One of the reasons why we comp test before start up aside from seeing the engine’s condition upon assembly and before start up… Is that the fuel rail is fully primed too as the pump primes every “ignition ON” Ofcourse a final comp test before dyno or tuning (for other cars) too!
@@SRDmotorsports my idea in the breaking in is drive it normal too, coz if it breaks in the earlier stage it means there is something wrong during the assembly stage. yong iba masyado binibaby kasi
I really love and appreciate what you're doing man, I haven't seen a series on youtube where someone takes an oem Honda d16 and did all these before and after testing with the process of the rebuild to show the improvements, never knew I would of found something like this but I'm glad I finally did, great job man, definitely looking out for the rest, it's nice to see some oem content instead of performance stuff all the time
Oh definitely agree on oem stuff I mean yes aftermarket stuff def would make more But doesn’t mean we can’t max out out After all that’s how “production class” racing spurned extensive creativity and innovation ftw Thanks for this man!
@@SRDmotorsports most definitely! Way back in the old days didn't have performance parts so people had to improvise on just oem stuff, you're welcomed man
@@StraightOutThaGudda4U yes indeed! And I’m glad this series is getting good reaction I mean earlier when I planned and “hoped” this? Most didn’t see the interesting side but now it is seen… So I’m hoping sooner or later I get a chance to rework another one but this time a stock b16 like a local (to me) Honda Civic SiR that has a stock b16
That's a nice mod on the OEM blackbox, improving on the PVC system while retaining the factory look Good emphasis on the ground. I've been using a good grounding kit since the early 90s and it's really improved the performance not only of the engine but also other electronic gadgets installed in a car like a sound set up Can't wait for the dyno
Hahahaha, I love the sound it made when you stomped it slightly in 3k rpm. You can't mistake that loud humming sound before it revs up and becomes more high pitched and VTEC-like sounding. I'll give these cars this, they may not be fast by any means in modern standards, but boy do they give you a shit-eating grin even when you stomp them slightly. Excellent videos as always!
Oh thanks man! Makes me wonder wat good video next could be, could be the importance of grounding what it affects and what it limits us And or Oil pumps 😂 maybe both but which should be first lol
No that’s fine The reason for what I did is Diff locations on older cars seem to have different ground stength or current So what I did was ALL mentioned comes from the negative pole of the battery so all same ground
The factory pcv valve is intact and remains yes But I added “one more” pcv valve The reason I welded a fitting was cuz the only pcv valves I have here are Bseries the L shaped ones and the sohc ones are almost built into the black box Well removable but u shatter it also lol
@@SRDmotorsports Good share. I'm planning to replace the PCV valve on my black box while also doing an oil change which will make it more accessible while taking off the oil filter. Thank you for sharing these informative series brother!
@@XilenTMedia no worries mate Actually prior to this video I researched online and was surprised we can easily get the ITR/Bseries style pcv valve the L shaped one so that’s good
Good video, after doing all the work but why not just delete the PCV valve into a oil catch can? And run the line back into the intake and reburn the crank case ventilation.
yes that works good “venting” out But the pcv work of pulling vacuum off idle and part throttle will no longer exist… but for “ventingl purpose what you said works excellent indeed, But this car doesn’t race hehe I mean I would on mine. so for more idle and low throttle use that vacuum can help on efficiency Made a separate video about that, which is kinda old now almost a year ago
Ok, that’s the case run a line from the pcv valve to a oil catch can with air tight/no leaks and run the other line back into the manifold. Same process running with a pcv valve. Keeps away oil going into your engine.😁😁😁
Yes Ofcourse, just didn’t have a chance to take photos and update the page years ago We did a few black top Toyota, one of them turbo… Two sr20det for drift for a local drifter And some evo 5 4g63t engines before Even a Fiat 1972 engine for someone in Australia
![BABYMONSTER - 'DRIP' M/V REACTION [WAS NOT EXPECTING THIS!!!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t0Lpgr1jo3Y/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Part 1] ทารกน้อยถูกทิ้ง👶 หญิงชราเก็บขวดขายเลี้ยงดูเขาจนโต #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nPTDvFCExks/mqdefault.jpg)
one click and sounds running smooth already.
One of the reasons why we comp test before start up aside from seeing the engine’s condition upon assembly and before start up…
Is that the fuel rail is fully primed too as the pump primes every “ignition ON”
Ofcourse a final comp test before dyno or tuning (for other cars) too!
@@SRDmotorsports my idea in the breaking in is drive it normal too, coz if it breaks in the earlier stage it means there is something wrong during the assembly stage. yong iba masyado binibaby kasi
@@the063one so true and plus bearings don’t touch anything except oil so the break-in usually is just for the rings
SRDMotorsports TV thanks for sharing 🙂 bookmarked!
Oh thanks man! Hope you enjoy it and enjoy it more for “future” references
Handing out Real build tips to get the most from your motors. Excellent content.
