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I have to change out ABS sensor, but it won't fit back down, but when I start to push it down the wheels won't turn, and sounds like it getting catch on the wheel barring gear... Please help

Can you do this on a manual Jeep? I have ford one tonnes and horrible brake pressure.

Hey, I can stop smacking it with a stick now! This is pretty damn simple. What aftermarket fan did you buy before?

There's a keyed bolt on the left side of the mechanism which has a hex socket in it, which actually attaches to the center of the clock-spring as the center axle. If you can slide the bolt out until the keeying pops out of the notch, you can rotate it clockwise one full rotation to increase the spring tension, and then let it pop back into the notch. Be careful since it's obviously under spring tension and wants to rotate anti-clockwise. Only ever rotate it clockwise just in-case you round off the keying, or it won't hold in the notch anymore. I don't know if this is an official service procedure but it seems to work.

🟢cta1284; 15.09’24- I did the clock spring fix to my 2013 JKU back in SEP 2023. Works great without slipping. JK Parking Brake Lever Repair (2013 JKU) •Repair adds a single wind on clock spring to re-tension parking cables. •The clock spring’s tension is not difficult to move. •Should be done with parking brake handle assembly in vehicle ITEMS NEEDED PULL LINE- •20 in. of 18ga wire (Stranded or solid, insulated or not) PLIERS- •Vise grip (Pull line handle) LEVERAGE TOOL- •Large screw driver, chisel or equivalent (Starts movement on clock spring) REPAIR PROCESS o Remove center console & associated wiring; makes the job easier. o Lower parking brake handle. o Cut 20 in. of 18ga wire. o Run wire 1/2 way through the bend of the clock spring’s hook that engages tab. (May need to push hook forward to get wire through) o Start a tight twist at the spring’s hook then continue twisting the wire together. o Run the twisted wire forward / down & feed it under clock spring towards rear of vehicle. o Attach vise grip to end of twisted wire. o The next step will require two movements at the same time- o 1) With a large screw driver, chisel or equivalent, push forward on clock spring hook & down in front while 2) pulling on the twisted wire with the vise grip. o Keep pulling until the hook lines up with the tab. o Shift hook over & slide hook back onto tab. o Re-install center console.

Try siped mudders, like Trxus MTs, with studs, vs unstudded snow tires.

can you put in the link for the teraflex bracket ? Thanks

🤙🏼🙏🏼

Nice video, do you recommend using MOOG 489 or SPICER 5-7166X for these ujoints?

TIRE CHAINS

Just came across your channel. Amazing content Eric. Loads of useful information. Thanks for the efforts and sharing.

Jeep is a funny brand. I wish they hired better engineers for these vehicles and used stainless steel parts almost everywhere, and in all areas where it rusts. Then for an additional 50k-75k on top, give us a generational long lasting model with extremely long lasting parts and easy DIY maintainance. I'm talking Stainless steel underbody, and tranny, diff, engine, housing. Easy tool-less removable body panels that expose all the engine and tranny parts for easy DIY and reaching of all replaceable parts. Reinforced seals, mounts, washers, bolts, suspension, axels, bushings, joints, boots, springs, oil pan, under armor, etc. It can be done. They can charge double or triple and make them enthusiast builds. Thats the jeep I want. One that with refular maintainance can be passed on from generation to generation, like in sci-fi where they keep spaceships around hundreds of years. Sure, make them expensive, that's fine. But make them last. Its also good for the environment.

Man this made me laugh throughout the video hahaha good stuff dude 😂😂

This is one of the better DIY videos on YouBoob. Well done! 👍

I had 4 on my YJ like that. I am down to 2. Never in my life have I had so much friggin problems with lug nuts as this jeep.

What’s the suspension set up on the TJ?

Thanks for sharing!

Had anvance auto replacement, makes more noise than factory one so swapping back.. it was my steering shaft that was problem, and in last year my bottom hose came loose twice. Jeep wrangler sucks, wish i had my old ford escape back, never got stuck in snow with that, got stuck twice in the wrangler.

Really good job on camera placement as well as lighting. and watching hands. Being a mechanic is one thing, but making useful videos and editing them is a comple separate skill. Good job.

