How to RESTORE old hand saw
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ส.ค. 2021
- In this video we will be restoring a old vintage Disston hand saw. I will be covering disassembling the saw, removing the rust on the saw plate, how to clean up the handle and refinish it , cleaning up the saw hand nuts and screws and finally reassembling the saw. I will also be releasing 2 videos in the coming week on sharpening saws, one on a rip cut saw the other a cross cut.
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Also find chapters below to jump to the section you want.
Hope you enjoy!
NEW? START YOUR HANDTOOL WOODWORKING JOURNEY HERE!
+ • NEW? START YOUR HANDTO...
Relevant Links:
Australia:
= Denatured Alcohol - restorerschoice.com.au/produc...
= SIFA 0000 Steel wool - bit.ly/381zJek
= Flexovit 120 Grit Sandpaper roll - bit.ly/2T08gWi
= Flexovit 240 Grit Sandpaper roll - bit.ly/2VwZNuR
International:
= Dura-Gold Premium 120 Grit Gold - Sandpaper Roll amzn.to/3qY9j5y
= Dura-Gold Premium 240 Grit Gold - Sandpaper Roll amzn.to/3wv8UZM
= Sunnyside Denatured Alcohol - amzn.to/3yCTljS
= Liberon 0000 steel wool - amzn.to/3givRK8
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MUSIC ATTRIBUTION - released under CC-BY 4.0:
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DISCLAIMER:All the tools and equipment listed i have personally used or have recommended a similar product. I also recommend new products similar to vintage tools i use as i cannot give a link to vintage tools. I my gain a small commission when you use my links (It costs you nothing), however, the links still here to help everyone out with tools that will get the job done.
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Wow!!! Amazing how a seemingly worthless hand saw was transformed into such an attractive antique!
Yes its quite amazing, and it doesn't take that long. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Thanks for such a great video
Thankyou glad you enjoyed it
Good that you didn't overdo things and destroy the patina of its history. I've done a few of these the same way and was very happy with the result. A good way to clean the brasswork without the risk of too much abrasion is with very fine 0000 steel wool and neat ammonia. Always use it in a well-ventilated space but the result is impressive.
Thanks for a ammonia suggestion i will have to give it a go, i find 0000 steel wool and fine honing compound like tormek paste work well also.
Lovely saw that ended up with a nice lustre, well done!
Thankyou
Looooove restoration vids!! I hope you do more of them. Also your 'hello and welcome back to the shed' is the best!!
Glad you like the video, i will definitely do more restoration videos in the future. Thanks for the feedback on my intro, much appreciated.
Ello! just to say..I really like your vids. Really well produced. I love your collection of old tools. Its really good to see someone caring for them again. Just to say, white vinegar is really good at removing rust. Soak it for a while then use wire wool. Make sure you rinse it well after in fresh water. Lovely job on this lovely old Disston :o) x
I'm glad you liked the video. Thank you for the feedback and vinegar suggestion. Much appreciated
Excellent job mate. I've got some Spear & Jacksons to refurbish! Cheers.
Thanks Paul, glad you liked it
Great video! Just pick up an old saw at a yard sale.
Thanks, I'm glad you got some value out of the video. Enjoy restoring your
saw.
The green/blue colour on brass is verdigris (pronounced verdigree).
Couldn't have said better myself
Need an advise - paste wax versus oil for the saw blade ? What is best and which product/s , please?
Great question Ill try and break it down into sections see if i can help you out:
Lubricant of saw plate:
I think the paste wax wins this one as less frequency of application is required and the wax in the paste wax stop the saw friction more. Another option is rubbing a candle on the saw plate this work well too and is quicker than paste wax.
3 in 1 oil is still better than nothing (but requires more frequent application) and does work but the paste wax is definitely better, i tend to use candle wax the most for this however.
Rust Inhibiting:
I think the 3 in 1 oil maybe slightly more effective here as the paste wax does have a tendency to have dust stick to it which is a cause of rust in the first place.
Paste wax does still work but if i have used paste wax to lubricate the saw plate i just wipe it down after use and i haven't really had any rust issues doing that.
Pro/Cons
3 in 1 oil:
1) The 3 in 1 oil is cheaper option than paste wax generally (based on the products i purchased)
2) 3 in 1 oil is easier to apply with a tool oiler (th-cam.com/video/ttLREWZt1YU/w-d-xo.html)
3) 3 in 1 oil evaporate in hot temperatures
4) works slightly better to prevent rust in my experience
5) 3 in 1 oil is readily available where i live.
