Great tutorial on clip weights. You always treat us with very useful techniques. I would love a math class on dropper depth formulas. Setback plus speed plus weight, etc. Thanks for sharing any info.
I just bought these about an hour before you posted this video! Was looking for the “how-to” video on these and I must have thunk-it into reality. Good info! Hitting a Oregon coastal lake in 2 weeks and wanted to pull some 2.0 maglips for trout or whatever I can find.
I used these with the Team Catfish weight slides to make a th-cam.com/users/postUgkxdmsDj7fQXe77DC0l7P7ua8B3PiESUubM Carolina rig and they were perfect for the ponds I fish. I have also used them to make 3 way rigs and these work perfectly. Haven't had any issues with them snagging in rocks or in weeds yet.
Literally started using the Scotty clips like this yesterday. Because I only run one pole on the down rigger because the lake I fish locally is 20ft or so. I only did it because I remembered you doing this on your Kokanee across America trip. I’ll be ordering some of these for sure.
Took your teachings out on flaming gorge this am by adding a one oz snap weight to my intermediate sink fly line and caught 5 over 20”. In less than an hour, until I got blown off. Thanks so much!!
Hit Timothy Lake in Oregon Saturday. Applied a lot of your tips, so thank you! It was my first time trolling for kokanee/trout and I definitely learned a lot. I did purchase the snap weights and I am not sure if they benefitted me. The loss of tension seemed to lose fish once I removed the weight. Being that I was solo also made it more difficult with the trolling motor etc. I would put it in gear and GPS said I was going 1.9...no added throttle, just in gear. I also learned that I need to not let the dodger come to the surface...I lost fish that way as well. They seemed to pop off due to the drag. I think I am going to try sliders next. Red and green hoochies worked well. I used between 1-3 ounces with 100 ft setback. All in all it was a great day. 3 8 inch kokes and 1 11 incher. 1 12inch rainbow trout. I don't think I have seen any of your videos go to Timothy... you aren't missing much with the koke size there...Seems to be a lot of fish in that lake...
Great information, and the scenery is just beautiful, I will get the snap weights, they will make it so much faster to switch between trolling at depth, and flat line also no knots and half the tackle
Ordered a set because I’m intrigued. Having many kids and rookie fisherman on our boats this is a constant battle. Heading to Chelan Tuesday and will give this method a try with my buddies. I’ll give an honest report after. Thanks for sharing Tyler!
I use the same snap weights for trolling. Absolutely love them. I like your idea with duo-lock snaps for quick change out of the weights. I'll give that a shot. Thanks for the great content.
Hi Tyler, went to my local sporting goods outfitters for gear and hoping to find the snap on clip you’re talking about… The sales guy had no idea what I was talking about and basically thought I had no idea what I was talking about.. Hello women fish too, a lot! We are part of the fishing community also.. I really appreciate your channel for the education you provided to Everyone! Okay rant over.. I buy the clips from your Amazon site..
So I put these snap weights to the test at Chelan twice. I absolutely love them out the back of my boat. Ease and fight of fish after taking them off makes it more fun. That being said, running 6 rods out of my 21’ Columbia with them all snap weighted caused a few major tangles. Frustration hit me quick so I went back to the standard lead drop method with no more issues. I did keep them out the back but my others were slider lead with 3’ bumper to the dodger. Two rookies in the boat and not a tangle after I made the switch back with my upper 4 rods. I will use this snap weight method when I’m by myself or just out the back. But it is more fun to fight a fish without lead on the line for sure.
@@spiltmilt Absolutely! I’m leaving them in my boat because of the ease and added fight you get to feel. Didn’t lose as many as I thought I would on the transfer either. Thanks Tyler
Interesting. Currently I really like the dropper weights because I feel like I can drop them down really quickly 45 to 60 ft; There's no added step between fish of having to clip the weight back in. I don't believe I have tangled in a long time either; I have more issues when I'm flatlining. I'll have to give it a try and see what it's all about.
Good info as always! I prefer redi-rig instant downriggers with 2-4oz torpedo divers. I run a 4' leader ahead of dodger, micro swivel to main line with a bead above to stop weight from sliding down to dodger. No tangles yet... lol
Hey Ty, Have you ever found a chart or system that works well for determining the depth of your lure when using snap weights? I know that a lot of factors come into play, like speed, amount of weight, and how much line is let out. Thanks
I've seen many and I think most all are just copies of each. The general rule I've used is you get 10' down for every ounce at 1.5 mph with a 100' of 10 lb mono out. That changes dramatically depending on speed.
