Had this happen on our 2011 Santa Fe shortly after we'd had it in for our regular servicing at our local Hyundai. Lost power and steering on 100km motorway. Towed it and had the harmonic balancer and serpentine belt changed. Drove fine for a couple of months but started to feel strange again and now we've been told we have a 1782 code. Looks like the actuator might've been damaged during the balancer change? Not sure if they put a new bolt on though, like you said. No idea about cars, just what I've read so far.
Wow, I am grateful to guys like you who post these short, sweet and To-The-Point videos of these issues. When you buy this stuff brand new, it's the ducks nuts, but after the warranty time / Km's run out, ALL this shit starts to go wrong on them and you begin to realise just how many corners have been cut to shave a few bucks off the price. I know that Hyundai isn't Toyota, but these vehicles develop some obscure and completely un-justified faults after about 150k.Km's...
Jesus one can see that the inside diameter of that pulley is going to put a lot of strain on that rubber. had they have made the diameter of rubber about 10mm or less the strain would not have been an issue. the main problem i see with the Korean stuff as it ages is the plastics on the electrical connectors become extremely brittle. aside from that they are very nicely layed out cars to work on and quite well built for the price one pays for them.
Yeah, I would tend to agree with you mate. I have a diesel iLoad 2.5tdi andI have just hit 150,000 and the turbo grenaded last week so I am a little pissed off about that. Hyundai want $2500 for just a turbo and there are many nice looking bolt-ups on eBay. There is even one that is upgraded from the original one so naturally I am curious, but I need reliability because my iLoad is my business is my income and transport. Without it, I an kinda screwed. While it's apart I want to investigate a chirp chirp squeak that is about 3 per second at idle. I hope it was just the turbo but i'm dreading what else it could be.......
Excellent stuff for putting a video up mate, wasn't sure about the bolt but I think I'll be changing it, for 20 bucks it's a no brainer. Yeah crap design, my boss found out the hard way on a vw golf 1.2 tsi engine. Uru
Had mine go at 220,000 KM. The motor has never had a thing other than that go wrong with it. The new pulley balancer from KIA was $680 US. How do you get the harmonic Balancer off? it has no holes for a puller to go in.
The thing is made from polyurethane and metal. if it costs 1/2 the price of the original or less then your winning. its going to fail eventually anyway. its extremely expensive for what it is.
@@fransdebruijn6763 thank you! I agree it's very expensive. The aftermarket one was $140 without the bolt, the original one is $270 with the bolt, but since you've mentioned in the video that the bolt has to be changed as well, so I bought the original.
@@haithamal-qaderi2588 expensive bolt ! the reason they fail is because the inside diameter is too small for the torque. had they machined splines into the ouside of center cup it likley would not fail.
sorry, I'm no longer in the auto game. in the description is where i got one from in Australia. I don't know where you are so it may not be of any use.
Hey Frans. What torque setting is needed for the bolt. I'm ready to put mind back together and am having heaps of trouble finding the setting... cheers.
Not sure exactly. just do it up with a strong rattler gun. You could look it up if you know the size of the bolt and the thread pitch on a chart. usually the torque to yield bolts require a 90 degree turn once brought up to the correct torque. (wbtools.com.au/how-to-understand-angular-torque-and-torque-to-yield/) The head size is 24mm so the bolt is an M16 for an ISO bolt. I don't know the grade of the bolt but is written on the head. Tightening Torque from a chart. wiki.seloc.org/a/Torque_settings Bolt Size , Grade 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 16mm (M16),195Nm,280Nm,290Nm So use these values and then add an additional 90 degrees. I advise you to do your own research on this topic because I could be wrong. If I am wrong, reply to this message.
the power steering will feel chunky under load, the alternator (battery) light will come on intermittently (especially when the power steering loads it down), the aircon will not blow cold air reliability and there will be a smell of burning rubber coming from the car.
Had mine go at 220,000 KM. The motor has never had a thing other than that go wrong with it. The new Harmonic balancer from KIA was $680 US. How do you get the harmonic Balancer off? it has no holes for a puller to go in.
US$680 ? you got arse raped without lube ! Use a ratterler gun to remove the bolt, spray some WD40 in the gap and rock it off left and right with 2 crowbars.
Great video, thank you. I’d be really interested to see how you removed the bolt, since there is no other hole to counter grip the broken balancer.
you can rattle it off with an pneumatic or electric impact driver. no need to hold it.
Had this happen on our 2011 Santa Fe shortly after we'd had it in for our regular servicing at our local Hyundai. Lost power and steering on 100km motorway. Towed it and had the harmonic balancer and serpentine belt changed. Drove fine for a couple of months but started to feel strange again and now we've been told we have a 1782 code. Looks like the actuator might've been damaged during the balancer change? Not sure if they put a new bolt on though, like you said. No idea about cars, just what I've read so far.
Wow, I am grateful to guys like you who post these short, sweet and To-The-Point videos of these issues.
When you buy this stuff brand new, it's the ducks nuts, but after the warranty time / Km's run out, ALL this shit starts to go wrong on them and you begin to realise just how many corners have been cut to shave a few bucks off the price.
I know that Hyundai isn't Toyota, but these vehicles develop some obscure and completely un-justified faults after about 150k.Km's...
