Yanmar marine diesel oil change
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2017
- This video offers an overview of the Yanmar 3GM 30FC marine diesel engine, with specific reference to normal maintenance. In this edition we do a routine oil change and describe common lubrication problems.
This is an amateur video, published in good faith but with no guarantees as to accuracy or safety. Engine maintenance can be an inherently dangerous activity, so you need to carefully research the risks, consulting multiple sources of any critical information. Be sure to consult the dealers manual for official maintenance policies -- this is available as a free pdf download for most of these Yanmar engines. Any misadventure you encounter if you decide to take the risk of repairing your own engine is your responsibility. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![Boat DIESEL ENGINE Hacks & Oil Change [Capable Cruising]](/img/n.gif)
These videos have been great! First oil change and both fuel filters completed today no problems thanks to you! Bravo!
I have just changed the oil in my Yanmar 3GM30F for the first time and this video was very useful for me. Thanks for sharing it!
Just bought my first inboard diesel, watching some videos to learn a thing or two. This was well done and very helpful to me. Thanks!
Just the kind of practical, basic thing I was looking for. Thanks.
Super helpful! Thank you! Great video, well explained. Mechanical maintenance intimidates me. This gives me hope!
Simple and straightforward. Appreciate it as I'm about to take position of my new sailboat with a Yanmar diesel engine.
Excellent, clear explanations of the process. Thank you.
Nicely done Dave and that little engine does look fascinating to work on. Keeping that oil changed will let that engine last forever. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, Terry. Next ones will be more interesting.
Exactly the breakdown I was looking for. Thanks!
I have little interest in boats or diesels, but your videos are always so informative, educational, easy to follow, and well produced I can't help but watch them all. Thanks for sharing!
What a kind remark, thank you. I find these little engines so fascinating, it's not hard to be captivated myself. I always wonder if I can instill the same kind of interest in others, thanks for the vote of confidence.
I whole hartedly agree .
Thank you so much for these Yanmar videos! Makes my new sailboat (almost exact same engine) not nearly as intimidating. What a lifesaver and your explanations are super helpful. Thank you again!
I enjoyed and learned from your two videos: oil change and fuel filter change. Thanks.
Thanks! I'm doing one today on sailboat winch lubrication, in case you have a sailboat, ha ha. Some day I hope to do one on the cooling system, haven't got around to that one.
Excellent informative video
Really enjoyed watching you change the filters and oil
Thanks a bunch! You helped me do my first oil change on my 73’ Tanzer 28!
Thank you for your well delivered and informative videos. As a very independent woman sailboat owner, your videos are priceless!
Good for you for knowing how to fix and maintain your boat 🙂👍🏻
Thank you for taking the time out of your life to make this video , it’s answered all my question
Thanks! We just bought a New-to-us sailboat with a Yanmar 3HD. This video helped.
great video, shows exactly what I need to know for changing the exact same engine on the boat.
You have a natural narration for making these videos. I got valuable information on the Yanmar and access to do a poper oil change. Very well presented.
Thanks, man!
Thanks for the clear explanation. You mentioned explaining diesel cooking in a future vid, look forward to that. I really like the workarounds and side tips, hoodonyou and thanks again
Err i mean cooling!
Especially like the full detAil of the bleed process, I've been terrified of running out of fuel becAuse of that ignorance
Now I know that fear was justified! ;)
Very clear and helpful, I am going to do this tomorrow!
Thank you for this video. It was incredibly usefull.
My friend and I have a small Westerly Clipper from 68. Inside that old lady sits a Yanmar like yours. I'll be watching your videos and learn from them. Well, the first lesson I had was when I looked for the drain plug on that engine...hence me looking at your video now. :)
Thanks a lot, it will help us out...big time! 😎
It's nice to meet you, thanks for the feedback.
Dave
Great videos! You helped me better understand my Yanmar! Thanks!
You're welcome! More to come when I get some time, I appreciate the feedback. I made up a playlist of diesel videos to put them all in one place, since it's a little tangential to the channel theme.