If you use 6oz snap weight and don’t go faster than 1.2mph actually you can see your weight in the depth finder.
ปีที่แล้ว +1
After losing a few clips I ended up using them to clip a sliding weight. That way i just unclip them and let them slide down to the fish :) i also struggle a lot to find the right depth. And i think most of the time i get skunk is bexase i was not able to target appropriately. 😅
Hi, love your content and thank you very much for all the information. Question about the snap weights vs the instant downrigger by redirig you did a video on last year. When you only have a paddle kayak or canoe do you think the instant downrigger is a better option? That way you don't get slack in your line like you do unclipping the snap weight?
I do think so conceptually at the same time it takes some skill getting the right tension set on the redirig and on several occasions I'd end up having to unclip the line anyways.
It would be interesting to put the snap weights on the down rigger and see if you get the same variance as running them directly off a rod. I’m curious if the short & stiff down rigger “rod” would perform the same as your dropper rig or if there’s still a noticeable difference
After watching this video many times, and others of yours about snap weights, I've pulled the trigger! Purchased from your link. I have a couple questions. 1 is there any rhyme or reason, when deciding a set back length, other than long enough to avoid tangles? 2 when calculating depth, do you need to use line length to the Canon ball, instead of to the lure? I'm assuming the Canon ball, but maybe there's something I'm not considering. Hmmm, that's it, for now! I'll be ordering a hat and depth charts from you very soon!
This video addresses your first question: th-cam.com/video/p_UySKQVfBQ/w-d-xo.html As for weight its calculated from the cannonball to the reel not the lure
Thank you for the information. One thing I’m confused about is how do I know how deep I am? I understand that different weights are going to cause different deaths based off of amount of line at the back. I’m just still not sure how to calculate that. Could you possibly do a video explaining that or is that too elementary? Maybe you could do some of your cool drawings
Was using 2oz snapweight 50ft back and 44ft down, and the wife was using a 2oz slider weight 44ft down for cut throat trout. I must have lost 8/10 fish, and she lost none. I switched up to a slider weight and lost none after. I'm guessing with all that extra mono line behind my snapweight, I wasn't getting a good hookup with all that line play/flex.
Was that Detroit ? Another awesome viedio !!! Thank you for sharing this with us. They are all that I use in my boat. My sliders are in "semi retirement "....😉
Excellent content as always! Question: Does using the clip-on (40 ft back, then add the clip and drop another 30 ft) vs. slider weight (at 70 ft), provide the same overall depth or does that change the overall depth?
@@spiltmilt thank you! I was looking for some info on if it counted after or before the weight. Now I know I was trolling too shallow for Kokanee because I was counting the 20 ft in front. Will switch to 30-40 and count after. Thanks!!
Love your videos. How do you recommend pulling the rod out the holder? Looks like you pull a slight tension when pulling the rod and then the slow Kokanee reel in
Found your videos very helpful! Thank you for sharing. One question, if your dodger is 40 feet behind the weight, would it swing up or go deeper than the weight at your trolling speed? I troll with a motor and down rigger, I normally let about 100 feet out before I clip the line, I found it very hard to estimate where my lure’s at. Any tips? Thanks in advance.
So you would snap on your weight after you let out 40 feet of line? Then you would drop it another 30 feet if you plan on catching them at that dept? Thanks
I have not and not because I don't think they would work but most salmon fisheries I participate in are combat fisheries. I like to have the minimum amount of line out so running the cannonball close to the flasher makes sense. Also tangling when dropping back giant 11" flashers is less of an issue.
Nice, I will go buy some snap weights! Another question, maybe you have a video you can point me too, or have an answer. So, how do you know how far down to drop down with snap weight on? For example if youu see fish on the finder at 50', how much line do I need to know to put out, or 60' or 70' or whatever depth?
There are a lot of variables at play from troll speed, to line out, line diameter, etc. My general rule is 10-15' of drop for every ounce trolling at 1.5 mph with 100' of 10 lb mono out.
I literally just ordered some Free Slide rigs this morning. lol Do you let out another 60 or 100 feet of line after attaching the weight to achieve the desired depth?
