Hi @onlyfriendyeah, Thanks very much for your kind words, this is my latest video, 7 Ways to Soundproof a Ceiling th-cam.com/video/0OSrzTPM1cw/w-d-xo.html which I think is pack full of more useful tips: Many Thanks for you comment
Great explanation! Have you any experience or have an opinion of reducing the Rockwool thickness from 100mm down to say 50mm? Thus with option 6 (175mm) or option 7 (185mm) the space required would be 125mm or 135mm? Thank you
Thanks very much for watching, so glad you got value from it, it is a great question. It is not something we have tested in residential homes. However some bespoke projects we have done similar things. The main reason we build the floating frame like we show you in the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course is because of the load bearing. The frame is built with pressure and anti-vibration pads giving superior isolation and decoupling compared to the traditional stud frames. I think you could use a 2 x 2 timber and a 50mm RW3 but to take the load bearing you would have to secure the timber to the flanking walls, ceiling and floor and maybe even put noggins in a few places like a traditional stud frame. Saying that I am really intrigued to see how you get on. I have a couple of things for you….the first is The Soundproofing Masterclass I am running really soon….here is the link: jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/ And also...Check this video out: it show the thicker system and the thiner system joining between the upstairs bedroom and the downstairs lounge: th-cam.com/video/CR7ZtJ3fI2c/w-d-xo.htmlsi=J1fAznh04oB6twLp
Hi. Amazing videos, mate. I'm very impressed about your job 👌. Keep doing it 👍 Been searching for videos about Floating frame installation, but can't find it on your channel 😕 Can you please, paste mi the link , here? Best regards ✨️
Hi @mateusz4735 , glad you are enjoying the videos, thanks very much for your comment, much appreciated. We give step by step lessons on all the different layers the Floating Frame and all the other soundproof wall systems, soundproof floors and soundproof ceilings on the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course. There is actually a lot to it, which is why there a few lessons on each different layer. This video is about as much detail I go into on TH-cam: th-cam.com/video/7OdKIEmpbWM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4uO8hAO3ejLHd35I Hope that helps. Please let me know how you get on with your soundproofing, what type of house you have and your noise problem? Thanks again for your comment
Hi HdramaTran, thanks very much, glad you are getting value from them. Not really, have a look through some of my TH-cam video descriptions, some suppliers have sponsored videos and we have included their links. Also might be worth a Google of ‘M20AD’ and you will find a lot of places supply it. Hope that helps 🙏
I’ve only started looking into solutions for our noise issues, but to help me focus my efforts, are there affordable, preferably DIY, solutions that can be attached directly to an existing plasterboarded stud wall without removing the existing sheets of plasterboard?
Hey Oneiros88, great question, thanks for your comment. Absolute not no, a hollow stud wall can be a main cause of the noise. Going over the top like some soundproofing material suppliers suggest…will channel the noise into the hollow floor, hollow ceiling void and into the structure. Check this installation case study out: th-cam.com/video/u7GUZHIOyuw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1Rd7VzMYYMen2qKT Bottom line is, the sound is resonating in that plasterboard wall and you need to open it up and insulate the hollow void to stop the sound resonating….and then go over the top of it. Hope that helps Let us know how you get on JP
What would I need to do to stop my neighbours from hearing me (sounds of saws and tool) from a room on a partying wall? will insulating the flanking walls actually stop them from transmitting the noise to them or is it mostly stopping me from hearing their noise?
Hey @Sorellla, It is easier to treat the noise at source, you will have to do far less soundproofing your side to reduce your noise going to the neighbours, maybe the ceiling, floor and direct noise path of the party wall, flanking walls and hollow voids….for the neighbours hearing Loud Saws and tools the neighbours would have to soundproof nearly every room of there house to reduce that noise that is in the structure. You need to reduce your noise getting into the structure of the building…which might mean soundproofing one room really well. Not sure how to do that in a rented property though….maybe a soundproof booth creating a room within a room. Hope that helps 👍
Hi great video, I am looking to reduce the noise from a saniflow waste extraction pump my neighbour has fitted in their recently installed en-suite. We have a 1930s semi and their en-suite is in the alcove on the party wall so is clearly audible in both our main bedrooms and also the living and dining rooms below. What would you recommend to reduce the sound to a minimum?
Hi @theHotstepper76, thanks for the comment, I think you are going to need something like this in the alcoves: th-cam.com/video/JUdjtpa2ik0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cWbz53Tvaw4J2qYE The soundproof wall system to the alcoves would need to be joined up between the alcoves downstairs and the alcoves upstairs. However there are two key things I would recommend to do to reduce that pump noise. 1. Every hollow void in the main bedroom and loft and living and dining room needs to be insulated with a RW3 like we show you in the course and videos. (Floors, ceilings, stud walls and boxing) 2. Need to apply that M20AD rubber I bang on about all the time to alcoves and chimney stack and any flanking wall you are hearing the pump noise. Does not matter what system you put on the wall, unless you do those two things it will still come through. Assuming you can’t pay your neighbour to decouple the pump from the structure with a piece of rubber? Thanks very much for watching, hope that helps and let us know how you get on.
Great video, thanks! I have a renovation 3 bed semi, I'm looking to soundproof two adjoining walls (lounge and main bed), I also have access to cavity between ground floor ceiling and 1st floor floor (ground floor floor is solid concrete, no void). I'm looking to utilise one of the low thickness options as I don't have much space - the house is 1950's 100mm cavity wall build but I don't believe there is a cavity in the adjoining wall. I have the option to build onto the existing good plaster finish or remove back to bare brick - which option would you recommend? Thanks!
Ah thanks very much mate, and thanks for your question too…go straight over the good solid plaster. Only remove back to brickwork if you have hollow voids like drywall or dot and dab technique. Here is a bedroom wall being soundproofed: DIY Soundproofing walls from noisy neighbours th-cam.com/video/4Utchs-ZA6I/w-d-xo.html
Hi Jim.... thanks for all the videos. System 5, what thickness anti vibration pads for the battens that fix direct to the wall and where can you get them from?
Hey John, they are 15mm thick but compress to 5mm when you fit them behind the battens. We often use off cuts of heavy duty acoustic underlays. Most cost effective way for you would be to either make them yourself with carpet underlay and mass loaded vinyl….or purchase a sheet of acoustic heavy duty underlay. They all supply it, try soundproofingshop.com Hope that helps 👍
Can you attach things like radiators to the 50mm solution using the dbx board? How would you avoid sand coming out of the boards when attaching the rad brackets?
Hi @Grangey, Yes you can put anything you want on a new soundproofed wall. As you are probably aware by now soundproofing is not always straightforward and the right techniques to use will depend on your specific property and noise issue. In the video’s I try to give some general installation advice to help homeowners and DIYers avoid the most common soundproofing mistakes. I wish I could fit everything you need to know in detail into a 10min video or 60 min webinar but unfortunately it’s not really possible.. hence the DIY soundproofing course offering. With the online course I can show you the how to’s in much greater detail including exactly how to position radiation brackets depending on what wall system and materials you are using or what wall surface. Including where to put the screws, what size screws and how to prevent sand coming out. You also get the opportunity to have an accountability session with me to make your plan of action for your specific property and noise issue. If the course is not for you there is also the opportunity to just have virtual installation support from me to ask questions as you carryout your installation. See the work with me link above. Sorry if that sounds a bit salesy, hopefully by now you will know that I am genuinely passionate about helping people reduce the noise in their home and want to give you the best advice I can which is why I created these offerings to allow me to do that….if I get enough questions on the subject then I will make a video on it. Thanks for your comment 🙏
Hi Eddierocket2010, yes we have a whole online course called: The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course, it has step by step lessons on how to install every layer of a range of different soundproof wall, ceiling and floor systems. The videos I share of professional installations give useful insights but the course breaks it down into step by step detailed lessons with load of useful tools and materials calculations and discounts. i would consider registering for my soundproofing masterclass, which is free to attend and what is quite refreshing, there is nothing to buy at the end…it’s pure content and I hope you get value from it. Thanks very much again for your question….let us know how you get on.
Hi this is a really good video thank you, I just have a question if the chimney is still in use can I use the number 6/7 method there? is it safe to put rubber mat on the chimney breast? and if the room is the first floor bedroom do I need to soundproof the floor and ceiling as well or just around the party wall?
