Clark... I agree with everything you talk about in this video, and I want to further emphasize all your good advice by telling this rather long story from my life experiences. I hope that this will save someone from having problems. I, therefore, am re-posting the following: My Father in Law was in the production side of the movie business with Warner Bros. Columbia all his life. I should say here that he was a very serious man, (ex-Navy) who rose to be Director of Operations at Warner Bros. Columbia before he retired. So I have no reason to doubt this story. This is what he told me: Years ago, on location, in the middle of winter in one of the Northern States, a movie scene required a Longboat full of Fur Trappers to be shown rowing upstream. The current on the partially ice-covered river proved to be too strong for the actors rowing the boat. An outboard motor would show a wake, so that was not an option. So, the crew came up with the idea of using an old Caterpillar Dozer from a nearby ranch. It had a winch upfront that they figured could help them pull the boat upstream. They build a little fire under the oil pan, so they could crank the old thing over and get it started. The problem was that the way the director wanted to shoot the scene, there was no way to hide the Cat or the winch cable, so they decided that the only solution was to submerge the cat with an operator in the river. Among some other things, they extended both the air intake and the exhaust up, took the fan belt off, got it started, then took the remaining electrical gear off and drove it underwater where the operator in scuba gear worked the winch. Some greenery on top of the cat hid anything that showed above water, and that did the trick. The moral of this story is, that if a Diesel engine gets AIR, CLEAN FUEL and you manage to TURN IT OVER, it will have to start. (Of course, new clean fuel is of no value if old dirty fuel has previously clogged the injectors). Also, if you want to keep it running, keep it cool with clean oil in the pan. Running seawater through a cooling system is also asking for trouble. Even with a heat exchanger, where seawater is pumped to the engine mounted exchanger. It is one of the most problematic systems on any boat. I see it over and over as one of the main causes of engine failure. This is why most commercial boats (and all the boats I build) were keel cooled … meaning that the coolant is actually piped from the engine through the keel or a pipe on the outside of the hull to cool the Coolant before returning it to the engine. No seawater ever touches the engine! I would try to do my best to convert any sailboat to keel cooling, just to keep seawater away from the inside. I also would eliminate all through-hull fittings by going to a single valve Sea Chest. Look at the Rolls Royce of cruising boats... the Nordhavn line. Yes, they are mostly Trawlers but there is a way of getting that done on a sailboat. Commercial boat engines when rigorously maintained can last for up to 40 000 hours. I build four steel commercial fishing vessels in the early 80”s. The last one, (my profile picture) weighed out at 140 tons. All of them, as far as I know, are still floating and plowing the waters of the Bering Sea. Two of them were accidentally run on the rocks, pulled off, repaired and put back into service. I always installed several Heavy Duty (Racor) Fuel Filters on a manifold system (like you). They could quickly be switched over when one of the filters failed. Also keep in mind that the most likely and worst time for dirty fuel to reach the engine is in bad weather when the boat gets tossed around, and old sediment gets stirred up. Not a good thing under the best of circumstances. It is also important that one frequently inspects the filter(s), and that one can visually see the sediment or any possible water in the glass bowl under the filter. There should be a drain cock. A crappy filter, with a metal bowl, which is many times standard factory issue, will filter your fuel, but will not let you see what you got until you open it up after the engine fails. To further prove my point. In the early ’70s, before GPS, I was single-handing my sailboat just south of Punta Abreojos in Baja on a stormy night when I ran aground on a sandbar. As the boat was pounding in the surf, the portholes blew and submerging the cabin and of course the Engine. Long story...At low tide the next day I managed to get the engine started again. I did that by hand cranking it with the De-compression lever pulled. The minute I let that lever snap, that little Volvo got everything it needed, i.e. clean fuel and air and away it went. I cannot overemphasize the importance of clean fuel. Sadly, the shaft was bent and I lost the boat. I never had a problem with anything Diesel I have ever owned, because I always went overboard on fuel filtration. The only Diesel that ever let me down was a piece of crap Volkswagen Rabbit Pickup Truck. The timing belt broke, and the engine exploded. I take comfort in knowing that it was running on clean fuel until it took its last breath. Long live Rudolf Diesel! I truly love your channel. You are both great resourceful trailblazers and a credit to the sailing community! Good Luck to you both.
Thanks Karl. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers. My only problem with keel coolers is there is no good way to cool the exhaust. That and when the cooler (which is in salt water) fails it's much harder to fix. Good points on every thing. Was planning on talking about rough seas and clogging filter but forgot during filming. That is best reason to use the booster pump. Not fun changing filter in bad seas.
I am a very good mechanic and can fix most things. Your videos bring the mechanics back to the day of youth and fun with an engine. Where it is fun and interesting with all the stories that go with it. Great video and a new subscriber, and hopefully, a sailboat is enthusiastic, too in the future😊😊
I love diesel engines, they have always served me well. 3 basics diesels need, are Clean Oil, Clean Fuel, and Clean Air. tbh, for the first 1,000 hours of running, I'd change the Oil Fiter, as even though tolerances are tight, you can still get metal bits from wear in, that get caught by those Oil filters, and I don't like taking Chances, it's worse for Gearboxes and Saildrive legs, because No Filters. Change or Clean, depending on type, Fuel Filters, and use biocide additives in the diesel tanks, and occasionally add injector cleaner additive to the most direct diesel tank feed when you are going to have a long run on engine power. Diesels do love Working but it doesn't have to be too hard to get the benefits with good fuel economy. Carry a spare Air cleaner, or get a decent Cleanable one, as you can find yourself sailing I'm very dusty Air, such asvwest of the Sahara. Do a full drain of Gearboxes and Saildrive legs to get those bits out before refilling with fresh oil. Once run in is complete of Gearboxes and Saildrive Legs, add gearbox oil additives to greatly extend life, but Never before they have fully run in, as they are so good, they may never run in properly. That pretty much covers what I've learned over the years, otherbthan how to treat a Turbocharger Properly, which also needs good Clean suitable Oil. On Startup, never Rev the engine, let it tick over for say 30 seconds, to make sure those Turbo Bearings are getting a good Oil feed. On stopping - which opposes Yanmar non Turbo engine advice, do Not Switch off with high engine rpm, as that Turbo is spinning really fast, andbif you switch off, bye bye Oil feed, and hello Dry Bearings, so tick over for another 30 seconds first. Doingnthatbon Land, with good servicing, that Turbo should do a million miles. I've never had a Turbo Failure thanks to following that regime. Clean air is also Critical for Turbo Service Life. Best Wishes. Bob. 👍🙂
thank you, I just subscribed to your channel. when I repowered the Beta Marine (kabouta block) was much cheaper than the Yanmar. I have had my engine for about ten years now and we recently were having overheating problems, we shut the engine off and were sailing when we turned the engine back on we were going against tide and wind, I turned the engine up a little and it started overheating, we were in the channel and I just had to keep going, I eventually slowed down but the it was being very sluggish and when I turned the engine below 5000 rpms it choked out. Uhh what we discovered after we got towed in was a mess, a rubber hose blew off the heat exchanger and filled out 4' deep bilge with seawater. I called Beta and they said I should clean my heat exchanger every few years! who knew I took the entire cooling system apart and put the heat exchanger in vinegar most of the high pressure side were blocked. its and odd thing that is drawn together at both ends and kind of just stays in place, I also am going to change the fuel filers as it choked out and still won't start. thank you for your clear demonstrations
Two statements I would like to make.... 1. I need to live aboard with you guys for like a year and just learn all the cool stuff you know from engines to learning how to play my guitar. I can sleep in the V berth, ok? - 2. I had anxiety for the second half of that video watching to make sure you didn't bump the old oil all over the boat with the cap not on the bottle!! All jokes aside, thanks for another great video, guys!
We have thought about doing a "learning charter" kinda thing. We have a couple of patreon supporters that will be invited out once air travel is a thing again.
