I'm having the same problem you are. I just keep dumping money into it and it still does the same thing. Lmao. All that's left is injectors or cats. At least it'll be like new when I finally fix it
I am literally down to those things as options...going with injectors next (ordered today) and if that doesn't do it, ripping out stock manifolds and cats and going with headers and straight pipes! 😂
If you want a standard, OE style wire set, AC Delco amzn.to/3NcIGa2 If you are looking for something a little more custom color wise (will likely not fit stock clips/wire separators): amzn.to/3qw7pwM Wire separators: amzn.to/3MRajnq
Are you talking about the Fuel Sender? You could basically follow the fuel pump video and when you pull out the sending unit, just replace the unit with a new one. th-cam.com/video/_DNAaBsaJ2w/w-d-xo.html
Did you use anti gasket maker seal or just the flat fiber gaskets that the water pump AC delco kit I bought came with. I have seen Chris Fix and he covered his gaskets, but to me I wonder is that over kill. ONCE AGAIN you literally have done a video covering exactly where I am at. 1995 LT1, I am full draining the coolant pulling engine plugs and running fresh water, replace pump, thermostat and new sparks and wires and filling up. Thanks for the help
@@Amundred Bro you are literally the best at replying and helping on here. I take it your all sealed up tight. I am going to not use the extra stuff and go with the brand new gaskets doing what they are made to do. Thanks!
I have 2 95 vettes been through a few optis and petris is the best so far for me and misfire after warmup was a classic opti failure symptom for me.also your vette takes a while to start up should be real quick the quikest of any car i had cuz the opti reads exactly where thr crank cam is. Bought mine at zip corvette. Seal up the cap with silicone and locktite the rotor screws should be good to go.
@@nunyabeeswax3061 most likely the Opti was bad (or ECM) and I was to the point that I was just done dealing with it. Now, the poor thing is sitting there waiting for me to get to work on an engine swap 😂
@@barneythedog977 shouldn't need to relearn unless you change out something like the TPS - cleaning the throttle body and then driving the car it should adjust on its own 👍
@@Amundred It is manual cable driven flappers, but the traction control thing made me worried. I cleaned it, it was a dirty as hell mess. Ran fine but while I am doing the water pump install, new sparks and wires I might was well clean the throttle body too! These things are hard to work on! So tight in the bay. I cleaned my wifes 2008 Silverado and got the awful 3500 rpm idle, I panicked! Had to run it to the shop and my local guy was kind enough to fix it no charge. He later got some good pay off us lol. I was going to do an engine plug drain, but wussed out, the sensor/plug was so tight i would need a breaker bar, I figured its 30 years of being on there, I will instead do 3 or four half ass just the radiator flush and over that time get most of the crap out and newer fluid in.
@@Amundred Man the easy spark wires job was f awful in reality. I have to remove pulleys as well for the driver side opti. Some damn mouse chewed on the old wires, did not ruin it but you can see the metal wires on the outer part. NGK wires now, nice blue color too, and the pass. side back plug was a nightmare. I had to use a magnet stick to lower the socket and plug into the area and a screw driver to push it to the hole, then I barely got my hands down there and after burning thumbs and forearms muscles wearing out, i finally got it the seat lol I WONT BE LOL AT YOUR VIDEO WHERE YOU TRIED TO DO THE EXHAUST AS MUCH NOW, NOW ITS MORE PITTY FOR YA HAHA
Hey there! I decided to go ahead and swap out the LT1 - for something...still trying to decide if I want to try to stuff a big block in there, and LS, small block...just kind of gave up on the LT1
You can easily do the injectors in 1 hr. Better than paying a shop and you will know instantly after the repair. Pretty much only thing not done!👍 I can give you tips if you go that route. I bought them from fuel injection connection in Georgia. Bad injectors describe your issues too. Nothing special about doing injectors, plug/play.
@@Amundred Awesome, yeah I meant time for doing video and the amount of crud cleanup different for everyone. What was the outcome?? Did your new ones reuse the clips on top rail? Bosch doesn't use them at all. Plus I told you the trix! 😂🤣😃💣💥 90's tech was nice, plug/play!
