Update again: I got this assembled and it works wonderfully! I did end up using longer bolts and more washers and nuts to make the pieces tight enough to maintain position with the camera. I also added a metal threaded insert for the bolt/wheel that tightens the arm to the pipe. Thanks for making this! I also ended up buying the original designer's plans to make one out of wood sometime.
So happy I could provide some inspiration! I would love to keep uploading daily. I’m not sure I will be able to the rest of this week, but this project has definitely opened my eyes to how much I can do in a day.
FYI: I have that a lot with SVG files in Fusion. A few things I've found that help: 1. Shapes inside of shapes are almost always a non-starter. 2. Layers completely break Fusion 360 if you SVG has it. 3. If the SVG has un-outlined text or raster graphics? Destruction of the importer. 4. If the shape has a fill (sometimes people make their designs with a shape and instead of it just having an outline with no fill, it's an outline with a white fill) often Fusion will break the outline stroke into multiple parts. It's weird how Fusion is so finicky with such a common, open, well-documented file format, but here we are.
@@MorleyKert SVGs have been the source of endless frustration for me and I've bumped into a lot of workarounds when they get wonky. I just wish we didn't have to!
Only semi-related but I get PDFs of architectural drawings for my work and import them into illustrator. And they were probably created in autocad. I usually spend about an hour per file stripping out details I don’t need but if there is a gradient or crosshatch it can be hell to deal with because somewhere along the line a gradient will be translated into hundreds of lines of slightly varying shades and, depending on how intertwined with other shapes the filled area is, it can be very time consuming to carefully select just those lines. Similarly a crosshatch will show up as a fill style but “select same fill” and “select same appearance” will not work for that so it entails a lot manual selecting to get rid of.
@@jeremyspecce Yep. Been there too. It's funny because you do get used to doing stuff like that, but it isn't one of those things that you get faster at. It's always a slow painful process that takes forever no matter how many times you do it!
I don’t want to dissuade you from trying this but the design is essentially based on a classic swing arm lamp which you can buy for less than $20. Again, have fun with it but if your desire is just to have task lights a week of 3D printing and probably $10 worth of filament (plus the lamp parts) is not going to be a very inefficient way to get there. However, for a camera platform, it’s worth it, even if you were to mix wood and 3D printed parts.
I made one with all printed parts and was definitely worth it. I'm thinking of making a second one -- maybe printing the 8 long arm pieces and the wheel and making the plates out of wood.@@jeremyspecce
I really like this project!! Thank you for sharing! One other thing you could to as opposed to increasing the in fill... you could have increased your top and bottom layers.
You can use modifiers in your slicer app to add a cylinder modifier around all holes, that way you can have a higher infill where your holes at whatever distance away you want, without having to make a certain infill for the entire model
Came out great! For some reason I thought it would have been more complex to get those parts build in fusion. I don't know why simply extruding them didn't occur to me, haha
I WAS surprised how complex it was to select all the edges to apply a chamfer, though. That seems so convoluted and tedious. Seems like it be a built in function like a “select outside edges only” type of thing.
The hardware links are "currently unavailable". For hardware I like Albany County Fasteners. I try to order for a few projects at a time since shipping rates are a bit of a shock. Also, one thing I will do differently when I print my second set of parts would be to print the countersink parts upside down with supports, so that I get the PEI texture on the show surface. I prefer cubic infill because it is probably comparable to gyroid but much faster (and quieter, at least on my machine). I'm going to make the struts out of white oak to go with the theme of my makerspace (bright blue, orange, and white accents, with white oak + rubio cottonwhite finish for furniture)
Really cool project! I’m brand new to 3d printing (have a Voron kit ordered). Is there a reason you printed all the pieces except the washers separately? It looks like many of them would have fit together on the build plate.
Nice work, I like the color scheme and how you worked through the issues. If you were to re-do it would you enlarge the through-holes slightly or do you think there’s a benefit to the bolts being very tight like that? Also, just as a tidbit I think those are counter-bores not counter-sinks. Oh, and I loved the handle, you said that red was PLA, does that the mean the washers are PLA as well? Was there a reason to use PLA interest of PETG or it’s just what you had on hand?