Very well done nice and simple but direct and to the point. Thank you. Peter
Thank you, Peter. There are few videos that I look back on that I couldn't improve if I had a chance to do them again. If I were to do this one again, I'd emphasize the importance of being sure that filter gasket is removed and the mating surface is clean. Every day in North America a car dies because the grease monkey forgot to check. I am told that the double gasket mistake is the most common cause of insurance claims against mechanics. What happens is the customer drives away, oil sprays out from the double gasket under the filter, the oil light comes on, and the customer doesn't turn the key off soon enough before the engine is destroyed. I hope that people who stop by will remember to both check that the gasket came off and do a double check afterward with engine running to look for leaks. It's nice to meet you, I hope to do a few more marine videos in the next year.
Dave
Great step by step guide and good hints
Thank you for the video! On my 3YM30 motor, I always change the filter before I warm up and change the oil. This way there is little or no oil in the old filter to make a mess on the side of the engine or in the bilge when I remove it. Yes, it means my new filter sees a few minutes of running with the old oil coursing through it, but I don't believe this appreciably compromises the filter's performance, especially since I use an OEM Yanmar filter and change it every 80-100 hours anyway.
Thanks for this. Tomorrow will try to repeat your experiment.
Great video... really helpful!
Great advice,
Thank you for your putting it out there
Very very informative Proffesor diesel.
When I repowered with a 3GM, I had room to mount a more accessible remote oil filter adapted to the engine. Very convenient. With the remote filter vertical, there is less spill when changing. Also the adapted filter is much larger than the oem sized filter.
Amazing detail. Thanks
Awesome video
Thanks. I've been fiddling with export codecs to try and improve HD qualities. It's been a work in progress, a little frustrating because the camera gives excellent sharpness, better than I see in compressed uploads.
Great Video ...keep up the great work ....every beginner will benefit
Well done video. Thank you!
Great video..not sure I can do this aline but it's worth a try
If the engine has been standing for more than about a week, and immediately after changing the oil, to pre lubricate , I open the decompression levers and crank it over on the starter motor for about 5 to 10 seconds, then drop the decompression levers to allow it to fire. I do not use the Yanmar technique of opening the throttle to a high setting, but leave it at a setting that will give about 1000 to 1100rpm when it starts. I have owned four boats with these little Yanmars and they have always been very reliable. I run them at about 2500 rpm, and once a day give them about a minute at full power. Other than the five minute warm up and cool down I never let them idle, or run at low RPM.
I have fitted after market stainless steel exhaust elbows and have never had a problem with carbon build up in the exhaust on any engine.
I run 15w40 mineral oil and change it every 60 or so hours, which is typically twice a year (as I use the boat all year round).
Yes, I've tried that in the past and I certainly helps to prelubricate and make starting easier. Good points!
Great, thanks
Excellent video
Thank you.
Thank u.
This is a great video.
Thank you!
Good
Made it simple 😊
I really liked your videos but would have loved to see how you started off the engine.
Great video. I just subscribed
Thanks, it is nice to meet you.
Dave
good thanks
Idk why I'm watching this, I've done dozens of oil changes lol.
Just discovered your channel - loving the content particularly on marine based engines. You have a gentle approach riddled with knowledge - I've always oiled the gasket on the filter, but assumed it was to help the seal, not stop distorting the gasket!
I've owned a YSM8 and now a 3YM30 and try and do much of the maintenance myself. I am concerned at the moment the anti-freeze is not flowing through the engine currently, however no alarms have gone off. Is is possible for the "fresh water" side of a heat exchange to become clogged? If so, can you recommend some content that demonstrates how to clean this? The heat exchanger flushing videos seem most concerned with barnacle growth.
Yes, especially if the past owner used tap water rather than premixed coolant or distilled water/concentrate. The most common cause of problems on the freshwater side is trapped air, followed by partial opening of the thermostat, and rarely water pump failure or water pump seal leakage. The cap can be a common source of problems by leaking air across one of the seals, which prevents automatic burping of trapped air. The impeller of the freshwater pump is made of steel, not rubber or plastic, so they normally last for years. If you haven't already watched the coolant video I did, start there, then go to your engine and carefully feel the hoses leading to and returning from the heat exchanger to get a feel for your freshwater flow when the engine is warm. If your engine is not overheating then you have at least some flow, but it would be wise to drain and replace your coolant as a good starting point. If you still have uncertainty as to whether your thermostat is working properly, then I wouldn't hesitate to replace it, they are inexpensive. All that said, the vast majority of marine cooling system problems are on the salt water side and the heat exchanger. I'm planning to remove and clean my heat exchanger in the next few months, and I'll inspect the exhaust elbow at the same time.
