Proper way to lubricate bush is to place on your thumb upright & fill with oil then squeeze bush between thumb & finger to force oil into bush which is phosphor bronze & pourese causing oil to impregnate bush and lubricating bush for life. Use light weight oil or engine oil.
exactly what my grandfather told me to do, he had a tap and we did it to my 74 African Red Beetle with transmission in place, I was much younger then, and since he already in his 80's, he shared his wisdom...M12.
Just did the starter in my 87 Syncro, Used this tap method for bushing removal (M12x 1.5) but the bushing just crumbled in the housing. Shop vacced the broken pieces out, oiled up the new bush and used a 1/4" drive socket + short extension that fit in the bushing perfectly to install new bushing.
@@69mag I put a EJ25 in my 85 Westy and then, the original starter failed as in dead, dead. New adapter and new TDI starter, just spun that subaru right over and it started right up. The adapter also works on air cooled buses too. Put one on my 67 and have one ready to go for my 78...have to have one from each Generation.
Thanks for the video, much appreciated. Certainly a good way to do it if the engine and gearbox are out of the car. In the car this is a different story. With the car on jack stands it's near impossible to even see the bushing let alone work at it. There is a factory tool specifically designed for this purpose but any good blind bearing puller should do the job easily.
I think this answers my questions. The bush on the end of the shaft fits into bell housing- not the back face of the crankcase! You won’t know what kind of starter you have till you pull it out
Great video - I have a 1990 Polo that I think has a starter bush too. It occasionally fails to start from cold - I hear the solenoid click but nothing else, then it will start after a few attempts. I think it is likely the starter needs replacing which I plan on doing soon but how likely do you think it is the bush needs replacing (it's only done about 50k miles)? The engine is in the car so I'd rather not replace it just now.
Start by just cleaning all the contacts on your starter. Your starter will have a nose cone, which has the bushing built in so it's not the same as a beetle.
Thanks for posting this video. Question: Since auto-trans starters do not require bushings and can be interchanged to be used in manual stick shift engines... will that be a shortcut? Or do they cost more?
I don't see how you could use an auto box starter on a manual car. The nosecone of the starter is built into the gearbox on a manual, which is why the bushing is in the box instead of on the starter. Even if it were possible, yes the starters are a lot more expensive and harder to find.
Hey great video! I have a question you may have an answer for. I have a 72 Ghia. The starter is fairly new, but it cranks super slowly and my wires and solenoid heat up, like really hot. Do you think its my starter bushing? It struggles to crank over a lot. Any help would be amazing!
Sounds like that's exactly what your issue is, yes. Make sure you've a good earth too. I actually have a bonding strap that goes from one nut on the gearbox housing over the the other side of the bolt that holds the battery strap onto the car.
@@Endfloat Yes ill be getting an all new earth as well as a new bushing. i just think it is odd that the bushing would go out after this short of a time. Either way, its getting replaced. Thanks so much for the help!
@@PatrickSwendsen you're very welcome. Please do report back and let us know how you got on. Before you replace the bushing, clean all, and I mean all your connections. Resistance causes heat.
@@Endfloat Ok thanks. I went out and took the starter off. I ordered a 6v bushing for my 6v starter. Turns out I need a 6v bushing for a 12v trans. I looked it up after I saw the bushing I ordered was fatter than the one I pulled out from the car, it was the same diameter but thinner.
Proper way to lubricate bush is to place on your thumb upright & fill with oil then squeeze bush between thumb & finger to force oil into bush which is phosphor bronze & pourese causing oil to impregnate bush and lubricating bush for life. Use light weight oil or engine oil.
Thanks for the info. I've pinned your comment for people to see if they're doing this job. 😎
This video saved me a whole lot of grief today, many thanks!
Glad I could help!
Used this technique yesterday......brilliant solution.
Thanks for the video, really clear. Lots of feedback on Forums that you should soak the bush in engine oil for 24hrs before putting into the housing
I think there's a couple of different types of bush. The sintered bronze bushes do need to be soaked, yes. Mine was a solid brass bush.
exactly what my grandfather told me to do, he had a tap and we did it to my 74 African Red Beetle with transmission in place, I was much younger then, and since he already in his 80's, he shared his wisdom...M12.