Thanks Rick. If you think your friends might also like our videos how about sharing our playlists on social media? We'd really appreciate the new viewers.
Yanmar engines are very popular and have a good reputation for reliability from what I understand. .. another great explanation Clark... You are so informative and knowledgeable it draws you in to listen to what you have to say and take note.
I attached a short piece of copper tubing to our pump hose for changing out the oil on our yanmar through the dipstick. This way you know it’s touching the bottom. Very good video!
I had to change my oil pan on my 4jh5e. I removed the oil with the dipstick tube (no inner pipe). Then removed the pan. Surprisingly little oil left in the pan. Just FYI
Wow! Just an other great video and thanks for the tip about a separate fuel filtering system. I’ve often considered adding a second fuel filter but not in this way. We here in the North store our boats over winter. I now know how to start my new season by re filtering my fuel. Cheers!
multi filter and multi flow direction thru filters. great idea. i was just watching the Keenan system on sailing miss lone star and while theirs is automated and precise yoursis almost the same thing without the bells and whistles. The Keenana guy speaks of the rough running as a sign of fuel issues and you both fix it via the filtering and polishing. Thank you.
Thanks Clark. My Perkins 4-108 is the biggest mystery to me, but only because I haven’t taken the time to familiarize myself with it. I drive a VW diesel so I have a general knowledge but I haven’t figured out bleeding the fuel system yet because i haven’t had to. I really like your hack on polishing your fuel. Thanks.
The 4.108 is a great engine but it is probably about the hardest engine out there to bleed. I advise you to NEVER run out of fuel. But if it happens your engine is easier to bleed if you run that transfer pump putting positive pressure on the engine. Then go through all the bleed points loosening each vent until clear (bubble free) diesel flows. It's in the book. Just using the electric pump saves you from having to reach down and keep actioning the mechanical on engine pump.
Many thanks for this Clark. I've recently bought a 2006 Jaguar 36 catamaran that appears to have been well looked after and some of the items that you have mentioned that I will require are clearly already here on the boat so this will help me to recognise them for what they are. Cheers.
Get a oil filter relocation kit; something like you find in a Harley parts catalog, or perhaps a John Deere parts store. Getting that up and out of the way makes it easy as pie; and you can even go with a cartridge oil filter so you don't have the messy leaks when changing the filter. And be sure to check the rating of the filter; contrary to what you might think, you do not want a really small (1 micron) filter as it may clog easily which would starve the engine of oil and cause catastrophic failure. And put some oil in that filter when you change it so you aren't running the motor without oil for 20 seconds.
I do really like the relocation idea. Had one on a previous engine and ran it with a reusable/cleanable filter. Really liked that because I could tell if I had issues by looking for metal. I still have the filter. I might install it on this engine next time I get to a place with parts. Great idea! I agree do that to your engine. Wish I had mentioned it in the video. What he said!
Man I kept waiting for you to knock over the used oil jug..... what a mess that would be - put the cap on right away when you finish the extraction... :)
Nice content! So much less things to wory about than on a car. No brake system No transmission? No whiels? No Dif? How hard is it to change the engine? Keep up the good work! Well done on the little boat you are building. Cant wait to see it on the water. Greetings from South Africa. Your almost blind fan.
Thanks for the advice! Really like your setup for the filter system and fuel moving. Been thinking of being able to move fuel between tanks to balance the load.
You're very welcome Steve. If you think your friends might also like them, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
Hi Clark, my wife and I enjoy your videos! I have a Bristol 41.1 that we are moving to in December. I have the same engine, Yanmar 4JH5E, which has been great. Does the engine have anodes? I've tried researching online but haven't found a definitive answer. Keep the videos coming!
Awesome video Clark! So helpful, especially since we have similar engines. Thanks so much for taking the time to put these out there for those of us wanting to learn and become more self sufficient. Keep 'em coming!
Your very welcome David. Would you consider sharing one of our playlists on social media? Hopefully your friends might also like our videos and we would really appreciate the new viewers.
Good ideas. I feel that sense the engine was just run to heat up the oil everything is fully lubricated and the amount of time it takes to fill that tiny filter doesn't matter.
Great idea with the additional pump/filter and valve return manifold system. My current set up has 2 fuel filters before the engine's filters for redundancy, but I plan on another fuel tank and am really considering to reconfigure to your system. Thanks!
Hi Clark.. There is a tremendous amount of air the engine must get into the engine manifold .. staffing things down around the engine can effect the performance
Just convince. Really I sail a lot. Temptress is good upwind (10.5 feet deep) and good in light conditions so it's seldom I motor. When I do motor I still go slow 6k tops, usually 5.5k. Saves fuel and I guess I just got used to moving slow.
Looking forward to your air conditioning kit when it's available. Got the Electromaax alternator and adjustment arm upgrade partially installed. Working through a hiccup on bolts but I have faith. Great videos! Thank you!
Small hiccup: be aware that although the kit is indeed bolt on as described on their website you'll need different fasteners and a couple of reducer bushings if you have a Yanmar 2GM20F motor - they dont come with the upgrade kit. I received my separately purchased fastener kit at a very reasonable price but it has a couple of wrong size parts. I've contacted John at Electromaax and I have faith we'll work through it. If you're purchasing this upgrade I highly recommend purchasing the fastener kit for your specific motor. The hiccup I'm sure was just an oversight. I've done programming as well as communications and low voltage solutions and integration before starting over as a health care professional and its not uncommon to fiddle a bit before things work smoothly. Being patient.
Yes I had a similar problem. They sent the wrong belts first. Caused some issues for us as I only installed the new gear a week before we needed to move the boat.
Good video! I should mention that it made me nervous watching that uncapped used oil jug! From experience the first thing I do is snugly cap any oil bottle (fresh or used) unless actually using it. Also, I don't recall you suggesting a new fuel pump and gasket in your spare parts list- they're inexpensive, small, and oh-so vital. Finally, always use fresh oil (not used) to lubricate the new oil filter. And I personally preload my new oil filters with fresh oil to thoroughly wet the filter media with oil- doing so will reduce the amount of time your engine runs before it sees oil pressure (always a good thing!). I think Amsoil makes a filter system for diesels which not only removes contaminants, but water- this would be a good way to go for your bypass filter system. Happy sailing!
You're very welcome Dros Ras. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
Great video. I have Perkins 4-108 with 5000 hours. What would you say the cruising RPM's are optimal for it from your experience? Also, any good modifications you would recommend for 4.108? Thank you!
The ones I mention here. For the 4.108 the rotery vane pump is particularly important. That engine is a pain to bleed. The electric pump makes it easier. I'd perminatly install an oil drain pump since you can't suck on the dipstick tube. It is a high RPM engine and I understood they do well when spun fast but I never used mine over 3000. I just didn't like the noises it made. I think redline for the proform version were like 4000rpm or more. Only difference in the three models was the setting of the governor. Also, need parts? I have loads of spares I'd sell.
Hi Clark, Can you do a vid on small HP (50hp and below) diesel outboards. Both Baltic Machinery and Diesel Outboard Engines .de carry Yanmar diesel outboards of 27hp and 36ph. Also, Vanguarde Lifeboat sells a 20hp. What are your thoughts on these as main engines for smaller cats and mono sailboats for world cruising?
You said you didn't change a fuel filter until you changed an engine at 30:16. Do you believe if you had changed filters before you may have not had to change the engine?
You're very welcome Shannon. If you think any of your friends might also like our videos how about sharing some of our work on social media? We would appreciate the new viewers.
Hey Clark and Emily. Great video. Tell me something though, fuel consumption. How much fuel to make that motor run for an hour on 7 knots or 5 knots? That is what I always put me off from motors.
I don't know about high speed yet as I don't run there long enough. In fact I don't have hard numbers for any speed yet. But it seems to burn at about 8 miles per gallon at cruising speed, 6k.