I have the 2GM20 but the same process. Yes I love mine too 6000hrs and still does not burn a drop of oil. I change the oil every 300 hrs. Might be why.
Also I don't let it tick over for hours like some. It's off as soon as it's not needed.
That is a nice compact engine, and yanmar is a known quality company :-D.
I would call it a good chugger, not hyper fast but very very reliable, ive known some old honda motorbike engines that have that feel :-D.
A chugger is allways worth the trouble :-).
Ya, reliability is the critical issue with a sailboat engine. Thanks for stopping by!
Awesome, 🙏
Hey man, thanks for the sub. I'm doing another video on how winches work and how to disassemble them, this week.
Dave
yes, the Yanmar, the workhorse of the Japanse fishing fleet. must have been millions built, and most survive.
I like many in the Comments have just Bought my First Inboard Diesel, and it's a 2GM20. It seems as I get Older seeing something done is my go to way to Learn so I really appreciate the Clear Video. Ty and new Sub Here. The Edit is this Question. I read in a Service Bulletin that the Cables on a Yanmar are Steel and should be Lubed. What would you recommend ? Have you ever done it, I have a Cable in the Cockpit that Stops it Running and that is the one the Bulletin was discussing.Ty
If you visit Amazon or your local motorcycle shop, you'll find a little tool I use to lubricate cables called a "cable lubrication tool". It's an adapter that clamps onto the end of the cable, and you use a silicone spray canister with one of those narrow red adapters into the hole in the lube tool. That little tool directs the spray down the barrel of the cable. The cables I installed on the Yanmar (shown in a different video) were so slick that I have trouble keeping the throttle control fixed at slow speed, so my problem is the opposite, ha ha.
Place a large zip-lock style back around the oil filter, no drips not mess.
I subscribed and have watched several of your videos as I really appreciate the common sense, technical savvy you have. One question arises that I'm not sure of though in starting the engine with a remote switch. I have always been told that the key must never be used to turn off the engine because of the probability of damage to the alternator. If I don't have the key in the on position (in the cockpit) will this not result in the same situation or do I have to turn on the key and listen to the alarms screaming while I remove the steps and set up for the job?
Good point. On occasion when sailing with friends, somebody will turn the key off when the engine is running. On my boat, to my surprise the engine keeps going, but some of the electronics like the voltage regulator and warning lights and gauges may not work properly. Since the voltage regulator adjusts the alternator field current to regulate the charge sent to the battery, you could have a situation where the battery ends up being overcharged because the alternator is not sensing the battery voltage. So, like most people I follow the guideline to only run with key on and shut down by pulling the fuel control stop cable before turning the key off. If I shut off with the stop handle at the engine, after I do that I scramble up the absent stairs to turn the key off, reminded by that singing warning tone in the cockpit. On the other hand when I just want to turn the engine over for a few seconds to prime the fuel system, I don't bother to turn the key on since it won't matter over such a short time, and I'm not trying to actually start the engine. Other engines may be different. If your engine is equipped with a remote starter I would look at the manufacturer's information to decide whether remote starting allows a streamlined approach. It is noteworthy that even with key off, some of these engines may start if you bypass the key, which raises a whole lot of security issues. When priming the fuel system I hold the decompression levers in the open position so fuel if flowing but there is no compression. In these little Yanmar diesels, I've come to understand that the lever shifts timing for the exhaust valve, passing unburned fuel and air into the exhaust during the compression stroke. Thanks for watching!
If the alternator is a Hitachi internally-regulated unit that comes standard with these GM-series engines, I've found that you can shut off the ignition key after the engine has been running and the alternator will continue charging normally (though the Charge light can come on with a false warning). The alternator regulator senses the system voltage internally. You do need the key ON to initialize the charging process (to wake up the alternator). This scenario does not apply if there was an aftermarket alternator installed or one with external regulator. The main risk for alternators comes when the Load (the battery) circuit is suddenly broken (usually at the battery switch) while there is significant charging current. This can cause an inductive voltage spike which might damage alternator diodes. When using a remote switch for turning the engine as Spelunkerd does, the engine can't start if the decompression or the engine stop control is engaged (no fuel injected). I've found the decompression levers can pop back to the normal position on their own so tying or holding them is needed.