@@spiltmiltSo it’s not a target a specific depth system like a downrigger or dropper weights? Just try different weights and line length till you find what works?
Are you still using the down-rigger ? Or do you primarily use snap weights? Also what size weights are you using for the snap weights? I’ve been watching a lot of your videos but it seems like you’ve improved or modified your strategy and I’ve been buying things after watching your videos but it seems like as I purchase something the next video you’re doing something different. Could you please break down why you’d use the down-rigger vs snap weights and what size weights you use and do they change for different depths? Thanks !
Got any tips for snap weights with paddle kayaks? I just picked up a fishing kayak, I’m struggling with letting out line while moving forward. It’s not a big deal for straight lures, i can cast them then get going, then open the bail while paddling. But with dodger rigs and especially snap weights on shallower lakes, I’m not sure how to get out without hitting bottom.
Have you watched this video. I employ snap weights with paddling for Kokanee because it reduces tangling issues and I also recommend reels with a flipping switch
@@spiltmilt yeah I watched this one all the way through to see if you mentioned hand paddling at all. I can see it being much easier if you have some depth to work with, but if I’m fishing 10-30’ lakes it seems difficult to get much length behind the boat when you’re hand paddling, even with a thumb lever reel. I know you mostly do foot peddle, at least all the videos I remember; I was just wondering if you had much experience with shallower water and hand paddles.
@@scottulbrich5376 unfortunately dodgers just plane on the surface if you don’t use at least a little weight. And sometimes the fish only want something at a specific depth, nothing more or less.
I have found that those particular Amazon snap-ons like to slide down my line. I much prefer the Cabela’s Advanced Angler snap-ons. I did a video of them awhile back in case you’re interested. 😊
Not a fan. I took my grandson fishing and lost my first weight when he reeled it in too fast. The second popped off mu pole immediately after. Now I just loop the weights inline. they stay put.
Great tutorial on clip weights. You always treat us with very useful techniques. I would love a math class on dropper depth formulas. Setback plus speed plus weight, etc. Thanks for sharing any info.
This
Two thumbs up for the blooper at the end! Thanks for showing us your human side. 💪🏻
I just bought these about an hour before you posted this video! Was looking for the “how-to” video on these and I must have thunk-it into reality. Good info! Hitting a Oregon coastal lake in 2 weeks and wanted to pull some 2.0 maglips for trout or whatever I can find.
First time today using the snap weights - thanks to you, a game changer. Thank you.
I used these with the Team Catfish weight slides to make a th-cam.com/users/postUgkxdmsDj7fQXe77DC0l7P7ua8B3PiESUubM Carolina rig and they were perfect for the ponds I fish. I have also used them to make 3 way rigs and these work perfectly. Haven't had any issues with them snagging in rocks or in weeds yet.
Literally started using the Scotty clips like this yesterday. Because I only run one pole on the down rigger because the lake I fish locally is 20ft or so. I only did it because I remembered you doing this on your Kokanee across America trip. I’ll be ordering some of these for sure.
Took your teachings out on flaming gorge this am by adding a one oz snap weight to my intermediate sink fly line and caught 5 over 20”. In less than an hour, until I got blown off. Thanks so much!!
great info! I use snap weights as well, it was suggested to me since I dont have down riggers on my kayak.
Hit Timothy Lake in Oregon Saturday. Applied a lot of your tips, so thank you! It was my first time trolling for kokanee/trout and I definitely learned a lot. I did purchase the snap weights and I am not sure if they benefitted me. The loss of tension seemed to lose fish once I removed the weight. Being that I was solo also made it more difficult with the trolling motor etc. I would put it in gear and GPS said I was going 1.9...no added throttle, just in gear. I also learned that I need to not let the dodger come to the surface...I lost fish that way as well. They seemed to pop off due to the drag. I think I am going to try sliders next. Red and green hoochies worked well. I used between 1-3 ounces with 100 ft setback. All in all it was a great day. 3 8 inch kokes and 1 11 incher. 1 12inch rainbow trout. I don't think I have seen any of your videos go to Timothy... you aren't missing much with the koke size there...Seems to be a lot of fish in that lake...
Yes learning to maintain tension when releasing snap weights is key.
I'll be giving this method a try at Billy Clapp next week. Love your videos, happy to see your viewership increasing.