You don't need antiseize past the first 3 threads on the plugs, to much and excess will make it's way to the electrode and ground out the plug! Good update👍 Did you cut out the swear words? At least your idler pulley is not stuck on like mine🙄
from my experience the after market optisparks last 3 years maximum regardless of the brand name. the GM OEM optispark last 10 years or untill coolant or water gets inside and shorts them out. check the crankshaft sensor (95-96) located behind the harmonic balancer, the original sensors wear out, are often damaged by road rocks or the wires get broken, then check the knock sensors, if they are the originals I would replace them both. just my opinion.
Well, technically it runs. It starts perfectly. Have you replaced the injectors?? If you have originals, they are junk by now and you did show under load is when the engine stumbles. The old style injectors are junk,lol. The Bosch 3 is a direct upgrade. Very simple. Did you check for the unnecessary pin in the aftermarket opti harness?🤔
Yeah, pin for the Opti matched. I have injectors on the list for the next thing for the parts cannon...and then the only other thing that it could be in the parts category is the Cats
@@geneyus6411 yeah, I may just order a set of the Long Tube Headers that I wanted for the car now and have them ready to install after the injectors! 😂
Ideas: 1. Your timing advance is off. When you try to accelerate, you are dumping fuel in but the spark needs to advance to accommodate the extra fuel. 2. Clogged fuel filter 3. Optispark was not installed correctly and isn't reading the piston's position. So it is firing when it shouldn't. Again the timing. On old style distributors, you could manually turn the distributor to advance or retard the timing. Since on your car the timing signal is coming from the computer, (and I assume the computer is sending that correctly) then the holes in the optispark aren't firing at the right time because the optical pickup "sees" the holes at the wrong time and causes firing at the wrong time.
New fuel system (pump replaced, filter replaced regulator replaced) and the exact same issue with 3 different Optispark Distributors (Original, Petra and OEM replacement)
I have chased this down to every little thing that it could possibly be (aside from ECM replacement) and even checked head gaskets, vacuum, O2 sensors, TP Sensor, IAC, Throttle Body gaskets...and so much more 🥺
@@Amundred Understood. Actually, I own a 1992 C4, and it has issues also. I forgot to thank you for the video you did on installing injectors. It helped me because today I installed new injectors and it is acting weird. Tomorrow I am going to purge the air from the fuel rails. I think that's why it's not idling or running right now. I also got an H34 message on my display when jumping the OBD.
@@Amundred can you tell me what the little round black fan like thing that's on the drivers side under the headlight that makes wierd noise? And will or could it make my car run bad and can I delete it?
@@mrdeanv4414 that is the air pump for the emissions recirculation system thing. You can delete it...unless you have emissions testing to pass. You will want to either plug the hose going to the exhaust manifold, or delete the system directly on the manifolds as well. I am not sure if you will get a check engine light or not if that system is removed.
Many years ago I had a 1956 Chevy that had a similar problem it tuned out to be a flat spot on the cam replaced cam and no more problem I like your video keep it up thanks
I'm having the same problem you are. I just keep dumping money into it and it still does the same thing. Lmao. All that's left is injectors or cats. At least it'll be like new when I finally fix it
I am literally down to those things as options...going with injectors next (ordered today) and if that doesn't do it, ripping out stock manifolds and cats and going with headers and straight pipes! 😂
My wife is ready to kill me I think.lol
To be honest, all those items probably needed replacing being 25 yrs+ old!💣💥
Worth it in my opinion $$$
@@geneyus6411 100%
@@Amundred Part number PT1742 to fix that old crusty 4 pin alternator connector. Comes with protective boot!
What's a good set of spark plug wires for the LT1 engine? I see all these brands and I'm to sure which ones to get!
If you want a standard, OE style wire set, AC Delco
amzn.to/3NcIGa2
If you are looking for something a little more custom color wise (will likely not fit stock clips/wire separators):
amzn.to/3qw7pwM
Wire separators:
amzn.to/3MRajnq
do you have a video on fuel senor replacement on 1994 c4 corvette
Are you talking about the Fuel Sender? You could basically follow the fuel pump video and when you pull out the sending unit, just replace the unit with a new one.
th-cam.com/video/_DNAaBsaJ2w/w-d-xo.html
Did you use anti gasket maker seal or just the flat fiber gaskets that the water pump AC delco kit I bought came with. I have seen Chris Fix and he covered his gaskets, but to me I wonder is that over kill. ONCE AGAIN you literally have done a video covering exactly where I am at. 1995 LT1, I am full draining the coolant pulling engine plugs and running fresh water, replace pump, thermostat and new sparks and wires and filling up. Thanks for the help
@@barneythedog977 I only used a spray adhesive to hold the gaskets in place while I mounted them.. Mm I did not use the RTC gasket stuff
@@Amundred Bro you are literally the best at replying and helping on here. I take it your all sealed up tight. I am going to not use the extra stuff and go with the brand new gaskets doing what they are made to do. Thanks!
