I really appreciate this video. My truck shifts so smoothly now I almost don't even notice it. 4L60E with 200k. The torque on accumulator bolts is 8ft/Ibs for those that are wondering.
If you plan on removing the valve body, I recommended to use a flat file to smooth out both surfaces of the valve body, including the manifold pressure switch ports on the filter side and the wormtracks area on the case itself. You can use a Combination Sharpening Stone, focusing on the fine side, along with a small amount of transmission fluid. These stones are available at Harbor Freight for around $1.99. Make sure to carefully inspect the VB Plate for any check ball wear. You have two options: replace the plate with a new Transgo plate or repair it using a VB-101 kit from Fitzall Repair Puck. If you choose to replace the plate, it's advisable to use Imidized Plastic check balls (Sonnax # 10000-08) to prevent future wear between the check balls and the plate. It's recommended to get all new electronics. For the Manifold Pressure switch, go for AcDelco; for the EPC, choose BorgWarner; for the Shift solenoids, use AcDelco; for the 3-2 downshift, opt for BorgWarner; for the PWM, go with BorgWarner again. Additionally, get a new internal harness from Rostra, which is now an OEM supplier.
So when taking off my old accumulator, part of the gasket under it that goes under the valve assembly broke and now I don’t want to put the new one on until I know if I would have to change the entire seal. Something I don’t feel comfortable with with all the checkballs etc etc . Is there a small gasket I could buy to replace just under the accumulator?
You would be better of to just drop VB and replace the VB plate with a Transgo one + replace both upper and lower VB plate gaskets. Also installing the 3-4 Sonnax pinless accumulator & upgrading the check balls from steel to torlon material would be good upgrade. There is a 1-2 plate that is just that corner piece and a gasket also just for that small corner part of the plate for just the 1-2 accumulator but... its primarily made for when the plate is damaged from the springs & requires a good gasket below it and then the small new gasket above. Of which we have all of those parts just go to link below for direct contact and information : form.jotform.com/60043609371147
The other, larger ball that I threw aside would be for the larger pin diameters - typically .310 - found in 1992 and older 4L60, also known as TH700-R4. For the 1993 models and onward, which are the first year for E units like 4L60E, the pin should be .230. Yes, you can reuse the original springs.
hello sir. my 4l60 in my 06 canyon shifts firm only 1-2 and only when it is cold and makes a slight whine noise - when it warms up it shifts fine does it sound like this could fix my issue?
Could be broken spring and or accumulator itself cracked if plastic. The noise not so much ... colder fluid = thicker fluid. It would be my guess due to a OE cracked accumulator. When it gets warmer fluid get thinner and things swell from the heat a little closing the gaps for the leak.
Blocking the feed passage for the 1-2 or 3-4 accumulators can result in a very firm shift, because it removes the fluid cushion between shifts. However, I do not recommend blocking the accumulators or the FWD accumulator in the valve body EVER. The accumulators are designed to cushion the shifts and engagements, while blocking the FWD accumulator can cause a severe FWD harsh engagement and potentially damage the gear train.
I'm glad you found the video helpful! When it comes to upgrading the valve springs, I recommend using the stock springs on the 3-4 or the Sonnax purple spring #74926 only. As for the 1-2, I suggest using the OEM set unless you have an HP unit, in which case the Sonnax HP spring #77704S may be necessary as it's a very stiff spring. If you need an even harder 1-2 shift, you could consider double stacking the OEM springs with a spacer between them to allow for minimal movement while still maintaining a proper seal, but be aware that this will result in a VERY firm shift.
@@TriStarWWPO Thanks for the info. I'm only doing the 1-2. My truck has a tune and its set to shift firmer as is. I think I'll just leave the stock springs but go ahead and do the piston upgrade.
For the 1-2 accumulator should i put the small spring in just how it was before hand or just put the outer spring in and not the inner? Ive seen videos where people do it either way
I have to say, this is by far the best video I have seen on this very well put together and informative, I have rebuilt a lot of 4l60e trans I recently bought a 06 suburban with the 6.0 and it shifts really hard out of 1st and with the long duration in between I have the sonnax Piston going to change it in the next few days
if wanting to leave shift feel as it was leave as it is. Just remember on accumulators the shorter the stroke of the piston or valve in the accumulator system the firmed the shift the longer the stroke of the piston/valve the softer the shift. But on the firmness it is also dependant on the orientation of the piston on the 60E's spring to plate or piston to plate.
Thanks for the video, but i noticed when i took mines apart it only had 1 spring in it, the smaller 1, not sure if the previous owner tried to fix it or not, but every video i've seen there are always 2 springs, im leaving rhis message here because your video is more detailed and understandable, i have a 2008 gmc sierra 1500 ext cab 5.3l 4x4, should i have 2 or 1 spring inside accumulator?
