*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION* *TOOLS USED FOR THIS JOB* **If you don't see a tool you need listed below, here's a master copy of Timmy's suggested tools: docs.google.com/document/d/1TV08fumiXvyrb6yBMPl0gsp7UlcQEa9lHtqFNiZWOVI/edit?usp=sharing *6 Ton Jack Stands* - (used to support frame of truck and support donor axle housing) amzn.to/2MM91w6 *3 Ton Jack Stands* - (used to support axle housing on truck) amzn.to/2qPYS9O *Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chocks* - (used to keep the front wheels from moving. These are nice chocks that don't slip) amzn.to/2mttRWp *Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun* - (nice strong gun. used to remove wheel lug nuts and many of the fasteners for this job) amzn.to/2M2Y9J1 *Dewalt 3/8" Impact Gun* - (used for some of the smaller fasteners for this job) amzn.to/2uqWnZy *Dewalt Batteries* amzn.to/2urcx59 *Dewalt Battery Charger* amzn.to/2Ud8RlY *Wheel Lug Nut Impact Socket Set* - (nice set for all different size lug nuts) amzn.to/33uatZt *1/2" Drive Deep Metric Impact Socket Set* amzn.to/2WfSTGD *1/2" Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set* amzn.to/2pCrdPQ *3/8" Drive Deep Impact Socket Set* amzn.to/2ZWjY6C *3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set* amzn.to/2KnoYaq *Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set* - (used a 10mm flare nut wrench to disconnect brake line. This is a very nice set with lots of uses) amzn.to/32GoIdy *Vacuum Cap Kit* - (used a 7/32" vacuum caps to put over flared brake line tubing ends to stop brake fluid from leaking out) amzn.to/31hXY2G *Straight Needle Nose Pliers* - (used to remove parking brake line clips) amzn.to/2pQ6yIa *Plastic Mallet* - (used to knock parking brake line pins out and many of the control arm bolts out) amzn.to/2CCOqVP *Brass Hammer* - (used to knock out one of the panhard bolts out) amzn.to/2QS3Ay7 *20 Piece Screwdriver Set* - (several screwdrivers were used during this job. This is a nice complete set) amzn.to/34aLrQ1 *1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set* - (used both these ratchets for this job. These ratchets are super functional and will make your wrenching life easier) amzn.to/2ql8nNA *3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set* amzn.to/2OehCao *3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set* amzn.to/32WIh0M *3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set* amzn.to/37iQjVt *1/4” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set* amzn.to/2QIU7te *1/4” Drive Regular Extension Set* amzn.to/2O9nl2x *Long Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray* - (Good for holding longer tools like ratchets and wrenches) amzn.to/2m89y0D *Medium Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray* - (Good Size for keeping track of fasteners/small parts) amzn.to/2ky8Qt8 *Small Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray* - (Good for holding lug nuts or smaller fasteners/parts) amzn.to/2m6kQ5y *Small Pick Tool Set* - (used a pic tool to help release the extended breather hose on the top of the differential) amzn.to/2MyN4AH *Long Set of Ratcheting Box End Wrenches* - (used these several times in the video. These are great when you need extra leverage) amzn.to/2oOhndL *Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set* - (used a pry bar to force the shock off the lower shock mount. This is a nice complete set) amzn.to/2Ob8THw *Mission Automotive Silicone Paste* - (used some paste to lubricate the lower shock mount post to have an easier time getting the shock in place) amzn.to/2NU1En6 *Auto Trim Removal Set* - (used this set to remove interior trim pieces so we could run the wiring) amzn.to/37vgzvH *CDI 1/2" Drive 30-250 Foot Pound Torque Wrench* - (used this one to torque the lug nuts and larger fasteners for this job) amzn.to/2UPhyjK *CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench* - (used this one for the small to medium fasteners for this job) amzn.to/2U2vUA4 **As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases. **As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
My differential lock stopped working In my 2nd Gen. Tacoma about 3 years ago I bought a factory new motor for the lock As instructed by a mechanic shop nearby. It still does not work. When I push the switch The locking diff light comes on But just keeps blinking and does not lock in. Any advice on how to fix this?
@@rtharmon454 Have you tried driving slow and turning the wheels back and forth a bit to get the locker to engage? Sometimes they can get a bit stuck after they've haven't been engaged for a long period.
@@TimmyTheToolman I did and that's how I was able to build my harness however it does not show the color scamatic for the short harness that goes to the locker I need to figure out which wires go through the 8 pin plug so I can repair it
I have to thank you, Tim. I swapped my rear end in a little under 3 hours yesterday and it wouldn’t have gone as smoothly without this video. I wired it up this morning and when I hit the button, everything worked like it should. I am beyond grateful for the amount of head pounding and swearing you saved me. Thanks again!
You're very welcome and great to hear the swap went smooth for you. Welcome to the e-locker club. We appreciate you taking the time to comment to share your success story with us. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman it feels good to look over and see the warm glow of that button. Now with all this fresh snow in the Sierra, it may be a good time to go give it a proper test! Keep up the killer content.
Just got my 98 all done thanks to you man. Went from a death wobbly leaky mess to what everyone tells me is a seemingly brand new vehicle. (I spent a lot of time on the interior cleaning, and paint correction). Did all the suspension bushings, as well as steering rack, Valve cover seals, rear cam seals, and oil cooler seal. Timing belt, water pump Now that my rig is finally a reliable, awesome daily driver, and all purpose 4x4. I’m gonna thinking about adding an e locker soon. The truck definitely needs axel seals anyway so in the not so far off future when I wanna add 33s and a small lift to my rig I will revisit this video and study it carefully to do this swap. For now I’m just gonna enjoy it in it’s near stock form. Gonna make the best of it even with an open diff. Other future planned mods are: tundra brakes, a front Spartan locker and manual locking hubs. I think it would be so cool to run dual lockers on it but I also want the ability to disconnect the front axel from the hubs if I’m going to do that. But for now I’m done spending money on it. Only money I want to spend on it is gas! Love my white 98 SR5. Best vehicle I’ve ever driven.
Great to hear our videos have assisted you with your rig. Good luck with the e-locker mod, TBU, manual hubs, and whatever other sic mods you've got planned for you rig. Happy Wrenching Bro!
@@TimmyTheToolman I been watching this video on and off studying it for the last few years finally got my Match 4:30 e locker front and rear axles few weeks ago and cleaning it and preping it for the install in the next few months for my wifes Rig .. Was hoping low range still had the harness to make life faster since my wife uses hers as a daily but very straight forward on the Wiring very detailed video so exited... would be sick of you could install these e locker axles on the 4th gens as well.. Sic Mods For life
About to install the e locker axle thays been sitting in my shed for over a year now. This video was a huge help and made the task seem much more manageable. Thank you!
Hey Tim just wanted to reach out and extend my thanks to you and all of the guys for the videos. I recently just swapped out my entire trans and driveline on my 2001 Limited and put in the E locker. I appreciate all of the details and time you guys take. You are my go to for maintenance! I was able to find an E locker ECU for a song recently so the wiring tutroial is awesome. Thank you Sage for the demonstration.
Great to know our videos have helped you out. You're very welcome. I doubt Seydzh (it's Russian) will see your comment, but I know he'd appreciate it if he did.
For the axle, I jus rested it on the 3 ton jack and strapped it to the jack so it couldn’t pivot or move. Then disconnected everything. Then just rolled her out nicely without worry. Did the same to get the new one in. No strap makes it complicated like you said since the diff is very heavy and wants to pivot down. Hope this tip helps someone if they attempt alone like I did. I don’t have those strong legs lol
Yeah, ratchet straps would have been a good idea, especially for the the jack under the 3rd member. The jack on either end were very stable but the one under the 3rd member wasn't a very stable support area due to the shape of the 3rd member.
Thanks Hashim, glad you like our channel. We have a couple videos for 5th Gens and we'll have more as time goes on. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Wow! Awesome video, I am headed to pick and pull tomorrow and might come home with a rear locker for my 98 limited. Wife will not be happy but like you said really straight forward. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks John and you're welcome. Hope you score a locker for your rig. People are usually pretty quick to scoop these up but there is treasure to be found at these PicknPulls. Happy Hunting!
Thank you, Timmy. I got a locker from a buddy of yours recently. Gentleman owns the red 4runner that makes appearances in your vids. I look forward to following your tutorials for my install. Cheers!
just got a nice clean 3rd gen and this is definitely on my to do list. thank you for making such a detailed guide, it really makes the job look doable.
Great video! Really helped me do my swap with ease. I do want to point something out, I have a 97 and the pin used for the diff locker light on the cluster is different on I assume 96 to 98. Instead of being the fifth one from the left, it is the second one from the next row after the split on the brown connector.
We're glad the video helped you out. Thanks for pointing out the difference for the dash locker light on your 97. Obviously there's some differences between the years for the wiring for the dash lights.
Yianni i have the same issue here. 97 SR5 the 5th pin is used by a green/red stripe wire. slot is empty on the brown plug. ...Can you confirm the diff lock illuminated using the second after the split ?
Glad our video came at a good time for you. Good luck with the job and let us know how it goes for you. We're stoked you think so highly of our channel.
Kept thinking to myself. Fellas don’t disconnect the driveshaft just yet. Save it for last so you could keep using the floor jack for the shocks and uca’s and avoid front pinion pivot. Glad no one got hurt. Great install nonetheless!
So you think the driveshaft disconnect should be the last step? I'll buy that. You'd just need to get a jack stand under the 3rd member in preparation for it to pivot once the driveshaft and 3rd member separation happens.
Most definitely with the Taco and FJ work I’ve done it’s the safest. Once all has been disconnected. Drop the floor jack all the way down with the axle. Then while one guy holds the axle which now sits about 3” off the ground the other can disconnect the driveshaft. The yoke allows it to drop almost all the way down to the floor.
Appreciate the information timmy I purchased a 2000 Toyota 4runner Limited 4x4 Monday and want to swap the rear axle with a e locker mine is the sane color as the the one your next to all the info helps @5:55 @Timmy The ToolMan
@@TimmyTheToolman appreciate that bro just gotta find a Front and rear diff with 4:30 gears and the e locker my truck I just bought was already lifted with rock slider and tons of goodies even had a rear view mirror that has a compass and outside temp looks like mirror came from a 2005 Ford f350 heated mirrors and some other nice goodies blisten shocks with adjustable dampeners
Grinding out the housing isn't to bad at all to do if all you can find is a e locker 3rd member me and friends have done it many times to install them in 1st gen runners and trucks. Just buy an e locker 3rd gasket and trace it onto housing and get to cutting, of course test fit the third along the way also. We usually use long bolts in place of the studs you have to add. I also reccomened buying a motor guard to protect it on the trail.
Timmy The Toolman We've used many things lol. Plasma cutter, skinny wheel on both electric and air grinder. Of course starting slow and checking fitment as you go along. Usually doing the final fitting with like a carbide bit on a die grinder, file etc.
Gotcha. It seems in our area we get enough 3rd Gens popping up in the PickNPulls and if you get there quick enough, you can get the whole enchilada and not have to do any alteration to the housing. After doing this job it got me thinking that I might do the swap on my 2000 4runner.
Thank you for this video! I already installed my button in my 99 and it had the wiring already for it - can I use that same wiring? Where would the other end of the wiring go to, I assume the kick panel? I'm wondering since it had that, if it also has the wiring for the brown block plug on cluster too, will just have to see on that one.
Hey thanks for all the videos! Very helpful. I have a 99 w/ 2-4 select switch. The wiring diagram says without this option. What will i have to do differently?
Any reason that you could not use just one power source for the ECU and switch? I know that the original factory wiring uses separate power sources, but I thought about just combining them to a single source. Thanks!
Thank you for this helpful video. I am trying to establish if I have a limited slip differential on a Toyota Land Cruiser. When I jacked it up and turned the right rear wheel in either direction the opposite wheel does not move and the same when I turned the left rear wheel in either direction. Does this mean I have a fault in the limited slip differential ? Could you please advise, thank you.
