one of the thing i learned a long time ago is that once a carb is set correctly if you have to touch the adjustments after that there is something else wrong. good video !!!
I really appreciate you taking the time to explain the troubleshooting process. This was a very helpful video to someone like myself. Thank you Mowermedic1.
Thanks for the excellent video and the step by step troubleshooting! I had the same symptoms here in Hungary. After your video I thought it was the gas cap with the built in breather, but in the end it was a clogged up fuel filter. Looked like mud on the screen. It runs like a charm now, saved me a couple $$$.
Holy crap thanks man!!! We’ve been trying to figure this issue out with our husqvarna leaf blowers for years. I think we’ve ended up replaceing the carbs each year. Idk how much money you just helped me save the company 😂 Edit: the adjustment screw was in the same location but was covered by a bit of hot glue or something. Had to drill through it to find the screw but it revs up great now
That video answered alot of questions for me. I have a little Homelite blower that does the same thing and I have turned every screw on the dang thing.
Excellent video having same issue with idle, never knew to remove the plastic plug on top and adjust since it would not adjust with the idle screw on the side, thanks for the great video and tips.
I like the way those echos are designed with the gas tank looking up all the time; mine is a troybilt and you have to turn it on the side to gas it up and then turn it the other way to use it. It is a nusance if you ask me.
I have an srm 230. The old carb does not have a plug in it for the low side adjustment. I even drilled into the brass/copper in the middle. What gives? Do some models not have a low side adjustment or am I just not going deep enough to remove plug? BTW my 230 was doing the exact same thing.
I've got a WYK on my Tanaka AST2000 electric start trimmer I found at the dump and I love it. It's like a model airplane carb. A lot of adjustability and good fuel management at part throttle. I don't think there's anything wrong with the carb. :)
I hade to replace the fuel tubes and the grommet that holds them in the fuel tank. One was cracked. My trimmer is doing what youv've demonstrated. The new tubes seem longer than the original ones. Could they not be sitting in the gas mixture? ie. not sucking up enough gas?
I run unleaded plus and 2 cycle oil Husqvarna HP. 20 years from my same trimmer(SRM210) no issues. Had a similar issue, cleaned the jet, made some adjustments... never had an issue with it since. A whole carb is $15 so it's not like it's gonna be a sticker shock. Use better quality fuel and not fall into the marketing fluff. Avoid regular unleaded, that stuff is already trash
Quick question I'm also a mechanic and have a lawn service what are your thoughts on the new stable fuel additive one stable is design for storage the other stable is for an additive for ethanol fuels for non-ethanol engines
I think you and I both know how to get that bog out of it brother! Drill a couple of 5/16 holes in between the exaust pipe mounting bolts and throw all that crap the EPA is molesting all are power equipment! All you have to do is take a look at a vintage chainsaw that you were able to adjust the carburetor on. And the intake hole was feeding enough air to make it run correctly! I can't say it any other way than, you can't save the planet and make horsepower performance with a 2-stroke engine! And I am pretty sure that we are all well aware that it's not the lawnmowers and the weedwackers or the chainsaws that are creating the global warming issues! But this i do know! And that is, You cannot restrict the exaust of a 2-stroke engine! The super heated exaust gasses are now coming out of the port when the piston cracks open at twice the speed of sound! And at WOT those explosions are back to back with no time for the spent charge just ahead of it to slow down enough to make it's way through a piece of brilliant to catch the hydrocarbons that gasoline gives off when burned, then the next delay is baffling and then yet another delay squeezing it's way through the spark arrestor screen! And then out a narrowed down exit hole before escaping the engine! Meanwhile making extra heat that gets absorbed through the metal at every one of those slow down points! And I live Portland Oregon where we are only about seventy miles away from the Pacific Ocean and it is 173 feet above sea level and we have all the oxygen you need to make a 2-stroke flat get with the program my friend! And you have got to be able to have the means to turn some jets to dial it in with that much good oxygen filled air to feed that fire that makes it all happen! Now wouldn't you agree? And of course everyone who brings their piece of equipment to me hear my personal equipment run, the next question I get asked is; Oh Wow! Can you make mine run like that? Because I never met a man who said; No! I don't want mine to run run that good! I would rather fight with trying to tune it with all this crap smothering it so as it will just barely run at all! Not even once have i heard that! 😉
I have a Champion 23cc trimmer and mine is bogging down exactly like yours. Unfortunately there are no adj screws. A replacement carb is hard to find in Canada.
