Just did my plugs about a month ago and it was brutal. Then decided to get long tube headers the other day so I’ll be doing all that again. Should have used my brain and did it at the same time. Love the content btw
Get yourself some 5/8th offset ring spanners with various offsets, it makes this job FAR easier. Removing the plastic piece above the upper suspension arm can help on some cars too. Changing the leads on the LT1/LT4 can be done from underneath, and this can make the job significantly easier.
I tried getting it from underneath but was unable to get my hand in the right spot. 😩 it wasn’t too bad from the top though. Know where one can find that plastic clip for the fuel lines?
@@QCLT4Guy i'm in Australia, so probably not going to be much help for those items like fuel pipe anchors, but any sort of plastic piece in a similar shape does the job. Fairly common to see those broken these days.
@@QCLT4Guy i use wrap around type plastic pipe saddles, typically used in electrical installations for holding round plastic sheathed cable. Might be worth checking out your local electrical wholesalers to see if they have something similar.
austrailia? I used to part out First gen RX-7's. I shipped a ton of parts to your corner of the globe. I am hoping to get enough together to get a group C build done. Shipping a kit from Aussie to the US isnt cheap. not at all.
Gotta change out that stock air intake, makes a world of difference ! SLP has a really nice one I put on my 95 and 96. Black with 3 filters looks amazing plus can definitely feel the extra little boost...Amazon has it for around $400
@@QCLT4Guy Don't waste your money. The stock one flows more than your engine can ever consume. Even with a paper filter. Tests were done on a dyno using a 100% stock intake and paper filter, stock intake K&N filter, cut lid with K&N filter, and a "special intake" such as that suggested above. There was not even 4 horses from run to run anywhere in the curve, and the paper filter uncut stock lid gave the second highest figure anyway. There was zero advantage over the 100% stock as it left the factory original setup. That test was done using a Lingenfelter ZR-1 with significantly more power than your LT4 is capable of ever making, so don't kid yourself, and please don't waste your money on rubbish while removing perfectly good OEM parts from a perfectly good car in the process. The SLP Claw looks like shit and doesn't improve anything, but i guess if i wasted $400 on something twice i'd be pretty keen to convince myself i can feel the difference too.
Just did my plugs about a month ago and it was brutal. Then decided to get long tube headers the other day so I’ll be doing all that again. Should have used my brain and did it at the same time. Love the content btw
Thank you for the compliment. I have debated long tubes, but I can't bring myself to deal with the check engine light. one of these days..
Get yourself some 5/8th offset ring spanners with various offsets, it makes this job FAR easier. Removing the plastic piece above the upper suspension arm can help on some cars too.
Changing the leads on the LT1/LT4 can be done from underneath, and this can make the job significantly easier.
I tried getting it from underneath but was unable to get my hand in the right spot. 😩 it wasn’t too bad from the top though. Know where one can find that plastic clip for the fuel lines?
@@QCLT4Guy i'm in Australia, so probably not going to be much help for those items like fuel pipe anchors, but any sort of plastic piece in a similar shape does the job.
Fairly common to see those broken these days.
@@QCLT4Guy i use wrap around type plastic pipe saddles, typically used in electrical installations for holding round plastic sheathed cable.
Might be worth checking out your local electrical wholesalers to see if they have something similar.
austrailia? I used to part out First gen RX-7's. I shipped a ton of parts to your corner of the globe. I am hoping to get enough together to get a group C build done. Shipping a kit from Aussie to the US isnt cheap. not at all.
I know exactly what you are talking about. they would hold them pretty well. I will have to pick some up and get them installed.
Gotta change out that stock air intake, makes a world of difference ! SLP has a really nice one I put on my 95 and 96. Black with 3 filters looks amazing plus can definitely feel the extra little boost...Amazon has it for around $400
I have been looking at one of those, I kinda like the stock look of things in the engine bay though. I hear good things about them though.
@@QCLT4Guy Don't waste your money. The stock one flows more than your engine can ever consume. Even with a paper filter.
Tests were done on a dyno using a 100% stock intake and paper filter, stock intake K&N filter, cut lid with K&N filter, and a "special intake" such as that suggested above. There was not even 4 horses from run to run anywhere in the curve, and the paper filter uncut stock lid gave the second highest figure anyway. There was zero advantage over the 100% stock as it left the factory original setup.
That test was done using a Lingenfelter ZR-1 with significantly more power than your LT4 is capable of ever making, so don't kid yourself, and please don't waste your money on rubbish while removing perfectly good OEM parts from a perfectly good car in the process.
The SLP Claw looks like shit and doesn't improve anything, but i guess if i wasted $400 on something twice i'd be pretty keen to convince myself i can feel the difference too.
Good job but happy Thanksgiving
Happy holidays!
if i had a dllr for each time you said "spark plugs"😂🤔
lol. about 45 bucks!