Great video. I love that suction bottle/ pump pot. Luckily for me I have access to my sump plug on my Yanmar and my Iveco has a built in pump but I think your pump pot is probably the best one I've seen and I could use it on my Cat skid steer to save removing the bash plate. Could you please tell me the brand?
Dave.
No-name brand from our local discount part store, Princess Auto here in Canada. Back at the shop I can use the Venturi to apply suction with shop air, but the hand pump works fine anyway. Thanks for stopping by!
Great video, thank you! Question...how do you clean the siphoning container?
The siphon device itself contains mostly oil so I simply pour it into an empty oil container. If I use it for other fluids there is inevitable cross contamination with gear oil etc but the recycling depot don't seem to have a problem with that. Old coolant, expired diesel fuel, and oil needs a container to take it all to the recycling depot, so I use old containers and don't have to clean them. Our local depot will even take empty containers that once held oil, coolant, etc.
Great video! Will soon have to do the same procedure on my Yanmar 3HM ... and also change the gear oil... You do not have a video about that by any chance!? :)
I have a sail drive, which is very different than a normal transmission. With the sail drive I do it with the boat out of the water, I unscrew a stainless steel drain plug at the bottom, let it all leak out into a pail, close the plug with a little locktite so it can't vibrate open, and add fluid (gear oil) until the dipstick says it is full. Inspect the fluid carefully to be sure there's no water in it, water will layer underneath the oil so it would come out first. If water comes out you need to change the bottom seals, at least. Thanks for reminding me to change my engine oil, it is that time of year, ha ha.
hahaha :) well I believe it is me who is saying thanks! so thanks for the tip!
Hi, nice video thanks. I have the same engine in my yacht. It recently stopped underway. I finally found out it was air in the fuel line. I managed to get it out by opening a 10 mm bolt near the left hand top side , below the heat exchanger and operated the lift pump to remove the air. all good now, where did the air come from though?
Good question! I'd be replacing the seals at the two filters, and having a look at all the connections, carefully looking at the bleed screws in case any were left partially open. As you say, air had to get there somehow and if you didn't run low on fuel or heel over to let air in, it had to get there somehow. The last time that happened to me it was my mistake, not purging air after a filter change. On the other hand, water in the line will behave the same way so don't rule out water as a cause.
your yanmar diesel last forever with regular maintenance. tough as hell.
Absolutely, I love this little engine.
Helpful video. One question, why change the filter before emptying the old oil? Thanks!
Oil filters have a silicone or rubber "anti drain-back valve" that keeps the filter and (both proximal and distal) feeder tubing charged with oil even after the vehicle is turned off. The system is designed that way so the oil pump doesn't need to clear air bubbles from the passageways at each cold start. When you break the air lock by loosening the oil filter, the siphon is broken so remaining oil in the proximal tubing will reflux backwards into the pan. It may not be a big effect but as a pattern of practice it makes sense to remove the filter first. Thank you for watching!
Thanks @spelunkerd
spelunkerd Wow! Loved the medical terminology to stay oriented on how the system works! Thanks!
How would you go about removing that engine if it were necessary? By the looks of it that would be a real pisser! Thanks for sharing this video.
Good point, you generally need a crane. The companionway of sailboats is almost always over the engine, which gives a preexisting slot through which you can lift the motor. When the boat is up on ground stands, you drop a crane hook through that slot to the motor, then unbolt motor mounts and lift it up and forward. You're working way up in the air, because the 4000 lb lead keel of these boats drops 7 feet below the bottom of the hull. My boat has a sail drive, which means the transmission and prop are aligned vertically, lifted out together with the motor. I was shocked to learn that a motor replacement costs about $20,000, and even doing it yourself costs a bundle. Fortunately these engines don't often die, unless the owner makes a goofy mistake. Your question is excellent, working on a seam that I want to explore in the future. What would surprise a gasoline mechanic about the design of a sailboat diesel? The unusual fuel and cooling systems are at the very top of that list. Thanks for watching!
Use the Fram ultra for that motor, a much better oil filter and better insurance on that motor. Better filtration for the motor!
Great video - where does one find that handy dandy syphone tool?
I got that one at Princess Auto in Canada, which carries a line of products similar to Harbor Freight. There are many iterations, but mine is designed to be used in the shop with compressed air creating a vacuum by a Venturi effect. In the boat I use the hand pump, which works fine. You would be surprised how often it comes in handy for auto repair. Thank you for watching!
it is a great tool, the visual read and calibration make it so. now we need a miniaturized version for crusiers !