I have one of those crafsman lights

Where did the small vacuum line go that you had the zip tie on to the pump?

did mine and I just remove the hinges and drilled them out. way quicker then pounding them out. put brass liners in and stainless pins instead of the screws and lubed them up with a little grease.

Thank you very much for all your time and effort making these videos. Do you happen to know the bore diameter of the J8 master cyl.?

Can you please post the individual part numbers on both the master cyl., and the booster. Can’t really use the brake kit part number as a crossreference.

So where can I get these brackets?

I have seen a few times. Anti seize on brake bolts. And have seen use locktite. I would worrry about anti seize and brake bolt backing out. Thoughts?

i’ve had problems with braking in low rpm since i got my used jeep. usually right when i cold start the jeep. the pump is already on the location bracket under the hood so i’m going to check to make sure the connections are tight. otherwise thanks to your in depth video, i’ll know how to replace the vacuum pump if needed.

Excellent detail. Thanks!

Tell me one thing why do you need bigger brakes on off-road vehicle? XD Stopping power is the same, weight is worse, clearance to rims is worse, mud problems are worse due to clearance. You would not tell me that you need better heat distortion after multiple stops from 140mph😂😂😂😂

There is also 9/16 for some years and a hex.

Did you snap the two wires that attach to the cupholder bulb on the bottom side when you pulled the console free?

What was the ambient temperature variation between the two tests?

Super Cool, j ai hate au prochain video!

Cool fly 🤝😎

I just did the J8 install, I did a couple of things differently that seemed to save time and headache: 1. I installed the master cylinder to the booster before putting the booster in the jeep the entire assembly slid right in with zero problem. 2. I drilled the holes in the firewall out a bit larger so I could reinstall the 4 nuts for the booster from inside the jeep, this meant I could loosely install the backer plate and them slide the entire assembly on and bolt it all in.. I did have to relocate my twin air compressor setup, but found that moving it forward toward the front of the jeep allowed it to clear the master cylinder resovoir and still fit (barely) under the hood I was able to reuse the bracketry with a few small bends on the vice.

Just replaced the strainer and its still leaking slowly. I need the part that the strainer fits into. Anyone have that part number?

It appears they Do NoT make them anymore

Heat the grommets and valves with a heat gun. Heat them just enough to get them soft so you can deform them. You are going to chuck them anyway so if you chowder them up, no biggie. Worked for me. 98 TJ 4.0.

The thing about owning a jeep is a constant barage of fixing stupid shit. Go jeep.

Thanks for this. I bought the kit to replace the inserts but found 'banging' out the old ones a problem and I didn't want to 'go to town' getting them out. I cleaned off the door pin and it helped a lot but I still want to replace the insert. You just ruined the hinge! I was even thinking about just buying new hinges if I messed them up. I'm going to try again in a few weeks and flood them with wd-40 and add some 'gentle' persuasion. I can get the doors off so it's not as bad as yours. My JK is black so maybe a bit easier to cover up any issues. Matt Hudson Valley, NY

Just a heads up. never start the vehicle on an empty pump. Good practice is to install the pump and res first. Fill the res, then spin the pump by hand to draw in fluid. Then install belt last. Jack up the front so wheels are off teh ground, and manually work the steering wheel back and forth as you fill the fluid. This will need about 50 back and forth to bleed teh air out. Once the air is largely out you can start the vehicle. and continue another 25 or so cycles lock to lock while running and cap off. This process will allow your pump a much greater life expectancy

orring part number ???????????

Thank you buddy will check codes when I get home I have non stop air bag light, i called dealership but they have no idea of that recall, it was on old My Jeep app but new Mopar app does that show anything, got an appointment Monday after St Patrick's to see if work can be done.

Fantastic! 🎉

😎

I started to do this then it became apparent that I could use the filter center bolt and screw the filter direct to the block. I used a smaller filter on it. No more O ring leaks. This also works on the 93-99 ZJ Grand Cherokee.

Good video

Information is helpful

Slow and steady wins the race not pace lol

Bud, get some exercise and walk your bins to the curb. Never seen someone use a vehicle to go 30ft. 😂