@@Clarks-Adventure Thanks! You said so casually that you ran it 48 hours straight that it made me wonder about it. 8 miles per gallon seems fine though.
That run was with the last engine. Since I've changed its been more windy. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
I cant say exactly the fuel use for my 2YM 15 2 pot 13 hp on 30 foot narrow beam 3 ton 1969 sail boat It seems to be about 1.5 liters per hour 60‰ gas (estimated 2000 rpm says 1800 but suspect under read from 80 amp alternator larger pully wheel ) going at 3.75 knots. Prop is fixxed three blade 12x9 probably too small Gear box ratio unkmown The previous engine was 9 hp one pot type which many boats 24 to 29 ft use many and say at 4 knots use 1 liter per hout Those size types can expect 12 to 18mpg st 5 to 6 knots That info looks to be about 11 mpg Imperial on 4.56 liters to imp gallon or maybe approx 9 mpg on USA gallon. Yanmar web site show fuel power curves for thiet engine on a per hour basis. It suugests i use 2 litets per hour for my use type That is possibly baded on bigget prop than mine which might allow 5 knots for 2000 RPM. My cousins 6 ton 37 foot 1985 prout Cat with Z Drive large 3 blade 3 pot 37 hp Yanmar seemed to be at 60% gas about 4 mpg imperial gallons in calm at 4 knots . Any head wind it went to 2.5 knots and 3 mpg quicly Boat types dictate fuel use speed ratio. Older narrow boats often in calms return best MPG with correct two blade fixxed props good gear box direct prop drives at higher speeds than heavy wide fishing type motor boats or bigl high windage multi hulls .
With my 20 year old Volvo/Perkins MD22P I can never get all the oil out, but I don't think that matters too much. The other thing I notice is that the oil level always drops quite a lot when I turn the engine over the first time so I have to top it up again. I literally run the engine for a couple of seconds and then check it again and top up. My engine has always flawlessly started and runs perfectly in the 2 years and 600 hours I've used it. I'd be curious to know how many hours you think you can get out of your Yanmar. You might also want to talk about the pros and cons of turbo - mine is naturally aspirated which I believe is preferable on a cruising boat.
I bet your oil is filling up your new oil filter. I don't care for turbos but if I had to deal with either a size or weight issue I'd have a turbo diesel. I prefer the idea of turbocharging a diesel over turbocharging a gasoline engine.
Interesting thanks. Question1: Can I change it cold when using a vacuum pump? Some people think you can get more of the gunk out at bottom. Question 2: What micron Racor filter do you use?
1 I think oil should always be changed warm. You can get more out that way as thick oil pools thicker. More oil out more crud out. But mostly an oil change is about getting new oil in. 2. I forget, had to dig into my spares. 10micron.
Thanks for your support. Take a look at our cruiseMas in July video. There is a link in the description to everything we outfitted with including the starter.
Just noticed there was no link in this video description for a starter. I just added it. But I see they are out. I hope you can search for a similar thing using the Amazon description.
I really appreciate seeing the same engine as mine, really helps. Any chance to get a new link for a spare starter? Current link and link on cruise-mas video don't work anymore. I think it's a great idea to get a spare but without either a specific model number or link, I don't have confidence to order one.
You're right. It's hard to tell. Im pretty sure I found a reasonably priced unit that should fit and will be putting it up to our Amazon store soon. It's currently going for just under $100us and claims to be a replacement for the yanmar part number. As always, I'm doing my best to shop for all of us. If you get one of these and it works or doesn't please tell me (I read all comments) so I can know it fits or change the link. Also I didn't mention it but I always unmount my old starter and mount the new one once you get it. That way you test the new gear (could be doa) and have confidence in your spare because you have had it installed on your engine and it worked.
Is it safe/OK to pump diesel fuel with the extra/rotary vane pump, like you have in your diagram, through the engine without the engine running or the engine's own pump running? In your diagrams you don't seem to have any vales that could cut off fuel from being run through the engine at any point -- is this safe/OK and intentional? Thanks~
is that valve on the engine input fuel hose only or does it also need to be on the engine output fuel hose before the T crossing so that fuel doesn't accidentally enter in through the wrong hose when you are transferring fuel between tanks? or is it a non-issue due to pressure or something as long as you have an inlet valve to any tank open? thank you~@@Clarks-Adventure
Excellent video and shared personal experience! Do you filter diesel at the pump as well or don’t bother? How do you direct to a specific tank, assuming one inlet? Switch valve? Thanks!
I really only get fuel by Jerry can. I put in in one particular tank and transfer/filter it to where I want it. A couple of my tanks can't even be filled from deck. I just fill the Jerry from the pump. And usually tax-free off road diesel from farm country gas station to save money when in the US. I have a Baja filter but seldom use it.
Clark great recap I am running g a 3JH. The water pump on it is facing aft on port side of engine(hard to get to). It looked like yours is facing forward on port side. Is that correct? Again great video. Fair Winds and Following Seas from the crew of Celtic Lady Seawind II 68K.
I'd have to dig in there to look. But the 3jh is just a three holes version of the 4jh. Mostly the same parts just different by year. If there is another raw water pump made likely it will fit your engine.
No works better before. Turbulence isn't an issue. But if the filter plugged up the pump will draw a vacuum and not function well. Also that filter is for the engine. Having the pump in the manifold let's it function as a transfer pump.
Yes, still having flashes but we now think it's PVD. Same symptoms but you don't go blind. Time will tell but I'm now doing stuff and it's not getting worse.
I'm going to be buying a boat thats been on the hard for two years. The yanmar in it was in great shape when she came out of the water, would there be any special considerations after sitting that long?
Thanks very much for making this video. Got me thinking on different fuel polisher designs. Will the Carter P4594 In-Line Electric Fuel Pump's 6-8 psi be sufficient to push through a Racor 500? Is it a flow through pump, won't it provide any resistance when not turned on?
You're welcome. It pushes fuel through the Racor with no problem. It's a rotary vein pump and should flow fuel when off (with some restriction of course). But, I didn't trust it when setting it up long ago and installed a bypass with check valve so I've not really tested that. One issue with this pump is it has a little stainless filter inside. Open it up immediately and remove it. Your fuel will likely be too dirty for it and it will plug up really fast bringing down your whole system. Let the Racors be your filters. If you think friends might like our stuff please share links on social media. Really helps us.
@@Clarks-AdventureSure. I'd probably add a check valve on the polisher inlet side before the Racor, and another one on the engine diesel return side just before the polisher T-joint.
The only Scary Thing was NOT CAPPING the drain oil jug immediately. What would Emily think of a gallon of nasty drain oil spilled on her Livingroom floor?
I know. I felt the same way every time I saw it during editing. The floor would clean up easily but the bilge would be a different story. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
Mercedes auto recommends changing the oil in all of their vehicles by suctioning from the dipstick, if it has one (another port otherwise). There is a misnomer that you can’t get all of the oil out that way. BS! Do yourself a favor and get a mini pump system that cause a vacuum with a catch either by hand or with compressed air. They are very reasonable. $80-$120.
Great presentation " AGAIN' 2 questions what micron element do you run in the Raycor and do you use synthetic oil ? If not any reason other than cost ? I guess that's three questions.
Yanmar doesn't recommend synthetic, so no. I can't remember the filter size. What everyone uses. They are brown. I really don't buy filters much. Haven't bought one in over 15 years.
@@Clarks-Adventure There are several. Mobil Delvac, Castrol Vecton, Delo 400 (Chevron), Valvolene and likely others. But they are designed for class 8 trucks really and I have no idea if the marine environment would preclude using them for some reason. Not that I know of a reason why they would not be suitable.
@@Clarks-Adventure Sorry, more specifically, how do you maintain a turbo charger? Other than cleaning the screen on the belows is there a lubrication protocol or procedure? I have a Yanmar 4JH2-TE It is producing white smoke. I was told it could be the turbocharger. I plan to remove it. I would prefer to rebuild it myself if it is not too complicated. But looking for advise regarding rebuild/replace. Why did it go bad? Was there a maintenance procedure that should have been going on? Love your channel and the DIY concept. I know your Yanmar was not turbocharged, but that doesn't necessarily mean you have no knowledge about it. Thanks.