Hi great video, one question i have a small boat with a yanmar 1GMC diesel engine 6.5 hp do you know what oil i put in the gearbox. Thank you
I'm not sure. The great thing about Yanmar is the way their repair manuals are free, online. Take those details to a marine engine shop and ask them for what they recommend. I've been using transmission oil made for salt water environments, since I will guess they may be better if the output seal begins to fail and salt water mixes with the oil.
Nice instructions. If oil cap is not open immediately the pump will create vacuum. Can it cause a damage?
Interesting point. There's enough air flow around the tube that vacuum won't be significant. Also most engines have some kind of breather or PCV valve to balance blowby gasses when the engine is running. More modern engines can have tremendous crankcase vacuum, the VW turbo engines for example. If you remove the oil fill cap on those engines the engine will get a serious vacuum leak and it may quit.
This might be a stupid question, but how do you discard the oil and clean the hose and container? Do you pump it out into a discarding container or do you simply pour out the old oil into a discard container? And leave the oil residue be untill next year
Good question. I change oil on many vehicles, so there is a constant flow of used oil and coolant that I take to the local recycling facility. Most full service marinas have some kind of recycling program. Recycling facilities take used oil, oil filters, paint, and coolant for free. I pour the old oil into empty containers that the new oil came in, and they recycle those containers, too. The vacuum pump I use can be poured out, and I don't worry about a little mixing or oil in the bottom since it all eventually ends up at the same facility. The only things I have trouble recycling are old gasoline and expired flares. My recycling facility won't take gasoline unless I donate a dedicated red fuel container to hold it. My neighbor uses old diesel fuel to help start his burn pile but I wouldn't do that with gasoline. If there is no recycling facility nearby, you could ask your local mechanic to take used motor oil, but they usually won't take the empty containers.
i just got a Helms 30 sailboat with a Yanmar 8hp and this helps out a TON!!! any advise on one that was well maintained but abandoned 11 years ago?? i havent tried starting it up yet.
I would change the motor oil and filter, the coolant, the fuel filters and the fuel, then bleed the fuel lines of air. In a gasoline engine it is common advice to put a few drops of oil into each cylinder, though it may be difficult to do that in a diesel if you don't have glow plugs that you can remove to gain access to the cylinder. You'll almost certainly need a new battery. The big problem with old unused engines is dry rot of seals, but you can look for that after you start it up. Remember to pause for a few minutes when you crank for no more than 10 seconds, and in my Yanmar I would close the salt water sea cock to prevent hydrolock, then open it right away after it starts. Good luck!
change oil, remove glow plugs and crank it until You see oil pressure built. after that try to start with fresh fuel.
I would not change antifreeze, before knowing engine condition. if engine needs overhaul, new antifreeze will be wasted. if it starts and runs good, then do everything. Good luck.
That's a good point about cranking for a short while with the cylinders decompressed. Most Yanmars don't have glow plugs, but you can do the same thing if you hold the decompression valves open. In fact the Yanmar owners manual describes a cold start procedure that begins with decompression and the stop cable pulled out, so you don't flood the cylinders with fuel while getting oil and valves moving first. After 10 sec you pause, then wait for a couple of minutes to let the starter motor recover. I showed how to do that for purging air in the fuel filter video. After doing that you start normally, some guys recommend full throttle, but dial down after it starts so you don't rev a cold engine. That technique for a cold start seems to work pretty well for my engine.
For engine , that was standing still 11 years oil pump probably needs to be primed. happened to me, first was cranking w/o filter, than pumped air in crank case through dip stick hall to create some pressure, that worked.
Late out of the gate here but besides what others have recommended, oiling and such, a huge potential problem on small diesels that sit too long is a but of rust developing on the governor components or lever shafts. In general, these only get lubricated when the engine runs by splash lubrication. On these engines it can be stuck at full throttle as that is the normal position when off. I'd try to remove PTO access plates to see if things are moving freely before starting. Have the air filter off and have a tennis ball or other plug ready to block the air intake though the fuel shutdown can do the job.
