Great Video! Great Information for Hot Rod Gurus. Thank you for your time and talent and knowledge. I currently have 4 700r4/4l60 units in my possession and I'm getting ready to build one or two solid units. Now I know which parts to use!! And what to order.
I have a 1988 700r4 that I will be using with a 350 in a street-strip setup. It sounds like I should upgrade from the aluminum pistons to the bonded ones. Would it make sense then to just swap in an entire late 90's 4l60e input drum? Would I need to use different 3/4 clutches, steels, etc than the ones that came in the 700r4 rebuild kit if I did that?
You can swap the drum but I'd keep the #4-marked 3-4 clutch apply ring that's in your 1988 drum and then add the bonded pistons and return spring... Purchase the Alto 4L65E 3-4 clutch pack which includes 7 4L65E 3-4 friction discs and six lindered/kolene steels along with the apply and backing plate set for the 4L65E (they're different than the 4L60E set). You can Google the part numbers for those or contact Transpartswarehouse.com to order everything over the phone (eBay may also have listings for them).
My 097 is cracked in the center support. It’s stamped 90 guessing that’s the year it was made since it’s a 90s case and it’s in those years like you said. Will all my components fit how they are supposed to in the other drums or do I really need to try and find another 097 30 spline v8 drum
Great video. We have upgrade drum help push to next higher grade. Our new design is 10mm bigger diameter 3-4 piston. Take care of 3/4 clutch pressure problems. And we foundry steel into aluminum, then machining to steel spline. It will no cracked
Hi Daniel, thank you for watching! Are you producing these drums mentioned above? If so, do you have a link to website to find out information and pricing on them?
Hi Daniel - please send me a direct message on Tahoeyukonforum.com and I'll reply with my email address. My user name there is NickTransmissions. Thank you in advance!
You can install any 700r4 or 4l60e input shaft into any era drum though all 4L60Es that went into V8 or 4.3L v6 applications as well as those that went into the inline five cylinder engines in the 2000s all received 30 spline input shafts. I would not recommend doing this with an 82-84 700r4 drum as you would want to use a “152” Drum instead as it has the updated 3/4 clitch pack bleeder oriface design
Hi Nick whats the factory 3/4 stack apply plate and pressure plates thickness ? I have 6 .080 frictions and 5 .106 steels i need the bottom plate and the top plate thickness
Hi Chris, I don't know the thicknesses off hand but I believe they are all the same for the 4L60E...You can purchase new apply and backing plates from your local hard parts suppler, Transtar, Amazon and many of the on-line transmission parts suppliers like Transpartswarehouse.
Well, it would be an early 700R4, the "7" indicates a 1987 model year unit with a first generation valve body that has two pressure / pulse switches installed... Does it have a 27 or 30 spline input shaft? If it's a 27 spline, dump it and the pump and move to a 30 spline '152' drum and 303/304 pump body and cover combination. That will mitigate any risk of premature input shaft failure, especially if you're going to be hot roddin...
Ok, than you have a 1987 unit, which is good because you don't want the very early 27-spline style 700R4 in there...Someone must have (wisely) swapped the original transmission at some point in the past.
Hey Nick, after watching your video is it okay to run a a 4L60E drum, like the one on the left in your video, in a 700R4 case. If so this would help a lot.
Hi John, I specify the interchange rules/recommendations in the video - do you recall what I mentioned about the 4L60E drums in 700R4s? What year is your 700R4?
Thanks, Jason! Appreciate the kind words. Check eBay's 'Deluxe Kits' - they all come from Transpartswarehouse.com and usually have Alto high energy clutches, a Powerpack for the 3-4 clutch, steel module, bushings, band, filter as well as paper/rubber....Some will also come with input sprag assemblies and/or Transgo SK700R4 JR shift kits.
I want to use the input shaft in the middle 716 but mines came with the early pilot style 368. All I need to do is change the front pump, input drum, and torque convertor correct?
Hey man, thanks for watching. You're close - but you want a '152' forward drum instead (video explains the reasons) if you're working on a non-aux body 700R4...The 716 and 097 drums were designed for 700R/4L60s/4L60Es that had forward accumulator circuits. Correct on the pump and torque converter. You will want to use a late '84-'86 pump cover/stator that was designed for the 30-spline input shaft for non-aux valve body 700R4s.
