Engine Cooling Overhaul Part 2. New hoses and valves are installed Lifeboat Conversion Ep60 [4K]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ย. 2022
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EPISODE 60
Having stripped out the cooling system for the Bukh engine, I've replaced all the connection hoses, clips, and added valves which allow me to isolate the two halves of the circuit. Plus updates on the blackout window covers.
Products mentioned:
Coolant and heat resistant heating hose
Full bore stainless steel lever valve
Hylotyte Red
Bukh zinc pencil anode
0.75mm Lexan polycarbonate sheet
A+B adhesive magnetic strips
Model: NME A/S (Husnes, Norway) 7.5m TELB
Engine: Bukh DV48 turbo diesel
Feel free to ask any questions in the comments!
___
Alex's new channel, Arguably: / @arguably-alexhibbert5085
Find out more about Alex's work at:
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Thanks to vanguardstorage.co.uk/ for warehousing facilities. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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To save yourself from stabbing yourself again with the screwdriver invest in a good nutdriver set or at least one that is the correct size/length for the hose clamps. you get far better clamping force with a nutdriver vs a screwdriver. Just my 2 cents from a marine engineer.
I second this! Flat head in a pinch, but socket or nutdriver is preferred on those type of clamps.
Agreed, one doesn't even need to drop too much on one. I have a T handle ratcheting screwdriver with a bunch of nut driver heads that I've used fairly heavily for years. It doesn't even have a brand name on it but I think I got it from Harbor Freight tools.
I could see the blood coming long before you felt it! Nutdriver is the answer, and you can use an electric drill for a quick system dismantling.
To continue to be able to count in decimal rather than base 9, it might be a good idea to fit plastic guards onto the sharp tails of the jubilee clips. A jubilee clips' little known secondary function is to draw a blood sacrifice from cold fingers in an emergency. Otherwise, trying to change the alternator could turn into a Saw mini-series.
You're probably not wrong
I forget about the blood sacrifice every single stinking time. After the number I’ve used at work you’d think I’d learn to always use gloves.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals
You're so kind..
Of course you could just click your Ruby Red 👠 heels together a few times...
🤣
Your videos are always equally informative as they are entertaining. On occasion, I get my wife to watch them with me. Her favorite part... is your short monotone "bye" at the end. She chuckles every time.
Bye!
I was just going to recommend 1/4 hex head. That's the most common worm clamp size in the USA. BUT The first comment already recommend it. They make it much easier, faster and safer. With that many hose clamps I wouldn't leave anywhere with out several
Another wonderful and heartwarming tale from the annals of Alan. Bliss.
the insulation on the doors really makes it look like the inside of a space station
An Englishman who doesn’t enjoy a hot cup of tea or coffee? God lord, we are living in mad times, mad times indeed! Cheers from N.Y.
Soapy water on that exhaust work to check for leaks. Yes, it passed the "smell test", but small leaks can slowly fill the interior without much smell, but still lead to headaches etc.
Yep, check out the final exhaust replacement episode. We deployed the soap.
Who said us men should keep our mutual joy of rubber quiet ?.. bravo Alex.
Spiral wrap used on heavy equipment hydraulic hoses is a great way to protect against chaffing of you hoses.
I agree with others. Foil tape. If you do use paint, be careful of the type. Some solvents can really mess with that kind of plastic. Also, the only possible concern I saw was the copper tube you cut off. I'm sure you gave it a lot of extra overlap, but without any kind of barb, that joint is prone to leaks and slipping.
Just FYI, there is a right angle crimping tool for your clamps it's Oetiker Part# 14100498 which has the added benefits of both being compound action (easier) AND the jaws stop at the proper distance from each other so that you don't compromise the clamp by over-tightening them.
Thank you
Loved this week's installation as usual. Just adding a comment for the algorithm!
I vote for the foil tape for the blackouts. I’m not sure you’ll get good enough coverage to block the light with the paint without a lot of coats and the tape will be easier to patch if you damage it out in the wild.
Second this. Foil tape is much more durable than tape and much easier to apply in the field.
I agree. I tried to black out a glass window with spray paint recently and the results were underwhelming despite several coats.
Black paint might get hot too in direct sunlight
I also agree. Plus polycarbonate can be fickle with paint, and even plastic paint can chip or warp the thin plastic
I can't believe someone would design an engine like this. I was stressed just seeing you trying to make everything work
To be honest I've not seen many others, but many boat engines seem to have a web of hoses zooming everywhere. It's possible I could have made simplifications, but I played it safe and copied the original build.