Hey Andrew, I"m not an expert with these differentials. With my experience, when you spin one wheel, the other should turn as well. Maybe look up more videos on the subject and see what you find out.
I recently swapped my 95 Tacoma axle for a 2000 Tacoma axle with an e locker. It all bolted up perfectly. I noticed when looking at the wiring diagram for the 2000 Tacoma e locker, that the green and orange wire is supposed to go to the speedometer. You’re saying that if I ground that wire it will disable the 5 mile an hour limit, and if you don’t ground the wire it will keep the restriction of 5 miles an hour. My question is, wouldn’t you need to connect the green and orange wire to the speedometer to stop the the e locker from engaging over 5 miles an hour? My thought process on this is that the ECU doesn’t know how fast you’re going without that wire connected to the speedometer? Everything you have shown on this video was very helpful but I really want to have the 5 mile an hour safety feature and know it’s going to work.
This is a good question. The wiring diagram we used doesn't show how you should connect the those wires if you want the safety feature that you can only use the locker when you're in 4Lo and you can only use engage it when you're going 5 mph or less. I don't know if you can just choose not to ground those wires and the e-locker will work just like it came from the factory. I looked for wiring schematics in my manuals but I couldn't find anything showing where the #10 pin and #8 pin on that female plug route to. I don't have time to do it tonight but maybe I can take a look at my 98 and see if I can trace where that #8 and #10 pin wires go.
@@TimmyTheToolman "Pin 10 on the 4WD ECU, G-O wire connects to pin 3 at connector A on the gauge cluster for the speedometer," for a 1999 Tacoma. This is what a guy said on the Tacoma World forum. He had a wiring diagram, I downloaded, that showed this install. Unfortunately, my 1995 Tacoma doesn't have this option.
@@TheHBHikerBoyScout Well, worst case scenario is you have to ground out those safety features. If you're the only one that drives the rig, it's not a big deal. If somebody else drives your rig, maybe just tell them not to push this EVER, or put a piece of tape over it saying, "Do Not Push". It's not really something you would accidentally push so somebody would have to purposely do it. I know it's not the solution that you wanted but it will work.
Thanks guys for showing us at home how to properly perform this job. My question for you is... is it worth it to put this setup in an 02 4runner with vsc and atrac. What are the ups and downs of doing such a thing. Again guys thanks for the knowledge and taking the time to film this. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars swapping out my front struts in my daily driver with the videos you produced.
I definitely think it's worth doing in an 02. A locker will definitely help you while off-roading regardless of the VSC and ATRAC. The ups are better off-road performance. It could help you get yourself out of a situation you would normally need to be pulled or winched out of. The downs are the time and money you have to invest in doing this mod. Great to hear you are making good use of our videos and saving yourself lots of money. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the info, now my hardest job is to find one that's not rusted to flakes for a reasonable price. Can you do a video in the future on how to bypass the vsc/atrac system I don't think it would be as easy as pulling a fuse haha. Thanks again guys.
The rear differential locker was an option you could purchase when buying a 3rd Gen 4runner. It didn't come on all 97 4runners. This video is for those people who weren't lucky enough to buy a used 3rd Gen 4runner that already had a locker on it.
Hey Tim. Thanks for yet another very helpful video. I wanted to chime in here incase anyone ran into the same situation that I did - for lighting the RR DIFF LOCK light on the cluster, I had to use pin 8, instead of pin 5 as you demonstrated in the video. My pin 5 went to the ECT PWR light. I have a 98 SR5 4WD 4R. Any idea why the ABS light does not come on when you lock the diff? In 4runners with a rear locker from the factory, the ABS light will always come on with the diff lock.
correct me if im wrong so there is 2 plugs that conccet to the diff (6pin which have 5 wires, and the other 2 pins) and then they all join to be one plug at the end which have 8 pins ? i have axle from 2008 fj cruiser and have same plugs so if i buy the rear wiring harrness in the daigram and flow the steps i should be fine right? and since this is sperate system im guessing any 4wd ecu should would work with it just fine
It sounds like it would work but we can't guarantee it will. Will an ECU meant to communicate with an e-locker from a 3rd Gen 4runner effectively communicate with an e-locker from an FJ Cruiser? We don't know until someone like you gives it a try. Obviously I would bench test it before going through the pains of installing it on your rig.
I noticed you said to use a first gen tacoma e locker, you would need to weld spring perches and stuff to the axle.. are the third members not interchangeable?
The 3rd members are the same for the 3rd Gen 4runner and 1st Gen Tacoma. The axle housings are different because one uses leaf springs and the other coil springs.
After perusing a lot of info on this subject I was ready to put in an e-locked axle I have on a parts truck. Apparently it ain't so simple! You're saying I would need the matching front axle as well for correct operation? Virtually no one mentions strictly sand 4x4ing, which is all I'll ever do, aside from maybe occasional snow/ice in my community/city. In your opinion is this mod "worth it" for 99% street use, maybe 10hrs of beach/sand use, and even less experiences in snow? Thanks Timmy
It won't be worth it to you. Just get some traction boards and carry a shovel and that will get you out of most sand situations. I bought the MaxTrax boards because of their quality and reputation. I think they were the original makers of these boards and then others have copied them. But, the cheaper versions aren't as good from what I've heard. The MaxTrax are durable and flex well without breaking. Here's a link. They come in different colors. I have the olive colored ones. amzn.to/31oqjad
This video has been so helpful as I’ve been taking on my locker swap project! I just completed the wiring today and my locker is functioning which I’m super happy about! I do have a couple things going on that I’d like to ask about if you have time. Not sure if these are correct indications or maybe I made some bad connections. 1. My switch is constantly lit up whether it’s on or off? I was expecting it to only light up when pressed in. 2. I’m having to fill both spots in the add a circuit with fuses for everything to work properly. If I only run one fuse then my gauge cluster and power windows do not function. Looks like you only have one fused plugged into the add a circuit in the video?
Hey Tim, this was our only experience with this job. When we were done with the job, the switch would only light up when it was pressed. Yes, we only had to use one add a fuse to get everything working. I'm sorry I couldn't be more help to you.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the quick response! I’ll dig further into the forums and see if I can find anything. Will post back up here if I do. Anyhow, the the swap is complete and locker is working all thanks to your help! Thanks for taking the time to put these videos together!
Thanks for the thorough video. I’m assembling the parts to do a swap and the video is s tremendous resource. Q: Will I need the aftermarket sway bar brackets if my ‘99 is and will remain stock ride height? Also, I’m in San Jose... Tim, would you consider helping me do the install if I compensate you for your time?
Hey John, With a stock height rig, you shouldn't need the Sonoran Steel sway bar lift brackets. I was helping people with jobs we've already filmed but I found myself getting burnt out on wrenching. The time I put into the TH-cam channel is a lot. With a full-time job, girlfriend, other responsibilities, other interests, I decided to limit my wrenching time to making new videos and keeping my own vehicles mechanically sound. I can do the most good by making new videos that anyone with an internet connection can find and benefit from. When I help out just one person, that's great and all, and I've made some new friends this way, but I had to draw the line somewhere to maintain my motivation to keep this TH-cam channel going with Sean. So, sorry John, I'm going to have to turn you down on helping you with this job. I'm sure you can find one buddy or family member that can help you out. If you take your time and follow our video, you'll get it done no problem. Good luck!
Have been searching web for hours. No luck. Going long travel with links on my 1st gen Tacoma. Wondering if the tundra rear axle will work, and work with e locker? If even has one.
This is above our pay grade Justin. We don't know either if a Tundra rear axle will work. I suppose with some alteration, you could make most anything work though. It's just a question of how much fabrication you want to deal with.
That's interesting Ben. I thought the e-locker 3rd members were all set up with 4.30 gearing. Update - Sean told me Tacoma e-lockers did come with 4.10 gearing.
Hi @Timmy The Toolman, I have a 2002 4Runner with the center diff lock and recently installed a new third member with a harrop elocker. My third member only has 2 wires coming out of it for the locker and i'm wondering if you have heard of a way to wire an aftermarket locker like its stock in order to retain the 5MPH safety feature? Any thoughts are appreciated and thanks for making awesome videos to help with wrenching!
I don't have an answer for your question Ben. This is something we haven't tried. I would just make your locker switch hard to accidentally switch on, basically like the OEM switch. The OEM switch is a push button and the button doesn't extend out past the dash, so it's hard to accidentally actuate it.
Hello Tim, your video was very helpful as I did the exact swap in my 1998 4Runner, I am struggling a bit with the sway bar hitting the e-locker motor and I was wondering what you did so it would clear? Toyota sells another sway bar that has different bends to clear the motor but I was wondering if you had some trick to make the original sway bar work? Thank you
Sonoran Steel sells a lift bracket for the rear sway bar. He sells them with his lift kits but he would probably sell it separately too I think. The lift brackets will move the sway bar up and away from the e-locker motor.
Christopher Galvan Hey Chris, we actually mention this option in the video and in the video description. But yeah, you're absolutely right that the pre-made harness that Low Range Offroad sells is an option. It's just going to require you to part with more money and that might be a big deal for some folks. A friend of mine picked up a front differential, entire elocker rearend, ecu and all the necessary wiring for $200 from a PickNPull. That wiring harness alone is almost as expensive as all that.
Timmy The Toolman I got mine from picknpull also for $171 + taxes. Axle,ecu,oem button. I did a stud eliminator and prepped the axle and painted it like this fella. Also put in new oil seals. I got some 18/7 sprinkler wire to do my wiring harness. The wire isn’t ideal since it’s solid and not stranded but it’s held up for a year now.
Yeah, when my buddy Wei said he picked up the whole enchilada for $200, I started thinking I might try to find one for my 2000 3rd Gen and do the swap as well.
Christopher Galvan does this include the ecu? Or is it not needed with the kit? Just sourced a 4.10 complete e locker axle but I don’t have any wiring yet
Hello, Wondering on the harness link in the description. Do I choose low pinion locker or the FJ description. Second thing when you order it, is the button for rear locker be the factory one or some new one? Thanks
I have a question. I have a 1997 limited 4x4 4runner with a factory E-locker. I want to swap the push button transfer case with a j shifter one (I plan on doing manual hubs as well). But to engage the E locker you need to shift into 4 low. If I swap in a j shifter for a fully manual 4x4 system, will the E-locker no longer engage because there is no signal that it’s in 4 low?
Good question, not sure if those different t-cases have different connectors. If they do, look up the “blue wire mod” where you can ground the blue wire (blue/red stripe) to allow your e-locker to work in 2 or 4 hi or low.
Hey Tim I appreciate the video and information. I installed an elocker in my 1996 4runner. Hooked everything up and I can hear the locker working. I don't however see the indicator on the dash. I added the additional wire to the harness and it appears the dash bulb works. Any suggestions? Thank you
Don't know. If you got that repair wire terminal into the right plug on the dash cluster and into the right spot in the plug, it should work if you wired everything correctly.
@@tannersmith5946 Hey Tanner, so did you put the wire in the same slot as i did? Pin 5 on the brown connector? Cause I'm installing it on my buddies truck and nothing lit up.
I am going the same route as Sage, I have both front and rear diff from a ‘00 w ecu and wiring. However, I want to put it on my 01’ with CDL and I was wondering if I have to do anything different because of the CDL
We already made a video of swapping a front differential last year. The link to the video is in the video description. Make sure to read the video description for the front diff swap and also read the pinned comment from me. After the job, we learned a much easier way to get the diff out and back in.
Going to look at a 4runner with a locker, and I want to test to make sure the locker works. I doubt it has the 2hi wire mod, and I'm wondering if listening for the 'chirp' of the tires will still be evident in 4lo. Any other suggestions on testing or do you think the rear chirp will still be obvious?
I picked up an E-locker full axle to replace the axle in a 2WD '99 runner. Do you know if the factory E-locker control module will work with a 2WD truck?
