Using the chains and binders over top of the bush hog is probably going to tear the bush hog up, plus make it hard to really get the back end of the tractor tied down tight. And it looks like you have a LOT of weight on the front of the trailer. I would look at aligning the rear axle of the tractor up with the rear axle of the trailer, or even a little further back. Your looking for about 10% to 15% of the load to be on the tongue of the trailer, that looks more like 30%to 40%. If you back it up, and raise the three point hitch all the way up, you can likely run the chains under the bush hog, to the rear corner stake pockets. Then hook one end of the ratchet binder down into the rear stake pocket, on the bottom of the front part of the stake pocket. Hook the other end of the binder to the chain and tighten the binder down. The remaining chain can be run back towards the tractor and hooked on to the chain there. Any slack in the chain can be handled by wrapping the loose part of the chain around the tight part of the chain, as many times as necessary, no zip ties needed, the chain won't unwrap itself enough times to matter (same in the front). Do the same to the other side then once all four corners are good and tight, lower the three point hitch till the back corners of bush hog rests on the chain or binders (you can put something soft between them to protect the bush hog except that part of the bush hog is going to take a lot of abuse anyways in its normal use). Then strap the bush hog (BH) down over that spot (the frame of the trailer is probably a c-channel, not tube steel, so you can hook the ends of the straps to the bottom leg of the c-channel, assuming there is not a stake pocket lined up there). Or hook the strap to the stake pocket in front of the tail lights, running the straps under the tail light brackets, then up over the bush hog. You will probably have to remove the bolt above the arm for the BH's back wheel so you can rotate that up and towards the tractor and strap it to something if it will stick out more than 3 feet from the rear of the trailer. If anything is hanging out off the back of the trailer (3' or so is okay I think), tie a red flag to it and call it good....cause that flag will be more visible than that bright orange BH.....not really but it should make officer Hoover and his friends happy. If it worked the way you had it, great, it just looks punishing to your BH and like lots of tongue weight for your hitch. I would also drive about 20 minutes, or before you get on an interstate, and stop to check everything is still tight. At that point, tightening the front chains should be enough to also tighten the rears up if they are a little loose (so you don't have to mess with the BH if it is over top of the rear binders). Please don't take anything above as being critical of your loading, getting these large items that don't have nice even distribution of their weight positioned on a trailer and in a way that you can tie it down can take lots of time and adjusting. Even more so when you don't want to scratch, bent or bend up your nice tractor and attachments!! Sorry for such a long comment but I hope it all goes well and you enjoy bush hogging your new property, have a good one!!
No I don’t take offense at all! Very good tips. I did feel like there was too much tongue weight but had I backed up any further, the bush hog would’ve been off the end of the trailer so I settled for rolling forward just enough to make it fit. It probably is punishing to the bush hog to have the chain strapped over the top of it. I like the idea of raising the bush hog and tying the binders underneath. I’m going to try that. The set up worked well the way I had it, but doing it that way often would definitely cause damage to the top of the bush hog. It pulled very well and I had no problems with how it trailered, but I think next time I will probably just back it up a little bit and let the bush hog hang off to alleviate some of the tongue weight. I appreciate the input!
That's the first thing I thought of, too, just guessing on how the load is distributed (tongue weight). As you have probably learned, the more you do it the easier (and faster) it gets. After every off season I have to re-learn all the little tricks and shortcuts that make trailering easier. I know you're trying to meet legal requirements, but functionally I doubt that skinny ratchet strap over the loader would do much good if needed.
Yeah it takes a new season to remind yourself of the things you figured out last season. The little strap over the loader is really for show. It’s attached to the tractor so if that comes loose, there’s bigger problems at hand!
There's a couple of ways to keep the front of the trailer from hopping up as you load. The cheapest way is to just put a couple of jack stands under the back of the trailer but your deck looks pretty low so you might not be able to do that. I picked up a couple of adjustable legs from my trailer dealer that you weld on just behind the fenders. That way if you're on uneven ground you can have one longer or shorter as needed but they keep the trailer planted when you're loading it.
Yes, my trailer’s dovetail is already pretty low, but I may install some stands at some point. At the very least, throw some 6x6 lumber under there if I need it.