Hey Gazaantal3916, Thanks very much for watching glad you are getting value from my content. Such a great question, thanks for bringing this up…If the flue is lined or 150mm away from the rubber then yes you can use the rubber on the chimney stack. If not use metal studs. Any Heatas registered engineers reading this will be able to help me out and correct me on this, but here in the UK we can not use anything combustible within 150mm of the flue for a used chimney. There is a detailed lesson on this on the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing course. With the bedroom check this video out: th-cam.com/video/4Utchs-ZA6I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ABdjFfu7M27yKyRt With regards to the bedroom, most of the time yes, to get that soundproofing of a detached house yes you need to tuck the system down, treat the floor, loft and flanking walls and sometimes the walls in other rooms. (I explain in next weeks video); However; do the ear on the wall test and test the flanking walls in that bedroom. Next time the neighbours are playing music…being loud and making noise, put your finger in one ear and the other ear on the flanking walls and listen….what do you hear? Might be the same volume next to the party wall but only slight the other side of the window wall…maybe watch the first part of this video again to see what you can put on these flanking walls. Hope that helps, great questions….please let us know how you get on. Also I’m running a SOUNDPROOFING MASTERCLASS real soon, look out for the email if you on the waiting list for the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course….what is quite refreshing is there is nothing to buy at the end, its pure content to help DIYers.
Hi Jim, thanks for the very informative video. I have been soundproofing a party wall and need to deal with a flanking wall that has a steel lintel which seems to run the entire length of the wall. The problem is that it is some type of Catnic box lintel which is hollow, and the only access to inside are small holes about 1x0.5cm on a section of the underside (doorway). The sides of the lintel are solid with no holes. Obviously filling it with something would be highly preferable but as you can imagine that is incredibly difficult. The easiest would be spray foam - closed cell fire rated which could make noise worse(?), or open cell which may improve it(?) but probably a bad idea for a lintel as not fired rated and not moisture resistant. Getting mineral wool inside would difficult, time consuming and no guarentee to actuall fill it. Something you have come across before or any thoughts on what to do?
Hi Gray, Great question and thank you for your comment, Don’t over think this one, sound deaden it with the 10kg/m2 self adhesive TecSound…(will need the contact adhesive as well: (Spray contact adhesive bit.ly/3s82pjv ) I would not use either expanding foam as the sound will transmit more easily through that than air. If you have the space available to 20mm rubber and 1 or maybe 2 x layers of 15mm sound bloc over the catnic lintel that would be brilliant. Here check this video out: How to Soundproof an RSJ? #diysoundproofing th-cam.com/users/shortsLTCJfzz5Cr8?feature=share Hope that helps, let us know how you get on 👍
@@jimprior7 Thanks Jim. I have bought that contact adhesive before, I think from one of your links, and I would recommend it to anyone who's not sure whether to get it. I have tried various ones similarly priced or higher from decent brands you can find on Amazon, and the one on PCDSales visibly has much higher solids content (the actual adhesive) so less spraying needed and less nasty stuff in the air.
Hi Jim, many thanks for all the great videos, they have been most helpful. I've also recently attended one of your webinars and that was very informative. Just one question about the positioning of the rockwool in the floating frame. It looks like in one of your videos you fix the rubber to the wall and then build a 75mm stud frame 25mm away from the wall and then use 100mm of RW3 pushed all the way back to the rubber. Is it ok to not leave an air gap when rubber is attached to the wall and you only need an air gap when no rubber is fitted? Cheers Ian
Hi Ian, thanks for your comments, it’s great to know that you have found the youtube videos useful and I am really pleased you got value from the Soundproofing Masterclass. To answer your question …yes but it depends. .. As you are probably aware by now soundproofing is not always straightforward and the right combination of techniques to use will depend on your specific property and noise issue. In the video’s I try to give some general installation advice to help homeowners and DIYers avoid the most common soundproofing mistakes. I wish I could fit everything you need to know in detail into a 10min video or 60min webinar but unfortunately it’s not really possible... hence the DIY Soundproofing Course offering. With the online course I can show you the how to’s in much greater detail including exactly how to position the rockwool, where to put the screws etc. You also get the opportunity to have an accountability session with me to make your plan of action for your specific property and noise issue. If the course is not for you there is also the opportunity to just have virtual installation support from me to ask questions as you carryout your installation. See the work with me link above. Sorry if that sounds a bit salesy, hopefully by now you will know that I am genuinely passionate about helping people reduce the noise in their home and want to give you the best advice I can which is why I created these offerings to allow me to do that.
Hi Jim. Excellent video, thank you. I am looking to tackle a solid brick plastered party wall (1950s UK terrace house) which airborne sound is the problem (conversation namely). Before installing any of the systems included in your video I will plaster the same brickwork wall in the ceiling joist zone and loft zone and floor joist zone as I understand this helps terminate air gaps through the brickwork (and would create a level substrate for one of your systems). Is this a correct approach?
Hi @Cagstok, Thanks very much for your comment, yes that is a very nice way of doing it. Sometimes we have to do that when the render is thick to avoid a discrepancy or step in the layers. Taking the time to render these areas will save you time during the installation. When the render is thinner, we go straight over it.
Hi @Annavariumful, thanks for your question, here I’m referring to a LB3 bracket that sits between the joist making it the thinnest clip and channel system on the market. In the video we are using a Mute clip version. The Original LB3 bracket is made by Genie Clip. I go into a lot more detail in this video: 7 Ways to Soundproof a Ceiling th-cam.com/video/0OSrzTPM1cw/w-d-xo.html Are you base in the UK? I might be able to suggest a similar product depending on where you are in the world. Thanks for watching 🙏
@@jimprior7 Hi, thank you for the reply. I'm in Australia. The clip looked really robust with a significant isolation pad, and going off the bearer I think I'll pick up a little head room. I'll have a look at your other video. Thanks again!!
I keep coming back to this video, good stuff. I think one reason people shy away from resilient bars is because it's easy to make a mistake, zip a screw through and compromise the system. IMO, clip and channels are a bit more decoupled and more sturdy. Did you ever have a problem where the rubber comes off the wall from the adhesive failing?... seems like a LOT of weight for adhesive to hold up, especially as more time passes.
Hey @JP5466, That’s awesome, I’m glad so many people are getting value from this. You should watch The 7 Ways to Soundproof a Ceiling video, even though it’s your walls you are trying to soundproof, the ceiling video gives good insights into resilient bars and clips and channel installations. 7 Ways to Soundproof a Ceiling th-cam.com/video/0OSrzTPM1cw/w-d-xo.html We find that the clips and channels are great but will require a traditional stud frame fixed to the structure in the traditional way…. therefore not as decoupled as our floating frame and resilient bars that we show you in the Noise-Free DIY Soundproofing Course. No, never had a problem with the rubber coming off the wall and therefore offer a 10 year guarantee with all of our installations. You absolutely MUST however install it how we show you in the course with the two different types of contact adhesive. I like to think the TH-cam videos are good insights but we show detailed step by step lessons on how to install the systems on the Noise-Free DIY Soundproofing course. Also, we are running a 48hrs halloween special offer on the Noise-Free DIY Soundproofing Course. MAKE SURE YOU ARE REGISTERED BECAUSE IF YOU ARE NOT REGISTERED YOU WILL NOT RECEIVE THE OFFER. If you are in the UK here is a link to the Spray contact adhesive bit.ly/3s82pjv Hope that helps Thanks for watching.