Leaving old degraded oil in the system seriously degrades the new oil the minute you put it in the engine. The additive packages in oil are sacrificial so what's left is oxidized and so contaminates the new oil. Using a cheaper oil to 'flush' the old oil is no better unless it meets the same specs (API Sx/Cx) as the new oil; if not, then you have mixed unsuitable with suitable oil which makes unsuitable oil. You should add a proper diesel engine flush (500ml) to the system before you change the oil. Let it run for 10 minutes or so and the old oil, bacteria, water, and other gunk will be released from the walls. Now pump out the old oil, put a couple of litres of kero in the system and then pump that out (kero has oil in it so the engine will be protected while you do this). Then change the oil filter. Then pour in new oil, pump it out until you see clean oil coming through (you will lose less than a litre but it's no great cost). Job done. Then put a diesel fuel system cleaner (500ml) in the fuel tank and the fuel lines will be cleaned as well.
I am interested in understanding how the Yanmar 3HM35f engine is different and what components to service when & where on the engine. I may buy a boat with one...Any advice appreciated.
I have no personal experience with the bigger 3HM engine, though they share the same dealers repair manual that you can easily find, a free pdf online. Yanmar are reputable engines and I don't know of any special information regarding that one. The only knock I have about my engine is that without glow plugs, starting in the winter is more tricky. Even so, I don't have any trouble where I live. There are special issues with boats having a sail drive, I'll get into that one day in a video. Good luck!
Just some things I do differently, 1st when removing the oil filler cap, check the inside of the cap for moisture. It is one of the first places that will give you an indication of water/coolant in the oil. No matter what direction the oil filter is mounted, always pre-fill. Fill the filter and let it sit, so it soaks up the oil. Prior to changing the oil, I add Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) then run the engine. This helps remove sludge.
I can't get the oil cap off, I'm turning it to the left. Is this correct? It has been three years since the oil was changed as the boat has been in storage. Thank you.
Many oil fill caps are spring loaded, you need to push down and turn CCW (RH threads), like a pill bottle with a child proof cap.
Do you have a vid on changing the transmission fluid on a Yanmar 2GM20F and the types of fluid to use? That is our next task - the book says to use the same oil in the transmission as in the engine, however, on inspection we find that it contains an ATF so we may need to change it and flush the transmission out.
Mine is a sail drive, it uses gear oil, not transmission oil. Transmission oil would be wrong, I believe even with a standard drive. If you verify that ATF is wrong, I'd flush it out a few times to be sure it is all gone. Check your manual. To drain my sail drive I simply open the cap, open the drain bolt, let it drip out while the boat is up on land. I drain regularly because the seals there can go bad and let salt water in, which can severely damage the gears. So I change far more often than needed to keep a close eye on whether the seals are failing. Gear oil typically lasts a long time if it weren't for the marine surveillance angle.
@@spelunkerd thank you for the info!!! I truly appreciate the time you take to respond and offer 'gold' advice. It may be that the previous owner changed the transmission to another type which requires ATF, we have left him a message to find out. We hope we get the info before we sail our P31-2 to another bay for a short haul. Thank you again!!!!
I have an ‘87 2gm20f yanmar that uses 30w engine oil in the transmission. ATF will ruin mine.
10w30 is what is stated in the manual for my 2gm20f.
@@mikeamirault8741 yup, the previous owner put ATF in the transmission. We pumped it out, flushed it a number of times - now it has the correct oil in! Thank you all for your help!
I have the same engine what is the FRAM filter number that you are using? I can't find the Yanmar recommended one.
PH6607. There are better filters out there, but you'd have to ask your parts dealer for equivalent options.
@@spelunkerd Awesome, thanks I think it should be fine using that one
Can you change the seawater pump belt by slipping it over the crank pulley?
You have to remove the main belt first, but yes you can. Better to loosen off the mounting plate bolts, then it slips off easily. It is an old style V-belt, not one of those new stretch belts in some vehicles. I don't like the belt tensioner on these old style engines, especially the main belt. New engines have a better belt tensioner and mounting apparatus, but I don't think the new tensioners fit onto the old engines.
I upgraded to aluminum pulleys that accept flat ribbed belts when installing a more powerful charging system. The new aluminum crank pulley fully covers the existing one, and needed to be heated in the oven first to increase the diameter. I’ll never be able to remove it without a struggle, most likely. I haven’t changed the seawater pump belt in 6 years!
You should still slide something under the engine and drain the engine after sucking the oil out of the top. Then use your suction system to empty the under-engine tray. That way you do a complete change.