Jesus one can see that the inside diameter of that pulley is going to put a lot of strain on that rubber. had they have made the diameter of rubber about 10mm or less the strain would not have been an issue. the main problem i see with the Korean stuff as it ages is the plastics on the electrical connectors become extremely brittle.
aside from that they are very nicely layed out cars to work on and quite well built for the price one pays for them.
Yeah, I would tend to agree with you mate. I have a diesel iLoad 2.5tdi andI have just hit 150,000 and the turbo grenaded last week so I am a little pissed off about that. Hyundai want $2500 for just a turbo and there are many nice looking bolt-ups on eBay. There is even one that is upgraded from the original one so naturally I am curious, but I need reliability because my iLoad is my business is my income and transport. Without it, I an kinda screwed.
While it's apart I want to investigate a chirp chirp squeak that is about 3 per second at idle. I hope it was just the turbo but i'm dreading what else it could be.......
Jesus make sure the DPF is not blocked as that is known to have caused turbochargers packing up.
Where do I look for that? How do I check it / fix it?
Thanks mate.
Its a filter in the exhaust. it traps particles then injects diesel on a long trip to burn the particles off.
th-cam.com/video/aMKpo74P6SE/w-d-xo.html
Excellent stuff for putting a video up mate, wasn't sure about the bolt but I think I'll be changing it, for 20 bucks it's a no brainer. Yeah crap design, my boss found out the hard way on a vw golf 1.2 tsi engine. Uru
Had mine go at 220,000 KM. The motor has never had a thing other than that go wrong with it. The new pulley balancer from KIA was $680 US. How do you get the harmonic Balancer off? it has no holes for a puller to go in.
I found it on ebay, says oem quality after market, would you recommend these or should I stick with genuine one?
The thing is made from polyurethane and metal. if it costs 1/2 the price of the original or less then your winning. its going to fail eventually anyway.
its extremely expensive for what it is.
@@fransdebruijn6763 thank you!
I agree it's very expensive.
The aftermarket one was $140 without the bolt, the original one is $270 with the bolt, but since you've mentioned in the video that the bolt has to be changed as well, so I bought the original.
@@haithamal-qaderi2588 expensive bolt !
the reason they fail is because the inside diameter is too small for the torque. had they machined splines into the ouside of center cup it likley would not fail.
Just happened on my D4HB 2.2L Turbo diesel. Can ypu provide me with the part number? I cant seem to find it anywhere
sorry, I'm no longer in the auto game. in the description is where i got one from in Australia. I don't know where you are so it may not be of any use.
Hey Frans. What torque setting is needed for the bolt. I'm ready to put mind back together and am having heaps of trouble finding the setting... cheers.
Not sure exactly. just do it up with a strong rattler gun.
You could look it up if you know the size of the bolt and the thread pitch on a chart. usually the torque to yield bolts require a 90 degree turn once brought up to the correct torque. (wbtools.com.au/how-to-understand-angular-torque-and-torque-to-yield/)
The head size is 24mm so the bolt is an M16 for an ISO bolt. I don't know the grade of the bolt but is written on the head.
Tightening Torque from a chart.
wiki.seloc.org/a/Torque_settings
Bolt Size , Grade 8.8, 10.9, 12.9
16mm (M16),195Nm,280Nm,290Nm
So use these values and then add an additional 90 degrees.
I advise you to do your own research on this topic because I could be wrong.
If I am wrong, reply to this message.
Hello where find pulley damper cigueñal Santa Fe diésel 2.2 model 2010 2wd
BemoreGT are you asking where you can purchase one ? if you are I really don't know in South America.
Frans de Bruijn yes which company in USA because in my country it very expensive
BemoreGT I'm not in the USA. I'm on the other side of the
Pacific Ocean in the southern hemisphere.
Checked eBay?
Plenty of new & second hand
@ frans de bruijn, does it shows any sign or symptom before that damper breaks? cause i'm a bit worry about my 2011 tucson crdi... thanks!
the power steering will feel chunky under load, the alternator (battery) light will come on intermittently (especially when the power steering loads it down), the aircon will not blow cold air reliability and there will be a smell of burning rubber coming from the car.
@@fransdebruijn6763 Yep that's what happened to our Santa fe. Lucky we had used car warranty.
You don't happen to know how many k's they last? Haven't had any luck finding service manual for d4hb engine
Just had ours fail @ 190000kms..
We calls damper pully
I have 2013 santafe in india
This part need to replace at 50000km
That's it's life span
What eles goes wrong with these motors
Just had this happen on my 2011 D4HB 2.2L
Вот и я говрю раз в 150000 тыщ надо его менять.
"So I say once every 150,000 thousand it needs to be changed"
Apparently, yeah. Not a great design.
Судя по всему, да. Не отличный дизайн.
Had mine go at 220,000 KM. The motor has never had a thing other than that go wrong with it. The new Harmonic balancer from KIA was $680 US. How do you get the harmonic Balancer off? it has no holes for a puller to go in.
US$680 ? you got arse raped without lube !
Use a ratterler gun to remove the bolt, spray some WD40 in the gap and rock it off left and right with 2 crowbars.