Hey @@tomnoble27, here is the link to register: jimprior.com/diycourse/ If you have registered for the course you will get an email when the offer is sent out at the end of the month. It will be first come first serve, as you know we limit the number of intakes to ensure everyone gets maximum value.👍 Many Thanks
@@tomnoble27 Hey @tomnoble27 , here is the link to register: jimprior.com/diycourse/ If you have registered for the course you will get an email when the offer is sent out at the end of the month. It will be first come first serve, as you know we limit the number of intakes to ensure everyone gets maximum value.👍 Many Thanks
Hi Jim, thanks for all of your soundproofing content, It's been by far the most informative! I am building out a floating wall system using 70mm metal studs on isolation strips top and bottom as we have a concrete floor (20mm air gap from party wall which has been taken back to brick), filled with 75mm RW5, topped with 2x15mm Knauf DB boards with SY100 sandwiched between the 2 boards. Would this still be pretty effective against loud neighbour conversations, kids screaming and a dog barking? I fully appreciate every scenario is different but just want to know if I'm on the right track as I am trying my best not to lose too much space. Thanks in advance
Hi Sukh, Thanks very much for your question, and thanks for watching, glad you are getting value from the insights I share on the videos. We build the floating frame using timber with pressure and anti-vibration pads to minimise the fixings to the structure, not sure you can get that with the metal studs. The metal stud are useful if you have to use non combustible materials, but we find the metal studs create wall shudder, therefore we do not use them in any kind of setting where recording or testing is required such as audiology rooms and listening rooms and cinema rooms. Metal studs also allow the sound to transmit across the frame more easily (3 times more easily) then timber and you have to be very careful not to channel the noise into the upstairs rooms. Is there a reason you are using metal studs? To answer your question, if you are not sound deadening the wall first and not treating any of the other noise paths, I think you will reduce the higher frequencies of noise and the overall noise reduction will feel like 40% reduction if you are stood in front of this new wall. You will still hear dog barking, screaming kids and low frequency male voices. I would recommend sound deadening the wall with a 20mm rubber first, use resilient bars and an RW3 insulation. If the Rockwool is too dense it will just channel the noise into hollow voids and into the structure of your house and bridge the gap between your upright studs and joists etc. Are you on the right track….i would register for my soundproofing masterclass, which is free to attend and what is quite refreshing, there is nothing to buy at the end…it’s pure content and I hope you get value from it. Thanks very much again for your question….let us know what you decide to go for in the end. MasterClass Advert: th-cam.com/video/YIWMJrBbXnA/w-d-xo.html What is the masterclass and how do I attend: jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/
@@jimprior7 Thanks Jim, as i'm trying to keep the thickness down, would attaching 10kg/m MLV direct to the offending wall work? As we removed the chimney stack the wall is not exactly in the best shape so using the baton to wall method might not be so easy to get straight, and so I'll be using a wood floating frame and RW3 instead given your feedback.
We are experiencing outside noise and impact noise down the side of our house. Would you recommend system number 4 for the flanking walls? We would be looking at clip and channel for the direct noise path we think
Hey Reese, thank you very much for your question. System 4 would be best to sound deaden the light weight thermalite blocks, a clip and channel system would need to go on a floating frame after you have sound deadened the wall, otherwise you may channel that noise to the bedroom above, especially if your house is a new build. Remember Reducing impact noise is never just the direct noise path. The impact noise of kids running around in the alley way between the detached houses is coming into your lounge through a number of noise paths. Here are a couple of 1min shorts 👇that might be useful. th-cam.com/users/shortsI_kh99Ohvvs?si=J735uZN2_jgiou4_ Also this short which you may have seen already: th-cam.com/users/shortsQ-CvdeA9m7s?si=JBvyCBmVtQm7rBDr Hope that helps, thanks for your question
@@ReeseBayley I think you should give it a go yourselves, jump on the next intake of the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course, it has step by step video lessons on each of the layers of the different system. At least you will be following a tried and tested soundproofing methodology taught to you by professional award wining installers. You can do it at your own pace it's an on demand course. Give me a call if you want. 👍
@@jimprior7 Hi Jim, unfortunately not. Would love to but on a budget so hoping for some cheeky free advice to solve my noisy neighbors that have moved in. 😁 would love to if i could afford it.
@@johncanter9575 Hi John, Ok its difficult to explain over TH-cam comments, because there are lots of different approaches to tucking it up or down depending on your property age and the construction...My Videos are just insights into soundproofing homes, they don't go into that much detail of the actual installations and we are careful what we show as these are real peoples homes. It really is important to go that extra mile and tuck the system up and down because it can be the difference between you hearing your neighbours or not after. I do offer installation support and renovation advice if the course is not for you. jimprior.com/work-with-me/
Hi Jim, i noticed in system number 5 (battened wall) the mineral wool is in contact with the party wall (or tecsound layer) but in the floating wall system it isn’t, is there any benefit to that or does it not make much difference?
Hi James, Thanks very much for your comment: The floating frame offers a significant reduction in low frequency noise and some impact noise because its isolation from the structure. Soundproof wall system 5 with the battens fixed to the wall with anti-vibration pads will offer only 50% on those impact noises and a bit more on the lower frequencies. What is you noise problem?....If you are hearing dogs barking, low frequency bass music, foot steps, clonks and clangs and doors banging for example then you are better taking the space loss with the floating frame on the direct noise path…..but remember you need to follow the 4 step method to get a good result…..it’s never just the party wall. This video we used the floating frame downstairs, and the batten system upstairs in the bedroom: th-cam.com/video/CR7ZtJ3fI2c/w-d-xo.html Great question, thanks again.
In your example the floor joists run perpendicular to the party wall. This is not the case for me, they run parallel to the wall. If I were to cut back the floor to tuck in the wall I would be damaging the structural support of the floor. Is there a way to solve this issue? I don't have access below as both spaces are finished areas. Thanks for the excellent videos.
Hi Jason, Thanks very much for your comment. There are a number of options and they are all featured in lessons on The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course (next intake second week of June 2024). Your awesome question and probably demands its own video…but I will try and answer it here. Assuming you are not comfortable moving the joist over because it will disrupt the room downstairs: - You could go over or past the joists using a thicker soundproof wall system, this would allow you to tuck the system down and seal the layers to the ceiling below. - To support the floor boards and renew the structural integrity of the floor, install a joists trimmer using noggins and a new piece of timber the same thickness as your floor joists…I will feature this in my next video -part 2 of this video: th-cam.com/video/VUMj_PrZG1c/w-d-xo.html
- If you require a large load bearing next to the party wall, then install a new joist along side the existing would be best option (the ceiling board below won’t need to be connected to this) - If less of a load bearing is required and especially if the joists are close together you could fix 4 x 2 timber to the next joists to reduce the span of the floorboards. Please forgive me I have not seen your project, but hopefully this makes sense. Thanks again for your great question, less us know how you get on
Hello, I want to create a soundproofing wall for a part wall, I'm thinking to use rockwool accustic extra, tecsound SY70 and 2-3 layers of accustic drywall. But I'm not sure where it's better to put the tecsound, directly on the party wall or between the drywall layers?
Hi Gabriel, that is a good question, I would use the TecSound SY100 Self Adhesive on the party wall directly if you can. Make sure it’s not plasterboard on the party wall. (Always remove that first) If you can get a layer of TecSound between one of those layers of acoustic drywall as well as sound deaden the party wall with it as well, that would also be good. If you had to choose party wall or between the board for the TecSound….because you already have 2-3 layers of mass with the acoustic drywall….I would go for the party wall and sound dead it first with the TecSound. Hope that helps. Great Questions. Here is a video of us using it: th-cam.com/video/rs8ITTvKh8I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1E8_EfA2moOuohI0
Are there more ways to pinpoint where the sound is coming from besides putting your ears to the wall? Do you have a video on this topic? I can hear my neighbor upstairs but when I try putting my ears on the wall I feel like I can hear the sound on every wall 😅 Not sure if this means I'm going to need to isolate the roof and all walls or if I'm just not finding where the main issue is.
Hey @AMVaddictionist, that is a very good point, some new build properties have a lot hollow walls and you can hear the noise on every wall in the house. You might need to install sound insulation to everyone of those noise paths to get a good reduction in noise. By doing this simple test has showed you that soundproofing the direct noise path alone say the separating party wall....or separating floor alone if they are above you will be a waste on money.... it may change how you hear the noise....but it will still come through. What type of property do you have? Do you have an apartment? If so this is a good video for you: 7 Ways to Soundproof a Ceiling th-cam.com/video/0OSrzTPM1cw/w-d-xo.html Thanks very much for watching
At the beginning of the video you seem to say the clip and channel systems outperform resilient bars. If so, would you consider building a floating frame and then using clips on top of that? Also, have you ever considered using clips to fix the floating frame in place, instead of the rubber pads? Cheers
Thanks very much, great question. The reason we do not use clips and channels on our floating frame is because the channels move too much between the clips, where a resilient bars is fixed to the frame. The frame is sometimes only screwed in a couple of places on the head plate and sole plate and often glued or sometimes with the right property, no fixings and just pressure and the pads. (That’s 19 years’ experience of installing it though to do that!) Resilient bars are also only 17mm space loss keeping the floating frame system at 175mm. Using the clip and channels will take the wall system over 200mm, but yes if you have that space available it would be better….just make sure the frame is secure and not completely floating so you don’t end up with too much movement in your wall. Have you seen this video yet: DIY Soundproofing - Step by step th-cam.com/video/7OdKIEmpbWM/w-d-xo.html Are you looking to install a floating frame for your project? What kind of noise problem do you have?