Thanks for the great video. You gave some great tips and information Jeremy. I never new about the High adjustment needle on the side of that Carburetor or the low adjustment on the top can you put the plug bag in the top after your finished adjusting it?
all echos are cold blooded and don't try to run it WOT from a cold start because it'll live a short life. Turn it on and let it idle for 30sec to a minute.
Yooo boss, not sure how busy ya work day is for my enquire. Nz briggs cant get briggs 1000 pro series 223cc 25mm engine. Would you wanna send me a price plus ship?
If there are any engineers (real, not backyard!) that want to correct me, go ahead BUT: the issue as I understand it, is NOT the ethanol itself, but the fact that it is Hydroscopic (meaning it attracts water) so while sitting, water ( from humidity/ condensation) collects in the carb and THAT is what causes the corrosion. This is why I have learned to always run my small engines dry whenever they will be sitting for any length of time. Running tank empty is easy but takes time and wastes fuel, so I put in a fuel shut off valve, when there is room. Getting it running / warmed up and shut off fuel, let it die.. Some (old?) carbs actually had a little drain valve (or screw) on the float bowl, to get the last bit of gas out ;)
From where you stopped, I would try running without the vent filter on. Then test the fuel filter in the tank. Make sure the fuel return and intake are not reversed sounds dumb, but they will somewhat run with them reversed with a fuel level high enough for the return now acting as intake line to grab some juice. Next would be a leak down test of the crankcase to make sure we have proper pulses going to the carb a seal leaking can cause fuel delivery issues. Honestly I do not think this needs a new carb. The dirt you saw in the carb could be caused by the lines being swapped. Ethanol will attract water yes it will damage rubber but you rubber parts look good. Fuel attracts water also it idled well you were able to kill it by over richening the high side this is a fuel pace delivery problem not a rotten carburetor.
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 A sarcastic comment. The government decided to add ethanol to fuel to someone’s “benefit “. We now enjoy higher food and fuel prices and poorly performing engines. End of sarcasm. I enjoyed the video.
Boy oh Boy, I could sure get political here with the ethanol in the gas, but I won't as I am biting my tongue. Like I have said before, this is why I pay extra for the non-ethanol gas that I can get at Buc-ee's that goes in all my small engines. It is a small price to pay in the long run.
For starters, as always excellent video. I apologize for asking this question on this video but if you could either point me to correct video or answer my problem. I have a mini bike im trying to help a neighbor that is missing the carb to governor arm linkage. He installed a hard wire but installed it as the position the arm was at, meaning i dont think its even close to correct. Is there a way if unable to get that linkage to find the correct distance? Should i put carb at wot and move governor arm to certain point (which I don't know where that would be) and measure then? Sorry for such long post but not trusting diff opinons im getting. Thank you again
If you are here to read the pinned comment thread, it is no longer here I guess he decided to delete it
How did you notice the lean bog
one of the thing i learned a long time ago is that once a carb is set correctly if you have to touch the adjustments after that there is something else wrong. good video !!!
I really appreciate you taking the time to explain the troubleshooting process. This was a very helpful video to someone like myself. Thank you Mowermedic1.
Thanks for the excellent video and the step by step troubleshooting! I had the same symptoms here in Hungary. After your video I thought it was the gas cap with the built in breather, but in the end it was a clogged up fuel filter. Looked like mud on the screen. It runs like a charm now, saved me a couple $$$.
Holy crap thanks man!!! We’ve been trying to figure this issue out with our husqvarna leaf blowers for years. I think we’ve ended up replaceing the carbs each year. Idk how much money you just helped me save the company 😂
Edit: the adjustment screw was in the same location but was covered by a bit of hot glue or something. Had to drill through it to find the screw but it revs up great now
That video answered alot of questions for me. I have a little Homelite blower that does the same thing and I have turned every screw on the dang thing.
Fair play mate, you helped me fix my trimmer saving me the hassle of taking it to someone. Really appreciate the vid, here's to many more
Had the same problem and bought a new carb off Amazon for less than $20. Runs good now!
shouldn't the spark arrestor be checked first before troubling the mixture screw?
Brilliant - I learnt a lot.
Many thanks......all the way from London !
That ethanol is crap for anything small engine love your channel. You say it the way it is Winnipeg Manitoba Canada 🇨🇦
Thank you sir I have 3 echos and 2 of them are bogging out replace fuel lines sparkplug air filter ... awesome thx again
Thanks - nicely explained, my machine running a treat now.
Very thorough demo video. Like the thought process and troubleshooting logic. Nice job even if it does mean a new carb...
I'm figuring eventually I'll be able to troubleshoot our weed wackers if I watch enough videos like this.