Hey Timmy thanks so much for the help . I have my harness just about finished except for the end that plugs to the diff. The male end that plugs to the end coming into the car do you happen to have the wire color code for that male end? Mine is messed up and I'll like to repair it
You know for a fact all of them came with a 4.10 stock from factory? Because I'm having problems with my 98 3.4 4x4 I suspect the rear differential does npt match up with the front differential .
excellent video enjoyed it. I want to ask a stupid question. what is the purpose of an electronic rear diff locker. Why not just a solid locker? I have a 2004 tacoma trd with electronic locker and always wondered why they say don't go over 5 miles a hour. Im gonna assume its with solid locker characteristics.
Glad you like the video. With a locker both wheels turn at the same speed. Under normal driving conditions, you need the wheels to be able to move at different speeds when you are going around a turn. The outside wheel needs to travel further than the inside wheel and that's what a normal differential allows your wheels to do. When you engage a locker, now your wheels can't spin at different speeds. They turn one for one with each other. The reason for the locker is to give you more traction. With a open differential, if a wheel is off the ground or losing traction, that's the wheel that will receive the power. Once you engage the locker, the wheel on the ground with traction will also get power and you can hopefully keep moving and get yourself unstuck. The locker isn't meant for high speed use. It's only for when you're in a tricky situation and you require more traction. If you drove with the locker at speed and ended up turning a corner, you'd destroy the differential and most likely your axles as well. That's the reason for the 5mph safety built into the system.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the quick response. I had a locker in my jeep cj years back and I thought they had clutch packs or something to compensate on a turn.then locks back in when straightened out. like a Detroit locker.
@@scotthubbard973 Oh, now I know what you're talking about, that's what they call a lunch box locker. It's self actuating. Those are ok but lots of people don't care for them because they can act kind of funny on the road and sometimes your wheels chirp because they lock up a little on a turn. I have one the front of my 85 4runner.
@@TimmyTheToolman yes sorry I wasn't very clear that is actually what I meant. Why didn't they put in a locker like a Detroit locker and always have posi than put in one that you activate. just watched your install video of a super charger on 3.4 liter which I have been very interested in doing on mine. in your opinion, would you recommend any other additions with the super charger? after looking at forums other additions such as URD upgrade and 7th injector are recommended. Have there been any issues with the addition so far? just thinking about factory specs and emissions and any weak links in the drivetrain. thanks
@@scotthubbard973 The supercharger has worked well for Sean but he does get some pinging. He is going to do the 7th injector and tuner mod soon and of course we will film it.
I don't think the type of transmission matters. The e-locker ECU does communicate with the transfer case to send the message to enable the differential to lock when the transfer case goes into 4Lo but it doesn't communicate with the transmission as far as I know.
@@TimmyTheToolman makes sense thank you! Also noticed they didn’t show the wiring connecting from the locker side to the trailer wire but showed the trailer wire to ecu. My set up came complete OEM wires all the way to the 2 connections inside the cabin just past the gas tank. Just wondering where to cut to wire to trailer wire
I really want to swap an elocker in my manual transmission 4runner. Wich option do i have since it's super rare to find a 5spd 4runner with e locker in a junk yard? Is an front differential on a automatic can fit on a 5speed 4runner to match the rear 4.3 diff ratio that ?
You can get an e-locker from any 3rd Gen. It doesn't have to come from a 5speed. You just have to make sure that you match the differential gears from and rear. So yes, 4.30 gearing front and rear.
Just out of curiosity...Is there any purpose for disabling he 5mph protection to engage the locker? I understand its optional if you ground it or not but can't think of any benefit .. anything else than damaging your actuator or even the diff. Am I missing something?
It's so you don't have to absolutely come to a crawl when you want to engage the locker. I personally think this protective feature is good because and I wouldn't defeat it by grounding it out. I think the chances of accidentally hitting the button is pretty minimal but what happens if you let someone drive your rig that's not exactly the sharpest tool in the shed and they engage it at freeway speeds. Very bad things are going to happen.
@@TimmyTheToolman Your welcome, I've been watching your vids for about a year. You do a solid job of explaining things. Glad your out there for us 4runner newbies.
GREAT VIDEO GUYS!!! So, my question relates to the ABS wires. On the connector(s) at the fuel tank, where they exit the cabin, there is a white and black connector. The black connector, there are two (2) wires that exit to the exterior and I believe they are ground wires. On the white connector, it contains wires for the e-locker and the ABS sensors.I am using a donor harness and there is one ABS wire that is directed where I didn't expect it to go. Do you have a wire diagram for this connector - or do you know the answer of the top of your head? Thanks
Question.. Other than being a normal 4 runner option and full control (being able to lock/unlock at will), is there a reason this might be better or worse than a trutrac (torsen diff)? I like the idea of torsen diff and have been looking for what would really be the best choice but I have decided that if I decide on locker that its going to be the factory e-locker. I would appreciate hearing your opinion. Thanks!
Hey Thomas, my buddy Jordan has a trutrac both front and rear on his 3rd Gen and he really likes it. It's not a true locker but it has worked really well for him. So, it's definitely a viable alternative to a full locker.
@@TimmyTheToolman I like the idea that I wouldnt have to turn the locker on/off and that in theory it automatically shifts on the fly. I hear some downsides from some race car enthusiasts that torsen cant handle rough handleing like hitting the gas and this is what I'm trying to consider for offroading where I might abuse the gas peddle through mud pits or something. BTW.. I really appreciate your videos These are amazing for 3rd gen lovers!
Wiring question: If I want to add the safety feature that allows the actuator motor to work only under 5mph, where would I plug the wire from the ECU (pin 10) instead of grounding it?
Hey Tim I installed the locker in the locked position but the switch wasn’t in the locked position and won’t engage the locker. What do I do to reset it?
@@GabrielRodriguez-ko9qg Take the actuator off and use a screwdriver or similar tool to unlock the locker. Once that is done, the switch and locker will be in sync.
Is it possible to change my 2002sr5 2wd auto rear axle to a rear axle with the e locker? It has trac and vsc, and it's only 2wd, so no multi mode trans. I don't want to sell my rig for 4x4 limited, I think the locker will be plenty to get me in and out of dirt and sand, I'm not trying to get stuck, just want a bit more confidence in the dunes or trails
Parking brakes should always work unless something is wrong with a component like the bell crank being frozen with rust. This video of us doing a rear brake service should give you some insight on how things should work and how to get a properly adjusted parking brake: th-cam.com/video/IJkVEBYSecs/w-d-xo.html
Hi Timmy, I'm getting ready to put in an oem elocker from a '99. My '98 doesn't have the ECU or wiring. Hence, I bought the wiring harness from Dark Illusions. Really nice guy and a solid harness. It only has 2 plugs (actuator and lock position sensor). I digress. I'm trying to figure out how to test the actuator before I begin installation. Since my wiring doesn't include the ECU, do you know which pins on the actuator plug that i need to attach power/ground to so i can ensure it will function properly? THANKS!
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Timmy! found the answer if anyone else encounters this problem. there are 5 pins on the actuator plug. well, actually 6 but one is blank. the two pins in the same row as the blank are for power. attach a 12v supply to those two pins. if it doesn't immediately turn, remove the leads and switch them. try again. that should return it to it's original state when you removed it from the differential. don't keep power on the pins after it turns just to protect the gears from locking up.
When you swap out the entire rear axle and 3rd member, it's pretty much plug and play, other than the wiring, if you build your own harness like we did in this video. If you get just the e-locker and you want to fit it into your non-elocker rear axle, you will have to alter the axle housing to make it fit.
NO, it does not because the 01/02’ speedometer doesn’t not have this icon/light included. So you would have to source a 99/2000 speedometer to source the RR DIFF button graphic/light. the e-locker wasnt available on the 2001 and 2002 models. If you do the job, please get back to us and let us know what you needed up doing.
Timmy The Toolman definitely will get back with you. The cluster looks the same but I’m going to have to look closely if they have which I think it doesn’t since what you stated is correct. I would have to look for a 99-00 limited that all came with e-lockers
So if you remove the 01/02 speedometer cluster & shine a light behind it without the bulbs installed, you’ll see this cluster doesn’t even have an icon/graphic for the RR diff lock so the best/easiest thing to do is just to illuminate the switch light like we show you & call it a day.
tim, what's the easiest (install wise) locker/LS for a 7.5 rear end? no serious off road and something DD friendly. i have a 2003 taco prerunner with 6 lug, 10 bolt housing, 7.5 gear with 27 spline and 4.56 ratio, code on door jam sticker is BO4A. thank you for any help or recommendations.
For your needs, a limited slip would be fine. You could use a company like East Coast Gear Supply to do the install for you whether you send them your 3rd member or you buy one from them. Either way though, you'd be sending them your 3rd member at some point because they will charge a core charge. If you don't want your vehicle to be down a long time, buying one from them and then sending yours back would be the way to go. Other options like an ARB air locker are more involved because it involves installing an air compressor and running the air line to the locker. There are also self-locking types of rear ends but those have weird driving characteristics and you'll feel the locker sometimes briefly engage on turns even when on the pavement. We have a video for pulling the 3rd member. My buddy Jordan got a True Trac locker installed by this guy who goes by the name "Zuk". He does a great job rebuilding 3rd members so he's another option for you to get the work done. Here's a link to that video: th-cam.com/video/ZMTbgY1xQKk/w-d-xo.html Check out the video description for a link to Zuk's website.
@@TimmyTheToolman tim, thanks for the recommendation! i called ECGS, very helpful... options, options. options, LOL! watched the 3rd member vid, thanks for paying it forward... 2 thumbs up!
When I first heard about this mod, I thought it would be pretty difficult but it's actually fairly straightforward if you have all the needed parts. Good luck searching for an e-locker rear end.
The locker needs to communicate with the e-locker ECU if you want it to perform like OEM with the locker light illuminated on the dash letting you know when you're locked and unlocked. If you simply just set up a simple switch (power/no power), I suppose that could work but you wouldn't get an indicator when you're locked and unlocked.
How does this work with ABS? In the manual, if you had factory E-locker, it says that when e-locker is enabled, ABS light will come on and will be disabled. Is that happening after this retro? Doesn't happen on mine.
Yes, it does work with ABS. On my 98 rig with a factory installed e-locker, my ABS light does not come on when I engage the locker so what you're saying is news to me. When we were testing out the locker after the install, the ABS light did not come on either. I also helped out another friend with this swap and he has ABS as well. If I were you, I wouldn't worry about this. ABS function is only important when you're traveling at faster speeds. When you're using your locker, you're crawling and who cares if the ABS is functioning or not.
@@TimmyTheToolman The reason I am asking is because my ABS is doing some weird crap. Light sometimes is ON and ABS doesn't work and sometimes light is OFF and abs tries to work but gives weird pedal feel and buzz right at 10mph hash mark. I pulled the codes and it is 21, 22, 23, which are solenoids.
@@alexm8543 Gotcha. I've never tried to diagnose an ABS problem so I don't think I'd be much help to you. What are the full CEL code numbers? With a Google search, what are the possible fixes to the codes?
@@TimmyTheToolman codes are below. I haven't seen anything online as to how to fix. Dealership said to replace the ABS pump but said that it may not be worth it because of the fact that the new part (even my cost) is around 6 bills. 21 - OPEN OR SHORT IN 3-WAY SOLENOID FOR RIGHT FRONT WHEEL OR DEFECTIVE ABS ACTUATOR. 22 - OPEN OR SHORT IN 3-WAY SOLENOID FOR LEFT FRONT WHEEL OR DEFECTIVE ABS ACTUATOR. 23 - OPEN OR SHORT IN 3-WAY SOLENOID FOR RIGHT REAR WHEEL OR DEFECTIVE ABS ACTUATOR.
@@alexm8543 Well, here's an idea, find a 3rd Gen at a local wrecking hard and see if you can grab the ABS solenoids off it. A place like PickNPull will charge you next to nothing for them and this way you won't be out much money if replacing the solenoids doesn't fix the issue.