When the Piston is installed into the housing first "pretty much all 4L60 AKA 700-R4's" this setup created the band apply pressure against the spring tension, the heavier the spring tension the harder the shift. Thats where Sonnax made the real heavy accumulator springs. but only firm up the shift if the accumulator is installed first then the spring. With the springs in first (inverted most all 4L60E's) and the piston on top this created an opposite effect, more spring tension created a softer shift so on this set up. If wanting to firm up the shift use less springs or a smaller "weaker" coil spring set up This is where Sonnax made the light purple spring. Prime example remove both OEM springs and install the 3-4 Sonnax purple accumulator spring "same as pretty much all OEM 3-4 accumulator springs" will result is a MUCH firmer shift. For the most firm shift tap and plug the 1-2 accumulator feed opening. So in your instance GM was trying to increase the shift firmness of the 1-2 shift or someone that worked on it.
The later year onse did not have the inner and outer 1-2 springs just the smaller one "usually" causes a harsher 1-2 shift I always put in the outer spring.
I really appreciate this video. My truck shifts so smoothly now I almost don't even notice it. 4L60E with 200k. The torque on accumulator bolts is 8ft/Ibs for those that are wondering.
That's awesome to hear! I'm glad the video helped improve your truck's shifting.
Thanks. Best video on this process I have seen. I plan on dropping my pan and giving the whole bottom half a freshing up.
If you plan on removing the valve body, I recommended to use a flat file to smooth out both surfaces of the valve body, including the manifold pressure switch ports on the filter side and the wormtracks area on the case itself. You can use a Combination Sharpening Stone, focusing on the fine side, along with a small amount of transmission fluid. These stones are available at Harbor Freight for around $1.99.
Make sure to carefully inspect the VB Plate for any check ball wear. You have two options: replace the plate with a new Transgo plate or repair it using a VB-101 kit from Fitzall Repair Puck. If you choose to replace the plate, it's advisable to use Imidized Plastic check balls (Sonnax # 10000-08) to prevent future wear between the check balls and the plate.
It's recommended to get all new electronics. For the Manifold Pressure switch, go for AcDelco; for the EPC, choose BorgWarner; for the Shift solenoids, use AcDelco; for the 3-2 downshift, opt for BorgWarner; for the PWM, go with BorgWarner again. Additionally, get a new internal harness from Rostra, which is now an OEM supplier.
I love how you take the extra steps
Thanks mang. Need to get time to do more videos....
So when taking off my old accumulator, part of the gasket under it that goes under the valve assembly broke and now I don’t want to put the new one on until I know if I would have to change the entire seal. Something I don’t feel comfortable with with all the checkballs etc etc . Is there a small gasket I could buy to replace just under the accumulator?
You would be better of to just drop VB and replace the VB plate with a Transgo one + replace both upper and lower VB plate gaskets. Also installing the 3-4 Sonnax pinless accumulator & upgrading the check balls from steel to torlon material would be good upgrade. There is a 1-2 plate that is just that corner piece and a gasket also just for that small corner part of the plate for just the 1-2 accumulator but... its primarily made for when the plate is damaged from the springs & requires a good gasket below it and then the small new gasket above. Of which we have all of those parts just go to link below for direct contact and information : form.jotform.com/60043609371147
What about the other bigger ball bearing?
What do I do with that ?
Do i use my original spring again?
The other, larger ball that I threw aside would be for the larger pin diameters - typically .310 - found in 1992 and older 4L60, also known as TH700-R4. For the 1993 models and onward, which are the first year for E units like 4L60E, the pin should be .230. Yes, you can reuse the original springs.
Great vid. That T-45 tip worked perfect. Thanks
Great to hear!
hello sir. my 4l60 in my 06 canyon shifts firm only 1-2 and only when it is cold and makes a slight whine noise - when it warms up it shifts fine does it sound like this could fix my issue?
Could be broken spring and or accumulator itself cracked if plastic. The noise not so much ... colder fluid = thicker fluid. It would be my guess due to a OE cracked accumulator. When it gets warmer fluid get thinner and things swell from the heat a little closing the gaps for the leak.
This install fixed it. Was plastic cylinder. Likely as u said. Weak seal
So what if u dont put that check ball in, lol cuz i didnt, and my trans doesnt want to drive u less i use overrun clutches or manual 1-2
will be a BAD pressure leak.... and not function properly as you found out.....
What’s the point of blocking the 1-2 3-4 and the fwd pistons
Blocking the feed passage for the 1-2 or 3-4 accumulators can result in a very firm shift, because it removes the fluid cushion between shifts. However, I do not recommend blocking the accumulators or the FWD accumulator in the valve body EVER. The accumulators are designed to cushion the shifts and engagements, while blocking the FWD accumulator can cause a severe FWD harsh engagement and potentially damage the gear train.