So if you have too much movement in the wall, what's the problem caused? Is it that the plasterboard will crack? That other video is great thanks. I'm looking to install a very thorough system to a Victorian semi bedroom. Joists run parallel to the party wall. Walls are mixture of original lime plaster and sections of newer stuff. Removing some plaster has revealed a lot of holes in the mortar, some 20cm deep!
Hey @JP5466, No I have not ever used lead, but funny you should say that because we are currently building a soundproof safe room at the moment and today we were building the walls of the safe room. The specialist walling we are installing has reinforced steel sheets…very heavy. We had to reinforce the floor joists to take the load bearing of the wall alone. I’m sure the lead would be similar….not very practical for residential but great for a soundproof garden room studio. Not sure how the heavy duty walling will react to noise yet….we will find out tomorrow. I think we are going to have to sound deaden them with TecSound. Thanks for your comment 🙏
@@jimprior7 Interesting.. good luck with that. I've constructed 2'x4' panels using 1/16" lead sheets glued to 3/4" plywood. I sealed up my bedroom window with them to block loud bass music from cars passing by. I tried many things previously, but this is the best thing I've done to reduce/block low frequencies.
@@JP5466 Cool, thanks for sharing....did you leave an air gap between the glazing and your lead panels? We find when we install our acoustic secondary glazing, we get a better results by creating a 75mm to 100mm air gap between the existing glazing and the new secondary glazing ....and then install something in the gap to stop the sound resonating.
@@jimprior7 There are 4 panels total. I layered 2 completed panels on top of each other with 3-4" inches of space in between and fill it with rockwool. One set of panels is attached to the inner frame and the other set is attached outside the frame. Sealed it all with acoustic calk. The entire thing weighs 200lbs, but it blocks out low frequencies very well. The lead itself weight 120lbs. Mass baby!
A data sheet for the M20 rubber panels recommends mechanical fixings, is this a definite no-no? I'm a bit concerned about the integrity of the plaster I'd be adhering on to. Are the panels known by any other names, can't seem to find suppliers in Ireland.
Hi @tirconaill, we use mechanical fixings with the 50mm system. Also if you have dusty old brickwork. Still use the two different types of adhesive for that resilient layer and fix it in the way we show you in the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course. When you purchase them from the builders merchants the panels are sometimes called RR20. I know Travis Perkins call them RR20. Hope that helps 👍Spray contact adhesive bit.ly/3s82pjv
Hi Jim, quick question... Would you be able to advise what would be an approx. difference between 50mm thick RW3 insulation & 100mm thick RW3 insulation in terms of dB improvement. If I were to use 50mm thick but denser insulation (e.g. 80kg/m3 or 100kg/m3) would that achieve similar results to 100mm thick 60kg/m3 rockwool? Thanks in advance
Hi @Edgix10, That is a really interesting soundproofing question. To be honest I’m not sure of the dB difference between 100mm and 50mm Rockwool. This is mainly because it depends how you are using it. In a residential setting, the db reduction value is kind of irrelevant unless you apply the same rockwool system to the ceiling, floor and all the walls perpendicular to the separating party wall…..and check for any holes in the structure first. With regards to the density of the Rockwool insulation I recommend the RW3 (60kg/m3) because it’s not too dense that when you install it between joists it will bridge the gap. It is difficult to pack it in tool tight if you cut it too big. The different densities will tackle different frequencies of noise. For DIYers and builders I always recommend the RW3 (60kg/m3) because it is more readily available and it does a wide range of frequencies we hear from neighbours and easy to use. Here this video might help a bit: th-cam.com/video/IZAKD4kJvlU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Zb_VHqeuhZ1HtbSU Hope that helps….what is you noise problem and where are you plaining to use it?
@@jimprior7 Thanks for the response. I'm planning to soundproof my party wall to reduce low bass from my neighbors. I'll be soundproofing the ceiling with 100mm RW3 and soundbloc plasterboard, flanking walls with TPS65W system and party wall with isolated frame system - M20AD directly to the wall / 15mm gap / 50mm stud frame and RW3 / MLV / resilient bars / 15mm SBX / 15mm Soundbloc.
Hey Kenneth, thanks for your question, the best solution for you would be floating frame, which we show you in the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course. It sound deadens the wall and then has a 25mm isolation gap from the wall and the structure, which will be best for the different frequencies a washing machine gives off....but also helps with the impact noise when the washing machine is on spin. Consider the floor too, a lot of the noise will be vibrating through the floor and you might want to consider and floating floor and even anti-vibration pads under washing machines... if you have access to those washing machines.
@@paultaylor7479 Need to be a corky type of rubber like these: www.soundservice.co.uk/M20.html or www.floorscan.co.uk/product/m20-rubber-sheets/ or soundproofingshop.com/acoustic-boards/m20-rubber-panel?_gl=1*1m37jeb*_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwmrqzBhAoEiwAXVpgosRZaYcg54a8wofv13nHxCLqBy6jFfyxmQWf48EKutwWEpxtunsU7xoCfZQQAvD_BwE
A local soundproofing company to me says they offer an "Independent Wall" solution, which I think is the same as method 6 in this video. However, they do not say that they remove the existing plasterboard wall first. They build the new timber frame on top of the existing plasterboard wall. Is this a red flag?
wow! 🤯yes big red flag ....No it will not be a floating frame they will offer,. What they offer will be isolated from the party wall only, clips and channels with TecSound and 2 layers of 15mm board installed to the channels.....make sure you get a page of references of who they have work for and actually phone those people up and ask them what reduction in noise they got....seems simple but amazing how many people don't do this. Here check this video out: How Much does soundproofing costs? th-cam.com/video/eGRSOjyR2Ds/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LnPE6jGs0m2Q-ZdC
Hey Mark, actually….this is the most expensive soundproofing 😂: check this out… th-cam.com/video/CR7ZtJ3fI2c/w-d-xo.html It only takes a slight bit of noise to come through for you to feel unsettled, uncomfortable in your home and feel like moving. This is what so many homeowners find when they just treat the party wall alone. Thanks very much for your comment and watching 🙏
ALL MLV are EXPENSIVE and Crap ! Best things to use for blocking sound are Exterior Rockwool Slabs directly onto the party-wall topped off with as as many that are needed 8' x 4' sheets of SoundBlock Gypsum. I found two staggered layers of soundblock on top of the Exterior Rockwool Slabs best in my house, no more noise and THEY were Loud people ! Rockwool also have sound-block type of slabs but They are not as Good as the Exterior slabs.
@@johncanter9575 Rockwool I fixed to the bare walls using penny-washers and hammer-in-fixings ( the cheaper version of Fischer fixings)...4 in each rockwool slab about 2inches in from each corner. Soundblock fixed to the rockwool exterior slabs using patches of 2-3 inches deep BY 5 inches or so in diameter, of bonding plaster (white and purple bag)friend... about 12 patches per 8'x4' sheet.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
by far the best video i've seen on the topic, thanks for sharing these methods. subbed + getting the book
Hi @onlyfriendyeah, Thanks very much for your kind words, this is my latest video, 7 Ways to Soundproof a Ceiling
th-cam.com/video/0OSrzTPM1cw/w-d-xo.html
which I think is pack full of more useful tips:
Many Thanks for you comment
Great explanation! Have you any experience or have an opinion of reducing the Rockwool thickness from 100mm down to say 50mm? Thus with option 6 (175mm) or option 7 (185mm) the space required would be 125mm or 135mm? Thank you
Thanks very much for watching, so glad you got value from it, it is a great question. It is not something we have tested in residential homes. However some bespoke projects we have done similar things. The main reason we build the floating frame like we show you in the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course is because of the load bearing. The frame is built with pressure and anti-vibration pads giving superior isolation and decoupling compared to the traditional stud frames. I think you could use a 2 x 2 timber and a 50mm RW3 but to take the load bearing you would have to secure the timber to the flanking walls, ceiling and floor and maybe even put noggins in a few places like a traditional stud frame. Saying that I am really intrigued to see how you get on.