Hey Timmy, New subscriber. I love your videos. What would be the steps to just slide the transmission back in order to replace a flexplate on a 97 4runner? Would I just follow the steps in your transmission replacement and put in longer bell housing bolts that will allow me to prop a jack on the transfer case and slide back instead of taking the entire transmission completely off? Thank you
What you detailed would work. Just follow our video but don't separate the transfer case from the transmission. With those longer bolts, you could essentially sort of keep things in alignment while replacing the flex plate. You still will probably have to fight it a bit to get the alignments pins lined up and the transmission butted up against the engine again. Hopefully you can get the whole assembly slid back far enough to give you enough room to work. If not, you'll have to drop it down and out of your way so you can get the flex plate swapped.
I'd like to engage my e-locker to ensure that it operates before installing. Would I need to wire the complete assembly? Is there a way of grounding and powering the actuator directly at the e-locker plug? Maybe I missed it in the video, but what'd you guys think about switching out the ring and pinion from your original diff to the e-locked diff to match ratios?
I don't know how to bench test an e-locker but there have been people that have, so if you do a search, you'll probably find a forum post or write-up from someone telling you how to do it. Seydzh might know so I'll ask him. Switching out the ring and pinion isn't an easy job and it requires you to be very precise. It's why most people just farm it out to a company like East Coast Gear Supply.
You can follow the instructions in the following forum post. www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/167531-factory-e-locker-troubleshooting-%7C-bigfishallday-quoted.html Regarding switching out the ring and pinion from your original diff, my thought on that is: might as well upgrade the gear ratio from stock 4.10 to 4.88 as stated in the video, instead of stepping down from 4.3 to 4.10. A professional should do it because it takes precision to get the ring and pinion to align properly. You don't want them rubbing unevenly as it will cause chatter and premature wear. A proper ring and pinion setup should last the life of the vehicle.
All you need to do is get a couple test leads with alligator clips and a 6 volt battery (I used the one out of my mojo duck). The solid green and the green with red stripe I believe are the two you are powering. Piece of cake.
I have a non elock 98 limited that had an issue with about 2 feet of melted chassis harness. Can I use a 97 limited elock chassis harness from a junkyard donner (with ECM and elock module)? Planning on converting axel to elock as well in the future (someone beat me to the one at the yard!). Thanks!
@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the super fast reply...wasn't expecting that...especially with your volume and quality of content (48 hour days in CA??). Just plug and play? I could make a jump harness between the elock harness and the non elock axel. Thoughts? Thanks!
@nimgul86ed Well, part of the e-loocker wiring runs up into the body under the driver side back seat, and goes forward to the e-locler ECU and switch. As long as you got all that wiring, you could do it. The engine and transmission harness is separate from the e-locker harness. I'm not 100% sure what wiring on your vehicle burned up.
@TimmyTheToolman I had 2 feet of chassis harness burn under the dash (brown wire...green, so old damage when I got her). But also the full length of drivers side harness right up to the fuel pump plug into the gas tank. Both replacement harnesses are in my shop. Only only have 1 small white male (insert joke here) plug from the existing non elock axel (abs?). New harness has 2 female plug heads (white and black)
Driver's side brown wire was burned the full length...cause of the damage is a mystery still. Btw: previous owner blew an engine, replaced it...then blew that one. We replaced the engine 4 months ago (using your video as a guide). Ran great with some odd electrical issues showing up sporadically. Took the dash out to find the issue...and it became my summer project. Missing your Toyota day because of it. Wanted to say thank you in person for the great video guides!!...next year.
did you notice your ABS light doesn't turn on when locker is engage? I'm not sure why that is but i think it's supposed to disable that. Mine doesn't either :) but it's also a retrofit. I'm wondering if you truly had 4.10 gears since mine is a 99 auto and had 4.3 gears (i took the diff out and counted it.
Hopefully Seydzh will see this comment and chime in. You can tell what gears came on your rig by the sticker on the driver door B-pillar post. But, I can't remember what number you need to look at to determine the gearing.
Timmy The Toolman those numbers aren’t accurate at all. Mine showed 4.10 but I think those are mainly the manual tranny 4runners. You can do the tire spin test to confirm also (I did this first) but didn’t want to grenade my front axle so ended up taking my old axle apart to confirm by counting the ring gear and pinion due to paranoia. You should have him pull the 3rd and count before he swaps the front diff in case he was wrong lol
i was thinking he might have a 4.3 in the front already :). So less work if it already matched. I'm not sure how he determined he had a 4.1. If he used the door code, he may have been misled.
@@TimmyTheToolman My 2010 Toyota Tacoma has a button for “auto LSD” which is part of the traction control. I believe it uses the ABS and the limited slip differential? I was just wondering if when going to the E locker set up does the auto LSD still work when you’re not engaging your locker? I’m kind of new to all this
@@jamesbabineau9767 Ok, now I understand, we're talking about different generation trucks. I don't know how the electronic traction control system would work if you added an e-locker to it. Maybe check out a forum and see what some guys say.
Sorry for the late reply. Send me an email so I can send you a couple pics from my 2000 4runner wire diagram book that might help you figure this out. mtbtim@sbcglobal.net
I have a question that I can’t find an answer to online thought maybe you can shine some light. I have a 98 base model 2.7l 4Runner and was wondering if I could put a rear locking diff upgrade on it? I’ve searched forums and can’t get any real answers. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Yes you could. You would just have to get all the necessary parts to make it happen. 1) E-locker 3rd Member 2) E-locker Axle Housing or you have to alter your non-elocker housing 3) E-locker ECU 4) E-locker Swirch 5) Wiring harness that you bought or made up yourself. The E-locker doesn't communicate with the main vehicle ECU so it's not a situation that it won't work for your base model because it wasn't potentially an option for your model. The e-locker has it's own separate ECU it operates from, so as long as you get all the necessary parts and wire it up like we show in the video, it will work.
Hey Tim, did Seydzh paint his rear axle? If so what paint did he use, did he use por15 or some sort? I’m doing the same exact project but I wanted to clean and paint my axle before the swap. Thanks for the great vid.
I know a locker is a good thing to have but is it worth it for me if i do light trails with a few dirt hills? I dont wanna chuck too much money into my car since its a 2wd 3rd gen 4runner. (Wanna get a 4x4 someday)
Hey Timmy. Great video😎👍. I have a question... Can you make a video about steering adjustment on the front wheels, when you change steering ball joint🤔??
Get the wheels pointing straight ahead first. I'd then pull the steering wheel to see which way you need to correct to straighten the steering wheel and have the clock spring centered. When the clock spring is centered, you can turn it 2.5 times in each direction. Put the steering wheel back on as close to a centered position as possible. If it still isn't perfect, you can make an adjustment at the rag joint. The rag joint is the joint joining the steering shaft and steering rack. Here's the two related videos that can help you out: Steering Rack Replacement - we show how to make adjustments to the steering wheel near the end of the video: th-cam.com/video/wZoRP5ogrK0/w-d-xo.html Here's the Steering Wheel Replacement Video: th-cam.com/video/-kByS-4puf0/w-d-xo.html
So I just got around to doing this retrofit. Just wanted to point out that on my '98, the diff lock lamp pin was the 2nd one on the right hand side of the connector
*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
*TOOLS USED FOR THIS JOB*
**If you don't see a tool you need listed below, here's a master copy of Timmy's suggested tools:
docs.google.com/document/d/1TV08fumiXvyrb6yBMPl0gsp7UlcQEa9lHtqFNiZWOVI/edit?usp=sharing
*6 Ton Jack Stands* - (used to support frame of truck and support donor axle housing)
amzn.to/2MM91w6
*3 Ton Jack Stands* - (used to support axle housing on truck)
amzn.to/2qPYS9O
*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chocks* - (used to keep the front wheels from moving. These are nice chocks that don't slip)
amzn.to/2mttRWp
*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun* - (nice strong gun. used to remove wheel lug nuts and many of the fasteners for this job)
amzn.to/2M2Y9J1
*Dewalt 3/8" Impact Gun* - (used for some of the smaller fasteners for this job)
amzn.to/2uqWnZy
*Dewalt Batteries*
amzn.to/2urcx59
*Dewalt Battery Charger*
amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*Wheel Lug Nut Impact Socket Set* - (nice set for all different size lug nuts)
amzn.to/33uatZt
*1/2" Drive Deep Metric Impact Socket Set*
amzn.to/2WfSTGD
*1/2" Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set*
amzn.to/2pCrdPQ
*3/8" Drive Deep Impact Socket Set*
amzn.to/2ZWjY6C
*3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set*
amzn.to/2KnoYaq
*Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set* - (used a 10mm flare nut wrench to disconnect brake line. This is a very nice set with lots of uses)
amzn.to/32GoIdy
*Vacuum Cap Kit* - (used a 7/32" vacuum caps to put over flared brake line tubing ends to stop brake fluid from leaking out)
amzn.to/31hXY2G
*Straight Needle Nose Pliers* - (used to remove parking brake line clips)
amzn.to/2pQ6yIa
*Plastic Mallet* - (used to knock parking brake line pins out and many of the control arm bolts out)
amzn.to/2CCOqVP
*Brass Hammer* - (used to knock out one of the panhard bolts out)
amzn.to/2QS3Ay7
*20 Piece Screwdriver Set* - (several screwdrivers were used during this job. This is a nice complete set)
amzn.to/34aLrQ1
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set* - (used both these ratchets for this job. These ratchets are super functional and will make your wrenching life easier)
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*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set*
amzn.to/2OehCao
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set*
amzn.to/32WIh0M
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set*
amzn.to/37iQjVt
*1/4” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set*
amzn.to/2QIU7te
*1/4” Drive Regular Extension Set*
amzn.to/2O9nl2x
*Long Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray* - (Good for holding longer tools like ratchets and wrenches)
amzn.to/2m89y0D
*Medium Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray* - (Good Size for keeping track of fasteners/small parts)
amzn.to/2ky8Qt8
*Small Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray* - (Good for holding lug nuts or smaller fasteners/parts)
amzn.to/2m6kQ5y
*Small Pick Tool Set* - (used a pic tool to help release the extended breather hose on the top of the differential)
amzn.to/2MyN4AH
*Long Set of Ratcheting Box End Wrenches* - (used these several times in the video. These are great when you need extra leverage)
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*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set* - (used a pry bar to force the shock off the lower shock mount. This is a nice complete set)
amzn.to/2Ob8THw
*Mission Automotive Silicone Paste* - (used some paste to lubricate the lower shock mount post to have an easier time getting the shock in place)
amzn.to/2NU1En6
*Auto Trim Removal Set* - (used this set to remove interior trim pieces so we could run the wiring)
amzn.to/37vgzvH
*CDI 1/2" Drive 30-250 Foot Pound Torque Wrench* - (used this one to torque the lug nuts and larger fasteners for this job)
amzn.to/2UPhyjK
*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench* - (used this one for the small to medium fasteners for this job)
amzn.to/2U2vUA4
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My differential lock stopped working In my 2nd Gen. Tacoma about 3 years ago I bought a factory new motor for the lock As instructed by a mechanic shop nearby. It still does not work. When I push the switch The locking diff light comes on But just keeps blinking and does not lock in.
Any advice on how to fix this?
@@rtharmon454 Have you tried driving slow and turning the wheels back and forth a bit to get the locker to engage? Sometimes they can get a bit stuck after they've haven't been engaged for a long period.
Hey Timmy! Would it be possible for you to mail me a copy of the wiring schematics for the Elocker mod please?
@@jrmurphy3788 Click on "Show More" to expand out the video description and we provide a link to the wiring schematic there.
@@TimmyTheToolman I did and that's how I was able to build my harness however it does not show the color scamatic for the short harness that goes to the locker I need to figure out which wires go through the 8 pin plug so I can repair it
I have to thank you, Tim. I swapped my rear end in a little under 3 hours yesterday and it wouldn’t have gone as smoothly without this video. I wired it up this morning and when I hit the button, everything worked like it should. I am beyond grateful for the amount of head pounding and swearing you saved me. Thanks again!
You're very welcome and great to hear the swap went smooth for you. Welcome to the e-locker club. We appreciate you taking the time to comment to share your success story with us. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman it feels good to look over and see the warm glow of that button. Now with all this fresh snow in the Sierra, it may be a good time to go give it a proper test! Keep up the killer content.