I use a pair of bottle jacks to keep the back of my trailer from lowering as I load and unload my equipment. It also keeps my truck from lifting up. I installed air shocks on the rear of my truck to keep it from lowering under load...it cost me about $120 and took about 45 minutes.
i welded a d ring on the center plate on the front for a tie down, you can get bolt on ones too. i painted orange and love it when i have to trailer my tractor around. i have a ck2510
Très belle vidéo Très beau tracteur et très bien équipé Doit être très agréable à conduire L'on doit faire d'excellents travaux avec Super le chargement sur la remorque pour le transport J'adore 😀👍
Great video! Especially since I am in the market for a trailer for my new tractor. Nice to see how others tie down their tractors and equipment they use. Is this a commercial purchased trailer or a custom made trailer? I just bought a new set of rachet binders and the threads need a good coating of grease. That might help with your twisting chain. Also, I have seen several equipment trailers that have support stands welded onto the ramps. But that is with ramps that are hinged and rotate up causing the support stands to rotate up off of the ground. Good luck with the trailering.
Thank you! Yeah it was purchased by a commercial builder. I do need to add some stands for the back of the trailer but it’s so low to the ground I haven’t been too concerned about it. I agree, it does help to grease those binders!
Somebody mentioned you needed to put more weight on the back of the trailer that is absolutely the most dangerous thing you can do you need to balance the load out to where you have a little bit of the load on the front the more on the back the more dangerous it is actually for that tractor you should have got a longer trailer and keep the tractor tires about middle ways between the two back axles are a little ahead which is preferred the main thing is the weight you have on the back of your truck
Mine is a 5’ and a CK2610. I bought the tractor before buying land. It’s does great, but if I had it to do over I might go for the 3510 or 4010 just to run a larger brush hog. Takes a long time to BH 15 acres with a 5’er but I’m still very happy with my 2610. Although I bet the 2610 would be able to run a 6’ BH just fine.
That hitch insert looked to be a welded tubular insert which is only rated for #5000 pounds max. Throw that insert in the trash and get a solid steel one with a matching ball that both exceed the gvw of the trailer. Mine I got from TSC and is a solid forged steel unit rated for about 27,000 pounds along with a 1-1/4" shank ball that is about 16,000 pound rating. You do not want to have that expensive tractor and trailer passing you on the highway and killing someone in an accident that will be YOUR FAULT for not using proper equipment and possible prison for doing so if someone dies.
Not true. My F150 is rated for 500 lb. hitch weight, but 1100 lbs. with a weight distribution hitch. Oddly enough, a Ford Super Duty has the same 500 lb. limit. I pulled my 20' trailer with a CK3510 w/backhoe, bucket, set of pallet forks, and a grapple 1200 miles with only a 2" squat at the rear and 3/8" rise at the front of the truck.
![[Re:all TREASURE] EP.6 in 방콕ㅣ🚩 쩡캠의 방콕 투어 빵 마이 와이 👍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uyFw-nItA_s/mqdefault.jpg)
Good video. After watching a lot of videos like this, I ordered a 24ft tilt deck to accommodate a tractor with 6ft bush hog. Thanks for posting.
This tilt decks are nice. Enjoy it! Thank you
Using the chains and binders over top of the bush hog is probably going to tear the bush hog up, plus make it hard to really get the back end of the tractor tied down tight. And it looks like you have a LOT of weight on the front of the trailer. I would look at aligning the rear axle of the tractor up with the rear axle of the trailer, or even a little further back. Your looking for about 10% to 15% of the load to be on the tongue of the trailer, that looks more like 30%to 40%.
If you back it up, and raise the three point hitch all the way up, you can likely run the chains under the bush hog, to the rear corner stake pockets. Then hook one end of the ratchet binder down into the rear stake pocket, on the bottom of the front part of the stake pocket. Hook the other end of the binder to the chain and tighten the binder down. The remaining chain can be run back towards the tractor and hooked on to the chain there. Any slack in the chain can be handled by wrapping the loose part of the chain around the tight part of the chain, as many times as necessary, no zip ties needed, the chain won't unwrap itself enough times to matter (same in the front). Do the same to the other side then once all four corners are good and tight, lower the three point hitch till the back corners of bush hog rests on the chain or binders (you can put something soft between them to protect the bush hog except that part of the bush hog is going to take a lot of abuse anyways in its normal use). Then strap the bush hog (BH) down over that spot (the frame of the trailer is probably a c-channel, not tube steel, so you can hook the ends of the straps to the bottom leg of the c-channel, assuming there is not a stake pocket lined up there). Or hook the strap to the stake pocket in front of the tail lights, running the straps under the tail light brackets, then up over the bush hog.