I have a couple of things for you….the first is The Soundproofing Masterclass I am running really soon….here is the link: jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/
And also...Check this video out: it show the thicker system and the thiner system joining between the upstairs bedroom and the downstairs lounge: th-cam.com/video/CR7ZtJ3fI2c/w-d-xo.htmlsi=J1fAznh04oB6twLp
Hi. Amazing videos, mate. I'm very impressed about your job 👌. Keep doing it 👍
Been searching for videos about Floating frame installation, but can't find it on your channel 😕
Can you please, paste mi the link , here?
Best regards ✨️
Hi @mateusz4735 , glad you are enjoying the videos, thanks very much for your comment, much appreciated. We give step by step lessons on all the different layers the Floating Frame and all the other soundproof wall systems, soundproof floors and soundproof ceilings on the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course. There is actually a lot to it, which is why there a few lessons on each different layer. This video is about as much detail I go into on TH-cam: th-cam.com/video/7OdKIEmpbWM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4uO8hAO3ejLHd35I
Hope that helps. Please let me know how you get on with your soundproofing, what type of house you have and your noise problem? Thanks again for your comment
Hey Jim! Great video, thank you for sharing those tips, do you have any links for the panel you recommended with the anti vibrational matting panel?
Hi HdramaTran, thanks very much, glad you are getting value from them. Not really, have a look through some of my TH-cam video descriptions, some suppliers have sponsored videos and we have included their links. Also might be worth a Google of ‘M20AD’ and you will find a lot of places supply it.
Hope that helps 🙏
I’ve only started looking into solutions for our noise issues, but to help me focus my efforts, are there affordable, preferably DIY, solutions that can be attached directly to an existing plasterboarded stud wall without removing the existing sheets of plasterboard?
Hey Oneiros88, great question, thanks for your comment.
Absolute not no, a hollow stud wall can be a main cause of the noise. Going over the top like some soundproofing material suppliers suggest…will channel the noise into the hollow floor, hollow ceiling void and into the structure.
Check this installation case study out: th-cam.com/video/u7GUZHIOyuw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1Rd7VzMYYMen2qKT
Bottom line is, the sound is resonating in that plasterboard wall and you need to open it up and insulate the hollow void to stop the sound resonating….and then go over the top of it.
Hope that helps
Let us know how you get on
JP
What would I need to do to stop my neighbours from hearing me (sounds of saws and tool) from a room on a partying wall? will insulating the flanking walls actually stop them from transmitting the noise to them or is it mostly stopping me from hearing their noise?
Hey @Sorellla, It is easier to treat the noise at source, you will have to do far less soundproofing your side to reduce your noise going to the neighbours, maybe the ceiling, floor and direct noise path of the party wall, flanking walls and hollow voids….for the neighbours hearing Loud Saws and tools the neighbours would have to soundproof nearly every room of there house to reduce that noise that is in the structure.
You need to reduce your noise getting into the structure of the building…which might mean soundproofing one room really well.
Not sure how to do that in a rented property though….maybe a soundproof booth creating a room within a room.
Hope that helps 👍
Hi great video, I am looking to reduce the noise from a saniflow waste extraction pump my neighbour has fitted in their recently installed en-suite. We have a 1930s semi and their en-suite is in the alcove on the party wall so is clearly audible in both our main bedrooms and also the living and dining rooms below.
What would you recommend to reduce the sound to a minimum?
Hi @theHotstepper76, thanks for the comment, I think you are going to need something like this in the alcoves: th-cam.com/video/JUdjtpa2ik0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cWbz53Tvaw4J2qYE
The soundproof wall system to the alcoves would need to be joined up between the alcoves downstairs and the alcoves upstairs.
However there are two key things I would recommend to do to reduce that pump noise.
1. Every hollow void in the main bedroom and loft and living and dining room needs to be insulated with a RW3 like we show you in the course and videos. (Floors, ceilings, stud walls and boxing)
2. Need to apply that M20AD rubber I bang on about all the time to alcoves and chimney stack and any flanking wall you are hearing the pump noise.
Does not matter what system you put on the wall, unless you do those two things it will still come through.
Assuming you can’t pay your neighbour to decouple the pump from the structure with a piece of rubber?
Thanks very much for watching, hope that helps and let us know how you get on.
Great video, thanks! I have a renovation 3 bed semi, I'm looking to soundproof two adjoining walls (lounge and main bed), I also have access to cavity between ground floor ceiling and 1st floor floor (ground floor floor is solid concrete, no void). I'm looking to utilise one of the low thickness options as I don't have much space - the house is 1950's 100mm cavity wall build but I don't believe there is a cavity in the adjoining wall. I have the option to build onto the existing good plaster finish or remove back to bare brick - which option would you recommend? Thanks!
Ah thanks very much mate, and thanks for your question too…go straight over the good solid plaster. Only remove back to brickwork if you have hollow voids like drywall or dot and dab technique. Here is a bedroom wall being soundproofed: DIY Soundproofing walls from noisy neighbours
th-cam.com/video/4Utchs-ZA6I/w-d-xo.html
Hi Jim.... thanks for all the videos. System 5, what thickness anti vibration pads for the battens that fix direct to the wall and where can you get them from?
Hey John, they are 15mm thick but compress to 5mm when you fit them behind the battens. We often use off cuts of heavy duty acoustic underlays. Most cost effective way for you would be to either make them yourself with carpet underlay and mass loaded vinyl….or purchase a sheet of acoustic heavy duty underlay. They all supply it, try soundproofingshop.com
Hope that helps 👍
@@jimprior7 Brilliant... thanks so much Jim 👍
Can you attach things like radiators to the 50mm solution using the dbx board? How would you avoid sand coming out of the boards when attaching the rad brackets?
Hi @Grangey, Yes you can put anything you want on a new soundproofed wall.
As you are probably aware by now soundproofing is not always straightforward and the right techniques to use will depend on your specific property and noise issue.
In the video’s I try to give some general installation advice to help homeowners and DIYers avoid the most common soundproofing mistakes. I wish I could fit everything you need to know in detail into a 10min video or 60 min webinar but unfortunately it’s not really possible.. hence the DIY soundproofing course offering.
With the online course I can show you the how to’s in much greater detail including exactly how to position radiation brackets depending on what wall system and materials you are using or what wall surface. Including where to put the screws, what size screws and how to prevent sand coming out.
You also get the opportunity to have an accountability session with me to make your plan of action for your specific property and noise issue.
If the course is not for you there is also the opportunity to just have virtual installation support from me to ask questions as you carryout your installation. See the work with me link above.
Sorry if that sounds a bit salesy, hopefully by now you will know that I am genuinely passionate about helping people reduce the noise in their home and want to give you the best advice I can which is why I created these offerings to allow me to do that….if I get enough questions on the subject then I will make a video on it.
Thanks for your comment 🙏
Hi. Do you have a video showing how to fix the 20mm rubber to the walls? Thanks
Hi Eddierocket2010, yes we have a whole online course called: The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course, it has step by step lessons on how to install every layer of a range of different soundproof wall, ceiling and floor systems. The videos I share of professional installations give useful insights but the course breaks it down into step by step detailed lessons with load of useful tools and materials calculations and discounts.
i would consider registering for my soundproofing masterclass, which is free to attend and what is quite refreshing, there is nothing to buy at the end…it’s pure content and I hope you get value from it.
Thanks very much again for your question….let us know how you get on.
Hi this is a really good video thank you, I just have a question if the chimney is still in use can I use the number 6/7 method there? is it safe to put rubber mat on the chimney breast? and if the room is the first floor bedroom do I need to soundproof the floor and ceiling as well or just around the party wall?
Hey Gazaantal3916, Thanks very much for watching glad you are getting value from my content. Such a great question, thanks for bringing this up…If the flue is lined or 150mm away from the rubber then yes you can use the rubber on the chimney stack. If not use metal studs. Any Heatas registered engineers reading this will be able to help me out and correct me on this, but here in the UK we can not use anything combustible within 150mm of the flue for a used chimney. There is a detailed lesson on this on the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing course.