@@Aged10Years Yeah, go have fun playing in the snow.
Just got my 98 all done thanks to you man. Went from a death wobbly leaky mess to what everyone tells me is a seemingly brand new vehicle. (I spent a lot of time on the interior cleaning, and paint correction). Did all the suspension bushings, as well as steering rack, Valve cover seals, rear cam seals, and oil cooler seal. Timing belt, water pump
Now that my rig is finally a reliable, awesome daily driver, and all purpose 4x4. I’m gonna thinking about adding an e locker soon. The truck definitely needs axel seals anyway so in the not so far off future when I wanna add 33s and a small lift to my rig I will revisit this video and study it carefully to do this swap. For now I’m just gonna enjoy it in it’s near stock form. Gonna make the best of it even with an open diff.
Other future planned mods are: tundra brakes, a front Spartan locker and manual locking hubs. I think it would be so cool to run dual lockers on it but I also want the ability to disconnect the front axel from the hubs if I’m going to do that.
But for now I’m done spending money on it. Only money I want to spend on it is gas! Love my white 98 SR5. Best vehicle I’ve ever driven.
Great to hear our videos have assisted you with your rig. Good luck with the e-locker mod, TBU, manual hubs, and whatever other sic mods you've got planned for you rig. Happy Wrenching Bro!
@@TimmyTheToolman I been watching this video on and off studying it for the last few years finally got my Match 4:30 e locker front and rear axles few weeks ago and cleaning it and preping it for the install in the next few months for my wifes Rig .. Was hoping low range still had the harness to make life faster since my wife uses hers as a daily but very straight forward on the Wiring very detailed video so exited... would be sick of you could install these e locker axles on the 4th gens as well.. Sic Mods For life
About to install the e locker axle thays been sitting in my shed for over a year now. This video was a huge help and made the task seem much more manageable. Thank you!
You're welcome. Hope the job goes smoothly for you. Happy Wrenching!
Hey Tim just wanted to reach out and extend my thanks to you and all of the guys for the videos. I recently just swapped out my entire trans and driveline on my 2001 Limited and put in the E locker. I appreciate all of the details and time you guys take. You are my go to for maintenance!
I was able to find an E locker ECU for a song recently so the wiring tutroial is awesome. Thank you Sage for the demonstration.
Great to know our videos have helped you out. You're very welcome. I doubt Seydzh (it's Russian) will see your comment, but I know he'd appreciate it if he did.
For the axle, I jus rested it on the 3 ton jack and strapped it to the jack so it couldn’t pivot or move. Then disconnected everything. Then just rolled her out nicely without worry. Did the same to get the new one in. No strap makes it complicated like you said since the diff is very heavy and wants to pivot down. Hope this tip helps someone if they attempt alone like I did. I don’t have those strong legs lol
Yeah, ratchet straps would have been a good idea, especially for the the jack under the 3rd member. The jack on either end were very stable but the one under the 3rd member wasn't a very stable support area due to the shape of the 3rd member.
I once pulled my back "kickin ass!" Another great video.
@@robbiesharp311 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
Two things; the beavis and butthead laugh and the honesty of the chaos and surprise you had, bravo
Glad you like the video Mike. Thanks for the comment.
I have a 5th gen but still watch the videos. Great channel.
Thanks Hashim, glad you like our channel. We have a couple videos for 5th Gens and we'll have more as time goes on. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Wow! Awesome video, I am headed to pick and pull tomorrow and might come home with a rear locker for my 98 limited. Wife will not be happy but like you said really straight forward. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks John and you're welcome. Hope you score a locker for your rig. People are usually pretty quick to scoop these up but there is treasure to be found at these PicknPulls. Happy Hunting!
Thank you, Timmy. I got a locker from a buddy of yours recently. Gentleman owns the red 4runner that makes appearances in your vids. I look forward to following your tutorials for my install. Cheers!
You must have bought it from Wei. Good luck with the install.
just got a nice clean 3rd gen and this is definitely on my to do list. thank you for making such a detailed guide, it really makes the job look doable.
Welcome to the club and have fun working on it. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
my boy Seydzh !
Very well researched and prepared. Great video and knowledge .
Thanks brother, waiting for you to pick up a 3rd gen of your own so we can wrench, I guess moving to Sacramento is a prerequisite though.
one of these days....
hopefully by then prices drop and i can get a runner with an e-locker already equipped for a decent price.
Put the axle in months ago. Been procrastinating doing the wiring , but this gives me some motivation to knock it out.
Yeah, with the wiring diagram and Seydzh's explanation how to do it, you should be able to do it no problem.
Great video! Really helped me do my swap with ease. I do want to point something out, I have a 97 and the pin used for the diff locker light on the cluster is different on I assume 96 to 98. Instead of being the fifth one from the left, it is the second one from the next row after the split on the brown connector.
We're glad the video helped you out. Thanks for pointing out the difference for the dash locker light on your 97. Obviously there's some differences between the years for the wiring for the dash lights.
Yianni i have the same issue here. 97 SR5 the 5th pin is used by a green/red stripe wire. slot is empty on the brown plug. ...Can you confirm the diff lock illuminated using the second after the split ?
Terry Giovanakis most definitely. It worked for me.
@@yiannit93 Thank you and.. Καλό Πάσχα!
Wiring up my 98 right now. Glad to have found this comment!
This is my next mod and I am so glad you made this video.
Well Blake, we aim to please. Hope the job goes smooth for you. Get a friend to help. That rear end is heavy.
Sweet, just what I needed to start my install. Thanks guys love this channel :)
Glad our video came at a good time for you. Good luck with the job and let us know how it goes for you. We're stoked you think so highly of our channel.
Kept thinking to myself. Fellas don’t disconnect the driveshaft just yet. Save it for last so you could keep using the floor jack for the shocks and uca’s and avoid front pinion pivot. Glad no one got hurt. Great install nonetheless!
So you think the driveshaft disconnect should be the last step? I'll buy that. You'd just need to get a jack stand under the 3rd member in preparation for it to pivot once the driveshaft and 3rd member separation happens.
Most definitely with the Taco and FJ work I’ve done it’s the safest. Once all has been disconnected. Drop the floor jack all the way down with the axle. Then while one guy holds the axle which now sits about 3” off the ground the other can disconnect the driveshaft. The yoke allows it to drop almost all the way down to the floor.
Cool. Thanks for sharing this.
Appreciate the information timmy I purchased a 2000 Toyota 4runner Limited 4x4 Monday and want to swap the rear axle with a e locker mine is the sane color as the the one your next to all the info helps @5:55 @Timmy The ToolMan
Good luck with the job when you get around to doing it.
@@TimmyTheToolman appreciate that bro just gotta find a Front and rear diff with 4:30 gears and the e locker my truck I just bought was already lifted with rock slider and tons of goodies even had a rear view mirror that has a compass and outside temp looks like mirror came from a 2005 Ford f350 heated mirrors and some other nice goodies blisten shocks with adjustable dampeners
Nice work on this job
Thanks Antonio.
Grinding out the housing isn't to bad at all to do if all you can find is a e locker 3rd member me and friends have done it many times to install them in 1st gen runners and trucks. Just buy an e locker 3rd gasket and trace it onto housing and get to cutting, of course test fit the third along the way also.
We usually use long bolts in place of the studs you have to add.
I also reccomened buying a motor guard to protect it on the trail.
What are you using the cut with?
Timmy The Toolman We've used many things lol. Plasma cutter, skinny wheel on both electric and air grinder. Of course starting slow and checking fitment as you go along. Usually doing the final fitting with like a carbide bit on a die grinder, file etc.
Gotcha. It seems in our area we get enough 3rd Gens popping up in the PickNPulls and if you get there quick enough, you can get the whole enchilada and not have to do any alteration to the housing. After doing this job it got me thinking that I might do the swap on my 2000 4runner.
Timmy The Toolman yeah for 3rd gen owner makes sense. We all run 1-3 gen pickups and 1st and 2nd gen runners with solid axles
Thank you for this video!
I already installed my button in my 99 and it had the wiring already for it - can I use that same wiring? Where would the other end of the wiring go to, I assume the kick panel? I'm wondering since it had that, if it also has the wiring for the brown block plug on cluster too, will just have to see on that one.
This is a great video. Love it I got my diff e locker for my 96 and all I need to do now it’s do the Wiring thank you.
We're glad you like the video Bruno. Good luck with the wiring and the rest of the job. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
41:03 I need those soldering skills!
Get a soldering gun and practice. You can do anything you put your mind to.
@@TimmyTheToolman that's exactly right. I went out and bought some flux and re-watched the ChrisFix soldering video. I have a wire repair to do!
@@firecharger Ok, Happy Soldering!
Hey thanks for all the videos! Very helpful. I have a 99 w/ 2-4 select switch. The wiring diagram says without this option. What will i have to do differently?
Any reason that you could not use just one power source for the ECU and switch? I know that the original factory wiring uses separate power sources, but I thought about just combining them to a single source. Thanks!
Don't know. We followed the wiring diagram linked in the video description exactly.
Timmy The Toolman probably be the choice. Will do the same. Thanks!
@@danthemanx07 Good luck with the job. Hope it goes smooth for you.
I like it!!. Nice job. You explain every step very well!!.
We're glad you like it. Thanks for taking the time to comment and let us know.
You're welcome!!. You guys deserve it !!. I know you put a lot effort to make the videos. Awesome quality videos!!
Is there a pdf copy avaliable for the wiring diagram @31:57 @Timmy The Toolman
It's in the video description Antonio.
Thank you for this helpful video. I am trying to establish if I have a limited slip differential on a Toyota Land Cruiser. When I jacked it up and turned the right rear wheel in either direction the opposite wheel does not move and the same when I turned the left rear wheel in either direction. Does this mean I have a fault in the limited slip differential ? Could you please advise, thank you.
Hey Andrew, I"m not an expert with these differentials. With my experience, when you spin one wheel, the other should turn as well. Maybe look up more videos on the subject and see what you find out.
I recently swapped my 95 Tacoma axle for a 2000 Tacoma axle with an e locker. It all bolted up perfectly. I noticed when looking at the wiring diagram for the 2000 Tacoma e locker, that the green and orange wire is supposed to go to the speedometer.
You’re saying that if I ground that wire it will disable the 5 mile an hour limit, and if you don’t ground the wire it will keep the restriction of 5 miles an hour.
My question is, wouldn’t you need to connect the green and orange wire to the speedometer to stop the the e locker from engaging over 5 miles an hour? My thought process on this is that the ECU doesn’t know how fast you’re going without that wire connected to the speedometer?
Everything you have shown on this video was very helpful but I really want to have the 5 mile an hour safety feature and know it’s going to work.
This is a good question. The wiring diagram we used doesn't show how you should connect the those wires if you want the safety feature that you can only use the locker when you're in 4Lo and you can only use engage it when you're going 5 mph or less. I don't know if you can just choose not to ground those wires and the e-locker will work just like it came from the factory. I looked for wiring schematics in my manuals but I couldn't find anything showing where the #10 pin and #8 pin on that female plug route to.
I don't have time to do it tonight but maybe I can take a look at my 98 and see if I can trace where that #8 and #10 pin wires go.
@@TimmyTheToolman "Pin 10 on the 4WD ECU, G-O wire connects to pin 3 at connector A on the gauge cluster for the speedometer," for a 1999 Tacoma. This is what a guy said on the Tacoma World forum. He had a wiring diagram, I downloaded, that showed this install. Unfortunately, my 1995 Tacoma doesn't have this option.
@@TheHBHikerBoyScout Well, worst case scenario is you have to ground out those safety features. If you're the only one that drives the rig, it's not a big deal. If somebody else drives your rig, maybe just tell them not to push this EVER, or put a piece of tape over it saying, "Do Not Push". It's not really something you would accidentally push so somebody would have to purposely do it. I know it's not the solution that you wanted but it will work.