You didn't specify that so figured you were working on an early 700R4 as no 4L60E ever received a '368' drum - they went out of production in 1984....And no to your second question as there's literally no point to doing so if you have a Gen1 small block (agin, specify what you have and working on). thanks
I have a 94 4FFD 4L60e that had a 097 Drum and a number 7 apply ring, it has rebuilt before, do you think it came like this or the shop interchanged parts?
Hi Jose, did you watch the video? If no, the answer to your question is in the vid - skip to the section where I begin discussing the later 700R4 and early 4L60E drums.
Yep, I'd say it's 95-99% likely given I've never seen an '097' drum in an otherwise virgin 1993-94 4L60E...That said, you can use the 097 drum as it will work in any 4L60E from 1993-2000 that mates to a Gen 1 or 2 SBC.... Pressure test the drum to make sure it's not leaking at the base welds - let me know if you don't know how to do this and I'll give you another video link...If the drum passes the test, is physically serviceable then you should be fine to reuse it...You can use the #7 apply ring or the #4 apply ring - the #4 apply ring will give you a tighter clutch pack clearance in the 3-4 vs the #7...
@@nickstransmissions Thanks for your response man really appreciate it. I need to buy a new drum so I think I´ll just buy the 716 that is the correct one for my Transmission, I can use it using the same washer that goes behind the thrust washer on the input? mine currently is a 69 I dont really know how to meassure it to know if I got the right one. The input shaft on my 097 drum has damage, my pump failed so I got a new pump and converter. Only thing left to buy is the input drum
Thank you very much for the info and sharing it definitely helped with a few questions i had. I did however have one question, you may have said but figured I'd ask just to check. I have a 05' 4l60e and a 06' 4l60e. I'm upgrading/rebuilding the 06' after a 3/4 burnup. After teardown i was not comfortable with the splines on the stator shaft of the 06' and figured id swap it with the 05'. After research ive seen the differences you talk about on the input shafts. I have the weird one your missing in your video. Now my question is and if you know, can i use the 05' pump, stator, input shaft assembly/housing in the 06' transmission in place of what was in it. Both input shaft housings are 716, but the input shafts are different hence why I'll use the corresponding pump with it. That being said the 05' pump has the old style sealing ring around it and the 06' uses the metal clad stepped type. So if i use the 05' pump in the 06' transmission case should i leave the original ring on and use the new metal one also since the case is designed for it or am i swapping cases also. Sorry if that's alot lol and greatly appreciate any info.
Hi Keith, thanks for watching. Yes you can use the 05 pump assembly and input drum in the 2006 case. Since there's no speed sensor in your scenario and your ECM wont be looking for one, it will work. Main thing is to avoid mixing incompatible pumps and input shafts...
Yep, no issues with doing that. You can install them in 700R4 drums also...Some builders actually prefer the separate configuration vs the conjoined for high performance/high rpm applications but for stock/mild builds doesnt matter which configuration you use.
@@nickstransmissions Thanks a lot man, Im rebuilding my first transmission, it had something weird going on I dont know if I can explain you my situation to see if you can throw me some light
Well you can try and ill see if i can help steer you in the right direction. First - buy the ATSG manual for the transmission, assuming you dont have it already. That one manual usually helps 99% of the time. If you already have it and it's not helping then reply w/the question here, using all the correct terms for each part so both of us are on the same page about what parts of the trans you're describing or referring to.
@@nickstransmissions I had this 1994 4L60e stock on my Pontiac Firebird it was working good no slipping but one day at a red light when it turned green the car felt soooo heavy, felt weird cant really describe if it was starting on 3rd or 2 gears trying to go at the same time. and even on neutral if I revved it up it moved a little forward. starting the car it lurched a little forward. I bought another Transmission at a Junkyard put my valve body on it and the car ran good and sold it that way, that happened 3 years ago. But now I have another 94 Camaro and I need that Transmission so im rebuilding it, thing is it has no burnt clutches and everything looks good except the forward sprag on the 3-4 Drum looks way overheated and one of the faces of the sprag itselft its like welded to it, Im going to replace it but I dont know if that was the problem, or maybe there was something stuck on that drum that and I didnt noticed, The Manual I have says that the input shaft has to have a little play before dissasembly but this transmission didnt have any so thats why I think that maybe something was stuck, I tried on another transmission and could feel the play, if you want pictures or more info let me know. any input would be greatly appreciated, this is my first time inside a transmission
Another great video. I'm wondering what you would consider minimum clearance in the 3-4 clutch pack on a performance build. I currently have a 097 input drum using a Sonnax 74140-01K HD 3-4 backing plate kit using a #7 stamped apply ring with the Borg Warner 3-4 maxpack kit with high energy frictions and kolene steels. I have 8 frictions installed with approximately .042 clearance, is that a little tight or is it ok? Thanks for any advise, very much appreciate these videos!