With the bedroom check this video out: th-cam.com/video/4Utchs-ZA6I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ABdjFfu7M27yKyRt
With regards to the bedroom, most of the time yes, to get that soundproofing of a detached house yes you need to tuck the system down, treat the floor, loft and flanking walls and sometimes the walls in other rooms. (I explain in next weeks video);
However; do the ear on the wall test and test the flanking walls in that bedroom. Next time the neighbours are playing music…being loud and making noise, put your finger in one ear and the other ear on the flanking walls and listen….what do you hear? Might be the same volume next to the party wall but only slight the other side of the window wall…maybe watch the first part of this video again to see what you can put on these flanking walls.
Hope that helps, great questions….please let us know how you get on.
Also I’m running a SOUNDPROOFING MASTERCLASS real soon, look out for the email if you on the waiting list for the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course….what is quite refreshing is there is nothing to buy at the end, its pure content to help DIYers.
Hi Jim, thanks for the very informative video.
I have been soundproofing a party wall and need to deal with a flanking wall that has a steel lintel which seems to run the entire length of the wall. The problem is that it is some type of Catnic box lintel which is hollow, and the only access to inside are small holes about 1x0.5cm on a section of the underside (doorway). The sides of the lintel are solid with no holes.
Obviously filling it with something would be highly preferable but as you can imagine that is incredibly difficult. The easiest would be spray foam - closed cell fire rated which could make noise worse(?), or open cell which may improve it(?) but probably a bad idea for a lintel as not fired rated and not moisture resistant. Getting mineral wool inside would difficult, time consuming and no guarentee to actuall fill it.
Something you have come across before or any thoughts on what to do?
Hi Gray,
Great question and thank you for your comment,
Don’t over think this one, sound deaden it with the 10kg/m2 self adhesive TecSound…(will need the contact adhesive as well: (Spray contact adhesive
bit.ly/3s82pjv )
I would not use either expanding foam as the sound will transmit more easily through that than air.
If you have the space available to 20mm rubber and 1 or maybe 2 x layers of 15mm sound bloc over the catnic lintel that would be brilliant.
Here check this video out:
How to Soundproof an RSJ? #diysoundproofing
th-cam.com/users/shortsLTCJfzz5Cr8?feature=share
Hope that helps, let us know how you get on 👍
@@jimprior7 Thanks Jim. I have bought that contact adhesive before, I think from one of your links, and I would recommend it to anyone who's not sure whether to get it. I have tried various ones similarly priced or higher from decent brands you can find on Amazon, and the one on PCDSales visibly has much higher solids content (the actual adhesive) so less spraying needed and less nasty stuff in the air.
Hi Jim, many thanks for all the great videos, they have been most helpful. I've also recently attended one of your webinars and that was very informative. Just one question about the positioning of the rockwool in the floating frame. It looks like in one of your videos you fix the rubber to the wall and then build a 75mm stud frame 25mm away from the wall and then use 100mm of RW3 pushed all the way back to the rubber. Is it ok to not leave an air gap when rubber is attached to the wall and you only need an air gap when no rubber is fitted? Cheers Ian
Hi Ian, thanks for your comments, it’s great to know that you have found the youtube videos useful and I am really pleased you got value from the Soundproofing Masterclass. To answer your question …yes but it depends.
..
As you are probably aware by now soundproofing is not always straightforward and the right combination of techniques to use will depend on your specific property and noise issue. In the video’s I try to give some general installation advice to help homeowners and DIYers avoid the most common soundproofing mistakes. I wish I could fit everything you need to know in detail into a 10min video or 60min webinar but unfortunately it’s not really possible... hence the DIY Soundproofing Course offering.
With the online course I can show you the how to’s in much greater detail including exactly how to position the rockwool, where to put the screws etc. You also get the opportunity to have an accountability session with me to make your plan of action for your specific property and noise issue.
If the course is not for you there is also the opportunity to just have virtual installation support from me to ask questions as you carryout your installation. See the work with me link above.
Sorry if that sounds a bit salesy, hopefully by now you will know that I am genuinely passionate about helping people reduce the noise in their home and want to give you the best advice I can which is why I created these offerings to allow me to do that.
Hi Jim. Excellent video, thank you. I am looking to tackle a solid brick plastered party wall (1950s UK terrace house) which airborne sound is the problem (conversation namely). Before installing any of the systems included in your video I will plaster the same brickwork wall in the ceiling joist zone and loft zone and floor joist zone as I understand this helps terminate air gaps through the brickwork (and would create a level substrate for one of your systems). Is this a correct approach?
Hi @Cagstok,
Thanks very much for your comment, yes that is a very nice way of doing it. Sometimes we have to do that when the render is thick to avoid a discrepancy or step in the layers. Taking the time to render these areas will save you time during the installation. When the render is thinner, we go straight over it.
HI, at 10:19 you start talking about an acoustic clip and rail bracket. It there a product name / company name for this clip. I like it a lot.
Hi @Annavariumful, thanks for your question, here I’m referring to a LB3 bracket that sits between the joist making it the thinnest clip and channel system on the market. In the video we are using a Mute clip version. The Original LB3 bracket is made by Genie Clip. I go into a lot more detail in this video: 7 Ways to Soundproof a Ceiling
th-cam.com/video/0OSrzTPM1cw/w-d-xo.html
Are you base in the UK? I might be able to suggest a similar product depending on where you are in the world.
Thanks for watching 🙏
@@jimprior7 Hi, thank you for the reply. I'm in Australia. The clip looked really robust with a significant isolation pad, and going off the bearer I think I'll pick up a little head room. I'll have a look at your other video. Thanks again!!
I keep coming back to this video, good stuff.
I think one reason people shy away from resilient bars is because it's easy to make a mistake, zip a screw through and compromise the system. IMO, clip and channels are a bit more decoupled and more sturdy.
Did you ever have a problem where the rubber comes off the wall from the adhesive failing?... seems like a LOT of weight for adhesive to hold up, especially as more time passes.
Hey @JP5466,
That’s awesome, I’m glad so many people are getting value from this. You should watch The 7 Ways to Soundproof a Ceiling video, even though it’s your walls you are trying to soundproof, the ceiling video gives good insights into resilient bars and clips and channel installations.
7 Ways to Soundproof a Ceiling
th-cam.com/video/0OSrzTPM1cw/w-d-xo.html
We find that the clips and channels are great but will require a traditional stud frame fixed to the structure in the traditional way…. therefore not as decoupled as our floating frame and resilient bars that we show you in the Noise-Free DIY Soundproofing Course.
No, never had a problem with the rubber coming off the wall and therefore offer a 10 year guarantee with all of our installations. You absolutely MUST however install it how we show you in the course with the two different types of contact adhesive.
I like to think the TH-cam videos are good insights but we show detailed step by step lessons on how to install the systems on the Noise-Free DIY Soundproofing course.
Also, we are running a 48hrs halloween special offer on the Noise-Free DIY Soundproofing Course. MAKE SURE YOU ARE REGISTERED BECAUSE IF YOU ARE NOT REGISTERED YOU WILL NOT RECEIVE THE OFFER.
If you are in the UK here is a link to the Spray contact adhesive bit.ly/3s82pjv
Hope that helps
Thanks for watching.
@@jimprior7where do we register for this offer Jim?
Hey @@tomnoble27, here is the link to register: jimprior.com/diycourse/
If you have registered for the course you will get an email when the offer is sent out at the end of the month. It will be first come first serve, as you know we limit the number of intakes to ensure everyone gets maximum value.👍 Many Thanks
@@tomnoble27 Hey @tomnoble27 , here is the link to register: jimprior.com/diycourse/
If you have registered for the course you will get an email when the offer is sent out at the end of the month. It will be first come first serve, as you know we limit the number of intakes to ensure everyone gets maximum value.👍 Many Thanks
Hi Jim, thanks for all of your soundproofing content, It's been by far the most informative! I am building out a floating wall system using 70mm metal studs on isolation strips top and bottom as we have a concrete floor (20mm air gap from party wall which has been taken back to brick), filled with 75mm RW5, topped with 2x15mm Knauf DB boards with SY100 sandwiched between the 2 boards. Would this still be pretty effective against loud neighbour conversations, kids screaming and a dog barking? I fully appreciate every scenario is different but just want to know if I'm on the right track as I am trying my best not to lose too much space. Thanks in advance
Hi Sukh,
Thanks very much for your question, and thanks for watching, glad you are getting value from the insights I share on the videos.
We build the floating frame using timber with pressure and anti-vibration pads to minimise the fixings to the structure, not sure you can get that with the metal studs.