You will probably have to remove the bolt above the arm for the BH's back wheel so you can rotate that up and towards the tractor and strap it to something if it will stick out more than 3 feet from the rear of the trailer. If anything is hanging out off the back of the trailer (3' or so is okay I think), tie a red flag to it and call it good....cause that flag will be more visible than that bright orange BH.....not really but it should make officer Hoover and his friends happy.
If it worked the way you had it, great, it just looks punishing to your BH and like lots of tongue weight for your hitch.
I would also drive about 20 minutes, or before you get on an interstate, and stop to check everything is still tight. At that point, tightening the front chains should be enough to also tighten the rears up if they are a little loose (so you don't have to mess with the BH if it is over top of the rear binders).
Please don't take anything above as being critical of your loading, getting these large items that don't have nice even distribution of their weight positioned on a trailer and in a way that you can tie it down can take lots of time and adjusting. Even more so when you don't want to scratch, bent or bend up your nice tractor and attachments!!
Sorry for such a long comment but I hope it all goes well and you enjoy bush hogging your new property, have a good one!!
No I don’t take offense at all! Very good tips. I did feel like there was too much tongue weight but had I backed up any further, the bush hog would’ve been off the end of the trailer so I settled for rolling forward just enough to make it fit.
It probably is punishing to the bush hog to have the chain strapped over the top of it. I like the idea of raising the bush hog and tying the binders underneath. I’m going to try that.
The set up worked well the way I had it, but doing it that way often would definitely cause damage to the top of the bush hog. It pulled very well and I had no problems with how it trailered, but I think next time I will probably just back it up a little bit and let the bush hog hang off to alleviate some of the tongue weight.
I appreciate the input!
@@klittle3147 Glad it still pulled well for you!
That's the first thing I thought of, too, just guessing on how the load is distributed (tongue weight). As you have probably learned, the more you do it the easier (and faster) it gets. After every off season I have to re-learn all the little tricks and shortcuts that make trailering easier. I know you're trying to meet legal requirements, but functionally I doubt that skinny ratchet strap over the loader would do much good if needed.
Yeah it takes a new season to remind yourself of the things you figured out last season. The little strap over the loader is really for show. It’s attached to the tractor so if that comes loose, there’s bigger problems at hand!
There's a couple of ways to keep the front of the trailer from hopping up as you load. The cheapest way is to just put a couple of jack stands under the back of the trailer but your deck looks pretty low so you might not be able to do that. I picked up a couple of adjustable legs from my trailer dealer that you weld on just behind the fenders. That way if you're on uneven ground you can have one longer or shorter as needed but they keep the trailer planted when you're loading it.
Yes, my trailer’s dovetail is already pretty low, but I may install some stands at some point. At the very least, throw some 6x6 lumber under there if I need it.
@@MakeitHappen1 I just put a deposit on a 20' (18 + 2) trailer. Factory equipped with the jacks at the bever tail
Congrats! Having those jacks will be a nice convenience
Thank you for posting....I learned a lot from this. I like the axle strap idea! I have ne binders too...at least I know the challenges that await me.
Thanks! Yeah the axle straps are a great option
I use a pair of bottle jacks to keep the back of my trailer from lowering as I load and unload my equipment. It also keeps my truck from lifting up. I installed air shocks on the rear of my truck to keep it from lowering under load...it cost me about $120 and took about 45 minutes.
I’ve wondered how air shocks might work. I’ll have to look into those. Definitely worth $120!
i welded a d ring on the center plate on the front for a tie down, you can get bolt on ones too. i painted orange and love it when i have to trailer my tractor around. i have a ck2510
That’s a great idea. Since I can’t weld I may have to look into the bolt on ones.
Thanks for the video.
Just an observation. If you are still chocking the front wheels, turn the wheels straight forward first, then place the chock. 😃
Yes good point. Thank you
YOUNG MAN ,
LOADER BUCKET NEED TO BE FLAT ON THE DECK !
I put a wood block under the back of my trailer when I load my 1025r. The block works good when unloading dirt,stone,etc. Also
I agree. It is a good idea to block the back end.