Sure, Thanks Scott. I think you should look for other opinions, maybe on forums. I've never owned a diesel with a turbo. All my knowledge is theory and for what you are asking experience is key. I'm just not qualified.
When buying oil, go by the api rating. Not the name of the manufacturer. If the api rating is correct, use whatever you want. Avoid “high mileage “ oil unless you are concerned with ring blow-by. Then never go back to anything but high mileage until you have your rings serviced.
I think the oil made specifically for marine use can have some additives to prevent rust, that you don't necessarily get with the standard engine oil, and which could be why the marine one costs a bit more (if it does).
CAUTION - Don't buy the Knock-Off, Look Alike Racor fuel filter system. They are half the price of a genuine Racor and you don't want to find out why. Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with Racor or any of their subsidiaries or dealers.
Thanks G. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
My Yanmar 6LPA STP2 stumbled and shut off….I suspected the filters so I got both the Racor and the secondary …prefilled them with fuel mounted them and then tried to pump the fuel to bleed it with the button on top of the secondary filter housing loosening the bleed bolt……no luck getting fuel….tried and tried …did a quick engine crank but didn’t want to hydro lock it ….still no good …waiting for mechanic to come out to my mooring to help….I haven’t cracked the injectors yet because I can’t even get fuel out the secondary filter bleed bolt yet….. bolt
Just another hack: on any dipstick, make good marks - either a notch at each end of original marking area (like a kiss of an angle grinder or a Dremel) or drill a Ø 2 mm /0.08" tiny hole in each end of the marking. Helps heaps to make a proper check of the oil level, especially if the light conditions are on the darker side. The original marking area are most often really not thoughtful for the purpose…
Your vids are very good. Too many of these cruiser vids are actually about bikini butts. Give me Clark and Emily's full nerd approach. Bikinis won't help me figuring out solar.
I added a bypass with a one way valve so I just don't know. If I had it to do again I'd skip the bypass. The vane pump just can't seal well when it's not spinning.
You're very welcome George. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
Algae in the tank. With boats that sit for a week or two, or three You wind up with an algae sediment in the tank which comes into play when you go offshore and the tank gets shaken like a cocktail. I know more about.sails than motors, but I am always the.first to hear that motor surge which signals a huge pain coming. Suggestions?
Nice tips. Would you ever worry if you only extract and replace half the capacity of oil in the engine? Do you ever measure the amount of oil replaced compared to the total oil capacity of the engine?
I would recommend changing the oil filter with every oil change. You are not saving anything by cheaping out on the filter. I can recommend the Electromaax kit with external regulator. We installed that on my dad’s boat. V belts belong in the museum not on a boat or car. Mercedes uses serpentine belts since the early 1990es.
Yeah, most of us would change the filter every time,.... but I guess his engine is running so clean the oil is still kind of clean when he changes it, and that that's why he don't see the need for changing the filter as well every time. ....... In some of my diesel cars I actually change the filter in between the oil change (exactly opposite of Clark). ........ The quicker the oil gets black, the sooner or the more frequent I would change the filter, and also for filters paying a bit more is likely better than the cheap ones made in china. ..... And by the way, read the filter instruction for torque when putting the new one back one. Once I did not, and ended up with all of the engine oil in the sump ;-) (it unscrewed itself). ...... Happily I had an oil pressure alarm that was actually sounding (not silent from rust in the buzzer).
For those curious Gas is roughly 115000 BTU per gallon and Diesel #2 is roughly 130000 BTU per gallon. So in round numbers 1 gallon of Gas is equivalent to about .9 gallons of Diesel. So a trip that would take 100 gallons of gas given equal circumstances it would take 90 gallons of Diesel.
How you know that the oil dipstick tube goes to the bottom of the oil pan? Do you have factory drawings ? How much oil you can extract? I have 4JH2E but never tough about putting rubber hose OVER it to extract oil.
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Clark... I agree with everything you talk about in this video, and I want to further emphasize all your good advice by telling this rather long story from my life experiences.
I hope that this will save someone from having problems.
I, therefore, am re-posting the following:
My Father in Law was in the production side of the movie business with Warner Bros. Columbia all his life.
I should say here that he was a very serious man, (ex-Navy) who rose to be Director of Operations at Warner Bros. Columbia before he retired. So I have no reason to doubt this story.
This is what he told me:
Years ago, on location, in the middle of winter in one of the Northern States, a movie scene required a Longboat full of Fur Trappers to be shown rowing upstream. The current on the partially ice-covered river proved to be too strong for the actors rowing the boat. An outboard motor would show a wake, so that was not an option. So, the crew came up with the idea of using an old Caterpillar Dozer from a nearby ranch. It had a winch upfront that they figured could help them pull the boat upstream. They build a little fire under the oil pan, so they could crank the old thing over and get it started. The problem was that the way the director wanted to shoot the scene, there was no way to hide the Cat or the winch cable, so they decided that the only solution was to submerge the cat with an operator in the river. Among some other things, they extended both the air intake and the exhaust up, took the fan belt off, got it started, then took the remaining electrical gear off and drove it underwater where the operator in scuba gear worked the winch. Some greenery on top of the cat hid anything that showed above water, and that did the trick.
The moral of this story is, that if a Diesel engine gets AIR, CLEAN FUEL and you manage to TURN IT OVER, it will have to start. (Of course, new clean fuel is of no value if old dirty fuel has previously clogged the injectors). Also, if you want to keep it running, keep it cool with clean oil in the pan.
Running seawater through a cooling system is also asking for trouble. Even with a heat exchanger, where seawater is pumped to the engine mounted exchanger. It is one of the most problematic systems on any boat. I see it over and over as one of the main causes of engine failure.
This is why most commercial boats (and all the boats I build) were keel cooled … meaning that the coolant is actually piped from the engine through the keel or a pipe on the outside of the hull to cool the Coolant before returning it to the engine.
No seawater ever touches the engine!
I would try to do my best to convert any sailboat to keel cooling, just to keep seawater away from the inside.
I also would eliminate all through-hull fittings by going to a single valve Sea Chest. Look at the Rolls Royce of cruising boats... the Nordhavn line. Yes, they are mostly Trawlers but there is a way of getting that done on a sailboat.
Commercial boat engines when rigorously maintained can last for up to 40 000 hours. I build four steel commercial fishing vessels in the early 80”s. The last one, (my profile picture) weighed out at 140 tons. All of them, as far as I know, are still floating and plowing the waters of the Bering Sea. Two of them were accidentally run on the rocks, pulled off, repaired and put back into service. I always installed several Heavy Duty (Racor) Fuel Filters on a manifold system (like you). They could quickly be switched over when one of the filters failed. Also keep in mind that the most likely and worst time for dirty fuel to reach the engine is in bad weather when the boat gets tossed around, and old sediment gets stirred up. Not a good thing under the best of circumstances. It is also important that one frequently inspects the filter(s), and that one can visually see the sediment or any possible water in the glass bowl under the filter. There should be a drain cock. A crappy filter, with a metal bowl, which is many times standard factory issue, will filter your fuel, but will not let you see what you got until you open it up after the engine fails.
To further prove my point.
In the early ’70s, before GPS, I was single-handing my sailboat just south of Punta Abreojos in Baja on a stormy night when I ran aground on a sandbar. As the boat was pounding in the surf, the portholes blew and submerging the cabin and of course the Engine. Long story...At low tide the next day I managed to get the engine started again. I did that by hand cranking it with the De-compression lever pulled. The minute I let that lever snap, that little Volvo got everything it needed, i.e. clean fuel and air and away it went. I cannot overemphasize the importance of clean fuel.
Sadly, the shaft was bent and I lost the boat.
