input shaft, output shaft and would also strongly consider incorporating a billet forward drum to go w/it and Super Drum w/larger intermediate sprag assembly for direct. High RPMs at 700+ hp can stress factory drums beyond their tolerance. Also, maybe grab an SFI-approved bellhousing and transmission blanket to put over top of it in the event something comes apart violently and makes it through the case. These last items are your call based on how you plan to use the vehicle and how often you will be tapping into the engine's max power.
Browsing Sonnax's web site but I don't see much of anything for the 700r4. Are the just calling it the 4L60? EDIT: Belay that question, I found their page explaining it all. You've created a really good video set, BTW. Best I've found yet. Thanks and do you do any of the German ZFs, specifically BMW?
Thank you for the kind words, crp gap! Sonnax has been making more products for the 700R4 as of late which is good to see...While I didn't mention it specifically in the video (at least I don't think I did) but I now install their throttle valve plunger and sleeve kit on all 700R4s to proactively address weak/no line rise conditions. I do rebuild the ZF 5-8 speed transmissions and will do a video series when one comes into the shop but I don't see them all that often. Thank you for watching!
If you want to build a 700R4 a la carte using compatible parts from later model 4L60Es, purchase the following: - Paper and rubber kit for the 700R4 (Transstar's kits cover all years of 700R4) - Clutch module, steel module, band and bonded steel/rubber forward drum apply pistons and late model forward return spring assembly for a 1997-2003 4L60E (the reverse input and low-reverse steels in this steel module will be vented) > you can also purchase a 4L65E spec 3-4 clutch pack, including BW high energy frictions, kolene steels along with the 4L65E apply and backing plates - this give you an extra friction and steel in that clutch - A Viton-style rubber seal for the input-output shaft junction (this seal replaces the plastic white seal that comes in the 700R4 paper and rubber kits as that plastic seal isn't very effective You can also purchase a 2003+ reaction shaft and bearing to rollerize the front of the sun shell; this will have you omit your existing reaction shaft and bronze thrust washer that normally goes on the front of the sun shell. If you pair this with Sonnax's Smart Shell then you will fully rollerize the middle of the case. The above build, if paired with the appropriate hydraulic improvements and calibration, would be great for anything up to about 425HP as a nice economical street strip or heavy duty working transmission.
Hi, thank you for the consideration however I actually don't give out my location on TH-cam. That said, if you have a 4L60 or 700R4, they aren't very difficult to rebuild yourself...I have a complete rebuild series on both the 700R4 & 4L60E beyond the high performance vids as well as a full length tear down and inspection video that covers everything you need to inspect/look out for when taking apart one of those transmissions.
Be very cautious, if your half way mechanical with Chevy engines than u can rebuild a 4L60E or 700r Both nearly same. Transmission Bench is about the Best ! Step by Step series in 2 parts for specific transmissions, 4L60E is 2 part and about 16 videos or so. I using them now. Very Detailed to the tiniest washer or bolt ! Check him out.
Replying to your post above... If you're short on the output shaft (i.e. the snap ring groove is not fully exposed, there's something else wrong inside the case. The Sonnax instructions are very clear on what you need to do and how you need to do it. But in case you missed it, swap the factory inner low roller race for the Sonnax race - make sure the side marked 'Front' is indeed facing front. Then, install the bearing that comes w/the Sonnax shell on the back side of the shell with the bearing's inner half facing toward the shell. Then install the sun gear and shell. If you've done all that correctly and you're still having problems then something else rearward is wrong (most common mistake people make in that area is installing the rear case-rear ring gear torrington thrust bearing upside down). If you do that, it pushes all the guts forward by about .050" or so and you may or may not have enough of the snap ring groove exposed to install that snap ring.
Pump upgrades consist of Transgo unbreakable pump rings, Sonnax or Transgo boost and/or pressure regulator valves along with machining the cover and body so that you have ideal pump rotor and slide clearance (.001-.0015) with the pump body deck surface. The smart shell reduces heat at the mid-case while reinforcing the general torque handling capacity of the gear train. Thank you for watching!