Hey Kevin, .042 clearance should be fine...If you're going to be doing lots of RPMs behind a big power motor, I'd install Transgo's high rate return spring kit as well, assuming you haven't done so already.
We did upgrade 4L60 input drum, the new design is 10mm bigger diameter 3-4 piston. Take care of 3/4 clutch pressure problems. And we foundry steel 3:59 , then machining to steel spline. It will no cracked
I like them for the 3-4 pack, especially in a 7+ clutch stack up. I can't recall whether anyone has the tubular-style Kolene steels for low reverse or reverse input. No clue on the notch vs no notch.
Hi Nick, I am Denis From Chile.Please, help me with your recommendation for my project: I am starting with the rebuild/upgrade of my 1986 700r4 (86 Firebird 305 TPI stock engine for street/city use). My goal is to feel the automatic gear changes of this car as similar as possible to a modern car. According to my researchs, I have 3 options for this: 1.- Rebuilt my 86 trans with the necessary case modifications + valve body swap w/aux. + 87-93 rebuild kit + opening the pump hole and grinding a bit the case, for pipe installation. 2.- Buy a 1991 Blazer used transmission and rebuild it (local market is reduced for parts and import parts values are increased by freight costs + tax). 3.- Buy a 1993-2013 used 4L60E, remove and use all its internal parts + modified 86 case + valve body w/aux system + rebuild kit according for trans year purchased I don´t know yet what happens with output shafts and converter compatibility. Thanks
Hi Denis, thank you for watching. I'd buy the used Blazer transmission but if you can, inspect it before you purchase...You can check out my video on how to buy a used transmission here: th-cam.com/video/nG8VYHKSMv0/w-d-xo.html The 1991 will have an aux valve body and better 3-4 clutch pack compared to the 1986 forward drum so shift feel and timing will be a bit improved plus the 3-4 pack itself is a bit stronger though you can install a max pack or 4L65E pack to make it even better. The pump in the 1991 transmission will feature a 10-vane rotor and slide vs the 7 vane installed in your 86 transmission. Keep your existing trans in case you need gear parts and transfer your output shaft and extension housing from the 86 to the 1991 unit so you don't need to buy a new speedometer drive/driven gear kit and speedo housing. Also install the Sonnax throttle valve sleeve and plunger kit to proactively address any wear or leakage w/the factory sleeve and plunger...Insufficient line rise is usually due to the TV sleeve and plunger being worn. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other ?s and good luck with the build!
Well, I finally bought a 700r4/4l60 transmission, from a 1992 Oldsmobile Wagon. The transmission + converter + cover with bolts + tube, cost me the equivalent of US$ 450 shipped. I also have a Trans go kit 700 jr. + a new Sonnax governor + 1-2 and 3-4 accumulator pinless pistons. Now, will I have to buy the 87-93 rebuilt kit that you recommend? What do I do if the sun shell and aluminum pistons are okay? My car should run in the city between 1500 and 4000 RPM with a maximum of about 200 hp only. Thank you for your advices
Hi Denis, replace the sun shell with a heat treated version, never reuse the factory shell in these transmissions. Ditto for the accumulator pistons -they are always replaced on overhaul. Buy the kit that corresponds to your year range, which is 87-93. Good luck with the build!
O.K., but what sun shell? there are a lot of "made in Taiwan" versions. In Asia, they put any word in its products: Treated, Special, Heavy Duty, OEM, USA, Germany, etc. Hard to believe everything they say. What do you use for the 4l60 rebuild?
Sonnax makes the best smart shell on the market so if this is your personal build, I'd make the investment and go with that one...TCI is also an option (very similar design)...Most of my 4L60E shells come from Transstar and I've been using them for over 10 years, haven't had one strip or fail yet. I imagine the shells come from Taiwan, which is fine. Taiwan =/= China, quality of Taiwanese produced goods is generally much better than anything equivalent coming out of China.