Excellent video having same issue with idle, never knew to remove the plastic plug on top and adjust since it would not adjust with the idle screw on the side, thanks for the great video and tips.
I like the way those echos are designed with the gas tank looking up all the time; mine is a troybilt and you have to turn it on the side to gas it up and then turn it the other way to use it. It is a nusance if you ask me.
Mower Medjic where did you get your special tool to take out a fuel filter
I have an srm 230. The old carb does not have a plug in it for the low side adjustment. I even drilled into the brass/copper in the middle. What gives? Do some models not have a low side adjustment or am I just not going deep enough to remove plug?
BTW my 230 was doing the exact same thing.
Thank you for your help. Well worth watching if only to clarify what I /We all thought
I've got a WYK on my Tanaka AST2000 electric start trimmer I found at the dump and I love it. It's like a model airplane carb. A lot of adjustability and good fuel management at part throttle. I don't think there's anything wrong with the carb. :)
Tanaka s are the bees knees.
I hade to replace the fuel tubes and the grommet that holds them in the fuel tank. One was cracked. My trimmer is doing what youv've demonstrated. The new tubes seem longer than the original ones. Could they not be sitting in the gas mixture? ie. not sucking up enough gas?
I run unleaded plus and 2 cycle oil Husqvarna HP. 20 years from my same trimmer(SRM210) no issues. Had a similar issue, cleaned the jet, made some adjustments... never had an issue with it since. A whole carb is $15 so it's not like it's gonna be a sticker shock. Use better quality fuel and not fall into the marketing fluff. Avoid regular unleaded, that stuff is already trash
Never changed your carb on it?
Thank you, this video helped me out big time. Just an excellent video so thanks again.
Thanks for the info. Where would get a good, reliable carb for an Echo SRM 261T weed eater? TIA
Just tried it...and it really did work...thank you
Quick question I'm also a mechanic and have a lawn service what are your thoughts on the new stable fuel additive one stable is design for storage the other stable is for an additive for ethanol fuels for non-ethanol engines
I think you and I both know how to get that bog out of it brother! Drill a couple of 5/16 holes in between the exaust pipe mounting bolts and throw all that crap the EPA is molesting all are power equipment! All you have to do is take a look at a vintage chainsaw that you were able to adjust the carburetor on. And the intake hole was feeding enough air to make it run correctly! I can't say it any other way than, you can't save the planet and make horsepower performance with a 2-stroke engine! And I am pretty sure that we are all well aware that it's not the lawnmowers and the weedwackers or the chainsaws that are creating the global warming issues! But this i do know! And that is, You cannot restrict the exaust of a 2-stroke engine! The super heated exaust gasses are now coming out of the port when the piston cracks open at twice the speed of sound! And at WOT those explosions are back to back with no time for the spent charge just ahead of it to slow down enough to make it's way through a piece of brilliant to catch the hydrocarbons that gasoline gives off when burned, then the next delay is baffling and then yet another delay squeezing it's way through the spark arrestor screen! And then out a narrowed down exit hole before escaping the engine! Meanwhile making extra heat that gets absorbed through the metal at every one of those slow down points! And I live Portland Oregon where we are only about seventy miles away from the Pacific Ocean and it is 173 feet above sea level and we have all the oxygen you need to make a 2-stroke flat get with the program my friend! And you have got to be able to have the means to turn some jets to dial it in with that much good oxygen filled air to feed that fire that makes it all happen! Now wouldn't you agree? And of course everyone who brings their piece of equipment to me hear my personal equipment run, the next question I get asked is; Oh Wow! Can you make mine run like that? Because I never met a man who said; No! I don't want mine to run run that good! I would rather fight with trying to tune it with all this crap smothering it so as it will just barely run at all! Not even once have i heard that! 😉
I have a Champion 23cc trimmer and mine is bogging down exactly like yours. Unfortunately there are no adj screws. A replacement carb is hard to find in Canada.
Nicely done man! Thanks for the troubleshooting approaches you share!!
Are you sure the exhaust screen and the bevel that holds it on is clean? I recommend you replace the gasket & screen on the exhaust.
Thanks for the great video. You gave some great tips and information Jeremy. I never new about the High adjustment needle on the side of that Carburetor or the low adjustment on the top can you put the plug bag in the top after your finished adjusting it?
I like to install the plug back to keep the dirt out
Thanks for the great info. My trimmer now runs great!!!
Nice job and video very informative
My sthil hs82t only stays running on choke while pressing accelerator. Do you have any idea what my issue would be
Never checked the exhaust side like every other small engine mechanic, that exhaust port gets pretty small when caked up.😢
Love your videos!