Yeah it works a treat, and when the gearbox is in the car, you just turn the tap until it bottoms out and pulls the bushing out.
Just did the starter in my 87 Syncro, Used this tap method for bushing removal (M12x 1.5) but the bushing just crumbled in the housing. Shop vacced the broken pieces out, oiled up the new bush and used a 1/4" drive socket + short extension that fit in the bushing perfectly to install new bushing.
@@69mag I put a EJ25 in my 85 Westy and then, the original starter failed as in dead, dead. New adapter and new TDI starter, just spun that subaru right over and it started right up. The adapter also works on air cooled buses too. Put one on my 67 and have one ready to go for my 78...have to have one from each Generation.
Thanks for the video, much appreciated. Certainly a good way to do it if the engine and gearbox are out of the car. In the car this is a different story. With the car on jack stands it's near impossible to even see the bushing let alone work at it. There is a factory tool specifically designed for this purpose but any good blind bearing puller should do the job easily.
I think this answers my questions. The bush on the end of the shaft fits into bell housing- not the back face of the crankcase! You won’t know what kind of starter you have till you pull it out
Yep, it's in the bell housing!
Is there a hole on the blind end? Didn't know that. And to do this job with the gearbox and engine in the car is what I'm facing.
@@Unexpectedperspectivesnow you can use a tap still and just keep winding it in and it'll draw the bush out.
@Endfloat i concluded I need to remove the driveshaft to get a bit better access to the bushing.
@@Unexpectedperspectivesnow that's a bit drastic.
@@Endfloat yeah but it's near impossible to even see the bushing when crawling around under the bus. I have the 112i WBX.
Great video - I have a 1990 Polo that I think has a starter bush too. It occasionally fails to start from cold - I hear the solenoid click but nothing else, then it will start after a few attempts. I think it is likely the starter needs replacing which I plan on doing soon but how likely do you think it is the bush needs replacing (it's only done about 50k miles)? The engine is in the car so I'd rather not replace it just now.
Start by just cleaning all the contacts on your starter. Your starter will have a nose cone, which has the bushing built in so it's not the same as a beetle.
Thanks for posting this video. Question: Since auto-trans starters do not require bushings and can be interchanged to be used in manual stick shift engines... will that be a shortcut? Or do they cost more?
I don't see how you could use an auto box starter on a manual car. The nosecone of the starter is built into the gearbox on a manual, which is why the bushing is in the box instead of on the starter. Even if it were possible, yes the starters are a lot more expensive and harder to find.
How do you know which one you need before taking it out? Thanks
As far as I remember, I bought both types. They're very cheap, so it made sense.
How do you remove it when it’s still connected to the engine I can’t get around the other side
@@zacharymillares9381 screw the tap into the bushing and as it bottoms out it will pull out the bushing.
Hey great video! I have a question you may have an answer for. I have a 72 Ghia. The starter is fairly new, but it cranks super slowly and my wires and solenoid heat up, like really hot. Do you think its my starter bushing? It struggles to crank over a lot. Any help would be amazing!
Sounds like that's exactly what your issue is, yes. Make sure you've a good earth too. I actually have a bonding strap that goes from one nut on the gearbox housing over the the other side of the bolt that holds the battery strap onto the car.
@@Endfloat Yes ill be getting an all new earth as well as a new bushing. i just think it is odd that the bushing would go out after this short of a time. Either way, its getting replaced. Thanks so much for the help!
@@PatrickSwendsen you're very welcome. Please do report back and let us know how you got on. Before you replace the bushing, clean all, and I mean all your connections. Resistance causes heat.
My engine is out, but my starter is still in. Can I pull the bushing out this way?
I don't think so, no. Sure if the engines out there's only one more nut holding the starter in.
@@Endfloat Ok thanks. I went out and took the starter off. I ordered a 6v bushing for my 6v starter. Turns out I need a 6v bushing for a 12v trans. I looked it up after I saw the bushing I ordered was fatter than the one I pulled out from the car, it was the same diameter but thinner.
How to get bushing out with engine and transmission in the car
Keep threading the tap in and when it bottoms out keep turning gently and it'll force the bushing out.
Remember always grease bushing
Always grease your bushing