I have a 99 limited with the multi mode all wheel drive feature. Can I complete the elocker swap in the same way you guys did in this vid?
Yes you can. As long as you have the e-locker ECU and wire it up properly, it will work for your 99.
Thanks guys for showing us at home how to properly perform this job. My question for you is... is it worth it to put this setup in an 02 4runner with vsc and atrac. What are the ups and downs of doing such a thing. Again guys thanks for the knowledge and taking the time to film this. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars swapping out my front struts in my daily driver with the videos you produced.
I definitely think it's worth doing in an 02. A locker will definitely help you while off-roading regardless of the VSC and ATRAC. The ups are better off-road performance. It could help you get yourself out of a situation you would normally need to be pulled or winched out of. The downs are the time and money you have to invest in doing this mod. Great to hear you are making good use of our videos and saving yourself lots of money. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the info, now my hardest job is to find one that's not rusted to flakes for a reasonable price. Can you do a video in the future on how to bypass the vsc/atrac system I don't think it would be as easy as pulling a fuse haha. Thanks again guys.
@@jreg0028 This is something we don't have experience with but it would be cool to figure it out. No promises but I'll do some research on it.
Hey Tim! Are there any other components, such as bushings, seals etc. that should be changed if getting an elocker from a donor vehicle?
@isaacsumera3795 It could be the time to do the axle bearings, seals, and associated parts.
Big job- great video brother Tim!!
Thanks Brother Jake.
I have a limited 4runner 97 and it comes from the factory with differential lock
The rear differential locker was an option you could purchase when buying a 3rd Gen 4runner. It didn't come on all 97 4runners. This video is for those people who weren't lucky enough to buy a used 3rd Gen 4runner that already had a locker on it.
48:50 For getting the "RR Diff Lock" on the dash to light up, my '98 SR5 required the wire to go into pin #8. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks for sharing.
Very informative. Love this channel.
Glad you found it informative. Thanks for the comment.
Hey Tim. Thanks for yet another very helpful video. I wanted to chime in here incase anyone ran into the same situation that I did - for lighting the RR DIFF LOCK light on the cluster, I had to use pin 8, instead of pin 5 as you demonstrated in the video. My pin 5 went to the ECT PWR light. I have a 98 SR5 4WD 4R.
Any idea why the ABS light does not come on when you lock the diff? In 4runners with a rear locker from the factory, the ABS light will always come on with the diff lock.
correct me if im wrong
so there is 2 plugs that conccet to the diff (6pin which have 5 wires, and the other 2 pins) and then they all join to be one plug at the end which have 8 pins ?
i have axle from 2008 fj cruiser and have same plugs so if i buy the rear wiring harrness in the daigram and flow the steps i should be fine right? and since this is sperate system im guessing any 4wd ecu should would work with it just fine
It sounds like it would work but we can't guarantee it will. Will an ECU meant to communicate with an e-locker from a 3rd Gen 4runner effectively communicate with an e-locker from an FJ Cruiser? We don't know until someone like you gives it a try. Obviously I would bench test it before going through the pains of installing it on your rig.
13:39 Beavis and Butthead hanging out with Timmy the Toolman
You know it!
Did u need to add a bulb to the cluster for the locker indicator light?
No, we didn't need to add a bulb. It was already there from the factory.
I noticed you said to use a first gen tacoma e locker, you would need to weld spring perches and stuff to the axle.. are the third members not interchangeable?
The 3rd members are the same for the 3rd Gen 4runner and 1st Gen Tacoma. The axle housings are different because one uses leaf springs and the other coil springs.
After perusing a lot of info on this subject I was ready to put in an e-locked axle I have on a parts truck. Apparently it ain't so simple! You're saying I would need the matching front axle as well for correct operation?
Virtually no one mentions strictly sand 4x4ing, which is all I'll ever do, aside from maybe occasional snow/ice in my community/city.
In your opinion is this mod "worth it" for 99% street use, maybe 10hrs of beach/sand use, and even less experiences in snow?
Thanks Timmy
It won't be worth it to you. Just get some traction boards and carry a shovel and that will get you out of most sand situations. I bought the MaxTrax boards because of their quality and reputation. I think they were the original makers of these boards and then others have copied them. But, the cheaper versions aren't as good from what I've heard. The MaxTrax are durable and flex well without breaking. Here's a link. They come in different colors. I have the olive colored ones. amzn.to/31oqjad
This video has been so helpful as I’ve been taking on my locker swap project! I just completed the wiring today and my locker is functioning which I’m super happy about!
I do have a couple things going on that I’d like to ask about if you have time. Not sure if these are correct indications or maybe I made some bad connections.
1. My switch is constantly lit up whether it’s on or off? I was expecting it to only light up when pressed in.
2. I’m having to fill both spots in the add a circuit with fuses for everything to work properly. If I only run one fuse then my gauge cluster and power windows do not function. Looks like you only have one fused plugged into the add a circuit in the video?
Hey Tim, this was our only experience with this job. When we were done with the job, the switch would only light up when it was pressed. Yes, we only had to use one add a fuse to get everything working. I'm sorry I couldn't be more help to you.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the quick response! I’ll dig further into the forums and see if I can find anything. Will post back up here if I do.
Anyhow, the the swap is complete and locker is working all thanks to your help! Thanks for taking the time to put these videos together!
Thanks for the thorough video. I’m assembling the parts to do a swap and the video is s tremendous resource.
Q: Will I need the aftermarket sway bar brackets if my ‘99 is and will remain stock ride height?
Also, I’m in San Jose... Tim, would you consider helping me do the install if I compensate you for your time?
Hey John, With a stock height rig, you shouldn't need the Sonoran Steel sway bar lift brackets.
I was helping people with jobs we've already filmed but I found myself getting burnt out on wrenching. The time I put into the TH-cam channel is a lot. With a full-time job, girlfriend, other responsibilities, other interests, I decided to limit my wrenching time to making new videos and keeping my own vehicles mechanically sound. I can do the most good by making new videos that anyone with an internet connection can find and benefit from. When I help out just one person, that's great and all, and I've made some new friends this way, but I had to draw the line somewhere to maintain my motivation to keep this TH-cam channel going with Sean.
So, sorry John, I'm going to have to turn you down on helping you with this job. I'm sure you can find one buddy or family member that can help you out. If you take your time and follow our video, you'll get it done no problem. Good luck!
Timmy The Toolman I completely understand. The video is already invaluable help! Thanks for the quick response!
Have been searching web for hours. No luck. Going long travel with links on my 1st gen Tacoma. Wondering if the tundra rear axle will work, and work with e locker? If even has one.
This is above our pay grade Justin. We don't know either if a Tundra rear axle will work. I suppose with some alteration, you could make most anything work though. It's just a question of how much fabrication you want to deal with.
The 3rd gen 4runner was sold with a 4.10 gear elocker. Thats how I did mine..
That's interesting Ben. I thought the e-locker 3rd members were all set up with 4.30 gearing. Update - Sean told me Tacoma e-lockers did come with 4.10 gearing.
Can't wait to see it.. holding out as long as I can lol
Hi @Timmy The Toolman, I have a 2002 4Runner with the center diff lock and recently installed a new third member with a harrop elocker. My third member only has 2 wires coming out of it for the locker and i'm wondering if you have heard of a way to wire an aftermarket locker like its stock in order to retain the 5MPH safety feature? Any thoughts are appreciated and thanks for making awesome videos to help with wrenching!
I don't have an answer for your question Ben. This is something we haven't tried. I would just make your locker switch hard to accidentally switch on, basically like the OEM switch. The OEM switch is a push button and the button doesn't extend out past the dash, so it's hard to accidentally actuate it.
Hello Tim, your video was very helpful as I did the exact swap in my 1998 4Runner, I am struggling a bit with the sway bar hitting the e-locker motor and I was wondering what you did so it would clear? Toyota sells another sway bar that has different bends to clear the motor but I was wondering if you had some trick to make the original sway bar work?
Thank you
Sonoran Steel sells a lift bracket for the rear sway bar. He sells them with his lift kits but he would probably sell it separately too I think. The lift brackets will move the sway bar up and away from the e-locker motor.
I did the on my 2000 3rd gen but instead of dealing with the wiring I bought a wiring kit that’s plug and play from low range offroad
Christopher Galvan Hey Chris, we actually mention this option in the video and in the video description. But yeah, you're absolutely right that the pre-made harness that Low Range Offroad sells is an option. It's just going to require you to part with more money and that might be a big deal for some folks. A friend of mine picked up a front differential, entire elocker rearend, ecu and all the necessary wiring for $200 from a PickNPull. That wiring harness alone is almost as expensive as all that.
Timmy The Toolman I got mine from picknpull also for $171 + taxes. Axle,ecu,oem button. I did a stud eliminator and prepped the axle and painted it like this fella. Also put in new oil seals. I got some 18/7 sprinkler wire to do my wiring harness. The wire isn’t ideal since it’s solid and not stranded but it’s held up for a year now.
Yeah, when my buddy Wei said he picked up the whole enchilada for $200, I started thinking I might try to find one for my 2000 3rd Gen and do the swap as well.
Christopher Galvan does this include the ecu? Or is it not needed with the kit? Just sourced a 4.10 complete e locker axle but I don’t have any wiring yet
Hello,
Wondering on the harness link in the description. Do I choose low pinion locker or the FJ description. Second thing when you order it, is the button for rear locker be the factory one or some new one? Thanks
We don't know much about the harness you can buy other than that they are available. You might want to call the company and ask them.
I have a question. I have a 1997 limited 4x4 4runner with a factory E-locker. I want to swap the push button transfer case with a j shifter one (I plan on doing manual hubs as well). But to engage the E locker you need to shift into 4 low. If I swap in a j shifter for a fully manual 4x4 system, will the E-locker no longer engage because there is no signal that it’s in 4 low?
Good question, not sure if those different t-cases have different connectors. If they do, look up the “blue wire mod” where you can ground the blue wire (blue/red stripe) to allow your e-locker to work in 2 or 4 hi or low.
Hey Tim I appreciate the video and information. I installed an elocker in my 1996 4runner. Hooked everything up and I can hear the locker working. I don't however see the indicator on the dash. I added the additional wire to the harness and it appears the dash bulb works. Any suggestions? Thank you
Don't know. If you got that repair wire terminal into the right plug on the dash cluster and into the right spot in the plug, it should work if you wired everything correctly.
Hey Bud, I had to add a bulb to the back of my dash cluster..the slot for the RR diff lock build was empty!👍 hope this helps!
@@tannersmith5946 Hey Tanner, so did you put the wire in the same slot as i did? Pin 5 on the brown connector? Cause I'm installing it on my buddies truck and nothing lit up.
Hey I did this :) made my own wiring harness
Well, good job getten er dun Rob. I knew you were bonafide.
I am going the same route as Sage, I have both front and rear diff from a ‘00 w ecu and wiring. However, I want to put it on my 01’ with CDL and I was wondering if I have to do anything different because of the CDL
The center diff lock is a totally separate system from the rear locker. It should work fine.
@@TimmyTheToolmanthank you for the response! Also sense it’ll be going from 4.10 to 4.30 is the drive shaft let her the same?
@@huerta32 The driveshafts are the same. The gear ratio has nothing to do with driveshaft length.
Are you going to make a separate video on the front diff swap? Great channel by the way
We already made a video of swapping a front differential last year. The link to the video is in the video description. Make sure to read the video description for the front diff swap and also read the pinned comment from me. After the job, we learned a much easier way to get the diff out and back in.
Yup, unbolting the engine mount on the drivers side and raising the engine an 1" or 1 1/2" will make getting the front diff way easier.
great video, id like to do this on my 1st gen taco
Good luck with the job once you get all the parts.
Going to look at a 4runner with a locker, and I want to test to make sure the locker works. I doubt it has the 2hi wire mod, and I'm wondering if listening for the 'chirp' of the tires will still be evident in 4lo. Any other suggestions on testing or do you think the rear chirp will still be obvious?
The chirp should be obvious. Have the windows down and go Slow on the turns.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks!