While I could listen to you read yellow pages (bearing in mind they are today a lot thinner than in my youth) & ever so slightly off-topic, I noticed at the front of your Alans plucky lil throbbing power plant an extra pully attachment. Surely you could add a do-hicky as our self-imploding American cousins call it to run an additional power-generating source for dark & cloudy/Snow days using belts and pullies yadayada. I may be having a senior moment & you have covered this in an older ep. That said thy Engine is looking grand there lad. keep up the entertaining toil :-)
It's an option! Staying simple at the moment.
I forgot about you for over a year, good to see you’re still going strong
Still trucking! Setting off next summer.
Foil tape for the blackout covers. If it starts to peel you can easily replace it unlike the paint. It will also reflect heat as opposed to absorbing it which will cause the tape on the magnetic strips to fail. I worked third shift for a long time and I can't fall asleep in a room with lights on. I covered my windows with thick black plastic bags used for keeping large photo sensitive plates for industrial printing and some duct tape. They worked great at first but you could feel the heat radiating off of them. It actually was quite unpleasant to touch till eventually they melted the glue off the gorilla tape and fell off the windows. I made a change to aluminum foil that can be found in any kitchen. It reflected the sunlight and never got hot to the touch so the tape never gave way. It also had the added effect of hundreds of tiny pinholes that looked like stars in the night sky. Granted I don't in the arctic circle and the outside temperature wasn't below zero when I had the black bags taped to the inside of the windows either. So maybe they covers won't generate enough heat to melt the glue. I think further testing would be needed to figure it out. Either way you choose I'm curious what you pick and how it will hold up under conditions since this is one thing I'm very passionate about.
Noted. Cheers
Foil on the inside so when you have them in place it will help reflect light about, you could spray black then cover with foil for belt and braces
g
Greatest number/variety of coolant hoses I have ever seen on an internal combustion engine.
Yeah, whoever designed it had a sense of humour.
Kudos on the sparky grindy shots, obv the highlight of the vid 😁
👍
@12:20 - "It was an impulse purchase from the famously idiosyncratic central aisle of a budget supermarket. Some of you may know."
Aldi for the win! I swear that 75% of my most useful tools were sourced there...
Such Quality planning and work
Nice work!
Lovely job 👌
Awesome your still plugging along!
For the blackout windows, spray the lexan first with the black paint so it looks nice, then put the foil tape on to reflect heat from the sun, or you could just do the paint so that the sun heats up the life raft more.
Reflecting the heat and UV back at the window from the inside can damage the window and its seals.
Impressive. Congrats
5:50 , I have found success using some sandpaper wrapped around the barb to get a better hose fit
Use radiator backing or a roll of laminate wood underfloor insulating. It's opaque, insulated, and if you get the sliver backed stuff it will reflect light and heat back into Alan.
For the black out window coverings that is.
Since Alan is going to be used in an arctic environment wouldn't reflecting heat back into the boat be a good thing?
@@brownass2 I hope so. It's what I use when camping in my car/van.
@@NathanRae if its reflective on both sides it will keep the heat out in the summer time as well.
Look into band-it clamps, works on any size hose and it’s one size fit all design keeps down on parts your need to carry for on the spot repairs.
Absolutely fantastic engine upgrades 🙏
Ah! The joy of refitting. Keep it up Alex👍👍👍🤙👊😉
Mechanical artistry
thank you
Spot on mate congratulations from Aotearoa New Zealand
AMAZINGNES!!!
For the o clips you can get some Knipex 10 99 i220 pliers. They are front and side crimping pliers for the clips.
Thanks
Knipex 10 90 i220 side and end crimping tool for those hose clamps.
You do very nice work! I always enjoy your channel and your science.
looking good! and use foil for blackout!
Cooling system looks great. I wish you were able to install the y valves, and have a radiator down in the bilge - lots of free heat from that coolant loop just going into the ocean.
I actually set my own mind and that of my engineering cabal to this frequent and long standing question over the festive period. Whether diverting the existing coolant or using a heat recovery circuit to steal from the exhaust, a key issue is how to avoid heat pooling or over pressure when this cabin heater is switched off.
I’m glad you got that mini socket wrench. I think it’s one of the more underrated multitasking tools. Especially if it accepts normal drill driver bits. You can even use it in a pinch to drill hole with quick change drill bits. And if you use it with a drill bit extender and/or right angle adapter you can apply torque almost anywhere. I’ve broken two though, so if you start to rely on it, maybe buy a spare when on sale.