Outstanding!!!
wow , thats a weird place for a idle screw . one would think its just a throttle shaft. ,,,they did that on purpose thanks for the tip
Been a screw there for years and years
Genius, thought I was gonna have to get another coberator
Your THROTTLE cable line adjustment nut screw on the carb screw out tomuch the gold screw the cable line go in
Huh?
I know that some goin to say huh. I just I can't really explain it I gotta point it out
You’re the man!
One reason why I run non-ethynol premium in all my small engines.
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Great stuff as always
Can you adjust a Shindaiwa this way?
how can you tell that it is a lean bog; it doesn't sound any difference to me?
Put 2 cycle oil ethanol shield from home Depot no problem 😊👍
Wow, thank you
i have an srm-2620 that i bough brand new it bogs at idle on start up then runs fine could there be an issue or is tht normal
All cold
Engines bog a
Little till they warm up
all echos are cold blooded and don't try to run it WOT from a cold start because it'll live a short life. Turn it on and let it idle for 30sec to a minute.
Yooo boss, not sure how busy ya work day is for my enquire. Nz briggs cant get briggs 1000 pro series 223cc 25mm engine. Would you wanna send me a price plus ship?
About 325.00 + tax+30 to ship
If there are any engineers (real, not backyard!) that want to correct me, go ahead BUT: the issue as I understand it, is NOT the ethanol itself, but the fact that it is Hydroscopic (meaning it attracts water) so while sitting, water ( from humidity/ condensation) collects in the carb and THAT is what causes the corrosion. This is why I have learned to always run my small engines dry whenever they will be sitting for any length of time. Running tank empty is easy but takes time and wastes fuel, so I put in a fuel shut off valve, when there is room. Getting it running / warmed up and shut off fuel, let it die.. Some (old?) carbs actually had a little drain valve (or screw) on the float bowl, to get the last bit of gas out ;)
From where you stopped, I would try running without the vent filter on. Then test the fuel filter in the tank. Make sure the fuel return and intake are not reversed sounds dumb, but they will somewhat run with them reversed with a fuel level high enough for the return now acting as intake line to grab some juice. Next would be a leak down test of the crankcase to make sure we have proper pulses going to the carb a seal leaking can cause fuel delivery issues. Honestly I do not think this needs a new carb. The dirt you saw in the carb could be caused by the lines being swapped. Ethanol will attract water yes it will damage rubber but you rubber parts look good. Fuel attracts water also it idled well you were able to kill it by over richening the high side this is a fuel pace delivery problem not a rotten carburetor.
I have one that’ll throttle but not idle.
Really digging this!
Can that be caused by clogged exhaust
He said he checked that.
Thanks, useful
the screw in top is slow jet
Nice video!!!!
Oh, but by putting ethanol in the fuel benefits............never mind.
Huh?
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 A sarcastic comment. The government decided to add ethanol to fuel to someone’s “benefit “. We now enjoy higher food and fuel prices and poorly performing engines.
End of sarcasm.
I enjoyed the video.
@@Cinder2008 small 3ngine guys ought to love it. Bread and butter.
It cheaper order new carburetor from EBay online
Junk that's why they are cheap. Keep genuine walbro forever no matter the cost. Ruixing cheap Chinese six bad
Not to mention they are mostly non adjustable
$50.00 for Waldro carburetor at the dealer i bought the Walbro carburetor from the dealer few times
Boy oh Boy, I could sure get political here with the ethanol in the gas, but I won't as I am biting my tongue. Like I have said before, this is why I pay extra for the non-ethanol gas that I can get at Buc-ee's that goes in all my small engines. It is a small price to pay in the long run.
For starters, as always excellent video. I apologize for asking this question on this video but if you could either point me to correct video or answer my problem. I have a mini bike im trying to help a neighbor that is missing the carb to governor arm linkage. He installed a hard wire but installed it as the position the arm was at, meaning i dont think its even close to correct. Is there a way if unable to get that linkage to find the correct distance? Should i put carb at wot and move governor arm to certain point (which I don't know where that would be) and measure then? Sorry for such long post but not trusting diff opinons im getting. Thank you again
mine does that until it warms up
Why do yall guys making videos in inceast on using on hand
Why do people start it eith the throttle down that's ehat the chokes for flooding it for no reason lol dosent make it start any quicker
Gm
Need to richen the low side mixture
Need new carburetor
Slap a new carb on ? They fairly cheap and don’t have to spend time hunting. lol
Running rich ?