The metal stud are useful if you have to use non combustible materials, but we find the metal studs create wall shudder, therefore we do not use them in any kind of setting where recording or testing is required such as audiology rooms and listening rooms and cinema rooms.
Metal studs also allow the sound to transmit across the frame more easily (3 times more easily) then timber and you have to be very careful not to channel the noise into the upstairs rooms.
Is there a reason you are using metal studs?
To answer your question, if you are not sound deadening the wall first and not treating any of the other noise paths, I think you will reduce the higher frequencies of noise and the overall noise reduction will feel like 40% reduction if you are stood in front of this new wall. You will still hear dog barking, screaming kids and low frequency male voices.
I would recommend sound deadening the wall with a 20mm rubber first, use resilient bars and an RW3 insulation. If the Rockwool is too dense it will just channel the noise into hollow voids and into the structure of your house and bridge the gap between your upright studs and joists etc.
Are you on the right track….i would register for my soundproofing masterclass, which is free to attend and what is quite refreshing, there is nothing to buy at the end…it’s pure content and I hope you get value from it.
Thanks very much again for your question….let us know what you decide to go for in the end.
MasterClass Advert: th-cam.com/video/YIWMJrBbXnA/w-d-xo.html
What is the masterclass and how do I attend:
jimprior.com/soundproofing-masterclass-registration/
@@jimprior7 Thanks Jim, as i'm trying to keep the thickness down, would attaching 10kg/m MLV direct to the offending wall work? As we removed the chimney stack the wall is not exactly in the best shape so using the baton to wall method might not be so easy to get straight, and so I'll be using a wood floating frame and RW3 instead given your feedback.
We are experiencing outside noise and impact noise down the side of our house. Would you recommend system number 4 for the flanking walls?
We would be looking at clip and channel for the direct noise path we think
Hey Reese, thank you very much for your question. System 4 would be best to sound deaden the light weight thermalite blocks, a clip and channel system would need to go on a floating frame after you have sound deadened the wall, otherwise you may channel that noise to the bedroom above, especially if your house is a new build.
Remember Reducing impact noise is never just the direct noise path. The impact noise of kids running around in the alley way between the detached houses is coming into your lounge through a number of noise paths.
Here are a couple of 1min shorts 👇that might be useful.
th-cam.com/users/shortsI_kh99Ohvvs?si=J735uZN2_jgiou4_
Also this short which you may have seen already:
th-cam.com/users/shortsQ-CvdeA9m7s?si=JBvyCBmVtQm7rBDr
Hope that helps, thanks for your question
@@jimprior7 thanks Jim!
This is really useful. We have been considering giving it a go ourselves. Just want to make sure we don’t make any mistakes :)
@@ReeseBayley I think you should give it a go yourselves, jump on the next intake of the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course, it has step by step video lessons on each of the layers of the different system. At least you will be following a tried and tested soundproofing methodology taught to you by professional award wining installers. You can do it at your own pace it's an on demand course. Give me a call if you want. 👍
Hi Jim. What options are there to tuck up or down if you cannot move the joist?
Hey @Johncanter9575, are you on the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course? If so I will email you lessons. 👍
@@jimprior7 Hi Jim, unfortunately not. Would love to but on a budget so hoping for some cheeky free advice to solve my noisy neighbors that have moved in. 😁 would love to if i could afford it.
@@johncanter9575 Hi John, Ok its difficult to explain over TH-cam comments, because there are lots of different approaches to tucking it up or down depending on your property age and the construction...My Videos are just insights into soundproofing homes, they don't go into that much detail of the actual installations and we are careful what we show as these are real peoples homes.
It really is important to go that extra mile and tuck the system up and down because it can be the difference between you hearing your neighbours or not after.
I do offer installation support and renovation advice if the course is not for you. jimprior.com/work-with-me/
Hi Jim, i noticed in system number 5 (battened wall) the mineral wool is in contact with the party wall (or tecsound layer) but in the floating wall system it isn’t, is there any benefit to that or does it not make much difference?
Hi James,
Thanks very much for your comment: The floating frame offers a significant reduction in low frequency noise and some impact noise because its isolation from the structure. Soundproof wall system 5 with the battens fixed to the wall with anti-vibration pads will offer only 50% on those impact noises and a bit more on the lower frequencies.
What is you noise problem?....If you are hearing dogs barking, low frequency bass music, foot steps, clonks and clangs and doors banging for example then you are better taking the space loss with the floating frame on the direct noise path…..but remember you need to follow the 4 step method to get a good result…..it’s never just the party wall.
This video we used the floating frame downstairs, and the batten system upstairs in the bedroom: th-cam.com/video/CR7ZtJ3fI2c/w-d-xo.html
Great question, thanks again.
In your example the floor joists run perpendicular to the party wall. This is not the case for me, they run parallel to the wall. If I were to cut back the floor to tuck in the wall I would be damaging the structural support of the floor. Is there a way to solve this issue? I don't have access below as both spaces are finished areas. Thanks for the excellent videos.
Hi Jason,
Thanks very much for your comment.
There are a number of options and they are all featured in lessons on The Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course (next intake second week of June 2024). Your awesome question and probably demands its own video…but I will try and answer it here.
Assuming you are not comfortable moving the joist over because it will disrupt the room downstairs:
- You could go over or past the joists using a thicker soundproof wall system, this would allow you to tuck the system down and seal the layers to the ceiling below.
- To support the floor boards and renew the structural integrity of the floor, install a joists trimmer using noggins and a new piece of timber the same thickness as your floor joists…I will feature this in my next video -part 2 of this video: th-cam.com/video/VUMj_PrZG1c/w-d-xo.html
- If you require a large load bearing next to the party wall, then install a new joist along side the existing would be best option (the ceiling board below won’t need to be connected to this)
- If less of a load bearing is required and especially if the joists are close together you could fix 4 x 2 timber to the next joists to reduce the span of the floorboards. Please forgive me I have not seen your project, but hopefully this makes sense.
Thanks again for your great question, less us know how you get on
Hello, I want to create a soundproofing wall for a part wall, I'm thinking to use rockwool accustic extra, tecsound SY70 and 2-3 layers of accustic drywall. But I'm not sure where it's better to put the tecsound, directly on the party wall or between the drywall layers?
Hi Gabriel, that is a good question, I would use the TecSound SY100 Self Adhesive on the party wall directly if you can. Make sure it’s not plasterboard on the party wall. (Always remove that first)
If you can get a layer of TecSound between one of those layers of acoustic drywall as well as sound deaden the party wall with it as well, that would also be good. If you had to choose party wall or between the board for the TecSound….because you already have 2-3 layers of mass with the acoustic drywall….I would go for the party wall and sound dead it first with the TecSound. Hope that helps. Great Questions. Here is a video of us using it: th-cam.com/video/rs8ITTvKh8I/w-d-xo.htmlsi=1E8_EfA2moOuohI0
5:25 whats the 2 adhesive used?
Are there more ways to pinpoint where the sound is coming from besides putting your ears to the wall? Do you have a video on this topic? I can hear my neighbor upstairs but when I try putting my ears on the wall I feel like I can hear the sound on every wall 😅 Not sure if this means I'm going to need to isolate the roof and all walls or if I'm just not finding where the main issue is.
Hey @AMVaddictionist, that is a very good point, some new build properties have a lot hollow walls and you can hear the noise on every wall in the house. You might need to install sound insulation to everyone of those noise paths to get a good reduction in noise. By doing this simple test has showed you that soundproofing the direct noise path alone say the separating party wall....or separating floor alone if they are above you will be a waste on money.... it may change how you hear the noise....but it will still come through.
What type of property do you have? Do you have an apartment? If so this is a good video for you:
7 Ways to Soundproof a Ceiling
th-cam.com/video/0OSrzTPM1cw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks very much for watching
At the beginning of the video you seem to say the clip and channel systems outperform resilient bars. If so, would you consider building a floating frame and then using clips on top of that?
Also, have you ever considered using clips to fix the floating frame in place, instead of the rubber pads? Cheers
Thanks very much, great question.
The reason we do not use clips and channels on our floating frame is because the channels move too much between the clips, where a resilient bars is fixed to the frame.
The frame is sometimes only screwed in a couple of places on the head plate and sole plate and often glued or sometimes with the right property, no fixings and just pressure and the pads. (That’s 19 years’ experience of installing it though to do that!)