Thanks for the video. Easy enough. Do you recommend using the stock springs or upgrading to the purple Sonnax spring?
I'm glad you found the video helpful! When it comes to upgrading the valve springs, I recommend using the stock springs on the 3-4 or the Sonnax purple spring #74926 only. As for the 1-2, I suggest using the OEM set unless you have an HP unit, in which case the Sonnax HP spring #77704S may be necessary as it's a very stiff spring. If you need an even harder 1-2 shift, you could consider double stacking the OEM springs with a spacer between them to allow for minimal movement while still maintaining a proper seal, but be aware that this will result in a VERY firm shift.
@@TriStarWWPO Thanks for the info. I'm only doing the 1-2. My truck has a tune and its set to shift firmer as is. I think I'll just leave the stock springs but go ahead and do the piston upgrade.
For the 1-2 accumulator should i put the small spring in just how it was before hand or just put the outer spring in and not the inner? Ive seen videos where people do it either way
I have to say, this is by far the best video I have seen on this very well put together and informative, I have rebuilt a lot of 4l60e trans I recently bought a 06 suburban with the 6.0 and it shifts really hard out of 1st and with the long duration in between I have the sonnax Piston going to change it in the next few days
if wanting to leave shift feel as it was leave as it is. Just remember on accumulators the shorter the stroke of the piston or valve in the accumulator system the firmed the shift the longer the stroke of the piston/valve the softer the shift. But on the firmness it is also dependant on the orientation of the piston on the 60E's spring to plate or piston to plate.
I’ve got 2007 suburban 6.0 4l70e will it still be the same kit for the pinless accumulator
Yes
Thanks for the video, but i noticed when i took mines apart it only had 1 spring in it, the smaller 1, not sure if the previous owner tried to fix it or not, but every video i've seen there are always 2 springs, im leaving rhis message here because your video is more detailed and understandable, i have a 2008 gmc sierra 1500 ext cab 5.3l 4x4, should i have 2 or 1 spring inside accumulator?
When the Piston is installed into the housing first "pretty much all 4L60 AKA 700-R4's" this setup created the band apply pressure against the spring tension, the heavier the spring tension the harder the shift. Thats where Sonnax made the real heavy accumulator springs. but only firm up the shift if the accumulator is installed first then the spring.
With the springs in first (inverted most all 4L60E's) and the piston on top this created an opposite effect, more spring tension created a softer shift so on this set up.
If wanting to firm up the shift use less springs or a smaller "weaker" coil spring set up This is where Sonnax made the light purple spring. Prime example remove both OEM springs and install the 3-4 Sonnax purple accumulator spring "same as pretty much all OEM 3-4 accumulator springs" will result is a MUCH firmer shift. For the most firm shift tap and plug the 1-2 accumulator feed opening.
So in your instance GM was trying to increase the shift firmness of the 1-2 shift or someone that worked on it.
Is the larger spring in the 1-2 the same part number as the 3-4 accumulator?
No the 3-4 is usually lighter tension the "Purple in color" 1-2 is a much thicker coil & much heavier spring usually no color or white or green".
I have the small one. Dealer told me that my transmissions 1-2 didn't have the larger one in it
The later year onse did not have the inner and outer 1-2 springs just the smaller one "usually" causes a harsher 1-2 shift I always put in the outer spring.
I think I'm going to order the outer one. Just the inner in the pinless accumulator looks like she wouldn't want to stay centered
Does it usually use the brown inner spring with the outer one
What type of grease you use? Is it save to be mixed with the transmission fluid? Would be safer if we lube the o-rings with clean transmission oil?
I use Transgel mixed with a mixture of slick 50 & trans fluid. you can use just trans fluid yes or even a little bit of engine oil
Would this apply for the 4l65E also?
Yes same unit different planetary gear sets but accumulators are the same.
what grit to polish inside? What is that spray solvent?
400 grit & can of brake cleaner
Do you know part number for the big spring?
The larger outer 1-2 accumulator spring ?
Is that a 400/1000 grit whetstone?
they are cheap... GORDON Combination Sharpening Stone not sure on the grit...
So it's ok to use the 77704s spring by itself? No inner spring?
Yes
@@TriStarWWPO thank you for your reply,much obliged!
Do you ever do double stacking on the forward in the case
If you’re talking about the 4th accumulator
Block it I do it all the time won’t hurt anything only block that one tho
@@edgarsoto8860 i actually just did the painless sonnax kit so I just used it .
Only on HP builds but....... on those though is better to simply block the feeds for accumulators on HP type builds
T45 FTW 🎉👍
Thanks for the shoutout to T45!
When you’re tapping the t45 bit, do you keep going until it bottoms out on the ball?
No... just enough to deform aluminum to retain the ball. You can simply cross steak it with a chisel.