I like the solution for the blackout screens. Very clever. Foil tape would be my choice. Because it’s shiny and nice to look at, and might be useful for reflecting Alan’s radiance when not blocking sunlight. You can also get polycarbonate printed if you want one side to have unnecessary but cool diagrams or information or beautiful pictures of you and Alan together.
Also it occurs to me that the overkill anwser to the tape v paint conundrum is tape on exterior and paint on interior.
I had to get an extra large socket wrench for removing wheels (tyre change kit) and larger sockets from British Leyland, then after a shoulder injury loosening bolts at odd angles(or my shoulder joint), I used the ratchet type from a Halfords car service kit to do the rest
The work isn't to get water from one place to another. The work is to prevent water from going where it isn't wanted
Hi Alex I am sure your screwdriver or wrist has a torque setting to ensure all the clips are secure however from experience I have done the final turns on hose clips using a small socket set - do not get near to over tightening but just try a little nip up all round for consistent torque which you will “feel” much better with the socket …..
Yeah people have been saying this. I suppose I didn't want to over-torque the rubber.
I hope those ball valves (3:20) & (3:47) never freeze, I used those for garden irrigation along with some plastic ones. A frost or two and the metal ones burst (just a clean break between the female threaded part and the valve body, left side press fit @ 5:01) but the plastic ones did not. Maybe yours are better quality.
I'd be staggered if they did. They are thermally insulated from the keel coolers, are made from stainless steel, and have all the industry certifications.
Cool looking Scania at 17:00 (I'm American so I never get to see Scanias)
I don't envy you with all of those ridiculous pipe and hose gauge changes! You're going to have to carry a variety of spare hose sizes.
There are a number of companies that will fabricate bespoke silicone hoses of any diameter, changing diameter and shape. That would save you a considerable number of joints and duplicate for spares.
Yes I did look at this option, but the cost was pretty eye-watering. Plus, with a set of four hose diameters, my steel reducers and plenty of clamps and elbows, I can repair and fashion most configurations.
Was that Top Gear or Grand Tour on your tablet? Either way, great choice to have on in the background. And I'm extremely impressed that you were able to secure all those hoses, in all those weird angles, with only _one_ case of spilled blood.
just making it away with just one unscarred hand is a win in my book.
I think that was a Grand Tour special.
Hi Alex, ive just found your you tube channel ive been watching all of your clips for the past few days, but thought i would just leave a comment everything you have been doing has sparked my imagination, i worked offshore for over 15 very long years and have been in and out of this type of lifeboat many times, any way i digress i wanted to ask you about the exhaust and weather it would be useful to have a copper pipe heat exchanger wrapped around the exhaust for hot water or radiator and i know you have secured the solar panels but would they fit the hull better at an angle like a chevron im not sure if you had these comments before so please consign them to the bin if so cheers
I know your probably know this but a hex driver will provide more torque on you threaded hose clamps. Even more if you use a 1/4” drive ratchet and a wobble joint and an extension
Progress.
You always double clamp hoses in a marine application. I haven’t seen you do it once. Very important.
After you run the engine for a few hours I would recommend re tightening the cooling system
Will do. Cheers
@@AlexHibbertOriginals also I would recommend checking them every time you change the oil I am a car mechanic and I have had many of those style clamps come lose over the years
Alan may? like to have his anodes painted maybe yellow so that you can identify them easily for maintenance with their install date on them ????
Support to copper pipe should be mounted to engine assembly, vibrates as a single unit, never do right angle bends, would have been better as one lenght of rubber pile, also use hose clips that have a rolled edge, I think wurth do them, but there are a couple of different makers, keep things simple.
Foil tape is best. You’re guaranteed a good result. Paint will require many layers to get it good and is much less durable.
once Alan has had a bit of heat through his pipes it might be worth checking the clips gain.
Im sure you already know that I just wanted to comment and could only think of this. ☺
2x👍
Will do
For the clips with no access from the top i use dull long rich snips.
Good idea
Very competent work, only surpassed by the storytelling :)
👍👍👍👍
Do you have an option for a darker thermal tape that could have better thermal absorption? Seems like the tape is the safer option, but something that can take in any sun's rays to heat the ship in the chilly waters sounds like some energy savings in the long run.
a nut driver ir even ratchet and socket works much better on your jubalee clamps. and they don't usualy draw blood.
Always 2 clamps on hoses that can sink your boat😉🫡
There's a movie called The Fountain, Hugh Jackman is the star. He is totally your doppelganger. Check it out.
Oh, Alex, please, PLEASE don't use a flat screwdriver for your hose clamps! Buy the right-sized socket screwdrivers, i.e. 5/16" Nut Driver. You can also get drill drivers. It'll save you headaches and stitches!!