Très belle vidéo
Très beau tracteur et très bien équipé
Doit être très agréable à conduire
L'on doit faire d'excellents travaux avec
Super le chargement sur la remorque pour le transport
J'adore 😀👍
that's a really nice flatbed trailer thanks for sharing the video
Thank you
I tow mine with the bucket curled the opposite of the way you did. That way the hydraulic cylinders aren't exposed.
Great video! Especially since I am in the market for a trailer for my new tractor. Nice to see how others tie down their tractors and equipment they use. Is this a commercial purchased trailer or a custom made trailer? I just bought a new set of rachet binders and the threads need a good coating of grease. That might help with your twisting chain. Also, I have seen several equipment trailers that have support stands welded onto the ramps. But that is with ramps that are hinged and rotate up causing the support stands to rotate up off of the ground. Good luck with the trailering.
Thank you! Yeah it was purchased by a commercial builder. I do need to add some stands for the back of the trailer but it’s so low to the ground I haven’t been too concerned about it. I agree, it does help to grease those binders!
Oil the rachet binders so they screw in easier, helping not to twist the chain.
Nice set up. What are the specs of your trailer make model and size? My ck2610 should be delivered this coming week. 🤞🏼
Will do thanks!
@@ericwagoner9149 The trailer is 7x20 (18’ with 2’ dovetail); 7000lb axles. Built by Maxbuilt in North Carolina.
@@klittle3147 use a dry graphite like "slip plate" on the binders works with you're strap ratchets also. Oil attracts dirt!!
Good call.. thank you
Nice units 👍
Thank you!
Good job looks 👍🏻
Thank you sir
Somebody mentioned you needed to put more weight on the back of the trailer that is absolutely the most dangerous thing you can do you need to balance the load out to where you have a little bit of the load on the front the more on the back the more dangerous it is actually for that tractor you should have got a longer trailer and keep the tractor tires about middle ways between the two back axles are a little ahead which is preferred the main thing is the weight you have on the back of your truck
Is the brush hog a 5ft or 6ft unit. I want to buy a tractor and trailer package just not sure if to get the ck2610, ck3510 or ck4010.
Mine is a 5’ and a CK2610. I bought the tractor before buying land. It’s does great, but if I had it to do over I might go for the 3510 or 4010 just to run a larger brush hog. Takes a long time to BH 15 acres with a 5’er but I’m still very happy with my 2610. Although I bet the 2610 would be able to run a 6’ BH just fine.
That hitch insert looked to be a welded tubular insert which is only rated for #5000 pounds max. Throw that insert in the trash and get a solid steel one with a matching ball that both exceed the gvw of the trailer. Mine I got from TSC and is a solid forged steel unit rated for about 27,000 pounds along with a 1-1/4" shank ball that is about 16,000 pound rating. You do not want to have that expensive tractor and trailer passing you on the highway and killing someone in an accident that will be YOUR FAULT for not using proper equipment and possible prison for doing so if someone dies.
What is the purpose of the strap over the loader?
The tractor itself has to be tied down as well as each implement. So I just threw a strap over the bucket to be safe.
Is your bed/deck 20 ft or does 20 ft include the tongue? Thanks
The deck is 20’ (not including the tongue)
Chalking all them tires you must think that it's going to roll away that easy? I'm all for safety but. Some things can be a little Overkill
Hardly overkill imo
How does the truck takes that load?
Sorry just saw this one. Truck is a Ram 1500 w a Hemi. Handles it very well as long as the weight is distributed properly.
DON'T RUN CHAIN THUR THE BRUSH HOG / OUTSIDE OF BRUSH HOG BEST WAY !
Yes I now run the chain under the bush hog. Thank you
What size is your trailer?
It’s 20’ (18’ + 2’ dovetail)
What size trailer is it?
It’s 20’ dovetail
Nice trailer though
Read your manuals... the tractor should be loaded with the back end facing forward...
ANY TRUCK NEED HEAVY DUTY , COIL SPRING IF U ARE PULLING TRAILER
Not true. My F150 is rated for 500 lb. hitch weight, but 1100 lbs. with a weight distribution hitch. Oddly enough, a Ford Super Duty has the same 500 lb. limit. I pulled my 20' trailer with a CK3510 w/backhoe, bucket, set of pallet forks, and a grapple 1200 miles with only a 2" squat at the rear and 3/8" rise at the front of the truck.