I never had a problem with anything Diesel I have ever owned, because I always went overboard on fuel filtration.
The only Diesel that ever let me down was a piece of crap Volkswagen Rabbit Pickup Truck. The timing belt broke, and the engine exploded. I take comfort in knowing that it was running on clean fuel until it took its last breath.
Long live Rudolf Diesel!
I truly love your channel. You are both great resourceful trailblazers and a credit to the sailing community!
Good Luck to you both.
Thanks Karl. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
My only problem with keel coolers is there is no good way to cool the exhaust. That and when the cooler (which is in salt water) fails it's much harder to fix. Good points on every thing. Was planning on talking about rough seas and clogging filter but forgot during filming. That is best reason to use the booster pump. Not fun changing filter in bad seas.
I am a very good mechanic and can fix most things.
Your videos bring the mechanics back to the day of youth and fun with an engine. Where it is fun and interesting with all the stories that go with it.
Great video and a new subscriber, and hopefully, a sailboat is enthusiastic, too in the future😊😊
Thanks Charles
Good to see you again, Clark. I hope your eye is getting better.
Yes, looks like it's PVD. Not as bad.
I like when you say "Hi - i'm Clark" - very sincere and welcoming - cheers to you and what you do
I love diesel engines, they have always served me well. 3 basics diesels need, are Clean Oil, Clean Fuel, and Clean Air. tbh, for the first 1,000 hours of running, I'd change the Oil Fiter, as even though tolerances are tight, you can still get metal bits from wear in, that get caught by those Oil filters, and I don't like taking Chances, it's worse for Gearboxes and Saildrive legs, because No Filters. Change or Clean, depending on type, Fuel Filters, and use biocide additives in the diesel tanks, and occasionally add injector cleaner additive to the most direct diesel tank feed when you are going to have a long run on engine power. Diesels do love Working but it doesn't have to be too hard to get the benefits with good fuel economy. Carry a spare Air cleaner, or get a decent Cleanable one, as you can find yourself sailing I'm very dusty Air, such asvwest of the Sahara. Do a full drain of Gearboxes and Saildrive legs to get those bits out before refilling with fresh oil. Once run in is complete of Gearboxes and Saildrive Legs, add gearbox oil additives to greatly extend life, but Never before they have fully run in, as they are so good, they may never run in properly. That pretty much covers what I've learned over the years, otherbthan how to treat a Turbocharger Properly, which also needs good Clean suitable Oil. On Startup, never Rev the engine, let it tick over for say 30 seconds, to make sure those Turbo Bearings are getting a good Oil feed. On stopping - which opposes Yanmar non Turbo engine advice, do Not Switch off with high engine rpm, as that Turbo is spinning really fast, andbif you switch off, bye bye Oil feed, and hello Dry Bearings, so tick over for another 30 seconds first. Doingnthatbon Land, with good servicing, that Turbo should do a million miles. I've never had a Turbo Failure thanks to following that regime. Clean air is also Critical for Turbo Service Life. Best Wishes. Bob. 👍🙂
thank you, I just subscribed to your channel. when I repowered the Beta Marine (kabouta block) was much cheaper than the Yanmar. I have had my engine for about ten years now and we recently were having overheating problems, we shut the engine off and were sailing when we turned the engine back on we were going against tide and wind, I turned the engine up a little and it started overheating, we were in the channel and I just had to keep going, I eventually slowed down but the it was being very sluggish and when I turned the engine below 5000 rpms it choked out. Uhh what we discovered after we got towed in was a mess, a rubber hose blew off the heat exchanger and filled out 4' deep bilge with seawater. I called Beta and they said I should clean my heat exchanger every few years! who knew I took the entire cooling system apart and put the heat exchanger in vinegar most of the high pressure side were blocked. its and odd thing that is drawn together at both ends and kind of just stays in place, I also am going to change the fuel filers as it choked out and still won't start. thank you for your clear demonstrations
I scroll then i see you on holiday and my spirits are lifted ..
Two statements I would like to make.... 1. I need to live aboard with you guys for like a year and just learn all the cool stuff you know from engines to learning how to play my guitar. I can sleep in the V berth, ok? - 2. I had anxiety for the second half of that video watching to make sure you didn't bump the old oil all over the boat with the cap not on the bottle!! All jokes aside, thanks for another great video, guys!
We have thought about doing a "learning charter" kinda thing. We have a couple of patreon supporters that will be invited out once air travel is a thing again.
That’s actually a great idea for you to bank a few bucks and offset the monthly costs.
Great ideas. You are a man of many talents...Curiosity, innovation, perseverance, resilience, calm under pressure. Impressive.
Thanks Rick. If you think your friends might also like our videos how about sharing our playlists on social media? We'd really appreciate the new viewers.
@@Clarks-Adventure Just shared on my Facebook page. Hope my friends take a look,
Yanmar engines are very popular and have a good reputation for reliability from what I understand. .. another great explanation Clark... You are so informative and knowledgeable it draws you in to listen to what you have to say and take note.
Time to start building an any mater, including fish and beer, fuel reactor Clark.
I don't understand.
I attached a short piece of copper tubing to our pump hose for changing out the oil on our yanmar through the dipstick. This way you know it’s touching the bottom. Very good video!
I had to change my oil pan on my 4jh5e. I removed the oil with the dipstick tube (no inner pipe).
Then removed the pan.
Surprisingly little oil left in the pan.
Just FYI
Wow! Just an other great video and thanks for the tip about a separate fuel filtering system. I’ve often considered adding a second fuel filter but not in this way. We here in the North store our boats over winter. I now know how to start my new season by re filtering my fuel. Cheers!
multi filter and multi flow direction thru filters. great idea. i was just watching the Keenan system on sailing miss lone star and while theirs is automated and precise yoursis almost the same thing without the bells and whistles. The Keenana guy speaks of the rough running as a sign of fuel issues and you both fix it via the filtering and polishing. Thank you.
5:16 no bacteria in the fuel! No one ever talks a word about this, you sir are a casual genius😮
Thanks Clark. My Perkins 4-108 is the biggest mystery to me, but only because I haven’t taken the time to familiarize myself with it. I drive a VW diesel so I have a general knowledge but I haven’t figured out bleeding the fuel system yet because i haven’t had to. I really like your hack on polishing your fuel. Thanks.
The 4.108 is a great engine but it is probably about the hardest engine out there to bleed. I advise you to NEVER run out of fuel. But if it happens your engine is easier to bleed if you run that transfer pump putting positive pressure on the engine. Then go through all the bleed points loosening each vent until clear (bubble free) diesel flows. It's in the book. Just using the electric pump saves you from having to reach down and keep actioning the mechanical on engine pump.
Many thanks for this Clark. I've recently bought a 2006 Jaguar 36 catamaran that appears to have been well looked after and some of the items that you have mentioned that I will require are clearly already here on the boat so this will help me to recognise them for what they are. Cheers.
Get a oil filter relocation kit; something like you find in a Harley parts catalog, or perhaps a John Deere parts store. Getting that up and out of the way makes it easy as pie; and you can even go with a cartridge oil filter so you don't have the messy leaks when changing the filter.
And be sure to check the rating of the filter; contrary to what you might think, you do not want a really small (1 micron) filter as it may clog easily which would starve the engine of oil and cause catastrophic failure.
And put some oil in that filter when you change it so you aren't running the motor without oil for 20 seconds.
I do really like the relocation idea. Had one on a previous engine and ran it with a reusable/cleanable filter. Really liked that because I could tell if I had issues by looking for metal.
I still have the filter. I might install it on this engine next time I get to a place with parts.
Great idea! I agree do that to your engine. Wish I had mentioned it in the video.
What he said!
Man I kept waiting for you to knock over the used oil jug..... what a mess that would be - put the cap on right away when you finish the extraction... :)
Nice content! So much less things to wory about than on a car. No brake system No transmission? No whiels? No Dif? How hard is it to change the engine?