Thanks! I think it adds a bit of rigidity with the tight holes so I would leave it. They only have to be put on once. The red PLA is what I had on hand.
Update: I have the parts assembled, but I'm having issues with everything getting tight enough to maintain position. I plan to get some longer bolts so I can add nuts and washers to the opposite side of the pan head. Prints turned out fine! I also plan to use pipe fittings to make a dolly on wheels so I can use it to take photos of my scale dioramas on shelves.
Maaan as a 3d ingineer myself I really struggle not to facepalm all over the place. Your video quality is good but content is falling to mediocre side of things. Why didn't you consider tolerances? Why do you design your parts to have supports where they are unnesessary? Couldn't you make this stuff parametric and improve on flaus that were in the original? Wish you to get better and do more quality contents of a video, not video itself. Happy designing!
Update again: I got this assembled and it works wonderfully! I did end up using longer bolts and more washers and nuts to make the pieces tight enough to maintain position with the camera. I also added a metal threaded insert for the bolt/wheel that tightens the arm to the pipe. Thanks for making this! I also ended up buying the original designer's plans to make one out of wood sometime.
Good call out on the modeled threads call-out. I've been bitten by that mistake as well :)
Oof that’s rough!
your videos has a good mix of knowledge and entertainment. Keep it up.
Thank you, I will!
Looks great and it’s always interesting to see the design and problem solving.
Thanks Dave! Yeah I couldn’t anticipate any of the challenges that came up
Not seen the Woby in in plastic before, great job Morley.
Thanks James!
Looks fantastic! I think the printed washers were a good call.
Thanks man!
Great job, been designing an articulating arm, thanks there's much inspiration here.
Please keep uploading daily. 🌞
So happy I could provide some inspiration!
I would love to keep uploading daily. I’m not sure I will be able to the rest of this week, but this project has definitely opened my eyes to how much I can do in a day.
You live and you learn ✌️😃 awesome video
Thank you!
Great video as always Morley!
Thanks, Collin!
FYI: I have that a lot with SVG files in Fusion. A few things I've found that help:
1. Shapes inside of shapes are almost always a non-starter.
2. Layers completely break Fusion 360 if you SVG has it.
3. If the SVG has un-outlined text or raster graphics? Destruction of the importer.
4. If the shape has a fill (sometimes people make their designs with a shape and instead of it just having an outline with no fill, it's an outline with a white fill) often Fusion will break the outline stroke into multiple parts.
It's weird how Fusion is so finicky with such a common, open, well-documented file format, but here we are.
Weird! Thanks for the tips 😊
@@MorleyKert SVGs have been the source of endless frustration for me and I've bumped into a lot of workarounds when they get wonky. I just wish we didn't have to!
Only semi-related but I get PDFs of architectural drawings for my work and import them into illustrator. And they were probably created in autocad. I usually spend about an hour per file stripping out details I don’t need but if there is a gradient or crosshatch it can be hell to deal with because somewhere along the line a gradient will be translated into hundreds of lines of slightly varying shades and, depending on how intertwined with other shapes the filled area is, it can be very time consuming to carefully select just those lines. Similarly a crosshatch will show up as a fill style but “select same fill” and “select same appearance” will not work for that so it entails a lot manual selecting to get rid of.
@@jeremyspecce Yep. Been there too.
It's funny because you do get used to doing stuff like that, but it isn't one of those things that you get faster at. It's always a slow painful process that takes forever no matter how many times you do it!
That's very cool. And it looks extremely useful.
Thanks Andy! I just got it set up with my microphone, the uses are endless.
So freakin awesome Morley!
Thanks man!
Amazing Project man!
Thank you! 😊❤️
great job Morley!
Thanks man!
Awesome, I might try to use a couple of these for task lights
I don’t want to dissuade you from trying this but the design is essentially based on a classic swing arm lamp which you can buy for less than $20. Again, have fun with it but if your desire is just to have task lights a week of 3D printing and probably $10 worth of filament (plus the lamp parts) is not going to be a very inefficient way to get there. However, for a camera platform, it’s worth it, even if you were to mix wood and 3D printed parts.
