Tackling Wooden Boat Rot | Epoxy Repair Chronicles | Episode 31⚓
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
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• Boat Build Series
Welcome to Episode 31 of the wooden boat liveaboard journey. In this episode I tackle the cabin sides sealing the trim and applying epoxy to seal the wheelhouse where it meets the deck. If you have a passion for boats, especially the timeless beauty of wooden boat projects, you've come to the right place! My channel is dedicated to sharing the process of restoring and repairing a 1940 Seaplane Tender into a fully functional liveaboard.
The boat is a 1940 seaplane tender initially used by the Royal Air Force during WW2. The hull is built of double diagonal mahogany planks and oak ribs. My parents bought this boat more than 30 years ago and used it for weekend trips up the lake. Unfortunately, as they became busy with work it was left idle for many years falling into disrepair. So I've started to invest time into repairing the boat and transforming it into a liveaboard.
I'll document the process as best I can and release weekly episodes here on my TH-cam channel. So make sure to subscribe if you haven't already.
Thanks for the support, As always stay productive and have fun creating!
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Book on Choosing and Using Decorative Woods:
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#boatrepairs #woodenboat #liveaboard
I appreciate your work with simple tools, keep on like you have started.
Put the thickened epoxy into a good quality Ziplock bag and cut small hole in one corner.Squeeze the eoxy out like decorating a cake!
I'm on it already haha. Thanks for the tip
Hi Trevor here from Australia, as a boat restorer for the last 45 years, I would recommend using epoxy straight over your existing roof and do not use any ply as it will create another layer for moisture to accumulate. Apply the epoxy directly to the well sanded wood, round the edges, saturate the wood twice with epoxy. Then while the epoxy is wet apply the glass making sure to roll the glass over the rounded edges. Again wet out twice with epoxy. It is the resin that creates the moisture barrier. In fact on boats there should not be any sharp edges, they create fracture points in any coating. Just my thoughts, hope it helps. Just like Ratty, in the water, on the water. Regards Trevor
I love your humbleness & honesty when recognising things havent worked - its refreshing. Theres so many people on TH-cam who love to say how you're doing it wrong, I find it very rude so i dont know how you cope with it.
Keep going! Youre a young man trying your best on a limited budget. I think youre doing very well. 👍🏼
Heartbreaking when something you have spent so much time over needs redoing, but it is heartwarming watching your progress.
As a 15 year caretaker of a 1936 wooden boat I have one piece of advice for you. When you find rot you need to completely remove it. That generally involves removing the actual rot and 20-30 cm of good wood adjacent to the rot. If I had been doing the cabin top repair in this video I would have replaced the entire plank along the edge of the cabin top. It also looks like there is rot in the top of the cabin side, so that wood needs to be replaced too. If you don't do that the rot will come back. Putting plywood and fiberglass over bad wood will simply result in the rot spreading into the plywood. Many years ago I adopted the slogan "Good Enough Isn't".
By the way, when you glass the plywood I would suggest using cloth NOT mat.
Shame about the canvas top not working it looked great at first. interesting update 2x👍
A couple of good resto projects Utube. “Yaba” in Brazil and “ship happens” in UK for old patrol boat
Yes, wooden boat rot. Thats EXACTLY why then do not build boats out of wood anymore.
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denatured alcohol will dry that wood a lot safer, and probity cheaper!
When you started this channel, and only did shorts, I asked you if you ever where going to release longer episodes. If I remember correctly, you said you didn't have intention to do so. Now, see how far you have come!!!! Your editing skills are rocketing man! Well done.
I have been posting longer form content well before posting any youtube shorts. Thanks for watching! More on the way shortly.
"turdy one" "my fater" "tickened epoxy" "I was tinking" "let me know your toughts" What do you Irishmen have against "h's"? lol :)
Tree tousand tree hundred and tirty tree trees
Just stumbled upon your channel thanks to the algorithms.
Will follow along when I have a moment, but three channels you may want to check out for great advice, tutorials, etc.:
- Boatworks Today - Andy is great with resin and wood & fiberglass work.
- SailLife - Mads & Ava have done a great job of renovating a pair of sailboats!
- Renovation Sportfish - Bob has done absolutely beautiful detailed work, including structural repairs, mahogany work, etc.
Disclaimer - I follow all three of these great channels, but have no relationship with any of them.