Keep up the good work! Well done on the little boat you are building. Cant wait to see it on the water. Greetings from South Africa. Your almost blind fan.
Thanks.
Of course having no breaks means no ability to stop!
Lifesaver video. Please share on how to buy a sailboat (what to check before buying). Thank you.
I hope your eye is healing well Clark. Thanks for the engine discussion. Cheers
Great diesel instructions.
Thanks
GOOD! We are very happy your healed.
Thanks for the advice! Really like your setup for the filter system and fuel moving. Been thinking of being able to move fuel between tanks to balance the load.
Thank You Clark, good to see your eye is getting better. Keep up the videos I really enjoy all of them. Thank You again for sharing with all of us.
You're very welcome Steve. If you think your friends might also like them, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
Good idea about using your polishing pump to assist your fuel pump. I'm going to do that.
Thanks Gerald
Hi Clark, my wife and I enjoy your videos! I have a Bristol 41.1 that we are moving to in December. I have the same engine, Yanmar 4JH5E, which has been great. Does the engine have anodes? I've tried researching online but haven't found a definitive answer. Keep the videos coming!
I should check mine. Yes I think it has a pencil anode near the back of the engine if I remember correctly.
Check the yanmar manual.
Really good ideas,loved the ability to select and cycle through tanks ,thanks for sharing the video
Awesome video Clark! So helpful, especially since we have similar engines. Thanks so much for taking the time to put these out there for those of us wanting to learn and become more self sufficient. Keep 'em coming!
Your very welcome David. Would you consider sharing one of our playlists on social media? Hopefully your friends might also like our videos and we would really appreciate the new viewers.
@@Clarks-Adventure Will do!
I would prefill the oil filter and fuel filter. By turning the oil can sideways it will eliminate the gurgling.
Good ideas.
I feel that sense the engine was just run to heat up the oil everything is fully lubricated and the amount of time it takes to fill that tiny filter doesn't matter.
Its worth watching.
Thanks
Excelent. Thank you.
amazing advise!
Great video ... clear and concise. Thank you.
Great idea with the additional pump/filter and valve return manifold system. My current set up has 2 fuel filters before the engine's filters for redundancy, but I plan on another fuel tank and am really considering to reconfigure to your system. Thanks!
Hi Clark.. There is a tremendous amount of air the engine must get into the engine manifold .. staffing things down around the engine can effect the performance
Great information about engine, many thanks
Thanks for sharing Clarke, great video
could you share more about the risks/issues with having an engine undersized for the boat?
is going from "five knots on a good day" to "seven knots easily" more of a safety feature or a convenience for you?
Just convince.
Really I sail a lot. Temptress is good upwind (10.5 feet deep) and good in light conditions so it's seldom I motor. When I do motor I still go slow 6k tops, usually 5.5k. Saves fuel and I guess I just got used to moving slow.
Good stuff there..thank you. sub'd and liked
Thanks Alex,
We hope you enjoy watching our bac catalogue.
Looking forward to your air conditioning kit when it's available. Got the Electromaax alternator and adjustment arm upgrade partially installed. Working through a hiccup on bolts but I have faith. Great videos! Thank you!
Small hiccup: be aware that although the kit is indeed bolt on as described on their website you'll need different fasteners and a couple of reducer bushings if you have a Yanmar 2GM20F motor - they dont come with the upgrade kit. I received my separately purchased fastener kit at a very reasonable price but it has a couple of wrong size parts. I've contacted John at Electromaax and I have faith we'll work through it. If you're purchasing this upgrade I highly recommend purchasing the fastener kit for your specific motor. The hiccup I'm sure was just an oversight. I've done programming as well as communications and low voltage solutions and integration before starting over as a health care professional and its not uncommon to fiddle a bit before things work smoothly. Being patient.
Yes I had a similar problem. They sent the wrong belts first. Caused some issues for us as I only installed the new gear a week before we needed to move the boat.
Good video! I should mention that it made me nervous watching that uncapped used oil jug! From experience the first thing I do is snugly cap any oil bottle (fresh or used) unless actually using it. Also, I don't recall you suggesting a new fuel pump and gasket in your spare parts list- they're inexpensive, small, and oh-so vital. Finally, always use fresh oil (not used) to lubricate the new oil filter. And I personally preload my new oil filters with fresh oil to thoroughly wet the filter media with oil- doing so will reduce the amount of time your engine runs before it sees oil pressure (always a good thing!). I think Amsoil makes a filter system for diesels which not only removes contaminants, but water- this would be a good way to go for your bypass filter system. Happy sailing!
thank you for all the valuable information
You're very welcome Dros Ras. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
Great video! thank you for all the tips.
You're welcome
Great video. I have Perkins 4-108 with 5000 hours. What would you say the cruising RPM's are optimal for it from your experience? Also, any good modifications you would recommend for 4.108? Thank you!
The ones I mention here. For the 4.108 the rotery vane pump is particularly important. That engine is a pain to bleed. The electric pump makes it easier. I'd perminatly install an oil drain pump since you can't suck on the dipstick tube.
It is a high RPM engine and I understood they do well when spun fast but I never used mine over 3000. I just didn't like the noises it made. I think redline for the proform version were like 4000rpm or more. Only difference in the three models was the setting of the governor.
Also, need parts? I have loads of spares I'd sell.
That open container with you gesticulating nearby, tho.....
Yep. Bothered me during editing a lot as well
Hi Clark, Can you do a vid on small HP (50hp and below) diesel outboards. Both Baltic Machinery and Diesel Outboard Engines .de carry Yanmar diesel outboards of 27hp and 36ph. Also, Vanguarde Lifeboat sells a 20hp. What are your thoughts on these as main engines for smaller cats and mono sailboats for world cruising?
Get them to send me a free one and I'll review it. :)
Seriously I've never used one. They are rare and heavy. I just have no opinion.
Yanmar is one of the best engine..
You said you didn't change a fuel filter until you changed an engine at 30:16. Do you believe if you had changed filters before you may have not had to change the engine?
Nope. Salt water got through the raw water pump. First time I hired a mechanic (and last). He left out a seal
Thanks so much for a great video!
You're very welcome Shannon. If you think any of your friends might also like our videos how about sharing some of our work on social media? We would appreciate the new viewers.
Hey Clark and Emily. Great video. Tell me something though, fuel consumption. How much fuel to make that motor run for an hour on 7 knots or 5 knots? That is what I always put me off from motors.
I don't know about high speed yet as I don't run there long enough. In fact I don't have hard numbers for any speed yet.
But it seems to burn at about 8 miles per gallon at cruising speed, 6k.
@@Clarks-Adventure Thanks! You said so casually that you ran it 48 hours straight that it made me wonder about it. 8 miles per gallon seems fine though.
That run was with the last engine. Since I've changed its been more windy.
If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
I cant say exactly the fuel use for my 2YM 15 2 pot 13 hp on 30 foot narrow beam 3 ton 1969 sail boat It seems to be about 1.5 liters per hour 60‰ gas (estimated 2000 rpm says 1800 but suspect under read from 80 amp alternator larger pully wheel ) going at 3.75 knots.
Prop is fixxed three blade 12x9 probably too small
Gear box ratio unkmown
The previous engine was 9 hp one pot type which many boats 24 to 29 ft use many and say at 4 knots use 1 liter per hout
Those size types can expect 12 to 18mpg st 5 to 6 knots
That info looks to be about 11 mpg Imperial on 4.56 liters to imp gallon or maybe approx 9 mpg on USA gallon.
Yanmar web site show fuel power curves for thiet engine on a per hour basis.
It suugests i use 2 litets per hour for my use type That is possibly baded on bigget prop than mine which might allow 5 knots for 2000 RPM.
My cousins 6 ton 37 foot 1985 prout Cat with Z Drive large 3 blade 3 pot 37 hp Yanmar seemed to be at 60% gas about 4 mpg imperial gallons in calm at 4 knots . Any head wind it went to 2.5 knots and 3 mpg quicly
Boat types dictate fuel use speed ratio.