I made one with all printed parts and was definitely worth it. I'm thinking of making a second one -- maybe printing the 8 long arm pieces and the wheel and making the plates out of wood.@@jeremyspecce
Very useful too and 3D printing it should make it more durable!
I think I'll try this out! I just need to figure out what I'll clamp onto.
I was literally about to make this same video lol. good job! Im glad i dont have to do the work now i can just buy your stls.
Haha no way that’s wild! Thank you 😊❤️
Very nice! We are building something similar right now
I really like this project!! Thank you for sharing!
One other thing you could to as opposed to increasing the in fill... you could have increased your top and bottom layers.
Thank you! That’s a good point
Really great 👍
Thanks Jacob!
I assumed that the knob was inspired by the one on your Prusa 🤔 Looks good 👍
They are both inspired by that vintage flywheel :)
Thanks!
You can use modifiers in your slicer app to add a cylinder modifier around all holes, that way you can have a higher infill where your holes at whatever distance away you want, without having to make a certain infill for the entire model
It looks really cool, but I don't like that it's entirely friction based... How does it hold up over time? Did the screws need to be retightened?
Came out great! For some reason I thought it would have been more complex to get those parts build in fusion. I don't know why simply extruding them didn't occur to me, haha
I WAS surprised how complex it was to select all the edges to apply a chamfer, though. That seems so convoluted and tedious. Seems like it be a built in function like a “select outside edges only” type of thing.
Yeah selecting specific features in fusion is surprisingly challenging! I didn’t expect to talk about it for that much of the video haha
The hardware links are "currently unavailable". For hardware I like Albany County Fasteners. I try to order for a few projects at a time since shipping rates are a bit of a shock. Also, one thing I will do differently when I print my second set of parts would be to print the countersink parts upside down with supports, so that I get the PEI texture on the show surface. I prefer cubic infill because it is probably comparable to gyroid but much faster (and quieter, at least on my machine). I'm going to make the struts out of white oak to go with the theme of my makerspace (bright blue, orange, and white accents, with white oak + rubio cottonwhite finish for furniture)
Good to know, thanks! I will try to find links that work.
idea: you can make a 3d printed quick release for your camera is more easy to put the camera on the arm
what is that 1/4-20 threaded piece that you put on the 2" 1/4-20 screw at 8:45 mark?
Really cool project! I’m brand new to 3d printing (have a Voron kit ordered). Is there a reason you printed all the pieces except the washers separately? It looks like many of them would have fit together on the build plate.
Shorter print times probably. If something goes wrong during a print of multiple parts, there’s a lot of wasted time and filament.
Nice work, I like the color scheme and how you worked through the issues. If you were to re-do it would you enlarge the through-holes slightly or do you think there’s a benefit to the bolts being very tight like that? Also, just as a tidbit I think those are counter-bores not counter-sinks. Oh, and I loved the handle, you said that red was PLA, does that the mean the washers are PLA as well? Was there a reason to use PLA interest of PETG or it’s just what you had on hand?
Thanks! I think it adds a bit of rigidity with the tight holes so I would leave it. They only have to be put on once. The red PLA is what I had on hand.
Hi! Great job! i tried downloaded STL files but the link is enabled. Could you upload again please? thanks!
Link is now fixed!
@@MorleyKert THANK YOU SO MUCH
Update: I have the parts assembled, but I'm having issues with everything getting tight enough to maintain position. I plan to get some longer bolts so I can add nuts and washers to the opposite side of the pan head. Prints turned out fine! I also plan to use pipe fittings to make a dolly on wheels so I can use it to take photos of my scale dioramas on shelves.
can I buy already printed?
Would you motorise it?
Thanks for the video. But 10$ for STL files? I will pass.
Thanks for watching!
Metric??
Maaan as a 3d ingineer myself I really struggle not to facepalm all over the place. Your video quality is good but content is falling to mediocre side of things. Why didn't you consider tolerances? Why do you design your parts to have supports where they are unnesessary? Couldn't you make this stuff parametric and improve on flaus that were in the original?
Wish you to get better and do more quality contents of a video, not video itself.
Happy designing!