Gotcha - you have a 1987 case...1987 is a tricky year as it's a change over year...Your separator plate has a mix of pre and post aux-valve body characteristics...Specifically, you should have a low reverse check ball in the case (bathtub-style check ball seating location) and two circular holes at that same location in the plate...You'll also have all the cut-outs, orifices for the aux-valve body if you have one... So....If you have an aux-valve body then you can run the 716 drum/shaft assy without worrying about overly harsh engagements into Drive/D3/2/Low...If you do NOT have an aux-valve body, then I'd find the correct drum for your application (152 drum will work)...But I believe most of the 1987s had the aux valve body hence why you have an 097 drum. The difference is in the forward feed orifice in the drum...Aux VB versions had a 6mm dia orifice while the forward drums that went into the non-aux vb 700R4s had a 3mm orifice. Hope that all helps... Please subscribe if you haven't already - I'm always putting out 700R4 and 4L60E content so you won't miss anything.
Hi Gilberto, You will also need the updated return spring assembly, GM part 2426085 (reuse the one that came with it if in good shape). If you want to run a 4L60e 3-4 pack, you will need to install a #7 apply ring and 4L60e 3-4 backing and apply plates (delete all the 700r4 plates and apply plate support). What's the application (ie daily driving/cruising, street strip, off road, etc)?
Ok great info Just one question So i bought a used 4l60e transmission from a 2006 vehicle 4x4 my vehicle is a 2007 chevy suburban 4x4, i was checking the insides and noticed that the pump doesn't have the speed sensor like mine, and the imput drum shaft also doesn't look like mine with those groves for the speed sensor, can i still rebuild it like this or i have to get a different pump and input drum shaft? Also is the cases exactly the same or only the inside parts change? I will really appreciate your help
Hi Marcus, thank you for watching! You will need to acquire an input shaft w/the reluctor gear for the speed sensor and corresponding pump assembly (or swap your pump/input drum from the 2007 unit that you're replacing over to the 2006 unit if both are in serviceable condition) as the 2006 non-turbine SS pump/input shaft parts won't work. And replace the speed sensor itself w/a new AC Delco one as you won't be able to replace once it's been installed without taking the pump back out again. Everything else is the same, case-wise (inside and out).
Yes - always replace the forward speed sensor unless you don't mind taking the transmission back out again to replace the pre-existing one if it fails at any point after the rebuild.
I feel like I should be paying for how great this information is, jesus there is so much to absorb here. Appreciate the video !
You are very welcome
Great Video! Great Information for Hot Rod Gurus. Thank you for your time and talent and knowledge. I currently have 4 700r4/4l60 units in my possession and I'm getting ready to build one or two solid units. Now I know which parts to use!! And what to order.
Outstanding! Thank you for the views and kind words, Sean!
Another great video. Valuable info here.
Thanks again, Kevin!
Best breakdown of these thank you
Thanks, bcframers!
Awesome info bro, your killin it with vids!! Your count is growing FAST!!
Thanks, man! Appreciate the views as always.
Yeah this guy is the real deal. I have to replay certain parts a few times to let it sink in.
@@doctorwebinstein4101 Yup Yup
I have a 1988 700r4 that I will be using with a 350 in a street-strip setup. It sounds like I should upgrade from the aluminum pistons to the bonded ones. Would it make sense then to just swap in an entire late 90's 4l60e input drum? Would I need to use different 3/4 clutches, steels, etc than the ones that came in the 700r4 rebuild kit if I did that?
You can swap the drum but I'd keep the #4-marked 3-4 clutch apply ring that's in your 1988 drum and then add the bonded pistons and return spring...
Purchase the Alto 4L65E 3-4 clutch pack which includes 7 4L65E 3-4 friction discs and six lindered/kolene steels along with the apply and backing plate set for the 4L65E (they're different than the 4L60E set). You can Google the part numbers for those or contact Transpartswarehouse.com to order everything over the phone (eBay may also have listings for them).
My 097 is cracked in the center support. It’s stamped 90 guessing that’s the year it was made since it’s a 90s case and it’s in those years like you said. Will all my components fit how they are supposed to in the other drums or do I really need to try and find another 097 30 spline v8 drum
Hi Riley - any 716 drum will do if you have a Aux VB 700R4 or any 4L60E - just match the input shaft with the appropriate application.