@@nickstransmissions thanks for follow up 74602-01K I found video on website, my concern is the bearings. Dont want to install them wrong. Are they always supposed to sit flush?
Hey, Video is ok but comes up short on assembly, leaving out front pinion gear and output shaft. With that, also alot of just noise with the S.S. table, seems u like all the sliding parts around on it. I came to ur video to see step by step on Sonnax Smart shell for 4L60E, as I have mine on table for a 100 percent Rebuild. Your missed the mark on that also. You should rename video, calling it, Explanation of upgrades, as most the video is wasted talking. Not to hurt ur feeling's. I need to see each new part and its bearings as its different than OEM, I'm short on output shaft, to get snap ring installed. Think I got oem part installed that's now not needed.
No hurt feelings, I'm not a snowflake....This was just a topical video, intended to be a quick overview on that shell...If you want to see a full assembly including that Sonnax shell, check out my high performance video, PT5 for 4L60Es, here: th-cam.com/video/2CFIso8matU/w-d-xo.html Noted on the sliding parts on the bench, I can see how that can obscure some of what I'm saying...will keep that in mind for future vids. Like and subscribe - thanks!
Litterally just got all of these today for my 88 700r4and a few other performance parts. Perfectly shown and informative as always good sir
Awesome, Jordan and thanks! They are the best performance shells on the market, IMO.
Excellent recommendation on the Sonnex SmartShell, better than the Beast IMO. I have a 1994 4L60E (Camaro) on the shop floor-waiting that'll get a SmartShell & other Sonnex parts whenever I get into it. I'm guessing it'll need a forward sprag as well.
Thanks, Keltecfan! Yep, grab a new borg warner forward sprag and use some 400g sand paper on the inside of the outer race to restore its cross hatch if it’s worn as that gives a better surface for the sprag to bite into.
@@nickstransmissions Hey Nick, could you shorten the factory inner race and add the roller bearing to the beast shell?
The 5 gear planetary is also a great upgrade as it keeps everything more stable through the center line of the output shaft. They can be used from donated transmissions with no problems from the 65's
Hey Robert, yes -they are very popular for 700R4s, 4L60Es and, believe it or not - TH350s! I'll be doing a separate video on how to retro one of those into a TH350 soon...
Thank you for watching!
@@nickstransmissions i have created a few Frankenstein tranny's just to see if they would work and see why they say certain things won't work for certain years. So far I haven't found anything that doesn't work that people on line says won't.. like the 95 tranny as a one year tranny. This is not true and the high ohm solenoids on the lower ohm circuit frying thr computer also not true. If you find or have a 98 up output shaft they are shot peened from the factory. You may know already but would be great addition also. Me personally I don't like the molded pistons because the steel doesn't expand as the aluminum creating weak point in the drum. Burns 3 4 clutches in half the time as aluminum.
Yep, same here...The 95s technically are a stand alone year but easily adaptable to work in other years, as long as they have the bosses on the case to mount a manual lever position sensor for use in a 96-2000 with a gen 1 small block (4.3, 5.0, 5.7). Years ago, I had a customer who installed a 1995 transmission in his 1996 Suburban as a stop gap so he can put off an expensive rebuild...Lasted him 9 months and failed due to 3-4 clutch pack (had nothing to do with the differences between 95 and 96-06). He had no idea about the year/unit differences, just put it in and ran it. He was lucky, that thing had an MLPS to begin with...