@@barneythedog977 yup...it sealed up great with no issues! And thanks for the kind words!
@@Amundred Credit where credit is do!
Great info! I am looking forward to getting the Vet back up and rocking!
Have you replaced the ECM module?
I will be replacing the ECU. I honestly had been leaning towards that for awhile 👍
I have 2 95 vettes been through a few optis and petris is the best so far for me and misfire after warmup was a classic opti failure symptom for me.also your vette takes a while to start up should be real quick the quikest of any car i had cuz the opti reads exactly where thr crank cam is. Bought mine at zip corvette. Seal up the cap with silicone and locktite the rotor screws should be good to go.
@@nunyabeeswax3061 most likely the Opti was bad (or ECM) and I was to the point that I was just done dealing with it. Now, the poor thing is sitting there waiting for me to get to work on an engine swap 😂
Yes
How about injectors????
Have a video where I swap out injectors 👍
th-cam.com/video/CVwCoblMpMc/w-d-xo.html
ANyone know if my 95 has to be relearned if I clean the dirty throttle body???
Thanks!
@@barneythedog977 shouldn't need to relearn unless you change out something like the TPS - cleaning the throttle body and then driving the car it should adjust on its own 👍
@@Amundred It is manual cable driven flappers, but the traction control thing made me worried. I cleaned it, it was a dirty as hell mess. Ran fine but while I am doing the water pump install, new sparks and wires I might was well clean the throttle body too! These things are hard to work on! So tight in the bay. I cleaned my wifes 2008 Silverado and got the awful 3500 rpm idle, I panicked! Had to run it to the shop and my local guy was kind enough to fix it no charge. He later got some good pay off us lol. I was going to do an engine plug drain, but wussed out, the sensor/plug was so tight i would need a breaker bar, I figured its 30 years of being on there, I will instead do 3 or four half ass just the radiator flush and over that time get most of the crap out and newer fluid in.
@@barneythedog977 haha...yeah...working on these is not "easy" because of the space limitations and having everything so hard to get to! 😂
@@Amundred Man the easy spark wires job was f awful in reality. I have to remove pulleys as well for the driver side opti. Some damn mouse chewed on the old wires, did not ruin it but you can see the metal wires on the outer part. NGK wires now, nice blue color too, and the pass. side back plug was a nightmare. I had to use a magnet stick to lower the socket and plug into the area and a screw driver to push it to the hole, then I barely got my hands down there and after burning thumbs and forearms muscles wearing out, i finally got it the seat lol I WONT BE LOL AT YOUR VIDEO WHERE YOU TRIED TO DO THE EXHAUST AS MUCH NOW, NOW ITS MORE PITTY FOR YA HAHA
@@barneythedog977 haha... Yeah man...thanks for that 😂
Hey man, any update? Did you ever find the fix?
Hey there! I decided to go ahead and swap out the LT1 - for something...still trying to decide if I want to try to stuff a big block in there, and LS, small block...just kind of gave up on the LT1
@@Amundred oh damn, I wasn't expecting that. I think I may have a similar issue and I'm really hoping not having to swap the entire engine.
You can easily do the injectors in 1 hr.
Better than paying a shop and you will know instantly after the repair.
Pretty much only thing not done!👍
I can give you tips if you go that route.
I bought them from fuel injection connection in Georgia.
Bad injectors describe your issues too.
Nothing special about doing injectors, plug/play.
The injectors actually only took maybe 30 minutes? It was surprisingly easy to do them!
@@Amundred Awesome, yeah I meant time for doing video and the amount of crud cleanup different for everyone.
What was the outcome??
Did your new ones reuse the clips on top rail? Bosch doesn't use them at all.
Plus I told you the trix!
😂🤣😃💣💥
90's tech was nice, plug/play!
@@geneyus6411 th-cam.com/video/CVwCoblMpMc/w-d-xo.html
@@Amundred I'm thinking the outcome was excellent or you would have said something negative!😳
You don't need antiseize past the first 3 threads on the plugs, to much and excess will make it's way to the electrode and ground out the plug!
Good update👍
Did you cut out the swear words?