Paste wax:
1) Slightly more expensive, but you can make your own (th-cam.com/video/GTxraznnTiI/w-d-xo.html)
2) Slightly longer to apply as you have to wait for it to dry and buff it off
3) Works better to lubricate the saw plate
4) doesn't evaporate & lasts a long time
5) tends to attract more dust
Products i use:
+ 3 in 1 oil and a rag or tool oiler - link to my video on a tool oiler [rag in a can] (th-cam.com/video/ttLREWZt1YU/w-d-xo.html)
+ Home made paste wax Raw linseed oil and bees wax - link to my video on making paste wax (th-cam.com/video/GTxraznnTiI/w-d-xo.html)
Note: There might be commercially available paste waxes that might work better but i can't comment to that as I've never used them, the same maybe true to oils there maybe better ones out there than 3 in 1 oil.
Final Thoughts:
I tend to use the paste wax for both more than 3 in 1 oil as it doesn't evaporate and lasts a long time. But my favourite products for lubricating a saw plate is a small tea candle just rubbed on. I save the 3 in 1 oil for gardening tools and when restoring anything with a screw thread [i add it to prevent binding].
Hope this helps
Very nice restoration! What was the tube paste that you used on the saw plate? New subscriber
It was a honing paste, the one you saw me use was tormek paste, autosol is another alternative too. Thanks for the sub.
No etching on the blade ?
Nope not on that saw
I am going to assume that this is a Canadian made Disston? What was the name on the label? You have used a pretty aggressive sandpaper particularly over the etch would you not be better off to use more grades in this area to see if there is a possibility of saving it. If you are starting with 120 could you save a substantial amount of time using a palm sander?
This particular Disston was manufactured in Philadelphia. The Medallion clearly show DISSTON and PHILA, which is dated to 1917 - 1940's using www.disstonianinstitute.com/medv2.html , Sorry i didn't get a close up in the video.
I could have definitely used finer grits of sand paper had i thought the etching may have been there, however in my experience a handsaw with that much rust and surface pitting the etching was unlikely to have been there. If i had a container large enough to fit it in i would have used Evaporust solution to remove the rust instead of sand paper, however the saw plate was too long for this.
You probably could save time using a palm sander, however and palm sander like random orbit sanders etc scratch pattern maybe visible in the finish product possibly as swirls. I use the sand paper by hand as your want to go with the grain of the saw plate which is usually in the longitudinal direction of the metal, this does a good job of hiding scratch patterns you may have missed after moving through sand paper grits. That being said i don't own a palm sander so this may not be an issue, i can only go with my gut feeling that it might be an issue.
Hope this helps
How flexible are old saws like this? Do you have a cello bow to see if you can give us a tune with it?? (I'm only partly joking. I'm trying to find a suitable saw for my teenager who wants to learn to play it.)
I know nothing of musical saws, these old saws have quite a bit of spring and tension in them to keep them running true. Not sure if they're made the same
Do you find it hard to source Disston saws in Australia?
Yes. I find it very hit and miss. Sometimes I get lucky, other times I don't.
That’s not made before 1912 if it was it would have a little nibble at the end of the saw
Well i can tell you the Disston D-112 Handsaw (skewback) which this saw is, was sold between 1901 - 1928 and never had a NIB. It is likely based on the medallion this saw was made in 1917. From my research Disston stopped including the NIB on all their straight backed saws from 1st August 1928. I was unable to find out when they stopped on their skew backs.
@@AussieWoodshed
I just picked up some old saws, hand planes, Scottish made beading planes(12),
coffin planes and some other old tools, Rabone Chesterman folding rules etc.
Was looking to sell some of these but have no idea of the value?
A couple of the saws have very ornate handles and some not.
I also inherited some of my dad's old saws (Disston) and planes that he
had since I was a kid, I'm now 62.
A Stanley no72 is one of them.
@@imanenigma3348 I'm unsure on the cost of a lot of vintage tools as i haven't sold any, just picked them up cheap locally to restore.
If i were you i would try and find out the age of the tools and exactly what they are and try to find the same tool or similar on ebay and vintage tool shops to get an idea of the cost e.g This site has a lot of vintage tools and might help give a ballpark figure www.jimbodetools.com/products/stanley-saw-set-103356
Maybe even ask on some forums e.g. sawmillcreek.org/index.php i have pickup some good info from posts on here and that might help you too
When it comes to Disston saws the best way to find how old they are is by the medallions and in some cases the handle shape. I have had luck with a few links in determining the age of this saw i restored, i will list them below for you.
1- www.disstonianinstitute.com/medv2.html
2- www.disstonianinstitute.com/medallionpage.html
3- www.vintagesaws.com/library/ftj/medallion/medallionstudy.html
Hope this helps
Don't you bother soaking it in anything first?
With the smaller saws i do, but these longer handsaws I don't. The main reason is i dont have a container large enough to fit the saw plate and likewise it just too much vinegar or Evaporust to cover the saw plate if it was in a container.
However, it is usually not required to soak a saw plate. I have found through all the saws I've restored the rust tends to be very surface, and easy to remove with sand paper. If rust dust is a concern for you, use wet and dry sand paper with water or alcohol to prevent said dust.
Hope this helps
@@AussieWoodshed appreciated. Thanks