I prefer the bonded pistons over aluminum every day of the week, twice on Sundays..While I have never experienced a bonded piston failure, I had an aluminum forward piston crack on me once very early in my rebuilding business and had to deal with in under warranty...Torn down numerous 700R4s and early 4L60Es with cracked aluminum pistons....Never again with those alum pistons...
luckily have not run into the cracked piston. Blown out lip seal few times. Just seems to me that the 700 r4 's and early 60"s would if properly driven last 20 plus years and the after 95's would last 12 or so.. the steel was all I could wrap physics around as the cause. I have several of these tranny's from years ago that were replaced around that time span but the early 90's and back were just going down around the same time 🤔 so the mystery was on. I have a 95 suburban 4x4 lifted with 305 70 16" a 95 Tahoe 4x4 with carb conversion and 96 truck all metal trucks. Suburban broke transmission 7 times. I even put a 300 mm trans on it stuffed into a 95 casing with one inch spacer plate I made. It worked! But I forgot to bolt the trans mount and going through the woods a stump knocked it up and something weird happened and broke the mount on trans case where transfer case bolts and fluid coming out welp that was the end of that. I ended up building one for me because im rough on then. I built a Frankenstein. 93 to 06 parts. Steels from 93 are thinner and right for 7 clutch set up.i shaved all the steels for 8 clutch 3 overrun 6 forward. Couldn't use new clutches it would been to tight so got best used ones and was little tight but had movement and worked 3 years now
Nice work on that frankenstein trans, particularly the Fwd and 3-4 clutch...Glad you haven't encountered the cracked pistons, lol - those will ruin your day for sure!
great video
Thanks, man!
😎👍👍👍
What would be a basic order of upgrades for a turbo 400? Trying to get added reliability for a street turbo car win maybe a max potential of 700-750 wheel, but likely 550-600 range. Thanks, we appreciate the uploads
Thanks, Tim...For up to 650 HP, review my 'TH400' rebuild overview video as it has everything you'll need parts wise (th-cam.com/video/gZMWbFwt9jo/w-d-xo.html) and incorporate a billet, rollerized forward hub, high energy Borg Warner frictions and choose an appropriate converter based on your cam grind and final drive ratio. From there, calibrate the governor as per desired shift points and drill the spacer plate for firmness. Don't block off the 1-2 accumulator but DO block off the 2-3 accumulator using a set screw. I cover this in the TH400 valve body videos.
If you're going beyond 650 I'd add a billet input shaft, output shaft and would also strongly consider incorporating a billet forward drum to go w/it and Super Drum w/larger intermediate sprag assembly for direct. High RPMs at 700+ hp can stress factory drums beyond their tolerance. Also, maybe grab an SFI-approved bellhousing and transmission blanket to put over top of it in the event something comes apart violently and makes it through the case. These last items are your call based on how you plan to use the vehicle and how often you will be tapping into the engine's max power.
@@nickstransmissions thanks for the detailed reply. I appreciate it 👍
@@timweb1510 You’re welcome, Tim
Browsing Sonnax's web site but I don't see much of anything for the 700r4. Are the just calling it the 4L60?
EDIT: Belay that question, I found their page explaining it all. You've created a really good video set, BTW. Best I've found yet. Thanks and do you do any of the German ZFs, specifically BMW?
Thank you for the kind words, crp gap!
Sonnax has been making more products for the 700R4 as of late which is good to see...While I didn't mention it specifically in the video (at least I don't think I did) but I now install their throttle valve plunger and sleeve kit on all 700R4s to proactively address weak/no line rise conditions.
I do rebuild the ZF 5-8 speed transmissions and will do a video series when one comes into the shop but I don't see them all that often.
Thank you for watching!
Awsome video series ! Can i drill and tap the vent for a barbed fitting to slip a hose on so i can vent the trans up high to keep water out ? Thanks.
Thanks, Bobby. Why not just clamp a long hose onto the vent tube and use something like a one-way valve to let gases vent but nothing in?
@nickstransmissions OK, just didn't want water to get in when I'm crossing rivers and streams in my 91 K5 Blazer.
If you want to build a 700R4 a la carte using compatible parts from later model 4L60Es, purchase the following:
- Paper and rubber kit for the 700R4 (Transstar's kits cover all years of 700R4)
- Clutch module, steel module, band and bonded steel/rubber forward drum apply pistons and late model forward return spring assembly for a 1997-2003 4L60E (the reverse input and low-reverse steels in this steel module will be vented)
> you can also purchase a 4L65E spec 3-4 clutch pack, including BW high energy frictions, kolene steels along with the 4L65E apply and backing plates - this give you an extra friction and steel in that clutch
- A Viton-style rubber seal for the input-output shaft junction (this seal replaces the plastic white seal that comes in the 700R4 paper and rubber kits as that plastic seal isn't very effective
You can also purchase a 2003+ reaction shaft and bearing to rollerize the front of the sun shell; this will have you omit your existing reaction shaft and bronze thrust washer that normally goes on the front of the sun shell.
