SHOE REVIEW: Stefano Bemer Replica Russian Reindeer | Kirby Allison
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video, Kirby Allison reviews the ready-to-wear Tradizione shoes by Stefano Bemer. The Tradizione is made to the exact same standard as the bespoke, it has hand-sewn shanks creating either a beveled or a fiddle-back waist (whatever client wants). It really is by all means a bespoke shoe only made on a standard last. The fiddle back is made by preparing the shank in the V shape. Then the side portions of the waist of the out sole are skived to half of the thickness. The outer sole is then attached to the bottom and the fiddle is hammered to shape. This 1786 limited edition of 230 pairs collection in replica Russian reindeer leather, made in collaboration with Horween Leather.
Tradizione price: 1650. Comes with their own wooden box and lasted shoe trees.
stefanobemer.c...
Get in touch with Stefano Bemer:
www.stefanobem...
/ stefanobemer
📸: @stefanobemer
Shop Hanger Project: www.kirbyallis...
VIDEOS TO WATCH
$400 Shoes vs $1300 Shoes | A Black Cap Toe Oxford Comparison • $400 Shoes vs $1300 Sh...
Are These Dress Shoes The Best Deal In New York? • Video
London Savile Row Walking Tour • London Savile Row Walk...
BLOG www.kirbyallis...
FACEBOOK / kirbyallisonoffical
TWITTER / kirbyallison_
INSTAGRAM / kirbyallison
FAQ’s www.kirbyallis...
Hashtags: #KirbyAllison #StefanoBemer #BespokeShoes
If you say “bespoke” 3 times infront of a mirror, a wild Kirby Allison will appear, nah I’m kidding merry Christmas everyone!
(3/3)
In any case, this leather signed by Horween is not a complete reproduction of the historical process called "Leather of Russia" because :
- It is not a fully vegetable tanned leather, as was the original "Cuir de Russie" or as is produced today by J. & F.J. Baker & Co Ltd. which "is the only oak bark tannery in Britain" owned by a family or otherwise known commercially under the brand name "Volinka" registered by the Hermes Group;
Only vegetable tanning, which can last for months (as opposed to a few hours with chrome), allows us to obtain clothes, shoes and any other leather parts with a much better quality and longevity. Therefore, it will naturally be more resistant to moisture or heat than leather tanned in a few hours. Also, Horween leather cannot claim the same qualities as leather that is fully tanned with vegetable tannins as is "real" Russian leather.
- It is not dyed at the time of tanning with the tannins and other tanning compounds but later with an "antiquing" or patina process; this is a later cosmetic travesty;
- It is not so similar in colour to the historical reddish brown (black or white were the only other colours historically referenced for this leather);
- It does not have the true smell so characteristic that has also made it successful (notably in the form of perfumes with in particular "Cuir de Russie" by Chanel) notably linked to the "birch essences" that Horween does not seem to use and which is the supposedly "secret" basis (but whose principles are known in the West since 1163 and with John Tyzack's patent registered in 1691 for "tanning all kinds of skins for leather and converting these same skins into imitation Russian leather with the same grain, the same dye and smell" - although the result of this and subsequent imitations "had not been so conclusive as hoped for"; the Horween version is scented with a "birch oil" (not "birch essence") used after tanning - not during the tanning process; this is a subsequent olfactory disguise; a bit like putting a leather scent on "skai" in cars;
- It has not been demonstrated that this leather is rot-proof as is the "Cuir de Russie";
- There is no evidence of repellent effects on insects, in particular moths;
- It has not been shown to have the other qualities of strength and durability.
It is therefore wrong to claim that it is a "recreation". It is an approximate "imitation", an "ersatz".
It seems to me that this should be corrected because to maintain such a confusion by referring to a mythical process that made the centuries of glory of this leather (not at all secret or mystical as it is written for marketing purposes) is likely to confuse the "consumers".
In fact, this is :
- a "commercial practice" (broader than the notion of advertising) which is defined in the European Directive No. 2005-29 of 11 May 2005 concerning unfair business-to-consumer commercial practices as "any commercial action, omission, conduct, approach or communication, including advertising and marketing, by a trader directly related to the promotion, sale or supply of a product to the consumer";
- Which is furthermore "misleading" and therefore objectionable because they contain or convey false elements which are likely to mislead the average consumer, or elements which are true but presented in such a way that they lead to the same result.