Great video. We have upgrade drum help push to next higher grade. Our new design is 10mm bigger diameter 3-4 piston. Take care of 3/4 clutch pressure problems. And we foundry steel into aluminum, then machining to steel spline. It will no cracked
Hi Daniel, thank you for watching! Are you producing these drums mentioned above? If so, do you have a link to website to find out information and pricing on them?
@@nickstransmissions yes. We have. What is your email address? I will send to you photos. If you are interesting. I can send to you samples
Hi Daniel - please send me a direct message on Tahoeyukonforum.com and I'll reply with my email address. My user name there is NickTransmissions.
Thank you in advance!
@@nickstransmissions I just did. Hope you received. Thanks
I just sent you a PM on the Tahoeyukonforum. Please respond there with a link to your 4L60E drum when you get a chance...Thanks, Daniel!
Most complete explanation I have seen ! Just one question, Can you use the #7 apply ring in the early 700r4 drums ?
Thanks, Edward! Yes, you can retro the #7 back to any year 700r4, including the early 152 and 368 drums.
Did not I understand you saying that I could put a 30 spline earlier shift into a 4L60E drum?
You can install any 700r4 or 4l60e input shaft into any era drum though all 4L60Es that went into V8 or 4.3L v6 applications as well as those that went into the inline five cylinder engines in the 2000s all received 30 spline input shafts. I would not recommend doing this with an 82-84 700r4 drum as you would want to use a “152” Drum instead as it has the updated 3/4 clitch pack bleeder oriface design
Ok, just thought I’d ask. Thanks for your reply. Thanks for your Great Videos
You’re welcome, Al and thank you for watching.
Hi Nick whats the factory 3/4 stack apply plate and pressure plates thickness ? I have 6 .080 frictions and 5 .106 steels i need the bottom plate and the top plate thickness
Hi Chris,
I don't know the thicknesses off hand but I believe they are all the same for the 4L60E...You can purchase new apply and backing plates from your local hard parts suppler, Transtar, Amazon and many of the on-line transmission parts suppliers like Transpartswarehouse.
@@nickstransmissions thank you Nick
You're welcome, Chris.
Great video. Really good information. I have tore my transmission down and my drum has a vast number of 4410. What would it been. Thanks
Thanks for watching, dragonfist!
Do you have a 700R4 or 4L60E?
What year is your transmission?
@@nickstransmissions I think is a 700r4 but not really sure. The case number is 7YPM. It was in a 84 trans am.
Well, it would be an early 700R4, the "7" indicates a 1987 model year unit with a first generation valve body that has two pressure / pulse switches installed...
Does it have a 27 or 30 spline input shaft? If it's a 27 spline, dump it and the pump and move to a 30 spline '152' drum and 303/304 pump body and cover combination. That will mitigate any risk of premature input shaft failure, especially if you're going to be hot roddin...
@@nickstransmissions. When I count the input shaft I get a 30 spline. That’s the shaft that’s connected to the drum.
Ok, than you have a 1987 unit, which is good because you don't want the very early 27-spline style 700R4 in there...Someone must have (wisely) swapped the original transmission at some point in the past.
Hey Nick, after watching your video is it okay to run a a 4L60E drum, like the one on the left in your video, in a 700R4 case. If so this would help a lot.
Hi John,
I specify the interchange rules/recommendations in the video - do you recall what I mentioned about the 4L60E drums in 700R4s?
What year is your 700R4?
@@nickstransmissions The case is a 1993 model.
You're good to go to use that 4L60E drum
@@nickstransmissions Thank you
Amazing videos thanks for sharing. Do you have a bade 700r4 rebuild kit you would recommend?
Thanks, Jason! Appreciate the kind words. Check eBay's 'Deluxe Kits' - they all come from Transpartswarehouse.com and usually have Alto high energy clutches, a Powerpack for the 3-4 clutch, steel module, bushings, band, filter as well as paper/rubber....Some will also come with input sprag assemblies and/or Transgo SK700R4 JR shift kits.
I want to use the input shaft in the middle 716 but mines came with the early pilot style 368. All I need to do is change the front pump, input drum, and torque convertor correct?