Resilient bars are also only 17mm space loss keeping the floating frame system at 175mm. Using the clip and channels will take the wall system over 200mm, but yes if you have that space available it would be better….just make sure the frame is secure and not completely floating so you don’t end up with too much movement in your wall.
Have you seen this video yet: DIY Soundproofing - Step by step
th-cam.com/video/7OdKIEmpbWM/w-d-xo.html
Are you looking to install a floating frame for your project? What kind of noise problem do you have?
So if you have too much movement in the wall, what's the problem caused? Is it that the plasterboard will crack?
That other video is great thanks.
I'm looking to install a very thorough system to a Victorian semi bedroom. Joists run parallel to the party wall. Walls are mixture of original lime plaster and sections of newer stuff. Removing some plaster has revealed a lot of holes in the mortar, some 20cm deep!
Ever try lead? Lead sheets take up a lot less space and are very good at blocking sound. Heavy as hell though.
Hey @JP5466, No I have not ever used lead, but funny you should say that because we are currently building a soundproof safe room at the moment and today we were building the walls of the safe room.
The specialist walling we are installing has reinforced steel sheets…very heavy.
We had to reinforce the floor joists to take the load bearing of the wall alone. I’m sure the lead would be similar….not very practical for residential but great for a soundproof garden room studio.
Not sure how the heavy duty walling will react to noise yet….we will find out tomorrow. I think we are going to have to sound deaden them with TecSound.
Thanks for your comment 🙏
@@jimprior7 Interesting.. good luck with that. I've constructed 2'x4' panels using 1/16" lead sheets glued to 3/4" plywood. I sealed up my bedroom window with them to block loud bass music from cars passing by. I tried many things previously, but this is the best thing I've done to reduce/block low frequencies.
@@JP5466 Cool, thanks for sharing....did you leave an air gap between the glazing and your lead panels? We find when we install our acoustic secondary glazing, we get a better results by creating a 75mm to 100mm air gap between the existing glazing and the new secondary glazing ....and then install something in the gap to stop the sound resonating.
@@jimprior7 There are 4 panels total. I layered 2 completed panels on top of each other with 3-4" inches of space in between and fill it with rockwool. One set of panels is attached to the inner frame and the other set is attached outside the frame. Sealed it all with acoustic calk. The entire thing weighs 200lbs, but it blocks out low frequencies very well. The lead itself weight 120lbs. Mass baby!
A data sheet for the M20 rubber panels recommends mechanical fixings, is this a definite no-no? I'm a bit concerned about the integrity of the plaster I'd be adhering on to. Are the panels known by any other names, can't seem to find suppliers in Ireland.
Hi @tirconaill, we use mechanical fixings with the 50mm system. Also if you have dusty old brickwork. Still use the two different types of adhesive for that resilient layer and fix it in the way we show you in the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course. When you purchase them from the builders merchants the panels are sometimes called RR20. I know Travis Perkins call them RR20. Hope that helps 👍Spray contact adhesive
bit.ly/3s82pjv
@@jimprior7 Thanks for your help Jim.
Hi Jim, quick question... Would you be able to advise what would be an approx. difference between 50mm thick RW3 insulation & 100mm thick RW3 insulation in terms of dB improvement. If I were to use 50mm thick but denser insulation (e.g. 80kg/m3 or 100kg/m3) would that achieve similar results to 100mm thick 60kg/m3 rockwool? Thanks in advance
Hi @Edgix10,
That is a really interesting soundproofing question. To be honest I’m not sure of the dB difference between 100mm and 50mm Rockwool. This is mainly because it depends how you are using it. In a residential setting, the db reduction value is kind of irrelevant unless you apply the same rockwool system to the ceiling, floor and all the walls perpendicular to the separating party wall…..and check for any holes in the structure first.
With regards to the density of the Rockwool insulation I recommend the RW3 (60kg/m3) because it’s not too dense that when you install it between joists it will bridge the gap. It is difficult to pack it in tool tight if you cut it too big.
The different densities will tackle different frequencies of noise. For DIYers and builders I always recommend the RW3 (60kg/m3) because it is more readily available and it does a wide range of frequencies we hear from neighbours and easy to use.
Here this video might help a bit: th-cam.com/video/IZAKD4kJvlU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Zb_VHqeuhZ1HtbSU
Hope that helps….what is you noise problem and where are you plaining to use it?
@@jimprior7 Thanks for the response. I'm planning to soundproof my party wall to reduce low bass from my neighbors. I'll be soundproofing the ceiling with 100mm RW3 and soundbloc plasterboard, flanking walls with TPS65W system and party wall with isolated frame system - M20AD directly to the wall / 15mm gap / 50mm stud frame and RW3 / MLV / resilient bars / 15mm SBX / 15mm Soundbloc.
any good for kitchens to offset washing machine activity 2 washing machines
Hey Kenneth, thanks for your question, the best solution for you would be floating frame, which we show you in the Noise Free DIY Soundproofing Course. It sound deadens the wall and then has a 25mm isolation gap from the wall and the structure, which will be best for the different frequencies a washing machine gives off....but also helps with the impact noise when the washing machine is on spin. Consider the floor too, a lot of the noise will be vibrating through the floor and you might want to consider and floating floor and even anti-vibration pads under washing machines... if you have access to those washing machines.
For the rubber gym mats most people i know use horse mats do you think this is ok
Hey Paul, I’m not sure, I have not used them before, they look very dense. How much does the ones you are looking at cost? Are you in the UK?
They are around £60 per matt and yes in the uk the only downside is they are very heavy
@@paultaylor7479 Need to be a corky type of rubber like these:
www.soundservice.co.uk/M20.html
or
www.floorscan.co.uk/product/m20-rubber-sheets/
or
soundproofingshop.com/acoustic-boards/m20-rubber-panel?_gl=1*1m37jeb*_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwmrqzBhAoEiwAXVpgosRZaYcg54a8wofv13nHxCLqBy6jFfyxmQWf48EKutwWEpxtunsU7xoCfZQQAvD_BwE
Thank you very much
Congatulations... your room is now half the size !
A local soundproofing company to me says they offer an "Independent Wall" solution, which I think is the same as method 6 in this video. However, they do not say that they remove the existing plasterboard wall first. They build the new timber frame on top of the existing plasterboard wall. Is this a red flag?
wow! 🤯yes big red flag ....No it will not be a floating frame they will offer,. What they offer will be isolated from the party wall only, clips and channels with TecSound and 2 layers of 15mm board installed to the channels.....make sure you get a page of references of who they have work for and actually phone those people up and ask them what reduction in noise they got....seems simple but amazing how many people don't do this. Here check this video out: How Much does soundproofing costs?
th-cam.com/video/eGRSOjyR2Ds/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LnPE6jGs0m2Q-ZdC
@@jimprior7
Thanks Jim.
This is like the most expensive sound proofing option ever. Of course this works lol. You just threw the kitchen sink at this.
Hey Mark, actually….this is the most expensive soundproofing 😂: check this out…
th-cam.com/video/CR7ZtJ3fI2c/w-d-xo.html
It only takes a slight bit of noise to come through for you to feel unsettled, uncomfortable in your home and feel like moving. This is what so many homeowners find when they just treat the party wall alone.
Thanks very much for your comment and watching 🙏
ALL MLV are EXPENSIVE and Crap !
Best things to use for blocking sound are Exterior Rockwool Slabs directly onto the party-wall topped off with as as many that are needed 8' x 4' sheets of SoundBlock Gypsum. I found two staggered layers of soundblock on top of the Exterior Rockwool Slabs best in my house, no more noise and THEY were Loud people !
Rockwool also have sound-block type of slabs but They are not as Good as the Exterior slabs.
how did you fix the rockwool to the wall... and then the soundblock to the rockwools exterior slabs?
@@johncanter9575 Rockwool I fixed to the bare walls using penny-washers and hammer-in-fixings ( the cheaper version of Fischer fixings)...4 in each rockwool slab about 2inches in from each corner. Soundblock fixed to the rockwool exterior slabs using patches of 2-3 inches deep BY 5 inches or so in diameter, of bonding plaster (white and purple bag)friend... about 12 patches per 8'x4' sheet.
@@BLUEHORIZON-g2b Thanks so much... really useful
Thanks for sharing and thanks for the tips 👍
@@BLUEHORIZON-g2b thanks so much for this. Very useful info.