@@kaimasterson8512 You're welcome.
Always awesome videos. Great job.
Thanks My Brother. Sean and I appreciate it.
Hey Tim, I can’t seem to get the wire to fit and stay in the fuse tap. Is there a specific way to get the wire to stay in the fuse tap?
You can connect the wire to the fuse tap with a butt connector or you can solder it and cover the connection with shrink tubing.
I picked up an E-locker full axle to replace the axle in a 2WD '99 runner. Do you know if the factory E-locker control module will work with a 2WD truck?
It should. The E-locker ECU is separate from the main vehicle ECU. As long as you wire it up correctly, it should work.
Hey Timmy thanks so much for the help . I have my harness just about finished except for the end that plugs to the diff. The male end that plugs to the end coming into the car do you happen to have the wire color code for that male end? Mine is messed up and I'll like to repair it
That wire schematic we share a link to in the video description does show the wiring colors.
First gen Tacomas did not have 4.11, they had 4.10.
You're correct, close enough nonetheless! Thanks for watching.
Needs to be the same gear ratio front and rear unless the owner never drives in 4wd in high speeds. I.e. dedicated rock crawler
You know for a fact all of them came with a 4.10 stock from factory? Because I'm having problems with my 98 3.4 4x4 I suspect the rear differential does npt match up with the front differential .
jose mora not all, some are 4.30 and 4.56
thanks guys now work 4runner
You're welcome.
excellent video enjoyed it. I want to ask a stupid question. what is the purpose of an electronic rear diff locker. Why not just a solid locker? I have a 2004 tacoma trd with electronic locker and always wondered why they say don't go over 5 miles a hour. Im gonna assume its with solid locker characteristics.
Glad you like the video. With a locker both wheels turn at the same speed. Under normal driving conditions, you need the wheels to be able to move at different speeds when you are going around a turn. The outside wheel needs to travel further than the inside wheel and that's what a normal differential allows your wheels to do. When you engage a locker, now your wheels can't spin at different speeds. They turn one for one with each other. The reason for the locker is to give you more traction. With a open differential, if a wheel is off the ground or losing traction, that's the wheel that will receive the power. Once you engage the locker, the wheel on the ground with traction will also get power and you can hopefully keep moving and get yourself unstuck. The locker isn't meant for high speed use. It's only for when you're in a tricky situation and you require more traction. If you drove with the locker at speed and ended up turning a corner, you'd destroy the differential and most likely your axles as well. That's the reason for the 5mph safety built into the system.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the quick response. I had a locker in my jeep cj years back and I thought they had clutch packs or something to compensate on a turn.then locks back in when straightened out. like a Detroit locker.
@@scotthubbard973 Oh, now I know what you're talking about, that's what they call a lunch box locker. It's self actuating. Those are ok but lots of people don't care for them because they can act kind of funny on the road and sometimes your wheels chirp because they lock up a little on a turn. I have one the front of my 85 4runner.
@@TimmyTheToolman yes sorry I wasn't very clear that is actually what I meant. Why didn't they put in a locker like a Detroit locker and always have posi than put in one that you activate. just watched your install video of a super charger on 3.4 liter which I have been very interested in doing on mine. in your opinion, would you recommend any other additions with the super charger? after looking at forums other additions such as URD upgrade and 7th injector are recommended. Have there been any issues with the addition so far? just thinking about factory specs and emissions and any weak links in the drivetrain. thanks
@@scotthubbard973 The supercharger has worked well for Sean but he does get some pinging. He is going to do the 7th injector and tuner mod soon and of course we will film it.
great video! im at the wiring stage now, is the wiring diagram the same for a 5-speed ?
I don't think the type of transmission matters. The e-locker ECU does communicate with the transfer case to send the message to enable the differential to lock when the transfer case goes into 4Lo but it doesn't communicate with the transmission as far as I know.
@@TimmyTheToolman makes sense thank you! Also noticed they didn’t show the wiring connecting from the locker side to the trailer wire but showed the trailer wire to ecu. My set up came complete OEM wires all the way to the 2 connections inside the cabin just past the gas tank. Just wondering where to cut to wire to trailer wire
@@DIRTY_ELECTRIC Are you saying you have two other plugs that connect up under the rear seat near the gas tank that's part of the e-locker wiring?
I really want to swap an elocker in my manual transmission 4runner. Wich option do i have since it's super rare to find a 5spd 4runner with e locker in a junk yard? Is an front differential on a automatic can fit on a 5speed 4runner to match the rear 4.3 diff ratio that ?
You can get an e-locker from any 3rd Gen. It doesn't have to come from a 5speed. You just have to make sure that you match the differential gears from and rear. So yes, 4.30 gearing front and rear.
Just out of curiosity...Is there any purpose for disabling he 5mph protection to engage the locker? I understand its optional if you ground it or not but can't think of any benefit
.. anything else than damaging your actuator or even the diff. Am I missing something?
It's so you don't have to absolutely come to a crawl when you want to engage the locker. I personally think this protective feature is good because and I wouldn't defeat it by grounding it out. I think the chances of accidentally hitting the button is pretty minimal but what happens if you let someone drive your rig that's not exactly the sharpest tool in the shed and they engage it at freeway speeds. Very bad things are going to happen.
Great vid on this process.
Thanks Rick. Glad you like the video.
@@TimmyTheToolman Your welcome, I've been watching your vids for about a year. You do a solid job of explaining things. Glad your out there for us 4runner newbies.
GREAT VIDEO GUYS!!! So, my question relates to the ABS wires. On the connector(s) at the fuel tank, where they exit the cabin, there is a white and black connector. The black connector, there are two (2) wires that exit to the exterior and I believe they are ground wires. On the white connector, it contains wires for the e-locker and the ABS sensors.I am using a donor harness and there is one ABS wire that is directed where I didn't expect it to go. Do you have a wire diagram for this connector - or do you know the answer of the top of your head? Thanks
Hey Jay, glad you like the video. I don't know the answer to your wire question. it would take some research to figure it out.
Ok, how bout this. Is there a difference in harness design between auto and manual?
@@jayhyland1 I don't know. I wouldn't think so, but without looking at a wiring schematic, I can't give you a definitive answer.
Question.. Other than being a normal 4 runner option and full control (being able to lock/unlock at will), is there a reason this might be better or worse than a trutrac (torsen diff)? I like the idea of torsen diff and have been looking for what would really be the best choice but I have decided that if I decide on locker that its going to be the factory e-locker. I would appreciate hearing your opinion. Thanks!
Hey Thomas, my buddy Jordan has a trutrac both front and rear on his 3rd Gen and he really likes it. It's not a true locker but it has worked really well for him. So, it's definitely a viable alternative to a full locker.
@@TimmyTheToolman I like the idea that I wouldnt have to turn the locker on/off and that in theory it automatically shifts on the fly. I hear some downsides from some race car enthusiasts that torsen cant handle rough handleing like hitting the gas and this is what I'm trying to consider for offroading where I might abuse the gas peddle through mud pits or something. BTW.. I really appreciate your videos These are amazing for 3rd gen lovers!
Wiring question: If I want to add the safety feature that allows the actuator motor to work only under 5mph, where would I plug the wire from the ECU (pin 10) instead of grounding it?
Not sure. I think the answer is you just don't ground it and that wire goes nowhere but I'm not sure about this.
@@TimmyTheToolman, ok thanks. I'll post on the 3rd gen mafia group and see if anyone knows.
I've met these guys a couple times at eagle lakes trail head.
You're you drink some Russian Vodka with them?
@@TimmyTheToolman no no no, I can't drink vodka to save my life =(. These guys are insane though, taking trails with 4-5ft deep snow!
@@dietsoap3539 Yeah, that does sound insane. I wouldn't try taking a trail with 4-5 feet of snow on it. Crazy Russians!
Hey Tim I installed the locker in the locked position but the switch wasn’t in the locked position and won’t engage the locker. What do I do to reset it?
@@GabrielRodriguez-ko9qg Take the actuator off and use a screwdriver or similar tool to unlock the locker. Once that is done, the switch and locker will be in sync.
Is it possible to change my 2002sr5 2wd auto rear axle to a rear axle with the e locker? It has trac and vsc, and it's only 2wd, so no multi mode trans. I don't want to sell my rig for 4x4 limited, I think the locker will be plenty to get me in and out of dirt and sand, I'm not trying to get stuck, just want a bit more confidence in the dunes or trails
Yes, you could swap an e-locker in your rig.
Have you done a vid on making the parking brake actually work? Thanks 🙂
Parking brakes should always work unless something is wrong with a component like the bell crank being frozen with rust. This video of us doing a rear brake service should give you some insight on how things should work and how to get a properly adjusted parking brake: th-cam.com/video/IJkVEBYSecs/w-d-xo.html
Hi Timmy, I'm getting ready to put in an oem elocker from a '99. My '98 doesn't have the ECU or wiring. Hence, I bought the wiring harness from Dark Illusions. Really nice guy and a solid harness. It only has 2 plugs (actuator and lock position sensor). I digress. I'm trying to figure out how to test the actuator before I begin installation. Since my wiring doesn't include the ECU, do you know which pins on the actuator plug that i need to attach power/ground to so i can ensure it will function properly? THANKS!
We do have this bench test video that might help you out: th-cam.com/video/OhIPf4_B23M/w-d-xo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Timmy! found the answer if anyone else encounters this problem. there are 5 pins on the actuator plug. well, actually 6 but one is blank. the two pins in the same row as the blank are for power. attach a 12v supply to those two pins. if it doesn't immediately turn, remove the leads and switch them. try again. that should return it to it's original state when you removed it from the differential. don't keep power on the pins after it turns just to protect the gears from locking up.
@@cardp17 Glad you found your answer.
I found a rear axle with elocker with the front diff with all wiring out of a junk yard is $2400 reasonable
Seems decent for this market. These things are hard to find these days.
- Sean
Did the driveshaft and the third member mount on perfect any extra parts needed or was it plug and play
When you swap out the entire rear axle and 3rd member, it's pretty much plug and play, other than the wiring, if you build your own harness like we did in this video. If you get just the e-locker and you want to fit it into your non-elocker rear axle, you will have to alter the axle housing to make it fit.
Does the dash indicator light work with a 2001?
NO, it does not because the 01/02’ speedometer doesn’t not have this icon/light included. So you would have to source a 99/2000 speedometer to source the RR DIFF button graphic/light. the e-locker wasnt available on the 2001 and 2002 models. If you do the job, please get back to us and let us know what you needed up doing.
Timmy The Toolman definitely will get back with you. The cluster looks the same but I’m going to have to look closely if they have which I think it doesn’t since what you stated is correct. I would have to look for a 99-00 limited that all came with e-lockers
So if you remove the 01/02 speedometer cluster & shine a light behind it without the bulbs installed, you’ll see this cluster doesn’t even have an icon/graphic for the RR diff lock so the best/easiest thing to do is just to illuminate the switch light like we show you & call it a day.
tim, what's the easiest (install wise) locker/LS for a 7.5 rear end? no serious off road and something DD friendly. i have a 2003 taco prerunner with 6 lug, 10 bolt housing, 7.5 gear with 27 spline and 4.56 ratio, code on door jam sticker is BO4A. thank you for any help or recommendations.
For your needs, a limited slip would be fine. You could use a company like East Coast Gear Supply to do the install for you whether you send them your 3rd member or you buy one from them. Either way though, you'd be sending them your 3rd member at some point because they will charge a core charge. If you don't want your vehicle to be down a long time, buying one from them and then sending yours back would be the way to go. Other options like an ARB air locker are more involved because it involves installing an air compressor and running the air line to the locker. There are also self-locking types of rear ends but those have weird driving characteristics and you'll feel the locker sometimes briefly engage on turns even when on the pavement.
We have a video for pulling the 3rd member. My buddy Jordan got a True Trac locker installed by this guy who goes by the name "Zuk". He does a great job rebuilding 3rd members so he's another option for you to get the work done. Here's a link to that video: th-cam.com/video/ZMTbgY1xQKk/w-d-xo.html Check out the video description for a link to Zuk's website.