Yes sir! Max it out before going beyond
A lot of times the fun is also there! Ftw
I really love and appreciate what you're doing man, I haven't seen a series on youtube where someone takes an oem Honda d16 and did all these before and after testing with the process of the rebuild to show the improvements, never knew I would of found something like this but I'm glad I finally did, great job man, definitely looking out for the rest, it's nice to see some oem content instead of performance stuff all the time
Oh definitely agree on oem stuff I mean yes aftermarket stuff def would make more
But doesn’t mean we can’t max out out
After all that’s how “production class” racing spurned extensive creativity and innovation ftw
Thanks for this man!
@@SRDmotorsports most definitely! Way back in the old days didn't have performance parts so people had to improvise on just oem stuff, you're welcomed man
@@StraightOutThaGudda4U funny thing is “sometimes” those old days set up could probably still hold its own today! :)
@@SRDmotorsports I definitely believe that as well especially when they're healthy!
@@StraightOutThaGudda4U yes indeed! And I’m glad this series is getting good reaction I mean earlier when I planned and “hoped” this? Most didn’t see the interesting side but now it is seen…
So I’m hoping sooner or later I get a chance to rework another one but this time a stock b16 like a local (to me) Honda Civic SiR that has a stock b16
That's a nice mod on the OEM blackbox, improving on the PVC system while retaining the factory look
Good emphasis on the ground. I've been using a good grounding kit since the early 90s and it's really improved the performance not only of the engine but also other electronic gadgets installed in a car like a sound set up
Can't wait for the dyno
True on the ground my old hatch had a decent one so that was the start of a lot of realizations etc
Grounding kit FTW
Now I realize I envy clywire’s crimping dye he has all sorts and sizes for diff eyebolts! 🤣
Hahahaha, I love the sound it made when you stomped it slightly in 3k rpm. You can't mistake that loud humming sound before it revs up and becomes more high pitched and VTEC-like sounding. I'll give these cars this, they may not be fast by any means in modern standards, but boy do they give you a shit-eating grin even when you stomp them slightly. Excellent videos as always!
Yep yep!
thank you so much for this. looking forward for the dyno test
yes sir me too! cant wait! hope it does well :)
Great content I love that ground kit I usually have ground problems but nice thanks again 👍
Oh thanks man!
Makes me wonder wat good video next could be, could be the importance of grounding what it affects and what it limits us
And or Oil pumps 😂 maybe both but which should be first lol
Should I remove the ground connected on the shock tower?
These are my current ground.
-Shock tower
-Firewall passenger side
-Engine Block
No that’s fine
The reason for what I did is
Diff locations on older cars seem to have different ground stength or current
So what I did was ALL mentioned comes from the negative pole of the battery so all same ground
@@SRDmotorsports All right. Thank you again for this video.
@@raymundmatias51 no problem man
Awesome content! Finally saw what you did with the black box. So basically there's two PCV valves installed now, one in the in and out, correct?
The factory pcv valve is intact and remains yes
But I added “one more” pcv valve
The reason I welded a fitting was cuz the only pcv valves I have here are Bseries the L shaped ones and the sohc ones are almost built into the black box
Well removable but u shatter it also lol
@@SRDmotorsports Good share. I'm planning to replace the PCV valve on my black box while also doing an oil change which will make it more accessible while taking off the oil filter. Thank you for sharing these informative series brother!
@@XilenTMedia no worries mate
Actually prior to this video I researched online and was surprised we can easily get the ITR/Bseries style pcv valve the L shaped one so that’s good
Good video, after doing all the work but why not just delete the PCV valve into a oil catch can? And run the line back into the intake and reburn the crank case ventilation.
yes that works good “venting” out
But the pcv work of pulling vacuum off idle and part throttle will no longer exist…
but for “ventingl purpose what you said works excellent indeed, But this car doesn’t race hehe I mean I would on mine. so for more idle and low throttle use that vacuum can help on efficiency
Made a separate video about that, which is kinda old now almost a year ago
Ok, that’s the case run a line from the pcv valve to a oil catch can with air tight/no leaks and run the other line back into the manifold. Same process running with a pcv valve. Keeps away oil going into your engine.😁😁😁
@@lilokyang6280 yep but since this is stock = this is fine
🔥🔥🔥👌
Yes sir it’s back running! Ftw
do you also build non honda engines?
Yes Ofcourse, just didn’t have a chance to take photos and update the page years ago
We did a few black top Toyota, one of them turbo…
Two sr20det for drift for a local drifter
And some evo 5 4g63t engines before
Even a Fiat 1972 engine for someone in Australia
Do you have a contact email?
Yes sir check the “about” section of this channel
@@SRDmotorsports sorry my friend i do not see it there
@@dawsonmacie6984 oh weird as I got some mails and they said they saw it there in “send mai”
It’s sohc_shitbox at yahoo
Same as my PayPal lol
@@SRDmotorsports sohc sleeper shitbox haha thats great
@@dawsonmacie6984 college kid mail wat to expect bahahaha