At least your idler pulley is not stuck on like mine🙄
haha..yeah...i cut out the initial reaction lol
@@Amundred Should leave it in,
Inquring minds wants to know/see!😡
BS never seen it happen if over 40 years turning wrenches
from my experience the after market optisparks last 3 years maximum regardless of the brand name. the GM OEM optispark last 10 years or untill coolant or water gets inside and shorts them out. check the crankshaft sensor (95-96) located behind the harmonic balancer, the original sensors wear out, are often damaged by road rocks or the wires get broken, then check the knock sensors, if they are the originals I would replace them both. just my opinion.
Replaced knock sensors already! Will probably end up needing to replace the Opti again at some point during all of this
I do have a 94 so no Crank sensor to worry about
Well, technically it runs. It starts perfectly. Have you replaced the injectors?? If you have originals, they are junk by now and you did show under load is when the engine stumbles. The old style injectors are junk,lol. The Bosch 3 is a direct upgrade. Very simple.
Did you check for the unnecessary pin in the aftermarket opti harness?🤔
Yeah, pin for the Opti matched. I have injectors on the list for the next thing for the parts cannon...and then the only other thing that it could be in the parts category is the Cats
@@Amundred Awesome , you'll have a new car when done!👍plus you got to do some videos that might help others👌
@@geneyus6411 yeah, I may just order a set of the Long Tube Headers that I wanted for the car now and have them ready to install after the injectors! 😂
@@Amundred Awesome will sound like a beast with your muffler deletes.
Make sure you get bosch 3 and not the original junker types!
@@geneyus6411 what are your thoughts on the Accel injectors?
Ideas: 1. Your timing advance is off. When you try to accelerate, you are dumping fuel in but the spark needs to advance to accommodate the extra fuel.
2. Clogged fuel filter
3. Optispark was not installed correctly and isn't reading the piston's position. So it is firing when it shouldn't. Again the timing. On old style distributors, you could manually turn the distributor to advance or retard the timing. Since on your car the timing signal is coming from the computer, (and I assume the computer is sending that correctly) then the holes in the optispark aren't firing at the right time because the optical pickup "sees" the holes at the wrong time and causes firing at the wrong time.
New fuel system (pump replaced, filter replaced regulator replaced) and the exact same issue with 3 different Optispark Distributors (Original, Petra and OEM replacement)
I have chased this down to every little thing that it could possibly be (aside from ECM replacement) and even checked head gaskets, vacuum, O2 sensors, TP Sensor, IAC, Throttle Body gaskets...and so much more 🥺
@@Amundred Understood. Actually, I own a 1992 C4, and it has issues also. I forgot to thank you for the video you did on installing injectors. It helped me because today I installed new injectors and it is acting weird. Tomorrow I am going to purge the air from the fuel rails. I think that's why it's not idling or running right now. I also got an H34 message on my display when jumping the OBD.
I just looked up the trouble code for me, and it is the MAF sensor (Code 34) How is your MAF sensor?
@@moodberry brand new! 😂 Replaced that as a part of the process as well 😂
I always Enjoy your videos... but I think the new spark plugs you went with are for a Iron head not an aluminum... you might want to check on that
According to NGK website, TR55GP is the plug for a 1994 Corvette LT1
@@Amundred Ok Bud... I'm sure I wrong but they did look like the ones for the heads...
@@Amundred can you tell me what the little round black fan like thing that's on the drivers side under the headlight that makes wierd noise? And will or could it make my car run bad and can I delete it?
@@mrdeanv4414 that is the air pump for the emissions recirculation system thing. You can delete it...unless you have emissions testing to pass. You will want to either plug the hose going to the exhaust manifold, or delete the system directly on the manifolds as well. I am not sure if you will get a check engine light or not if that system is removed.
You don't show the procedure for removing the spark plugs. Lots of stuff has to be dismounted.
The only stuff that really needed to be moved if I recall correctly was the ASR on the Driver's side
Many years ago I had a 1956 Chevy that had a similar problem it tuned out to be a flat spot on the cam replaced cam and no more problem I like your video keep it up thanks
Yeah...I wonder if that may end up ultimately being the problem!
Fuel injectors
I had high hopes it would run 😟
Yeah...me too!!!
Talking too much talking no work showing people want to see how to get them job done
Thanks for the feedback...but this isn't a strictly how-to channel. If you see my.other content this is a channel where I just have a good time! 😂
Sensors on the air intake…🤷🏾♂️