How do you propose doing that, without an oil pan drain bolt in this engine? Even if some engines have a drain bolt, there is often no room to get a drain pan underneath. The siphon tip was at the bottom of the oil pan, it would be difficult to do this procedure any other way, and in fact this is the Yanmar approved method for oil changes in these little engines. To remove the oil pan, you'd need to winch the engine off the transmission to gain clearance to get those pan bolts free, and there would be an inevitable mess that would end up in the bilge and then automatically pumped into the ocean. Nobody does that, it costs tens of thousands of dollars to lift an engine in these boats. That said, if you have an engine with a drain bolt and room to use it, of course that method would be better.
spelunkerd , I have never, ever, ever run into a Yanmar or a Perkin-Elmer with no lube oil sump drain. After getting the top sucked out, I like to use a 1-gallon oil jug with the side cut out. Jam it in, drain the sump (there’s never been more than 2qts left), suck the oil out of it, pull it out, wipe the inevitable splatters up. Miller time.
Oh, that's an interesting idea, certainly useful if you don't have a vacuum pump or reasonable access to a pan drain plug. I get that it is faster. Are you draining from the fitting below and aft of the oil filter? If you are draining from the oil sump pathway, the oil in the pan needs to get past the screen at the oil pickup before it can be drained. Coarse particles and sludge will not make it past that screen so would remain in the pan, and with time sludge will coat the screen. Siphoning with vacuum isn't much better but at least the bad oil doesn't have to pass through a screen to be removed. Documents from Yanmar, including the free owners manual which is available online, call for vacuum removal through the dipstick, as shown. Whatever method is used, hot oil offers the best chance of removing sludge and suspended particles.
There is no drain plug! Dana
@@spelunkerd Its think Dana is accustomed to Yanmar engines used on commercial equipment (Bobcats, air compressors, etc) and those have drain plugs unlike the smaller marine engines.
i just purchased a 33 tartan with a fairly new ( 290 hour ) yanmar engine; as i go through some of the videos i found yours and have to agree with the other gentleman, your video is very informative, simple and easy to understand; if you send me an email address i will communicate with you privately.
best.
jorge a.
Thanks, man! Those Tartans are excellent boats, very nicely designed and surprisingly fast. Tartan came from the C&C pedigree, upgraded. You can reach me any time by sending a private message through my channel, it comes right through but I may not be able to answer right away because we're traveling. Nice to meet you!
Dave
Hi, I know this is not to do with oil change but how do you know when your thermostat is not working. Thank
Usually overheating. When you start the vehicle, feel the hose that sends coolant to the top of the radiator, it starts out cold, but after the engine warms up the hose should get hot, indicating the thermostat has opened. Many thermostats get thrown out because of false blame, and the most common cause is inadequate burping.
spelunkerd , thanks very much for your information.
Which filter did you use ph6607 ?
Yes, that's the one I use. Some people prefer filters that are better made, I don't know the equivalent part numbers.
I put 3 litres of cheap10 w30 in the engine. I run it for about thirty seconds and drain a second time.
That's a reasonable option. As you know, not all oil is changed so some oil from before (and some of the flush) will remain. Oil is so much cheaper than a major engine repair, even diesel-specific oil is cheap compared to everything else.
Interesting! It sounds like your engine is well cared for!!
this is the mr. rogers of man caves.
Just so you know fram filters are crap
Nappa and wix filters are made much better
Ha ha, I knew somebody was going to chime in on that one. I agree. The Fram was the only one in stock at a local parts store. It is disappointing that mass market favours low cost above higher quality. You can't blame the parts store, it is expensive to keep multiple copies of the same filter on the shelf. Those same economic forces give us plastic cars, failing water heaters, and cheap tools. On the other hand, when was the last time you saw a car with a dead engine because of a failed filter? I never have.
Fram is wix. Same factory.
@@DPelicanGaming take one apart, the construction methods are totally different between a FRAM and a premium WIX.
Going cheap on a filter doesn’t make any sense. That filter is not intended for a Diesel Engine, oil is to thick although if you change it more frequently shouldn’t have a problem. Good luck
@@spelunkerd Question, how do you cross reference the Yanmar filter part number to a Fram, NAPA, Wix, etc. part number? Are you just taking the engine model number and/or filter part number to the local auto parts store and having them do it? Or is there an online resource that can cross-reference for you?