Hey man, thanks for watching. You're close - but you want a '152' forward drum instead (video explains the reasons) if you're working on a non-aux body 700R4...The 716 and 097 drums were designed for 700R/4L60s/4L60Es that had forward accumulator circuits. Correct on the pump and torque converter. You will want to use a late '84-'86 pump cover/stator that was designed for the 30-spline input shaft for non-aux valve body 700R4s.
I actually have 99 4L60E the input drum was damaged by the reverse drum. It has the pilot style and I wanted to upgrade to the 300mm. Can I?
You didn't specify that so figured you were working on an early 700R4 as no 4L60E ever received a '368' drum - they went out of production in 1984....And no to your second question as there's literally no point to doing so if you have a Gen1 small block (agin, specify what you have and working on).
thanks
I have a 94 4FFD 4L60e that had a 097 Drum and a number 7 apply ring, it has rebuilt before, do you think it came like this or the shop interchanged parts?
Hi Jose, did you watch the video? If no, the answer to your question is in the vid - skip to the section where I begin discussing the later 700R4 and early 4L60E drums.
@@nickstransmissions Yea it seems the shop interchanged them based on the video but will it work normal?
or I should get a 716 drum to use with my Number 7 apply ring?
Yep, I'd say it's 95-99% likely given I've never seen an '097' drum in an otherwise virgin 1993-94 4L60E...That said, you can use the 097 drum as it will work in any 4L60E from 1993-2000 that mates to a Gen 1 or 2 SBC....
Pressure test the drum to make sure it's not leaking at the base welds - let me know if you don't know how to do this and I'll give you another video link...If the drum passes the test, is physically serviceable then you should be fine to reuse it...You can use the #7 apply ring or the #4 apply ring - the #4 apply ring will give you a tighter clutch pack clearance in the 3-4 vs the #7...
@@nickstransmissions Thanks for your response man really appreciate it. I need to buy a new drum so I think I´ll just buy the 716 that is the correct one for my Transmission, I can use it using the same washer that goes behind the thrust washer on the input? mine currently is a 69 I dont really know how to meassure it to know if I got the right one. The input shaft on my 097 drum has damage, my pump failed so I got a new pump and converter. Only thing left to buy is the input drum
Why did you recommend to NOT use the white seals for the input/output shaft junction???
Because they LEAK!!!
Use 4L60E tan viton/rubber seals instead.
Thank you very much for the info and sharing it definitely helped with a few questions i had. I did however have one question, you may have said but figured I'd ask just to check. I have a 05' 4l60e and a 06' 4l60e. I'm upgrading/rebuilding the 06' after a 3/4 burnup. After teardown i was not comfortable with the splines on the stator shaft of the 06' and figured id swap it with the 05'. After research ive seen the differences you talk about on the input shafts. I have the weird one your missing in your video. Now my question is and if you know, can i use the 05' pump, stator, input shaft assembly/housing in the 06' transmission in place of what was in it. Both input shaft housings are 716, but the input shafts are different hence why I'll use the corresponding pump with it. That being said the 05' pump has the old style sealing ring around it and the 06' uses the metal clad stepped type. So if i use the 05' pump in the 06' transmission case should i leave the original ring on and use the new metal one also since the case is designed for it or am i swapping cases also. Sorry if that's alot lol and greatly appreciate any info.
Hi Keith, thanks for watching. Yes you can use the 05 pump assembly and input drum in the 2006 case. Since there's no speed sensor in your scenario and your ECM wont be looking for one, it will work. Main thing is to avoid mixing incompatible pumps and input shafts...
I can install the 97+ forward sprag assembly with the integrated sun gear assembly on a 94 4L60E that came with the sun gear separated?
Yep, no issues with doing that. You can install them in 700R4 drums also...Some builders actually prefer the separate configuration vs the conjoined for high performance/high rpm applications but for stock/mild builds doesnt matter which configuration you use.
@@nickstransmissions Thanks a lot man, Im rebuilding my first transmission, it had something weird going on I dont know if I can explain you my situation to see if you can throw me some light
Well you can try and ill see if i can help steer you in the right direction. First - buy the ATSG manual for the transmission, assuming you dont have it already. That one manual usually helps 99% of the time. If you already have it and it's not helping then reply w/the question here, using all the correct terms for each part so both of us are on the same page about what parts of the trans you're describing or referring to.