Referring to a leather that is more exotic in the West than cowhide is misleading because it is cowhide (even though, on the contrary, reindeer is more common in Scandinavia, Finland, Russia, Canada, and Alaska)
But above all, referring to a mythical and luxurious method in order to unduly attract its effects and merits is also a deception.
The leather you are talking about is only a cowhide, textured in such a way that it looks like the mythical "Leather of Russia", without having undergone the long and special process, dyed and perfumed afterwards - without having the technical characteristics of being insect repellent and rot-proof.
Thank you for your attention.
What a masterpiece you have in your hands! Merry Christmas Kirby!
Nice shoes! Gonna get me a pair once this damn COVID goes away! Bellisima! 🇮🇹
I love SB Shoes. My 2nd SB will be the 1786, but waiting for my Mto st James first
When compared to a bespoke George Cleverly Russian reindeer, these are relatively affordable. Thanks for the introduction, this is something a could consider.
JustinHEMI yes, because it’s not a bespoke shoe so requires far less hours and therefore labour costs to produce
and it is not the real russian reideer..it is a replica made by bakers in england
Muchas felicidades en esta Navidad. Agradezco el esfuerzo por generar el contenido que tan generosamente compartes; he aprendido bastante, ya que soy apenas un neófito. Mucho éxito y que haya prosperidad en este 2020.
Un abrazo desde Mazatlán, México.
Yes please😍😍😍😍😍😍
Merry Christmas 🎄🦌 🎄⛄ 🎅
Happy Xmas Kirby !cheers from France.
Merry Christmas Kirby
Merry Xmas
I really need to lighten up the color of my Allen Edmond Walnut Strands sir!!! I need info majorly! I’ve called every shoe repair joint around and nobody can do it so I have no clue what to do!!!
Check out the elegant Oxford channel
Sakeenah Auto Solutions it’s funny you should mention him. Check out his video titled “new lease on life”. He actually sent me the shoes I’m referring to. It was extremely nice of him so yeah I follow him closely!
I have a pair of Russian-made bespoke shoes and they are an excellent fit. I had the leather harvested from my mother-in-law's back by famous Russian leatherworker, Andrei Chikatilo. Do you have any special shoe care instructions to suggest? I have been using a simple 'lotion' technique developed by Jame Gumb that seems to be good, but they deserve much better.
Good one, mother in laws are dandy aren't they.
@@misterz2719
They shine up real nicely if you use the right grit sandpaper.
@@Zipperneck. another good one
It puts on the lotion or it gets the hose
Sterfano Bemer is experience👍
Hi Kirby, do you think the Stefano Bemer Tradizione shoes with last modifications is a similar product to what is offered by Saint Crispin's shoes in terms of fit and quality?
I am thinking seriously purchasing this specific shoe. The 1786 Russian Reindeer, correct? But when I go to the Stefano Bemer website, I don't see this EXACT same named shoe. I see one named very much like it, but it is not EXACTLY named the same. If someone could give me the URL for this EXACT shoe (which I suspect I already have) I'd appreciate it. Maybe I'll just go to NY one O these days.
Dear Kirby, which color is walnut in The Saphir Médaille d'Or? Light brown or cognac?
if possible, could you do a video fo care for a shoe made of kudu leather? bought some allen edmond's pattons and not too sure about the care of this shoe. what saphir products would you recomend?
Hi Kirby, if you ever come across a pair of Barkers could you review them? They are a very popular shoe here in the UK as a starter shoe and they appear to be somewhat similar although below the level of a pair of Allen Edmunds. It would be nice to get your opinion on them.
Chris S I have a pair, they are good for their price (they were £235). The soles are poor quality but otherwise I wouldn’t complain.
Let me ask what camera series and lens parameters you made in this movie!
(2/3)
As for the rest, you claim that they are Russian Reindeer (Rangifer tarandus).
First of all, from a historical point of view, the tanning method known as "Russian Leather" or "youft" was mainly applied; according to many Russian historical sources: to cow, calf and sometimes bull hides; according to French sources: to cow, calf and sometimes goat hides; according to English sources: to cow, calf and sometimes goat hides, but also to sheep and a few mentions of horses.