Older narrow boats often in calms return best MPG with correct two blade fixxed props good gear box direct prop drives at higher speeds than heavy wide fishing type motor boats or bigl high windage multi hulls .
With my 20 year old Volvo/Perkins MD22P I can never get all the oil out, but I don't think that matters too much. The other thing I notice is that the oil level always drops quite a lot when I turn the engine over the first time so I have to top it up again. I literally run the engine for a couple of seconds and then check it again and top up. My engine has always flawlessly started and runs perfectly in the 2 years and 600 hours I've used it. I'd be curious to know how many hours you think you can get out of your Yanmar. You might also want to talk about the pros and cons of turbo - mine is naturally aspirated which I believe is preferable on a cruising boat.
I bet your oil is filling up your new oil filter.
I don't care for turbos but if I had to deal with either a size or weight issue I'd have a turbo diesel. I prefer the idea of turbocharging a diesel over turbocharging a gasoline engine.
Interesting thanks. Question1: Can I change it cold when using a vacuum pump? Some people think you can get more of the gunk out at bottom. Question 2: What micron Racor filter do you use?
1 I think oil should always be changed warm. You can get more out that way as thick oil pools thicker. More oil out more crud out. But mostly an oil change is about getting new oil in.
2. I forget, had to dig into my spares. 10micron.
Spare for Yanmar starter supplier? You never listed it. Great video. I'm a new Patreon
Thanks for your support.
Take a look at our cruiseMas in July video. There is a link in the description to everything we outfitted with including the starter.
"cruiseMas"? Could you please be a bit more specific? Thank you
Sure.
th-cam.com/video/dL4GHwEtQOg/w-d-xo.html
Did you find it? It's in the description.
Just noticed there was no link in this video description for a starter. I just added it.
But I see they are out. I hope you can search for a similar thing using the Amazon description.
I really appreciate seeing the same engine as mine, really helps. Any chance to get a new link for a spare starter? Current link and link on cruise-mas video don't work anymore. I think it's a great idea to get a spare but without either a specific model number or link, I don't have confidence to order one.
I'll look into that Brad. Might take a week or so.
Thanks for noticing.
You're right. It's hard to tell. Im pretty sure I found a reasonably priced unit that should fit and will be putting it up to our Amazon store soon. It's currently going for just under $100us and claims to be a replacement for the yanmar part number.
As always, I'm doing my best to shop for all of us. If you get one of these and it works or doesn't please tell me (I read all comments) so I can know it fits or change the link.
Also I didn't mention it but I always unmount my old starter and mount the new one once you get it. That way you test the new gear (could be doa) and have confidence in your spare because you have had it installed on your engine and it worked.
@@Clarks-Adventure Mounting and testing right away is a really good idea. Do you have a link to the part?
Emily says "done".
So it should be on our Amazon store
Thanks Emily
Great video, thank you~
Is it safe/OK to pump diesel fuel with the extra/rotary vane pump, like you have in your diagram, through the engine without the engine running or the engine's own pump running? In your diagrams you don't seem to have any vales that could cut off fuel from being run through the engine at any point -- is this safe/OK and intentional?
Thanks~
I do have an engine bypass valve I use when I transfer fuel between tanks
is that valve on the engine input fuel hose only or does it also need to be on the engine output fuel hose before the T crossing so that fuel doesn't accidentally enter in through the wrong hose when you are transferring fuel between tanks? or is it a non-issue due to pressure or something as long as you have an inlet valve to any tank open? thank you~@@Clarks-Adventure
I think you will be fine. This pump doesn't make much pressure.
Just a pair of tees with a valve between the intake and return lines.
Excellent video and shared personal experience! Do you filter diesel at the pump as well or don’t bother? How do you direct to a specific tank, assuming one inlet? Switch valve? Thanks!
I really only get fuel by Jerry can. I put in in one particular tank and transfer/filter it to where I want it. A couple of my tanks can't even be filled from deck.
I just fill the Jerry from the pump. And usually tax-free off road diesel from farm country gas station to save money when in the US.
I have a Baja filter but seldom use it.
In the video he shows the set up and how he transfers the fuel using valves that direct the flow to the tank he wants
Clark great recap I am running g a 3JH. The water pump on it is facing aft on port side of engine(hard to get to). It looked like yours is facing forward on port side. Is that correct? Again great video. Fair Winds and Following Seas from the crew of Celtic Lady Seawind II 68K.
I'd have to dig in there to look. But the 3jh is just a three holes version of the 4jh. Mostly the same parts just different by year. If there is another raw water pump made likely it will fit your engine.
Shouldn’t you have the pump after the racor? Keeps turbulent fuel out of the filter.
No works better before. Turbulence isn't an issue. But if the filter plugged up the pump will draw a vacuum and not function well. Also that filter is for the engine. Having the pump in the manifold let's it function as a transfer pump.
What do you mean by a gas engine. Propane gas? Butane gas? LNG? LPG? Thank you.
Gasoline
Oh I should have thought of that, thank you
I hope this video means your eye is ok
Yes, still having flashes but we now think it's PVD. Same symptoms but you don't go blind. Time will tell but I'm now doing stuff and it's not getting worse.
I'm going to be buying a boat thats been on the hard for two years. The yanmar in it was in great shape when she came out of the water, would there be any special considerations after sitting that long?
Yes rust in the cylinders. They prefer to be run. Probably will be ok.
Great Video! How many hours do you run the engine between oil changes?
It's whatever the engineers put in the usage manual. I've seen numbers from 150 hours to 250 hours.
how is your eye?
Much better now
Thanks very much for making this video. Got me thinking on different fuel polisher designs. Will the Carter P4594 In-Line Electric Fuel Pump's 6-8 psi be sufficient to push through a Racor 500? Is it a flow through pump, won't it provide any resistance when not turned on?
You're welcome.
It pushes fuel through the Racor with no problem. It's a rotary vein pump and should flow fuel when off (with some restriction of course). But, I didn't trust it when setting it up long ago and installed a bypass with check valve so I've not really tested that.
One issue with this pump is it has a little stainless filter inside. Open it up immediately and remove it. Your fuel will likely be too dirty for it and it will plug up really fast bringing down your whole system. Let the Racors be your filters.
If you think friends might like our stuff please share links on social media. Really helps us.
@@Clarks-AdventureSure.
I'd probably add a check valve on the polisher inlet side before the Racor, and another one on the engine diesel return side just before the polisher T-joint.
The only Scary Thing was NOT CAPPING the drain oil jug immediately. What would Emily think of a gallon of nasty drain oil spilled on her Livingroom floor?
I know. I felt the same way every time I saw it during editing. The floor would clean up easily but the bilge would be a different story.
If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
Mercedes auto recommends changing the oil in all of their vehicles by suctioning from the dipstick, if it has one (another port otherwise). There is a misnomer that you can’t get all of the oil out that way. BS!
Do yourself a favor and get a mini pump system that cause a vacuum with a catch either by hand or with compressed air. They are very reasonable. $80-$120.
Yes vacuum is the way to go.
Not much is going to perform better then the little brass pump I use. It's still made, by the way.
Is that a heater I see next to you?
Homemade?
Fuel type?
Didn’t see a vid on it anywhere, and something I am interested in
It's a fab-all made in Canada. Burns diesel. Dickerson makes something similar but not quite as nice.
We don't use it a lot down here!
If you buy one put a couple of metal computer fans on the back. Makes a HUGE difference.
They like to be worked put it under a load that’s when they run the best for a very long time
Great presentation " AGAIN'
2 questions what micron element do you run in the Raycor and do you use synthetic oil ? If not any reason other than cost ? I guess that's three questions.
Yanmar doesn't recommend synthetic, so no. I can't remember the filter size. What everyone uses. They are brown.