I didn't want to over-torque, but yes it was a somewhat unscheduled investigation into my hand's inner workings.
The copper rings used on the valves will give you problems because of galvanic corrosion between the metal's
Interesting. I'll investigate. It could be easy to clamp a couple of mini zinc anodes to the valves, but I'm not sure what effect the anti corrosion coolant has on it acting as a galvanic cell.
Definitely WAAAY too late, but a nut driver is much better for the application of tightening jubilee clips!
Yep I have a couple now
im still suprised you dont have a small fluid radiator inside the boat that you can engage via the valves to use engine heat to heat the cabin, but im sure you know what you are doing w/ the cooling system more than i do
Edit: the blackout sheets would be better w/ foil tape as it pulls double duty: it insulates and blocks the light (shiny side inwards so you get the insulation) and paint hates polycarb and would flake and come off
I've been looking at the specifics, and haven't found a good, controllable, and space-appropriate solution yet.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals as the whole engine will have a surface temperature of around 80 degrees C, all you would need to do is enable or disable a fan that pushes interior air through the acoustic box. The pathway can be muffled easily. To prevent sucking in cold outside air in huge amounts, cooling down the interior promptly to outside temperatures, provide the engine intake a route to outside, a reverse exhaust basically. If you want to be convinced about this, calculate the air displacement of your engine at a given RPM. Since it is a diesel, it is always at WOT. This is even relevant when designing an engine bay extinguisher system on 'regular' boats- co2 is often too quickly pulled out via just the inertia of two large diesel engines operating at planing speeds.
Do you need to purge the system of air?
I was prepared for that - coughing and spluttering. But no, it just all ran nicely.
Couldn't you just glue the blackout fabric to the plastic?
A drop off gasoline on a rubber hose allows it to slide like a headed pig on ice-skates. It dries and fuses to the metal . Think motorcycle handlebar grips
Interesting - will check if those hoses are gasoline-safe.
arent you worried, that, by removing the heater you run the risk of your coolant getting very cold (and then anything bad that might lead from that) if Alan's Engine goes out for a day or two?
Not if in the water - the coolant will vary between the cabin temperature and maybe -1 to +1 deg C. The heater were there to heat the coolant in case the boat was out the water, and the coolant was -20 or -30 deg C.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals ah yes, i forgot you mentioned that in a past episode, it dawned on me as i read this. Good job with the plumbing, i have zero skill other than all i saw on youtube, and all i can say is good job. Really looks like solid work for all i know.... i wouldnt be as scared sailing in alan if i saw that :D
Edit: i dont know if you will read this too but i just wanted to say i know why i like what you do so much, it straight up reminds of the old book of expedition Kon-Tiki. sbout guys crossing oceans wit ancient boat designs. all that except modern
Hi, following you I feel I have start by justify any Alan commitment so I guess I’m what you would call a sticker and hat level fan (although in defence my streamline body modelled on years of McDonald’s and commuting) has meant a lack of confidence in your T-shirt! Sizes! Anyway to make up I thought I’d collect delve into your literary masterpieces as audio books, but alas can’t find you on audible… I can already heard your refusal to pay commission to large corporates, but my hopes were raised by you mentioning Amazon.. anyway good luck with Alan .. Ambo
Audiobooks for already published titles can be tricky to get approval for, but noted for in future!
A4's for immersion
They were from the original build, so have stuck with them. But yes, I did notice that.
I assume you "burped" the system to ensure all air pockets were gone?
Goodness. Alan is always thoroughly burped.
hi, i was trying to find this video using my smart tv (im not logged in so there is no suscribed feed) and i noticed that it was really hard to find using keywords like "a boat named alan" or "engine overhaul". Some youtubers add keywords in the description of the video (usually a horrible block of #somethin#somethinElse#somethingVerySimilar), maybe it could help with the search priority or whatever? just a thought but i guess it couldn't hurt to try
I'm no SEO expert, but will have a look
From good authority you say, hmmm hmmm
Thus, from a professional's point of view, hoses and connections look dangerous and the risk of leakage is considerably high
I'm always grateful for such coherent, detailed and constructive feedback.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I understand that just a long hose looks ugly and a hose with different sized ends is difficult to find, but every joint is a risk of leakage and every extra joint is an extra risk of leakage. That's why I would do my best to have as few joints as possible in such an object.
Don’t get you magnetic tape near your compass ….. sorry old man cation …..
Cheers Dick! I actually tested the roll of magnetic tape with the compass. It deflected at about 10 inches away.