Great information, and the scenery is just beautiful, I will get the snap weights, they will make it so much faster to switch between trolling at depth, and flat line also no knots and half the tackle
Yup makes life a lot easier
Good point
Ordered a set because I’m intrigued. Having many kids and rookie fisherman on our boats this is a constant battle. Heading to Chelan Tuesday and will give this method a try with my buddies. I’ll give an honest report after. Thanks for sharing Tyler!
I use the same snap weights for trolling. Absolutely love them. I like your idea with duo-lock snaps for quick change out of the weights. I'll give that a shot. Thanks for the great content.
Hi Tyler, went to my local sporting goods outfitters for gear and hoping to find the snap on clip you’re talking about… The sales guy had no idea what I was talking about and basically thought I had no idea what I was talking about.. Hello women fish too, a lot! We are part of the fishing community also..
I really appreciate your channel for the education you provided to Everyone! Okay rant over..
I buy the clips from your Amazon site..
The clip or snap weights actually originate out of the Great Lakes Walleye fishery. Most anglers here in the PNW won't be familiar with them.
So I put these snap weights to the test at Chelan twice. I absolutely love them out the back of my boat. Ease and fight of fish after taking them off makes it more fun. That being said, running 6 rods out of my 21’ Columbia with them all snap weighted caused a few major tangles. Frustration hit me quick so I went back to the standard lead drop method with no more issues. I did keep them out the back but my others were slider lead with 3’ bumper to the dodger. Two rookies in the boat and not a tangle after I made the switch back with my upper 4 rods. I will use this snap weight method when I’m by myself or just out the back. But it is more fun to fight a fish without lead on the line for sure.
Makes sense certainly work great for certain situations
@@spiltmilt Absolutely! I’m leaving them in my boat because of the ease and added fight you get to feel. Didn’t lose as many as I thought I would on the transfer either. Thanks Tyler
They are easy to drop, that's for sure. But they sure do give you so many more options. Very universal.
Great!. I was waiting for this one. I want to tell you about my work experience with the WDFW. But, not here.
Never ordered something so fast haha thanks for the tip.
Interesting. Currently I really like the dropper weights because I feel like I can drop them down really quickly 45 to 60 ft; There's no added step between fish of having to clip the weight back in. I don't believe I have tangled in a long time either; I have more issues when I'm flatlining.
I'll have to give it a try and see what it's all about.
Definitely going to give these a try have you tried those Dave tangle free weights in 2oz or 3
Awesome getting some.
Good info as always! I prefer redi-rig instant downriggers with 2-4oz torpedo divers. I run a 4' leader ahead of dodger, micro swivel to main line with a bead above to stop weight from sliding down to dodger. No tangles yet... lol
Great video
What rods and reels were you using? Thanks
Awesome for the tips just learning to troll in my single man pontoon.
Loved the blooper!!! Thanks for the laugh lol
Hey Ty,
Have you ever found a chart or system that works well for determining the depth of your lure when using snap weights? I know that a lot of factors come into play, like speed, amount of weight, and how much line is let out.
Thanks
I've seen many and I think most all are just copies of each. The general rule I've used is you get 10' down for every ounce at 1.5 mph with a 100' of 10 lb mono out. That changes dramatically depending on speed.
If you use 6oz snap weight and don’t go faster than 1.2mph actually you can see your weight in the depth finder.
After losing a few clips I ended up using them to clip a sliding weight. That way i just unclip them and let them slide down to the fish :) i also struggle a lot to find the right depth. And i think most of the time i get skunk is bexase i was not able to target appropriately. 😅
Hi, love your content and thank you very much for all the information. Question about the snap weights vs the instant downrigger by redirig you did a video on last year. When you only have a paddle kayak or canoe do you think the instant downrigger is a better option? That way you don't get slack in your line like you do unclipping the snap weight?
I do think so conceptually at the same time it takes some skill getting the right tension set on the redirig and on several occasions I'd end up having to unclip the line anyways.
@@spiltmilt thank you!!!!
May i also now if you have a video showing the type and set up on your kayak rod holders you use on your trolling?