I really don't buy filters much. Haven't bought one in over 15 years.
@@Clarks-Adventure
So does Yanmar not recommend it or recommends not to use it.?
Big difference
They specifically recommend rotella the shell product.
I am not sure if there even is a synthetic diesel rated oil.
I use synthetic in my Mercedes.
@@Clarks-Adventure There are several. Mobil Delvac, Castrol Vecton, Delo 400 (Chevron), Valvolene and likely others. But they are designed for class 8 trucks really and I have no idea if the marine environment would preclude using them for some reason. Not that I know of a reason why they would not be suitable.
Oops! I forgot the Shell Rotella T6 which is also full synthetic diesel oil.
What about a turbocharger?
What about it?
Yes lots of diesels have turbos. They work better on a diesel then a gas engine.
@@Clarks-Adventure Sorry, more specifically, how do you maintain a turbo charger? Other than cleaning the screen on the belows is there a lubrication protocol or procedure? I have a Yanmar 4JH2-TE It is producing white smoke. I was told it could be the turbocharger. I plan to remove it. I would prefer to rebuild it myself if it is not too complicated. But looking for advise regarding rebuild/replace. Why did it go bad? Was there a maintenance procedure that should have been going on?
Love your channel and the DIY concept. I know your Yanmar was not turbocharged, but that doesn't necessarily mean you have no knowledge about it. Thanks.
Sure,
Thanks Scott.
I think you should look for other opinions, maybe on forums. I've never owned a diesel with a turbo. All my knowledge is theory and for what you are asking experience is key.
I'm just not qualified.
When buying oil, go by the api rating. Not the name of the manufacturer. If the api rating is correct, use whatever you want. Avoid “high mileage “ oil unless you are concerned with ring blow-by. Then never go back to anything but high mileage until you have your rings serviced.
I think the oil made specifically for marine use can have some additives to prevent rust, that you don't necessarily get with the standard engine oil, and which could be why the marine one costs a bit more (if it does).
Am I the only one who was waiting for the old oil container to be knocked over?
Every time I saw it while editing!
I make way more mistakes when in front of the camera.
The Racor Fuel Filter cost $237
Yes, I noticed that too. $276 today. Not exactly chump change but likely well worth it.
I would have knocked it over by now, several times. Lots of bad words would follow.
Oh gosh, cap the old oil jug before you knock it over....
Yeah, I say that to myself every time I saw that seen during editing. I usually am more careful but while taping I slip up.
CAUTION - Don't buy the Knock-Off, Look Alike Racor fuel filter system.
They are half the price of a genuine Racor and you don't want to find out why.
Disclaimer: I have no affiliation with Racor or any of their subsidiaries or dealers.
Thanks G. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
The blue-eyed gorilla erroneously rot because quill mainly whine through a brash italian. terrible, nifty unshielded
I have a Perkins 4.154 which is mechanically governed. Was hoping to get tips on bleeding the system.
Nope not in that video Yanmars self bleed. I had a 4-108. I got good at it but Perkins are a pain to bleed.
My Yanmar 6LPA STP2 stumbled and shut off….I suspected the filters so I got both the Racor and the secondary …prefilled them with fuel mounted them and then tried to pump the fuel to bleed it with the button on top of the secondary filter housing loosening the bleed bolt……no luck getting fuel….tried and tried …did a quick engine crank but didn’t want to hydro lock it ….still no good …waiting for mechanic to come out to my mooring to help….I haven’t cracked the injectors yet because I can’t even get fuel out the secondary filter bleed bolt yet…..
bolt
Just another hack: on any dipstick, make good marks - either a notch at each end of original marking area (like a kiss of an angle grinder or a Dremel) or drill a Ø 2 mm /0.08" tiny hole in each end of the marking. Helps heaps to make a proper check of the oil level, especially if the light conditions are on the darker side. The original marking area are most often really not thoughtful for the purpose…
Seems like a job for a triangle file. I'll have to do that sometime. Good idea!
Absolutely a more smooth alternative ☝🏽
Indeed! I have a 3cyl volvo diesel, love her but the dipstick marks look like a failed Picasso painting. Unintelligible.
Making the readout area satin/matte will also help, if the oil is fresh it's hard to read sometimes on a shiny stainless strip
Your vids are very good. Too many of these cruiser vids are actually about bikini butts. Give me Clark and Emily's full nerd approach. Bikinis won't help me figuring out solar.
One question, would that be a standard, or a metric skosh? lol
Japanese engine so metric
seemed like three metric skoshes to me
Yanmars will last a lifetime, if properly maintained.
Nice vid Clarke. Does the little rotary vane pump restrict the fuel much when it's not running?
I added a bypass with a one way valve so I just don't know. If I had it to do again I'd skip the bypass. The vane pump just can't seal well when it's not spinning.
Genial fuel system. Thanks
Please put the cap on the old oil before you capsize it!
Yeah, I saw it during editing and it made me kringe every time. Hard to do everything right with a camera on you.
Just found your channel and enjoying it. Hoping there’s a more in depth video of your fuel system in your playlist!
No I think I only mention it here, sorry.
But it's likely you might find some other interesting things scattered about in the video back catalog
Very cool, thank you!
Love the tips and tricks, great detail on your channel as always
You're very welcome George. If you think your friends might also like our videos, how about sharing one of our playlists on social media. We would really appreciate the new viewers.
Thank you
Algae in the tank.
With boats that sit for a week or two, or three
You wind up with an algae sediment in the tank which comes into play when you go offshore and the tank gets shaken like a cocktail.
I know more about.sails than motors, but I am always the.first to hear that motor surge which signals a huge pain coming.
Suggestions?
You can't get algae without water. Get the water out of the tank and diesel has a REALLY long shelf life. I've burnt 15 year old diesel.
Nice tips. Would you ever worry if you only extract and replace half the capacity of oil in the engine? Do you ever measure the amount of oil replaced compared to the total oil capacity of the engine?
Unless you are leaking or burning oil you can only put in what you take out. Remember the filter holds oil when changed, that counts.
I would recommend changing the oil filter with every oil change. You are not saving anything by cheaping out on the filter. I can recommend the Electromaax kit with external regulator. We installed that on my dad’s boat. V belts belong in the museum not on a boat or car. Mercedes uses serpentine belts since the early 1990es.
Yeah, most of us would change the filter every time,.... but I guess his engine is running so clean the oil is still kind of clean when he changes it, and that that's why he don't see the need for changing the filter as well every time. ....... In some of my diesel cars I actually change the filter in between the oil change (exactly opposite of Clark). ........ The quicker the oil gets black, the sooner or the more frequent I would change the filter, and also for filters paying a bit more is likely better than the cheap ones made in china. ..... And by the way, read the filter instruction for torque when putting the new one back one. Once I did not, and ended up with all of the engine oil in the sump ;-) (it unscrewed itself). ...... Happily I had an oil pressure alarm that was actually sounding (not silent from rust in the buzzer).
Great stuff. I would have liked to see you bleeding the fuel lines though.
For the Perkins I had in Temptress before that was a real pain.
The yanmar is self bleeding so nothing to show.
Is there a reason why boat people use Racor over Davco fuel processors ?
I've never heard of Davoc
I bet any filter is fine.
Very informative. Could you also put two Racors in series?
Some do with different filters.
For those curious Gas is roughly 115000 BTU per gallon and Diesel #2 is roughly 130000 BTU per gallon. So in round numbers 1 gallon of Gas is equivalent to about .9 gallons of Diesel.
So a trip that would take 100 gallons of gas given equal circumstances it would take 90 gallons of Diesel.
How you know that the oil dipstick tube goes to the bottom of the oil pan? Do you have factory drawings ? How much oil you can extract? I have 4JH2E but never tough about putting rubber hose OVER it to extract oil.
For the 4Jh5e it does. I've had the pan off myself and Yanmar recommends this method .
Newer too old to learn new tricks...🙏🤔😁