@@nickstransmissions I had this 1994 4L60e stock on my Pontiac Firebird it was working good no slipping but one day at a red light when it turned green the car felt soooo heavy, felt weird cant really describe if it was starting on 3rd or 2 gears trying to go at the same time. and even on neutral if I revved it up it moved a little forward. starting the car it lurched a little forward. I bought another Transmission at a Junkyard put my valve body on it and the car ran good and sold it that way, that happened 3 years ago. But now I have another 94 Camaro and I need that Transmission so im rebuilding it, thing is it has no burnt clutches and everything looks good except the forward sprag on the 3-4 Drum looks way overheated and one of the faces of the sprag itselft its like welded to it, Im going to replace it but I dont know if that was the problem, or maybe there was something stuck on that drum that and I didnt noticed, The Manual I have says that the input shaft has to have a little play before dissasembly but this transmission didnt have any so thats why I think that maybe something was stuck, I tried on another transmission and could feel the play, if you want pictures or more info let me know. any input would be greatly appreciated, this is my first time inside a transmission
Another great video. I'm wondering what you would consider minimum clearance in the 3-4 clutch pack on a performance build. I currently have a 097 input drum using a Sonnax 74140-01K HD 3-4 backing plate kit using a #7 stamped apply ring with the Borg Warner 3-4 maxpack kit with high energy frictions and kolene steels. I have 8 frictions installed with approximately .042 clearance, is that a little tight or is it ok? Thanks for any advise, very much appreciate these videos!
Hey Kevin, .042 clearance should be fine...If you're going to be doing lots of RPMs behind a big power motor, I'd install Transgo's high rate return spring kit as well, assuming you haven't done so already.
Yes I do have the transgo high rate return spring kit installed. Thank you.
We did upgrade 4L60 input drum, the new design is 10mm bigger diameter 3-4 piston. Take care of 3/4 clutch pressure problems. And we foundry steel 3:59 , then machining to steel spline. It will no cracked
How do you feel about the kolene steels I notice there’s no v notch in the low reverse steels from kolene not sure why?
I like them for the 3-4 pack, especially in a 7+ clutch stack up. I can't recall whether anyone has the tubular-style Kolene steels for low reverse or reverse input. No clue on the notch vs no notch.
Hi Nick, I am Denis From Chile.Please, help me with your recommendation for my project:
I am starting with the rebuild/upgrade of my 1986 700r4 (86 Firebird 305 TPI stock engine for street/city use).
My goal is to feel the automatic gear changes of this car as similar as possible to a modern car.
According to my researchs, I have 3 options for this:
1.- Rebuilt my 86 trans with the necessary case modifications + valve body swap w/aux. + 87-93 rebuild kit + opening the pump hole and grinding a bit the case, for pipe installation.
2.- Buy a 1991 Blazer used transmission and rebuild it (local market is reduced for parts and import parts values are increased by freight costs + tax).
3.- Buy a 1993-2013 used 4L60E, remove and use all its internal parts + modified 86 case + valve body w/aux system + rebuild kit according for trans year purchased
I don´t know yet what happens with output shafts and converter compatibility.
Thanks
Hi Denis, thank you for watching. I'd buy the used Blazer transmission but if you can, inspect it before you purchase...You can check out my video on how to buy a used transmission here: th-cam.com/video/nG8VYHKSMv0/w-d-xo.html
The 1991 will have an aux valve body and better 3-4 clutch pack compared to the 1986 forward drum so shift feel and timing will be a bit improved plus the 3-4 pack itself is a bit stronger though you can install a max pack or 4L65E pack to make it even better. The pump in the 1991 transmission will feature a 10-vane rotor and slide vs the 7 vane installed in your 86 transmission. Keep your existing trans in case you need gear parts and transfer your output shaft and extension housing from the 86 to the 1991 unit so you don't need to buy a new speedometer drive/driven gear kit and speedo housing. Also install the Sonnax throttle valve sleeve and plunger kit to proactively address any wear or leakage w/the factory sleeve and plunger...Insufficient line rise is usually due to the TV sleeve and plunger being worn.
Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other ?s and good luck with the build!
Oh, thanks for take your time for a quick reply to me. My previous search was many days watching your "master class" videos @@nickstransmissions
You're welcome, Denis.
Well, I finally bought a 700r4/4l60 transmission, from a 1992 Oldsmobile Wagon. The transmission + converter + cover with bolts + tube, cost me the equivalent of US$ 450 shipped.