I cover that here th-cam.com/video/1Jihrx7XAZY/w-d-xo.html You can use the code HICKS10 for a discount
Do you have a video on the math on weights/ depth / speed / line out to figure how deep you want to go
No too many variables
@@spiltmilt I can respect that lol
It would be interesting to put the snap weights on the down rigger and see if you get the same variance as running them directly off a rod. I’m curious if the short & stiff down rigger “rod” would perform the same as your dropper rig or if there’s still a noticeable difference
With a long enought setback it would probably be very similar
Great stuff! 👍
After watching this video many times, and others of yours about snap weights, I've pulled the trigger! Purchased from your link. I have a couple questions.
1 is there any rhyme or reason, when deciding a set back length, other than long enough to avoid tangles?
2 when calculating depth, do you need to use line length to the Canon ball, instead of to the lure? I'm assuming the Canon ball, but maybe there's something I'm not considering. Hmmm, that's it, for now! I'll be ordering a hat and depth charts from you very soon!
This video addresses your first question: th-cam.com/video/p_UySKQVfBQ/w-d-xo.html
As for weight its calculated from the cannonball to the reel not the lure
Yep, I watched that video next lol. Thank you Good Sir!
Can you tell us what size the duo locks are pls
Size 7 or 8's is what I use
Do you ever use them with the yellow side planers?
All the time for Walleye
I am wondering on the duo snaps are those a #6?
Really wonder exactly what size duo lock is being used? I have to mail order everything. Anyone know?
Thank you for the information. One thing I’m confused about is how do I know how deep I am? I understand that different weights are going to cause different deaths based off of amount of line at the back. I’m just still not sure how to calculate that. Could you possibly do a video explaining that or is that too elementary? Maybe you could do some of your cool drawings
Was using 2oz snapweight 50ft back and 44ft down, and the wife was using a 2oz slider weight 44ft down for cut throat trout. I must have lost 8/10 fish, and she lost none. I switched up to a slider weight and lost none after. I'm guessing with all that extra mono line behind my snapweight, I wasn't getting a good hookup with all that line play/flex.
I usually lose more fish with a slider as the weight is closer to the hook and fish and it makes it easier to leverage them out
Another question how can you tell if you are trolling at the correct speed
?
I have GPS fishfinder which gives me speed
Hey thanks for the video! Was wondering what you use for your microphone? Appreciate the top notch audio quality even when on the water!
This is what I use. They are amazing and have a great battery life 5-6 hrs depending on air temp amzn.to/42J7ICH
Was that Detroit ?
Another awesome viedio !!!
Thank you for sharing this with us.
They are all that I use in my boat. My sliders are in "semi retirement "....😉
Green Peter
@@spiltmilt 👍
Does it matter if it is a pyramid weight? Does it have to be cannonball for drag purposes, I guess?
Probably will run a bit shallower
Excellent content as always! Question: Does using the clip-on (40 ft back, then add the clip and drop another 30 ft) vs. slider weight (at 70 ft), provide the same overall depth or does that change the overall depth?
No it doesn’t. The depth is influenced by how much line u let out after the snap weight is applied
@@spiltmilt thank you! I was looking for some info on if it counted after or before the weight. Now I know I was trolling too shallow for Kokanee because I was counting the 20 ft in front. Will switch to 30-40 and count after. Thanks!!
Using snap weights, can you explain how you determine the depth of your flasher and hoochie?
Math
@@spiltmilt That's helpful!
I've answered this question many times on this video. Scroll a bit.
Love your videos. How do you recommend pulling the rod out the holder? Looks like you pull a slight tension when pulling the rod and then the slow Kokanee reel in
Yes I try to keep pressure on at all times
Found your videos very helpful! Thank you for sharing. One question, if your dodger is 40 feet behind the weight, would it swing up or go deeper than the weight at your trolling speed? I troll with a motor and down rigger, I normally let about 100 feet out before I clip the line, I found it very hard to estimate where my lure’s at. Any tips? Thanks in advance.
It all depends on the dodgers design and speed.
Any reason this wouldn't work for chinook at the Ghost Hole using 8,10 or 12 oz? seems smart.
Should work
So you would snap on your weight after you let out 40 feet of line? Then you would drop it another 30 feet if you plan on catching them at that dept? Thanks
Correct
Gotta try these out. Have you used them for salmon trolling also or just trout and kokanee?
I have not and not because I don't think they would work but most salmon fisheries I participate in are combat fisheries. I like to have the minimum amount of line out so running the cannonball close to the flasher makes sense. Also tangling when dropping back giant 11" flashers is less of an issue.
Nice, I will go buy some snap weights!