“Cervids" are not historically considered to be the source of "Russian Leather" to this day. At present, they are unknown to specialists.
In particular, specifically regarding the "1786 shipment", there is no doubt. Indeed, the University of Edinburgh (UK) in collaboration with the Musée National d'Histoire Naturelle - CNRS (France) have subjected samples from the batches of skins excavated from the "Metta Catharina" to proteomic analysis and concluded that the skins are of bovine origin ("Method development for the identification of Russia Leather - Comparative study of waterlogged leather samples" published in a peer-reviewed journal in 2021 :
www.pure.ed.ac.uk/ws/portalfiles/portal/152822922/20200622_Hulme_ICOM_CC_paper_Final_with_Figs_and_Tables_updated_ANH.pdf
This study was carried out in partnership with Élise BLOUET-MÉNARD, curator-restorer of leather objects. She will then conduct research with the tanner J. & F.J. Baker & Co Ltd (Andrew PARR, CEO) and with the expertise of Marc STOLTZ (Hermès) to produce a "replica" of the "Cuir de Russie".
Furthermore, and in any case, the leather with which the Stefano BEMER brand makes its shoes is produced by the American tannery Horween Leather Co. under the combined reference of (1°) the appearance of their so-called "Hatch Grain" texture and (2°) the "Pioneer" leather (or formerly "Pioneer Reindeer") produced by "Horween" itself, which is a cowhide leather with a mixed tanning process (the mention "Reindeer" no longer seems to be included in its catalogue).
It is therefore not a deer leather but a bovine leather that Stefano BEMER uses for this model. It is therefore inaccurate to speak of a "Russian Reindeer". In any case, we have to agree because when his site states "An exact replica of the renowned russian reindeer oxford shoes with fiddleback waist and steel tips", if it's the "exact replica" why use cowhide when you write that the historical reference is "reindeer" (it's not that exact) - even though we now know from scientific evidence that it wasn't reindeer...It's very confusing, isn't it?
On the other hand, you state:
[3'15] "The leather is actually from 1786 and was tanned using a special process that just is impossible to find these days."
[3'23] "Now the leather used in this shoe is mock Russian reindeer. So it's not the actual that sank on that ship. But it was recreated the same tanning process. And so the leather looks very similar to the Russian reindeer."
There is a contradiction between your statements: if it is impossible to find today, then it is not possible to "recreate" it.
In any case, this is not a "recreation" of the Horween company as you say.
Indeed, for clarification, Horween's "Pionner" leather has undergone an initial chrome sulphate tanning which has been followed by a second vegetable tanning (which is essentially a way of saving time compared to a strict vegetable tanning).
This leather is then fed with what Horween calls "a rich proprietary blended oil emulsion", a vague terminology which they don't want to communicate too much about for reasons of "trade secrets" most certainly. It is even specified that this "oil" would be perfumed with "birch oil".
Love Stéphane jimenez
The best
Hey Kirby, what are your thoughts on Beckett Simonon or Meermin shoes? Are they a level below Allen Edmonds?
Paul Kim wouldn’t advise buying Meermin from my experience in terms of comfort, but the leather and lasts/styling are decent. I would recommend saving up for a brand such as AE
@@furdiebant I know AE has the cache and experience, but I think like you said, the leather, last, and styling on the Meermins makes it a better value and maybe even a higher quality shoe.
I didn’t catch it. Do they use corks inside they shoes ?
As far as I know, no. They don't need cork to fill the cavity (space between the canvas rib or 'gemming' and the outsole) that you'll have in a goodyearwelted shoes. In a fully handmade shoes the craftsmen will carve a channel through the insole (they call it holdfast), and stitches the welt through the insole to the upper. The outer sole, in turn, is glued directly to the insole and lock-stitched to the welt. So, handwelted shoes don't have the cavity because you don't attach the fabric gem onto the insole, hence no cork.
Only If Santa brings them
You keep saying ‘bespoke, bespoke, bespoke’. They are not bespoke shoes. They are hand made.
True; however I believe the Bemer company themselves refer to these shoes as "bespoke", they even have different lines of "bespoke"
I think he’s trying to say the finishing is to a standard that you would see on a bespoke shoe. But I agree, it’s not clearly expressed.
Koji Attwood I’m sure they do!