I also have a Trans go kit 700 jr. + a new Sonnax governor + 1-2 and 3-4 accumulator pinless pistons.
Now, will I have to buy the 87-93 rebuilt kit that you recommend?
What do I do if the sun shell and aluminum pistons are okay?
My car should run in the city between 1500 and 4000 RPM with a maximum of about 200 hp only.
Thank you for your advices
Hi Denis, replace the sun shell with a heat treated version, never reuse the factory shell in these transmissions. Ditto for the accumulator pistons -they are always replaced on overhaul. Buy the kit that corresponds to your year range, which is 87-93.
Good luck with the build!
O.K., but what sun shell? there are a lot of "made in Taiwan" versions. In Asia, they put any word in its products: Treated, Special, Heavy Duty, OEM, USA, Germany, etc. Hard to believe everything they say. What do you use for the 4l60 rebuild?
Sonnax makes the best smart shell on the market so if this is your personal build, I'd make the investment and go with that one...TCI is also an option (very similar design)...Most of my 4L60E shells come from Transstar and I've been using them for over 10 years, haven't had one strip or fail yet. I imagine the shells come from Taiwan, which is fine. Taiwan =/= China, quality of Taiwanese produced goods is generally much better than anything equivalent coming out of China.
Can i use the 716 drum in lieu of the 097 drum in my 700r4?
What year 700R4?
@@nickstransmissions I believe '87. Numbers atamped onto case are: 7YDM0928
8 could be a B
Gotcha - you have a 1987 case...1987 is a tricky year as it's a change over year...Your separator plate has a mix of pre and post aux-valve body characteristics...Specifically, you should have a low reverse check ball in the case (bathtub-style check ball seating location) and two circular holes at that same location in the plate...You'll also have all the cut-outs, orifices for the aux-valve body if you have one...
So....If you have an aux-valve body then you can run the 716 drum/shaft assy without worrying about overly harsh engagements into Drive/D3/2/Low...If you do NOT have an aux-valve body, then I'd find the correct drum for your application (152 drum will work)...But I believe most of the 1987s had the aux valve body hence why you have an 097 drum.
The difference is in the forward feed orifice in the drum...Aux VB versions had a 6mm dia orifice while the forward drums that went into the non-aux vb 700R4s had a 3mm orifice.
Hope that all helps...
Please subscribe if you haven't already - I'm always putting out 700R4 and 4L60E content so you won't miss anything.
To upgrade the 700R4 input drum with bonded pistons, what else need to be changed? The 3-4 backing and applied plates?
Just took apart one with a 716 input drum with bonded pistons
Hi Gilberto,
You will also need the updated return spring assembly, GM part 2426085 (reuse the one that came with it if in good shape). If you want to run a 4L60e 3-4 pack, you will need to install a #7 apply ring and 4L60e 3-4 backing and apply plates (delete all the 700r4 plates and apply plate support).
What's the application (ie daily driving/cruising, street strip, off road, etc)?
@@nickstransmissions And the 716 input isn'tinterchangeable?
What year 700r4 are you trying to retro the 716 drum into?
@@nickstransmissions it came out of a 71 Chevy. Some one put in a 1991 700r4.
Ok great info
Just one question
So i bought a used 4l60e transmission from a 2006 vehicle 4x4 my vehicle is a 2007 chevy suburban 4x4, i was checking the insides and noticed that the pump doesn't have the speed sensor like mine, and the imput drum shaft also doesn't look like mine with those groves for the speed sensor, can i still rebuild it like this or i have to get a different pump and input drum shaft? Also is the cases exactly the same or only the inside parts change?
I will really appreciate your help
Hi Marcus, thank you for watching!
You will need to acquire an input shaft w/the reluctor gear for the speed sensor and corresponding pump assembly (or swap your pump/input drum from the 2007 unit that you're replacing over to the 2006 unit if both are in serviceable condition) as the 2006 non-turbine SS pump/input shaft parts won't work. And replace the speed sensor itself w/a new AC Delco one as you won't be able to replace once it's been installed without taking the pump back out again.
Everything else is the same, case-wise (inside and out).
@@nickstransmissions thank u so much for ur fast reply, the speed sensor always jave to replace when rebuild the pump?
Yes - always replace the forward speed sensor unless you don't mind taking the transmission back out again to replace the pre-existing one if it fails at any point after the rebuild.