You usually have to destroy both of the breather vents on the valve cover to get them out. Just have to try & keep the pieces as large as possible. They dry out pretty quickly & become brittle. Prying them out can lead to bending the Valve Cover. Installing new ones isn't much fun either. Heat the grommets to soften them a bit. That helps.
Heat the grommets and valves with a heat gun. Heat them just enough to get them soft so you can deform them. You are going to chuck them anyway so if you chowder them up, no biggie. Worked for me. 98 TJ 4.0.
I’ve never seen anyone with one of those Craftsman lights like mine before, awesome lol. Gonna try doing the valve cover gasket and that oil filter one you mentioned in HOPES that I don’t have a rear main seal leak…
I would like to point out also that Jeep 4.0 does NOT have a PCV valve it has a CCV constant crankshaft ventilation. Only the Jeep 4.2 had the PCV fitted
Two part question. Are the valves with the grommet the same valves size? Like identical, And if the rear is the pcv valve then what valve name for the front one?
Since both use the same grommet, they should be the same size. I added the parts info in the description, based on Mopar’s description: 53030495, PCV Valve (need 1, this is the black one at the front of the engine) Why both are called PCV valve, can’t tell you.
I know this is an incredibly random question but do you know the nut size for the spark plug holder that sits on the valve cover studs? I can't tell if its a different size or if its also 11mm
Were you experiencing low oil pressure prior to this repair? Got a 00 TJ that just barely stays at the min pressure and I'm wondering if this could be a cause. By low oil pressure, I mean that it's just high enough to NOT throw a check gauge's light.
I have some build up on the base of the engine where the gasket sits flush, it’s ok if clean that with break fluid? I’m afraid some BF will go inside the engine
I’d stick with engine degreaser. It tends to last longer (before it evaporates). If you have to use brake cleaner, simple solution would be to change the oil an hour or so after spraying it.
Great video! I'm in the process of doing the same project on my 97.. what did you use to clean the valve cover? Did you clean the entire inside or just where the gasket meets the cover? Also, I heard you mention paint.. what type of paint did you use for the cover? Was it a high temp paint? Thank you so much for the great content!!
Thank you! I used engine degreaser on the outside to get all the crud off of it. The inside of the valve cover was free of deposits. I didn’t paint anything, but high temp paint definitely a good idea. Good luck!
I maintain our vehicles. Was taught at a young age by uncles and grand-father that were mechanics. It gets easier once you get a few projects completed and gain confidence, learn how to research, problem solve and accumulate the right tools.
The local dealer was able to order them in next business day. Here are the Mopar part numbers I used for my 1998. - 2946079, Engine Crankcase Vent Valve Seal (need 2) - 53030495, PCV Valve (need 1, this is the black one is at the front of the engine) - 53030991, PCV Valve (need 1, this is the grey one that goes near the firewall) Plus the Fel- Pro valve cover gasket kit, VS50458R.
The sequence he used was the one in the Cherokee full service manual for a 4.0l engine. #11 is likely the one where leaks tend to occur at. Mostly because people torque them up to within an inch of their lives.
![Jeep Cherokee: CCV System & Valve Cover - How to Replace Elbow Grommets/ How it Works [‘96-’01 XJ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Qk1PrDcuyZw/mqdefault.jpg)
You usually have to destroy both of the breather vents on the valve cover to get them out. Just have to try & keep the pieces as large as possible. They dry out pretty quickly & become brittle. Prying them out can lead to bending the Valve Cover. Installing new ones isn't much fun either. Heat the grommets to soften them a bit. That helps.
Heat the grommets and valves with a heat gun. Heat them just enough to get them soft so you can deform them. You are going to chuck them anyway so if you chowder them up, no biggie. Worked for me. 98 TJ 4.0.
I have one of those crafsman lights
Very detailed thank you
I’ve never seen anyone with one of those Craftsman lights like mine before, awesome lol.
Gonna try doing the valve cover gasket and that oil filter one you mentioned in HOPES that I don’t have a rear main seal leak…
Haha! I still have the lights in a drawer, but have upgraded to much newer tech!
Mine seeps from everywhere… slowly catching up!
I would like to point out also that Jeep 4.0 does NOT have a PCV valve it has a CCV constant crankshaft ventilation.
Only the Jeep 4.2 had the PCV fitted
I based it on what Mopar calls two of the parts.
“For some reason, this one is missing the elbow!” … 😂
Happy to see someone enjoys my weird sense of humour! 😀
Two part question. Are the valves with the grommet the same valves size? Like identical, And if the rear is the pcv valve then what valve name for the front one?
Since both use the same grommet, they should be the same size.
I added the parts info in the description, based on Mopar’s description: 53030495, PCV Valve (need 1, this is the black one at the front of the engine)
Why both are called PCV valve, can’t tell you.
I think you have the part numbers switched on the valves fyi
Good catch. Updated the description. Thanks!
I know this is an incredibly random question but do you know the nut size for the spark plug holder that sits on the valve cover studs? I can't tell if its a different size or if its also 11mm
I don't remember. If I removed it in the video, was an 11mm.
Were you experiencing low oil pressure prior to this repair? Got a 00 TJ that just barely stays at the min pressure and I'm wondering if this could be a cause. By low oil pressure, I mean that it's just high enough to NOT throw a check gauge's light.
Oil pressure was fine. Did you start by checking if the oil sending unit was working correctly? I had to replace mine a while back.
I have some build up on the base of the engine where the gasket sits flush, it’s ok if clean that with break fluid? I’m afraid some BF will go inside the engine
I’d stick with engine degreaser. It tends to last longer (before it evaporates).
If you have to use brake cleaner, simple solution would be to change the oil an hour or so after spraying it.
@@EricCantin thanks, will use degrease and be careful not to touch the oil
I have two studs that snapped on me simple to replace right ... ?
Depends where it snapped and if you can easily grab it to turn it. Been a while since that happened. Good luck!
Great video! I'm in the process of doing the same project on my 97.. what did you use to clean the valve cover? Did you clean the entire inside or just where the gasket meets the cover? Also, I heard you mention paint.. what type of paint did you use for the cover? Was it a high temp paint? Thank you so much for the great content!!
Thank you! I used engine degreaser on the outside to get all the crud off of it. The inside of the valve cover was free of deposits. I didn’t paint anything, but high temp paint definitely a good idea. Good luck!
Do you specialize in Jeep maintenance? It looks so complicated
I maintain our vehicles. Was taught at a young age by uncles and grand-father that were mechanics. It gets easier once you get a few projects completed and gain confidence, learn how to research, problem solve and accumulate the right tools.
@@EricCantin It's a maintenance family. You own your own auto repair shop
Where did you get your parts, I know you said mopar but they can’t even find it. Can you supply a parts list?
The local dealer was able to order them in next business day. Here are the Mopar part numbers I used for my 1998.
- 2946079, Engine Crankcase Vent Valve Seal (need 2)
- 53030495, PCV Valve (need 1, this is the black one is at the front of the engine)
- 53030991, PCV Valve (need 1, this is the grey one that goes near the firewall)
Plus the Fel- Pro valve cover gasket kit, VS50458R.
You forgot that stud 11 is actually the most important one. No you do not begin in the middle it’s actually 11 with sealer
The sequence he used was the one in the Cherokee full service manual for a 4.0l engine. #11 is likely the one where leaks tend to occur at. Mostly because people torque them up to within an inch of their lives.
Stud 11. How do you tell the stud numbers?