@@TimmyTheToolman tim, thanks for the recommendation! i called ECGS, very helpful... options, options. options, LOL! watched the 3rd member vid, thanks for paying it forward... 2 thumbs up!
@@mrmojorisen6336 You're very welcome.
Awesome! Can’t wait to do this mod!
When I first heard about this mod, I thought it would be pretty difficult but it's actually fairly straightforward if you have all the needed parts. Good luck searching for an e-locker rear end.
Could i wire it up to my auxbeam panel rather than doing the button and all the wiring harness?
The locker needs to communicate with the e-locker ECU if you want it to perform like OEM with the locker light illuminated on the dash letting you know when you're locked and unlocked. If you simply just set up a simple switch (power/no power), I suppose that could work but you wouldn't get an indicator when you're locked and unlocked.
How does this work with ABS? In the manual, if you had factory E-locker, it says that when e-locker is enabled, ABS light will come on and will be disabled. Is that happening after this retro? Doesn't happen on mine.
Yes, it does work with ABS. On my 98 rig with a factory installed e-locker, my ABS light does not come on when I engage the locker so what you're saying is news to me. When we were testing out the locker after the install, the ABS light did not come on either. I also helped out another friend with this swap and he has ABS as well. If I were you, I wouldn't worry about this. ABS function is only important when you're traveling at faster speeds. When you're using your locker, you're crawling and who cares if the ABS is functioning or not.
@@TimmyTheToolman The reason I am asking is because my ABS is doing some weird crap. Light sometimes is ON and ABS doesn't work and sometimes light is OFF and abs tries to work but gives weird pedal feel and buzz right at 10mph hash mark. I pulled the codes and it is 21, 22, 23, which are solenoids.
@@alexm8543 Gotcha. I've never tried to diagnose an ABS problem so I don't think I'd be much help to you. What are the full CEL code numbers? With a Google search, what are the possible fixes to the codes?
@@TimmyTheToolman codes are below. I haven't seen anything online as to how to fix. Dealership said to replace the ABS pump but said that it may not be worth it because of the fact that the new part (even my cost) is around 6 bills.
21 - OPEN OR SHORT IN 3-WAY SOLENOID FOR RIGHT FRONT WHEEL OR DEFECTIVE ABS ACTUATOR.
22 - OPEN OR SHORT IN 3-WAY SOLENOID FOR LEFT FRONT WHEEL OR DEFECTIVE ABS ACTUATOR.
23 - OPEN OR SHORT IN 3-WAY SOLENOID FOR RIGHT REAR WHEEL OR DEFECTIVE ABS ACTUATOR.
@@alexm8543 Well, here's an idea, find a 3rd Gen at a local wrecking hard and see if you can grab the ABS solenoids off it. A place like PickNPull will charge you next to nothing for them and this way you won't be out much money if replacing the solenoids doesn't fix the issue.
Hey Timmy, New subscriber. I love your videos. What would be the steps to just slide the transmission back in order to replace a flexplate on a 97 4runner? Would I just follow the steps in your transmission replacement and put in longer bell housing bolts that will allow me to prop a jack on the transfer case and slide back instead of taking the entire transmission completely off? Thank you
What you detailed would work. Just follow our video but don't separate the transfer case from the transmission. With those longer bolts, you could essentially sort of keep things in alignment while replacing the flex plate. You still will probably have to fight it a bit to get the alignments pins lined up and the transmission butted up against the engine again. Hopefully you can get the whole assembly slid back far enough to give you enough room to work. If not, you'll have to drop it down and out of your way so you can get the flex plate swapped.
I'd like to engage my e-locker to ensure that it operates before installing. Would I need to wire the complete assembly? Is there a way of grounding and powering the actuator directly at the e-locker plug? Maybe I missed it in the video, but what'd you guys think about switching out the ring and pinion from your original diff to the e-locked diff to match ratios?
I don't know how to bench test an e-locker but there have been people that have, so if you do a search, you'll probably find a forum post or write-up from someone telling you how to do it. Seydzh might know so I'll ask him.
Switching out the ring and pinion isn't an easy job and it requires you to be very precise. It's why most people just farm it out to a company like East Coast Gear Supply.
You can follow the instructions in the following forum post. www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/167531-factory-e-locker-troubleshooting-%7C-bigfishallday-quoted.html
Regarding switching out the ring and pinion from your original diff, my thought on that is: might as well upgrade the gear ratio from stock 4.10 to 4.88 as stated in the video, instead of stepping down from 4.3 to 4.10. A professional should do it because it takes precision to get the ring and pinion to align properly. You don't want them rubbing unevenly as it will cause chatter and premature wear. A proper ring and pinion setup should last the life of the vehicle.
thanks fellas!
All you need to do is get a couple test leads with alligator clips and a 6 volt battery (I used the one out of my mojo duck). The solid green and the green with red stripe I believe are the two you are powering. Piece of cake.
great vid your stuff is like a new one on the lot around hear lol good stuff
Glad you like the video. California Bay Area rigs are usually in very good shape because there's no salting of the roads to rust everything to hell.
I have a non elock 98 limited that had an issue with about 2 feet of melted chassis harness.
Can I use a 97 limited elock chassis harness from a junkyard donner (with ECM and elock module)?
Planning on converting axel to elock as well in the future (someone beat me to the one at the yard!).
Thanks!
@@nimgul86ed Yes, you could.
@TimmyTheToolman
Thanks for the super fast reply...wasn't expecting that...especially with your volume and quality of content (48 hour days in CA??).
Just plug and play?
I could make a jump harness between the elock harness and the non elock axel.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
@nimgul86ed Well, part of the e-loocker wiring runs up into the body under the driver side back seat, and goes forward to the e-locler ECU and switch. As long as you got all that wiring, you could do it. The engine and transmission harness is separate from the e-locker harness. I'm not 100% sure what wiring on your vehicle burned up.
@TimmyTheToolman
I had 2 feet of chassis harness burn under the dash (brown wire...green, so old damage when I got her).
But also the full length of drivers side harness right up to the fuel pump plug into the gas tank.
Both replacement harnesses are in my shop.
Only only have 1 small white male (insert joke here) plug from the existing non elock axel (abs?).
New harness has 2 female plug heads (white and black)
Driver's side brown wire was burned the full length...cause of the damage is a mystery still.
Btw: previous owner blew an engine, replaced it...then blew that one. We replaced the engine 4 months ago (using your video as a guide). Ran great with some odd electrical issues showing up sporadically. Took the dash out to find the issue...and it became my summer project.
Missing your Toyota day because of it. Wanted to say thank you in person for the great video guides!!...next year.
did you notice your ABS light doesn't turn on when locker is engage? I'm not sure why that is but i think it's supposed to disable that. Mine doesn't either :) but it's also a retrofit. I'm wondering if you truly had 4.10 gears since mine is a 99 auto and had 4.3 gears (i took the diff out and counted it.
Hopefully Seydzh will see this comment and chime in. You can tell what gears came on your rig by the sticker on the driver door B-pillar post. But, I can't remember what number you need to look at to determine the gearing.
Timmy The Toolman those numbers aren’t accurate at all. Mine showed 4.10 but I think those are mainly the manual tranny 4runners. You can do the tire spin test to confirm also (I did this first) but didn’t want to grenade my front axle so ended up taking my old axle apart to confirm by counting the ring gear and pinion due to paranoia. You should have him pull the 3rd and count before he swaps the front diff in case he was wrong lol
He got the front differential from the same vehicle so the gearing matched.
i was thinking he might have a 4.3 in the front already :). So less work if it already matched. I'm not sure how he determined he had a 4.1. If he used the door code, he may have been misled.
It likely turns off the ABS but I'm not sure. I've never had an e locker in a factory vehicle lol.
Can you just switch the gear and pinion from the stock axle to the locked one?
ZAYD HERRERA no, the axle housing needs to be modified to accept the e-locked 3rd member. It’s notched slightly.
I'm sorry if this got mentioned already but I didn't see it in the comments, but can you tell us how much did it cost to buy this from that seller?
I think Seydzh said he got it for around $500.
Do you have any problems with the limited slip differential button or light coming on?
LSD button
Now that you don’t have Different differential
What LSD button are your talking about? There isn't one on these rigs so you must be referring to something else.
@@TimmyTheToolman My 2010 Toyota Tacoma has a button for “auto LSD” which is part of the traction control. I believe it uses the ABS and the limited slip differential? I was just wondering if when going to the E locker set up does the auto LSD still work when you’re not engaging your locker?
I’m kind of new to all this
@@jamesbabineau9767 Ok, now I understand, we're talking about different generation trucks. I don't know how the electronic traction control system would work if you added an e-locker to it. Maybe check out a forum and see what some guys say.
Hey Timmy! Any luck on finding the wire scamatic on the diff pig tail? I can't find anything anywhere I can really use some help here
Sorry for the late reply. Send me an email so I can send you a couple pics from my 2000 4runner wire diagram book that might help you figure this out. mtbtim@sbcglobal.net
@@TimmyTheToolman jr.amurphy@gmail.com
I have a question that I can’t find an answer to online thought maybe you can shine some light. I have a 98 base model 2.7l 4Runner and was wondering if I could put a rear locking diff upgrade on it? I’ve searched forums and can’t get any real answers. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Yes you could. You would just have to get all the necessary parts to make it happen.
1) E-locker 3rd Member
2) E-locker Axle Housing or you have to alter your non-elocker housing
3) E-locker ECU
4) E-locker Swirch
5) Wiring harness that you bought or made up yourself.
The E-locker doesn't communicate with the main vehicle ECU so it's not a situation that it won't work for your base model because it wasn't potentially an option for your model. The e-locker has it's own separate ECU it operates from, so as long as you get all the necessary parts and wire it up like we show in the video, it will work.
Timmy The Toolman thank you sir appreciate the feedback and quick response. Love your vids thank you
Hey Tim, did Seydzh paint his rear axle? If so what paint did he use, did he use por15 or some sort? I’m doing the same exact project but I wanted to clean and paint my axle before the swap. Thanks for the great vid.
I'm pretty sure he did paint it. I'll try to contact him and find out what he used.
Timmy! You wouldn’t happen to be down here in the Valley would you? I heard you mention Camelback Toyota
I live in San Jose California. I mainly use Camelback Toyota for my parts needs.
I know a locker is a good thing to have but is it worth it for me if i do light trails with a few dirt hills? I dont wanna chuck too much money into my car since its a 2wd 3rd gen 4runner. (Wanna get a 4x4 someday)
Don't bother Armando. You don't need one for what you're doing.
Hey Timmy. Great video😎👍. I have a question... Can you make a video about steering adjustment on the front wheels, when you change steering ball joint🤔??
Are you talking about just getting the steering wheel straight again?
Yes Sir😉 🔧🛠️
Get the wheels pointing straight ahead first. I'd then pull the steering wheel to see which way you need to correct to straighten the steering wheel and have the clock spring centered. When the clock spring is centered, you can turn it 2.5 times in each direction. Put the steering wheel back on as close to a centered position as possible. If it still isn't perfect, you can make an adjustment at the rag joint. The rag joint is the joint joining the steering shaft and steering rack. Here's the two related videos that can help you out:
Steering Rack Replacement - we show how to make adjustments to the steering wheel near the end of the video: th-cam.com/video/wZoRP5ogrK0/w-d-xo.html
Here's the Steering Wheel Replacement Video: th-cam.com/video/-kByS-4puf0/w-d-xo.html
Hey Timmy. Thanks for your help. I have see this videos when they where New. Thanks for reminding me about them😃👍
No problem Biff.
Do you have P/N for the pins? Links don't go directly to parts anymore
I added part numbers and new links. Thanks for making me aware of this.
@@TimmyTheToolman just realized you had the part #s on your diagram. 🤦♂️
@@HKSmr2rbo No worries. It's easy to miss.
So I just got around to doing this retrofit. Just wanted to point out that on my '98, the diff lock lamp pin was the 2nd one on the right hand side of the connector