Thanks for taking the time to comment and happy to have you aboard following along. I will make sure to check out these three channels. They sound very informative.
Ignore the naysayers 👍
Deberían prohibir cualquier trabajo de este tipo sobre la lámina de agua y obligar a realizarlo en seco. Toda esa porquería de pintura que quita con el formón, trozos de maderas pintados, etc. terminan en el agua y la contaminan. No estoy de acuerdo con estos videos en los que contaminan delante de nuestros ojos y encima se lo agradecemos.
Lo que no mostré fue aspirar los restos de pintura. Puede que sea difícil saberlo mientras lo filmaba, pero la pintura descascarada cayó sobre la cubierta, donde pude aspirarla fácilmente evitando que llegara al agua. Por supuesto, tener el barco en tierra sería la mejor opción, pero simplemente no es viable. Sólo puedo hacer mucho de esta manera. Por eso también he invertido en una aspiradora mejor.
What happened to the nice piano intro you used to have? It was cool. Seems like you have a lot of rework, but that's real life. You've got a lot of patience
On the original episodes? I just changed it up creating this new intro to give a better insight into the work that has been completed so far. That's it! We'll get there eventually. Thanks for your continued support!
Great video again, love watching the old boat coming back to life.
do you plan on getting the engines running again ?, would be great to get her out on the lake under her own steam again or is she only going to be a live aboard
That's the plan!. She will be engine powered too.
You should be inside, working outside seems an exercise in futility.
I agree about working outside in winter
@@LakesideProductions That a boy.
Wow your still doing it but don't do any thing that will mess up your work I'll will keep watching ❤ 🤟🏾👏🏾🙏🏾👌🏾👍🏾 Froen the USA Norristown PA here
Don't think it's good to use fiberglass over sickaflex(spelling). It's more of a joint sealant and made to be flexible, fiberglass is rigid and structural, fiberglass goes under it. As for it lasting.. probably for a while but the movement will cause the fiberglass to delaminate
Rot molecules are still in the wood and can cause dry rot. There are products available to tackle dry rot. Btw have you ever heard of I boats ? A literal wealth of info and videos from boat enthiousiasts ..
I think that using a heat gun would be more effective, accurate, with variable heat settings and a lot easier than lugging a gas cylinder around the place. But keep up the good work. It's a big learning curve that all adds to the store of knowledge and experience.
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As someone said it's a pity abroad the canvas but what you said about the ply then epoxy plus fibre glass should seal it good luck 😊😊
She's looking better, my friend really good job.
If you were to leave the wood raw and weatherproof it with a varnish or something then sikaflex is a good choice for the gaps. Since you have to paint the epoxy fiberglass anyways you could save a bundle going with polyester or vinylester resin on above the water areas. Using it thickened as a filler for those areas underneath saves money aslo..
Check out Andy at BoatWorksToday he doesnt put a lot of videos out lately, but has a wealth of info in his old videos..
I'm sorry but I must say that if you have ANY rot, you need to remove it entirely or it will rot even under epoxy/new wood covering, etc.
very relaxing to watch.
If I was doing that roof I would fibreglass whole roof and wrap over sides that way your protect the egues that way water will run off
I'm going to apply epoxy to the roof edges to tackles this instead of trying to conform the fibreglass edges over a 90 degree.
Save the money on the plywood covering of that deck/cabin and just use the West System to totally cover it with epoxy.
I will need to stabilise the wood to some extent and do not want seams exposed having to reseal over time.
@@LakesideProductions I understand, I just don't want to see you use any wood that's partially rotted. You can't stop rot even if you cover it with something
@@gregorgman Thanks for the concern and thanks for watching.
Not picking on you buddy, i just come from a 40 year background of working on wooden boats and just want you to be successful. @@LakesideProductions
Great job !
a lot done in, a lot of stuff to do. Keep it up
Been watching since the beginning. Those early vids were so cringy. What with the home and auto store materials. But you have come a long way and now with proper ($$$) marine chemicals and technique it's all down hill from here. They don't call it a learning curve for nothing.
Are you for the project or against it? as you said it's downhill from here I am not sure.
I meant you are on the downhill side of the learning curve. @@LakesideProductions
@@jakleo337 I get you now. Thanks!
Plywood and subsequent flberglass sounds good...lots of work. Putting the plywood down you could use one of the new plastic nail guns!!
CHEERS from WESTCOAST VANCOUVER ISLAND!!!