If you pair this with Sonnax's Smart Shell then you will fully rollerize the middle of the case.
The above build, if paired with the appropriate hydraulic improvements and calibration, would be great for anything up to about 425HP as a nice economical street strip or heavy duty working transmission.
@@nickstransmissions awesome! Thank you again !
@@nickstransmissions do you have a preference on fluid for a 700r4 ? Thanks.
Where are located? I would love for you to rebuild my transmission
Hi, thank you for the consideration however I actually don't give out my location on TH-cam. That said, if you have a 4L60 or 700R4, they aren't very difficult to rebuild yourself...I have a complete rebuild series on both the 700R4 & 4L60E beyond the high performance vids as well as a full length tear down and inspection video that covers everything you need to inspect/look out for when taking apart one of those transmissions.
Be very cautious, if your half way mechanical with Chevy engines than u can rebuild a 4L60E or 700r Both nearly same. Transmission Bench is about the Best ! Step by Step series in 2 parts for specific transmissions, 4L60E is 2 part and about 16 videos or so. I using them now. Very Detailed to the tiniest washer or bolt ! Check him out.
Replying to your post above...
If you're short on the output shaft (i.e. the snap ring groove is not fully exposed, there's something else wrong inside the case. The Sonnax instructions are very clear on what you need to do and how you need to do it. But in case you missed it, swap the factory inner low roller race for the Sonnax race - make sure the side marked 'Front' is indeed facing front. Then, install the bearing that comes w/the Sonnax shell on the back side of the shell with the bearing's inner half facing toward the shell. Then install the sun gear and shell.
If you've done all that correctly and you're still having problems then something else rearward is wrong (most common mistake people make in that area is installing the rear case-rear ring gear torrington thrust bearing upside down). If you do that, it pushes all the guts forward by about .050" or so and you may or may not have enough of the snap ring groove exposed to install that snap ring.
Is this upgrade expand pump life too ?
Pump upgrades consist of Transgo unbreakable pump rings, Sonnax or Transgo boost and/or pressure regulator valves along with machining the cover and body so that you have ideal pump rotor and slide clearance (.001-.0015) with the pump body deck surface. The smart shell reduces heat at the mid-case while reinforcing the general torque handling capacity of the gear train.
Thank you for watching!
When do you use the shim?
What shim? Are you referring to one of the end play adjustment shims?
@@nickstransmissions thanks for follow up 74602-01K I found video on website, my concern is the bearings. Dont want to install them wrong. Are they always supposed to sit flush?
Here you go: d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/4949/74602-01K-IN.pdf?v=1669240218323
@@nickstransmissions great photo :) thanks!
Hey, Video is ok but comes up short on assembly, leaving out front pinion gear and output shaft. With that, also alot of just noise with the S.S. table, seems u like all the sliding parts around on it. I came to ur video to see step by step on Sonnax Smart shell for 4L60E, as I have mine on table for a 100 percent Rebuild. Your missed the mark on that also. You should rename video, calling it, Explanation of upgrades, as most the video is wasted talking. Not to hurt ur feeling's. I need to see each new part and its bearings as its different than OEM, I'm short on output shaft, to get snap ring installed. Think I got oem part installed that's now not needed.
No hurt feelings, I'm not a snowflake....This was just a topical video, intended to be a quick overview on that shell...If you want to see a full assembly including that Sonnax shell, check out my high performance video, PT5 for 4L60Es, here: th-cam.com/video/2CFIso8matU/w-d-xo.html
Noted on the sliding parts on the bench, I can see how that can obscure some of what I'm saying...will keep that in mind for future vids.
Like and subscribe - thanks!