Another question, maybe you have a video you can point me too, or have an answer. So, how do you know how far down to drop down with snap weight on? For example if youu see fish on the finder at 50', how much line do I need to know to put out, or 60' or 70' or whatever depth?
There are a lot of variables at play from troll speed, to line out, line diameter, etc. My general rule is 10-15' of drop for every ounce trolling at 1.5 mph with 100' of 10 lb mono out.
what common weight use on this snap on?
I use 1 to 5 oz cannonball weights depending on the depth I want
@@spiltmilt Thank you. May i also know the type and components of your kayak rod holder set up please?
This video covers that description in the link th-cam.com/video/1Jihrx7XAZY/w-d-xo.html
what size dual lock snap is it ?
7 or 8's should work
@@spiltmilt xclnt...thanks much. going to use this method rather than double stacking my downriggers
How do you calculate depth to get your lure at the depth desired?
Experience I suppose. I have a rough formula in my head that varies by speed, line out, and amount of lead
I literally just ordered some Free Slide rigs this morning. lol Do you let out another 60 or 100 feet of line after attaching the weight to achieve the desired depth?
You can let out as much line as you need to after you clip in.
@@spiltmiltSo it’s not a target a specific depth system like a downrigger or dropper weights? Just try different weights and line length till you find what works?
I target specific depths absolutely. Its not much different than droppers in that regard.
I see they mostly sell the snap weights in multi packs. Do you loose them a lot?
I’ve never lost one but my wife has a knack for losing them 😂
does that only work with mono?
Works fine with braid
Thanks for the info! Question for ya. With the 3 Oz how deap do you expect to get?
I was trolling at around 1.2 mph and with 60' of line out after I clipped in I was hitting around 27-30' deep
@@spiltmilt thank you very much! I am going to give it a try!
Are you still using the down-rigger ? Or do you primarily use snap weights? Also what size weights are you using for the snap weights? I’ve been watching a lot of your videos but it seems like you’ve improved or modified your strategy and I’ve been buying things after watching your videos but it seems like as I purchase something the next video you’re doing something different. Could you please break down why you’d use the down-rigger vs snap weights and what size weights you use and do they change for different depths? Thanks !
I use both. Weights vary from 1 to 5 oz depending on depths I am targeting. Generally 1 oz for every 10'.
How do you know how deep your rig is running?
Experience and math
Got any tips for snap weights with paddle kayaks? I just picked up a fishing kayak, I’m struggling with letting out line while moving forward. It’s not a big deal for straight lures, i can cast them then get going, then open the bail while paddling. But with dodger rigs and especially snap weights on shallower lakes, I’m not sure how to get out without hitting bottom.
Have you watched this video. I employ snap weights with paddling for Kokanee because it reduces tangling issues and I also recommend reels with a flipping switch
@@spiltmilt yeah I watched this one all the way through to see if you mentioned hand paddling at all. I can see it being much easier if you have some depth to work with, but if I’m fishing 10-30’ lakes it seems difficult to get much length behind the boat when you’re hand paddling, even with a thumb lever reel. I know you mostly do foot peddle, at least all the videos I remember; I was just wondering if you had much experience with shallower water and hand paddles.
Go faster 😅
30 feet seriously,you dont even need a weight then
@@scottulbrich5376 unfortunately dodgers just plane on the surface if you don’t use at least a little weight. And sometimes the fish only want something at a specific depth, nothing more or less.
Why can't I ever find the links when you say you'll post them " down below"?
If watching on a phone click on more right below the title next to the view count
@@spiltmilt thanx! Got it.
I have found that those particular Amazon snap-ons like to slide down my line. I much prefer the Cabela’s Advanced Angler snap-ons. I did a video of them awhile back in case you’re interested. 😊
I don’t have any line slide issues with these but I’ll check those out
@@spiltmilt th-cam.com/video/svMy5OZrpJM/w-d-xo.html
How do you know how deep you are?
Math and year's of experience
Not a fan. I took my grandson fishing and lost my first weight when he reeled it in too fast. The second popped off mu pole immediately after. Now I just loop the weights inline. they stay put.
Literally impossible to lose if used correctly.
Merwin
wow, that reservoir looking good compared to what it was 10-12 years ago
Too bad they plan to drain it by August
How do you know how deep you are?
Geometry and math I'm working a reference table to share
@@spiltmilt that will be a hit