I have been reading the debate, here and on forums, concerning using a "automotive" filter vice Yanmar specific and I think I've decided I agree with your opinion, I have yet to see an engine failure that can be directly attributed to a cheap/crappy oil filter. Additionally I live on the Chesapeake bay, 25 min from Annapolis, and I have the hardest time finding Yanmar filters for a reasonable price. I finally found a shop in Pasadena, MD that carries a good supply at a reasonable price AND that is actually open on the weekends (Saturday AND SUNDAY) when I actually have time to work on my boat (Cobe Marine for anyone that lives in the area). Unfortunately this shop is 40 plus minutes from my house and about the same from my boat. If it's this hard to find filters at a reasonable price for me in a sailing dense environment, I can't imagine finding one elsewhere. And yes I have scoured the Internet and while I can find them, the prices are stupid expensive. If anyone has a reliable online resource for oil and fuel filters that is reasonably priced, please share.
Alternator belt is way to loose.
Good for you to notice, that was my first reaction, too. On this engine, belt tension is set by adjusting the position of the alternator support bracket. Last month, before the video I cranked the alternator support bracket with a big prybar, as tight as I could get it. It improved, but not as much as I'd like. As I tighten it down I noticed that the plane of the alternator pulley tilts, which is not a good sign. Right now there's about 1 cm of belt deflection, which should be adequate tension, but the belt still jumps a little, with a harmonic kind of motion in time with engine vibration. I think it jumps because the alternator pulley isn't perfectly aligned with the crank pulley, the plane of the pulleys is slightly off. These small engines don't have very hefty brackets, you don't have the kind of double pole rigid alternator supports that you have in a car. In fact I think the alternator bracket may have been bent a little by a previous mechanic when trying to overtighten the support. Either that or the small surface it mounts to is not exactly parallel to the crank pulley. It's a future project to work on, for sure. I may have to make a custom alternator support bracket with a bigger footprint, probably out of stainless steel. In the meantime I'm carrying an extra belt, I watch it carefully, and I try to retighten every couple of months.
Exactly my thought and fram is cheap
double bullseye
Hello Sir..
My name is Muhammad Jan...
I'm living Karachi Pakistan...
Back in the 80's, as a 20 something young man, I had the privilege of traveling alone in Kashmir. I met a young Muslim man of about my age on the street, and to my surprise he kindly offered me food and lodging for the night with his friends. I'll never forget how kind they were to a lonely traveler. Greetings to you, my friend.
@@spelunkerd Kashmir is beautiful...
But I'm living Karachi...
I like your comments...
Thank you sir ....well come...
;-)
Thanks for the video. I have just ordered 2 Yanmar 57hp diesel engines for my Catamaran Build that I am am currently working on. I really appreciate the detail you are going to in your videos. If you are interested I am compiling a never ending video series on the 40 foot Catamaran build and would appreciate your feedback and advice on engine access and maintenance once these are installed. Cheers Rossco. Link here to my series for a good laugh : th-cam.com/video/Cay7VPQw3AU/w-d-xo.html
Not the orange can of death!
Looks like a J/109 to me.
Yup!
I race on a J/109 (Phoenix - 251) in the Detroit area. Great diesel. I have a 4JH3E that's not even close to as smooth as that setup.
@@jonathonnevedal714 Nice to meet you! We're in Victoria, hull #43.
Fram filters are garbage.. Use OEM. Trust me.
You are doing this out of sequence, remove oil trough the dip stick, then the filter.
Anyone who have serviced marine engines knows this.
Interesting to hear you say that. There is dirty oil in the tubing between the filter and the pan, which will drip down into the pan when the siphon is broken by letting air into that tubing. The antisiphon valve at the filter prevents oil in the line from going back to the pan until the filter is removed. If you drain pan before filter, more dirty oil will drop into the pan, to mix with clean oil to follow. Why would you want to do it that way?
@@spelunkerd I have done hundreds of these and other Diesel engines. After running I always remove the oil, then the filter. Filter is always empty or near empty. Using a zip-lock style baggy to catch the filter and any little drips insures a clean bilge. No need for gloves, but I confess I have dropped a couple filters and that generally leaves just a little to clean up.
There are a few of the large Yanmar engines that present a problem and if you are not using the baggy you will have a mess. These are usually side by side oil filters and it can be difficult to get the bag in place and remove the filters. I learned that the hard way.